Domaine La Décelle Réserve Valréas Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages from Valréas in the Southern Rhône that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the October 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

The wines of Domaine La Décelle are produced by Maison LAVAU, a well-respected wine producer situated near the village of Sablet, at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills in the Southern Rhône Valley. The Lavau family's winemaking heritage dates back to the 19th century in Saint-Émilion. After returning to France from Tunisia in the 1960s, the family took charge of a small winemaking cellar in Sablet, at the heart of the Rhône Valley.

Maison LAVAU was established in 1965 by Jean-Guy Lavau and his wife Anne-Marie, and went on to become an important player in the local wine industry. Their sons, brothers Frédéric and Benoît Lavau, joined the family winery after completing their studies and took over the business in 2000 when their parents retired. In 2010, the brothers fell in love with the terroir at Domaine La Décelle and purchased the estate.

Domaine La Décelle is situated in the heart of the Enclave des Papes, a small part of the Vaucluse department situated in Drôme provençale, south of the village of Valréas. The 100-hectare estate has distinctive characteristics due to its latitude and altitude, creating unique climatic conditions that are ideal for producing structured and complex wines with great freshness. The vineyards encompass different sectors of Valréas, with elevations reaching up to 320 metres above sea level. The cooler climate and significant diurnal temperature variation help preserve freshness, while the southwest-facing vines benefit from abundant sunshine. The vineyards are planted on varied soil types, including clay-limestone and sandy soils, and are cultivated according to the principles of reasoned agriculture.

Like the 2017 Domaine La Décelle Réserve Valréas I enjoyed some years ago, this red wine is crafted with 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah grown at the estate on clay-limestone soils. It was traditionally vinified using rack-and-return (délestage) and regular pump-overs (remontage), followed by a relatively long 30-day maceration. The wine was then aged for 6 months in previously used French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southern Rhone was marked by extreme heat and drought conditions. Spring was very dry with only 50 mm of rain from March to May, while an early Summer was even dryer with hot and arid conditions. Welcoming rainfall in the middle of August saved the vines and helped produce red wines that are lush, balanced, supple, and lively. From a disease-free vintage that was the hottest and driest on record since 1950, and produced great wines, let's see how this 2022 Valréas Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

The 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône was marked by extreme heat and drought conditions. Spring was particularly dry, with only 50 mm of rainfall from March to May, while early summer brought further hot and arid conditions. Welcome rainfall in mid-August helped the vines recover and contributed to the production of red wines that are described as lush, balanced, supple and lively. The Despite being disease-free and the hottest and driest since 1950, the 2022 vintage has proven excellent, with remarkable balance and quality. Let's see how this 2022 Valréas Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE LA DÉCELLE RÉSERVE VALRÉAS CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AOC, France (#14391) (XD) - $16.95
This 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah has a delicate, medium+ intensity nose offering ripe dark fruit, black raspberry, blackberry, plum, black pepper, meaty, savoury earth, and stony mineral aromas. On the dry, medium+ bodied, dense, and well-structured palate it has delicious dark fruit, black raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, black pepper, meaty, and earthy/stony mineral flavours joined by hints of lavender/violet and garrigue adding interest and complexity. It has fresh and lively acidity, along with smooth, supple, and well-structured tannins. Juicy and well-balanced throughout, with dark berry, peppery spice, meaty, and smoky mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Domaine La Décelle can be ordered through their Agent - Marchands des Amériques.

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Kew Marsanne/Viognier 2024 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this excellent blend of Marsanne and Viognier from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO in today's October 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the feature on wines to stock up on for the holidays.

It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery focused on small-batch wine production situated on the Beamsville Bench in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula. Kew Vineyards is housed in a 160+ year old homestead that was built by William Kew sometime in the mid-1800s. The Kew family lived in the home and operated a successful carriage making company from the house. Historically, the Kew homestead was known for mixing business with pleasure.

It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery focused on small-batch wine production situated on the Beamsville Bench in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula. Kew Vineyards is housed in a homestead dating back more than 160 years that was built by William Kew sometime in the mid-1800s. The Kew family lived in the home and operated a successful carriage-making company from the property, making the historic homestead a place where business and country life came together.

