Eradus Pinot Gris 2024 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, dry Pinot Gris from the Awatere Valley in Marlborough that was featured as part of the thematic on wines from the Southern Hemisphere in last weekend's February 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Eradus Wines, a small, family-owned winery that was established by Har and Sophie Eradus, a couple who had emigrated from Holland in 1982 and grew flowers in Auckland. The couple embarked on a semi-retirement project in the 1990s and settled on an extraordinary footprint of land at the edge of the Awatere River, in the Awatere Valley of Marlborough, to grow grapes. At the time, this dryland was sheep country with only a few pioneering winegrowers.

The couple's connection to this land seemed fated when Sophie cleared a shed on the property and found an old potbelly door with an embossed logo that entwined their initials - "H", "S" and "E" - which inspired the Eradus logo. The couple's imagination was captured by this sliver of land that was nestled between a higher terrace and the glacial river below, with its guarding boundary of gnarled old macrocarpa cypress trees. From the beginning, Har and Sophie desired to have the unique and untameable terroir of the Awatere Valley express itself through their vines, grapes, and ultimately, the wines.

In 2004, Michiel, son of Har and Sophie, and his Kiwi wife, Hanna, took over the family business with a commitment to celebrating the unique terroir of this place. Their philosophy is based upon bending to nature and letting the Awatere Valley imprint itself upon every Eradus wine.

Eradus' piece of land has a unique mesoclimate that is truly cool-climate viticulture. To the east is the Pacific Ocean, a windswept stretch of blue which influences diurnal temperatures. To the south is towering Mount Tapuae-o-uenuku, while on the western horizon are sun-bleached high country hills. In between, on a sliver of terrace at the edge of a river, Eradus grows wines that encapsulate this extraordinary place. The windier nature of this area naturally protects their vines from disease. The area is also drier with a harsh sun, cool winds, and rocky soils that ensure small berries with concentrated flavours. The vine's roots dig deep into the rocky terrace, four metres above the mountain-fed Awatere River, to create wines of minerality and crisp, clean acidity.

Like other wines in the Eradus portfolio, including the lovely 2023 Eradus Pinot Noir I enjoyed last year, this white wine is also a single vineyard that was grown on the estate in the Awatere Valley. Crafted with 100% Pinot Gris from 19-year-old vines that are grown on a slender terrace at the edge of the Awatere River, on alluvial and river stone soils. With a unique microclimate and soil structure that is influenced by a fault line, a river, and the power of the nearby Pacific Ocean, their land is stony, dry, windy, and cool, elements which create wines of elegance and minerality with a lively and lingering finish.

The 2024 vintage in New Zealand is widely considered to be the best in living memory. The growing season began with unpredictable weather, including during budburst and flowering, but then settled down without any extreme weather. Summer was warm and dry, which created drought conditions for most of the country. However, temperatures during summer never got intensely hot, while autumn brought cooler weather, which helped cool the grapes and retain acidity and aromatics, and also extended the harvest season. Although yields were down in most of the country, the results were brilliant with clean and fresh fruit. From an exceptional vintage, let's see how this 2024 Pinot Gris from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ERADUS PINOT GRIS 2024 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#439000) (XD) - $21.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this single vineyard Pinot Gris underwent fermentation and ageing in both stainless steel and barrel. Fresh, crisp, and clean medium-high intensity nose delivers ripe citrus, lemon pith, pear, stone fruits, white peach, and melon aromas with hints of leesy mineral. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with a lovely textural mouthfeel and flavours of zesty lemon citrus, pear, melon, and white peach alongside spice notes and touches of stony minerals. It has a fresh and zesty acidity, while citrus and grapefruit notes taper to savoury and stony minerals on the long, dry, crisp, and textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

One other wine by Eradus is readily available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2023 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of an excellent Premier Cru Chablis from Burgundy that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the February 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small, family-owned winery situated in the Chablis wine region of Burgundy. Originally from the commune of Maligny, in Chablis, the Vocoret family of winemakers is inscribed in the history of vine cultivation and winemaking in the heart of their vineyard since 1713.

The story of the family begins with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul no doubt guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, and the nobility and passion for craftmanship in winemaking to his descendants. Born in 1863, it was Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, the great, great-grandfather of Yvon, who contributed to the renaming of the Domaine when he only had a few acres of vines and small barrels in the cellar.

Born in 1895, it was Yvon's grandparents, Henri and Louise Vocoret, who, despite the suffering during WWI, managed to make the land prosper with the help of their horses, their pride and joy, to produce excellent wine. Next were Maurice and Huguette Vocoret, the parents of Yvon who, hand-in-hand, carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and invested in high-performing and efficient equipment for the cellar. Maurice and Huguette anticipated that with these improvements, the quality of their wines would gain recognition and respect, and since that time, the Domaine has maintained its reputation for producing high quality wines.

Today, the Domaine is in the hands of Yvon Vocoret and his son, Laurent, the fifth and sixth generations of the family, respectively. Additionally, the spouses Christine (wife of Yvon) and Clémentine (wife of Laurent) are also involved in the family business. Together, they have the same motivation as their ancestors and are grateful and respectful, as they continue to write the story of a humble, but determined, family of winegrowers. By using the same principles as generations that came before them, the Vocoret family produces wines with expertise and passion. With respect for the soil and grapes, the winery works with small volumes, thereby allowing each of their plots to express itself. The current generation of the Vocoret family upholds their family motto of quality, dignity, and respect.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in Fourchaume, the largest and one of the best known Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The vines average 40 years old and are planted on clayey-gravelly soil resulting from Kimmeridgian limestone on marls, along with pebbles of marly limestone with a slightly whitish appearance. With respect for the environment, the family has been farming this vineyard organically since 1974. By 2005 they eliminated the use of anti-botrytis treatments, and by 2009 they stopped using chemical herbicides, and have been practicing sustainable farming for the last 17 years.

To craft this Chardonnay while respecting the character of the vintage, each plot of grapes was harvested at full maturity using both manual and mechanical methods. It was vinified by using the purest and simplest traditions that the family has been applying for five generations. It underwent a very light static settling to retain enough fine lees so that alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can proceed naturally. The wine was aged for 9 months in stainless steel tanks to obtain freshness and character.

In 2023, the season began with a very warm January, followed by average temperatures in February and March, and then a cooler-than-normal April, with enormously varied rainfall amounts during these months. May was also cooler than the long-term average, but warmed up at the end of the month, just in time for flowering and setting the stage for a large crop. June was warmer and drier than usual, while July saw normal rainfall, but was on the cool side, and by early August Chablis was facing drought conditions. August ended with storms and very warm weather, with the warm weather persisting into September and into an early and successful harvest. The extremely good 2023 vintage produced a large crop with wines that are ripe, lush, balanced, and juicy.

