Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2022 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinotage from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 20 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kanonkop Wine Estate, a 4th generation family-owned estate situated in the Stellenbosch wine region of the Western Cape, South Africa. While the farm has existed since the early part of the 20th century, the first wines bearing the Kanonkop label were produced only in 1973.

The name Kanonkop is derived from a cannon (kanon) that was located on a hillock (kop) on the Simonsberg mountain above the wine estate that was fired to announce the arrival of sailing ships entering Table Bay during the 17th and 18th centuries. The loud roar of the cannon signalled to local farmers that they needed to load up their wagons with fresh fruit and vegetables and make the 50-kilometre journey to the harbour to barter their produce.

When Kanonkop created their first wines in 1973, they entered their name into contention for a place in the annals of South African wine greatness. Kanonkop owes everything it has achieved and all the recognition it has attained to Paul Sauer, the second generation of the family and a man who passed away only three years after the first wines were crafted.

Paul Sauer was a politician in the South African parliament for forty-one consecutive years and spent some of those years as minister of Land and Irrigation, and Public Works and Forestry. Paul grew up with his parents, including his father, JW Sauer, who was an eminent politician and government minister, at the Uitkyk farm located just up the road from Kanonkop. At Uitkyk, Paul formed the foundations of his future great personality, while also developing a love for the land on the slopes of Simonsberg. His appreciation of wine and its culture was profoundly influenced by his mother, Mary, who was the daughter of Hendrik Cloete, the owner of Groot Constantia, South Africa's oldest wine farm.

Today, Kanonkop is run by brothers Johann and Paul Krige, the grandsons of Paul Sauer. As custodians of their grandfather's legacy, the Krige brothers oversee the estate's daily operations. The philosophy at Kanonkop lies in viticulture and terroir - the influences of the soil, climate, and topography and how it shapes the vine, vineyard, and region, and in turn, how it determines the character of the wine. In addition, Kanonkop places an important value on the influence of human interaction on the vines - how the vines are pruned, harvested and worked over generations.

Kanonkop also places an emphasis on vintage. The classic approach to winemaking at Kanonkop is underscored by the vintage. On this unique farm in Stellenbosch, no year in the vineyards are the same. Therefore, the approach in the vineyard is focused and site-specific, concepts which have been at the heart of the estate since its inception, and ensures that the character of each year is captured in the wines. Kanonkop is best-known for their red wines, namely Pinotage and Bordeaux varietal reds, which are renowned for their consistency and sense of place.

This red wine is from Kanonkop's 'Kadette' range, which was born in the mid-1980s when the ever-growing demand for its estate wines outstripped supply. This led to new plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage. However, the ethos at Kanonkop under Beyers Truter at the time was that the vines needed to reach a certain level of maturity before the fruit was deemed good enough to portray the depth and complexity associated with Kanonkop Estate wines. It was Jannie Krige who came up with the idea of making a second label under the name Kadette. With the military association of 'kanon' in the estate's name, it was only logical to name the second label of wines Kadette - a junior brand to the more senior main brand. Today, the grapes for the Kadette range no longer come from Kanonkop vineyards because the demand is too great, and the volume required is simply too large. However, every grape bunch destined for the Kadette range is subjected to the meticulous processes in the winery as the Estate range.

The Kadette Pinotage was first released in 2013. It is crafted with 100% Pinotage grown in Stellenbosch, from supplementally irrigated vines that are 8 to 23 years of age and planted on decomposed granite and Hutton soils. The grapes were fermented in open-top concrete fermenters at 28°C, with the floating skins punched down mechanically every 2 hours during fermentation. The juice was drawn off the skins after 3 days, and after malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in second- and third-fill 225 L French Nevers oak barrels.

In Stellenbosch, the growing season in 2022 was about 2 weeks later than normal, which was also the latest in the past 25 years. It started with a cold winter and enough rain, which resulted in budbreak that was 2 weeks late. Spring and the early part of summer were quite cool, with December having lower maximum and minimum temperatures, while January was more moderate with a couple of hot days. Slow ripening conditions resulted in concentrated fruit development and weight. From a classic Stellenbosch vintage that produced exceptional wines, let's see how this 2022 Pinotage from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KANONKOP KADETTE PINOTAGE 2022 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#30191) (XD) - $21.95
This 100% Pinotage has a medium-high intensity nose that is fresh and lifted with elegant dark berry, blackberry, bramble, savoury spice, and earthy mineral aromas with touches of dried herbs. The medium+ palate is chewy and quite fleshy with lovely ripe black cherry, black plum, bramble, and allspice flavours accented with savoury wood. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside powdery, lightly grippy textured tannins. The spicy mid-palate tapers to savoury, earthy mineral notes on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A couple of other fine wines by Kanonkop are available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Villacreces Pruno 2022 and 2011 (Ribera del Duero) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely Tempranillo-based wines from the DO of Ribera del Duero in Spain. The 2022 vintage of this organic red wine arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the mini-feature on wines from Ribera del Duero.

The 2011 Pruno is a bottle I purchased over a decade ago from the September 28, 2013 LCBO VINTAGES Release. While my notes indicated that I probably should've opened this a few years ago, I figured this would be as good a time as any to open it back-to-back with the current vintage.

Both of these wines are produced by Finca Villacreces, a renowned estate winery situated in Spain's Ribera del Duero wine region with a history dating back to at least 1350, when Pedro de Villacreces, a Franciscan friar, was the first documented resident on the estate. Along with a group of ministers, Pedro cultivated the land, including a small vineyard that was used to make wine for their own use and nearby monasteries.

In 1836, the estate came into private hands, and soon thereafter it held rights over the waters of the Duero river. In the early 20th century, the estate was sold to the Cuadrado family from Valladolid. The Cuadrado family used the estate for various agricultural and recreational purposes, including housing illustrious guests. One of these guests was Peter Sisseck, who used the winery and part of the vineyard to craft the notable Flor de Pingus.

In 2004, the Cuadrado family sold the estate to the father and son team of Gonzalo and Lalo Antón, who already owned wineries in Rioja and Toro. After three years of remodelling and painstaking work to restore the vineyard, Finca Villacreces was once again inaugurated. In 2017, the acquisition of Pinos Claros, within the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero, extended the estate's reach to 275 hectares of vineyards, 90% of which are organically farmed.

Today, Finca Villacreces is situated in the heart of Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, amidst a 200-year-old pine forest and bathed to the north by the Duero River. This unique place brings landscape, tradition, and charm together, with a vineyard that is divided into 15 plots that are interspersed with a centenary pine forest. The vineyard at Finca Villacreces is unique because it is conditioned by the diversity of poor soil, which ranges from extremely sandy areas near the pines to the very stony terrain where pebbles from the alluvial deposition of the Duero river predominate.

