Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2025 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, unoaked Verdejo from Rueda, Spain, that was included as part of the feature on wines "Beyond Chardonnay" in the June 20th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of inventory available at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

It is produced by Beronia, a bodega that was established in La Rioja, Spain, in 1973 by a group of friends that were united in their love of gastronomy and had a mission to create great wines to complement their culinary creations. Situated in the Rioja Alta village of Ollauri, within a landscape shaped by the River Ebro and the Cantabrian Mountains, the winery is rooted in the region and pays tribute to the Celtic tribe — Los Berones — who inhabited the region in 3rd Century B.C. In 1982, Beronia joined González Byass, a large, family-owned Spanish wine group.

In 2017, Beronia expanded into Rueda and created a winery solely for the production of Verdejo, a Spanish variety whose home is in Rueda. Today, they have 65 hectares of vines in Rueda, all dedicated to the production of their award-winning Verdejo wines. The stony, alluvial, and free-draining soils are rich in minerals, encouraging the vines to work hard for water and resulting in wines that are rich, aromatic, and flavourful.

Both wineries were specifically created for optimal sustainable production. Everything from the design and materials of the buildings to the technological innovations inside has been developed to promote maximum efficiency and minimal impact on the environment. They strive for the perfect balance between honouring local traditions while using advanced, modern practices to make the very best wines that their land can produce.

To craft this 100% Verdejo, the grapes were mechanically harvested at night to maintain fruit freshness and prevent oxidation through expedited processing. The grapes were gently pressed in an inert atmosphere to minimize browning in the must, while separation of musts was also performed based on their quality. It was fermented in both stainless steel and concrete tanks with selected yeasts at a controlled-temperature of between 14–17ºC for 10–15 days. Fermenting in stainless steel provides for absolute control over temperature and fermentation speed, and results in wines with clean, complex, and intense aromas. Fermentation in concrete promotes wine contact with lees, along with the vessel's porosity (micro-oxygenation) that helps achieve wines with a great mouthfeel. After ageing on its lees for 2 to 3 months, with weekly stirrings, the wines were clarified, filtered, blended, and bottled.

To craft this 100% Verdejo, the grapes were mechanically harvested at night to maintain fruit freshness and prevent oxidation through expedited processing. The grapes were gently pressed in an inert atmosphere to minimize browning in the must, while separation of musts was also performed based on their quality. It was fermented in both stainless steel and concrete tanks with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature of between 14–17ºC for 10–15 days. Fermenting in stainless steel provides precise control over temperature and fermentation speed, resulting in wines with clean, complex, and intense aromas. Fermentation in concrete promotes greater lees contact, while the vessel's porosity allows gentle micro-oxygenation that helps achieve wines with a great mouthfeel. After ageing on its lees for 2 to 3 months, with weekly stirrings, the wines were clarified, filtered, blended, and bottled.

One of the most distinctive features of this wine is Beronia's ability to preserve a portion of the freshly pressed must in cold storage and delay its alcoholic fermentation until the following spring. This allows the winery to produce freshly fermented Verdejo well beyond the normal harvest period, helping to preserve the wine's vibrant freshness and intense varietal aromas.

In 2025, the growing season across Spain was almost unanimously declared as "exceptional". One of the main factors that influenced the vintage was the return of rainfall, after several years of severe drought conditions. This helped the vineyards recover, but also led to mildew pressure after the spring rains. Heat waves in June and August caused a reduction in yields, but did not compromise quality. In DO Rueda, slow and homogeneous ripening led to grapes with excellent alcohol levels, balanced acidity, and intense varietal aromas, especially in the region's signature grape — Verdejo. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2025 Verdejo from Rueda is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BERONIA RUEDA VERDEJO 2025 - Vegan, DO Rueda, Spain (#461327) (XD) - $16.95
Screw cap. Clean, medium to medium-high intensity nose is fresh and gently spicy with ripe lemon citrus, golden apple, pear, saline, and leesy mineral aromas, plus touches of white floral and herbs. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is refreshingly vibrant with lively acidity lifting the delicious lemon citrus, golden apple, pear, saline, leesy mineral, spice, and herbal flavours with an underlying savoury earth note. It has a lovely, textured mouthfeel throughout with lemon, apple, saline, and mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Quite a few wines by Beronia are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Umani Ronchi Vellodoro Pecorino 2025 (Abruzzo) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Pecorino from Abruzzo, Italy, that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a highly respected and pioneering Italian wine producer. Umani Ronchi was established in 1957 by Gino Umani Ronchi in the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche in central Italy. A few years later, Gino formed a partnership with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, who would eventually take over the company in 1968.

In Abruzzo, Umani Ronchi initially operated as a négociant in the 1990s in order to craft wines from the region. In 2001, they marked the beginning of a new venture by acquiring roughly 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo. Situated between the Gran Sasso and Adriatic Sea, the estate would go on to become Tenuta Centovie estate at Roseto degli Abruzzi.

Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager in 1990. With Michele at the helm, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo. The philosophy at Umani Ronchi is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. These guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values. The winery is also a proud and founding member of the Istituto del Vino di Qualità – Grandi Marchi, an organization established in 2004 that brought together 18 of Italian wine's most important families that are also shaping the future for generations to come.

This white wine is made from 100% Pecorino, a grape that in the past was used more often as a blending variety thanks to its highly concentrated aromas, good alcohol content, and wonderful acidity. In 2005, Umani Ronchi's Pecorino Project began with the goal of discovering and developing native Adriatic varieties, as well as strengthening the winery's position as a top wine producer in Abruzzo. Pecorino had almost disappeared from vineyards because its naturally low yields made it unpopular with growers, but it has since become widely planted in Abruzzo and neighbouring Marche. According to local tradition, the grape gets its name because sheep (pecora) are known to eat the grapes.

The grapes for this Pecorino were grown at Umani Ronchi's estate in Roseto degli Abruzzi in Teramo, overlooking the Gran Sasso mountain. The vines were tended with strict selection and careful vineyard management led by the winery's agronomic supervisors, especially in the northern part of Chieti. The soils are mainly clay that is sandy, deep and relatively fresh, while the climate provides a good thermal diurnal range that promotes elegance and aromatic complexity.

It is also worth noting that previous vintages of this wine, some of which I have tasted previously, bore the Terre di Chieti IGT classification, while this vintage bears the new Terre d'Abruzzo IGT appellation. The new regional designation consolidates the eight IGTs that previously existed across Abruzzo into a single, common regional identity, helping to promote a stronger image for wines from the region.

To craft this wine, the grapes were carefully hand-harvested in September to preserve acidity. After lightly pressing the grapes, the must was rapidly cooled and underwent static decantation. Alcoholic fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 16–18°C for about 10–15 days, without undergoing malolactic fermentation. After fermentation, the wine was matured on its lees in stainless steel tanks for about four months.

