Featherstone Four Feathers 2024 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, vegan-friendly, and off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) white wine blend from Niagara that is crafted with mainly Riesling. It is a VINTAGES Essentials product that was featured in Local Talent in last weekend's March 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and this vintage should be readily available at most stores.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, a boutique, eco-conscious winery that was established by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson. The name "Featherstone" is an homage to the gourmet food shop named "Feather" which specialized in poultry that they once owned, and "stone" for the stone rock face and quarry adjacent to the vineyard. Featherstone is situated in Vineland, Ontario, among the rolling hills of the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. Featherstone prides itself on its eco-friendly farming practices, which have been in place since its founding in 1999.

In 2024, amidst its 25th anniversary, Featherstone began a new chapter as it was acquired by philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal, while Louise and Dave look forward to retirement after 25 successful years. Today, the Head Winemaker at Featherstone is Kevin Qin, a graduate of the Niagara College Winery & Viticulture program. Kevin joined Featherstone in 2014 and has grown alongside the winery ever since as he started out in retail and eventually moved into cellar operations and harvest leadership, while also assisting Dave in winemaking.

The philosophy at Featherstone remains the same - as both grape growing and winemaking are both scientific and intuitive processes - the wines of Featherstone reflect the special character of the grapes, as well as the artistry of the winemaker. In the vineyard, they work through the growing season to enhance the grapes' natural attributes, and then craft wines with minimal winemaking embellishments. Their goal is to produce limited amounts of small-lot wines so that they are able to practice hands-on, artisanal wine production.

As a local leader in eco-friendly farming practices, respect for the land is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and its site. Featherstone pioneered in Niagara the employment of a small flock of sheep to naturally eat their way through the grape leaves that need to be removed from the fruiting zone on the vines, while also fertilizing the soil as they move through the vineyard. Among the many sustainable practices, Featherstone takes care of their dirt by avoiding herbicides, planting cover crops, using organic compounds to control mould and mildew, managing bugs without the use of insecticides, and switching to a recycle sprayer. In 2023, Featherstone received its Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This certified sustainable white wine is a blend of precisely 60.1% Riesling, 18.2% Pinot Grigio, 12.6% Chardonnay, and 9.1% Gewurztraminer using grapes grown across the Niagara Peninsula. The grapes were both hand- and machine-harvested from Sept. 9th to Oct. 18th. After bringing the grapes to the winery, the juice was pressed and transferred into stainless steel tanks to undergo a temperature-controlled fermentation. It also underwent eight hours of juice fining and settling, then racked off its lees.

In 2024, the growing season in Niagara had perfect conditions from early bud break to the warm and late fall that allowed for a long hang time. While there was a slight hiccup in early fall due to moisture and disease pressure from rain that affected early-ripening and thin-skinned grapes, those that picked early were able to mitigate these pressures. From an exceptional vintage with plenty of ripeness and acidity, let's see how this 2024 Riesling-based blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE FOUR FEATHERS 2024 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#341586) (D) - $15.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this blend of 60.1% Riesling, 18.2% Pinot Grigio, 12.6% Chardonnay, and 9.1% Gewurztraminer has a delicate, medium+ intensity nose of ripe peach, lemon peel, and apple with hints of honey and floral. On medium+ bodied palate it is gently off-dry with good concentration and delicious poached peach, lemon peel, apple, honey, and floral replays joined by spice notes on the flavour profile. Acids are clean and well-balanced. Finishes crisp and dry with leesy and apple notes, with good length. Chill and enjoy this easy drinking, recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Parés Baltà V Brut Cava 2023 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a lovely, vegan, and organic Vintage Brut Cava. It is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving in-store and online in the recent March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and was also featured in the release as part of the thematic on Women in Wine.

It is produced by Parés Baltà, a well-respected and family-owned estate winery situated in the Penedes wine region of Spain, just 50 km south of Barcelona. The family has a long winemaking history that goes back to 1790, when the first vineyards were planted on the Parés Baltà estate, surrounding the manor house where the winery is located.

