Umani Ronchi Vellodoro Pecorino 2025 (Abruzzo) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Pecorino from Abruzzo, Italy, that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a highly respected and pioneering Italian wine producer. Umani Ronchi was established in 1957 by Gino Umani Ronchi in the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche in central Italy. A few years later, Gino formed a partnership with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, who would eventually take over the company in 1968.

In Abruzzo, Umani Ronchi initially operated as a négociant in the 1990s in order to craft wines from the region. In 2001, they marked the beginning of a new venture by acquiring roughly 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo. Situated between the Gran Sasso and Adriatic Sea, the estate would go on to become Tenuta Centovie estate at Roseto degli Abruzzi.

Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager in 1990. With Michele at the helm, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo. The philosophy at Umani Ronchi is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. These guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values. The winery is also a proud and founding member of the Istituto del Vino di Qualità – Grandi Marchi, an organization established in 2004 that brought together 18 of Italian wine's most important families that are also shaping the future for generations to come.

This white wine is made from 100% Pecorino, a grape that in the past was used more often as a blending variety thanks to its highly concentrated aromas, good alcohol content, and wonderful acidity. In 2005, Umani Ronchi's Pecorino Project began with the goal of discovering and developing native Adriatic varieties, as well as strengthening the winery's position as a top wine producer in Abruzzo. Pecorino had almost disappeared from vineyards because its naturally low yields made it unpopular with growers, but it has since become widely planted in Abruzzo and neighbouring Marche. According to local tradition, the grape gets its name because sheep (pecora) are known to eat the grapes.

The grapes for this Pecorino were grown at Umani Ronchi's estate in Roseto degli Abruzzi in Teramo, overlooking the Gran Sasso mountain. The vines were tended with strict selection and careful vineyard management led by the winery's agronomic supervisors, especially in the northern part of Chieti. The soils are mainly clay that is sandy, deep and relatively fresh, while the climate provides a good thermal diurnal range that promotes elegance and aromatic complexity.

It is also worth noting that previous vintages of this wine, some of which I have tasted previously, bore the Terre di Chieti IGT classification, while this vintage bears the new Terre d'Abruzzo IGT appellation. The new regional designation consolidates the eight IGTs that previously existed across Abruzzo into a single, common regional identity, helping to promote a stronger image for wines from the region.

To craft this wine, the grapes were carefully hand-harvested in September to preserve acidity. After lightly pressing the grapes, the must was rapidly cooled and underwent static decantation. Alcoholic fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 16–18°C for about 10–15 days, without undergoing malolactic fermentation. After fermentation, the wine was matured on its lees in stainless steel tanks for about four months.

The growing conditions in 2025 in Abruzzo began with a cool and rainy start to the season, which replenished water reserves following drought conditions in 2024. Summer was warm and sunny, allowing for proper ripening, while large diurnal temperature shifts in August and September helped preserve freshness and aromatic intensity. A temperate harvest period avoided heat stress, resulting in healthy fruit with full phenolic ripeness. It was a vintage that marked a return to balance and normality, producing exceptional grape quality. Let's see how this 2025 Pecorino from Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI VELLODORO PECORINO 2025 - IGT Terre d'Abruzzo, Italy (#289553) (XD) - $17.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose has lovely, concentrated aromas of ripe lemon citrus, yellow & white flowers, apple, pear, and spice, with undertones of leesy minerals and herbs. On the dry, weighty, medium-full bodied palate it is impressively concentrated with dry, ripe, and gently honeyed flavours of spice, lemon citrus, apple, pear, leesy mineral, floral, and herbs in a complex profile. It has a slightly viscous mouthfeel, along with fresh and juicy acidity. Lemon citrus, apple, pear, and spice notes taper to leesy minerals on the crisp, lip-smacking, and long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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El Goru Gold Mad Hairy Fella Monastrell / Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend that is predominantly Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre), with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in support. This vegan-friendly wine arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago and was featured on the back cover of the recent August 1 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Ego Bodegas, a small, independently owned winery that was founded in 2011 by the husband-and-wife team of Santos Ortiz and Ioana Paunescu. Santos is Spanish, while Ioana is originally from Romania, and together they settled in the Jumilla wine region of southeastern Spain, not far from the historic centre of Jumilla. The project was born from their passion and determination to produce high-quality wines that showcase the unique terroir of Jumilla.