After enjoying the excellent 2021 Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru nearly three years ago, let's see how this 2023 Chablis 1er Cru from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2023 - AOC, Burgundy, France (#22776) (XD) - $58.95
Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, this has an elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that feels a bit shy, offering significant flinty and stony mineral aromas layered over rich lemon citrus, golden apple, and pear, plus touches of yellow floral. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is richly concentrated and dense with lovely flinty, stony, and saline mineral flavours alongside lemon citrus, golden apple, and pear, plus touches of floral. Exceptionally well-balanced with fine, succulent acidity. Gentle spice notes on the mid-palate, while the stony, flinty, apple, and lemon citrus notes carry through to the exceptionally long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret can be purchased through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Atrevida Chardonnay 2023 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, unoaked Chardonnay from Argentina that landed at the LCBO as a brand-new arrival in last month's January 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Atrevida, which translates to "daring" in English, is a range of wines from Argentina produced by Manos Negras for the export market. Manos Negras is one of a number of winery projects owned by Mil Suelos, a project that began as a collaboration in the early 2010s between three Argentine wine professionals - Alejandro Sejanovich, Jeff Mausbach, and Jorge Crotta.

Today, the founders of Mil Suelos remain with the company as they make wine, experiment, taste, share, and above all, express places. Their philosophy is based on the belief that every wine should reflect the site where it is born, because it is the soil that gives it identity. They strive to capture the essence of each place through its land, while also exploring how each soil type imparts its character to the vine and, ultimately, to the wine. Moreover, it is the connection between soil, vine, and wine where the true expression of place is found, thus allowing each bottle to tell its own story of origin. At Mil Suelos, every wine is born from a unique terroir using grapes from their own vineyards or those from winegrowers who they have worked with for many years.

Born and raised in Mendoza, Alejandro is a viticulturalist and winemaker with experience working in some of Argentina's finest vineyards. He explores the relationship between the soil and vine to enhance the identity of each terroir and transform it into fine wine. Jeff arrived in Mendoza from the American Midwest in the 1990s and has a deep passion for the world of winemaking. As commercial director at Mil Suelos, Jeff has worked tirelessly to develop international markets and share his love for Argentine wine across the globe. As an educator and marketer born in Mendoza, Jorge has dedicated his career to promoting Argentine wine worldwide with passion and professionalism.

While there isn't very much info published about the brand, the range of Atrevida wines are daring, bold, adventurous, and represent the passionate spirit of Argentina. The brand has existed for about 15 years and offers a unique combination of Old World European elegance with a spicy Latin twist as Argentine culture is animated and passionate.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in high altitude vineyards at 3,500 feet in the Uco Valley of Mendoza. The vineyards are nestled in the foothills of the mighty Andes and planted on well-drained alluvial soils, with a combination of stones rich with limestone, sand, gravel, and silt. The cool, sunny days produce fruit with bright green apple and pear flavours, while the cold mountain nights result in a fresh and crisp texture. The grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation for 12 days in stainless steel tanks, and without malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and did not see any time in oak.

With recent years in Argentina influenced by La Niña, which left the country in a state of drought, including the winter months which were unnaturally dry but with some polar influences, the 2023 growing season turned out to be a roller coaster of a vintage. It began with spring frosts that attacked nascent buds during budburst, which massively cut yields in parts of the country. Once the icy frosts receded, the season settled into warm and dry days, followed by a summer that was among the hottest and driest in years, which resulted in the grapes ripening very quickly. Vineyards situated at high-altitudes - such as those where this Chardonnay is from - benefitted from great diurnal temperature variation between hot days and cool nights, which allowed the grapes to retain acidity and aromatics. Due to the heat, the harvest was relatively early. From a good vintage with reduced quantity, let's see how this 2023 unoaked Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ATREVIDA CHARDONNAY 2023 - Vegan, Mendoza, Argentina (#46402) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this unoaked Chardonnay has a medium+ intensity nose of ripe apple and pear aromas joined by lemon citrus, plus whiffs of tropical fruit and flinty-leesy minerals, earthy, and a hint of dough adding a savoury component. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it offers delicious more ripe apple, pear, lemon citrus, plus some peach and spice notes. It has crisp and bracing acidity, while lemon citrus notes taper to flinty-leesy minerals on the savoury finish, with very good length. Chill well and enjoy this recommended buy tonight with seafood or poultry. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines from the Atrevida portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Kacaba Reserve Riesling 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Ahead of International Riesling Day, which is now less than a month away on March 13th, tonight's white wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly, and off-dry Riesling from Niagara-on-the-Lake that arrived at the LCBO in last month's January 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

From the same producer as the excellent 2021 Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah I enjoyed late last year, this white wine is produced by Kacaba Vineyards & Winery, a small-batch, premium wine producer situated in the community of Vineland, within the Town of Lincoln in the Niagara Region of Ontario. It was established in 1997 by Michael Kacaba, a Bay St. lawyer in Toronto of Ukrainian descent and a Saskatchewan background, on land that was slated to be a subdivision. However, Mr. Kacaba had another vision for this land and began the work to establish a vineyard and winery, and in 1999 Kacaba had their first vintage, with consistent success following soon thereafter.

While Mr. Kacaba is no longer the owner of the winery, his philosophy remains the same - focus on smaller batch sizes to produce wines of merit. Kacaba wines are produced using only the finest grapes grown on the estate or from partnered grape growers from surrounding vineyards. Their philosophy is dependent upon small quantities because their production is limited by their ability to handle and manage quantities that can be produced mainly by hand. Pumping is kept to a minimum and gravity is used for bottling and racking. Interestingly, their simple methodology is implemented by lifting their tanks and barrels with a forklift. While their goal is to produce ultra-premium wines, it is also a necessity for them to produce moderately priced wines to ensure the business is economically sustainable. Kacaba also strives to encourage sustainable agriculture, which involves not only good husbandry of their lands, but also the proposition that agriculture is a valuable resource and ought to be maintained for future generations.

I enjoyed the 2017 Kacaba Reserve Riesling a couple of years ago, and while that wine was sourced from grapes grown on the Niagara Escarpment, for this particular vintage the grapes are from the Niagara Lakeshore sub-appellation in the warmer Niagara-on-the-Lake.

The grapes for this Riesling were carefully tended to along the lakeshore in Niagara-on-the-Lake and left to hang into November in order to concentrate the flavours and allow the acidity to come down on the vine. After picking the grapes overnight on November 2nd, while temperatures were low, the grapes were brought to the winery and immediately pressed upon arrival in the morning. The juice was settled at a very low temperature for 48 hours prior to racking, then allowed to warm up for a long, cool fermentation at approximately 13°C to allow tropical fruit and mineral notes to emerge. After 18 days, fermentation was arrested, leaving some remaining residual grape sugars to add further complexity and balance to the wine. The wine then rested in stainless steel tanks for 7 months, until it was bottled in June 2024.