As the son of a family of winegrowers, Joan Cusiné Hill was born in 1917 in a small village in Penedes and dedicated his entire life to the cultivation of vines and creating the finest quality wines. During the 1980s, Joan Cusiné Cusiné, son of Joan Cusiné Hill, took over the winery and produced their first white wine that has become a classic at the winery. His wife, Maria Angels Carol, has always been by her husband’s side and supported him to get Parés Balta table wines and sparkling wines recognized and admired across the globe.

Today, Parés Baltà is led by the third generation of the Cusiné family. Brothers Joan and Josep head the winery with the unconditional help of their parents and their wives, María Elena and Marta, two women that fell in love with the brothers while learning about the world of wine. After working their first harvest, both women decided to study oenology at the University of Tarragona (Spain) and upon their return became lead winemakers at the winery, a position they have now held for more than 20 years. Their primary challenge was to combine tradition with innovation, ultimately sparking a revolution that converted their vineyards to organic and biodynamic certification in the span of a decade. Together, they have shared values and a vision that is invariably linked to respect for nature and care for their environment, a family legacy that was inherited from the first generation, Joan Cusiné Hill and Rosa Cusiné.

Faithful to their grandfather and father, the Cusiné brothers continue to produce high-quality organic and biodynamic table wines and sparkling wines with the premise of leaving the land that they inherited in peak condition for future generations. They continue to use their old cava cellar, which was constructed stone by stone at the beginning of the twentieth century. This cellar is located 10 metres underground and has a natural and constant temperature of 14–15ºC, conditions which are perfect for ageing cavas.

This sparkling wine is a blend of the three traditional grape varieties from Penedes: Parellada, Macabeu, and Xarel·lo. The Parellada comes from 59-year-old vines at Viñas del Pi and Viña de Cal Pons, on the foothills of the highest mountains of the Penedes - the Ancosa Mountains, between 610–635 metres above sea level, where loam and gypsum are the most highlighted components in the soil that was formed during the Triassic period. The Macabeu comes from 44-year-old vines at Vinyes de Macabeu, from the foothills of the Prelitoral Mountains at 230 metres above sea level, on loam soil with low permeability and good water retention, which makes it difficult to suffer from water stress and loss of aromatics. The Xarel·lo comes from 44-year-old vines grown in the Penedes Central Valley at 254 metres above sea level on loamy soils and continental sediments whose origins are from the Pleistocene and Holocene epochs of the Quaternary period. To this wine, Parellada contributes the floral freshness, which is preserved from its special microclimate, while Macabeu brings fruit and Xarel·lo provides the body to the final wine, and together, they complete this special cava.

As a 2023 vintage traditional method bubbly, this is crafted using a blend of 59% Parellada, 33% Macabeu, and 8% Xarel·lo. The grapes were hand-harvested from vineyards that were organically and biodynamically farmed. It underwent its first fermentation for two weeks in stainless steel tanks at 16°C. The wine underwent its second fermentation in bottle, following the traditional method, with a minimum ageing of 12 months, and without any oak ageing.

The vegetative cycle for this vintage begins in October 2022, when it had lower-than-usual rainfall and was the warmest October in history. The winter months were warm and wet, while drought set in from the end of February to the end of April, as there were 61 consecutive days without rain. May and June were warm and quite rainy, while July featured a heat spike that reached a record 40.2ºC. In August, there was an intense and persistent heat wave, while a short harvest was completed over about 7 weeks from August to September. This was a low-yielding vintage where, unusually, the red varieties ripened earlier than the white varieties. From an excellent vintage for sparkling wines, let's see how this 2023 Brut Cava from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PARÉS BALTÀ V BRUT CAVA 2023 - Vegan, Traditional Method, DO, Spain (#650648) (XD) - $17.95
This organic sparkling wine is a blend of 59% Parellada, 33% Macabeu, and 8% Xarel·lo with medium+ intensity aromatics offering enticing lemon, floral, apple, and autolytic notes with touches of peach and brioche. The mid-weighted palate is dry with a creamy mouthfeel and delicious pear, apple, lemon, floral, and autolytic flavours in a gently tangy profile. More savoury with leesy minerals on the mid-palate and touches of spice on the back-palate. Acids are bright and lively, while the mousse is well-balanced. Leesy mineral notes linger on the long, savoury finish. A delicious, highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Parés Baltà can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine les Evigneaux Cuvée Belle Dame Rasteau 2022 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Rasteau from the Southern Rhône that made its debut at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and was part of the feature on Women in Wine.