Finca Villacreces is a 110-hectare estate, with 64 hectares of vineyards. Situated at 700 metres above sea level, the vineyard is subject to an extreme climate with large temperature fluctuations, long winters, and dry summers with low rainfall. However, the surrounding forest protects Finca Villacreces from the most aggressive climatic conditions. The focus at Finca Villacreces is for quality-focused and integrated viticulture, where the vine's natural condition is controlled and preserved in order to obtain wines with the unique Villacreces typicity and personality. Sustainability is also a focus at Finca Villacreces, with some of these initiatives being vineyard adaptation, support for biodiversity, sustainable packaging, and reduction of carbon footprint.

The 2022 vintage of this red wine is crafted with 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot, from grapes grown among the 64 hectares of vineyards located on the estates of Finca Villacreces and Pinos Claros. The average age of the vines is 25 years, and they are trained using a trellis system with light pines. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks with double pissage (bleed off the juice to increase concentration of colour, tannins, and flavour), followed by malolactic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tank, oak fermentation vat, and oak barrels. The wine was aged for 10 months in 75% French and 25% American second- and third-use oak.

The growing season in Ribera del Duero in 2022 was marked by the absence of rain and remarkably hot temperatures, which resulted in irregular ripening levels. While the grapes were healthy, they did exhibit below average weight with a higher ratio of skin to pulp. This also allowed producers to pick at their chosen time, which will play a key role in defining the individual wine styles. It was a long harvest with the last Tempranillo picked in mid-November. From a very good vintage with wines displaying very good structure and complexity, let's see how this 2022 Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VILLACRECES PRUNO 2022 - Vegan, DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe, dark berried, black cherry, currant, and sweet vanillan oak aromas surrounding a core of plum and accented with floral violet. The dry, medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe dark berry, black cherry, and currant flavours in a spicy profile. More savoury on the mid-palate with cedary oak, earth, and mineral notes. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with chalky, drying, and almost astringent tannins. Savoury earth and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, dry finish. Recommended buy that is best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Score: 89 pts

FINCA VILLACRECES PRUNO 2011 - DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon pours a very dark purple colour. It has savoury spice, leather, and mature, stewed black fruit aromas rising out of the glass with medium+ to medium-high intensity. Savoury wet earth and sandalwood with touches of dried herb and black currant add nuance, interest, and complexity. The medium-bodied palate is spicy with savoury black fruit, currant, leather, sandalwood, and dried herb flavours. Acids are still quite refresh, while the textured tannins are slightly astringent and drying. Alcohol peeks through slightly on the mid-palate, while savoury earth and woody notes linger on the long and slightly tangy finish. Past prime with little room for further improvement. Serve at cool, red wine temperature and enjoy now! Really smooth and pleasantly mature on the 2nd day. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Finca Villacreces can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2022 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a beautiful, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Langhe DOC in Piedmont that arrived at LCBO outlets across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 6th - with bottles still available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Vietti, a prestigious and historic estate winery situated in the village of Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo wine region of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It was established in the 1800s by Carlo Vietti, then taken over in 1917 by his son, Mario, who transformed the family farm into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high-quality wines.

In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, took Vietti to new heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture. The ambition, foresight, and pioneering spirit of Alfredo helped create in 1961 one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione, followed a few years later by their first Roero Arneis. Matched with artist labels in 1974, the Vietti brand became an icon and standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of the time.

In the 1980s, the winery was taken over by Mario Cordero, the son-in-law of Luciana and Alfredo. And in the 1990s, Mario was joined by the son of Luciana and Alfredo, Luca Currado Vietti, and Luca's wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

Today, Vietti is owned by the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2016 and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Vietti family is no longer involved in this project as both Luca and Elena left in 2023, the Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins. Their values are based on, among other things, territory, craftsmanship, quality research, human capital, and sustainability. The place where the vision of wine and the vineyard is an expression of the intelligence of the hands, and that preserving the craftsmanship is essential to wine and its production. The Vietti manifesto is to always improve, respect nature's own pace, take care of tradition and of those that help safeguard it, and cultivate sustainability. The aim is to obtain identity-based wines capable of withstanding the test of time.

Like the 2020 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo I enjoyed in 2024, this red wine is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites, mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. After harvesting, the grapes were brought to the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation for about 3–4 weeks at a controlled temperature between 28°C–32°C, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel was vinified and aged separately until the lots that will be used for Langhe Nebbiolo and those that will continue to age for Barolo, are selected. The parcels for Langhe Nebbiolo were aged for about 18–20 months in barriques and large barrels, then blended in steel prior to bottling. This wine is considered to be a "second Barolo", and the name "Perbacco" comes from the Italian exclamation "Per Bacco!", which translates roughly to "By Bacchus", the Roman god of wine. Perbacco symbolizes wine, pleasure, and celebration.

The 2022 growing season is noted for being the driest and among the hottest in Piedmont's history. The region was already lacking water and barely received any precipitation between December 2021 and the beginning of May 2022. The arid conditions persisted through summer, which resulted in small vines producing small clusters. Vital in this vintage were soil and canopy management in order to preserve any moisture and protect the grapes from sunburn. From a vintage with slightly reduced yields and, given the climatic conditions, surprising balance and acidity, let's see how this 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $42.95
100% Nebbiolo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal pretty and gently perfumed aromas of rose floral, red cherry, and sweet spices with hints of orange peel and leafy herb. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite firmly structured with lovely red cherry, rose floral, sweet spice, cinnamon, and savoury earth flavours with leafy herb accents. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the structured tannins have some youthful grip. Subtle spice notes on the mid-palate, while savoury earth notes take over on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now with protein, but I would tuck this away for 3-4 years and enjoy to the early-mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Estate Papaioannou Saint George Agiorgitiko 2019 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic and vegan-friendly Agiorgitiko from Nemea in Greece. It arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estate Papaioannou, a small, family-owned Greek winery situated in Ancient Nemea, within the Peloponnese wine region of southern Greece. While the Papaioannou family has deep viticultural roots in Nemea going back to the 19th century, the modern estate winery was established in the 1950s by Thanasis Papaioannou.

Mr. Papaioannou was one of the first wine producers who understood and promoted the idea that wine must maintain its unique characteristics - the grape variety, the vineyard's location, as well as the work in the vineyard, while ensuring biological balance. The family has about 60 hectares of private vineyards located in various vineyard plots within Nemea, and are planted to both Greek and international varieties. All the family's vineyards are 100% organically cultivated, with the aim of achieving ultimate harmony with the ecosystem. Thanasis Papaioannou passed away in 2019 at the age of 92.