Santos and Ioana fell in love with a spectacular farm in the elevated area of Hoya Torres in Jumilla, locally known as the carpenter's place. The property offered a naturally beautiful landscape surrounded by old vineyards planted to Monastrell. Their approach was to build the winery project from the top down — or, more accurately, to build a commercially viable wine business from the ground up. In order to achieve their objectives of sales and profitability, they sought to find the right balance between three core concepts: Quality, Image, and Price. After two years of hard work, the couple launched Ego Bodegas, a wine brand based on the philosophy of ego, talento, and infinito — or self, talent, and infinity — reflecting their passion, learning, and dreams without limits.

From the very beginning, Ego Bodegas has taken a contemporary approach to winemaking, combining traditional methods with modern techniques. With modern winemaking facilities and a culture of constant improvement, they strive to balance innovation with consumer demand while maintaining quality. Today, they have 35 hectares of vineyards, most of which are planted to native varieties, with a particular focus on Monastrell, which is exceptionally well adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of Jumilla. The soils are dark and calcareous, with good permeability and moisture-retention properties that help the vines endure periods of drought. The climate is continental and arid, influenced by the Mediterranean Sea to the east and the plateau of La Mancha to the west. The region also receives more than 3,000 hours of sunshine annually, making it one of the driest wine-growing areas in Spain. While the portfolio has expanded in recent years to include wines made from other varieties, Monastrell remains central to Ego Bodegas as they continue to innovate and craft wines of excellence.

Like the 2020 El Goru Gold Mad Hairy Fella I enjoyed last year, this red wine is a blend of 3 varieties, similarly composed of approximately 80% Monastrell, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were hand-harvested and selected through a strict field-selection process. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were carefully macerated until the desired wine profile was achieved. Throughout the process, a pump-over technique called pigeage was used, allowing for slower extraction and enhancing the expression of varietal aromas. The grapes underwent a meticulously temperature-controlled fermentation (max. 28ºC) to extract the full potential of each variety. The wine was then blended and transferred into new American and French oak barrels, and aged for 12 months.

The growing season across the southern wine regions of Spain, including Jumilla, was marked by extremely hot temperatures and several heatwaves. However, vines grown in areas accustomed to these extreme conditions endured the heat quite well. These hot and dry conditions also helped keep most disease and rot at bay. While yields were down once again, the fruit was highly concentrated. From a vintage rated as 'good', let's see how this 2022 Monastrell-based red wine from Jumilla, Spain, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL GORU GOLD MAD HAIRY FELLA MONASTRELL / SYRAH / CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - Vegan, DOP Jumilla, Spain (#13621) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of approximately 80% Monastrell (Mourvèdre), 10% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose of ripe dark fruit, black plum, blackberry, and peppery spice aromas nuanced with subtle oak, earth, and violet. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has ripe black fruits, blackberry, black plum, spice, and violet aroma replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the supple tannins have a pleasing, fine-grained texture. Slightly grippy with dark berry, purple fruit, earth, and smoky oak notes on the long, balanced finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A few other delicious wines by Ego Bodegas are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Jerzu Antichi Bantu Cannonau di Sardegna 2023 (Sardinia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cannonau di Sardegna (a.k.a. Garnacha/Grenache from Sardinia) that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO and was part of the feature on wines from Sardinia in the August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jerzu Antichi Poderi, one of Sardinia's historically significant co-operative wineries, with deep roots in the viticultural traditions of the region that go back to the 12th century. While the cooperative itself was formally established in 1950, when a group of 18 winegrowers came together with a shared passion for wine, its history is rooted in the generations of grape growers who cultivated the vineyards of Jerzu and passed their knowledge from one generation to the next.

