La Chevalière Rasteau 2023 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Grenache-based blend from the Côtes du Rhône Cru of Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

La Chevalière is a label produced by Les Grandes Serres, a well-regarded winery located in the Southern Rhône Valley. Founded in 1977, Les Grandes Serres is known for its expertise with the classic Rhône varietals of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, and producing high-quality wines from the Southern Rhône's most prestigious appellations. The name "Grandes Serres" translates to "large greenhouses", which once existed on the property.

Today, Les Grandes Serres is dedicated to expressing the diversity and unique terroirs of the Southern Rhône Valley. They emphasize sustainable viticulture and have deep respect for the environment. Mainly a négociant firm, Les Grandes Serres sources most of their grapes from contract growers.

The grapes for this red wine come from the village of Rasteau, an appellation by the same name which also became a Cru in 2020. Rasteau is situated in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the north of Vaucluse, and features a diversity of terroirs and a Mediterranean climate. The soil in Rasteau includes red marl and sandstone, clay and limestone soils, and is covered with worn pebbles on the surface. The pebbles accumulate heat throughout the day, and at night they release all that heat, which in turn cools down the vines. Rasteau is an ideal environment for wines to fully express their structured, generous, and powerful nature.

This lovely cuvée is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan. When compared with the excellent 2022 La Chevalière Rasteau that I enjoyed in 2024, the 2023 has 10% more Syrah, while the amount of Mourvèdre and Carignan went down. To vinify this wine, the grapes were destemmed, gently crushed, and placed into temperature-controlled vats, followed by a three-week maceration with regular pumping-over and délestage (rack and return). After ageing, the different terroirs (and grapes) were blended together in order to achieve optimum balance, which highlights the characteristics of Rasteau.

In 2023, the growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a dry start and a relatively late bud burst. Welcoming late-spring rains arrived in May and June, and were followed by a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. This was a vintage that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils, and while the weather conditions did present some challenges, the resulting wines from Rasteau excelled and showed detailed terroir expression. Let's see how this 2023 Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHEVALIÈRE RASTEAU 2023 - AOP, Rhône, France (#18502) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan has a lovely, perfumed, medium-high intensity nose of dark red berry, garrigue, stones, peppery spice, blackberry, earthy mineral, with a touches of olive, leafy dried herbs, and meaty characters in a complex profile. The medium+ bodied palate is dry, ripe, and slightly warming with delicious black raspberry, peppery spice, garrigue, stones, and savoury, earthy mineral flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe and supple tannins are smooth and well-structured. Savoury and stony on the long, crisp finish. Best enjoyed at cooler temperatures and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by the producers of La Chevalière can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and organic Super Tuscan that is predominantly Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles surprisingly still available for purchase!

It is produced by Tenuta Sette Ponti, a highly-regarded, family-owned winery situated in Tuscany, between the cities of Florence and Arezzo, Italy. The history of the property begins in 1935, when Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta planted the first vineyards on the property to celebrate having taken over the Ethiopian Empire. It was called "Vigna dell'Impero", or Vineyard of the Empire, and is home to an ancient clone of Sangiovese that is the only one of its kind.

In the 1950s, architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri acquired the first 55 hectares of land directly from Princesses Margherita and Maria Cristina of Savoy-Aosta, daughters of Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta, and dedicated himself to the production of winegrowing and olive oil. The grapes were sold to producers until the 1990s, when Antonio Moretti Cuseri, son of Alberto, who had a passion for wine since he was a young boy, took over the family business in 1997.

Antonio worked alongside the best viticulturists and oenologists to evaluate the suitability of the land for the production of quality wines, although the area was already declared one of the most suitable areas for wine production in Tuscany in 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. By 1998, Antonio stopped selling his grapes to other producers and established Tenuta Sette Ponti, or Seven Bridges, in tribute to the seven bridges that extend over the Arno River on the road from Florence to Arezzo. That same year, he made his first wine - Crognolo.

In 2018, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family, Amedeo, son of Antonio, joined the family business to continue to represent the company's strong values and bring a fresh and new vision. The philosophy at Tenuta Sette Ponti is based on quality, research, long-lasting knowledge, age-old customs, respect for the land and its balance, while also keeping pace with modern agricultural and oenological practices. Tenuta Sette Ponti has an incredible love for vines and is known for making exceedingly high quality, organic wines in line with Tuscan traditions.

The Crognolo is named after a wild plant Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) that grows in abundance on the estate. This red wine was first made in 1998 and strongly represents the vision of its creator, with an eye to the valorization of the territory and to innovation achieved through traditions that evolve. The base of this wine is Sangiovese from clones from the oldest and historically significant Vigna dell'Impero vineyard. This historic varietal clone was grafted in vineyards with stony soils rich in marl. The majority of the Sangiovese used to craft Crognolo is made up of only the best Sangiovese grapes from these vines.

Similarly to the 2018 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is predominantly Sangiovese (95%) with a splash of Merlot completing the blend. The southern-facing vineyard is planted at 250 metres above sea level. The vines are 30+ years old and trained using the spurred cordon system. After undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12–14 months in French oak barriques. It was then matured for 6 months in bottle prior to release.

While the 2022 growing season in Tuscany began with a cool and unusually dry winter, which transitioned into a warm spring, the vintage was marked by the scorching hot summer and extreme drought. The conditions in summer were so dry that some producers chose to irrigate to help protect their younger vines. However, vineyards situated near forests or up hills were able to keep cool, with welcoming rain finally arriving at the end of July. Further rainfall at the end of August to the beginning of September proved to be the vintage's saving grace. Although the drought conditions unsurprisingly reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high quality. From a good vintage with slightly higher-than-usual alcohol levels, let's see how this 2022 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2022 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. A touch reductive off the top, followed by a medium-high intensity nose of ripe red cherry aromas mingling with clove, savoury oak, and earthy minerals, plus hints of sweet spices. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has lovely red & black cherry, clove, oak spice, sweet spice, and earthy mineral replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the medium-firm tannins are well-structured with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Touch spicy with the alcohol peeking through ever so slightly on the mid-palate, while the exceptionally long finish is dry, savoury, and minerally. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

Tenuta Sette Ponti's iconic Oreno is available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range of wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

For my final wine review of the year, tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cape Pastoral, a wine brand based in the Western Cape wine region of South Africa that is focused on crafting organic wines with minimal intervention.

The Western Cape is known for not only its rural beauty, including fauna and flora, but also its grape growers and winemakers, who are well-grounded as the primary preservers of the region's grape-growing soil. Cape Pastoral wines are the result of a harmonious relationship between the Western Cape's grape-growing soil, weather elements, and the natural response of the winemakers to transform the grapes into tasteful wines.