Domaine les Evigneaux is owned by Maison LAVAU, a well-respected producer situated near the village of Sablet, at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills in the Southern Rhône Valley. The Lavau family has been involved in winemaking for several generations and have built a reputation as one of the region's top winemakers thanks to their dedication to high-quality standards, attention to detail, and thirst for excellence. After completing their studies in Canada, brothers Frédéric and Benoît Lavau joined the family business, and by 2000 they took over the company as their parents decided to retire.

In 2013, the Lavau family formed a partnership with Bénédicte Bonnet, née Arnaud, and her husband, Charles, who brought along with them the historic Château Maucoil property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Bénédicte and the Lavau brothers have always been fans of Rasteau, which became a Cru in 2010, and have been making wines from this appellation for many years. In 2014, because of their special fondness for vineyards in Rasteau, they decided to acquire a few special and "atypical" vineyards in this area because of their outstanding exposure. In all, they acquired 10 hectares of vineyards consisting of 12 plots in Rasteau's most emblematic terroirs, which formed the plans to create a wine capable of delivering all the complexity and power of this extraordinary AOC, and would go on to become Domaine les Evigneaux.

The vineyards of Domaine les Evigneaux are perched upon a hill overlooking the Dentelles de Montmirail Mountains, with an uneven terrain that offers a great diversity of soils and a fascinating landscape. As you move from one terrace to another, depending on the slope, the soil changes from clay-chalk to blue marl, and from rounded pebbles to red marl. On the lower terraces, the soil is strewn with rounded pebbles that are perfect for Grenache, while the hillsides have poorer soils of clay-chalk, and sometimes almost sandy, which is equally good not only for Grenache, but also the region's other emblematic varietals: Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carignan, among others. The Domaine takes full advantage of this geological diversity and blends grapes from these different profiles to create complex wines which assure the reputation of the Rhône Valley Cru of Rasteau.

This red wine is proudly crafted by Bénédicte Bonnet, who comes from a winegrowing family. She is an independent and hands-on winemaker who personally directs every stage of production from vineyard cultivation to final blending to ageing, ensuring that each bottle reflects her uncompromising standards, vision, and expertise. Her work embodies the confidence, talent, and leadership of women redefining the Rhône's great terroirs.

All grown within the Rasteau appellation of the Southern Rhône Valley, this red wine is composed of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault. The Syrah vines are planted on gravel and clay soil of the Quaternary terraces of Bellerive, in the south of the appellation, where it is sunny and early ripening, conditions which are ideal for growing Syrah. The Grenache vines are planted to the north in cooler soils which accentuate the diurnal temperatures (the difference between day and night temperatures), resulting in grapes with enhanced colour and aromatics. The pebble and gravel soils where Grenache is planted are mixed with a complex clay, which allows for constant, even drainage, and water supply.

To vinifiy this wine, the grapes were 100% destemmed, then underwent a cold pre-fermentation maceration, followed by 28 days of maceration with pumping over and rack and return. It was aged for 12 months, with 70% in 228 L barrels from the François Frères cooperage in Burgundy and 30% in amphoras.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southern Rhône was marked by extreme conditions with intense heat and drought. The year began with a dry winter and very little rain, followed by a spring that warmed up rapidly. While April did experience a fleeting cold snap, temperatures continued to rise, with successful budburst and flowering. May was abnormally hot, while rain in June brought some relief. On a positive note, the heat and drought during the summer months kept rot and disease at bay. In August, humidity arrived and revived the vines, which greatly benefited the red grape varieties Grenache and Syrah. From a high quality vintage with superb wines, let's see how this 2022 Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE LES EVIGNEAUX CUVÉE BELLE DAME RASTEAU 2022 - AOP, Rhône, France (#47575) (XD) - $28.95
This blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault has a medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy, offering deep and warming aromas of ripe dark red wild berries, black cherry, kirsch, raspberry, garrigue, and spices with hints of stones, meaty, rose floral, and savoury earth. It's medium-full bodied, concentrated, and impressively structured on the dry palate with warming flavours of ripe raspberry, black cherry, garrigue, spices, stony mineral, meaty, and savoury earth. Acids are juicy and well-balanced, while the fine-grained tannins are structured with a slightly youthful grip. Warming, yet within balance, with wild berry, raspberry, garrigue, spice, and stony-smoky minerals on the long, savoury finish. Could pass for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. At 15% abv, chill and enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 91+ pts