The growing season in 2023 in Niagara was saved by a dry and warm fall that provided relief from the wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer. While harvest was behind by up to almost three weeks, most varieties came out the other side in good shape and produced a bountiful crop. For Riesling, the warm days and cool nights prior to harvest were the perfect conditions to develop vibrant fruit and juicy acidity, which should allow Riesling wines to age gracefully for many years. From a superb vintage for this noble grape, let's see how this 2023 Riesling from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KACABA RESERVE RIESLING 2023 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#404087) (D) - $24.15
Enclosed by screw cap, the lovely, fragrant, medium-high to highly aromatic nose delivers an attractive mix of petrol, wet stone, white peach, and floral aromas nuanced with lemon oil, stone fruit, apple, and bees wax complexity. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate has very good structure and a gently off-dry flavour profile of lemon oil, citrus, wet stone, leesy mineral, grapefruit, white peach, and apple flavours, plus a mild spice note. It has crisp, structured, and juicy acidity, while peach and lemon notes taper to leesy and wet stone flavours on the long, dry, and juicy finish. An elevated experience that will continue to provide pleasure into the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

A few wines by Kacaba are readily available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery online and in Niagara.

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Le Garenne Chenin Blanc 2024 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, dry Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley that landed at the LCBO as a brand-new arrival in last month's January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Le Garenne, a modern and relatively new wine brand that was established around the beginning of the decade. The brand focuses on wines from the Loire Valley, which is often called the "Garden of France" because of its noble landscapes.

The Loire Valley is defined by the Loire River, which is France's longest river that stretches nearly 1,000 km from east to west, crossing five different regions from the Ardèche in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region to the Atlantic Ocean in the west. The Loire region has always been recognized for its perfect climate and diversified soils for quality viticulture going back to the times of the Roman Empire. Given its northerly location and the substance and vitality of the river, the well-adjusted climate and soil composition in the Loire Valley is conducive to producing beautifully refined, and concentrated wines made with Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Grolleau, and Pinot Noir.

At Le Garenne, the focus is to create sustainable wines that are both good for your taste buds and nature. Sustainable winegrowing is very important value for Le Garenne as it carries a comprehensive set of practices that are environmentally sound, socially equitable and economically viable. With 25% of the vineyards in the Loire farmed using sustainable agriculture, Le Garenne carefully selects the winegrowers and vintners they choose to work with, ensuring that the grapes come from sustainable family farms and of high-quality. Sustainable vineyard and winery practices involve conservation of water and energy, maintaining healthy soils while protecting air and water quality, enhancing relations with employees and communities, preserving local ecosystems and wildlife habitat, and improving the economic vitality of vineyards and wineries. The goal of Le Garenne is to give consumers a Super Premium, healthy, and authentic experience at an affordable price.

This white wine is from La Garenne's Premium range of entry-level wines. It is crafted using 100% Chenin Blanc from vineyards located mostly surrounding the villages of Le Puy Notre Dame and Le Vaudelnay, on the left bank of the Loire River in Saumur. The vines are planted on calcareous and clay soils, with south-southwest exposure to the sun. The average age of the vines is 45 years old, which naturally limits yields and provides great concentration and depth in the wine. The grape must was slowly pressed and selected during the pressing phase. It underwent a temperature-controlled, alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for nearly 8 weeks in order to develop the aromas.

The growing season in 2024 in the Loire Valley was a uniformly difficult vintage that began very mild and very wet. May was a constant struggle against mildew, along with cool and wet weather during flowering meant poor flower set and grape development, which cut yields further. Weather conditions in the Loire only modestly improved in August. If there is a bright spot in this difficult vintage, it's that white wine varietals in the zones of Anjou and Saumur suffered less than other regions in the Loire, and produced wines that retained their aromatic freshness. From a difficult vintage, let's see how this 2024 Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE GARENNE CHENIN BLANC 2024 - Loire Valley, France (#47327) (XD) - $18.95
Fresh and elegant, the lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers attractive, ripe lemon citrus, apple, stony mineral, and yellow floral aromas, plus hints of honeysuckle and orange peel adding further interest. The dry, mid-weighted palate has lemon citrus, apple, orange peel, and yellow floral flavours in a slightly tart profile. It's supported by juicy acidity, while the lemon citrus and apple notes taper to stony-leesy minerals on the juicy finish, with very good length. Only 10.5% abv. Recommended buy to enjoy with seafood or poultry. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by La Garenne can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Spy Valley E Block Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, certified sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Waihopai Valley in Marlborough. It arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Spy Valley Wines, a family-owned winery located deep in the Waihopai Valley, within the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. It was established by Bryan and Jan Johnson in 1993, during a time of discovery and courage in Marlborough when it was thought that the area was too hard, too dry, and too unfertile for winegrowing. The Johnson couple had the audacity and passion for the land to establish 180 hectares of estate vineyards, and with a pioneering spirit, Spy Valley would go on to become one of New Zealand's most successful family-run wineries.

The name "Spy Valley" is inspired by the winery's proximity to a government communications facility that is often referred to as a spy base. As Bryan and Jan stepped away from the winery, it was their daughter, Amanda Johnson, who took over and became Managing Director of Spy Valley. As the daughter of the founding family, Amanda has Spy Valley in her blood. She is passionate about looking after the land and for future generations, and knows how crucial sustainability is to both Spy Valley and the wine industry.

Sustainability has been a core value at Spy Valley since the winery's founding. They know that when you work on land as exceptional as this, you protect it. Spy Valley also knows that their environment is one of the many secrets to their success, as it has sustained generations, and it is their job to nurture it for many more. Since 1999, Spy Valley has been proudly accredited under the New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing scheme, which promotes economically and environmentally sustainable vineyard management. Spy Valley proudly was one of Marlborough's first wineries to be certified under this program.

Spy Valley has several ranges of wines in their portfolio, and this white wine is from their Block Range. The Block Range is a refined and complex range of wines that are crafted using grapes from unique single blocks on their estate, which were selected for their flavour and structure. One can expect wines from the Block Range to deliver terroir, typicity, and an element of craft.

This particular white wine is from Spy Valley's Block Range and is crafted using 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown on the estate in Waihopai Valley, where the geology is stony, seismic, and on an ancient glacial riverbed, and the soil is composed of alluvial stony silt loams. The viticulturalist was Adam McCone, and winemakers were Wendy Stuckey and Emily Gaspard-Clark. The grapes were harvested at peak flavour maturity from their E Block Vineyard Block in the Waihopai Valley. It underwent gentle juice extraction, and was cold settled and fermented in a combination of 80% in stainless steel tanks and 20% in French oak barrels, with a range of aromatic yeasts. The wine remained on its fine yeast lees for 6 months before blending and bottling.