George Papaioannou, son of Thanasis, carries on his father's tradition. As a chemist-oenologist, George is creatively active in his own vineyards, as well as in the modern winery of Ancient Nemea. The goal is for the continuous improvement of the wines produced, maintain the highest standards of hygiene and organic characteristics, as well as experiment with new types of wines. With vineyards situated in different areas of Nemea, which are characterized by differences in the ecosystem and age of the vines, the result is wines of multi-dynamism. The quality of the wine is further enhanced by the correct selection of a satisfactory number of varieties, along with the profound knowledge of its pioneers about everything related to the vineyard and its cultivation. With a commitment to sustainable practices, Estate Papaioannou has been farming organically since 2004. Papaioannou Winery is certified by the state-controlled DIO, and more recently achieved USDA NOP organic certification.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Agiorgitiko, a native Greek grape varietal which also often goes by the name St. George. The grapes for this wine were grown in their 60 hectare estate vineyard in Nemea, at 350 metres above sea level. The vines are 35-years-old and planted on clay soil with gravels, and trained using the Royat double cordon system. It was vinified by undergoing a cool temperature fermentation using indigenous yeasts, with 2 weeks of maceration time. The wine was matured for 12 months in 300 L American and French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% 1-year-old, followed by 6 months of bottle ageing.

The 2019 vintage in Greece is considered to be one of the best in the last 20+ years with consistent, evenly distributed rainfall, and without extreme periods of heat, which resulted in a high-acid vintage. In Nemea, low temperatures during winter and spring, combined with continuous rainfall, resulted in late maturation during all stages of ripening. The summer months and September experienced heat and drought conditions, which ensured good hygiene for most grape varieties. With normal yields and excellent grape health, the resulting wines are characterized by high acidity, which gives aromatic wines good varietal expression. From a very good vintage with high expectations, let's see how this 2019 Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTATE PAPAIOANNOU SAINT GEORGE AGIORGITIKO 2019 - Vegan, PDO Nemea, Greece (#27217) (XD) - $29.95
This organic Agiorgitiko is fragrant and open, with a medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely, complex mix of dark fruited spices revealing layers of black cherry, blackberry, sandalwood, and savoury earth aromas nuanced with touches of rose floral, dried cherry, and barnyard. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has oak spice, dark berry, black cherry, black plum, peppery spice, and smoky mineral flavours. It is well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, as well as refined, gritty tannins. Touches of intriguing menthol notes on the back palate, while waves of black cherry, pepper, and oak spice notes lead to smoky minerals with excellent length on the crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Papaioannou is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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La Chevalière Rasteau 2023 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Grenache-based blend from the Côtes du Rhône Cru of Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

La Chevalière is a label produced by Les Grandes Serres, a well-regarded winery located in the Southern Rhône Valley. Founded in 1977, Les Grandes Serres is known for its expertise with the classic Rhône varietals of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, and producing high-quality wines from the Southern Rhône's most prestigious appellations. The name "Grandes Serres" translates to "large greenhouses", which once existed on the property.

Today, Les Grandes Serres is dedicated to expressing the diversity and unique terroirs of the Southern Rhône Valley. They emphasize sustainable viticulture and have deep respect for the environment. Mainly a négociant firm, Les Grandes Serres sources most of their grapes from contract growers.

The grapes for this red wine come from the village of Rasteau, an appellation by the same name which also became a Cru in 2020. Rasteau is situated in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the north of Vaucluse, and features a diversity of terroirs and a Mediterranean climate. The soil in Rasteau includes red marl and sandstone, clay and limestone soils, and is covered with worn pebbles on the surface. The pebbles accumulate heat throughout the day, and at night they release all that heat, which in turn cools down the vines. Rasteau is an ideal environment for wines to fully express their structured, generous, and powerful nature.

This lovely cuvée is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan. When compared with the excellent 2022 La Chevalière Rasteau that I enjoyed in 2024, the 2023 has 10% more Syrah, while the amount of Mourvèdre and Carignan went down. To vinify this wine, the grapes were destemmed, gently crushed, and placed into temperature-controlled vats, followed by a three-week maceration with regular pumping-over and délestage (rack and return). After ageing, the different terroirs (and grapes) were blended together in order to achieve optimum balance, which highlights the characteristics of Rasteau.

In 2023, the growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a dry start and a relatively late bud burst. Welcoming late-spring rains arrived in May and June, and were followed by a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. This was a vintage that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils, and while the weather conditions did present some challenges, the resulting wines from Rasteau excelled and showed detailed terroir expression. Let's see how this 2023 Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHEVALIÈRE RASTEAU 2023 - AOP, Rhône, France (#18502) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan has a lovely, perfumed, medium-high intensity nose of dark red berry, garrigue, stones, peppery spice, blackberry, earthy mineral, with a touches of olive, leafy dried herbs, and meaty characters in a complex profile. The medium+ bodied palate is dry, ripe, and slightly warming with delicious black raspberry, peppery spice, garrigue, stones, and savoury, earthy mineral flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe and supple tannins are smooth and well-structured. Savoury and stony on the long, crisp finish. Best enjoyed at cooler temperatures and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by the producers of La Chevalière can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and organic Super Tuscan that is predominantly Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles surprisingly still available for purchase!

It is produced by Tenuta Sette Ponti, a highly-regarded, family-owned winery situated in Tuscany, between the cities of Florence and Arezzo, Italy. The history of the property begins in 1935, when Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta planted the first vineyards on the property to celebrate having taken over the Ethiopian Empire. It was called "Vigna dell'Impero", or Vineyard of the Empire, and is home to an ancient clone of Sangiovese that is the only one of its kind.

In the 1950s, architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri acquired the first 55 hectares of land directly from Princesses Margherita and Maria Cristina of Savoy-Aosta, daughters of Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta, and dedicated himself to the production of winegrowing and olive oil. The grapes were sold to producers until the 1990s, when Antonio Moretti Cuseri, son of Alberto, who had a passion for wine since he was a young boy, took over the family business in 1997.

Antonio worked alongside the best viticulturists and oenologists to evaluate the suitability of the land for the production of quality wines, although the area was already declared one of the most suitable areas for wine production in Tuscany in 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. By 1998, Antonio stopped selling his grapes to other producers and established Tenuta Sette Ponti, or Seven Bridges, in tribute to the seven bridges that extend over the Arno River on the road from Florence to Arezzo. That same year, he made his first wine - Crognolo.

In 2018, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family, Amedeo, son of Antonio, joined the family business to continue to represent the company's strong values and bring a fresh and new vision. The philosophy at Tenuta Sette Ponti is based on quality, research, long-lasting knowledge, age-old customs, respect for the land and its balance, while also keeping pace with modern agricultural and oenological practices. Tenuta Sette Ponti has an incredible love for vines and is known for making exceedingly high quality, organic wines in line with Tuscan traditions.