The growing conditions in 2025 in Abruzzo began with a cool and rainy start to the season, which replenished water reserves following drought conditions in 2024. Summer was warm and sunny, allowing for proper ripening, while large diurnal temperature shifts in August and September helped preserve freshness and aromatic intensity. A temperate harvest period avoided heat stress, resulting in healthy fruit with full phenolic ripeness. It was a vintage that marked a return to balance and normality, producing exceptional grape quality. Let's see how this 2025 Pecorino from Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI VELLODORO PECORINO 2025 - IGT Terre d'Abruzzo, Italy (#289553) (XD) - $17.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose has lovely, concentrated aromas of ripe lemon citrus, yellow & white flowers, apple, pear, and spice, with undertones of leesy minerals and herbs. On the dry, weighty, medium-full bodied palate it is impressively concentrated with dry, ripe, and gently honeyed flavours of spice, lemon citrus, apple, pear, leesy mineral, floral, and herbs in a complex profile. It has a slightly viscous mouthfeel, along with fresh and juicy acidity. Lemon citrus, apple, pear, and spice notes taper to leesy minerals on the crisp, lip-smacking, and long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Boutari Assyrtiko 2025 (Greece) - Wine Review

I enjoyed the 2023 Boutari The Authentic Assyrtiko nearly a year ago, and while tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of the same wine, it does come to us with slightly simplified branding by removing "The Authentic" from the label. Nevertheless, this is a lovely white wine that arrived at the LCBO just over a week ago in the July 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the historic, renowned, and well-respected Boutari wine company that was established in 1879 by Ioannis Boutaris in Naoussa, Macedonia, in Northern Greece. As one of Greece's most influential and important wineries, Ioannis built Naoussa's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar in 1906, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

Boutari was passed down along family lines from father to son with Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, taking over the reins in the mid-1930s and laying the foundation of the wine company for years to come. In 1968, Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris, the two sons of Stelios, took over the winery and ventured into vine growing by purchasing a vineyard in Imathia, in Central Macedonia of Northern Greece, and took the family business to new heights, including building their new state-of-the-art winery in 1978 in Stenimachos, Naoussa, a facility that would become their flagship winery as a centre for production, bottling, and ageing.

During the 1980s, Boutari continued to grow and expand while highlighting Greece's various unique wine regions and vine-growing qualities, along with experimenting and cultivating both Greek and international varieties to create a series of experimental wines, some of which remain in the current portfolio. In 2022, a new chapter in the story of Boutari wineries began as they were acquired by holding company Hellenic Wineries, with Elias and Thomas Georgiadis as key investors. While no longer family-owned, the investor group has promised to preserve the heritage and further develop the Boutari name, while also continuing the long tradition of Boutari wineries.

Like the last vintage I tasted, this Assyrtiko is from Boutari's "Varieties" range, which focuses on Greek and international varietal wines from Greece's main wine producing regions and is crafted with passion and love. To craft this wine, the Assyrtiko grapes were selected from the mountainous regions of Florina and Pieria, in Macedonia of Northern Greece. A combination of both berry testing and analytical data determined the time of harvest in each vineyard, while all harvesting took place during the lowest possible temperatures of the day. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were strictly sorted manually, then underwent alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperatures using selected yeast strains. Upon completing fermentation, the wine remained in tank for aging by stirring its fine lees until it was bottled.

The growing season in Northern Greece in 2025 was a return to relative normality after a couple of tough harvests marked by major weather events. In 2025, the conditions were generally typical and featured no extreme weather phenomena, with June and July being notably hot and dry, while a diurnal temperature drop of 10°C nightly helped preserve acidity. Cold and rainy conditions arrived at the appropriate time, while heat during the day and cold nights ensured that the grapes developed full aromatics and phenolic ripeness. From a very good to excellent vintage, let's see how this 2025 Assyrtiko from Macedonia in Northern Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI ASSYRTIKO 2025 - PGI Macedonia, Greece (#44246) (XD) - $23.95
Fresh and slightly perfumed, the medium-high to high intensity nose offers engaging and complex aromas of yellow & white floral, lemon citrus, leesy mineral, yellow apple, and spice. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has a textured and slightly chewy mouthfeel with lovely, ripe, and gently honeyed flavours of yellow & white floral, lemon citrus, apple, leesy mineral and spice replays in a nicely balanced profile. Acids are juicy and well-balanced. Touches of pleasing, savoury bitterness appear on the mid-palate, and tapers to apple, lemon, and leesy minerals on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Several other lovely wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Gorghi Tondi Maremeo Sauvignon Blanc 2025 and Dumè Frappato 2025 (Sicily) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely, organic wines from Sicily. Both made their first appearance at the LCBO this month, with the Frappato arriving as part of the feature on chilled red wines in the June 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Sauvignon Blanc landed over the weekend in the June 20 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, a family-owned estate winery whose story begins with Dora Sala, the matriarch of the family and great-grandmother of sisters Annamaria and Clara Sala, who had a great love for nature, grapes, and the land. Dora was a strong, far-sighted, and innovative woman who was an inspiration to all the women in the family.

Situated in the extreme western part of the island of Sicily, Tenuta Gorghi Tondi was formally founded in 2000 by Michele, who had worked in the business for over forty years, and his wife, Doretta, who is the granddaughter of Dora. A few years later, their daughters, Annamaria and Clara, returned home from their careers and were surrounded by the family vineyards and wines, while facing a new challenge to build a future and bringing back the old dream of crafting premium wines in Sicily.

Today, Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is led by the two sisters, Annamaria and Clara, who carry on with the same determination and love for the land. The Sala family has always had a strong bond with their territory, especially the High, Medium, and Low "whirlpools" (the so-called "Gorghi") that are at the heart of an oasis, which is also the inspiration for the name of the winery - Gorghi Tondi, or Round Whirlpools. They have two properties within the Mazara del Vallo countryside, named Ramisella and San Nicola, and cover over 130 hectares of vines which overlook the horizon and are cradled by the sea breeze in Western Sicily. The winemaking philosophy at Gorghi Tondi is to produce high-quality organic and sustainable wines, in harmony with a unique and naturally gifted terroir.

As organic viticulture and sustainability are core values at Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, all the grapes are grown organically and certified since 2016, without the use of any synthetic chemicals. Emergency irrigation is practiced only if absolutely necessary to maintain the authentic aromas and flavours of the grapes. On the sustainability front, Gorghi Tondi uses clean energy to allow for sustainable development and to protect the ecosystem. In 2025, Gorghi Tondi achieved their VIVA and SOStain Sicilia certifications, which verifies their commitment to environmental performance, biodiversity protection, responsible water use, carbon footprint management, and sustainable vineyard practices.

