Kew Blanc de Blanc 2019 and Blanc de Noir 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's sparkling wine reviews are a pair of lovely bubblies that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature on "Local Wines You'll Love" from Ontario in last month's September 12th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Kew Vineyards, a hidden gem in Niagara's wine country history situated in the community of Beamsville, Ontario. The boutique winery resides at the historic Kew homestead, which was built by William Kew over 160 years ago and was used by the family to successfully produce carriages. Descendants of the Kew family lived on the property until the late 1960s, when the estate entered a new chapter in its history when it was acquired by Dieter Gutler and his wife, Ingrid.

The latest chapter of Kew Vineyards began in 2023, when the estate and its 80+ acres of land were acquired by Arterra Wines Canada. Kew's vineyards are located on the Beamsville Bench, within Ontario's Niagara Escarpment regional appellation, on gently sloping land with well-drained soils and a favourable climate for growing grapes. The philosophy at Kew is based on small-batch winemaking and the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion – a passion for the art of winemaking, a passion for the land, and a passion for the way in which wine celebrates daily life.

Today, Kew Vineyards is as much about gracious country hospitality as it is about beautiful wine. I hope to visit the winery one day, as Kew has taken a different approach to the winery experience – one that encourages visitors to get off the beaten path, slow down, and take the time to enjoy the surroundings. Kew Vineyards is meant to be an awakening of the senses and the soul, seamlessly blending Old World elegance with New World charm, while encouraging visitors to relax and soak in the experience. Guests are invited to walk through the vineyards while enjoying and exploring Kew's wines.

Blanc de Blancs sparkling wines are traditionally associated with some of the most prestigious Champagnes and sparkling wines, particularly those made exclusively from Chardonnay. This Blanc de Blanc is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was hand-harvested from a block just east of the house on the Estate Vineyard. After harvesting just over 8 tons of Chardonnay from this block, the fruit was gently whole-bunch pressed, and with careful monitoring, only the highest-quality juice was used to craft this wine. After undergoing primary fermentation, the wine was allowed to age 'en tirage' for the next 6 years before beginning disgorgement. This long élevage is only possible with high-quality wine possessing plenty of bright acidity, which helps promote greater complexity and autolytic character in the wine.

This Blanc de Noir is crafted solely with Pinot Noir and is a wonderful example that showcases Niagara's exceptional cool climate, which is perfectly suited for this red grape variety. As great care is required when producing a white wine from red grapes, the juice was derived from gentle whole-berry pressing and then fermented in stainless steel. It underwent secondary fermentation in bottle on its lees for over 4 years, harmonizing all of the elements together into a delicate, brut-style sparkling wine.

While neither the 2019 nor 2021 vintages in Niagara were particularly great, the 2019 vintage did provide plenty of freshness, while the 2021 vintage tested the skill of winemakers in the field and the picking decisions they made during a wet fall. Let's see how these 2019 and 2021 vintage traditional method sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANC 2019 - Traditional Method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (XD) - $32.95
100% Chardonnay aged on lees for 6 years. The medium-high intensity nose offers elegantly complex brioche, toasty, lemon citrus, golden apple, and pear aromas with hints of autolytics and leesy notes. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has lovely lemon citrus, golden apple, and pear flavours nuanced with spice, brioche, toasty, autolytic, and leesy mineral. Complex, elegant, and layered throughout, it is supported by crisp acidity and finely beaded bubbles that offer a creamy mouthfeel. Citrus and apple notes taper to brioche, toasty, and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIR 2021 - Traditional Method, VQA West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (XD) - $32.95
100% Pinot Noir aged on lees for over 4 years. Gentle toasty, brioche, autolytic, and pastry aromas mingle with citrus and tangy red berry notes rise out of the glass. It's medium+ bodied and dry with crisp effervescence and acidity. It has delicious toasty, brioche, tangy citrus, leesy mineral, and pastry flavours, plus hints of spice, red berry and autolytic notes adding interest. It's nicely textured with good structure on the mid-palate, while toasty, brioche, and citrus notes taper to leesy minerals on the long, savoury, and juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few other wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara, as well as through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Kew Tradition Sparkling 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

To start off my weekend, tonight's wine review is this beautiful, Pinot-based vintage sparkling wine from Niagara that was crafted in the traditional method. It arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 25th.