The Crognolo is named after a wild plant Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) that grows in abundance on the estate. This red wine was first made in 1998 and strongly represents the vision of its creator, with an eye to the valorization of the territory and to innovation achieved through traditions that evolve. The base of this wine is Sangiovese from clones from the oldest and historically significant Vigna dell'Impero vineyard. This historic varietal clone was grafted in vineyards with stony soils rich in marl. The majority of the Sangiovese used to craft Crognolo is made up of only the best Sangiovese grapes from these vines.

Similarly to the 2018 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is predominantly Sangiovese (95%) with a splash of Merlot completing the blend. The southern-facing vineyard is planted at 250 metres above sea level. The vines are 30+ years old and trained using the spurred cordon system. After undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12–14 months in French oak barriques. It was then matured for 6 months in bottle prior to release.

While the 2022 growing season in Tuscany began with a cool and unusually dry winter, which transitioned into a warm spring, the vintage was marked by the scorching hot summer and extreme drought. The conditions in summer were so dry that some producers chose to irrigate to help protect their younger vines. However, vineyards situated near forests or up hills were able to keep cool, with welcoming rain finally arriving at the end of July. Further rainfall at the end of August to the beginning of September proved to be the vintage's saving grace. Although the drought conditions unsurprisingly reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high quality. From a good vintage with slightly higher-than-usual alcohol levels, let's see how this 2022 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2022 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. A touch reductive off the top, followed by a medium-high intensity nose of ripe red cherry aromas mingling with clove, savoury oak, and earthy minerals, plus hints of sweet spices. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has lovely red & black cherry, clove, oak spice, sweet spice, and earthy mineral replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the medium-firm tannins are well-structured with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Touch spicy with the alcohol peeking through ever so slightly on the mid-palate, while the exceptionally long finish is dry, savoury, and minerally. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

Tenuta Sette Ponti's iconic Oreno is available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range of wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Boutari Naoussa Red 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Xinomavro (ksee-NOH-mah-vroh) from Naoussa in northern Greece. A perennial favourite, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by one of Greece's most historic and influential wineries - Boutari. It was established by Ioannis Boutaris with a winery bearing his name in 1879 in Naoussa, Macedonia in northern Greece. By 1906, Mr. Boutaris built the city's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

In the mid-1930s, Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, took over the reins of the family winery and began exporting their wines to export markets, while also opening a second winery in Naoussa. In 1968, Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris, the two sons of Stelios took over the winery and propelled it to new heights and shaped it into what it is today, including a shift to focus on viticulture. In 1978, Boutari inaugurated their new, state-of-the-art winery in Stenimachos, Naoussa, which remains the centre of their production, ageing, and bottling processes to this day. Boutari's success culminated with the Naoussa Boutari label making Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2013 list.

In 2022, Boutari Wineries turned a new chapter when it became a member of Sterner Stenhus Greece group. While Boutari is now under new ownership, the vision for the winery is to respect the historic name that is synonymous with Greek wine, while also promising to continue the long-standing tradition of Boutari wineries and develop them further.

The wineries of Boutari are located in Greece's most important wine-producing regions, which allows the producer to explore the potential and specificities of each region and to highlight both the region itself and its varieties. Arguably, Naoussa is the most important Greek wine region and Boutari's headquarters are in Naoussa, a region of Macedonia on the eastern edge of Vermio. Boutari's journey began in Naoussa, and with it, Greek wine was introduced to the world. As a key player in Greek winemaking and one of the country's most historic wineries, viticulture in the Naoussa of northern Greece is deeply rooted in their past. Boutari was instrumental in the preservation of the indigenous Xinomavro grape, as well as the promotion and recognition of the variety and the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zone of Naoussa. All of this was achieved by producing excellent and historically significant wines.

Boutari has also taken steps to introduce sustainability practices by optimizing the vineyard and wine processes in order to produce wines of endearing taste, identity, and character. In their vineyards, Boutari applies organic farming principles, while respecting their environmental footprint. Moreover, they treat the vine as part of the ecosystem and focus on strengthening its natural defences and resilience.

First bottled at the beginning of the 20th century, this red wine is the most emblematic wine of modern Greek wine history. This wine is also one of the first Greek red bottled PDO wines and constitutes a landmark for red wines in Greece. Like the previous vintage - the lovely 2021 Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro that I enjoyed last year - this red wine is also crafted with 100% Xinomavro, although it doesn't mention this anywhere on the front label and is stated in quite small letters on the back label. To vinify this wine, the grapes were cold-macerated for 24 hours, with a small percentage bled off for rosé production. It underwent a controlled alcoholic fermentation with selected yeast strains at 20°C–27°C, with gentle extraction with few pumpovers, and was followed by malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 12 months in 5th- and 6th-use French oak barrels, and filtered using sheet filtration prior to bottling.

The growing season in Naoussa in 2022 began intensely cold, with intervals of rain, which resulted in increased bud fertility and the ensuing increase in yields. March and April were colder and wetter than average, with a later bud break, while temperatures returned to typical by early May. The summer ripening season was mostly mild, except for a heatwave in the first half of August, while September began with notable rainfall, along with typically high temperatures during the day and low temperatures at night. From a vintage that produced very good to excellent results, let's see how this 2022 Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI NAOUSSA RED 2022 - PDO Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece (#23218) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Xinomavro has a medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy initially, offering an enticing mix of sun-dried tomato, rose petals, spice, ripe red cherry, and savoury earth aromas accented with leafy herbs. The medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe tannins and fresh acidity supporting the red cherry, rose floral, sun-dried tomato, and leafy herb flavours in a nicely balanced profile. More savoury with earth, cedary oak, and spice notes on the mid-palate, alongside a crisp mouthfeel and gently chalky textured tannins. Sun-dried tomato, cherry, and rose florals taper to earthy notes on the long, savoury, and mineral-tinged finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

For my final wine review of the year, tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cape Pastoral, a wine brand based in the Western Cape wine region of South Africa that is focused on crafting organic wines with minimal intervention.

The Western Cape is known for not only its rural beauty, including fauna and flora, but also its grape growers and winemakers, who are well-grounded as the primary preservers of the region's grape-growing soil. Cape Pastoral wines are the result of a harmonious relationship between the Western Cape's grape-growing soil, weather elements, and the natural response of the winemakers to transform the grapes into tasteful wines.

This ethos is reflected on the label of each Cape Pastoral wine. This wine has flowing shades of orange which represent the sun and its role as core source of earth’s energy, while the spots refer to the dispersal of seeds that happens naturally without human interference. The bee is an important pollinator of crops which are facing the threat of deforestation. Together, these visual elements tie into the pastoral style of creative works that idealize rural life and landscapes, while also alluding to the harmony that can exist when humans take a hands-off approach to nature.

Although I was not able to get the exact composition at the time of this post, this red wine is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes were grown and certified organically. After harvesting the grapes, they arrived at the cellar and were meticulously sorted by a sorting machine to ensure only the finest grapes were vinified. It was fermented using natural yeasts, and spent a considerable amount of time on its lees to create a creamy, textured mouthfeel. It also spent some time in oak to add spice characters and soften the tannins.