First crafted in the 2021 vintage, the Maremeo is the Sicilian expression of Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were grown at approximately 25 metres above sea level in southwestern Sicily, in the countryside area of Mazara del Vallo, province of Trapani, in Contrada San Nicola. It comes from younger vines planted in calcareous and sandy soil that daily breathes the coastal breezes. This wine is from Gorghi Tondi's "Wines of Good Cheer" line, which aims to capture the essence of summer and the vital joy of the Mediterranean Sea's foam.

The Frappato comes from the same Contrada as the Sauvignon Blanc and was first produced in the 2017 vintage. The Dumè represents a fascinating original in the winemaking history of Tenuta Gorghi Tondi as they decided to test themselves for the first time with the indigenous Frappato, one of eastern Sicily's oldest and famous grape varieties. In the Sicilian dialect, the name Dumè literally means "ours or in our way", and Dumè was created with the desire to interpret this historic grape through the unique lens of the Mazara del Vallo terroir. The label for this wine is a lively tribute to the island's art and culture, and is inspired by the iconic geometries and colours of Sicilian ceramics.

In 2025, the growing season in Sicily featured balanced climatic conditions, resulting in fresh, balanced wines of good quality, with coastal areas and those at higher altitudes particularly standing out. Let's see how this 2025 Sauvignon Blanc and 2025 Frappato from Sicily are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

GORGHI TONDI MAREMEO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2025 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#49062) (XD) - $19.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose offers a fine and intriguing mix of ripe lemon citrus and sea spray aromas nuanced with passion fruit, tropical fruit, peach, saline mineral, and grapefruit. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is well-structured and lightly honeyed with spiced flavours ripe lemon, citrus, saline mineral, tropical fruit, and peach. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, alongside a mineral textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Juicy, saline mineral and lemon notes taper to savoury on the long, textured finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

GORGHI TONDI DUMÈ FRAPPATO 2025 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#50571) (XD) - $22.95
100% Frappato. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is ripe and fruity with red berried aromas of black raspberry, cran-cherry, and strawberry joined by whiffs of smoky mineral and savoury earth. It's light-to-mid weighted on the dry palate with lovely spicy notes alongside black raspberry, strawberry, cran-cherry, and red plum flavours surrounding a core of savoury, stony minerals. It has fresh and vibrant acidity, along with slightly grippy textured tannins. The grippy mid-palate leads to raspberry and cherry notes that taper to savoury, stony mineral flavours on the long finish. Chill well for best enjoyment and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other fine & exciting wines by Gorghi Tondi can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Maison Fontan Tattoo Blanc 2024 (Southwest France) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng from Southwest France, that is a brand new arrival at the LCBO, landing in Ontario as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on June 6th.

Like the delicious 2022 Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge I tasted in December, this white wine is produced by the historic and family-owned Maison Fontan, a wine estate located in the commune of Noulens, within the Gers department of southwestern France.

The story of the Fontan family began in 1907, when the first generation moved to Maubet Farm in Noulens, and practiced mixed farming. The farm was then given as a wedding gift to Ésilda and Maximen Fontan, the second generation of the family. In 1975, the husband and wife team of Jean-Claude and Aline Fontan, who represented the third generation of the family, began transforming the property into viticulture. Their passion for viticulture played a pivotal role by helping instigate the development of Côtes de Gascogne wines.

In 2001, the fourth generation of the family took over the reins as siblings Sylvain and Nadège Fontan, son and daughter, respectively, of Aline and Jean-Claude, began managing the 80 hectares of vineyards. Together, the siblings have continued to develop the estate, with Sylvain taking on the role of winemaking and cellar master, while Nadège handles marketing and sales.

Until 2021, the estate was known as Domaine de Maubet, at which point it was rebranded as Maison Fontan. The farmhouse in which their great-grandparents moved into is still central to the estate as it is a place where people live, come together and work. Nestled among vines, the traditional Gascon half-timbered building is also a place where the natural world is listened to and respected.

Today, with immense pride and unfailing courage, the Fontan siblings continue down the pathway forged by their great-grandparents. With passion and respect for their forebears and the natural environment that surrounds them, the family has always practiced sustainable winegrowing, while common sense is de rigueur. The winemaking philosophy at Fontan is based on respecting nature and the environment, along with the belief that if they nourish the soil to the right extent, and if they take care of it, it will give their vines the best grapes. From soil to glass, the family takes a thoughtful and thorough approach to every phase of production to deliver wines that are safe, well-controlled, and consistently high in quality.

This white wine is crafted using a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Gros Manseng that was grown on clay-limestone and boulbenne, a very fine, siliceous, and silty-sandy soil that is excellent terroir for white wine varieties. The grapes were machine-harvested and placed into vats to undergo 8 to 12 hours of maceration with the skins, then pressed using a pneumatic press. In order to separate the juice from the solids, it was stored at 8°C for 5 days, then underwent alcoholic fermentation at 18°C for 12 to 18 days. The wines are then filtered, assembled, and stabilized, and kept in vats at 8°C until they are bottled and released, which takes place all year round.

The growing season in 2024 in the French wine region of Southwest was, like much of the country, a difficult one with challenging weather conditions. Coulure, millerandage, mildew, frost, and hail resulted in reduced yields, which followed a poor harvest in 2023. Let's see how this 2024 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng from Côtes de Gascogne in Southwest France is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MAISON FONTAN TATTOO BLANC 2024 - IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest, France (#48562) (D) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Gros Manseng has a delicate, medium+ intensity nose that is ripe and sweet fruited with candied lemon, pear, apricot, floral, and tropical fruit aromas. On the medium-full bodied palate it is rich and flavourful with delicious ripe, candied lemon, citrus, apricot, tropical fruit, and pear flavours in a zesty, slightly off-dry (i.e. sweet) profile. Acids are juicy and well-balanced, while the candied lemon, citrus, pear, and tropical fruit notes taper savoury notes on a slightly sticky finish, with very good length. A quality wine that will be a crowd pleaser. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Their Tattoo Rouge is available on clearance at the LCBO, while the full range of Maison Fontan wines can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Jean Perrier & Fils Cuvée Gastronomie Abymes Savoie 2024 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely wine from the Abymes appellation in Savoie crafted with the Jacquère varietal. It made its debut at the LCBO as part of the feature on Summer-Worthy Wines in last weekend's May 23 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jean Perrier & Fils, a family-run winery with a long history linked to the wines of Savoie. It was established in 1853 by Catherine Perrier, a native of the commune of Barberaz in Saovie, who purchased a cellar in St André les Marches and started growing vines next to the mountain Mont Granier.

In 1911, Claude Emile Perrier, son of Catherine, acquired a second cellar, but had to replant the vineyard due to phylloxera. The family expanded their vineyard and cellar in 1920 under the guidance of Jean Perrier, son of Claude Emile. The Perrier family made their wine in bulk and sold it to cafés up until 1947, when Jean Victor Perrier, son of Jean, extended the lands further and became the first in Savoie to bottle their own wine. By 1953, Jean and his two employees were farming over 2 hectares of vines.

