Altanza Reserva 2019 (Rioja) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a excellent, vegan-friendly Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain, that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in last weekend's October 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bodegas Altanza, a modern winery founded in 1998 by a group of winegrowers committed to producing premium Tempranillo wines that combine Rioja's winemaking heritage with a distinctive, contemporary style. Altanza is located in the higher elevation town of Fuenmayor, in the heart of Rioja Alta, one of the region's most prestigious wine-growing areas.

Rioja Alta is renowned for producing elegant, age-worthy wines, benefiting from a distinctive climate, diverse soils, and long-standing viticultural traditions. Altanza's philosophy is built around four defining pillars: Estate Vineyards, Tradition and Innovation, Tempranillo Expertise, and French Oak Ageing. The winery combines careful estate vineyard management with modern winemaking techniques to craft wines with complete control from vine to bottle, while expressing the character of the region. Tempranillo, Rioja's flagship grape variety, lies at the heart of Altanza's identity, while French oak has been central to its ageing philosophy since the winery's founding. Its cellar houses nearly 6,000 oak barrels, supporting the production of refined wines with complexity, structure, and ageing potential.

Today, the Valvarés Estate in Fuenmayor is home to the winery, surrounded by approximately 200 hectares of vines planted primarily to Tempranillo and Sauvignon Blanc, along with 8 hectares of olive groves dedicated to producing 100% Arbequina extra virgin olive oil. The vineyards are divided into 10 parcels, each selected for its distinctive geographical orientation, soil composition, and microclimate, helping to capture the diversity of the estate. Sustainability is also an integral part of the winery's operations. Altanza works to reduce its environmental impact and preserve the surrounding landscape, notably through its own geothermal energy system, which provides renewable energy, and an on-site water treatment facility. All of its wines are vegan-friendly.

This Reserva comes from Altanza's Esenciales ("Essentials") range, which sits at the heart of the winery's portfolio and includes wines that showcase its signature Rioja style. Positioned between the Crianza and Gran Reserva in the range, the Reserva emphasizes the balance, elegance, and character that define the winery's approach. The Esenciales wines are among Altanza's most recognized and best-selling offerings.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this wine, including the 2016 Altanza Reserva three years ago. Made from 100% Tempranillo, it is vinified using a combination of traditional Rioja practices and modern winemaking techniques. The wine spends 18 months ageing in French oak barrels, followed by a further three months in 22-hectolitre Allier French oak foudres. This extended maturation allows the oak and fruit to integrate while adding complexity and depth.

The 2019 growing season in Rioja was declared a perfect year. It began with a relatively cold spring, with enough rainfall and occasional frost, resulting in irregular flowering, loose and well-aerated bunches with fewer berries, and lower-than-average yields. Summer was warm and stable throughout, with little disease pressure. Rainfall during the harvest period refreshed the vines, helping produce grapes with fully ripe skins and good acidity levels. The resulting wines show depth and power, balanced by finely textured, rounded tannins. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2019 Tempranillo Rioja from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALTANZA RESERVA 2019 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $22.95
Crafted with 100% Tempranillo, this has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers a fine mix of sandalwood, sweet oak spice, and cinnamon mingling with red cherry and maturing hints of dried rose, dried cherry, balsamic, and savoury earth. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it has lovely, complex sandalwood, leather, savoury earth, balsamic, red cherry, rose floral, cinnamon, and sweet spice flavours in a nicely balanced and slightly maturing profile. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the smooth, elegant tannins are well-integrated. Gently grippy on the mid-palate, while earthy oak, sweet spice, cinnamon, and dried cherry/floral notes linger on the very long, elegant, and juicy finish. Could age further, but is very enjoyable now. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Altanza can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Estévez Versos de Valtuille Mencía 2024 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Mencía from the DO Bierzo appellation in Spain that made its debut at the LCBO over the long weekend as part of the October 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos, a small, family-owned winery with a winemaking heritage dating back to the late 19th century. While the modern winery was established by Helios Estévez in 2015, its roots go back to his great-grandfather, Ramón, who acquired vineyards in Valtuille de Abajo, Bierzo, in northwestern Spain, in the late 1800s using money earned while working in Brazil.

In the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, the family settled in Mexico. Helios later emigrated to Mexico to join his father, who had been exiled there. During his time in Mexico, Helios worked in the vineyards while developing a strong desire to return to Bierzo and continue his family's winemaking heritage. In 2015, that dream became a reality with the help of his wife and four children, as they established the family venture in the small village of Valtuille de Abajo.