The growing season for the 2023 vintage in South Africa's winelands was generally dry and warm, with budbreak occurring slightly earlier than average. Conditions were optimal in spring and early summer, with abundant rains early in the season, just before veraison, which aided fruit quality. A cool and wet summer prolonged ripening, while unseasonal rains that arrived in March prolonged the harvest into April for many. This meant that picking decisions and careful vinification was required for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. From a vintage that was cool and long with reduced yields, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAPE PASTORAL ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#36978) (XD) - $13.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of dark fruit and cedary oak spice aromas layered over currant, cassis, earth, and black plum, with hints of chocolate. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has pleasant dark berry, currant, cassis, and oak spice flavours joined by green herbs, savoury earth, and cocoa notes. Clean and well-made with crisp acidity, while the refined and textured tannins are gently grippy. Crisp and juicy with savoury earth, oak spice, and mocha chocolate notes on the lengthy finish. Pleasantly surprised and a recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

There is only one other wine by Cape Pastoral and it can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Escarpment Noir Pinot Noir 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Pinot Noir from Martinborough in New Zealand. It made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Escarpment Winery, a wine producer that was founded in 1999 as a joint venture between Larry and Sue McKenna of Martinborough, and Robert and Mem Kirby of Australia. However, the driving force of Escarpment was Larry, who grew up near South Australia's McLaren Vale and had been a pioneer winemaker in Martinborough since 1986.

Escarpment is located on Te Muna Road, in Martinborough's famed alluvial gravel soils that were formed by the Huangarua River over 20,000 years ago. The winery is named after the long, steep slope that lies at the end of a plateau, which is their unique place within Martinborough. Their site also has ancient alluvial soils that run deep beneath the land, while big, open skies stretch across the Wairarapa. Escarpment Winery's purpose is to translate the natural balance that exists here into wines that reflect these special attributes, this special part of Aotearoa, New Zealand.

Today, Escarpment Winery is one of New Zealand's most respected cool-climate wine producers. In 2019, Escarpment was acquired by Torbreck Vintners of Barossa Valley, South Australia. In 2022, Larry retired and left his legacy in the capable hands of Viticulturist, Rowan Hoskins and Winemaker, Tim Bourne.

The vision at Escarpment is to continue to produce wines that capture a unique sense of place. Situated in their unique place on Te Muna Road, their home vineyard has 24 hectares of distinctive alluvial gravel and terraced land that stretches out along the banks of the Huangarua River. The alluvial loam soil in this vineyard has very deep alluvial gravels layered over loam, a composition which ensures exceptional drainage and is one of the key prerequisites for nurturing and producing premium quality, healthy grape vines. Escarpment sources fruit for their wines from one of their four vineyards, as well as from growers around the Martinborough township with whom they have long-term relationships with.

Escarpment Winery has several lines of wines in its portfolio and is particularly known for its single vineyard expressions of Pinot Noir. This particular Pinot Noir is from their "Varietal Pinot" line, which is their commitment to the future expansion of their key varieties. Furthermore, the Varietal Pinot line is about exploring boundaries, a key philosophy that is exhibited in their winemaking approach.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in the North Island district of Martinborough. Part of Escarpment Winery's ethos is to explore boundaries to create wines of interest and complexity. This wine brings together over three decades of winemaking experience to craft a Pinot Noir using traditional techniques from fruit grown on the Martinborough terrace. Upon arriving at the winery, the harvested grapes were destemmed into open-top vessels and fermented using indigenous yeast. The average time in vat was 23 days, after which the wine was pressed off and aged in predominately older French barriques for about 10 months, with 16% new French oak. Each parcel was vinified and matured separately, with the resulting wine a blend of 36 individual parcels, and was bottled without fining.

The 2023 vintage in Martinborough was a difficult one due to sustained wet weather and cyclone activity. The wet and cool conditions began in autumn 2022 and persisted right through to autumn 2023, which made all vineyard activities extremely difficult and expensive as more passes through the vineyard were required because growth continued throughout the season and disease pressure was immense. Crops were constantly thinned, and low temperatures and high soil moisture levels meant ripening was slow and protracted. Pinot Noir was in good condition because the varietal is later to budburst and ripen, and was thus less advanced when Cyclone Gabrielle hit. From a trying vintage, let's see how this 2023 Pinot Noir from Martinborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESCARPMENT NOIR PINOT NOIR 2023 - Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#41810) (XD) - $29.95
Enclosed by screw cap. The highly engaging nose has medium-high intensity aromas with an intriguing mix of rose floral, earthy beet root, black spices, dark cherry, cranberry, and savoury minerals, plus strawberry accents. On the dry, light-to-medium bodied palate it shows impressive structure and textured tannins. Lovely, complex, and ripe flavours of black cherry, cranberry, strawberry, beet root, spices, and savoury minerals. Touch creamy on the mid-palate, which gives way to a mildly grippy back palate. Acids are crisp and juicy. It's well-balanced throughout with dark red berry notes tapering to savoury spice, and earthy minerals on the crisp finish, with excellent length. Should improve further with a few years in the cellar and drink well for at least 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other fine wines by Escarpment can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge 2022 (Southwest France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend of Tannat and Merlot that is brand-new to the LCBO. It arrived both online and in-store as part of last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 22nd.

It is produced by Maison Fontan, an historic, family-owned wine estate located in the comune of Noulens, within the Gers department of southwestern France. The Fontan family's story begins when the first generation moved to Maubet Farm in Noulens in 1907.

The family farmed this land for 4 generations, eventually moving from polyculture farming to organized viticulture in the 1980s thanks to the passion and initiatives of Aline and Jean-Claude Fontan, the third generation of the family. Aline and Jean-Claude also played a pivotal role by helping instigate the development of Côtes de Gascogne wines.

In 2001, siblings Sylvain and Nadège Fontan, the son and daughter of Aline and Jean-Claude, took over the reins of the vineyard and continued to develop the estate. Sylvain is the winemaker and cellar master, and by enhancing the grapes he makes a range of Côtes de Gascogne wines and Armagnacs. Nadège handles marketing and sales, and ensures that their vineyard products are available at wine merchants and the best restaurants.

Formerly Domaine de Maubet, the estate was rebranded in 2021 as Maison Fontan. The house which their great-grandparents moved to is more than just a vineyard - it is a place where people live, come together and work, and where the natural world is listened to and respected. Nestled in the middle of vines, the traditional Gascon half-timbered building welcomes visitors with open arms and a warm embrace, and is a place where people feel good.