Today, Antichi Poderi Jerzu is made up of 408 members, all committed to fuelling a history that continues to move forward. Together, the member families tend 460 hectares of vineyards across a territory spanning 593 km² in Sardinia, the rugged Mediterranean island off Italy's western coast. Their vineyards range in elevation from 30 metres to a fairly lofty 786 metres above sea level.

Sardinia offers an extraordinarily diverse combination of hills and plains, coastal regions and inland areas, with considerable variation in topography and mesoclimate. The combination of Mediterranean maritime influences, cooling breezes, varied elevations and diverse soils and bedrock—including free-draining sands and gravels—creates highly favourable conditions for viticulture. With centuries of French and Spanish influence, the island is home to many important indigenous and international varieties, with Cannonau and Vermentino among its most important and widely planted grapes.

Antichi Poderi Jerzu is situated within the commune of Jerzu, in the province of Ogliastra, on the eastern side of Sardinia. The rugged terrain between the coast and the mountains has a long association with viticulture, particularly Cannonau, the local name for the grape commonly known elsewhere as Grenache or Garnacha. In 1972, Cannonau di Sardegna received DOC status, with Jerzu becoming one of the denomination's historically important production areas.

The co-operative winery has also been actively involved in partnerships with authoritative and recognized institutes to deepen the understanding of its territory. These studies have resulted in the identification of nine distinct sub-areas within Jerzu, each with its own particular characteristics, helping the cooperative to develop a more nuanced collection of Cannonau di Sardegna wines that express the diversity of the local terroir.

As a specialist in Cannonau (and, to some extent, Vermentino), Jerzu Antichi Poderi produces a range of wines across five distinct wine ranges, with this Bantu coming from its Selezione range. The grapes for this 100% Cannonau were grown in the Jerzu area. The vines average 20 years of age and are planted on calcareous-schist soils at approximately 400 metres above sea level, with southwest exposure.

To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested when they reached an optimal balance between acidity and sugars, typically in mid-September. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were destemmed and crushed, followed by eight days of maceration in stainless-steel tanks. After fermentation, the wine remained in stainless steel for 10 months of maturation, followed by a further six months in 200 hL oak barrels in order to preserve the freshness of the fruit.

The climate in Sardinia can vary quite substantially depending on where you are located. In the northeastern part of the island, there was very little to no rain throughout the season, while the summer months were warm and arid, which resulted in an early and healthy harvest. Let's see how this 2023 Cannonau di Sardegna from Sardinia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JERZU ANTICHI BANTU CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA 2023 - DOC, Sardinia, Italy (#51716) (XD) - $19.95
100% Cannonau di Sardegna (a.k.a. Garnacha/Grenache). The lifted, medium-high intensity nose has plummy, wild berry, dark red cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate aromas mingling with rustic earth, Mediterranean herbs and spice notes. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and lively with fresh acidity lifting the spicy, peppery, wild berry, plum, Mediterranean herbs, cherry, earth, and pomegranate flavours. Pleasing bitter notes add a savoury component on the mid-palate, while the ripe and fine tannins have some youthful, chalky grip on the back palate. Nicely balanced flavours of spice, Mediterranean herbs, and wild berry taper to schisty minerals on the long, savoury finish. Quite unique and a recommended buy to enjoy over the coming 5 years! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Jerzu Antichi Poderi can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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Byron & Harold Rags to Riches Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 (Margaret River) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River in Western Australia and made its debut at the LCBO in the August 1 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Byron & Harold, a wine company that was founded in the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia in 2012 by Paul Byron and Harold (Ralph) Dunning. After a combined 60+ years in the fine wine business, Paul and Ralph came together to create Byron & Harold with a solemn pledge to find, package, and share the wine they love with all who share their appreciation of the romance, the history, the sheer pleasure fine wine brings to a shared meal.