In 1964, Gilbert Perrier, son of Jean Victor, joined the family business and under his direction further improvements were made - including setting up their first bottling line, extending the cellars, and also building a new winery. By 1984, President Gilbert welcomed his two elder sons into the family, while his third son joined the company about a decade later. The three brothers — Philippe, Christophe, and Gilles — share the tasks of vinification, trade, administration, and marketing. Gilles' son has also recently joined the winery and represents the 7th generation of the Perrier family to work the vines.

Today, Vins Perrier farms over 59 hectares of vineyards across 8 towns throughout the Savoie. All farming is practiced sustainably, and by hand, while time-honoured traditions in the vineyard and cellar are combined with modern techniques to create wines of exacting standards that are fresh, clean, and vibrant, and also express the pure character of Savoie.

Like the lovely 2023 Jean Perrier & Fils Cuvée Gastronomie Chignin I enjoyed around this time last year, this white wine is also made with pure Jacquère grapes. Indigenous to Savoie, Jacquère is the most widely planted grape varietal in the Savoie winegrowing region, with over 50% of the vineyards planted with Jacquère. The mid-sized grapes naturally grow in tight bunches with a thick skin, juicy pulp, and a slightly bitter taste. It is an early-budding and early-ripening variety with high acid that tends to produce lower-alcohol wines.

This 100% Jacquère was grown on argilo-calcaire (limestone and clay) soils from estate vines on gentle slopes within the Abymes appellation. The terroir in this area was created by a landslide in the 13th century. The grapes are carefully pruned during the growing season as the nights are extremely cool, while aspect and canopy management are used to ensure the grapes ripen with exposure to the midday sun. As an early-ripening variety, the Jacquère grapes were manually harvested and carefully selected at full ripeness. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were crushed using a pneumatic press and then fermented for three weeks at 20°C in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. It was bottled young in order to preserve the fruit and freshness.

In 2024, spring frosts affected the vineyards in Savoie, while mildew was also a threat. However, Jacquère is fairly mildew-resistant. Quality is high in this vintage, even though yields are slightly reduced. Let's see how this 2024 Jacquère from Savoie is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN PERRIER & FILS CUVÉE GASTRONOMIE ABYMES SAVOIE 2024 - AOP, France (#944264) (XD) - $19.95
Crafted with 100% Jacquère, this has a lifted, medium-high intensity nose that offers lovely lemon oil, ripe citrus, floral blossom, yellow plum, and grapefruit aromatics accented with almond and touches of mineral and spice. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has ripe, gently honeyed flavours of melon, lemon citrus, and grapefruit, and yellow plum, plus touches of almond, leesy mineral, and spice notes adding savoury complexity. Acids are clean and fresh, while fine leesy mineral notes linger on the long-lasting and juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Jean Perrier & Fils can be ordered through their Agent - Buyers+Cellars.

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Urbanihof 4U Grüner Veltliner 2024 (Austria) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2024 Urbanihof Classic Grüner Veltliner last month, tonight's white wine review is another lovely, organic wine from the same producer that also made its debut at the LCBO recently and was featured in the thematic of the April 25th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Weingut Urbanihof, a family-run organic winery that has been passed down from one generation to the next for over 400 years. Urbanihof is situated in Fels am Wagram, in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), which is Austria's largest Qualitätswein winegrowing region.

Today, Weingut Urbanihof is run by the 11th generation of the family – Sonja and Franz Paschinger, while their children, the 12th generation — Lisa, Jakob, and Julia — wait in the wings as they look to manage their family's 40 hectares of organic vineyards. Lisa is a graduate of Höhere Bundeslehranstalt (HBLA) in Fruit and Viticulture in Klosterneuburg, and Jakob is currently a student in the same program at HBLA, while Julia is a wine enthusiast and aspiring lawyer.

The Paschinger family's focus is on sustainability and quality, while striving to offer their customers only the very best. The family places great importance on healthy vineyards and wines that inspire and, since 2000, they have worked as naturally and gently as possible. Weingut Urbanihof became certified organic in 2016, which has allowed them to achieve their ultimate goal of leaving future generations with healthy soils and ample fertile space for growth, and ultimately a foundation for long-term success.

Their philosophy in the densely planted vineyards is to keep yields low, while guaranteeing optimal ripening conditions by intensely managing the soil and canopy. One of the things that make Urbanihof unique is that for the last five years, they have been sustainably producing rich manure through their own composting of horse manure and grape pomace. The manure is then applied to their vineyards, which ensures a healthy, nutrient-rich soil.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Grüner Veltliner that was organically cultivated in the Fels area of the Wagram DAC, in Lower Austria, on deep loess soils. The name "4U" simply means "for you", and was created as an inviting, modern label to make Austrian wine more accessible and in a friendly and approachable manner. It was vinified by undergoing a cold fermentation of 18°C in stainless steel tanks and bottled without seeing any time in oak.

Like the aforementioned Classic Grüner Veltliner, this Grüner is also from a challenging 2024 vintage that produced miraculous results. The growing season featured rain during early bud break and spring frosts, along with rain in early summer and in September, all of which combined to reduced yields. On the positive side, temperatures rose by mid-June, which allowed the grapes to ripen on schedule and reach phenolic ripeness, with the hot temperatures continuing well into September. While challenging, the vintage favoured Grüner Veltliner as the variety is more resistant to rain. The resulting wines made with Grüner Veltliner tend to be ripe and with relatively lower acidity levels. From a good vintage, let's see how this 2024 Grüner Veltliner from Austria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

URBANIHOF 4U GRÜNER VELTLINER 2024 - DAC Fels, Wagram, Austria (#49424) (XD) - $21.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic Grüner Veltliner has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of stone fruit, peach, melon, lemon drop, citrus, and grapefruit aromas flecked with leesy minerals. The weighty palate is dry with a slight spritz and delicious, ripe flavours of melon, white peach, stone fruit, lemon citrus, and grapefruit. Acids are clean, fresh, and balanced, while the rounded mid-palate is mildly textured with spice touches. Melon, peach, and citrus notes taper to leesy minerals on the long, crisp, and savoury finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

The Classic Grüner Veltliner is available at the LCBO, while the full range of wines by Weingut Urbanihof can be ordered their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Bolgrad Select Chardonnay 2024 and Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Ukraine) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of delicious wines from Ukraine that made their debut at the LCBO in last month's April 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Bolgrad Winery, the No. 1 still-wine producing winery in Ukraine, as they produce 18% of the country's still-wine production. Bolgrad is based in the Odesa region, which is at the heart of the country's winemaking, with over 60% of Ukraine's vines rooted in this region. While the brand was only formed in 1990, the company's history goes back more than 100 years.