It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery situated in the heart of Niagara on a 160-year-old estate, in Beamsville, Ontario. The Kew homestead was built by William Kew and used by the family to successfully produce carriages. Descendants of the Kew family lived on the property until the late-1960s until it was purchased by Dieter Gutler and his wife Ingrid and began a new chapter.

In 1975, Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. While Mr. Weis was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it, he would go on to become a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region as most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

After the passing of Ingrid in 2021, the historical property Kew Vineyards and its 80+ acres of vineyards were acquired by Arterra Wines Canada in 2023. Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures. The philosophy at Kew is based on small-batch winemaking and that wine is the ultimate expression of passion. At Kew, there is passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life.

The winemaker at Kew Vineyards is Phillip Brown, who grew up in the agricultural community of Campbellville, Ontario, within the Niagara Escarpment. Phillip's father's passion for wine and extensive cellar nurtured his curiosity and desire to understand more about the world of wine. Phillip joined Niagara College’s Winery and Viticulture Technician program and gained experience at wineries in Ontario before moving to New Zealand in 2015 to work at a large-scale winery. Upon his return to Arterra, Phillip helped revive the Le Clos Jordanne project in 2017 and has been part of the Arterra winemaking team ever since. In early 2024, Phillip officially became the winemaker at Kew Vineyards.

As one of Niagara's sparkling wine specialists, Kew Vineyards produces seven unique, traditional method sparkling wines. Some of these bubblies are made using one varietal, while others are blends. Named "Tradition", this particular vintage sparkling wine is crafted as a blended wine, which is a true balancing act as winemakers must not only incorporate all the positive traits of each varietal, but also minimize the impact of their negative characteristics from one vintage to the next. This balancing act has been employed by Champagne producers for centuries as they balance the roles of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier.

This sparkling wine is crafted using a fairly traditional blend of 49% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, and 22% Pinot Meunier, while also incorporating a unique twist with 6% Pinot Blanc. All the grapes were grown at the Estate Vineyard in the Beamsville Bench appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The blend of the three traditional varietals results in a wine with gorgeous structure and depth, along with elegance and complexity that is unparalleled by any single varietal sparkling wine. In the traditional method, it underwent primary fermentation in stainless steel, while secondary fermentation took place in bottle. The wine was aged on its lees for 4 years and was released to the market in February 2026.

In 2021, the growing season began with above-average temperatures during winter, followed by a warmer spring. In May, conditions were dry with optimal temperatures, just in time for bud break. During the summer months, there were very high temperatures with minimal rain, which forced producers to manage drought. Conditions were looking exceptional heading into and throughout August. However, rain during harvest in September was problematic as the increased levels of moisture brought along with it elevated levels of rot, disease, and swelling of the grapes. While this is not a good vintage for late-ripening varieties, it is an incredible vintage for sparkling wines and early-ripening varieties. Let's see how this 2021 traditional method sparkling from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KEW TRADITION SPARKLING 2021 - Traditional Method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#491092) (XD) - $32.95
This lovely sparkling wine is a blend of 49% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, and 6% Pinot Blanc. Elegant, medium-high intensity nose features toasty, brioche, lemon citrus, apple, and pastry aromas nuanced with autolytic characters. The mid-weighted palate is dry with a lovely, finely elegant bead of persistent bubbles, along with delicious flavours of apple, lemon citrus, toasty, brioche, and autolytic notes. Acids are crisp and fresh. Brioche and leesy mineral notes come to the fore on the long, crisp, and gently chalky textured finish. Will be an elegant accompaniment to Mother's Day brunch and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Several lovely wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, as well as your local Wine Rack, while the full range can be ordered directly from winery in Niagara and through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Inniskillin 50th Anniversary Single Vineyard Wines (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a trio of exceptional wines that were launched this past summer by Inniskillin Wines to celebrate their 50th anniversary. As they celebrated their first 50 years of excellence with great pride, they are also looking forward to the next 50 years, which promises to be even more exciting. This excitement is fuelled by Canadian innovation and the launch of a series of new, premium wines to elevate your table.

The first 50 years at Inniskillin began when it was granted the first winery licence since prohibition in 1975 to become Canada's first estate winery. It was established by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, two friends and business partners who became instant pioneers in Canadian winemaking after taking big risks and earning many firsts in the Canadian wine history. Karl was the Head Winemaker and helped develop Inniskillin's reputation for over 30 years before eventually stepping away from the project in 2006.