This ethos is reflected on the label of each Cape Pastoral wine. This wine has flowing shades of orange which represent the sun and its role as core source of earth’s energy, while the spots refer to the dispersal of seeds that happens naturally without human interference. The bee is an important pollinator of crops which are facing the threat of deforestation. Together, these visual elements tie into the pastoral style of creative works that idealize rural life and landscapes, while also alluding to the harmony that can exist when humans take a hands-off approach to nature.

Although I was not able to get the exact composition at the time of this post, this red wine is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes were grown and certified organically. After harvesting the grapes, they arrived at the cellar and were meticulously sorted by a sorting machine to ensure only the finest grapes were vinified. It was fermented using natural yeasts, and spent a considerable amount of time on its lees to create a creamy, textured mouthfeel. It also spent some time in oak to add spice characters and soften the tannins.

The growing season for the 2023 vintage in South Africa's winelands was generally dry and warm, with budbreak occurring slightly earlier than average. Conditions were optimal in spring and early summer, with abundant rains early in the season, just before veraison, which aided fruit quality. A cool and wet summer prolonged ripening, while unseasonal rains that arrived in March prolonged the harvest into April for many. This meant that picking decisions and careful vinification was required for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. From a vintage that was cool and long with reduced yields, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAPE PASTORAL ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#36978) (XD) - $13.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of dark fruit and cedary oak spice aromas layered over currant, cassis, earth, and black plum, with hints of chocolate. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has pleasant dark berry, currant, cassis, and oak spice flavours joined by green herbs, savoury earth, and cocoa notes. Clean and well-made with crisp acidity, while the refined and textured tannins are gently grippy. Crisp and juicy with savoury earth, oak spice, and mocha chocolate notes on the lengthy finish. Pleasantly surprised and a recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

There is only one other wine by Cape Pastoral and it can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge 2022 (Southwest France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend of Tannat and Merlot that is brand-new to the LCBO. It arrived both online and in-store as part of last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 22nd.

It is produced by Maison Fontan, an historic, family-owned wine estate located in the comune of Noulens, within the Gers department of southwestern France. The Fontan family's story begins when the first generation moved to Maubet Farm in Noulens in 1907.

The family farmed this land for 4 generations, eventually moving from polyculture farming to organized viticulture in the 1980s thanks to the passion and initiatives of Aline and Jean-Claude Fontan, the third generation of the family. Aline and Jean-Claude also played a pivotal role by helping instigate the development of Côtes de Gascogne wines.

In 2001, siblings Sylvain and Nadège Fontan, the son and daughter of Aline and Jean-Claude, took over the reins of the vineyard and continued to develop the estate. Sylvain is the winemaker and cellar master, and by enhancing the grapes he makes a range of Côtes de Gascogne wines and Armagnacs. Nadège handles marketing and sales, and ensures that their vineyard products are available at wine merchants and the best restaurants.

Formerly Domaine de Maubet, the estate was rebranded in 2021 as Maison Fontan. The house which their great-grandparents moved to is more than just a vineyard - it is a place where people live, come together and work, and where the natural world is listened to and respected. Nestled in the middle of vines, the traditional Gascon half-timbered building welcomes visitors with open arms and a warm embrace, and is a place where people feel good.

Today, Sylvain and Nadège continue down the pathway forged by their great-grandparents with immense pride and unfailing courage. The siblings also have passion and respect for their forebears and the natural environment that surrounds them. With the elegance of their vines heralding sophisticated wines and eau-de-vie, the entire team at Maison Fontan is also focused on conserving the ecosystem, taking great care, and innovating. Maison Fontan is the hallmark of a family identity with shared and continuously upheld values.

Maison Fontan has always practiced sustainable winegrowing, while common sense is de rigueur, and respect is inherent. The family also respects nature and the environment, and has the belief that if they nourish the soil to the right extent, and if they take care of it, it will give their vines the best grapes. The family also believes in being thorough and mindful during all the phases of production, from soil to glass, in order to make a safe, appealing, and carefully-controlled product of consistently high quality.

This red wine is from their "Les Tattoo" range of wines which are original, daring, and bold. The Tattoo wines combine local grape varietals with innovative winemaking methods to produce gourmet wines that may come as a surprise. This particular red wine is crafted using a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Merlot which were grown on clay-limestone and highly-compacted sandy/silty soil. After harvesting the grapes, they were destalked and placed into vats for 5 days of maceration. The grapes were fermented between 25°C–30°C, depending on the vintage, with one pumpover and two rack and returns. The juice is run off before malolactic fermentation, and is judged and tasted daily before finally undergoing filtration and kept in vat until bottling.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southwest of France featured black frosts, violent hailstorms, and severe summer drought. In spite of these challenges, the result was a significantly small harvest but with excellent quality. Let's see how this 2022 Tannat & Merlot from Côtes de Gascogne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MAISON FONTAN TATTOO T&M ROUGE 2022 - IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest, France (#43894) (D) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 50/50 blend of Tannat and Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is ripe and fruit forward with plummy, dark fruit, blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and currant aromas with hints of licorice. The medium-full bodied palate is dry-ish with plummy, black cherry, and cassis flavours with touches of spice and mineral adding a savoury component. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside supple, rounded, and mildly textured tannins. Comes off a little sweet, but finishes crisp and dry with black cherry, cassis, and a lingering minerality. The finish length is very good. Crafted in a crowd-pleasing style. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Fontan can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras at Grandes Serres. Rémy Ferbras is a wine brand anchored in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. It is owned by Maison Grandes Serres, which is in turn owned by Picard Vins & Spiritueux, and pays tribute to the winery's first cellar master - Rémy Ferbras.

As an emblematic character of the house, Rémy Ferbras was a fervent defender of the Rhône Valley terroir and its grape varieties. Rémy always aimed to express the full potential of the grapes and terroir from this renowned wine region, and contributed with his work and tenacity to expand the house and his notoriety. The Rémy Ferbras signature is synonymous with rigorous and precise selection, vinification, and ageing, values which remain with the brand. Furthermore, the wines of Rémy Ferbras are consistently rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

Like the 2022 Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted using the same 4 grapes that were grown in the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of Plan de Dieu. The named village appellation of Plan de Dieu, or "God's Plain", is a vast, flat terrace covered in vines, and makes more wine than any other Named Village. The plain lies in the Southern Rhone Valley, between the Aygues and Ouvèze rivers, which feed into the Rhône River from the east. Over thousands of years, the rivers laid down a deep bed of pebbles and clay that is perfect for cultivating vines. The vineyards in Plan de Dieu bask in the sun and are cooled by the north wind. The homogeneous terroir of Plan de Dieu has a Mediterranean climate influenced by the Mistral wind, while the soil consists of clay, limestone, and sands. As a red wine appellation, the main grape is Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in supporting roles. Grenache loves this stony, arid plateau, which used to be covered with a vast garrigue forest.

