Hidalgo Faraon Oloroso Sherry (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely Oloroso Sherry from Spain that arrived at the LCBO last month in the December 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with good inventory still available across Ontario.

It is produced by Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, a renowned Spanish winery that has a long and storied history that began with it's founding in 1792. Bodega Hidalgo was established by Don José Pantaleón Hidalgo in 1792 after he bought a small storage warehouse from Don Roque Vejarano. During the 19th century, the company would grow to become one of the most important producers of Manzanilla, a Fino type of sherry, in the world. Bodegas Hidalgo is situated in a very special enclave of the Catalan town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The city enjoys a unique microclimate due to its location at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river, the marshes of Doñana, and facing the Atlantic Ocean. With low terrain, sea breezes are captured behind the town and bring unique characters to the wine.

The family-owned winery was passed down from father to son and is today one of the few remaining wine companies in the region that is still family-managed. Today, it is managed by the 8th generation of the family, in the direct line of the founder. Over the years, the Hidalgo family built a strong reputation for production high-quality sherries. They are known for their commitment to traditional winemaking techniques that define the production of sherry. They also own their own vineyards, most notably the Balbiana and Miraflores estate vineyards that are considered the best in the region, and have complete control of the winemaking process from vineyard to bottle.

From a rather large portfolio of Sherry's, Hidalgo's Faraon is from their Premium range. The Faraon is a dry Oloroso that is made using the traditional oxidative ageing system, from high-quality Palomino Fino grapes grown at their Balbiana and Miraflores estates, which are considered the best in the Jerez region. The grapes were wild fermented using the natural yeasts of the vineyard. After fermentation, the wine underwent oxidative ageing for between 6 and 12 years using the traditional Jerez system of soleras and criaderas. The solera system of sherry maturation is a form of fractional blending, where the wine is matured in a collection of series of casks (referred to as criaderas), and each criadera contains a wine of different average age. Let's see how this Oloroso Sherry is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDALGO FARAON OLOROSO SHERRY - DO Jerez-Xeres-Sherry, Spain (#471078) (XD) (500 mL) - $23.95
Clean, open, and fragrant, the medium-high intensity aromas offer attractive nutty and caramel notes layered over orange, apricot, brown sugar, and honey. The medium+ bodied palate is very dry with oxidative and nutty flavours, plus touches of lemon peel, salty, leesy, and caramel adding complexity. Acids are fresh and well-balanced, while oxidative, leesy, nutty, and salty notes linger on the exceptionally long, dry, and slightly bitter finish. Best served with a light chill. An acquired taste and a highly recommended buy into the world of Oloroso Sherry! Score: 91+ pts

A couple of lovely Sherries by Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana can be found at the LCBO, while the whole range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.