The focus at Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is on caring for the old vineyards of Valtuille de Abajo. The winery works with six small, distinctive vineyard plots planted primarily with Mencía and Godello. Each offers its own characteristics in terms of soil composition, elevation and sun exposure, and all are tended to by hand. Along with three village-level wines, including this Mencía, Helios is particularly focused on producing single-vineyard wines that express the terroir of each site.

This red wine belongs to the village-level tier of Estévez's Versos de Valtuille range, which translates to "Verses from Valtuille." The name refers to the poetry Helios Estévez wrote while living in Mexico, expressing his longing for his ancestral home in Valtuille de Abajo, in Spain's Bierzo region. In much the same way, the wines of Versos de Valtuille are born in the heart of the village and seek to express its landscape, traditions, and history.

To craft this 100% Mencía, the grapes were selected from a blend of old vineyards in Valtuille de Abajo, with vines averaging 75 years of age and grown at elevations of 500–550 metres above sea level. The vineyards feature a diverse range of soils, including clay, slate, limestone, and pebbles. At the winery, the grapes underwent wild fermentation using indigenous yeasts in 7,500-litre French oak foudres, and remained in oak for 8 months of maturation.

In 2024, Spain's growing season had its share of highs and lows, with exceptionally heavy rainfall presenting significant challenges in some regions. However, the impact varied across the country. Situated in the province of Castile and León in northwestern Spain, Bierzo experiences a mix of cool Atlantic and warmer continental influences. Despite the challenges, the 2024 vintage produced fresh, precise wines in Bierzo. Let's see how this 2024 Mencía from Bierzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTÉVEZ VERSOS DE VALTUILLE MENCÍA 2024 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#50750) (XD) - $22.95
The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is ripe with wild dark berry, blackberry, black cherry, mulberry, and wild herb aromas layered over notes of savoury, earthy mineral, and spice. The crunchy, mid-weighted palate is dry with delicious wild dark berry, blackberry, wild herbs, black cherry, earthy mineral, and spice flavours in a clean, well-balanced profile. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the ripe tannins are smooth, refined, and gently grippy. Savoury, stony, and earthy notes linger on the long and juicy finish. Should drink nicely to the end of the decade and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

One ultra-premium wine by Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is available in very small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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October 10, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Perfect Gifts, Ready to Go

Here are my top wine picks from the October 10, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here), where “Perfect Gifts, Ready To Go” is the title of the release. This is a fairly large release compared to what we have seen recently, with 108 SKUs included and more red wines than any other colour or style. It is also on the premium side, as only 18 SKUs are priced below $20. Once again, there are many lovely wines, but be prepared to open your wallet. Everything should be readily available for purchase both online and in stores at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

We’ll begin with the feature story, “Perfect Gifts, Ready To Go,” which includes 17 SKUs focused primarily on multi-packs and large-format red wines ready for seasonal gift-giving. There are also some sparkling wines, Port, and Icewine. I’m sure that quite a few of the wines included in the multi-packs will be lovely, but my only recommendation from the feature story is a lovely Vidal Icewine from Niagara.

Among my top red wine recommendations from the main release, Bordeaux varieties account for nearly half of the wines. On the local front, we have a Meritage from Niagara composed of 48% Cabernet Franc, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Merlot, while the Inniskillin wine is made with 100% Cabernet Franc. From Bordeaux, the Montagne-Saint-Émilion is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, while the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux is composed of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The only other blend among the reds is a Riserva Chianti Classico made with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Both wines from Spain are mono-varietal, with the Rioja crafted from Tempranillo and the Bierzo made from Mencía. Other mono-varietal reds include a fine Syrah from Niagara, as well as a pair of Pinot Noirs – one each from Martinborough (New Zealand) and Niagara.

My top white wine picks from the main release begin on the local front with a pair of lovely medium dry (i.e. slightly sweet) Rieslings from Niagara, followed by a gently off-dry Riesling from Germany. There’s also a fine, off-dry Gewürztraminer from Alsace. Moving on to the dry wines, there are a pair of lovely Chardonnays – one each from Chablis (Burgundy) and Yarra Valley (Australia). Other mono-varietal dry wines include a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre in the Loire Valley and an Alvarinho from Vinho Verde in Portugal. Interestingly, both of my remaining white wine recommendations are blends priced under $20, with the McLaren Vale white crafted using approximately 60% Viognier and 40% Marsanne, while the Sicilian white is a blend of 34% Catarratto, 31% Inzolia, 29% Grecanico, and 6% Chardonnay.