In this particular vintage, this red wine is composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre, from vines planted in mainly limestone chippings and brown clay. The grapes were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape varietal was traditionally and separately vinified. After two weeks of maceration, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26°C and 28°C, followed by malolactic fermentation, then blended and bottled.

The growing season in 2023 began with a dry start, and a relatively late bud burst. Late-spring rains in May and June were welcome, which preceded a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. It was a season that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils. While the season did present some challenges, it is considered to be a very good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre has a deep, medium-high intensity nose that offers warming black raspberry, garrigue, black cherry, floral, and spice aromas accented with stony mineral and earth notes that gain prominence with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with delicious and complex black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, stony mineral, garrigue, earth, and spice flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, alongside mouth-coating, grainy textured tannins. Shows good balance with savoury, stony mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Should drink well over next 5+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Only one wine (all in one store) from Rémy Ferbras is available at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-friendly Syrah from one of Niagara's premier Syrah wine producers. It marks the first time that the LCBO has featured a Kacaba single-vineyard Syrah in a VINTAGES Release feature story as it was categorized as perfect for festive cocktail parties (and is also suitable for the table) in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kacaba Vineyards & Winery, a premium, small-batch wine producer situated on prime, winegrowing land on the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland, Ontario. It was established in 1997 by Michael Kacaba, a Bay St. lawyer in Toronto of Ukrainian descent and a Saskatchewan background. The land where the Kacaba winery resides was slated to be a subdivision, but Mr. Kacaba had other visions and began the work to establish a vineyard and winery, and only two years later, Kacaba had their first vintage in 1999 and consistent success followed soon thereafter.

While Mr. Kacaba is no longer the owner of the winery, his vision remains - to produce wines using only the finest grapes grown on the estate or from partner growers in surrounding vineyards. The philosophy at Kacaba is dependent upon on producing small quantities of wines by limiting the quantities they can handle such that they are able to manage by hand all aspects of the winemaking process. With a focus on small-batch winemaking, Kacaba is able to produce wines of merit, while also encouraging sustainable agriculture on their land and from partner growers. Kacaba has also greatly benefited from its location on the Niagara Escarpment - a slope leading to the lake bed of the prehistoric lake that covered southern Ontario - a unique geographical microclimate whereby cold air naturally flows down the Escarpment and over Lake Ontario, where it warms, rises, and returns to heat the Escarpment. This process provides for a frost-free and extended growing season, which results in longer maturing varieties such as Syrah to naturally reach phenolic maturity and thrive in this area.

This Terraced Vineyard Syrah is one of several single-vineyard Syrahs in the Kacaba lineup. The Terraced Vineyard is one of the two original blocks of Syrah that were planted in the Kacaba Vineyard in 1997. Today, this vineyard includes some younger vines that were planted in 2007, when the neighbouring property was acquired and planted along with the Proprietor's Block. The vineyard was planted in the ravine on the property, and had to be terraced in order to plant the rows and accommodate the vineyard equipment that would help maintain the property. The ravine (and the rows of vines) run almost directly north-to-south, allowing the vines to have optimum sun exposure. With its unique microclimate, this block of vines in the terraced slope vineyard has shown much promise over the years, while producing exceptional wines. The vineyard is the most prominent part of the property as it can be seen in its entirety from the Bailey Bridge.

This red wine is actually a co-fermented blend of 90.7% Syrah and 9.3% Viognier. After careful hand-harvesting of the grapes, they were gently destemmed and left as whole berries for open-top fermentation. Both the Syrah and Viognier were cold-soaked and fermented together to extract colour, flavours, and aromatics from the skins prior to introducing yeast to initiate fermentation. During fermentation, the tanks were hand-plunged twice a day to further extract colour and flavour, while post-fermentation the wine was pressed from the skins and moved to a mixture of both French and American oak barrels to complete malolactic fermentation. The wine remained in barrels for 14 months for maturation, then combined in tank, filtered, and then bottled in August 2023.

In 2021, the growing season in Niagara was a challenging vintage. Spring and summer were mostly hot and dry, while autumn saw a shift to cool and mild temperatures, which is generally favourable for grape maturation. However, autumn also brought more rainfall, cloud cover, and fog than desired, conditions which pose a risk for fungal diseases. However, because the team at Kacaba was proactive with disease management, the timing of harvest was adjusted in order to ensure optimal grape ripeness. From a vintage that tested the skill of winemakers, as well as picking decisions, let's see how this 2021 Syrah from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KACABA TERRACED VINEYARD SYRAH 2021 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#394171) (XD) - $35.15
This co-fermented blend of 90.7% Syrah and 9.3% Viognier has a deep, medium-high intensity that seems a bit shy, offering lovely savoury meaty, dark berry, black cherry, black peppercorn spice, and floral aromas. The dry, medium+ weighted palate is ripe with tangy dark berry and sour cherry flavours joining the black peppercorn, meaty, floral, and savoury earth replays. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the ripe, fine-grained tannins are supple and textured, with good structure. Black peppercorn and meaty notes linger on the long, slightly tangy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

A couple of other wines by Kacaba are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Solicchiata Secondo di Castello 2012 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Franc-based blend from the volcanic soils of Sicily. It is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving in last month's October 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive, with some quantities still available, mostly in the Ottawa area (with store transfers likely possible).

It is produced by Feudi Barone Spitaleri, an historic château and winery that was established in 1852 by Felice Spitaleri, Marquis of Sant'Elia and Baron of Solicchiata, after he returned to Sicily from his own "grand tour" in France. However, the history of the Spitaleri family goes back much further, as they were named in 1102 after the Order of the Hospitallers Knights. Moreover, the Spitaleri family have been making wine on the volcanic island of Sicily since the 14th century and were creators of the oldest branded wine in the world.

Baron Felice was a pioneer in the art of oenology and used the knowledge he acquired in France to create the first ever Bordeaux varietal blend in Italy. In 1890, he was the first to be recognized with the Royal Warrant of Appointment by HM the King of Italy. In 1907, Antonino, a descendant of Felice, stopped the commercial production of wine, but saved a few vines for family use.