The growing season in Waihopai Valley experienced an excellent flowering period and consistent rainfall, which resulted in even crops and healthy canopies. The weather leading up to harvest was slightly cooler than recent years, which meant that the start of harvest was a bit later and allowed the fruit to get extra "hang time" and develop more flavours across all varieties. While the crop was slightly smaller than the previous bumper crop season, the fruit was perfectly ripened during the steady, low-stress harvest. At Spy Valley, the 2023 growing season was a great success with a year of collaboration, innovation, and exceptional quality. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Waihopai Valley in Marlborough, New Zealand, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SPY VALLEY E BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#36874) (XD) - $21.95
The fragrant, highly aromatic nose wafts of limey citrus, gooseberry, white peach, and leesy mineral aromas nuanced with grapefruit, lemon citrus, guava, passion fruit, green herb, and spice notes. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with good density and concentration and delivers ripe, lime/lemon citrus, grapefruit, floral, gooseberry, white peach, and guava flavours, plus notions leesy mineral, spice, and green herb, all supported by fresh and creamy acidity. It's well-balanced throughout with citrus and tropical fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, fresh, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Spy Valley are available (some in small quantities) at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cave de Lugny Mâcon-Chardonnay 2023 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this lovely, certified sustainable Chardonnay from the Mâconnais wine region of Burgundy. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving as part of last month's December 20 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cave de Lugny, a historically significant co-operative winery situated in the Mâconnais wine district of Burgundy. While the roots of Cave de Lugny date back to the 18th century, it was officially founded in 1927 on the backs of wines that were produced from the famous vineyards of Saint Pierre, Les Crêts, and La Grande Vigne, and was the second wine co-operative that was established in the Mâconnais, only one year after the establishment of the co-operative Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé.

With shared common values and interests, the two wine co-operatives merged in 1966, but maintained their own production sites. The combined group invested in their facilities, including the installation of packaging facilities in 1970 at both sites, and all the production of red wines was moved to Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé, while all the white wines were produced at Lugny. In 1987, the group's long name was shortened to "Cave de Lugny", and in 1994 they were joined by a third wine co-operative - Cave de Chardonnay.

Today, Cave de Lugny is firmly rooted in the Mâconnais countryside and is proud of its origins and history, which have made it a specialist in Southern Burgundy wines. The winery is forward-thinking and seeks to grow by producing not only quality wines, but also by improving the quality of working conditions. The three wineries of Cave de Lugny each have their own specialization. The winery in Chardonnay is dedicated to the production of sparkling wines, while the winery in Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé mainly vinifies red wines. At Lugny, they vinify and age white wines, as well as handle packaging and shipping for all three wineries.

When the co-operative was initially founded, it consisted of 116 wine growers, a number that grew three years later to 180, and today that number exceeds 400 members. Together, the members of Cave de Lugny are masters of the land, proud of their craft, and share a love of their vineyards. The growers, some of whom are several generations old, are united and determined, creative and innovative, and represent a veritable raw talent which plays a crucial role in the development of the local area, the conservation of the environment, and the preservation of the region's rural activity. The wines of Cave de Lugny are produced with protected designations of origin, which build a reputation over the long term. Since 2014, Cave de Lugny has been an approved and certified member of Sustainable Winegrowing.

This particular white wine was formerly known as a Grand Reserve and came to us as a brand-new label. It is crafted with 100% Chardonnay grapes that were grown in the appellation of Mâcon-Chardonnay. The village of Chardonnay is situated in the northern part of the Mâconnais region, and the vines are grown on the slopes of two valleys: on the one side, on the northernmost extension of the hillside of Lugny along to the village of Ozenay, and on the other, between Chardonnay and the hills looking down over Tournus.

Historically, this ancient settlement was founded by the Romans and known as Cardonacum, which became Chardonnay over time. With architectural heritage artifacts, the area was known to practice winegrowing and for its dedication to transforming grapes. Towards the end of the 18th century, the village made a name for itself by producing white wines from the famous varietal, which at the time was known by many different names. In 1860, when Dr. Jules Guyot visited Baron d'Empire Chapuis-Montlaville’s property, he saw "Chardennets" plants that were more than 80 years old, and gradually the name of the village became intertwined with the grape variety.

For this Chardonnay, the 80 hectares of vines average over 30 years old and are planted on south-southeast facing slopes, on shallow soils made of limestone. To vinify this wine, the grapes were mechanically harvested and pressed in a pneumatic press. It underwent alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature of between 16°C and 18°C, followed by complete malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured on its lees in stainless steel vats and then bottled.

The 2023 growing season in Burgundy provided an abundance of both quantity and quality. A relatively benign winter turned into a tumultuous spring which featured both unseasonably warm and chilly days. This delayed budbreak, but avoided any spring frosts. Summer eventually arrived, along with some thunderstorms, which created humid conditions and meant that growers had to be vigilant in monitoring disease in the vineyard. Conditions leading up to harvest were balmy, followed by very good weather during harvest. The latent summer heat resulted in rich, aromatic, and fruit-driven wines. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Mâconnais, Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVE DE LUGNY MÂCON-CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, AOC, Burgundy, France (#45272) (XD) - $23.95
This 100% unoaked Chardonnay has lovely, richly elegant aromas of medium-high intensity rising out of the glass with notes of lemon citrus, flinty-leesy mineral, apple, pear, and white flower, plus accents of white peach. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is lightly honeyed with apple, pear, citrus, spice, and white flower flavours nuanced with leesy minerals. It has fresh and lively acidity, with a juicy mid-palate, and a finely textured mouthfeel. Apple, pear, and citrus notes give way to spice and leesy-flinty minerals on the long, crisp, and well-balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A pair of lovely wines by Cave de Lugny are readily available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Trilogy Wine Merchants.

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Torbreck Woodcutter's Semillon 2024 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Happy New Year! To start off 2026, tonight's white wine review is an excellent Semillon from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It arrived at the LCBO - along with its companion Shiraz - late last year in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both are readily available for purchase today.

It is produced by Torbreck Vintners, a wine producer that was established in the Barossa Valley by David Powell in 1994. The winery is named after a forest in Scotland where David worked as a lumberjack. Mr. Powell gained his winemaking experience at various Barossa wineries and was inspired to create his own label. He began to share-farm vineyards in order to obtain fruit from some of the Barossa Valley's very best vineyards. Torbreck takes its inspiration from France's Rhône Valley, while championing the rich viticultural heritage of the Barossa.

In 2008, Pete and Terri Kight entered into a partnership with Torbreck and eventually took over the business in 2013. Today, proprietors Pete and Terri are dedicated to establishing Torbreck among the world's leading wine producers. They remain focused on this journey by staying true to their core vision, rather than following trends or fashions. With provenance at its heart, the Barossa and its Mediterranean climate and 175 years of winemaking heritage provide an extraordinary foundation for Torbreck wines. While they have achieved much over the first three decades, their journey is far from complete as they continue to look forward.