At the moment, this is the only wine by Domaine les Evigneaux, but other wines down the line may be available through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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March 21, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Wines for Easter

Here are my top wine picks from the March 21, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here), where Wines & Recipes for Easter is the feature story of the release. In all, there are nearly 100 products offered in this release, with about 60% priced less than $25. While just over half the wines are red, I am a bit surprised that there were no rosés included in this release. Overall, I am satisfied with this release as there are a wide range of wines at various price points. Please also note that the next release is three weeks away on April 11th.

We'll begin with the feature on Excellent Wines & Recipes for Easter, and with twenty-two wines included as part of the thematic — nine are among my top wine recommendations. Among the whites, we go to the Southern Hemisphere with a Chardonnay from Australia, followed by the Auntsfield Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. From the Northern Hemisphere, there's an Assyrtiko from Greece, as well as the Soave from Italy, which is crafted with Garganega. Among the red wines, the only blend is Portuguese wine that is crafted with Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz. The mono-varietal wines for Easter pairings include a Gamay Noir from Niagara, a Malbec from Argentina, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile, and a Tempranillo from Spain.

At the top of the list among my red wine recommendations is the Rioja, which is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, and Mazuelo, followed by the Pauillac from Bordeaux that is 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. For Syrah wine lovers, the Syrah from Chile includes a dollop of Viognier, while the Vinsobres is a blend of Syrah and Grenache, while the South African version is 100% Syrah. Other blends include the wine from Greece that is crafted with 40% Mavrodaphne, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Agiorgitiko, and the Cabernet from Australia that is actually a blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Tempranillo. And lastly, the Bistro Rouge is crafted with 100% Grenache.

White wine picks from the main release begin in Austria with a fine Grüner Veltliner from Austria, followed by the Bellone from Lazio, Italy. There's also a trio of Sauvignon Blanc wines, with a couple from Marlborough in New Zealand, and one from Margaret River in Australia. White wine blends include the wine from Languedoc, which is a blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Viognier, while the off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) wine by Featherstone is a blend of 60.1% Riesling, 18.2% Pinot Grigio, 12.6% Chardonnay, and 9.1% Gewurztraminer.

There are also a couple of traditional method sparkling wines that are worth seeking out. The Champagne is crafted with approximately 50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 20% Meunier, while the bubbly from Nova Scotia is made with Chardonnay.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• PRAISE BISTRO ROUGE 2024 - Sustainable, IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France (#46339) (D) - $18.95  review coming soon...
• GLENELLY GLASS COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13316) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
• EMILIANA SIGNOS DE ORIGEN ORGANIC PINOT NOIR 2022 - Vegan, Sustainable, Valle de Casablanca, Chile (#325670) (XD) - $18.95
• EMILIANA SIGNOS DE ORIGEN ORGANIC SYRAH 2022 - Vegan, Sustainable, Valle de Casablanca, Chile (#212407) (XD) - $18.95
• ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP BLACKBERRY PATCH CABERNET 2021 - Vegan, Fleurieu, South Australia (#353193) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review

 

• CREMASCHI FURLOTTI GRAN RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2021 - Vegan, Sustainable, DO Valle del Loncomilla, Valle del Maule, Chile (#549741) (XD) - $19.95
• LICENCIADO RESERVA 2020 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#370023) (XD) - $19.95  review coming soon...
• BENGUELA COVE ESTATE SYRAH 2021 - Sustainable, WO Walker Bay, South Africa (#48604) (XD) - $19.95
• MEGA SPILEO CUVÉE III RED 2023 - PGI Achaia, Greece (#25708) (D) - $21.95  review coming soon...
• CHURCHILL'S GRAFITE DOURO RED 2021 - DOP, Portugal (#45407) (XD) - $21.95
• FAMILLE PERRIN LES CORNUDS VINSOBRES 2022 - AOC, Rhône, France (#566844) (XD) - $21.95