Today, Sylvain and Nadège continue down the pathway forged by their great-grandparents with immense pride and unfailing courage. The siblings also have passion and respect for their forebears and the natural environment that surrounds them. With the elegance of their vines heralding sophisticated wines and eau-de-vie, the entire team at Maison Fontan is also focused on conserving the ecosystem, taking great care, and innovating. Maison Fontan is the hallmark of a family identity with shared and continuously upheld values.

Maison Fontan has always practiced sustainable winegrowing, while common sense is de rigueur, and respect is inherent. The family also respects nature and the environment, and has the belief that if they nourish the soil to the right extent, and if they take care of it, it will give their vines the best grapes. The family also believes in being thorough and mindful during all the phases of production, from soil to glass, in order to make a safe, appealing, and carefully-controlled product of consistently high quality.

This red wine is from their "Les Tattoo" range of wines which are original, daring, and bold. The Tattoo wines combine local grape varietals with innovative winemaking methods to produce gourmet wines that may come as a surprise. This particular red wine is crafted using a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Merlot which were grown on clay-limestone and highly-compacted sandy/silty soil. After harvesting the grapes, they were destalked and placed into vats for 5 days of maceration. The grapes were fermented between 25°C–30°C, depending on the vintage, with one pumpover and two rack and returns. The juice is run off before malolactic fermentation, and is judged and tasted daily before finally undergoing filtration and kept in vat until bottling.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southwest of France featured black frosts, violent hailstorms, and severe summer drought. In spite of these challenges, the result was a significantly small harvest but with excellent quality. Let's see how this 2022 Tannat & Merlot from Côtes de Gascogne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MAISON FONTAN TATTOO T&M ROUGE 2022 - IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest, France (#43894) (D) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 50/50 blend of Tannat and Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is ripe and fruit forward with plummy, dark fruit, blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and currant aromas with hints of licorice. The medium-full bodied palate is dry-ish with plummy, black cherry, and cassis flavours with touches of spice and mineral adding a savoury component. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside supple, rounded, and mildly textured tannins. Comes off a little sweet, but finishes crisp and dry with black cherry, cassis, and a lingering minerality. The finish length is very good. Crafted in a crowd-pleasing style. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Fontan can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras at Grandes Serres. Rémy Ferbras is a wine brand anchored in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. It is owned by Maison Grandes Serres, which is in turn owned by Picard Vins & Spiritueux, and pays tribute to the winery's first cellar master - Rémy Ferbras.

As an emblematic character of the house, Rémy Ferbras was a fervent defender of the Rhône Valley terroir and its grape varieties. Rémy always aimed to express the full potential of the grapes and terroir from this renowned wine region, and contributed with his work and tenacity to expand the house and his notoriety. The Rémy Ferbras signature is synonymous with rigorous and precise selection, vinification, and ageing, values which remain with the brand. Furthermore, the wines of Rémy Ferbras are consistently rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

Like the 2022 Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted using the same 4 grapes that were grown in the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of Plan de Dieu. The named village appellation of Plan de Dieu, or "God's Plain", is a vast, flat terrace covered in vines, and makes more wine than any other Named Village. The plain lies in the Southern Rhone Valley, between the Aygues and Ouvèze rivers, which feed into the Rhône River from the east. Over thousands of years, the rivers laid down a deep bed of pebbles and clay that is perfect for cultivating vines. The vineyards in Plan de Dieu bask in the sun and are cooled by the north wind. The homogeneous terroir of Plan de Dieu has a Mediterranean climate influenced by the Mistral wind, while the soil consists of clay, limestone, and sands. As a red wine appellation, the main grape is Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in supporting roles. Grenache loves this stony, arid plateau, which used to be covered with a vast garrigue forest.

In this particular vintage, this red wine is composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre, from vines planted in mainly limestone chippings and brown clay. The grapes were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape varietal was traditionally and separately vinified. After two weeks of maceration, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26°C and 28°C, followed by malolactic fermentation, then blended and bottled.

The growing season in 2023 began with a dry start, and a relatively late bud burst. Late-spring rains in May and June were welcome, which preceded a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. It was a season that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils. While the season did present some challenges, it is considered to be a very good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre has a deep, medium-high intensity nose that offers warming black raspberry, garrigue, black cherry, floral, and spice aromas accented with stony mineral and earth notes that gain prominence with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with delicious and complex black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, stony mineral, garrigue, earth, and spice flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, alongside mouth-coating, grainy textured tannins. Shows good balance with savoury, stony mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Should drink well over next 5+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Only one wine (all in one store) from Rémy Ferbras is available at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (Italy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic, and unoaked Montepulciano from Abruzzo that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a leading wine producer that was founded by Gino Umani Ronchi within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche. A few years later, he formed a partnership with the Bianchi family, with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, eventually taking over the company in 1968. In 1990, Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager.

In 2001, Umani Ronchi purchased 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo, which signalled the beginning of a new venture. Today, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo, all of which are organically farmed and nestled between the hills and the sea along the Adriatic coast from Serra de' Conti in Marche in the north to Roseto degli Abruzzi in the south. Their philosophy is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. Their guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values.

This particular wine is from Umani Ronchi's Abruzzo range of wines, which are grown in a unique, alluvial soil whose top layer features sandy-clay loam that allows the vines through the gravel below, giving rise to wines of superb minerality. Moreover, the presence of the nearby Gran Sasso mountain and the winds off the Adriatic Sea allow for notable diurnal temperatures, which helps the grapes develop their aromatic qualities.

Crafted with 100% Montepulciano grapes, this red wine is named "Podere", or Farm. The grapes were obtained from vineyard farms predominantly located in the provinces of Chieti and Teramo. The vines were trained using the tendone system, which is the most widespread vine training system in Abruzzo and known for being fairly productive. When the tendone system is used with the correct balance, it can yield grapes of excellent quality. The grapes for this wine were hand-harvested from the end of September through the first ten days of October. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are macerated for up to 10 days in steel fermenting vats, followed by alcoholic and then malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured in steel for about 4 months, then rested for a short period in bottle prior to release.

The 2023 vintage in Abruzzo was marked by two important events - one positive and one negative. The positive is that wines from the 2023 vintage onward allow for the mention of subzones, along with stricter production rules, in order to achieve recognition and form a stronger bond between grape variety and territory. On the downside, the crop from the 2023 growing season was devastated by downy mildew. Being an organic wine producer, Umani Ronchi was able to fend off some of the fungus, which resulted in a production loss of 25% less than the historical average. After a challenging first part of the vintage, climatic conditions were ideal from August to October, which allowed the Montepulciano grapes to achieve optimal phenolic ripeness. While quantities were low, quality was generally excellent.

