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  • Date publishedFriday, March 12, 2021

Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties - Sangiovese & Vernaccia di San Gimignano



Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties - Sangiovese & Vernaccia di San Gimignano
After enjoying last month's masterclass on Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties featuring Nebbiolo & Valpolicella, I travelled to Tuscany yesterday evening (virtually, of course) to learn about the grape varietals Sangiovese & Vernaccia di San Gimignano. This class is the second in the series being held by the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario Canada (ICCO Canada).

Tuscany is Italy's oldest wine producing region with winegrowing activities by the Etruscans occurring as far back as the 8th century BC. The hilly terrain is ideal for producing world class wines, and although Tuscany is the 4th most widely planted wine region in Italy by acreage, they are 6th most by volume due to the focus on lower yields and higher quality. Of the total wine production, 85% is devoted to producing red and rosé wines, and 15% to white wines. Sangiovese is the most widely planted varietal in Tuscany, while Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is considered to be Tuscany's most noblest white wine.

Vernaccia is a white wine grape grown mainly in the commune of San Gimignano within the province of Siena, Tuscany, in north-central Italy. The earliest record of Vernaccia in San Gimignano dates back to the year 1276. Vernaccia is yellow-green and amber coloured and grows in big bunches with medium-sized berries. It prefers sandstone with marly clay soils at altitudes between 200 and 400 metres above sea-level.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is a designation of quality, similar to the French AOC system. To meet DOCG standards, 85% of of the wine must be cultivated within San Gimignano, and 15% of the wine can be blended with other local white, non-aromatic grapes. Riserva wines are aged in wood for a minimum of 11 months, plus a further 3 months in bottle prior to release. Typical aromas and flavours of Vernaccia di San Gimignano wines are white flowers, green apple, citrus, and honey, as I detected in the fine, unoaked example that was featured in the masterclass.

Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Selvabianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2019 (91 pts)

Sangiovese is one of the most important grape varieties in Italy and among the top 10 in the world. Approximately 10% of all vineyards in Italy are planted to Sangiovese, while more than 60% of vineyards in Tuscany are home to Sangiovese. Although Sangiovese's origins are unknown, it is thought to come from domesticated wild vines of Etruscan origin. There is also some DNA evidence that suggests it came from the south as a cross between varietals Ciliegiolo and Calabrese di Montenuovo. The name "Sangiovese" comes from the latin term "sanguis Jovis", which translates to "the blood of Jove or Jupiter".

In the vineyard, Sangiovese buds early and is slow to ripen. It thrives on hillsides and higher altitudes (up to a certain point), and prefers the direct sunlight, warmth, and dry climate that is found in Tuscany. Sangiovese is very sensitive to terroir and prefers soils with limestone such as Galestro and Alberese. As the king of Tuscan viticulture, Sangiovese produces wines of many different styles from many places in Tuscany. Notable wines include Chianti DOCG, Chianti Classico DOCG, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Morellino di Scansano DOCG, and the Super Tuscans. Typical fruit aromas and flavours are in the red cherry, sour cherry, strawberry, and raspberry spectrum, plus savoury notes of earth, leather, licorice, and tobacco, as well as floral notes. High acidity and firm tannins are also characteristics of Sangiovese wines, lending itself to be highly ageable.

Istine Vigna Cavarchione Chianti Classico 2017 (92 pts)

Both of the lovely wines featured in the masterclass are represented by Cavinona, an Ontario-based wine agency that specializes in Italian wine, and can be purchased by the bottle at their wine shops - contact Cavinona directly for details. You can also purchase the Vernaccia by the case and use discount code ICCOMARCH for 10% off until April 14th. This special discount code can be used on any case purchase on cavinona.com.

The small bites included as part of the tasting package contained some Pecorino Toscano DOP and Grana Padano DOP cheeses, as well as Taggiasche and Baresane Olives. The package also included Patè di Fegatini with crostini (Tuscan chicken liver patè) and Focaccia Toscana, all of which were made in-house by Chef Boris and Head Butcher at Spaccio, Terroni's production kitchen.

The final masterclass in the series is on April 15th and will focus on the grape varieties Aglianico & Montepulciano. You can join us by registering for the free class here. To order your wines for the April 15th masterclass, please visit Bottega di Terroni. To participate on social media, follow @trueitaliantaste and these hashtags on Instagram: #ExtraordinaryItalianTaste #TrueItalianTaste #iffoodcouldtalk.

Tasting Notes:

IL COLOMBAIO DI SANTA CHIARA SELVABIANCA VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (XD) - $29.24
100% Vernaccia di San Gimignano that was organically grown on sandy soils rich in stone and fossils, and deep soil with mixed consistency and pebbles. Hand-harvested and fermented in cement vats and stainless steel tanks, while also spending some months on the lees. Fresh, medium-high intensity nose offers delightful aromas of white florals, lemon citrus, green apple, leesy mineral, and wet stone characters. It's medium-full to full-bodied on the ripe, concentrated, palate with flavours of honeysuckle, floral, lemon, and stony-leesy mineral notes. It has succulent, juicy acidity while leesy, mineral and some saline notes linger on the long, chalky textured finish. Best enjoyed on the cool side. Score: 91 pts

ISTINE VIGNA CAVARCHIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2017 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (XD) - $57.49
Organically farmed, 100% Sangiovese from the best selection of the vineyard in the Radda in Chianti sub-zone. It was fermented in concrete tanks and aged in 20 hL Slavonian oak barrels for 12 months. Fragrant, intense, perfumed aromatics are elegant with notes of red cherry, cinnamon, red floral, sweet spice, and clove. On the medium-full to full-bodied on the palate it has very good fruit concentration with lovely aroma replays of red cherry, floral, sweet cinnamon spice, and savoury earthy notes. It has very good acidity and some structure to the slightly chalky textured tannins. Excellent length on the long, savoury, and juicy finish. Gorgeous! Score: 92 pts


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