 

• CATENA PARAJE ALTAMIRA MALBEC 2023 - Sustainable, Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#492413) (XD) - $25.95
• BACHELDER WISMER-FOXCROFT SINGLE VINEYARD 32% WHOLE-CLUSTER GAMAY NOIR 2023 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#33994) (XD) - $33.00
• WESTCOTT ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2021 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#427500) (XD) - $33.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU PLANTEY PAUILLAC 2020 - Sustainable, AOC, Bordeaux, France (#38192) (XD) - $34.95  review coming soon...
• MUGA SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL 2020 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#472902) (XD) - $56.95

White Wine:

• FEATHERSTONE FOUR FEATHERS 2024 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#341586) (D) - $15.95  88 pts  wine review
• PRAISE BISTRO BLANC 2024 - Sustainable, IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France (#46876) (XD) - $18.95  review coming soon...
• CASALE DEL GIGLIO BELLONE 2023 - IGT Lazio Bianco, Italy (#45845) (XD) - $19.95  review coming soon...
• MOUNT RILEY LIMITED RELEASE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2025 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447425) (XD) - $19.95
• EVANS & TATE WILD CAPE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#41435) (XD) - $21.95
• AUNTSFIELD SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2025 - Sustainable, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#663286) (XD) - $21.95
• INAMA VIN SOAVE CLASSICO 2024 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#949768) (XD) - $23.95
• URBANIHOF CLASSIC GRÜNER VELTLINER 2024 - DAC Wagram, Austria (#49425) (XD) - $24.95  review coming soon...
• WHITEHAVEN GREG SINGLE VINEYARD RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325944) (XD) - $24.95
• CHÂTEAU JULIA ASSYRTIKO 2024 - Vegan, PGI Drama, Greece (#30608) (XD) - $29.95
• GIANT STEPS YARRA VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2024 - Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#243154) (XD) - $39.95

Sparkling Wine:

• LIGHTFOOT AND WOLFVILLE BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS SPARKLING 2019 - Traditional Method, Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia, Canada (#16075) (D) - $51.95
• PALMER LA RÉSERVE BRUT CHAMPAGNE - AOC, France (#39865) (XD) - $87.95  93 pts  wine review

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Maturana Parellon Natural Semillon 2024 (Chile) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2022 Maturana Puente Austral Gran Reserva Carmenère earlier this month, tonight's wine review is another fine and unique white wine crafted with Semillon that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the March 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Maturana Winery is a family-owned boutique winery that was established in 2010 after the great earthquake in Chile by the Maturana brothers, José Ignacio and Sebastian. The brothers had a great passion for viticulture and wine, and after the earthquake they decided that there was no time to waste in pursuing their passion.

The identity of Maturana is centred around innovation, differentiation, fair price, passion, rescue of heritage strains, and quality. They use innovation to capture the essence of each variety and specific location to bring them to their fullest potential by using diverse materials such as concrete in various sizes and shapes, clay amphorae, and French oak. Because Chile's wine industry has developed in the same way for decades, in a traditional and classic manner, Maturana welcomes the opportunity to be different. While supporting the natural management of vineyards, Maturana also responsibly pays their growers at a more-than-fair price of seven times the market price per kilo. Passion is the drug that keeps Maturana motivated, along with their commitment to showcasing old vineyards in central Chile, with some vineyards dating back to 1900. At the end, their mission is to produce wines of the highest quality, while also creating something unique.

Like the 2023 Maturana Naranjo Torontel Orange Wine I enjoyed last year, this wine is also one of Maturana's unique offerings. It is crafted with 100% Semillon that was grown in old vineyards in the Colchagua Valley Coast, in Paradones area in central Chile. It is uniquely crafted with 25% of the wine remaining in contact with its grape skins for four and a half months. Furthermore, 75% of the wine was aged in third-use French oak barrels for four and a half months.