Umani Ronchi's version of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are intended to be an interpretation of the vine which exalts the varietal characteristics and freshness, and combines these qualities with just the right amount of charm and softness to create a pleasant and drinkable wine that complements many different kinds of dishes. Let's see how this 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI PODERE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 - DOC, Italy (#46567) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic and unoaked Montepulciano has an open, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers perfumed aromas of rustic wild berries, black cherry, currant, and dried herbal spice characters nuanced with touches of bramble, licorice, and floral notes. The ripe, medium+ bodied palate is dry with delicious black cherry, wild berry, currant, dried herbal spice, and licorice flavours framed by crisp and juicy acidity. The medium-firm, fine-grained tannins are well-structured. The black cherry notes taper to savoury, earthy, and mineral notes on the juicy, very long, and slightly tannic finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years and is a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Umani Ronchi are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2024 and Hedgehog Single Vineyard Xinomavro 2022 (Greece) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, vegan-friendly wines from Greece that arrived at the LCBO last month. The Xinomavro arrived in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Malagouzia arrived in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both wines are readily available across Ontario.

Both of these wines are produced by Alpha Estate, a highly-regarded winery situated in the Amyndeon region of Florina, in Northwestern Macedonia of Greece. It was established in 1997 by experienced viticulturist Makis Mavridis, and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis. They gained many years of experience and had passion in their respective fields before becoming business partners and creating their own wines from vineyards planted in Amyndeon.

The modern winery of Alpha Estate is now run by the next generation of the families, Angeliki Iatridou and Emorfili Mavridou, daughters of Angelos and Makis. Together, they carry on the knowledge and passion for winemaking, while respecting tradition and evolving to participate in Alpha Estate's common vision. With a 220-hectare privately-owned vineyard with a unique ecosystem situated in Amyndeon, they respect nature and use the most recent international standards in eco-friendly and sustainable farming practices and winemaking. The soul of their work is the team of people that contribute every day to the dream, to craft wines with professional know-how and experience throughout each stage, from vineyard to production to promotion.

Alpha Estate's winemaking facility is located at the heart of the vineyard, thereby allowing the grapes to arrive at the winery upon harvesting in the shortest amount of time. Furthermore, the grapes are harvested during the coolest hours of the day and transported to the winery in special refrigerators, which allows the grapes' organoleptic characteristics to be protected and shows the great respect that Alpha Estate has for grapes. The modern winemaking facility was designed to allow the grapes to move throughout the winery by using gravity, which allows for minimum possible stress on the raw material. The winery was constructed in the mid-2000s using highly inactive and neutral materials in order to create a completely neutral atmospheric condition inside the winery, which helps protect the quality of the grape, must, and wine.

This Malagouzia was grown in their Turtles vineyard, on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia, and named "Turtles" because freshwater turtles are commonly found in the nearby lakes and wetlands. The privately-owned 220-hectare vineyard is situated at 620–710 metres above sea level, which is among the highest vineyards in Greece, and planted on sandy – sandy clay soil over limestone, with excellent drainage. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested on September 14th, destemmed, and optically sorted. After undergoing light crushing, the grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, with skin contact. The wine remained in contact with its fine lees for 2 months, with regular stirring.

The Xinomavro was grown by Alpha Estate's founder, Makis Mavridis, and crafted by winemaker Angelos Iatridis. The grapes were grown at Mavridis' privately-owned Hedgehog vineyard on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia. The vineyard is named "Hedgehog" because of the hedgehogs that are commonly found in the area, and is planted between 620–710 metres above sea level, with northern exposure to the sun and facing Lake Petron and Mount Voras. The grapes were brought to the winery and destemmed. Without crushing, the grapes were cold-soaked with skin contact, and underwent alcoholic fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures while maintaining contact sue lie for 8 months, with regular stirring. It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by maturation in bottle for 12 months.

Let's see how these two fantastic wines from Northwestern Macedonia in Greece are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ALPHA ESTATE TURTLES SINGLE VINEYARD MALAGOUZIA 2024 - Vegan, PGI Florina, Greece (#32161) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Malagouzia has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers an elegant mix of leesy, limestone mineral, lemon citrus, and grapefruit aromas flecked with spring flowers, herbs, peach, and tropical fruit. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is dense and impressively structured with crunchy lemon citrus, stony mineral, spice, grapefruit, and herbal flavours nuanced with peach and floral notes. It has crisp, lively, and well-structured acidity, along with a fine, gently chalky textured mouthfeel. Juicy with lemon citrus notes tapering to stony and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG SINGLE VINEYARD XINOMAVRO 2022 - Vegan, PDO Amyndeon, Greece (#259762) (XD) - $29.95
Clean and open, this has a medium-high intensity nose of tomato leaf mingling red cherry, dried rose floral, savoury earth, mineral, licorice, and sandalwood aromas that pleasantly evolve in the glass. The mid-weighted palate is dry and gently spicy with ripe red fruited notes of plum, cherry, tomato leaf, licorice, dried rose floral layered over savoury earth and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, juicy, and lemony acidity, while the supple, textured tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. The tomato and red fruit notes give way to savoury and earthy minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alpha Estate are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG that made its latest arrival at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 8th.

It is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned wine company with deep roots in Tuscany. The company was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence in 1959 and grew up in the fashion business. However, he found his true calling in wine and in 1984 he purchased Castello di Bossi: a project that turned from a passion into a home and destiny. Success followed, and this hobby became his life, which resulted in further acquisitions in Montalcino and beyond, within Italy. His wines garnered critical acclaim and rewarded his vision, which was based upon rigour, terroir, and style.

Today, Bacci Wines aims to be the most accomplished expression of Tuscan wine. They interpret the region's great appellations with a personal style, and offer wines for an audience that seeks quality, identity, and refinement. They have over 190 hectares of vineyards across their estates, each of which is cultivated organically and powered by sustainable energy. One of their more innovative ventures is Talamo a Mare - an underwater cellar located at a depth of 35 metres that is dedicated to the maturation of red wine.

Marco continues to lead Bacci Wines, but he is also assisted by his children in the pursuit of a clear goal: to produce organic wines of the highest quality, in the name of sustainability and oenological excellence. As a lover of nature, Marco also supports environmental protection projects and contributes to the preservation of the black rhino in Africa. In 2019, entrepreneur and innovator Serg Bell joined the company as a minority partner and shares Marco's vision for wines that combine excellence, sustainability, and international openness. The philosophy at Bacci Wines is simple and rigourous - to craft organic wines of the highest quality, while fully respecting the environment and tradition.

Tenuta di Renieri is one of several holdings of Bacci Wines. The estate is located in the heart of the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southern part of Chianti Classico, and within an area renowned for its Sangiovese and Chianti Classico wines. Tenuta di Renieri borders the prestigious lands of Castello di Bossi, and covers an area of approximately 60 hectares, 22 hectares of which are cultivated with vines. The estate specializes in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva wines, while delivering an authentic expression of the territory and standing out for crafting superior quality wines.