Based in Western Australia, Byron & Harold focuses on producing wines from Margaret River and Great Southern, cool-climate winegrowing regions that benefit from their southerly latitudes and strong maritime influences. The winemaking philosophy at Byron & Harold begins in the vineyard as they seek out the best parcels of fruit in Western Australia in order to craft wines that wine lovers want to drink. Wines are crafted with flavours that are true to their variety and have provenance that reflects their origins.

Today, Margaret River is known for its outstanding viticulture, wine production, and international tourism, and as the leading wine region of Western Australia, it is respected and enjoys a reputation that is recognised around the world. Situated along the westerly coastal strip of southwestern Australia, Margaret River enjoys a Mediterranean-influenced maritime climate, with average annual rainfall of roughly 1,100 mm and the moderating influence of the Indian Ocean. The region's ideal winegrowing conditions include good winter rains to replenish soil moisture, warm summer days, long sunshine hours, and cooling sea breezes during the ripening period. This combination of maritime influences and diverse, well-drained soils helps produce consistently high-quality fruit with intense flavours.

This Cabernet Sauvignon is from Byron & Harold's "Rags to Riches" collection, a range of premium wines crafted using fruit from their vineyards in Margaret River. The name pays homage to the immigrants who arrived in Margaret River after the First World War. The Western Australian Government encouraged migrants to settle in the region and establish farms, and by 1922, more than 100 settlers had arrived. From humble beginnings and the challenges of carving out a living from the native bushland, Margaret River has evolved into one of Australia's—and the world's—most respected winegrowing regions, making the "Rags to Riches" name particularly fitting.

To craft this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the fruit was harvested during the cool hours of the early morning. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were delicately crushed into static fermenters and inoculated with cultured yeast to begin fermentation. To extract colour, flavour, and tannins, while also encouraging aeration, pump-overs were conducted twice daily. After fermentation was complete, the wine was aged in French oak barriques until September 2024. The various parcels were then blended in tank and allowed to settle before undergoing light fining and filtration prior to bottling.

The 2023 vintage in Margaret River featured optimal, dry conditions, and mild weather that allowed for gentle and consistent ripening across all varieties. Budburst and vine development were delayed by about two to three weeks due to lower-than-average winter temperatures, but good fruit set resulted in healthy, and ultimately higher, yields. Although the spring growing season started slowly, summer brought glorious conditions, with consistent warmth in January allowing vine development to catch up. Ideal ripening conditions, combined with minimal disease pressure, produced inky, dense, and intense Cabernet Sauvignons with very fine tannin structure. Described as a once-in-a-decade vintage of the highest quality, let's see how this 2023 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BYRON & HAROLD RAGS TO RICHES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Vegan, Margaret River, Western Australia (#50142) (XD) - $23.95
Screw cap enclosure. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has lovely, fragrant, and open aromatics of medium-high to high intensity featuring ripe black & red currants, grilled herbs, blackberry, black cherry, evergreen, smoky oak, graphite, and spice aromas with earthy undertones in a complex profile. On the dry, ripe, and medium-full bodied palate it has plummy, black currant, black cherry, blackberry, evergreen herbs, oak spice, graphite, and savoury earth flavours, all supported by fresh and juicy acidity. Smooth, ripe tannins have good structure and a slightly youthful mouthfeel. Well-balanced throughout with sweet fruit notes on the mid-palate leading to graphite, spice, and savoury earth on the long, balanced finish. Enjoy into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Byron & Harold can be ordered through their Agent - Kylix Wines.