Today, Feudi Barone Spitaleri continues to be proudly owned by the Spitaleri family with brothers Baron Arnaldo and Felice the latest generation of the family to run the estate. Arnaldo revived the production of premium wines in 1997 and heads up the estate, while Felice is the master winemaker of the family wine company. Following the vision of its founder, only French vines are grown on the fertile, volcanic soils of Feudi Barone Spitaleri. The vines are grown on slopes which were formed during the lava flow in 1607 and on these slopes, Felice chose two plots close to each other and created terraces, roads, over 100 km of stone walls, and built an efficient Château solely dedicated to wine production. Feudi Barone Spitaleri grows only highly-selected and sophisticated varieties, instead of the indigenous, yet more productive, varieties. Along with a number of other properties across eastern Sicily, the Spitaleri family also grows some of the most celebrated oranges.

There are two lines of wines produced by Feudi Spitaleri, with this wine coming from their Castello di Solicchiata Vineyard range. As the name suggests, this is the "Second Wine" of the estate, and is inspired by the historic Bordeaux blends using varietals that have been present on their estate in Sicily for more than 150 years. It was Baron Felice Spitaleri who first experimented and planted these varieties by following his passion for Bordelaise vines, a passion which was developed during his prolonged stay in France.

This red wine is composed of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot that was grown on 80 hectares of terraced vineyards with alberello (bush) training. The vineyard is situated on the southwestern slopes of Mount Etna, on volcanic soils, at 800 metres above sea level. After hand-harvesting the grapes, they were macerated (and fermented) in conical oak tanks. The wine was matured for over two years in French Allier and Tronçais oak barriques, followed by further refinement in bottle for three years.

In 2012, the growing season in the Mount Etna area was hot and very dry, with no rain from May to October. As temperatures were well above average during summer, it was one of the warmest ever recorded in Etna, and irrigation was necessary for most growers because the vines were highly stressed. Many growers picked early, however, those who waited for the October rains were rewarded with grapes that offered a better balance between sugar and acidity. From a very good to outstanding vintage, let's see how this 2012 Etna red wine from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SOLICCHIATA SECONDO DI CASTELLO 2012 - IGP Sicily, Italy (#46776) (XD) - $34.95
This blend of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is immediately appealing, while revealing somewhat maturing aromas of dried cherry, rose floral, savoury earth, exotic spices, and cedar wood, plus volcanic ash minerals emerging with time in the glass. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite astringent with drying, mouth puckering tannins. Flavours are savoury with wet earth, cedar wood, cocoa, dark minerals, and oak spice nuanced with dried cherry and rose floral. Mouthwatering acids are juicy and succulent. The long finish is dry with savoury earth, and cedar notes, plus touches of exotic and sweet spices. This recommended buy is a wine for the table to pair with big red meats. Score: 91 pts

Other fine wines by Feudi Barone Spitaleri can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Tour du Haut-Moulin 2015 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine is a lovely Cabernet-Merlot from the Haut-Médoc wine region of Bordeaux that was featured on the back cover of last month's October 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Château Tour du Haut-Moulin, an historic wine estate situated in Cussac-Fort-Médoc, at the heart of Haut-Médoc, on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. The commune of Cussac-Fort-Médoc lies between Saint-Julien to the north, and Margaux to the south. The estate was established in 1870 and was managed by the Cazaux-Poitou family for 6 generations. As the 6th generation of the family, the current proprietor, Lionel Poitou, has been a part of the property since he was born and has been managing the family estate for nearly four decades. Lionel's philosophy is based on careful observation, attention to nature, and respect for tradition.

In 2024, Château Tour du Haut-Moulin was acquired by Tzora Vineyards, a wine company owned by the Hevrony and Flam families, two leading producers of the Judaean Hills region of Israel. The team at Château Tour du Haut-Moulin is now led by four individuals: Eran Pick MW, Golan Flam, Dan Sheinman, and Lionel Poitou. Eran holds a B.Sc. degree in Viticulture and Enology with Highest Honours from University of California, Davis. Golan has been making wine for over 25 years, while also having a B.Sc. from the Faculty of Agriculture and a Masters in Enology. Dan has a B.Sc. degree in plant sciences, and then began his journey in winemaking by focusing on both vineyard and cellar approaches and practices in Burgundy. Together, they have a shared vision to maximize the potential of the estate, while maintaining its long-standing history and tradition.

The 10-hectare vineyard at Château Tour du Haut-Moulin is planted to mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a small amount of Petit Verdot, all of which is grown on the gravelly soils of the Médoc. The wines of Lionel Poitou are crafted in a style that emphasizes finesse and elegance over brute power.

The 2015 growing season with a combination of warm days and cool nights during March and early April, while the rest of April through May featured very warm and dry conditions, leading to a rapid and precocious flowering. June and July were exceptionally hot and without any rain, which eventually caused some drought stress on the vines. However, four separate rainstorms in August brought some relief to the vines. Heavy rains came in mid-September, prior to the red wine harvest, followed by sunshine with cool nights. There was more rain during the first weekend of October, but both Merlot and Cabernets were picked in unhurried conditions. From a very good to outstanding vintage for wines from the southern Médoc, let's see how this 2015 Haut-Médoc from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TOUR DU HAUT-MOULIN 2015 - AOC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#26295) (XD) - $27.95
Blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that was matured in French oak, only 30% new. The medium-high intensity nose is rich with ripe black fruits, black cherry, currant, and blackberry aromas that mingle with oak spice, graphite minerality, and savoury earth, plus touches of dark plum. The elegant, well-structured, medium+ bodied palate is dry with lovely black fruited, black cherry, currant, blackberry, graphite, savoury minerals, and earth flavours. Acids are succulent and juicy, while the tannins are youthfully grippy and chalky textured, yet approachable. Graphite mineral notes linger on the long, savoury, and slightly grippy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Any other wines by this Château can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Cap Classique Brut Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2022 and Pat's Garden Reserve 2020 (South Africa) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from one of my favourite South African wine producers - Ken Forrester Wines. Both of these terrific wines arrived at the LCBO recently, with the red wine making its debut at the LCBO in the September 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the sparkling wine landed in the October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Ken Forrester Wines was established in 1993 by Ken Forrester and his wife, Teresa, after they acquired at a public auction a vacant and derelict farm and homestead that was situated on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, in the heart of Stellenbosch, South Africa's premier wine growing region. The site is one of the oldest farms in the Cape, with a long history that dates back to 1689, and the first vines were planted in 1694. The farm changed hands a number of times over the years, eventually falling on hard times in the early 1990s and finding itself up for auction.