For sparkling wine lovers, there is a brilliant Grand Cru Champagne crafted with 100% Chardonnay. There are also a couple of lovely 10-Year-Old Tawny Ports from Portugal, both made with traditional Douro varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), and Tinta Barroca, while the Burmester also includes Tinto Cão. For sweet wine lovers, look to the iconic Botrytis Semillon from Australia or the Sauternes from Bordeaux, which is made with 90% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• PEACOCK'S FAN COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#50193) (XD) - $16.95
• MAJELLA THE COMPOSER CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - Vegan, Coonawarra, South Australia (#50196) (XD) - $19.95
• CHÂTEAU TANESSE CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2022 - Sustainable, AOC, France (#666628) (XD) - $20.95  91 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2022 - AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $22.95  90+ pts  wine review
• ESTÉVEZ VERSOS DE VALTUILLE MENCÍA 2024 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#50750) (XD) - $22.95  90 pts  wine review
• ALTANZA RESERVA 2019 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $22.95  91 pts  wine review

• LUNA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2023 - Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#17544) (XD) - $27.95
• INNISKILLIN HERON POND SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#54145) (XD) - $39.95  91+ pts  wine review
• REDSTONE ESTATE SYRAH 2021 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#437376) (XD) - $40.95  OFE
• REDSTONE MERITAGE 2021 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#44167) (XD) - $48.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CASTELLO DI AMA MONTEBUONI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2022 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#30268) (XD) - $59.95  OFE
• BACHELDER LOWREY VINEYARD OLD VINES PINOT NOIR 2023 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#361816) (XD) - $65.00  OFE

White Wine:

• D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2025 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#662775) (XD) - $17.95
• TASCA D'ALMERITA REGALEALI BIANCO 2025 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#531780) (XD) - $18.95
• PIERRE SPARR GRANDE RÉSERVE GEWURZTRAMINER 2024 - AOC Alsace, France (#747600) (D) - $20.95  91 pts  wine review
• YERING STATION VILLAGE CHARDONNAY 2024 - Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#50188) (XD) - $24.95
• AVELEDA SOLOS DE XISTO ALVARINHO 2024 - Vegan, Sustainable, Vinho Verde, Portugal (#35465) (XD) - $24.95
• TRIUS SHOWCASE GHOST CREEK RIESLING 2024 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#44144) (M) - $28.95  OFE
• BATTENFELD SPANIER ZELLERTAL RIESLING 2022 - VDP Ortswein, Pfalz, Germany (#50721) (D) - $30.95
• CHARLY NICOLLE PER ASPERA CHABLIS 2023 - AOP, Burgundy, France (#38095) (XD) - $36.95  92 pts  wine review
• CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2022 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#241182) (M) - $39.95  94 pts  wine review
• SOPHIE BERTIN LA CÔTE BLANCHE SANCERRE 2024 - AOP, Loire, France (#50162) (XD) - $44.95  OFE

Sparkling Wine:

• SAINT-RÉOL BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE - AOC, France (#49869) (XD) - $77.95

Fortified Wine:

• BARROS 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#964353) (S) - $28.95
• BURMESTER 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#223958) (S) - $32.95  2013 btld. review

Dessert Wine:

• DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2021 - New South Wales, Australia (#917252, 375 mL) (S) - $29.95  OFE
• CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON 2022 - AOC Sauternes, Bordeaux, France (#17503, 375 mL) (S) - $40.95  OFE
• INNISKILLIN LUNAR NEW YEAR VIDAL ICEWINE 2024 - In gift box, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#53078, 375 mL) (S) - $53.95

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Château Tanesse Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's red wine review is an excellent red from the Right Bank appellation of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO in this weekend's October 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began in 1962, when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native Algeria to establish a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, in the Gironde department of Bordeaux.

The Gonfrier family's three sons – Pierre, Philippe, and Éric – grew up around the family enterprise, with Philippe becoming involved in managing the property at a very early age and Éric completing his first vinification in 1985, at the age of 23. In 1998, Philippe and Éric consolidated their wine activities, including their vineyard acquisitions, under the name Vignobles Gonfrier. Today, the group has a portfolio of more than 20 châteaux, state-of-the-art winemaking equipment and facilities, and vineyard operations spanning more than 1,000 hectares.