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Planeta Frappato 2024 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this excellent, organic Frappato from the Sicilia Vittoria DOC in Sicily that arrived at the LCBO after a one-year absence. It was featured as part of the thematic on wines from Italy's islands of Sicily (and Sardinia) in last weekend's August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Planeta, a family-owned winery that ranks among Sicily's most respected and influential wine producers. Over the course of more than 500 years and 17 generations, the Planeta family has established deep roots on the island, playing an important role in the agricultural evolution of Sicily's diverse and complex landscapes.

The approach at Planeta leans towards openness and innovation, with the family's most recent history beginning in the early 1900s when Grandfather Vito transformed the small, family winery in Menfi, in western Sicily, into a thriving co-operative in a remarkably short period, laying the foundation for future growth and new opportunities. Today, Planeta operates six estates across Sicily, each chosen to express the unique character of its respective terroir.

The family's journey to Vittoria began in the late 1990s with the restoration of the historic Dorilli estate, centred around a grand country house on land long associated with the Planeta family. The first vineyards were planted in 1997, and the estate has since become the family's home for producing wines from Vittoria's distinctive red sandy soils. Rich in history and agricultural tradition, Vittoria has long held a special place in the family's story—so much so that earlier generations debated whether Vittoria or Menfi was the better place to cultivate vines.

Today, Planeta is led by two generations of the family—brothers and sisters, along with their children, nieces, and nephews—who share a common vision rooted in collaboration, respect for the land, and environmental stewardship. Their commitment to sustainable viticulture and thoughtful winemaking has earned Planeta an international reputation for producing wines that faithfully express the remarkable diversity of Sicily's terroirs.

I was first introduced to this wine five years ago with the 2018 Planeta Frappato, and it has been a consistently recommended buy ever since. Frappato is a rare variety planted mainly in Sicily and has a close genetic relationship to Sangiovese. There are only approximately 1,000 hectares of vines planted to Frappato, with Planeta cultivating theirs according to sustainable and organic standards in the red sands of Vittoria, where it reaches its ultimate expression, not far from the sea.

First crafted in the 2013 vintage, this red wine is crafted with 100% Frappato that was grown at Planeta's Mogli vineyard in the district of Acate in southeastern Sicily. The vineyard is situated at 70 metres above sea level and planted on sandy textured soils that are the main characteristics of the Vittoria area. Furthermore, the soil consists mainly of loose red sands with a structure of small dimension, moderately deep, and a layer of tufa that lies at about 90 cm, which crucially helps with water capacity and balancing of the water in the plants.

To vinify this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested and transported to the winery in small trolleys, after which they were destalked and pressed, then transferred into 114 hL and 150 hL stainless steel tanks. The grapes were stirred three times a day with very short pump overs of 10–20 minutes according to the phase of fermentation, as well as to protect the skins and fruit as much as possible. It was cool-fermented at the beginning, then raised to about 24°C to allow the final alcohol level to develop. After completing fermentation, the skins remain in contact with the wine for 10–13 days, then racked off. Malolactic fermentation was completed, followed by maturation, all in the same stainless steel tanks.

While the 2024 vintage in Sicily was characterized by a drop in yields, drought, high temperatures, and an early harvest, quality did not suffer as good ripeness levels were attained. It is considered to be a good to excellent vintage with exceptionally healthy fruit that produced balanced wines. In the Vittoria area of southeastern Sicily, the vintage is considered to be excellent as Frappato is suited to areas with low rainfall, along with the significant diurnal temperatures between night and day and cooling sea breezes. Let's see how this 2024 Frappato from Vittoria in Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PLANETA FRAPPATO 2024 - DOC Sicilia Vittoria, Italy (#508655) (XD) - $23.95
100% Frappato and certified organic, this has a fresh, fragrant, and medium-high+ intensity nose offering attractive dark red berried cran-cherry, strawberry, and red plum aromas mingling with fine spices, peppercorn, earth, mineral, plus a hint of blood orange adding further complexity. It's light-to-medium bodied on the dry palate with lovely cran-cherry, red berry, strawberry, red plum, savoury earth, and dried spice flavours. Some bitter notes appear on the mid-palate, while acids are crisp and fresh. Present and well-structured tannins offer a somewhat chalky textured mouthfeel. It's well-balanced with dark red cherry and spice notes tapering to earth and minerals on the long, savoury finish. Should drink nicely over the coming 5-6 years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Several wines by Planeta are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2021 (McLaren Vale) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely Grenache from the McLaren Vale in Australia. It arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature on Summer Smart Buys in the July 18th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by d'Arenberg, a renowned and well-respected winery that was established in 1912 by Joseph Osborn in the McLaren Vale wine region of South Australia. With a long and rich history of winemaking, d'Arenberg has been passed down from one generation to the next and is currently led by Chester Osborn, the fourth generation of the Osborn family, who became Chief Winemaker at the family estate in 1984.