The vision at Ken Forrester Wines is for sustainable farming - to improve the lot of their employees by growing their own business, and thereby providing maximum job opportunities in a market that is desperate for support. In the vineyard, Ken Forrester farms sustainably without the use of herbicides and pesticides. They also till the soil, prune, thin bunches and leaves, and harvest by hand. With this additional employment, they hope that it goes some way to improving the quality of life in their community, and they know that if every community looked after their own, no one would go wanting. This is their proposal, and consequently, each bottle is a victory and represents a small change – for the better – in someone's life. Additionally, Ken Forrester Wines are certified for Integrity & Sustainability by the South African Wine and Spirit Board.

At Ken Forrester Wines, the winemaking philosophy is based on managing their vineyards in a sustainable manner, along with a workplace environment and work ethic that should be a shining light in the industry. They have several ranges of wines that are handcrafted and individually made to complement a wide variety of cuisines and provide excellent value. The Pat's Garden is part of their Reserve Wine Range, where the team at Ken Forrester is solely responsible for the cultivation of the vines and selection of the fruit, most of which come from their family property in Stellenbosch, just 5 kilometres from the cool Atlantic and in the sheltered lee of the majestic Helderberg Mountain. The sparkling wine is part of Ken Forrester's Cellar Exclusives Range - a collection of special and limited parcels of wines.

An interesting note about the red wine is that while it used to be known as "Pat's Garden Merlot", it was always blended with 8–12% Cabernet Franc. The wine laws in South Africa allow for wines to be labelled as a single varietal wine so long as the blend does not exceed 15% of other varieties. The team at Ken Forrester began doing some experimentation by blending the 4 traditional Bordeaux varieties and with the 2018 vintage they launched the Pat's Garden Reserve wine.

The 2020 growing season in South Africa featured moderate to warm growing conditions, which continued into late autumn, while the 2022 vintage was one of the wettest and coldest in recent memory. There was a sudden heat spike just before harvest in 2022, but fall was generally cool and moderate. Both vintages were rated excellent, so let's see how this 2020 red and 2022 sparkling wine from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEN FORRESTER SPARKLEHORSE CAP CLASSIQUE BRUT SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC 2022 - Traditional Method, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#32030) (D) - $29.95
Aged on its lees for 20 months, the elegantly fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers lovely aromas of autolytic, toasty, leesy, biscuit, and honey characters surrounding a core of lemon citrus and golden apple. It has a finely beaded mousse and racy, gently tangy acidity on the medium+ bodied palate with delicious autolytic, biscuit, toasty, lemon citrus, and apple flavours, plus touches of honey in a fairly dry profile. Juicy on the mid-palate, while the long finish is savoury with leesy mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEN FORRESTER PAT'S GARDEN RESERVE 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#45169) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 44% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is well-balanced with complex aromas of ripe red & black fruits, currant, raspberry, blackberry, cassis, oak spice, cocoa, savoury wet earth, and dried herbs with touches of leafy green herb notes. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and slightly chewy with more ripe red & black fruits, currant, cassis, raspberry, blackberry, oak spice, savoury wet earth, cocoa, and dried herb flavours. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the elegant tannins are smooth, refined, and gently grippy on the back palate. Impeccably balanced throughout with red & black fruits mingling with savoury wet earth, oak spice, and smoky minerals on the long finish. Has the stuffing to age gracefully for at least another 5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Ken Forrester is widely available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva Garnacha / Tempranillo / Cariñena / Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend of 4 varieties from the Cariñena appellation in northeastern Spain. It is a frequent visitor to the LCBO, arriving most recently in last month's September 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Grandes Vinos, a grower-driven wine company whose roots go back more than half a century when winegrowers in the district of Cariñena formed five cooperatives between 1950 and 1967. This passion for wine and everything that surrounds it were the beginnings of Grandes Vinos, which was officially formed in 1997.

Today, Grandes Vinos is the union of more than 700 families of winegrowers who share their hard work and know-how to create wines that combine tradition and innovation, and have no borders. The winegrowers are the protagonists, ensuring that the legacy of Cariñena lives on today and is passed down from one generation to the next. To speak of Grandes Vinos is to speak of a unique land, of tradition, of sunshine, of rain, of effort and dedication, and, of course, passion. For their protagonists, vine growing is not only a passion, but a way of life.

Cariñena is the only land in the world that gives its name to a grape varietal - Cariñena - which is also known as Carignan. The land of Cariñena is a territory that treasures old vineyards at different altitudes, soil with ancient stones, and a strong, dry wind (El Cierzo) that gives personality to the wine. Cariñena, the land, has been linked to wine since the Romans of the 3rd Century B.C., when they mixed wine with honey. Today, Grandes Vinos has over 4,500 hectares of vineyards of all ages (some over 100 years old) located in the foothills of the Iberian sierras of Algairén and Pecos, and between the rivers Huerva and Jalón, at altitudes between 320 and 850 metres above sea level. The land below these vineyards is made up of age-old stony soil, with layers of rocks and earth.

Grandes Vinos produces many wines under several different and unique brands, with this particular wine bottled under their Monasterio de las Viñas range - their Spanish brand which has the greatest international presence. The fruit for all Monasterio de las Viñas wines come exclusively from vineyards in the municipality of Aguarón, one of the highest areas and with the highest quality production of Cariñena PDO wines. The wines of Monasterio de las Viñas are produced mainly using indigenous varieties and pay homage to the famous Monasterio de las Viñas that was built by Cistercian monks in the 11th century. The monastery was erected in a privileged place in the Sierra de Aguarón, and whose widespread notoriety is in turn attributed to its spirituality as well as the great quality of its wines.

This particular red wine is a blend of Garnacha (Grenache), Tempranillo, Cariñena (Carignan), and Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown in Aguarón, in the province of Zaragoza, Aragon, in northeastern Spain. These vineyards are more than 30 years old and feature clayey clear soil with stones on the upper substrates. The grapes were traditionally vinified, then aged for 12 months in 70% American and 30% French oak barrels.