Torbreck sources fruit from some of the finest vineyards in the Barossa, and they constantly seek to understand the difference between all of these special places. Moreover, they seek to understand how the fruit reacts to the seasons and how this combination of soil and climate and farming experience is reflected in unique grape flavours. This requires patience, as well as a gentle hand in the winemaking process. Torbreck respects the vineyard and the wine, as they are simply custodians. Led by General Manager and Chief Winemaker Ian Hongell, the team of experienced winemakers and viticulturists bring a deep understanding of the region's terroir and expertise to ensure that every bottle of wine reflects the artistry, intensity, and elegance for which Torbreck is renowned.

Semillon has always found a natural home in the Barossa, going back to when it was first planted by settlers around 160 years ago. It has succeeded in this area due to the Mediterranean climate and careful farming, to create a heritage of old, low-yielding Semillon vineyards. The Semillon for this wine is exclusively the age-old, robust, and pink-skinned Madeira clone, which is found mainly in the Barossa.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Semillon that was grown in the sub-regions of Rowland Flat, Ebenezer, and Lyndoch, within the Barossa Valley. The grapes were harvested throughout the month of February and traditionally vinified. The wine was matured for 3 months, with 60% in stainless steel tank and the remainder in seasoned French barrique. The resulting wine is reminiscent of the savoury white wines found in the central and southern regions of France.

The 2024 vintage in Barossa saw timely spring rainfall and calm conditions for flowering and fruit set. An idyllic summer featured mild to warm temperatures, which propelled even growth and fruit development. While yields were variable and below average, the quality is exceptional across the board. Let's see how this 2024 Semillon from the Barossa Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TORBRECK WOODCUTTER'S SEMILLON 2024 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#927541) (XD) - $29.95
Screw cap enclosure. The restrained, medium+ intensity nose delivers attractive lemon citrus, white floral, and garden herb aromas accented with leesy minerals and a touch of spice. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is well-structured and ripe with lovely lemon citrus, grapefruit, white floral flavours joined by straw, paraffin, waxy, earthy mineral, and spice accents adding complexity. It has clean, crisp, and refreshing acidity, while the well-structured mid-palate is crisp with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Spice and lemon citrus notes taper to savoury minerals on the crisp, and very long finish. Very youthful at this stage, this will gain further complexity and interest as it ages over the next dozen years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Quite a few wines by Torbreck are available on the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2024 and Hedgehog Single Vineyard Xinomavro 2022 (Greece) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, vegan-friendly wines from Greece that arrived at the LCBO last month. The Xinomavro arrived in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Malagouzia arrived in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both wines are readily available across Ontario.

Both of these wines are produced by Alpha Estate, a highly-regarded winery situated in the Amyndeon region of Florina, in Northwestern Macedonia of Greece. It was established in 1997 by experienced viticulturist Makis Mavridis, and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis. They gained many years of experience and had passion in their respective fields before becoming business partners and creating their own wines from vineyards planted in Amyndeon.

The modern winery of Alpha Estate is now run by the next generation of the families, Angeliki Iatridou and Emorfili Mavridou, daughters of Angelos and Makis. Together, they carry on the knowledge and passion for winemaking, while respecting tradition and evolving to participate in Alpha Estate's common vision. With a 220-hectare privately-owned vineyard with a unique ecosystem situated in Amyndeon, they respect nature and use the most recent international standards in eco-friendly and sustainable farming practices and winemaking. The soul of their work is the team of people that contribute every day to the dream, to craft wines with professional know-how and experience throughout each stage, from vineyard to production to promotion.

Alpha Estate's winemaking facility is located at the heart of the vineyard, thereby allowing the grapes to arrive at the winery upon harvesting in the shortest amount of time. Furthermore, the grapes are harvested during the coolest hours of the day and transported to the winery in special refrigerators, which allows the grapes' organoleptic characteristics to be protected and shows the great respect that Alpha Estate has for grapes. The modern winemaking facility was designed to allow the grapes to move throughout the winery by using gravity, which allows for minimum possible stress on the raw material. The winery was constructed in the mid-2000s using highly inactive and neutral materials in order to create a completely neutral atmospheric condition inside the winery, which helps protect the quality of the grape, must, and wine.

This Malagouzia was grown in their Turtles vineyard, on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia, and named "Turtles" because freshwater turtles are commonly found in the nearby lakes and wetlands. The privately-owned 220-hectare vineyard is situated at 620–710 metres above sea level, which is among the highest vineyards in Greece, and planted on sandy – sandy clay soil over limestone, with excellent drainage. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested on September 14th, destemmed, and optically sorted. After undergoing light crushing, the grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, with skin contact. The wine remained in contact with its fine lees for 2 months, with regular stirring.

The Xinomavro was grown by Alpha Estate's founder, Makis Mavridis, and crafted by winemaker Angelos Iatridis. The grapes were grown at Mavridis' privately-owned Hedgehog vineyard on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia. The vineyard is named "Hedgehog" because of the hedgehogs that are commonly found in the area, and is planted between 620–710 metres above sea level, with northern exposure to the sun and facing Lake Petron and Mount Voras. The grapes were brought to the winery and destemmed. Without crushing, the grapes were cold-soaked with skin contact, and underwent alcoholic fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures while maintaining contact sue lie for 8 months, with regular stirring. It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by maturation in bottle for 12 months.

Let's see how these two fantastic wines from Northwestern Macedonia in Greece are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ALPHA ESTATE TURTLES SINGLE VINEYARD MALAGOUZIA 2024 - Vegan, PGI Florina, Greece (#32161) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Malagouzia has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers an elegant mix of leesy, limestone mineral, lemon citrus, and grapefruit aromas flecked with spring flowers, herbs, peach, and tropical fruit. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is dense and impressively structured with crunchy lemon citrus, stony mineral, spice, grapefruit, and herbal flavours nuanced with peach and floral notes. It has crisp, lively, and well-structured acidity, along with a fine, gently chalky textured mouthfeel. Juicy with lemon citrus notes tapering to stony and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG SINGLE VINEYARD XINOMAVRO 2022 - Vegan, PDO Amyndeon, Greece (#259762) (XD) - $29.95
Clean and open, this has a medium-high intensity nose of tomato leaf mingling red cherry, dried rose floral, savoury earth, mineral, licorice, and sandalwood aromas that pleasantly evolve in the glass. The mid-weighted palate is dry and gently spicy with ripe red fruited notes of plum, cherry, tomato leaf, licorice, dried rose floral layered over savoury earth and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, juicy, and lemony acidity, while the supple, textured tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. The tomato and red fruit notes give way to savoury and earthy minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alpha Estate are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Inniskillin 50th Anniversary Single Vineyard Wines (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a trio of exceptional wines that were launched this past summer by Inniskillin Wines to celebrate their 50th anniversary. As they celebrated their first 50 years of excellence with great pride, they are also looking forward to the next 50 years, which promises to be even more exciting. This excitement is fuelled by Canadian innovation and the launch of a series of new, premium wines to elevate your table.