In the 1970s, the Kew family's chapter ended and a new one began when Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own vine clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines surrounding the former Kew homestead. This marked the beginning of Kew Vineyards and, as a result, Mr. Weis also became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region.

Kew Vineyards has changed hands several times over the years and is currently owned by Arterra Wines Canada, which acquired the historic homestead and its 80+ acres of land, including vineyards, in 2023. The philosophy at Kew Vineyards is not only about beautiful wine, but also gracious country hospitality. The winery offers an opportunity to go off the beaten path, take your time, and enjoy the surroundings, blending old-world elegance with new-world charm. The wines at Kew Vineyards are an expression of passion for winemaking, the land, and the way wine celebrates daily life. In early 2024, Phillip Brown was named estate winemaker at Kew Vineyards.

I last enjoyed the 2020 Kew Marsanne, which included a splash of Viognier. In the 2024 vintage, it is composed of nearly equal parts of the two grapes, with the exact blend being 53% Marsanne and 47% Viognier. Kew Vineyards prides itself on its unique vineyard, which includes some of the oldest vines in Ontario, as well as a few varietals that are rarely grown in the region. The Marsanne vines, which are rare to find in Ontario, are particularly special as they remain unique to Kew and continue to thrive despite the cool climate and the challenges it presents.

The 2024 growing season in Niagara had near-perfect conditions, beginning with a mild winter and no spring frost events. Spring was warmer than usual, resulting in an early start to the season and early bud break. Summer was marked by above-average temperatures, with warm days and warmer-than-usual nights. The reduced diurnal temperature range contributed to grapes with intense flavours and colour development. During harvest in September, warm temperatures and some humidity linked to extreme weather events created disease risk for white varieties that had not yet been picked. From a very good-to-excellent vintage, let's see how this 2024 Marsanne/Viognier blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KEW MARSANNE/VIOGNIER 2024 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#485334) (XD) - $22.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this blend of 53% Marsanne and 47% Viognier is rich and highly fragrant with lovely, ripe, lemon citrus, yellow & white florals, apple, and winter melon aromas flecked with anise, fennel, herbal complexity, plus hints of wood spice and vanilla. On the dry, full-ish bodied palate it is richly concentrated, ripe, and gently honeyed with delicious lemon citrus, apple, yellow & white floral, anise, herbs, and peppery spice flavours with hints of vanilla adding further complexity. There's some warmth on the finely textured mid-palate, while acids are juicy and well-structured. The lemon citrus, apple, floral, and herbal flavours are joined by touches of leesy minerals on the exceptionally long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Several lovely wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara, as well as through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Lealtanza Reserva 2005 (Rioja) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2019 Altanza Reserva over the weekend, for tonight's red wine review we go back in time to revisit an earlier vintage of this wine – the 2005, which I purchased from the May 26, 2012 LCBO VINTAGES Release, where it was featured on the cover and known as Lealtanza Reserva. The tasting note in the catalogue suggested that it was best enjoyed by 2025.

Tasting Note:

LEALTANZA RESERVA 2005 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#276097) (XD) - $19.95
100% Tempranillo aged for 18 months in French oak, followed by 18 months in bottle prior to release. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose has mature, tertiary aromas of dark red cherry, savoury earth, and wood with hints of sweet baking spice and red plum. The medium+ bodied palate is dry and savoury with earth and wood spice notes flecked with dried red cherry and floral. Acids are still quite fresh, while the textured tannins have integrated very nicely. Gains weight on the juicy, textured mid-palate, while faint remnants of sweet/dried red fruits taper to savoury earth and barrel spice notes on the long and juicy finish. Still exceptionally balanced and an enjoyable experience. Score: 90+ pts

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Altanza Reserva 2019 (Rioja) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a excellent, vegan-friendly Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain, that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in last weekend's October 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bodegas Altanza, a modern winery founded in 1998 by a group of winegrowers committed to producing premium Tempranillo wines that combine Rioja's winemaking heritage with a distinctive, contemporary style. Altanza is located in the higher elevation town of Fuenmayor, in the heart of Rioja Alta, one of the region's most prestigious wine-growing areas.