The 2020 vintage was a difficult one in Spain, not only due to the fall-out from COVID, but also from the growing season, which began with an unusually wet but warm spring, which brought humidity and any associated disease problems. Producers that remained vigilant in managing mildew produced quality fruit. Hot weather eventually arrived, which helped the grapes dry out and rid them of disease, while allowing the grapes to reach phenolic ripeness ahead of time, which led to an earlier than normal harvest. From a good vintage that produced wines with elegance, let's see how this 2020 red blend from the Cariñena appellation in Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS RESERVA GARNACHA / TEMPRANILLO / CARIÑENA / CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - DO Cariñena, Spain (#166579) (XD) - $16.95
The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of ripe red cherry, dried herbs, dark berry, fine wood spice, and chocolate aromas nuanced with touches of dried rose floral, dried cherry, and sweet spices. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and quite ripe with delicious red & black cherry, wood spice, coconut, vanilla, and dried herb flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity and fine, dusty textured tannins. It's nicely balanced throughout with savoury, earthy oak, and coconut notes on the lengthy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A couple of other wines from Monasterio de las Viñas brand are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Rhonéa Tradition Rasteau 2021 and Les Confluences Vinsobres 2022 (Rhône) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely cru wines from the Southern Rhône Valley that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES recently. The Rasteau returned to VINTAGES on July 19th, while the Vinsobres made its debut as the Wine of the Month in the August 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both are widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

These red wines are produced by Rhonéa, a co-operative winery with deep roots in the Rhône Valley. It all began in the Provençal village of Rasteau in 1925, where singing cicadas and the scent of garrigue filled the air. During this time of economic certainty, a group of visionary and historic winegrowers joined forces to form a co-operative in order to showcase their land and wines. Despite the challenges, the co-operative adapted, grew, and thrived under the guidance of various presidents and directors, while also embracing innovation. The quality and dedication of the village eventually led to Rasteau being officially recognized as a Cru of the Rhône Valley in 2010.

Today, Rhonéa is made up of over 400 families of Artisan Winegrowers who have over a combined 2,900 hectares of vineyards stretching from the southeast of the Rhône to the north of the Vaucluse department. Situated across a diverse range of Rhône terroirs, these vineyards have been cultivated by winegrowing families for 3 or more generations.

In 2025, Rhonéa is celebrating 100 years of history, tradition, and shared dreams. To mark this special occasion, Rhonéa's oenologist carefully crafted the exclusive Centenary Cuvée, a blend of predominantly Grenache that is a testament to the co-operative's century-old expertise and unwavering passion for its terroir. The 2025 centenary is more than just a milestone; it is a celebration of the co-operative's core values - solidarity, heritage, and a shared passion for the vine. As a true symbol of the village, the co-operative tells a collective story, where each winegrower is a vital part of a century-long legacy of success. The co-operative is also focused on a sustainable future with their growth of local and sustainable winegrowing, as well as putting social responsibility and environmental protection at the heart of their project.

Both 2021 and 2022 were challenging vintages in the Southern Rhône Valley. In 2021 there was frost, hail, and rain, which reduced yields and created an uneven vintage. While 2021 will be remembered for being atypical, it will also be remembered for producing quality wines that are fresh, lush, and tasty. The 2022 growing season will be known for its heat and drought conditions. However, with the remarkable resilience of the vines and the dedication of the winegrowers and technical staff, the vintage promises wines of outstanding quality. Let's see how these two Southern Rhône Valley wines from the crus of Rasteau and Vinsobres are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

RHONÉA TRADITION RASTEAU 2021 - AP, Rhône, France (#998716) (XD) - $19.95
Blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan that was grown on terraces of clay, limestone, and pebbles in the plains of Rasteau, as well as on hills facing the Dentelles de Montmirail at 200–250 metres above sea level that featured layers of blue marls. The grapes were manually harvested, sorted, and destemmed, and followed by traditional vinification with long maceration and partial punching down. Tasting now for the third time, the medium+ to medium-high intensity has a slightly perfumed nose wafting of savoury, earthy mineral aromas nuanced with black cherry, dark red cherry, raspberry, garrigue, and spice. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has delicious black cherry, raspberry, savoury earthy-stony minerals, garrigue, and spice flavours, plus hints of plum. It has fresh acidity, along with supple, refined, and gently textured tannins with good structure. Savoury and earthy minerals with touches of spice linger on the long, elegant, and juicy finish. In LCBO VINTAGES July 19th and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

RHONÉA LES CONFLUENCES VINSOBRES 2022 - AC, Rhône, France (#43748) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 49% Grenache, 44% Syrah, and 7% Mourvèdre was grown on red marls soil on the "Eygues" plain, between 200–300 metres above sea level. The grapes were harvested at optimum maturity, fermented at a controlled temperature, vinified using traditional methods, and aged for 12 months in oak barrels. The medium-high intensity nose offers lovely spicy, savoury earth, and garrigue layers, alongside blackberry, black raspberry, ripe plum, and black pepper notes. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has delicious ripe black cherry, black raspberry, peppery spice, garrigue, red plum, and savoury, earthy mineral flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity, and smooth, refined tannins with good structure and a touch of tannic grip. Black cherry, raspberry, and peppery spice notes give way to savoury and earthy minerals on the long, satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Rhonéa can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Rémy Ferbras Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Southern Rhône Valley that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the August 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Rémy Ferbras at Les Grandes Serres. Rémy Ferbras is anchored in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the heart of a prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyard. The brand is owned by Maison Grandes Serres and pays tribute to the winery's first cellar master - Rémy Ferbras - who is the emblematic character of the house. Rémy was a fervent defender of the Rhône Valley terroir and its grape varieties, and was able to express the full potential of the grapes and terroir from this renowned wine region. Rémy Ferbras contributed with his work and tenacity to expand the house and his notoriety, while his signature is synonymous with rigorous and precise selection, vinification, and ageing. The wines of Rémy Ferbras are consistently rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

This red wine is crafted with 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre that was grown in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in a famous vineyard dominated by its papal ruin and exceptional terroir. A rising vineyard teeming with creativity, the soils in this vineyard are mainly sandy and limestone, and covered with rolled pebbles. After manually harvesting the grapes with strict sorting, each varietal was vinified separately using traditional methods. The grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature between 26–28°C, with 2–3 weeks of maceration. The wine was partially aged in French oak barrels for up to 18 months.