The first 50 years at Inniskillin began when it was granted the first winery licence since prohibition in 1975 to become Canada's first estate winery. It was established by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, two friends and business partners who became instant pioneers in Canadian winemaking after taking big risks and earning many firsts in the Canadian wine history. Karl was the Head Winemaker and helped develop Inniskillin's reputation for over 30 years before eventually stepping away from the project in 2006.

In 2007, Bruce Nicholson assumed the role of senior winemaker at Inniskillin in Niagara. Bruce had previously spent approximately 20 years working in the Okanagan Valley before returning to Niagara to provide leadership and ensuring that Inniskillin continued to excel.

In 2013, Nicholas Gizuk joined Inniskillin and rose up through the ranks within the company to become Head Winemaker at Inniskillin's Niagara Estate in 2001. Nicholas is part of a new generation of winemakers that stand on the shoulders of Donald and Karl. This new generation of winemakers are using the success of the last 50 years as the foundation for what’s next and believe that the next chapter will be even more exciting.

Nicholas Gizuk says that "With a renewed focus on single vineyard expressions, we're showcasing the incredible diversity of Canadian terroir through wines that are unmistakably Inniskillin, Our intimate history and experience with this land and these grapes puts us in a position to develop one-of-a-kind wines that simply can't be re-created anywhere else."

Today, as Canada's oldest winery, Inniskillin Wines is synonymous with Canadiana and part of a family of wineries owned by Arterra Wines Canada. Inniskillin is looking to the future and is ready to redefine what premium Canadian wine can be once again with innovative techniques and over 50 years of experience that focus on every aspect of from terroir to winemaking, to deliver high-quality wines that can only be made in Canada.

In addition to this Single Vineyard Riesling and a pair of Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc wines, the other two wines in the series are the 2022 Inniskillin Illuvia Cabernet Franc, which I enjoyed a couple of months ago, and the 2024 Inniskillin Zabek Single Vineyard Riesling Icewine. All five wines in the series are available at Inniskillin and online at Great Estates Niagara, while the Icewine is also available in very limited quantities at the LCBO. Inniskillin's 50th Anniversary Series wines are ideal companions to elevate your next hosting engagement or gifting needs.

Tasting Notes:

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD MONTAGUE RIESLING 2024 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $29.22
Stelvin screw cap enclosure. The medium-high intensity nose has lovely, focused aromas of orange zest, white peach, honeyed melon, and lemon/lime citrus, plus whiffs of petrol and limestone minerality adding savoury complexity. It's medium+ bodied with impressive concentration and structure on the dry palate with delicious beeswax, honey, white peach, orange, and melon replays, plus white grapefruit, spice and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, succulent, and structured acidity, along with a finely textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced throughout, and tapering to leesy minerals and limestone on the savoury finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Light, textured fish, poached and fried white meats, shellfish, sushi, mild Asian cuisine, and citrus-based sauces.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD HERON POND CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose is clean and fresh, with herbaceous aromas mingling with ripe red & black fruits, currant, black cherry, and tobacco, plus touches of cedary oak spice and reductive notes. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry, elegant, and complex palate with ripe red fruits, red currant, black cherry, red licorice, and red plum nuanced with dried herbs, gentle oak spice, tobacco flavours. It is well-balanced throughout with refreshing acidity, and smooth, elegant, and fine-grained tannins. Tobacco, spice, and savoury earth notes linger on long, well-structured, and balanced finish. Score: 91+ pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, tart red fruit sauces and firm cheeses.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD LAMENT FARMS CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose has savoury dark fruited aromas rising out of the glass, with layers of black currant, dark cherry, cedar, savoury oak spice, and earthy mineral, plus flecks of white pepper and Damson plum adding further interest and complexity. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with more dark fruited replays of currant, cassis, black cherry, oak spice, pipe tobacco, savoury earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the firm, somewhat youthful tannins are well-structured. Touch grippy and slightly tangy with dark berry, savoury earth, and dried herbal notes on the long-lasting finish. Enjoyable now, but should improve with time in the cellar and drink well over the next 6-8 years. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, bitter chocolate, tart red fruit sauces, and firm cheeses.

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Tiraki Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It is brand-new to the LCBO and landed on shelves (and online) in last month's November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tiraki Wines, a family-owned winery situated at Longfield Farm in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. The farm was established in 1870 and has been family-owned and farmed for 5 generations. However, their journey into winegrowing only began after they planted their first grapes on the site in 1999.

The Hammond family didn't plan to start a wine company, but perhaps it was inevitable. Tiraki is run by three siblings - Josh, Tyler, and Ellarose Hammond - who grew up on the Marlborough farm, and a long-time friend - Chris. Together, they built forts out of bay hales, worked the vineyard by day, and by night they skied down the Wairau River - the same river that is depicted on the labels of Tiraki wines. Each sibling followed their own career path, which turned out to be complementary to each other as Josh became a winemaker, Tyler an MBA grad, and Ellarose a marketing grad, while Chris was a brilliant salesperson. The company was quietly growing before it even had a name.

As each child was growing up, one by one, they left Marlborough to pursue their own dreams in new cities and countries. However, in 2020, they all came home as Covid hit - much to the delight of their parents, and it was in 2020 that Tiraki was born, around the kitchen table, during vineyard walks, and over a few family dinners with Chris at the table.

Tiraki means 'the clearing of the sky' and is exactly what the brand has been for the family - a return to what matters the most - the land, their roots, and each other. Tiraki was created to reflect the life they've lived and the values they were raised with: to care for the land, support your community, and stay connected to what's real. Their values are rooted in Tikanga Māori and shape everything they do: Kaitiakitanga (Guardianship of the Land), Whanaungatanga (The Value of Connection and Kinship), Kotahitanga (Unity and Collective Action), and Manaakitanga (The Spirit of Hospitality, Kindness, and Generosity). Tiraki is proud to be New Zealand's first B Corp Certified wine company. Today, the Longfield farm spans 650 acres, with the majority planted to Sauvignon Blanc that is farmed with care and a commitment to best practices.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in their Oddstone Vineyard nestled in the Southern Valleys. The vines are 12 to 30 years old and planted on free-draining alluvial soils, and delivers concentrated fruit and lively acidity. The grapes to craft this wine were harvested in the cool, early morning, which allows for retaining aromatic flavour precursors, then gently pressed into tank to cold settle. The clear juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures with selected yeast strains designed to enhance aromatic intensity. Additionally, 18% of the wine was wild fermented in a mix of oak puncheons and stainless steel tanks. The two portions were then blended and aged on light lees for 5 months in tank.