In 2007, Bruce Nicholson assumed the role of senior winemaker at Inniskillin in Niagara. Bruce had previously spent approximately 20 years working in the Okanagan Valley before returning to Niagara to provide leadership and ensuring that Inniskillin continued to excel.

In 2013, Nicholas Gizuk joined Inniskillin and rose up through the ranks within the company to become Head Winemaker at Inniskillin's Niagara Estate in 2001. Nicholas is part of a new generation of winemakers that stand on the shoulders of Donald and Karl. This new generation of winemakers are using the success of the last 50 years as the foundation for what’s next and believe that the next chapter will be even more exciting.

Nicholas Gizuk says that "With a renewed focus on single vineyard expressions, we're showcasing the incredible diversity of Canadian terroir through wines that are unmistakably Inniskillin, Our intimate history and experience with this land and these grapes puts us in a position to develop one-of-a-kind wines that simply can't be re-created anywhere else."

Today, as Canada's oldest winery, Inniskillin Wines is synonymous with Canadiana and part of a family of wineries owned by Arterra Wines Canada. Inniskillin is looking to the future and is ready to redefine what premium Canadian wine can be once again with innovative techniques and over 50 years of experience that focus on every aspect of from terroir to winemaking, to deliver high-quality wines that can only be made in Canada.

In addition to this Single Vineyard Riesling and a pair of Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc wines, the other two wines in the series are the 2022 Inniskillin Illuvia Cabernet Franc, which I enjoyed a couple of months ago, and the 2024 Inniskillin Zabek Single Vineyard Riesling Icewine. All five wines in the series are available at Inniskillin and online at Great Estates Niagara, while the Icewine is also available in very limited quantities at the LCBO. Inniskillin's 50th Anniversary Series wines are ideal companions to elevate your next hosting engagement or gifting needs.

Tasting Notes:

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD MONTAGUE RIESLING 2024 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $29.22
Stelvin screw cap enclosure. The medium-high intensity nose has lovely, focused aromas of orange zest, white peach, honeyed melon, and lemon/lime citrus, plus whiffs of petrol and limestone minerality adding savoury complexity. It's medium+ bodied with impressive concentration and structure on the dry palate with delicious beeswax, honey, white peach, orange, and melon replays, plus white grapefruit, spice and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, succulent, and structured acidity, along with a finely textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced throughout, and tapering to leesy minerals and limestone on the savoury finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Light, textured fish, poached and fried white meats, shellfish, sushi, mild Asian cuisine, and citrus-based sauces.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD HERON POND CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose is clean and fresh, with herbaceous aromas mingling with ripe red & black fruits, currant, black cherry, and tobacco, plus touches of cedary oak spice and reductive notes. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry, elegant, and complex palate with ripe red fruits, red currant, black cherry, red licorice, and red plum nuanced with dried herbs, gentle oak spice, tobacco flavours. It is well-balanced throughout with refreshing acidity, and smooth, elegant, and fine-grained tannins. Tobacco, spice, and savoury earth notes linger on long, well-structured, and balanced finish. Score: 91+ pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, tart red fruit sauces and firm cheeses.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD LAMENT FARMS CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose has savoury dark fruited aromas rising out of the glass, with layers of black currant, dark cherry, cedar, savoury oak spice, and earthy mineral, plus flecks of white pepper and Damson plum adding further interest and complexity. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with more dark fruited replays of currant, cassis, black cherry, oak spice, pipe tobacco, savoury earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the firm, somewhat youthful tannins are well-structured. Touch grippy and slightly tangy with dark berry, savoury earth, and dried herbal notes on the long-lasting finish. Enjoyable now, but should improve with time in the cellar and drink well over the next 6-8 years. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, bitter chocolate, tart red fruit sauces, and firm cheeses.

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Malivoire Vivant Rosé 2024 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Since rosé season is upon us, and it's the long weekend, tonight's rosé wine review is a lovely, certified sustainable rosé crafted locally in Niagara with 100% Pinot Noir. It arrived at the LCBO in last weekend's May 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Malivoire Wine Company, a pioneering wine producer that was established in 1996 by Martin Malivoire and his wife, Moira Saganski. Driven by a passion for viticulture and crafting distinctive wines, Martin transitioned from a successful career as Director of motion picture special effects and purchased a vineyard in 1995 in the Beamsville Bench area of the Niagara wine region and named it the Moira Vineyard. A couple of years later, the Malivoire acquired land at 4260 King Street East (Beamsville), which would go on to become their Estate Vineyard and the site of the winery. This site is located on a glacial moraine, 30 metres above the lakeshore plain and provides superior airflow and water drainage, which contribute to the quality of the grapes grown at the estate.