Today, Vignobles Gonfrier has more than 20 châteaux throughout Bordeaux and favours top-quality wines that express their terroir, with winemaking serving to ensure wine quality and client satisfaction. With a commitment to the environment, the group's estate vineyards are certified to High Environmental Value Level 3 (HVE3), while Vignobles Gonfrier is also in the process of converting a portion of its vineyards to organic agriculture. The group is further committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach and is certified by EcoVadis. The children of Philippe and Éric represent the third generation of the Gonfrier family now involved in the wine business. Thibault and Paul, the respective sons of Philippe and Éric, are involved in overseeing the family's vineyards, including Château Tanesse, which was acquired by Vignobles Gonfrier in 2004.

Château Tanesse is situated in the Langoiran district within the appellation of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. The appellation is nestled in the Grandes Côtes region, to the east of and along the Garonne River. The charterhouse that is Château Tanesse was built by the Tanesse family during the second half of the 18th century and is located on a high hillock among sloping vineyards. The property's 30 hectares of vineyards surround the historic estate and sit atop very old foundations, overlooking Langoiran's medieval 13th-century castle and offering panoramic views that stretch from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, following the meandering Garonne River.

Like the 2020 Château Tanesse I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted with 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown in the vineyards surrounding the property. The vines average 25 years old and are planted on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil. To craft this wine, the vines were trained using traditional Bordeaux-style vine training - with two canes and a flat arch. In the vineyard, there was controlled grassing down of the vine rows and/or mechanical working of the soil to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. Manual "green harvesting" was also performed in order for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while harvest at the end of the growing season was performed mechanically. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were underwent destemming, crushing, and vatting, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks. Due to the terroir's quality, it also underwent prolonged maceration to extract tannins. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season in Bordeaux was marked by heat and dry conditions, following a relatively dry winter and early spring growth. Spring frosts and June hailstorms damaged some vineyards, while July and August brought exceptionally hot, dry conditions. Older vines generally fared better thanks to their deeper root systems, and cool nights helped preserve freshness and acidity. Wildfires in parts of the region raised concerns about smoke taint, although the impact was limited. The heat accelerated ripening, leading to an unusually early harvest and reduced yields, but fruit quality was excellent. Merlot and Cabernet Franc performed particularly well, while Cabernet Sauvignon also excelled, albeit with the potential for higher alcohol levels. From what is regarded as a legendary vintage, let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TANESSE CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2022 - Sustainable, AOC, France (#666628) (XD) - $20.95
Blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose exudes richly concentrated and complex aromas of ripe dark fruit, black currant, black cherry, cassis, black plum, blackberry, dried herbs, and fine oak spice, plus whiffs of graphite, wet earth, and mulberry. On the dry, full-bodied palate it is richly structured and concentrated with lovely ripe dark fruit, blackberry, black cherry, cassis, currant, wood spice, graphite, savoury earth, and dried herbal flavours. It has juicy, structured acidity, along with ripe, richly textured, well-structured, mouth-coating tannins. A salty mineral mid-palate leads to smoke and graphite notes on the long, savoury, dusty textured, and very juicy finish. Should drink nicely for at least a decade, if not more. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

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Burmester 10 Years Old Tawny Port Btld. 2013 (Douro) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely 10-Year-Old Tawny Port from Portugal's Douro wine region. I purchased this fortified wine back in 2013, when it arrived at the LCBO as part of the December 7, 2013 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It was produced using traditional Douro grape varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca, and Tinto Cão. The vines are planted at elevations of up to 600 metres above sea level in schistous-sandstone (greywacke) soils, with granite in some areas. This Port wine is crafted from a blend of wines from multiple harvests and fortified with grape brandy. As an Aged Tawny Port, the component wines were matured in oak casks for varying periods, with the blend averaging 10 years of age.

Looking back at the catalogue, I probably should have opened this bottle much sooner after buying it. Let's see how this 10-Year-Old Tawny Port from Portugal that was bottled in 2013 is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BURMESTER 10 YEARS OLD TAWNY PORT - Btld. 2013, DOC Douro, Portugal (#223958) (S) - $24.95
Rich, medium-high intensity nose has caramel, sweet spice, almond, honey, and barrel spice aromas with hints of orange, burnt sugar, and savoury undertones. The slightly creamy, full-bodied palate is rich, spicy, sweet, and flavourful, with sweet spice, vanilla, caramel, almond, nutty oak, savoury earth, and smoky notes. Some maturing dried fruit notes adds further complexity. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, along with some warmth and spiciness on the mid-palate. Savoury, smoky, and nutty notes linger on the long, gently sweet finish. Consindering the bottle's age, this is holding up quite nicely and is best when served slightly chilled. Score: 91+ pts

While this particular bottling is, of course, long sold out, a newer bottling, which is also now organic, arrived in today's October 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

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Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Niagara that was featured in the September 12 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the thematic on "Local Wines You'll Love" from Ontario. This wine is also a VINTAGES Essentials product that is always (and widely) available at LCBO outlets across the province.