During the 2023 growing season on the South Island of New Zealand, the vintage felt wet because it rained quite evenly from January to April, although total rainfall was slightly lower than average. Furthermore, variable and protracted flowering of early ripening varieties resulted in average yields for Sauvignon Blanc due to poor fruit set. Critical to the success of the vintage were the resulting loose bunches, which meant less disease vulnerability, particularly in Sauvignon Blanc, which is one of the most disease-prone varieties due to its naturally tight bunches. Cold nights held botrytis at bay and maintained acidity. From a La Niña year with disease pressure, the 2023 vintage is considered to be a resounding success, ranking among the top five vintages of all time. Moreover, it is possible to hypothesize that Sauvignon Blanc's optimal potential is realized in these benign La Niña conditions. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TIRAKI SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41802) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, the restrained, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers a lovely mix of ripe tropical fruits, guava, kiwi, passion fruit, lime citrus, leesy mineral, and grapefruit aromas, plus whiffs of white floral. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is impressively concentrated with lovely lime citrus, passion fruit, guava, and grapefruit flavours. It seems a bit tightly wound with its crisp and juicy acidity, and slightly grippy textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced flavours throughout with lime and passion fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Tiraki Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Miles From Nowhere Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious Sauvignon Blanc from Margaret River in Western Australia that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on October 11th.

It is produced by Miles From Nowhere, a wine brand established in 2007 by Franklin & Heather Tate. Franklin began working in wine when he planted his parents' first vines in 1973, while the couple have been working in the wine industry together since 1986. Miles From Nowhere is a dedication to the Tate family's patriarch that arrived in Australia from Ukraine over 100 years ago, and felt every bit 'miles from nowhere'. The brand's name also alludes to the geographic remoteness of the vineyards situated in the beautifully isolated Margaret River wine region of Western Australia.

The Tate family's goal with Miles From Nowhere is for every glass to express their love and passion for the Margaret River region. Frederique Perrin is the Director of Winemaking at Miles From Nowhere, and her philosophy is based on the belief that most wines are made to be shared and drunk. Additionally, no great wine is made in the cellar, as it all begins with viticulture, and then focusing on crafting wines that capture the soul of the terroir.

Miles From Nowhere has three ranges of wines - the icon wine range titled "Origin of Now", the middle-tier Best Blocks range, and the entry-level Estate Range. This particular white wine is from their Estate Range and is crafted using 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in their vineyards in Margaret River.

For this particular vintage, they selected their best blocks of the year, with about 70% coming from their Wilyabrup property and the remaining from their Karridale property. The Sauvignon Blanc in Wilyabrup is planted in an east-west orientation, by the property dam, and cane pruned. It ripens slowly due to the cool nights and foggy mornings, and produces moderate yields. The Sauvignon Blanc in Karridale is oriented north-south, on a slightly south-facing slope; therefore, the fruit is exposed to the sun by several leaf plucking passes throughout the season to ensure even ripening, while the very cool nights preserve the crisp acidity all the way to the harvest. To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested at night and rushed to the winery for pressing while cold. After pressing, the juice was racked off the majority of its solids, leaving some fine lees to bring to the ferment, which was long and cool (about 12°C), to preserve the fine fruit aromas. The wine was aged sur lees for about 3 months, then filtered and bottled in early winter.

The growing season in Margaret River was mild, with harvest starting a bit later than normal, and in great weather conditions. All the white varieties were allowed to optimally ripen and could be harvested at their peak flavour profile. For this wine, the Sauvignon Blanc from both sites was picked on the 3rd of March, with the Wilyabrup fruit displaying intense tropical fruit characters, while the Karridale fruit was added to the blend to provide refined focus and length. From a fantastic vintage, let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Margaret River is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MILES FROM NOWHERE MARGARET RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Western Australia (#41794) (XD) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this has a fragrant, highly aromatic nose that delivers a fine mix of lime/lemon citrus, leesy mineral, and garden herb aromas flecked with ripe tropical fruits (guava, kiwi), jalapeño, and spice. The dry, medium+ weighted palate has good density and concentration that supports the delicious lime/lemon citrus, guava, kiwi, garden herb, leesy mineral, and spice replays. It's well-balanced throughout with clean, fresh, and vibrant acidity. More lime citrus and guava with touches of leesy minerals linger on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Miles From Nowhere can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Fleuron de La Rebourgère Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2023 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a terrific Melon de Bourgogne from the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO in last month's October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Girard, a family estate winery that was established in the 1940s by the husband and wife team of Marcel and Gabrielle Girard in Rebourgère, a hamlet of Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, in the heart of the region of Nantes, Loire Valley. Gaston Girard, the only son of Marcel and Gabrielle, began working on the family farm at an early age and helped his mother, who had lost her husband after he returned from the war with an illness. Like most farms of the period, the Girard family practiced mixed farming with some cattle, cereal crops, and vines.

In 1961, Gaston married Georgette, a young woman from the nearby village of La Haie-Fouassière, and together they grew the farm by giving up on mixed farming and focusing on grapevines. As pioneers in the 1970s, the Girard family focused on direct-selling of their wines. With the entire family involved in the business, Gaston focused on winemaking, while his son, Patrick, helped bottle, label, and wrap the product. At the end of the week, the whole family would travel to other regions in France to hand-deliver their wines to cafés, restaurants, and private clients.

Patrick Girard, the third generation of his family to farm these lands, followed his father's footsteps and began to work in the vineyard and help with winemaking in the late 1980s, after completing his studies in winemaking. In 1991, after Gaston retired, Patrick took over the family estate. In the spring of 1991, the vines froze, and the crop was completely annihilated. In May 1991, Gaston married Martine, and together with bravery and amibition, they rebuilt the family vineyard over the years, while also making numerous improvements using modern techniques both in the vineyard and cellar.

Today, Domaine Girard's philosophy is based on the quality of the work, precision, and the flawless quality of the wines. They have 93 acres of vines in reasoned culture, and use 40% of the crop to create a diverse range of wines. As winemaker, Patrick also works in the vineyard and takes care of the commercial aspects of the business, while Martine works in the cellar, prepares orders, administrative, and accounting activities. The fourth generation of the family, Guillaume Girard, son of Patrick and Martine, joined the family estate in 2013, after completing his studies in winemaking and marketing, and like his father, combines tradition with modernity to craft their lovely Loire Valley wines.

Like the 2022 Domaine Girard Le Fleuron de La Rebourgère Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie I enjoyed in Spring of last year, this white wine is crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne that was grown on silty, clayey, and shallow soils (less than 30 cm), with a sub-soil made of schist and gneiss. The vines are more than 40 years old and planted on weak-to-moderate slopes. The grapes were mechanically harvested, then direct-pressed into underground, thermo-regulated vats for fermentation. The wine was left on its lees for 9–10 months, with one or two bâtonnages (lees stirring) in order to increase richness and texture.