Rioja Alta is renowned for producing elegant, age-worthy wines, benefiting from a distinctive climate, diverse soils, and long-standing viticultural traditions. Altanza's philosophy is built around four defining pillars: Estate Vineyards, Tradition and Innovation, Tempranillo Expertise, and French Oak Ageing. The winery combines careful estate vineyard management with modern winemaking techniques to craft wines with complete control from vine to bottle, while expressing the character of the region. Tempranillo, Rioja's flagship grape variety, lies at the heart of Altanza's identity, while French oak has been central to its ageing philosophy since the winery's founding. Its cellar houses nearly 6,000 oak barrels, supporting the production of refined wines with complexity, structure, and ageing potential.

Today, the Valvarés Estate in Fuenmayor is home to the winery, surrounded by approximately 200 hectares of vines planted primarily to Tempranillo and Sauvignon Blanc, along with 8 hectares of olive groves dedicated to producing 100% Arbequina extra virgin olive oil. The vineyards are divided into 10 parcels, each selected for its distinctive geographical orientation, soil composition, and microclimate, helping to capture the diversity of the estate. Sustainability is also an integral part of the winery's operations. Altanza works to reduce its environmental impact and preserve the surrounding landscape, notably through its own geothermal energy system, which provides renewable energy, and an on-site water treatment facility. All of its wines are vegan-friendly.

This Reserva comes from Altanza's Esenciales ("Essentials") range, which sits at the heart of the winery's portfolio and includes wines that showcase its signature Rioja style. Positioned between the Crianza and Gran Reserva in the range, the Reserva emphasizes the balance, elegance, and character that define the winery's approach. The Esenciales wines are among Altanza's most recognized and best-selling offerings.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this wine, including the 2016 Altanza Reserva three years ago. Made from 100% Tempranillo, it is vinified using a combination of traditional Rioja practices and modern winemaking techniques. The wine spends 18 months ageing in French oak barrels, followed by a further three months in 22-hectolitre Allier French oak foudres. This extended maturation allows the oak and fruit to integrate while adding complexity and depth.

The 2019 growing season in Rioja was declared a perfect year. It began with a relatively cold spring, with enough rainfall and occasional frost, resulting in irregular flowering, loose and well-aerated bunches with fewer berries, and lower-than-average yields. Summer was warm and stable throughout, with little disease pressure. Rainfall during the harvest period refreshed the vines, helping produce grapes with fully ripe skins and good acidity levels. The resulting wines show depth and power, balanced by finely textured, rounded tannins. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2019 Tempranillo Rioja from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALTANZA RESERVA 2019 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $22.95
Crafted with 100% Tempranillo, this has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers a fine mix of sandalwood, sweet oak spice, and cinnamon mingling with red cherry and maturing hints of dried rose, dried cherry, balsamic, and savoury earth. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it has lovely, complex sandalwood, leather, savoury earth, balsamic, red cherry, rose floral, cinnamon, and sweet spice flavours in a nicely balanced and slightly maturing profile. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the smooth, elegant tannins are well-integrated. Gently grippy on the mid-palate, while earthy oak, sweet spice, cinnamon, and dried cherry/floral notes linger on the very long, elegant, and juicy finish. Could age further, but is very enjoyable now. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Altanza can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Estévez Versos de Valtuille Mencía 2024 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Mencía from the DO Bierzo appellation in Spain that made its debut at the LCBO over the long weekend as part of the October 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos, a small, family-owned winery with a winemaking heritage dating back to the late 19th century. While the modern winery was established by Helios Estévez in 2015, its roots go back to his great-grandfather, Ramón, who acquired vineyards in Valtuille de Abajo, Bierzo, in northwestern Spain, in the late 1800s using money earned while working in Brazil.