Bolgrad's history begins in 1900, when it was housed in the State Wine Warehouse, and vines were grown by landowners. Over time, the producer became the country's largest state-owned winery. At the end of the war in 1945, the company's official history with a decree, and it became a factory on paper. The winery has travelled a thorny path since that time, but has maintained its principles and commitment to producing high-quality wine.

Today, Bolgrad is a well-established producer of alcoholic beverages, including wine and spirits, with quality control at every stage and distribution in various countries globally. To produce their wines, they use a combination of both traditional and modern winemaking techniques.

These wines are from Bolgrad's Select Collection, which is their export-focused, premium range of wines. Selection Collection wines are varietally expressive, fruit-forward, and designed for international palates. Each of these wines are mono-varietal wines that were grown on the southwestern slopes of Yalpug, one of Ukraine's largest freshwater lakes. This area is nestled in a unique valley, where the grapes are kissed by the sunlight from both the sun in the sky and its shimmering reflection on the water's surface. The grapes were carefully selected and hand-harvested at the precise moment of optimal maturity to produce wines of balance.

Given the challenging conditions that are present in the country, the 2024 vintage in Ukraine is considered to be a success in terms of quality. There was continuous rainfall throughout winter and spring, until late May, while summer was exceptionally sunny and hot, which resulted in an earlier than usual harvest. Yields were impacted by the weather conditions, as well as the ongoing conflict, but overall, the vintage is considered to be of exceptional quality. Let's see how these 2024 vintage wines from Ukraine are tasting...

Tasting Notes:

BOLGRAD SELECT CHARDONNAY 2024 - Odesa, Ukraine (#48301) (XD) - $17.95
Delicate, medium intensity nose features white peach, apricot, and ripe lemon citrus aromas, plus hints of honeyuckle and floral. The weighty, medium-full bodied palate is dry with honeyed notes of lemon citrus, apple, pear, apricot, and honeysuckle flavours. It has clean, well-balanced acidity, along with some spicy warmth on the mid-palate. Citrus and apricot notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 87+ pts

BOLGRAD SELECT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2024 - Ukraine (#48357) (XD) - $17.95
A gentle nose of red plum and currant aromas with hints of cran-cherry, cassis, and savoury oak. It's medium-full bodied and very ripe with sweet fruited flavours of currant, cassis, plum, black cherry, and oak spice. It's supported by very good, fresh acidity, alongside well-structured and gently grippy tannins. Good length on the savoury, slightly smoky finish. Score: 86 pts

While there is a Brandy by Bolgrad available at the LCBO, any other products may be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Château Roquefort Les Roches Blanches Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux that landed at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the April 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Château Roquefort, a family estate winery situated between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers in the heart of the Entre-deux-Mers region, within the commune of Lugasson and only a stone's throw away from Saint-Émilion. The estate has a very long, deep-rooted history, and has also passed through several families over the centuries, with the Bellanger family taking over Château Roquefort in 1976.

The name Roquefort takes its name from the Middle Ages: Roca Forte, which means rocky outcrop. Archeological evidence from the Neolithic era at the site finds a human settlement on the Roquefort limestone plateau, including pottery dating back to 4500 BC, along with a walkway and mass burial site at around 3700 BC. Further excavations revealed items from the Bronze and Iron Ages, as well as from the Gallo-Roman era. The oldest archival documents refer to the Roquefort fortification house in 1291 that was authorized to be rebuilt by King Edward I of England, with only a part of the original tower remaining today and has been restored by the Bellanger family.

From the 18th century onward, the château has evolved and tells a story of agriculture and winemaking in the region. When Jean and Christiane Bellanger fell in love with Château Roquefort in 1976, they breathed new life into the site in Entre-deux-Mers. Together, they understood terroir and gradually replanted the vineyard and worked with the Bordeaux Faculty of Oenology to adopt the best winemaking practices. By 1983, there were 30 hectares of vines, and in 1987 they began winemaking activities.

Today, Château Roquefort is run by the son of Jean and Christiane, Frédéric Bellanger, and his wife Anne. Frédéric took over the reins from his parents in 1995 and continued to develop the estate, which now covers 240 hectares, of which 85 hectares are grape vines. Together, they have succeeded in strengthening the estate's soul by paying tribute to its history and traditions, while also pushing towards a modern era of responsible and expert winemaking. They also share a passion for wine and the products of nature, which tell their history and provide unforgettable tasting moments and emotional experiences. Their four daughters — Victoire, Inès, Eva, and Raphaëlle — could be the future authors of Château Roquefort as each is learning how to produce and share good wine in their own way. With a strong commitment to respect for the environment, Château Roquefort was awarded Haute Valeur Environnementale in 2017, which was followed by the conversion to organic for white wines in 2021.

This white wine is crafted using 100% Sauvignon Blanc and showcases the mineral memory of the limestone terroirs where it is grown. The vineyards are located within the commune of Castelviel, which is the highest point in the Gironde, and the Sauvignon Blanc here thrives on the clay-limestone soils where fossilized oyster beds outcrop. This particular Sauvignon Blanc is from organically cultivated vines averaging 20 years old and are planted on chalky-clay soils. It was vinified by macerating the skins and undergoing a low-temperature fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats.

In Bordeaux, the 2024 growing season was an uneven and challenging vintage that featured lots of rain, which led to problems with downy mildew, coulure, and millerandage. On the bright side, white wines found great success as they delivered freshness, good concentration, and expressive aromas. The success of white wine varieties can be attributed to the less extreme temperatures of the year, along with cooler nighttime temperatures in August and September. Furthermore, vineyards on earlier-ripening sites and clay-based soils also benefitted from this low-yielding vintage. Let's see how this 2024 Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU ROQUEFORT LES ROCHES BLANCHES SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 - AOC Bordeaux, France (#35860) (XD) - $15.95
This lovely, organic Sauvignon Blanc has a restrained, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of grapefruit, lime citrus, gooseberry, and herbal aromas nuanced with stony, yeasty, leesy mineral complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium-full bodied palate with delicious grapefruit, lime citrus, herbal, gooseberry, and stony mineral replays on the flavours. It has fresh and zesty acidity, good structure, and a fine, chalky mineral textured mouthfeel. Stony minerals with grapefruit, lime citrus, and herbal notes linger on the long, balanced, and slightly chalky textured finish. Ideal with seafood, vegetarian fare, and poultry, and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other fine wines by Château Roquefort can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Urbanihof Classic Grüner Veltliner 2024 (Austria) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic Grüner Veltliner from Austria that made its debut at the LCBO in the recent March 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Weingut Urbanihof, an organic winery that has been run as a family business for over 400 years, passing down from one generation to the next. Urbanihof is located in Fels am Wagram, in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), which is Austria's largest Qualitätswein winegrowing region.