Today, the focus at d'Arenberg is to encourage each vineyard to showcase its personality by practicing viticulture and winemaking with minimal intervention. This is implemented by time-honoured techniques such as open fermentation, foot treading, and basket pressing, which allow the personality of the vineyard to shine. Furthermore, all d'Arenberg estate owned and leased vineyards are ACO Certified for organic and biodynamic processes. By using natural and environmentally friendly processes, this encourages strong root systems that penetrate the soil, which results in lively tannin structures, soil characters, and fine minerality. The environment, sustainability, and community are core values at d'Arenberg as they aim for net carbon zero by 2035 and pass on a sustainable business to the next generation.

Winemaking at d'Arenberg begins with Chester walking the vineyard rows and tasting grapes in order to classify and determine the ideal picking time for each individual vineyard. McLaren Vale is home to some of the oldest vines in the country, with some dating as far back as 1850. McLaren Vale also has a Mediterranean climate with a huge array of soil types, while its proximity to the ocean and cooling sea breezes make it an idyllic location for winegrowing. At the winery, each wine, from entry level to iconic, undergoes basket pressing, with all red ferments foot trod during fermentation, a labour-intensive action that is controlled, extremely gentle, and yields quality results. Importantly, all parcels remain separate until final blending.

The name of this wine comes from a time during the 1980s vine pull scheme when d'Arry Osborn refused to remove his old Grenache vineyards. Today, as keeper of nearly one-third of McLaren Vale's old bush vine Grenache, d'Arenberg has earned the title of "Custodian" of the variety.

To craft this 100% Grenache wine, small batches of grapes were gently crushed and transferred into open fermenters, after which foot treading was undertaken two-thirds of the way through fermentation. The wine was then basket-pressed and transferred into old French oak to complete fermentation and mature. The basket-fermented wine was then aged on its lees for 9 months, without any racking until final blending. After blending, it was bottled without undergoing any fining or filtration.

In McLaren Vale, the 2021 growing season began with a wet winter and spring that replenished soil moisture before a hot, dry November naturally reduced yields. Well-timed February rain refreshed the vines, while warm conditions accelerated ripening, resulting in one of the earliest harvests on record. Mild, dry autumn weather, punctuated by a few warm days in late March and early April, allowed Grenache and other late-ripening varieties to reach full maturity. From a vintage that produced both quantity and quality, along with it being considered as one of the best vintages of this century, let's see how this 2021 Grenache from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