In the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, the family settled in Mexico. Helios later emigrated to Mexico to join his father, who had been exiled there. During his time in Mexico, Helios worked in the vineyards while developing a strong desire to return to Bierzo and continue his family's winemaking heritage. In 2015, that dream became a reality with the help of his wife and four children, as they established the family venture in the small village of Valtuille de Abajo.

The focus at Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is on caring for the old vineyards of Valtuille de Abajo. The winery works with six small, distinctive vineyard plots planted primarily with Mencía and Godello. Each offers its own characteristics in terms of soil composition, elevation and sun exposure, and all are tended to by hand. Along with three village-level wines, including this Mencía, Helios is particularly focused on producing single-vineyard wines that express the terroir of each site.

This red wine belongs to the village-level tier of Estévez's Versos de Valtuille range, which translates to "Verses from Valtuille." The name refers to the poetry Helios Estévez wrote while living in Mexico, expressing his longing for his ancestral home in Valtuille de Abajo, in Spain's Bierzo region. In much the same way, the wines of Versos de Valtuille are born in the heart of the village and seek to express its landscape, traditions, and history.

To craft this 100% Mencía, the grapes were selected from a blend of old vineyards in Valtuille de Abajo, with vines averaging 75 years of age and grown at elevations of 500–550 metres above sea level. The vineyards feature a diverse range of soils, including clay, slate, limestone, and pebbles. At the winery, the grapes underwent wild fermentation using indigenous yeasts in 7,500-litre French oak foudres, and remained in oak for 8 months of maturation.

In 2024, Spain's growing season had its share of highs and lows, with exceptionally heavy rainfall presenting significant challenges in some regions. However, the impact varied across the country. Situated in the province of Castile and León in northwestern Spain, Bierzo experiences a mix of cool Atlantic and warmer continental influences. Despite the challenges, the 2024 vintage produced fresh, precise wines in Bierzo. Let's see how this 2024 Mencía from Bierzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTÉVEZ VERSOS DE VALTUILLE MENCÍA 2024 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#50750) (XD) - $22.95
The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is ripe with wild dark berry, blackberry, black cherry, mulberry, and wild herb aromas layered over notes of savoury, earthy mineral, and spice. The crunchy, mid-weighted palate is dry with delicious wild dark berry, blackberry, wild herbs, black cherry, earthy mineral, and spice flavours in a clean, well-balanced profile. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the ripe tannins are smooth, refined, and gently grippy. Savoury, stony, and earthy notes linger on the long and juicy finish. Should drink nicely to the end of the decade and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

One ultra-premium wine by Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is available in very small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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October 10, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Perfect Gifts, Ready to Go

Here are my top wine picks from the October 10, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here), where “Perfect Gifts, Ready To Go” is the title of the release. This is a fairly large release compared to what we have seen recently, with 108 SKUs included and more red wines than any other colour or style. It is also on the premium side, as only 18 SKUs are priced below $20. Once again, there are many lovely wines, but be prepared to open your wallet. Everything should be readily available for purchase both online and in stores at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

We’ll begin with the feature story, “Perfect Gifts, Ready To Go,” which includes 17 SKUs focused primarily on multi-packs and large-format red wines ready for seasonal gift-giving. There are also some sparkling wines, Port, and Icewine. I’m sure that quite a few of the wines included in the multi-packs will be lovely, but my only recommendation from the feature story is a lovely Vidal Icewine from Niagara.

Among my top red wine recommendations from the main release, Bordeaux varieties account for nearly half of the wines. On the local front, we have a Meritage from Niagara composed of 48% Cabernet Franc, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot, while the Inniskillin wine is made with 100% Cabernet Franc. From Bordeaux, the Montagne-Saint-Émilion is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, while the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux is composed of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The only other blend among the reds is a Riserva Chianti Classico made with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Both wines from Spain are mono-varietal, with the Rioja crafted from Tempranillo and the Bierzo made from Mencía. Other mono-varietal reds include a fine Syrah from Niagara, as well as a pair of Pinot Noirs – one each from Martinborough (New Zealand) and Niagara.