Today, Urbanihof is run by Sonja and Franz Paschinger, the 11th generation of the family. Their children — Lisa, Jakob, and Julia — are waiting in the wings as they look to manage their family's 40 hectares of organic vineyards. Lisa is a graduate of Höhere Bundeslehranstalt (HBLA) in Fruit and Viticulture in Klosterneuburg, and Jakob is currently a student in the same program at HBLA, while Julia is a wine enthusiast and aspiring lawyer.

At Urbanihof, the Paschinger family's focus is on sustainability and quality, while striving to offer their customers only the very best. They place great importance on healthy vineyards and wines that inspire, and since 2000, they have worked as naturally and gently as possible. Since 2016, Weingut Urbanihof has officially been certified organic, enabling them to achieve their ultimate goal of leaving future generations with healthy soils and ample fertile space for growth, a foundation for long-term success.

In their vineyards, which are densely planted, they deliberately keep yields low, while intensive soil and canopy management guarantee optimal ripening conditions for the grapes. One of the many sustainability initiatives at Urbanihof is that they have been producing rich manure through their own composting of horse manure and grape pomace for the past five years. They then apply this manure to their vineyards, which ensures a healthy, nutrient-rich soil.

Their vineyards in Wagram are terraced slopes that were shaped by uplift and subsidence during the last Ice Age, primarily due to storms. These terraces consist of loess – a fine, sandy loam soil – which is particularly well-suited to viticulture. The loess was deposited by windblown loess masses on the terraces formed by the ancient Danube and is now up to 30 metres thick, and beneath the loess are layers of gneiss and gravel. Loess soil has excellent water and nutrient retention capacity, an indispensable characteristic given that there is ever-decreasing rainfall. The climate in Wagram is shaped by the coolness of the Waldviertel region to the north, the mildness of the Danube Valley to the south, and the warm Pannonian winds from the east. Furthermore, Wagram experiences warm days and cool nights.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Grüner Veltliner that was organically grown on deep loess soil within the municipality of Fels am Wagram, from the DAC Wagram appellation in Niederösterreich (Lower Austria). In 2022, beginning with the 2021 vintage, Wagram became the 17th winegrowing region in Austria to be granted DAC status. The grapes underwent a cold temperature fermentation and likely matured in stainless steel, without any oak ageing.

The 2024 growing season presented many challenges and is considered a miracle vintage. Rain during early bud break and spring frosts, along with rain in early summer and in September reduced yields. By mid-June, temperatures rose and allowed the grapes to ripen on schedule and reach phenolic ripeness, with the hot temperatures continuing into September. The year favoured Grüner Veltliner, as the variety is more resistant to rain, with the resulting wines tending to be ripe, and having relatively lower acidity levels. From a smaller than usual crop, with good quality, let's see how this 2024 Grüner Veltliner from Austria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

URBANIHOF CLASSIC GRÜNER VELTLINER 2024 - DAC Wagram, Austria (#49425) (D) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic Grüner Veltliner has a lovely, deep, medium-high intensity nose featuring a ripe core of lemon citrus and yellow apple aromas accented with white peach, melon, and spice, plus hints of grapefruit and savoury earthy mineral. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is fairly dense and concentrated, with a kiss of sweetness offering ripe flavours of lemon citrus, yellow apple, spice, white peach, and melon in a slightly off-dry flavour profile. It's all supported by juicy and refreshing acidity. Savoury and dry with leesy mineral notes lingering on the long, succulent finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

One other wine by Weingut Urbanihof is coming to VINTAGES in a couple of weeks, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Praise Bistro Blanc 2024 and Bistro Rouge 2024 (Languedoc) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of delicious, vegan-friendly IGP Pays d'Oc wines from Languedoc that are brand-new arrivals at the LCBO, with both landing in-store and online in the March 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Praise Wines was founded a few years ago by sommeliers, friends, and business partners Scott Zebarth and Will Predhomme. Praise was born out of a desire to democratize wine, with the core values of quality, transparency, collaboration, sustainability, empowerment, and life-changing. In addition to making wine accessible for everyone, they wanted to go one step further and launched their Drink Better Initiative.

In today's world, access to clean water is the biggest crisis in the world, and the team at Praise believes that everyone should have access to clean water. At Praise, they are on a mission to combat the water crisis and create a positive impact through their wine brand. Praise believes that businesses can be agents of change and transform the world together. Their vision is to end water scarcity and build a sustainable future where humanity thrives in harmony with nature. With their commitment to making a difference, each bottle of Praise wine helps provide clean and safe water, an essential resource, to those in need for one year.

Praise proudly works with Water.org, who offers a portfolio of smart solutions that break down the financial barriers between people living in poverty and access to safe water and sanitation. Their unique solutions are adapted to the conditions in 11 countries across Asia, Africa, and Latin America, as they work in collaboration with their in-country partners to provide efficient and scalable solutions, while using financing as a tool to help those in need.

There are only two wines in the Praise portfolio - the Bistro Blanc and Bistro Rouge. Both wines are crafted using organically cultivated grapes that were grown in Minervois, Languedoc, and labelled as IGP Pays d'Oc wines. Additionally, both wines are vegan-friendly, sustainable HVE3 certified, and packaged with environmentally-friendly packaging.

The growing season in 2024 in Minervois experienced drought conditions for the third year in a row, along with hot (and sometimes very hot) temperatures, which led to reduced yields. The resulting wines were generally aromatic with concentrated and dense flavours. From a very good vintage in terms of quality, let's see how these two IGP Pays d'Oc wines from Languedoc are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

PRAISE BISTRO BLANC 2024 - Vegan, Sustainable, IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France (#46876) (XD) - $18.95
Blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Viognier grown in Minervios and enclosed by screw cap. The delicate, medium+ intensity nose offers ripe yellow fruit, lemon citrus, pear, and floral aromas with touches of fresh herbs and honeysuckle. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has impressive weight and concentration with flavours of ripe lemon citrus, pear, white peach, floral, and herbs, plus touches of gummy bear notes. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, along with some warmth and spice on the mid-palate. Pear and citrus notes taper to leesy minerals on the finish, with good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

PRAISE BISTRO ROUGE 2024 - Vegan, Sustainable, IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France (#46339) (D) - $18.95
100% Grenache enclosed by screw cap. The fresh, open, medium-high intensity nose is quite ripe and fruity with a fine mix of red berry, raspberry, savoury earth, and spice aromas, plus hints of white pepper and milk chocolate. On the mid-weighted palate it has fresh, juicy, and lively acidity that supports the ripe-fruited flavours of raspberry, white pepper spice, clove, and chocolate, with savoury earth undertones. It has ripe, supple tannins with a slightly gritty texture. The ripe fruit has a touch of sweetness that is masked by the high acids, which makes the wine come off as dry. Ripe raspberry, spice, and savoury earth notes linger on crisp finish, with very good length. Give it a light chill, crack open and enjoy! Score: 87+ pts

Both of these wines can also be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Casale del Giglio Bellone 2023 (Lazio) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white crafted with the indigenous and quite rare Bellone (bel-LOH-neh) varietal. It made its debut at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the March 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Casale del Giglio, a winery with roots as a wine merchant that was founded in 1914 by the Santarelli brothers - Emidio, Isidoro, and Antonio. In 1955, Dino Santarelli, son of Emidio, founded a company to bottle Lazio's classic wines, which were largely sold in Rome, but also exported abroad, including Canada.