What started as a personal project, Malivoire Wine Company is now a showcase for innovation, creativity, and sustainability for the Ontario wine industry. The team at Malivoire is led by Martin Malivoire (Proprietor), Shiraz Mottiar (Team Principal and General Manager), and Elisa Mazzi (Winemaker). Shiraz joined Malivoire in 2000 after graduating from the first class at Brock University's Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI) and was promoted to Winemaker in 2005. Garnering numerous accolades and respect over the years, Shiraz continues to guide the winery and industry towards a more sustainable future. Elisa was hired and mentored by Shiraz, and in 2023 Elisa took over as Winemaker. The team at Malivoire isn't just a collection of employees - they're passionate professionals who have found their work-home with us. Malivoire firmly believes in providing opportunities for the team to evolve while staying true to its core values and objectives.

Since its founding, Malivoire has long been at the forefront of the Ontario wine industry, blazing a trail as a pioneer and leader in sustainable viticulture, defined by a steadfast commitment to innovation and stewardship of the land. Malivoire was one of the first to implement gravity flow methods and among the first to achieve certification under Ontario's Sustainable Winemaking Program. At Malivoire, sustainability is based on their "Three P" principles - Planet, People, Prosperity - and all three must be equally in balance to ensure success. Sustainability initiatives include Environmental Stewardship, Community Engagement, Education and Empowerment, Transparency and Accountability, and the Workplace.

Winemaking at Malivoire is a blend of innovative thinking with respect for tradition. They have a long-term view of the vineyard farms that recognizes the winery and vineyard as a wholistic system, and take responsibility for the health of the entire ecosystem, including the health and well-being of their staff working in the vineyard, winery, and their neighbours and community at large. Some of Malivoire's practices include Reduction & Elimination of Synthetic Inputs, Water Conservation, Hand Harvesting and Sorting, Energy Conservation, and Eco-Conscious Packaging.

The 2024 vintage of this wine comes to us in a somewhat refreshed, yet familiar package. The clear label appears dark salmon coloured in most lighting situations, and allows the white letters and beach chair to stand out. I like the new look! Like previous vintages, it is composed of 100% Pinot Noir. The grapes were grown on the estate within the Beamsville Bench appellation. The Pinot Noir clusters were hand-picked at cool, day-break temperatures on September 21st, and pressed immediately for optimum freshness. The resulting juice was chilled in a horizontal "dairy tank" prior to undergoing a cool fermentation in stainless steel, and finally bottled in January 2025.

The excellent growing season in 2024 had near-perfect growing conditions throughout, from early bud break to a warm and late fall that allowed for long hang time. It all began with a mild winter and no spring frost events. A warmer-than-usual spring was followed up by above-average temperatures in summer, with warm days and warmer-than-usual nights, which results in a reduced diurnal temperature range and produced grapes with intense flavours and colour development. Early fall had some moisture and disease pressure, leading to mild concerns about early-ripening, thin-skinned grapes such as Pinot Noir. During the harvest season, September had warm temperatures, while some humidity was linked to extreme weather events. From a very good-to-excellent vintage, let's see how this 2024 Pinot Noir Rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MALIVOIRE VIVANT ROSÉ 2024 - Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#498535) (XD) - $21.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap. 100% Pinot Noir with a pretty shade of pale salmon-copper. Medium+ to medium-high intensity aromatics of red berry, strawberry-rhubarb, cherry, melon, grapefruit, blood orange, zesty citrus, and raspberry aromas. It's medium+ bodied with very good weight and concentration on the dry palate with lovely red berry, strawberry-rhubarb, raspberry, melon, and citrus replays on the flavour profile. It's supported by clean, fresh, and lively acidity. Nicely textured and slightly tangy on the mid-palate. Touch spicy on the long, crisp, and savoury finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Malivoire Wine Company can be found at the LCBO, ordered direct from the winery in Niagara, or through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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