Like the excellent 2023 Le Grand Clos Chardonnay and 2023 Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir wines I enjoyed a couple of weeks ago, this white wine is produced by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne (DLCJ), a unique joint-venture winery project that was first established in 2000. The goal of the project was to establish a 'domaine' in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula and produce ultra-premium Canadian VQA wines from Burgundy's classic grape varieties – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Le Clos Jordanne released its first wines in 2007, with Thomas Bachelder as the winemaker. While the project was paused in 2016, it was revived in 2019 by Arterra Wines Canada in a new partnership with Thomas. The signature style of cool-climate wines produced from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was also revived, along with the philosophies of low intervention and terroir expression. The wines of DLCJ are crafted using sustainable winemaking practices, with a focus on delivering the best and most authentic expression of Burgundian-style wines through the lens of Niagara terroir.

After years of nomadic winemaking, Domaine Le Clos Jordanne established a permanent home in 2024 by opening its doors at the former Angel's Gate property on the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula. Today, DLCJ uses innovative New World practices combined with time-honoured Burgundian techniques, such as harvesting and sorting the grapes by hand. Every step of the process, from vineyard to bottle, receives careful consideration. Alongside Thomas, the winemaking team consists of Phillip Brown (Associate Winemaker) and Kerri Crawford (Assistant Winemaker).

First crafted in the 2019 vintage, the Jordan Village Chardonnay is made with fruit from selected parcels in all three estate vineyards – Claystone Terrace, Le Clos Jordanne, and Talon Ridge – into one terroir blend. The older vines are now deeply rooted and produce exciting wines with clarity, intent, nobility, ageability, and a sense of place. While the Le Grand Clos Chardonnay offers a snapshot of a hyper-localized expression of place, the Jordan Village showcases place on a macro approach that captures Jordan's Escarpment region as a whole. The Claystone Terrace and Le Clos Jordanne vineyards are a mere two hundred metres apart from each other (near King St. and Jordan Rd.) on the first rise of the Twenty Mile Bench, while the Talon Ridge Vineyard is located on the final rise and at the top of the plateau of Vinemount Ridge (off 17th Ave. in Jordan Station). Although each of these vineyards provides its own special characteristics, there is a throughline that connects each vineyard and its blocks to each other and their shared home in Jordan.

For this vintage, this 100% Chardonnay is crafted with 38% Talon Ridge Vineyard, 37% Claystone Terrace Vineyard, and 25% Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard fruit. All the grapes were hand-picked when they felt the flavours were "there" – with thick skins, ripe, starting to soften, and in good sanitary condition. They wanted the seeds to be completely brown, an indicator of true phenolic ripeness. The grapes were manually sorted and gently whole-cluster pressed. After the juice (or 'must') settled in tank for a couple of days, the naturally clear juice was allowed to start wild yeast fermentation in tank before being transferred into 228 L French oak barrels (approximately 20% new) to complete the long and slow fermentation. The wine remained in barrels for 20+ months, after which it underwent malolactic fermentation. The barrels chosen for Domaine Le Clos Jordanne wines are specifically selected to deliver and express the terroir of the wines, not mask it. Each lot is tasted systematically, barrel-by-barrel, over the course of many months, and only those truly representative of the terroir of each individual parcel are selected, blended, and then bottled and aged for a minimum of six months prior to release.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was a classic vintage with no major curve balls. It began with a slightly mild winter followed by a relatively warm spring, which resulted in early bud break. Summer was classical, with occasional heatwaves followed by big thunderstorms, which meant being vigilant in the vineyard. Harvest was hard and fast, with a beautiful, dry, and warm fall. From a great vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE CHARDONNAY 2023 - VQA West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20455) (XD) - $30.00
Screw cap enclosure. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe golden apple, pear, lemon, and melon aromas nuanced with vanilla, butter, and spice, plus whiffs of flinty mineral and mealy notes. Quite complex. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied, creamy palate it has lovely ripe apple, lemon, vanilla, buttered toast, and sweet spice flavours, plus some earthy minerality that appears on the mid-palate. It is good structure with fresh, juicy, and mouth-watering acidity. Savoury with earthy and flinty mineral notes linger on the long, and very juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