The south-facing vineyards at Tenuta di Renieri enjoy a privileged position, which ensures that the grapes receive perfect sun exposure and optimal ripening conditions, resulting in wines that are ideally balanced between freshness and structure. The soils at the estate are extremely varied and range from yellow clay to tuff (weathered volcanic rock), which is an ideal combination for viticulture. Furthermore, the subsoil on the estate is rich in rounded stones, which act as natural drainage and ensures optimal water management, while also contributing to the health of the vines and the superior quality of the bunches. This particular subsoil also forces the vines to go deep into soil in the search for nutrients, picking up minerality along the way. It is this harmonious fusion between terroir and viticultural practices that makes the wines of Tenuta di Renieri an authentic celebration of the tradition and excellence of Chianti Classico.

Like the 2020 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted with 100% Sangiovese that was organically grown around the estate in Chianti Classico subzone of Castelnuovo Berardenga. The vines are situated at 300 metres above sea level and planted on tuff, yellow clay soil. The wine was traditionally vinified and matured in barriques for 12 months.

In 2022, the growing season in Tuscany was the warmest ever recorded, with average temperatures 1.3°C higher than the mean period from 1991 to 2020. Furthermore, the Castelnuovo Berardenga subzone is warmer than other UGAs. Weather anomalies were more significant during winter, spring, and late fall, instead of the crucial summer months of the growing cycle. While maximum temperatures stayed relatively high throughout the summer, heat spikes were few and short. Pre-harvest conditions in September were favourable in Chianti Classico as temperatures dropped considerably in most townships. Prolonged drought characterized much of the season, until significant rainfall between late August and the beginning of September rehydrated the berries. From a surprisingly positive vintage, let's see how this 2022 Chianti Classico Annata is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2022 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $24.95
This organic Sangiovese has a clean, medium-high intensity nose with an attractive mix of dark red fruited and spicy aromas with notes of black cherry, cinnamon, clove, and sweet spices accented with savoury dark earth and bramble, plus whiffs of dark minerals. The medium+ bodied palate is ripe with black and sour cherry mingling with savoury dark earth, mineral, spice, cinnamon, and clove flavours. It is well-structured with crisp, food-friendly acidity and somewhat youthfully grippy, and chalky textured tannins. Very tasty with cherry, clove, savoury dark minerals, and earth on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci estates can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Inniskillin 50th Anniversary Single Vineyard Wines (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a trio of exceptional wines that were launched this past summer by Inniskillin Wines to celebrate their 50th anniversary. As they celebrated their first 50 years of excellence with great pride, they are also looking forward to the next 50 years, which promises to be even more exciting. This excitement is fuelled by Canadian innovation and the launch of a series of new, premium wines to elevate your table.

The first 50 years at Inniskillin began when it was granted the first winery licence since prohibition in 1975 to become Canada's first estate winery. It was established by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, two friends and business partners who became instant pioneers in Canadian winemaking after taking big risks and earning many firsts in the Canadian wine history. Karl was the Head Winemaker and helped develop Inniskillin's reputation for over 30 years before eventually stepping away from the project in 2006.

In 2007, Bruce Nicholson assumed the role of senior winemaker at Inniskillin in Niagara. Bruce had previously spent approximately 20 years working in the Okanagan Valley before returning to Niagara to provide leadership and ensuring that Inniskillin continued to excel.

In 2013, Nicholas Gizuk joined Inniskillin and rose up through the ranks within the company to become Head Winemaker at Inniskillin's Niagara Estate in 2001. Nicholas is part of a new generation of winemakers that stand on the shoulders of Donald and Karl. This new generation of winemakers are using the success of the last 50 years as the foundation for what’s next and believe that the next chapter will be even more exciting.

Nicholas Gizuk says that "With a renewed focus on single vineyard expressions, we're showcasing the incredible diversity of Canadian terroir through wines that are unmistakably Inniskillin, Our intimate history and experience with this land and these grapes puts us in a position to develop one-of-a-kind wines that simply can't be re-created anywhere else."

Today, as Canada's oldest winery, Inniskillin Wines is synonymous with Canadiana and part of a family of wineries owned by Arterra Wines Canada. Inniskillin is looking to the future and is ready to redefine what premium Canadian wine can be once again with innovative techniques and over 50 years of experience that focus on every aspect of from terroir to winemaking, to deliver high-quality wines that can only be made in Canada.

In addition to this Single Vineyard Riesling and a pair of Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc wines, the other two wines in the series are the 2022 Inniskillin Illuvia Cabernet Franc, which I enjoyed a couple of months ago, and the 2024 Inniskillin Zabek Single Vineyard Riesling Icewine. All five wines in the series are available at Inniskillin and online at Great Estates Niagara, while the Icewine is also available in very limited quantities at the LCBO. Inniskillin's 50th Anniversary Series wines are ideal companions to elevate your next hosting engagement or gifting needs.

Tasting Notes:

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD MONTAGUE RIESLING 2024 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $29.22
Stelvin screw cap enclosure. The medium-high intensity nose has lovely, focused aromas of orange zest, white peach, honeyed melon, and lemon/lime citrus, plus whiffs of petrol and limestone minerality adding savoury complexity. It's medium+ bodied with impressive concentration and structure on the dry palate with delicious beeswax, honey, white peach, orange, and melon replays, plus white grapefruit, spice and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, succulent, and structured acidity, along with a finely textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced throughout, and tapering to leesy minerals and limestone on the savoury finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Light, textured fish, poached and fried white meats, shellfish, sushi, mild Asian cuisine, and citrus-based sauces.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD HERON POND CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose is clean and fresh, with herbaceous aromas mingling with ripe red & black fruits, currant, black cherry, and tobacco, plus touches of cedary oak spice and reductive notes. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry, elegant, and complex palate with ripe red fruits, red currant, black cherry, red licorice, and red plum nuanced with dried herbs, gentle oak spice, tobacco flavours. It is well-balanced throughout with refreshing acidity, and smooth, elegant, and fine-grained tannins. Tobacco, spice, and savoury earth notes linger on long, well-structured, and balanced finish. Score: 91+ pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, tart red fruit sauces and firm cheeses.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD LAMENT FARMS CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose has savoury dark fruited aromas rising out of the glass, with layers of black currant, dark cherry, cedar, savoury oak spice, and earthy mineral, plus flecks of white pepper and Damson plum adding further interest and complexity. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with more dark fruited replays of currant, cassis, black cherry, oak spice, pipe tobacco, savoury earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the firm, somewhat youthful tannins are well-structured. Touch grippy and slightly tangy with dark berry, savoury earth, and dried herbal notes on the long-lasting finish. Enjoyable now, but should improve with time in the cellar and drink well over the next 6-8 years. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, bitter chocolate, tart red fruit sauces, and firm cheeses.

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