In 1967, Dr. Berardino Santarelli, son of Antonio, established the family estate of Casale del Giglio on the unconventional land in the Agro Pontino valley, between the towns of Aprilla and Latina, about 50 km south of Rome. Since vine growing was not a tradition in this area, Dr. Santarelli and his son, Antanio, had free rein to introduce pioneering ideas, and in 1985 they planted nearly 60 different experimental varietals in the soils at Casale del Giglio. This bold and daring scheme had never been approached in such a scientific way, and their young winemaker, Paolo Tiefenthaler, was to become its leading light. Ampelographers and university researchers of the day joined them in this research project, and continue to support this effort, which is also endorsed by the Agricultural Department of Latium's Regional Government. The project aimed at identifying and maximizing the territory's potential for quality viticulture has yielded positive results, with these processes influencing other regions across the globe.

The philosophy at Casale del Giglio is based on the future of Italian viticulture relying not only on consolidating the image of its traditional wine producing zones, but on its ability to produce top-quality wines at favourable prices in areas whose potential is still relatively unexplored. As a result of Casale del Giglio's research, there are new recommended varieties that can be cultivated in the province of Latina. Casale del Giglio has 180 hectares of vines planted to the cordon trained system, while electing to plant grape varieties which have adapted well to the territory and produce quality wines.

Bellone is an Italian white wine grape variety first cited by Pliny the Elder and has been present in the Latium region of central-western Italy, near the city of Rome, and cultivated since the times of the Romans. Today, Bellone is cultivated from the Roman to the Lepini hills and in the hinterland of the coastal town of Anzio in Lazio, where the warm sandy soils tempered by a relentless sea breeze provide the ideal microclimate. Casale del Giglio's Bellone Project was launched in 2012 around the coastal town of Anzio, a choice location keeping in line with the claim of past farmers that Bellone thrives on sea air. The Bellone grape is vigorous and resistant to drought, which ensures wine quality and balance, while its plump, golden yellow, and thick-skinned grapes hang in elongated, cone-shaped bunches. Meanwhile, the persistent Tyrrhenian Sea breeze prevents over-ripening, while maintaining high concentrations of both sugar and acidity, which ultimately lead to early maturation and highlighting the wine's pronounced mineral notes.

I've had the pleasure of tasting Casale del Giglio's flagship white wine "Anthium", which is crafted with Bellone from 60-year-old vines, many times over the years and am excited to see how this entry-level Bellone compares. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested at the end of September and then macerated on the skins to encourage extraction of the aromas bestowed by the territory. It was then softly pressed and then underwent spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts for about 10–12 days at 18–20°C, and matured in bottle without the use of any oak. Let's see how this 2023 Bellone from Lazio is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASALE DEL GIGLIO BELLONE 2023 - IGT Lazio Bianco, Italy (#45845) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Bellone has a lovely, medium-high intensity nose that is open with earthy minerality and sea spray aromas layered over lemon citrus, apple, and yellow floral. It's medium-full bodied on the dry, fairly concentrated, and well-structured palate with lovely, ripe lemon citrus, apple, earthy mineral, saline, floral, and warm spice flavours in a gently honeyed profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while also having a slight mineral texture on the mid-palate. Lemon citrus and apple transition to spices, and then to saline minerals on the long, balanced, and savoury finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Casale del Giglio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Featherstone Four Feathers 2024 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, vegan-friendly, and off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) white wine blend from Niagara that is crafted with mainly Riesling. It is a VINTAGES Essentials product that was featured in Local Talent in last weekend's March 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and this vintage should be readily available at most stores.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, a boutique, eco-conscious winery that was established by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson. The name "Featherstone" is an homage to the gourmet food shop named "Feather" which specialized in poultry that they once owned, and "stone" for the stone rock face and quarry adjacent to the vineyard. Featherstone is situated in Vineland, Ontario, among the rolling hills of the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. Featherstone prides itself on its eco-friendly farming practices, which have been in place since its founding in 1999.

In 2024, amidst its 25th anniversary, Featherstone began a new chapter as it was acquired by philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal, while Louise and Dave look forward to retirement after 25 successful years. Today, the Head Winemaker at Featherstone is Kevin Qin, a graduate of the Niagara College Winery & Viticulture program. Kevin joined Featherstone in 2014 and has grown alongside the winery ever since as he started out in retail and eventually moved into cellar operations and harvest leadership, while also assisting Dave in winemaking.

The philosophy at Featherstone remains the same - as both grape growing and winemaking are both scientific and intuitive processes - the wines of Featherstone reflect the special character of the grapes, as well as the artistry of the winemaker. In the vineyard, they work through the growing season to enhance the grapes' natural attributes, and then craft wines with minimal winemaking embellishments. Their goal is to produce limited amounts of small-lot wines so that they are able to practice hands-on, artisanal wine production.

As a local leader in eco-friendly farming practices, respect for the land is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and its site. Featherstone pioneered in Niagara the employment of a small flock of sheep to naturally eat their way through the grape leaves that need to be removed from the fruiting zone on the vines, while also fertilizing the soil as they move through the vineyard. Among the many sustainable practices, Featherstone takes care of their dirt by avoiding herbicides, planting cover crops, using organic compounds to control mould and mildew, managing bugs without the use of insecticides, and switching to a recycle sprayer. In 2023, Featherstone received its Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This certified sustainable white wine is a blend of precisely 60.1% Riesling, 18.2% Pinot Grigio, 12.6% Chardonnay, and 9.1% Gewurztraminer using grapes grown across the Niagara Peninsula. The grapes were both hand- and machine-harvested from Sept. 9th to Oct. 18th. After bringing the grapes to the winery, the juice was pressed and transferred into stainless steel tanks to undergo a temperature-controlled fermentation. It also underwent eight hours of juice fining and settling, then racked off its lees.