A few other wines by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery or through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Kew Blanc de Blanc 2019 and Blanc de Noir 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's sparkling wine reviews are a pair of lovely bubblies that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature on "Local Wines You'll Love" from Ontario in last month's September 12th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Kew Vineyards, a hidden gem in Niagara's wine country history situated in the community of Beamsville, Ontario. The boutique winery resides at the historic Kew homestead, which was built by William Kew over 160 years ago and was used by the family to successfully produce carriages. Descendants of the Kew family lived on the property until the late 1960s, when the estate entered a new chapter in its history when it was acquired by Dieter Gutler and his wife, Ingrid.

The latest chapter of Kew Vineyards began in 2023, when the estate and its 80+ acres of land were acquired by Arterra Wines Canada. Kew's vineyards are located on the Beamsville Bench, within Ontario's Niagara Escarpment regional appellation, on gently sloping land with well-drained soils and a favourable climate for growing grapes. The philosophy at Kew is based on small-batch winemaking and the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion – a passion for the art of winemaking, a passion for the land, and a passion for the way in which wine celebrates daily life.

Today, Kew Vineyards is as much about gracious country hospitality as it is about beautiful wine. I hope to visit the winery one day, as Kew has taken a different approach to the winery experience – one that encourages visitors to get off the beaten path, slow down, and take the time to enjoy the surroundings. Kew Vineyards is meant to be an awakening of the senses and the soul, seamlessly blending Old World elegance with New World charm, while encouraging visitors to relax and soak in the experience. Guests are invited to walk through the vineyards while enjoying and exploring Kew's wines.

Blanc de Blancs sparkling wines are traditionally associated with some of the most prestigious Champagnes and sparkling wines, particularly those made exclusively from Chardonnay. This Blanc de Blanc is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was hand-harvested from a block just east of the house on the Estate Vineyard. After harvesting just over 8 tons of Chardonnay from this block, the fruit was gently whole-bunch pressed, and with careful monitoring, only the highest-quality juice was used to craft this wine. After undergoing primary fermentation, the wine was allowed to age 'en tirage' for the next 6 years before beginning disgorgement. This long élevage is only possible with high-quality wine possessing plenty of bright acidity, which helps promote greater complexity and autolytic character in the wine.

This Blanc de Noir is crafted solely with Pinot Noir and is a wonderful example that showcases Niagara's exceptional cool climate, which is perfectly suited for this red grape variety. As great care is required when producing a white wine from red grapes, the juice was derived from gentle whole-berry pressing and then fermented in stainless steel. It underwent secondary fermentation in bottle on its lees for over 4 years, harmonizing all of the elements together into a delicate, brut-style sparkling wine.

While neither the 2019 nor 2021 vintages in Niagara were particularly great, the 2019 vintage did provide plenty of freshness, while the 2021 vintage tested the skill of winemakers in the field and the picking decisions they made during a wet fall. Let's see how these 2019 and 2021 vintage traditional method sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANC 2019 - Traditional Method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (XD) - $32.95
100% Chardonnay aged on lees for 6 years. The medium-high intensity nose offers elegantly complex brioche, toasty, lemon citrus, golden apple, and pear aromas with hints of autolytics and leesy notes. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has lovely lemon citrus, golden apple, and pear flavours nuanced with spice, brioche, toasty, autolytic, and leesy mineral. Complex, elegant, and layered throughout, it is supported by crisp acidity and finely beaded bubbles that offer a creamy mouthfeel. Citrus and apple notes taper to brioche, toasty, and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIR 2021 - Traditional Method, VQA West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (XD) - $32.95
100% Pinot Noir aged on lees for over 4 years. Gentle toasty, brioche, autolytic, and pastry aromas mingle with citrus and tangy red berry notes rise out of the glass. It's medium+ bodied and dry with crisp effervescence and acidity. It has delicious toasty, brioche, tangy citrus, leesy mineral, and pastry flavours, plus hints of spice, red berry and autolytic notes adding interest. It's nicely textured with good structure on the mid-palate, while toasty, brioche, and citrus notes taper to leesy minerals on the long, savoury, and juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few other wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara, as well as through Arterra Wines Canada.

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