In 2023, the Loire Valley had a challenging vintage due to variable weather conditions which encompassed both rain and heatwaves, with producers fighting against mildew and acid rot. However, one of the most successful areas of the Loire in this vintage was in the western area of Pays Nantais, which encompasses the Muscadet appellations. Because the Melon de Bourgogne varietal is an early ripening grape, producers were able to the Melon grape during the heatwave at the beginning of September, and prior to the heavy rains that fell mid-month. The result was Muscadet with perfectly ripe grapes, very good concentration, and slightly higher alcohol levels. Let's see how this 2023 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine from the Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FLEURON DE LA REBOURGÈRE SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2023 - AOC, Loire, France (#557207) (XD) - $16.95
This 100% Melon de Bourgogne has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is clean and refined with elegant lemon citrus, stone fruit, and ripe apple aromas, plus touches of leesy minerals and a whiff of honey adding nuance and interest. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is rich and densely concentrated with ripe apple, lemon citrus, and leesy mineral flavours, plus stone fruit, melon, and spice characters adding complexity. It has crisp and finely detailed acidity, along with a richly textured mouthfeel. Apple notes give way to leesy and oyster shell minerals with touches of spice on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy with seafood. Score: 89 pts

Other terrific wines by Domaine Girard can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, sustainable, and vegan-friendly Chardonnay that screams local as it was barrel-fermented and aged in Canadian oak barrels. This white wine returned to the LCBO as part of last month's October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario, including at the winery in Niagara.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery situated on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The winery was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson, and prides itself on their use of eco-friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar since the beginning. In 2024, after 25 successful years, Featherstone changed hands and began a new chapter under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

The vision at Featherstone is to build on the successes of the past and continue to produce distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. The philosophy at Featherstone has always been based on respect for the land which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and reduced chemical intervention, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. As nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in a give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, there is a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. Since its founding, Featherstone has always prided itself on farming without the use of insecticides, and in 2023 they achieved their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was harvested on October 26, 2023. The grapes were machine harvested, crushed, de-stemmed, and then pressed into barrels made from Canadian oak that was grown nearby. It underwent alcoholic fermentation in barrels using wild, indigenous yeast, followed by 100% complete malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months in 100% Canadian oak barrels, with lees stirring taking place on a monthly basis.

In 2023, rhe growing season was wet, dreary, and featured a smoke-filled summer, but was remarkably saved by a dry and warm fall. While the harvest was pushed back by as much as three weeks, most varieties that were harvested were in good shape, with a bountiful crop. Chardonnay was one of the star varieties of the vintage as it benefited from warm days and cool nights prior to harvest and developed vibrant fruit and juicy acidity. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#149302) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers caramel, banana, and vanilla aromas surrounding a core of ripe tropical fruits, yellow apples, and creamed peaches. On the dry, full-ish bodied palate it has caramel, vanilla, buttery, yellow apple, and peach flavours joined by some toasty oak spice notes. It's well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, while the spice notes give way to leesy minerals on the long, juicy finish. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2022 (Marche) - Wine Review

After taking some time away to deal with a personal family matter, tonight's white wine review is an exceptional Old Vines Verdicchio from the Castelli di Jesi DOC in Marche that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a family winery that was established by Gino Umani Ronchi in 1957 after he set up a small farm within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of Verdicchio Classico country in Le Marche. The history of Umani Ronchi is one of people, vineyards, terroirs, and values. In 1968, the property was acquired by Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law Massimo Bernetti, and it was reconstituted as a wine estate. Massimo oversaw the winery and focused his efforts on expanding market share abroad, increasing production through the addition of Rosso Conero wines, and increasing the area under vines. Over time, Umani Ronchi would extend to over 200 hectares of vines between Le Marche and Abruzzo.

In the early 1990s, Massimo Bernetti was joined by his son Michele, who had recently graduated in economics and business, and completed an internship in London where he worked in the sales department of Umani Ronchi's UK distributor. It was at this time that Massimo decided to further probe advanced cultivation and winemaking techniques, thanks in part to collaborations with experts from major university study centres.

Michele joined Umani Ronchi with his sights set beyond regional borders and decided to partner with Giacomo Tachis, the skilled winemaker known for celebrated wines such as Solaia and Sassicaia. This collaboration resulted in the study of international varieties and how to integrate them into the local territory, and eventually led to an award-winning wine that brought Umani Ronchi into the national and international spotlight. Michele and the technical team are constantly fine-tuning their wines with the goal of crafting wines of uncompromising quality and the ability to stand out. In 2009, this Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio won Gambero Rosso's award for White of the Year. For 20 years, Umani Ronchi has also been a member of the Istituto del Vino di Qualità – Grandi Marchi, an organization that brings together 18 of Italy's most important wine families.

Today, Umani Ronchi is a true international brand and a symbol of Italian excellence. The people behind Umani Ronchi — the human capital — are an asset whose value is inestimable and without which businesses couldn't build their present and future. They promote human well-being and protecting the environment, while innovation, improving production processes, training and skill development are distinctive features of their work culture and identity.

Umani Ronchi's philosophy for sustainability is based on green viticulture. They have a strong ethical approach with deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity, and is manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management and the use of organic fertilizers. Umani Ronchi embraces sustainability in their choice of materials by using low-impact packaging and light glass bottles to reduce Carbon Dioxide emissions, as well as synthetic corks produced from sugar cane, which are 100% recyclable. They also use photovoltaic energy for about half of the winery's annual needs to conserve energy, and reuse the water from the cellar for irrigation. Their thinking and actions are based on ecological and sustainable values.

It is crafted with 100% Verdicchio, from 4 hectares of vines that were planted in the early 1970s in the heart of Verdicchio country, on the left bank of the Esino river. The vineyard is situated at about 250–300 metres above sea level, on an east-facing hillside, where the soil is very deep and fairly fresh, with clay loam composition, conditions which are ideal for Verdicchio vines. The vines were trained using the Double Guyot (arched canes) system. The grapes were hand-harvested and collected in boxes from the end of September to the first ten days of October. After lightly pressing the grapes, the prime must was rapidly cooled and then goes through static decantation. It was fermented in steel tanks over 10–15 days at a controlled temperature between 16°C and 18°C, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation in order to preserve freshness and acidity. The wine was aged for about 10 months in contact with its lees in concrete tanks, followed by a further 6 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2022 growing season in Marche was marked by drought and extreme heat in the vineyards. However, it was the above average rainfall in September that brought the drought index back to normal levels and turned the season into an almost cool one. From a good vintage that was beyond all expectations, let's see how this 2023 Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASAL DI SERRA VECCHIE VIGNE VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2022 - DOC, Marche, Italy (#98111) (XD) - $27.95
Elegant and refined, the medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of white citrus, lime, stony mineral, pear-apple, and almond aromas with herbally accents. It's medium+ bodied and dry with lovely structure and clean acidity that supports the strony mineral driven palate. Citrus, lime, pear-apple flavours are joined by touches of chamomile and spice to add further complexity and intrigue. Juicy, well-structured, and finely textured on the mid-palate. Citrus, lime, and chamomile notes give way to an exceptionally long, stony mineral finish. Ideal with seafood, but will also pair well with poultry, pasta, and vegetarian fare. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Many other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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