The 2021 growing season in the Southern Rhône was a very challenging vintage where frosts reduced yields; Châteauneuf, however, was spared the worst of the frosts. There were also unpredictable temperatures throughout the season, and random thunderstorms in July, but thankfully without any heat spikes. Furthermore, there were untimely rains in mid-September, which affected early-budding grapes such as Syrah. While the quality of Grenache was mixed, it was mostly very good with thin skins, resulting in fresher, lower-alcohol wines with elegant tannins. Let's see how this 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021 - AP, Rhône, France (#15184) (XD) - $50.95
This blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that seems a bit shy, offering pleasing ripe red plum, red berry, and spice aromas nuanced with garrigue, savoury earth, and stony mineral notes. The dry, medium-full bodied is youthfully structured with very good concentration and lovely ripe red berry, spice, cassis, black cherry, garrigue, savoury earthy, stony mineral, and gentle smoky oak flavours. It has crisp and lively acidity, while the mouth coating, well-structured tannins have some youthful grip. Red berry, garrigue, and red plum notes give way to earthy and stony minerals on the long, crisp finish. Enjoyable now, but will reward with a few years in the cellar, and should be enjoyable into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Remy Ferbras can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Featherstone Gemstone 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, certified sustainable, and vegan-friendly blend of Cab Franc and Merlot from Niagara that made its debut at the LCBO last month in the July 19th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the eco-friendly Featherstone Estate Winery that is situated in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. It was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson.

In 2024, amidst their 25th anniversary, Featherstone changed hands and is now under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal. Even though Featherstone is under new ownership, Rayla and George aim to build on the successes of the past and continue to produce distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment.

Since the beginning, Featherstone has prided itself on its eco-friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar. In addition to farming insecticide-free since its founding, the philosophy at Featherstone has always been based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Furthermore, as nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in a give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, there is a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. In 2023, Featherstone Estate Winery received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This red wine is a blend of 57.1% Cabernet Franc and 42.9% Merlot. The various parcels of grapes were harvested over a couple of weeks from Oct. 26 to Nov 10, 2023. Each component of the blend was individually vinified in their climate-controlled cellar. After undergoing alcoholic fermentation, the wine underwent 100% complete malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks to ensure freshness and bright fruit flavours. It was minimally oaked by spending only 2 months in oak barrels.

The growing season in 2023 featured a wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer, which delayed harvest. It also featured an extended growing season that allowed for the development of ripe, concentrated primary fruit flavours and complexity, alongside firm tannins and finesse. Furthermore, the vintage produced bountiful fruit with a dry and warm fall that resulted in very good to excellent fruit quality, with impressive results for structured reds such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot - the two grapes comprising this red wine. Let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE GEMSTONE 2023 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#46055) (XD) - $17.95
This vegan-friendly blend of 57.1% Cabernet Franc and 42.9% Merlot is enclosed by Stelvin screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose is ripe and plummy with dark berry, currant, and peppery spice aromas, plus accents of cassis, black cherry, and subtle oak spice. The mid-weighted palate is dry and ripe with some jammy notes joining the plummy, black fruit, dark cherry, currant, cassis, and subtle oak spice characters. It has fresh and juicy acidity, along with ripe, lightly structured, and grainy tannins. Earthy and subtle oak spice notes with touches of dark cherry and herbs on the dry and savoury finish, with good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over next 2-3 years. Score: 88 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Barón de Ley Gran Reserva 2017 (Rioja) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2015 Barón de Ley Gran Reserva a couple of years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific, vegan-friendly Rioja from Spain that returned to the LCBO last month as part of the June 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the prestigious Barón de Ley, a family-owned winery that is situated in a 16th-century monastery on the banks of the Ebro river, where vineyards and winemaking were introduced by monks in 1568. Inspired by French châteaux to craft premium, estate-grown Rioja wines, Barón de Ley was founded at the monastery in 1985, within the Rioja DOCa wine region of Spain. The name 'de ley' comes from the Spanish expression for 'legit', and at Barón de Ley they take care of every little detail to offer in every bottle an excellent, trustworthy wine - a genuinely good Rioja.

In 1990, Barón de Ley launched their first wines, including one of the signature wines of the Estate - this Gran Reserva. Success and growth followed soon thereafter, and by 2000, Barón de Ley renewed their winemaking philosophy with Gonzalo Rodríguez recruited as the new Chief Winemaker. Gonzalo encouraged the planting of new indigenous grape varieties, and further success and expansion followed. By 2008, Barón de Ley owned over 600 hectares of vineyards across the different sub-regions with a variety of microclimates and soils in Rioja. In 2018, Barón de Ley renovated their vinification facilities in order to use state-of-the-art winemaking techniques, while also constructing a new oak ageing cellar to expand their long-ageing capacity, which takes place in traditional French and American oak barrels.

Like the previous vintage, this red wine continues to be composed of Tempranillo and Graciano. The grapes were grown in Barón de Ley's old vineyards of low-yielding vines in Cenicero, Rioja Alta. The vineyard in Cenicero has alluvial calcareous soil, spans 94 hectares, and is situated at an elevation of 450 metres above sea level. At this site, the combination of the Mediterranean climate that is clearly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, results in elegant wines with great ageing capabilities.

To craft this wine, they hand-harvest and hand-select the bunches, followed by mechanical selection of the berries using their state-of-the-art sorting table, ensuring that only the best grapes are selected with care in order to produce a wine of maximum quality. After undergoing alcoholic fermentation, the wine was aged for a minimum of 24 months in American and French oak casks, followed by a further 36 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2017 vintage in Rioja was rated as 'Very Good'. The growing season began with a dramatic frost in late April, which resulted in significantly lower yields and an extremely short vintage. This was followed up by a lack of rain during the ripening period, along with hot temperatures, which resulted in the earliest picking ever recorded in Rioja. The most difficult part for producers was managing two separate buddings - with the higher acidity from the second budding helping offset the ripeness of the first budding. However, overall quality was good, despite the challenges of the vintage. Let's see how this 2017 Gran Reserva Rioja from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BARÓN DE LEY GRAN RESERVA 2017 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#642496) (XD) - $32.95
This blend of Tempranillo and Graciano has some initial woodsy and oak aromas, but after that it delivers a fine, fragrant, very complex, and highly aromatic nose of sandalwood, fine wood spices, dried rose florals, red cherry, cedar, and coconut notes accented with savoury earth, leathery, olive, and vanilla. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with delicious red cherry, dried roses, wood spices, sandalwood, cedar, olive, and coconut flavours. It has tangy, crisp, and juicy acidity, while a touch spicy on the mid-palate with well-integrated, lightly textured tannins. Tangy, wood spices, and olive notes linger on the long, crisp finish. This recommended buy is best enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Barón de Ley is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Tanesse 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Bordeaux red from the Right Bank that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the April 26th LCBO VINTAGES Release Collection.

It is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native land of Algeria in 1962 to start a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, Gironde, in the great wine region of Bordeaux. Paul bought Château de Marsan, which was in ruins at the time, but was surrounded by promising terroirs. He began the adventure with three hectares of grapes, then developed the property's arboricultural activity with the help of the entire family.