D'ARENBERG THE CUSTODIAN GRENACHE 2021 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#713040) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Grenache has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that seems a bit tight, with deep aromas of red & black raspberry, black cherry, dried herbs, and toasted nut notes nuanced with peppery spice, stony minerals, and a touch of red florals adding further interest and complexity. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it has fresh and lively acidity, alongside ripe, fine-grained tannins with good structure. It has lovely red & black raspberry, black cherry, dried herb, peppery spice, and savoury mineral flavours. Well-balanced with juicy acids on the mid-palate leading to savoury, earthy mineral, and toasted nut notes with a slightly chalky texture on the long finish. Should dink nicely over the coming half dozen+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A couple of wines by d'Arenberg are widely available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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Cellier des Dauphins Réserve Côtes du Rhône 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Réserve Côtes du Rhône, a blend of Grenache and Syrah that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the July 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône (UVCdR), a co-operative winery founded in 1965 in the southeastern French region of Drôme Provençale by a group of local grower co-operatives. Today, UVCdR unites approximately 2,300 winegrowing families across the Southern Rhône Valley, cultivating more than 12,000 hectares of vineyards to produce wines from numerous Rhône Valley appellations, including several Crus.

As one of the Rhône Valley's largest wine producers, UVCdR has become one of the region's leading co-operative groups, with Cellier des Dauphins serving as its flagship brand. Introduced in 1967, Cellier des Dauphins has grown into one of the Rhône Valley's best-known wine brands, built on the co-operative values of its founding growers. The brand reflects a commitment to quality from vine to glass, while celebrating the collective spirit that has united generations of Rhône winegrowers. Its name—"Cellar of the Dolphins"—pays tribute to the historic Dauphiné region, which bordered the Rhône Valley in southeastern France.

In the vineyard, Cellier des Dauphins growers work their vineyards every day with concrete actions in favour of biodiversity. Their winegrowers have converted 3,000 hectares to High Environmental Value (HVE) certification, and 1,350 hectares to organic agriculture. Cellier des Dauphins is also committed to eco-design of packaging and is constantly seeking sustainable solutions to packaging, along with waste reduction and preserving natural resources.

I last enjoyed this delicious Rhône red when the 2019 Cellier des Dauphins Réserve landed at the LCBO five years ago, and while that vintage was predominantly (90%) Grenache with Syrah playing a very small role, the 2023 blend shifts to 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. The grapes were selected from their best terroir in the villages of Richerenche, Vinsobres, Puyméras, Tulette, and Saint Maurice. The vineyards are situated at altitude in the lower Pré-Alpes north of Mont Ventoux, on terraces with a cooler climate where the sunny Mediterranean climate is cooled by the Mistral winds. The soil on these terraces is composed of clay limestone formed of sedimentary rock and pebbles. To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested when extra ripe to obtain maximum aromatic concentration and natural mellowness. It was traditionally vinified with the must macerating for two weeks at a controlled temperature, followed by extended wood ageing.

In 2023, the growing season began with a very dry start from January to March, which resulted in a relatively late budburst in early April. The Mistral winds blew frequently during the period between budburst and flowering—precisely when growers would have preferred calmer conditions. On the bright side, there were welcoming rains in May and June, followed by a warm and arid summer, which climaxed to 43°C in late August, which led to some grapes suffering sunburn and maturation issues. Rain at the end of August allowed the vines to recover and the grapes to resume ripening, although the fierce heat remained until the end of the month. This was a season that suited vines grown on clay soils (under rolled pebbles). The early harvest wasn't particularly good for Grenache as sugar ripening had often got ahead of phenolic ripening, which may help explain the increased proportion of Syrah in this vintage for this wine. Despite the challenges, this is a good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Côtes du Rhône red is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CELLIER DES DAUPHINS RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2023 - AOC, France (#14081) (XD) - $16.95
This blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a medium+ intensity nose that takes some coaxing to reveal a fine mix of ripe black raspberry, garrigue, peppery spice, and black cherry aromas with warm stones and scorched earth notes adding further complexity. The medium to medium+ bodied palate is dry with ripe, plummy, dark cherry, black raspberry, black cherry, blackberry, and peppery spice flavours nuanced with meaty, scorched earth, and stony minerals. It's supported by fresh, lively, and slightly tangy acidity, along with grainy textured tannins with good structure. Nicely balanced throughout with savoury black raspberry and scorched earth notes lingering on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A few wines by UVCdR bearing the "Dauphins" name are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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