The growing season in 2024 began with a very wet winter due to El Niño, which also contributed to a cool spring in the central regions. However, the lack of any summer heat spikes allowed for slow, even ripening and higher than normal acidity levels. From a high-quality vintage, let's see how this 2024 Semillon from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MATURANA PARELLON NATURAL SEMILLON 2024 - DO Valle de Colchagua Costa, Chile (#15745) (XD) - $28.95
The medium-high intensity nose has rich and concentrated aromas of ripe lemon citrus, grapefruit, toasty vanilla, and spice with touches of blossom, honey, and leesy notes. It's medium-full bodied on the dry and slightly creamy palate with lovely honeyed, lemon citrus, floral blossom, and melon flavours with leesy, smoky, and vanilla undertones. Touch spicy on the textured mid-palate, along with juicy and succulent acids. Spice and citrus notes taper to leesy and smoky minerals on the long, crisp, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Maturana can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Yalumba Galway Vintage Shiraz 2023 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Barossa Shiraz that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story about Women in Wine in the recent March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Yalumba, one of Australia's most historically important wineries. Recognized as Australia's oldest continuously family-owned winery, Yalumba was founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith when he planted his first vines in the heart of the Barossa with a genuine respect for the land and a willingness to venture into the unknown.

As Yalumba has always had a deep connection to the Barossa, their long-term vision is manifested in their marble and sandstone Clocktower - a solid monument that is their commitment to the region. Their passion is displayed by their Cooperage, which is the only one of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, where they continue a proud tradition of crafting barrels.

In 1893, Fred Caley Smith, the third generation of the family, took to the seas on a grand scientific discovery and returned with progressive horticultural developments that laid the foundation for sustainable viticulture and winemaking at Yalumba.

Today, Yalumba is in the hands of the fifth and sixth generations of the Hill-Smith family. As custodians, they have enormous respect for the generations that came before them, and also realize that a family wine business doesn't thrive across three centuries by standing still, and that change is a constant. The family spends most of their time looking forward and always strive to innovate and reduce their impact on the environment. The winemaking philosophy at Yalumba is based on minimal intervention, which includes organic and vegan-friendly practices, as well as wild fermentation.

The team at Yalumba is led by Robert Hill-Smith, the fifth generation of the family. Robert led Yalumba into the modern era by cementing their reputation as an internationally-focused and innovative wine business. He pioneered Viognier in Australia and established Australia's First Families of Wine. Sisters Jessica and Lucy Hill-Smith, daughters of Robert and the sixth generation, have also joined the family business, with Jessica taking on the role of General Manager of PR & Communications, while Lucy is based in the UK as a Fine Wine Ambassador.

At Yalumba, the winemaking team is led by Head Winemaker Sam Wigan, along with Louisa Rose, who is also a Winemaker and Head of Sustainability. Louisa is featured on page 20 of the Vintages Catalogue and is the reason for the inclusion on the feature about Women in Wine. Louisa joined Yalumba in 1992 and is one of Australia's most respected winemakers. She has gained international recognition as a pioneer for her work with Viognier and cool-climate Riesling, as well as her passion and push for sustainable viticulture without synthetic insecticides. Over the years, Yalumba has won 43 accolades for their sustainable practices, including the International Award of Excellence for Sustainable Wine Growing & the International Green Apple Gold Award, with Louisa playing an instrumental role.

First crafted in 1943, the Galway Shiraz is named after Lord Galway who served as Governor of South Australia. Lord Galway was an enthusiastic supporter of the local wine industry, particularly Yalumba and the broader Barossa wine community. To craft this 100% Shiraz, the grapes were sourced from various vineyards throughout the renowned Barossa wine region, from terroirs ranging from sandy soils to sandy loam, and from red-brown earth over red clay, which are ideal for growing expressive Shiraz. The grapes were harvested in March and April 2023, traditionally vinified, and then matured in French oak for 6–8 weeks.