Paul's three sons became actively involved in the estate and in local life, with his eldest son, Pierre, becoming mayor of the local municipality, while Philippe became involved in running the property at a very early age, and the youngest son, Eric, carrying out his first vinification in 1985. The Gonfrier family continued to grow the estate with each passing year, with the objective of excellence: ensuring that each variety of grape is carefully selected to best express each plot's special characteristics, while also employing vinification techniques among the vines and in the cellar that seek to allow the terroir to express its finest qualities.

Today, Vignobles Gonfrier is led by brothers Eric and Philippe Gonfrier. Their recognition of exceptional quality wines has allowed them to acquire additional vineyards to further refine their blends. With over 1,000 hectares of vines, state-of-the-art equipment and facilities, the Gonfrier family goes out of its way to craft top-quality wines with sensitivity and respect for the concept of terroir. The third-generation of the family is also now involved in the family business, with Thibault, Philippe’s son, joining the company and expending great effort on taking care of the well-maintained vineyards in an environmentally respectful manner. In 2018, Thibault's sister, Audrey, also joined the company following her successful time spent at a Bordeaux wine merchant. Eric's three children are currently finishing up their studies and are eager to integrate into the family business by implementing new modern skills and knowledge. Their deep-rooted values are: passion for their work, respect for their clients, respect for their commitments, respect for the environment, and defence of their independence and freedom of action.

Château Tanesse is located in the Langoiran district of the AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, a sub-appellation of the within the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Built in the second half of the 18th century by the Tanesse family, the Bordeaux charterhouse is located on a high hillock among Langoiran's sloping vineyards, and overlooks the commune's medieval 13th-century castle and offers a magnificent, panoramic view that stretches from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, while following the meanders of the Garonne River. The property is surrounded by a 30-hectare vineyard that sits atop very old foundations and has exceptional terroir.

This red wine is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil in the vineyard surrounding the Château. The vineyard is managed using sustainable viticulture (certified HVE3), while the Gonfrier family is also committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach certified by Ecovadis. The vines average 25 years old and were trained in the traditional Bordeaux-style, with two canes and a flat arch, along with controlled grassing-down of the vine rows or mechanical working of the soil in order to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. The grapes were manually green harvested, to allow for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while also mechanically harvested. After destemming, crushing, and vatting, the grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks, with a prolonged maceration to extract tannins and showcase the terroir. And finally, the wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

Despite the pandemic, the 2020 growing season produced a legendary vintage. The growing season began with a balmy but frequently wet spring, which ensured both an early and successful budburst and flowering, while also putting the vineyards in good shape for the arrival of a hot and dry summer. Conditions were mostly arid throughout summer, with intermittent thunderstorms providing just enough water relief. The Right Bank had fewer deluges than the Left, but producers still had to be extremely vigilant at managing disease. Harvest took place during the chaos of COVID, but the weather in fall brought warm days and chilly nights, allowing the Bordeaux varieties to reach phenolic ripeness. While yields were slightly smaller than average, the fruit was healthy and of high quality. Let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TANESSE 2020 - Sustainable, AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, France (#666628) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc is richly fragrant and inviting, with a medium-high to highly aromatic nose of lovely ripe dark fruits, black cherry, currant, cassis, and wood spice aromas surrounding a core of savoury earth and accented with graphite, mineral, and whiffs of rose floral. It's medium+ bodied and dry with ripe black cherry, currant, cassis, earthy, and graphite flavours in a well-balanced profile with crisp and juicy acidity. Accessible, medium-level tannins are well-structured and provide a nicely textured mouthfeel. Savoury with earthy and graphite notes linger on the long, gently grippy finish. Should drink nicely into the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

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Château Plantey 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Cru Bourgeois Cab-Merlot from the Pauillac appellation on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. It made its debut at the LCBO and was featured as part of the theme exploring France's top wine regions in the February 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Château Plantey is situated in the winegrowing commune and appellation of Pauillac, within Haut-Médoc in Bordeaux. The small village of Pauillac is located on the west bank of the Gironde, while Château Plantey is only a couple of kilometres west of the village centre. Château Plantey is an old property which used to be owned by the De Gerès family from Loupes, Seigneurs of Camarsac.

In 1958, the vineyard was purchased by Gabriel Meffre. A former print media journalist for twelve years, Claude Meffre, son of Gabriel, now owns Château Plantey. Claude decided to join the family business in 1996 and first managed Château La Commanderie in Saint-Estèphe. From 2000, Claude has managed Château Plantey.

With most red wines from the Left Bank being Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends, this red wine from Pauillac is also a blend that consists of 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that was grown on the exceptional terroir around the château, which is located in the commune of Pauillac, just north of the hamlet of Artigues, about 2 km inland from the shores of the Gironde. The 27 hectares of vines, which sit about 30 metres higher than the area surrounding them, average 30 years old and are planted on chalky clay and gravel soil. The grapes were harvested by hand and mechanically, then traditionally vinified with thermoregulation in vats for three weeks. The wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of both vats and barrels, with 25% of the barrels new. In the 2018 vintage, Château Plantey was the only Cru Bourgeois listed from Pauillac.

The 2018 vintage in Pauillac began with a relatively mild winter, followed by very complex weather at the beginning of the season, with a deluge of rain and permanently high humidity until mid-July. From the rest of July through September, conditions were incredible, including searing heat, and perfect for achieving great maturity. While the 2018 vintage in Pauillac is considered to be excellent, some of the wines showed a slightly overcooked character, as well as some inconsistencies across the region in quality. Let's see how this 2018 Bordeaux red wine from Pauillac is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU PLANTEY 2018 - AC Pauillac, Bordeaux, France (#38192) (XD) - $44.95
This Cru Bourgeois is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot and has a lovely, elegant, and medium-high to highly aromatic nose of ripe red & black fruits, currant, and cassis aromas layered over earthy-smoky minerality, graphite, and accents of red cherry notes. The weighty, medium-full to full-bodied is dry with medium-firm, well-structured, ripe and slightly chewy tannins that are smooth and fine grained. Ripe flavours of red & black fruits, currant, cassis, black cherry surround a savoury core of earthy minerality and graphite. Touch chalky and grippy textured on the mid-palate, along with some warmth, but still well-balanced. Quite elegant throughout with savoury, graphite mineral notes lingering on the exceptionally long finish. Lovely! Enjoy this highly recommended buy into the early 2030s. Score: 92+ pts

While this wine appears to be sold out at the LCBO, you may be able to get your hands on it through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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