In 2024, the growing season in Niagara had perfect conditions from early bud break to the warm and late fall that allowed for a long hang time. While there was a slight hiccup in early fall due to moisture and disease pressure from rain that affected early-ripening and thin-skinned grapes, those that picked early were able to mitigate these pressures. From an exceptional vintage with plenty of ripeness and acidity, let's see how this 2024 Riesling-based blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE FOUR FEATHERS 2024 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#341586) (D) - $15.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this blend of 60.1% Riesling, 18.2% Pinot Grigio, 12.6% Chardonnay, and 9.1% Gewurztraminer has a delicate, medium+ intensity nose of ripe peach, lemon peel, and apple with hints of honey and floral. On medium+ bodied palate it is gently off-dry with good concentration and delicious poached peach, lemon peel, apple, honey, and floral replays joined by spice notes on the flavour profile. Acids are clean and well-balanced. Finishes crisp and dry with leesy and apple notes, with good length. Chill and enjoy this easy drinking, recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Maturana Parellon Natural Semillon 2024 (Chile) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2022 Maturana Puente Austral Gran Reserva Carmenère earlier this month, tonight's wine review is another fine and unique white wine crafted with Semillon that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the March 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Maturana Winery is a family-owned boutique winery that was established in 2010 after the great earthquake in Chile by the Maturana brothers, José Ignacio and Sebastian. The brothers had a great passion for viticulture and wine, and after the earthquake they decided that there was no time to waste in pursuing their passion.

The identity of Maturana is centred around innovation, differentiation, fair price, passion, rescue of heritage strains, and quality. They use innovation to capture the essence of each variety and specific location to bring them to their fullest potential by using diverse materials such as concrete in various sizes and shapes, clay amphorae, and French oak. Because Chile's wine industry has developed in the same way for decades, in a traditional and classic manner, Maturana welcomes the opportunity to be different. While supporting the natural management of vineyards, Maturana also responsibly pays their growers at a more-than-fair price of seven times the market price per kilo. Passion is the drug that keeps Maturana motivated, along with their commitment to showcasing old vineyards in central Chile, with some vineyards dating back to 1900. At the end, their mission is to produce wines of the highest quality, while also creating something unique.

Like the 2023 Maturana Naranjo Torontel Orange Wine I enjoyed last year, this wine is also one of Maturana's unique offerings. It is crafted with 100% Semillon that was grown in old vineyards in the Colchagua Valley Coast, in Paradones area in central Chile. It is uniquely crafted with 25% of the wine remaining in contact with its grape skins for four and a half months. Furthermore, 75% of the wine was aged in third-use French oak barrels for four and a half months.

The growing season in 2024 began with a very wet winter due to El Niño, which also contributed to a cool spring in the central regions. However, the lack of any summer heat spikes allowed for slow, even ripening and higher than normal acidity levels. From a high-quality vintage, let's see how this 2024 Semillon from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MATURANA PARELLON NATURAL SEMILLON 2024 - DO Valle de Colchagua Costa, Chile (#15745) (XD) - $28.95
The medium-high intensity nose has rich and concentrated aromas of ripe lemon citrus, grapefruit, toasty vanilla, and spice with touches of blossom, honey, and leesy notes. It's medium-full bodied on the dry and slightly creamy palate with lovely honeyed, lemon citrus, floral blossom, and melon flavours with leesy, smoky, and vanilla undertones. Touch spicy on the textured mid-palate, along with juicy and succulent acids. Spice and citrus notes taper to leesy and smoky minerals on the long, crisp, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Maturana can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc 2024 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic, and vegan-friendly white wine blend crafted with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. It arrived at the LCBO in today's March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Maison Raymond, a family winery based in the commune of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, in the heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region, about 50 km southeast of Bordeaux. The roots of Maison Raymond begin in 1850 when the first generation of the Raymond family settled in the region and practiced winegrowing at Château de Lagarde.

In 1980, Jean-Pierre Raymond, the 6th generation of the family, took over the business and converted 100% of the family farm to wine production. In total, Jean-Pierre converted 30 hectares of crops exclusively into vineyard land, a number which grew as he expanded Château de Lagarde to 260 hectares of mixed farming across the communes of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Felix, and Saint-Martial.

Organic farming at Maison Raymond was introduced when Lionel Raymond, son of Jean-Pierre, joined the family business in 2000. Lionel expanded the vineyard area at the estate from 70 hectares to 180 hectares, while also acquiring new (and organic) properties. As Lionel had strong respect for the environment and terroir, he was convinced that organic was the way to move forward and proceeded to convert all 130 hectares of vines at Maison Raymond to organic viticulture. As a result, the Raymond family was one of the very first in Bordeaux to convert their entire estate to organic farming, with a firm commitment to sustainability and soil health. As a pioneer and visionary with nearly 250 hectares of certified organic vineyards, Maison Raymond is now the largest independent organic winery in France.

The winemaking philosophy at Raymond is based upon a relentless pursuit of quality and innovation, a set of values that have been passed down through the generations to produce exceptional and authentic wines. In 2010, the Lagarde wine cellar was completely renovated and features over 6000 m² of state-of-the-art equipment. As the largest sustainable wine development project at the time, they also installed 2500 m² of photovoltaic panels on the roof to generate renewable electricity.

I've enjoyed previous vintages of this white wine, including most recently the 2022 Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc a couple of years ago. It is produced using a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sémillon. The grapes were grown organically on hillside sites within the commune of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, on clay-limestone soil with gravels. The vineyard experiences a mild climate due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, and also receives lots of sunshine and regular rainfall. The vines were trained using Bordeaux tradition of the double Guyot system, which also helps the grapes reach maturity and avoid phytosanitary disease. It was traditionally vinified in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, without any oak ageing.

The 2024 growing season in Bordeaux was an uneven and challenging vintage that featured rain, rain, and more rain, which led to problems with downy mildew, coulure, and millerandage. However, white wines found great success and consistency in this challenging vintage with freshness, good concentration, and expressive aromas. White wine varieties benefitted from the less extreme temperatures of the year and cooler nighttime temperatures in August and September. Vineyards on earlier-ripening sites and clay-based soils also benefitted from this low-yielding vintage. From a good vintage for white wines in Bordeaux, let's see how this 2024 Bordeaux Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES HAUTS DE LAGARDE BLANC 2024 - Vegan, AOC Bordeaux, France (#387787) (XD) - $19.95
Equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, this organic white wine has a delicate, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers attractively ripe and gently honeyed aromas of lemon peel, citrus, yellow apple, quince, and hay with touches of white floral. On dry, medium-full bodied palate it is impressively dense and concentrated with delicious citrus, yellow apple, waxy, and quince flavours in a slightly tart profile, plus white floral and leesy minerals adding a pleasant savoury component. Acids are juicy and fresh. With a nicely textured mouthfeel, the citrus and orchard fruit notes taper to savoury, leesy minerals, plus a touch of dried spice on the long and juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy with seafood, salad, creamy cheeses, or poultry. Score: 89 pts

One other wine by Maison Raymond is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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