The growing season during this vintage began with wet soils from abundant rainfall, along with cooler than average temperatures in September and October. This delayed the growing season by several weeks, and was joined by windy conditions during flowering, which resulted in lower fruit set at some vineyards. A relatively mild summer allowed the grapes to thrive, resulting in an elegantly restrained wine with character and charm. From a low-yielding, cool-climate year yielding high-quality and elegant wines, let's see how this 2023 Barossa Shiraz is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

YALUMBA GALWAY VINTAGE SHIRAZ 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Barossa, South Australia (#41311) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, the medium-high intensity nose leads with savoury earth and slightly meaty aromas layered over an attractive and complex mix of black pepper spice, ripe dark red fruits, black cherry, cassis, plum, and black currant notes with a touch of oak. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with lovely, well-balanced flavours of dark red fruit, currant, cassis, black pepper spice, plum, savoury earth, gentle oak spice, and touches of smoky mineral. It's well-structured with elegant and mildly grippy tannins that are supple, smooth, and refined. Acids are fresh and juicy. A touch tangy with currant, cassis, and peppery spice notes tapering to savoury, smoky mineral notes on the long, juicy, and well-balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Several wines by Yalumba are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Gioulis Agia Paraskevi Vineyard Agiorgitiko 2023 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic, single vineyard Agiorgitiko from Greece. It made its debut at the LCBO in last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 7th.

It is produced by Domaine Gioulis, a family estate winery that was founded in 1993 by George Gioulis, an Agronomist & Oenologist who studied at the University of Bordeaux. Domaine Gioulis is situated in Klimenti, an old village located in the province of Corinth, near the valley of Nemea in the northern part of the Peloponnese peninsula.

Klimenti was built in 1400 A.D. on the steep slopes of Mount Ziria, at approximately 960 metres above sea level, close to Lake Stymphalia and 20 km upstream from the coastal city of Kiato (ancient Sikyon). Viticulture has been practiced in this area by residents since the early 19th century. Based on the mountainous characteristics of the region, Mr. Gioulis decided to establish this winery in his place of origin and planted his first vineyard with Cabernet Sauvignon vines. This vineyard is regarded as one of the first certified organic vineyards in Greece.

Over the years, Domaine Gioulis has expanded and grown by adding vineyards and buildings. The second generation of the Gioulis family have also become active in the business after completing their studies. Dimitris, son of George, studied oenology at the University of Athens and now oversees winemaking and production, while daughter Ermioni studied Business Administration and the trade of wines & spirits and now handles commercial and marketing activities. Together with their father, the family aims to produce fine wines from their privately owned vineyards, while also highlighting the qualitative characteristics of the mountainous Klimenti wine region.

The climate in Klimenti is semi-continental with heavy winters and cool summers, conditions which favour organic farming. During the growing season, the climate is sunny with adequate rainfall and cool, northerly winds, which contribute to the absence of insects and reduced diseases. This climate gives rise to wines with minerality and length that is rare for hot-climate wines, and even during very hot and dry years, the quality of the wines remains unaffected. The southern Mediterranean microclimate in this area is also balanced by the mountain breeze from the Ziria mountains.

This red wine is crafted using 100% Agiorgitiko that was grown organically at the Agia Paraskevi Vineyard that is situated at a high altitude of 870 metres above sea level. This plot is located on the Peloponnese peninsula within the PGI Korinthia subzone, but borders the famous PDO of Nemea to the southeast. The grapes were manually harvested at optimum maturity, traditionally vinified, and aged in oak barrels. Grown at high altitude, the wine gives rise to elegant aromas due to the cooler growing conditions, lower grape maturation temperatures, and a continuous light breeze.

In 2023, the growing season was marked by heavy rainfall during spring, which caused severe diseases such as downy mildew, followed by elevated temperatures and drought during the summer months. Combined, these conditions impacted the vines and reduced yields. However, quality is high. Let's see how this 2023 Agiorgitiko from Korinthia in Peloponnese, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE GIOULIS AGIA PARASKEVI VINEYARD AGIORGITIKO 2023 - PGI Korinthia, Greece (#48276) (XD) - $19.95
This organic Agiorgitiko has a medium-high intensity nose that offers an intriguing and funky mix of savoury blackberry, earth, and leather aromas followed by hints of ripe fruits such as pomegranate, black cherry, ripe raspberry, and plum. On the dry, medium+ weighted palate it offers delicious cran-black cherry, pomegranate, plum, raspberry, and spice flavours surrounding a core of savoury earth. It has crisp and juicy acidity, alongside supple, textured tannins. Some minerality on the back palate, while cran-black cherry and raspberry notes taper to savoury earth on the crisp finish, with very good length. A unique wine and a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Gioulis can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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