My top white wine picks from the main release begin on the local front with a pair of lovely medium dry (i.e. slightly sweet) Rieslings from Niagara, followed by a gently off-dry Riesling from Germany. There’s also a fine, off-dry Gewürztraminer from Alsace. Moving on to the dry wines, there are a pair of lovely Chardonnays – one each from Chablis (Burgundy) and Yarra Valley (Australia). Other mono-varietal dry wines include a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre in the Loire Valley and an Alvarinho from Vinho Verde in Portugal. Interestingly, both of my remaining white wine recommendations are blends priced under $20, with the McLaren Vale white crafted using approximately 60% Viognier and 40% Marsanne, while the Sicilian white is a blend of 34% Catarratto, 31% Inzolia, 29% Grecanico, and 6% Chardonnay.

For sparkling wine lovers, there is a brilliant Grand Cru Champagne crafted with 100% Chardonnay. There are also a couple of lovely 10-Year-Old Tawny Ports from Portugal, both made with traditional Douro varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), and Tinta Barroca, while the Burmester also includes Tinto Cão. For sweet wine lovers, look to the iconic Botrytis Semillon from Australia or the Sauternes from Bordeaux, which is made with 90% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• PEACOCK'S FAN COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#50193) (XD) - $16.95
• MAJELLA THE COMPOSER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - Vegan, Coonawarra, South Australia (#50196) (XD) - $19.95
• CHÂTEAU TANESSE CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2022 - Sustainable, AOC, France (#666628) (XD) - $20.95  91 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2022 - AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $22.95  90+ pts  wine review
• ESTÉVEZ VERSOS DE VALTUILLE MENCÍA 2024 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#50750) (XD) - $22.95  90 pts  wine review
• ALTANZA RESERVA 2019 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $22.95  91 pts  wine review

• LUNA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2023 - Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#17544) (XD) - $27.95
• INNISKILLIN HERON POND SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#54145) (XD) - $39.95  91+ pts  wine review
• REDSTONE ESTATE SYRAH 2021 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#437376) (XD) - $40.95  OFE
• REDSTONE MERITAGE 2021 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#44167) (XD) - $48.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CASTELLO DI AMA MONTEBUONI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2022 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#30268) (XD) - $59.95  OFE
• BACHELDER LOWREY VINEYARD OLD VINES PINOT NOIR 2023 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#361816) (XD) - $65.00  OFE

White Wine:

• D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2025 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#662775) (XD) - $17.95
• TASCA D'ALMERITA REGALEALI BIANCO 2025 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#531780) (XD) - $18.95
• PIERRE SPARR GRANDE RÉSERVE GEWURZTRAMINER 2024 - AOC Alsace, France (#747600) (D) - $20.95  91 pts  wine review
• YERING STATION VILLAGE CHARDONNAY 2024 - Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#50188) (XD) - $24.95
• AVELEDA SOLOS DE XISTO ALVARINHO 2024 - Vegan, Sustainable, Vinho Verde, Portugal (#35465) (XD) - $24.95
• TRIUS SHOWCASE GHOST CREEK RIESLING 2024 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#44144) (M) - $28.95  OFE
• BATTENFELD SPANIER ZELLERTAL RIESLING 2022 - VDP Ortswein, Pfalz, Germany (#50721) (D) - $30.95
• CHARLY NICOLLE PER ASPERA CHABLIS 2023 - AOP, Burgundy, France (#38095) (XD) - $36.95  92 pts  wine review
• CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2022 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#241182) (M) - $39.95  94 pts  wine review
• SOPHIE BERTIN LA CÔTE BLANCHE SANCERRE 2024 - AOP, Loire, France (#50162) (XD) - $44.95  OFE

Sparkling Wine:

• SAINT-RÉOL BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE - AOC, France (#49869) (XD) - $77.95

Fortified Wine:

• BARROS 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#964353) (S) - $28.95
• BURMESTER 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#223958) (S) - $32.95  2013 btld. review

Dessert Wine:

• DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2021 - New South Wales, Australia (#917252, 375 mL) (S) - $29.95  OFE
• CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON 2022 - AOC Sauternes, Bordeaux, France (#17503, 375 mL) (S) - $40.95  OFE
• INNISKILLIN LUNAR NEW YEAR VIDAL ICEWINE 2024 - In gift box, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#53078, 375 mL) (S) - $53.95

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Château Tanesse Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's red wine review is an excellent red from the Right Bank appellation of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO in this weekend's October 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began in 1962, when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native Algeria to establish a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, in the Gironde department of Bordeaux.

The Gonfrier family's three sons – Pierre, Philippe, and Éric – grew up around the family enterprise, with Philippe becoming involved in managing the property at a very early age and Éric completing his first vinification in 1985, at the age of 23. In 1998, Philippe and Éric consolidated their wine activities, including their vineyard acquisitions, under the name Vignobles Gonfrier. Today, the group has a portfolio of more than 20 châteaux, state-of-the-art winemaking equipment and facilities, and vineyard operations spanning more than 1,000 hectares.

Today, Vignobles Gonfrier has more than 20 châteaux throughout Bordeaux and favours top-quality wines that express their terroir, with winemaking serving to ensure wine quality and client satisfaction. With a commitment to the environment, the group's estate vineyards are certified to High Environmental Value Level 3 (HVE3), while Vignobles Gonfrier is also in the process of converting a portion of its vineyards to organic agriculture. The group is further committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach and is certified by EcoVadis. The children of Philippe and Éric represent the third generation of the Gonfrier family now involved in the wine business. Thibault and Paul, the respective sons of Philippe and Éric, are involved in overseeing the family's vineyards, including Château Tanesse, which was acquired by Vignobles Gonfrier in 2004.

Château Tanesse is situated in the Langoiran district within the appellation of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. The appellation is nestled in the Grandes Côtes region, to the east of and along the Garonne River. The charterhouse that is Château Tanesse was built by the Tanesse family during the second half of the 18th century and is located on a high hillock among sloping vineyards. The property's 30 hectares of vineyards surround the historic estate and sit atop very old foundations, overlooking Langoiran's medieval 13th-century castle and offering panoramic views that stretch from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, following the meandering Garonne River.

Like the 2020 Château Tanesse I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted with 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown in the vineyards surrounding the property. The vines average 25 years old and are planted on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil. To craft this wine, the vines were trained using traditional Bordeaux-style vine training - with two canes and a flat arch. In the vineyard, there was controlled grassing down of the vine rows and/or mechanical working of the soil to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. Manual "green harvesting" was also performed in order for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while harvest at the end of the growing season was performed mechanically. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were underwent destemming, crushing, and vatting, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks. Due to the terroir's quality, it also underwent prolonged maceration to extract tannins. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season in Bordeaux was marked by heat and dry conditions, following a relatively dry winter and early spring growth. Spring frosts and June hailstorms damaged some vineyards, while July and August brought exceptionally hot, dry conditions. Older vines generally fared better thanks to their deeper root systems, and cool nights helped preserve freshness and acidity. Wildfires in parts of the region raised concerns about smoke taint, although the impact was limited. The heat accelerated ripening, leading to an unusually early harvest and reduced yields, but fruit quality was excellent. Merlot and Cabernet Franc performed particularly well, while Cabernet Sauvignon also excelled, albeit with the potential for higher alcohol levels. From what is regarded as a legendary vintage, let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TANESSE CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2022 - Sustainable, AOC, France (#666628) (XD) - $20.95
Blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose exudes richly concentrated and complex aromas of ripe dark fruit, black currant, black cherry, cassis, black plum, blackberry, dried herbs, and fine oak spice, plus whiffs of graphite, wet earth, and mulberry. On the dry, full-bodied palate it is richly structured and concentrated with lovely ripe dark fruit, blackberry, black cherry, cassis, currant, wood spice, graphite, savoury earth, and dried herbal flavours. It has juicy, structured acidity, along with ripe, richly textured, well-structured, mouth-coating tannins. A salty mineral mid-palate leads to smoke and graphite notes on the long, savoury, dusty textured, and very juicy finish. Should drink nicely for at least a decade, if not more. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

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