Kew Blanc de Blancs 2017 and Blanc de Noirs 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

After enjoying the excellent 2020 Kew Vineyards Marsanne a few months ago (and still widely available in stores today), tonight's sparkling wine reviews a pair of wonderful bubblies from the same producer in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story on Bubbles in the December 14 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these fantastic bubblies are produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique estate winery situated on the limestone-rich soils of the Beamsville Bench, in the heart of Niagara wine country. Kew Vineyards is situated on a 160-year-old estate, in a homestead built by William Kew that was used by the family to successfully produce carriages.

Once the Kew family's chapter ended, a new chapter began in 1975, when Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. It is owned by Arterra Wines Canada, who acquired the historical property and its 80+ acres of vineyards in 2023. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures.

The focus at Kew Vineyards is on small-batch winemaking, with the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion - passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life. The winemaking team is led by veteran Australian winemaker Philip Dowell, who has focused his life's work on cool-climate wines. The philosophy at Kew is to allow the vineyard to tell its story of each harvest, while also expressing the terroir in order to produce world-class wines that are uniquely Niagara.

The sparkling wines reviewed below are both mono-varietal and vintage sparkling wines. The 2017 Blanc de Blancs is crafted using 100% Chardonnay, while the 2020 Blanc de Noirs was produced using 100% Pinot Noir. The 2017 growing season in Ontario was generally cool with wet weather. At the beginning of September, extended heat and sunshine resulted in one of the nicest autumn seasons on record, as well as a later harvest. Grape quantities were high with a record harvest, while the quality was excellent for white wine varieties. The growing season in 2020 provided near perfect conditions that coaxed the best out of a wide spectrum of grapes from whites to big red Bordeaux varieties, and everything in between, including Pinot Noir. The 2020 vintage produced grapes which reached phenolic ripeness, while also maintaining acidity to allow for balanced wines. Let's see how these two vintage sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Chardonnay that was barrel aged for 5 months prior to bottling for secondary fermentation, and then aged on its lees for 5 years. Fresh, elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers lovely toasty, brioche, and autolytic characters mingling with lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white peach aromas, plus whiffs of pastry and honey adding further complexity and intrigue. It's light-to-mid weighted and essentially dry on the palate with delicious citrusy, ripe apple, toasty, and brioche flavours with touches of autolytic notes and a twist of honey. It has crisp acidity and lively bubbles that freshen the juicy and slightly creamy palate. Subtly spicy with apple, toasty, and brioche flavours that are joined by leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Pinot Noir that was gently whole-berry pressed and fermented in stainless steel, followed by ageing on its lees for 2 years. The medium+ intensity nose offers apple, pear, red cherry, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of biscuit and toast. Some autolytic and honeyed aromas develop with time in the glass. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate is dry with delicious toasty, apple, pear, and lemon citrus flavours with hints of honey, biscuit, and mineral. It has fresh, vibrant acidity and crisp, refreshing mousse, along with a textured and slightly grippy mid-palate. Apple, lemon citrus, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Kew Vineyards can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be purchased directly from the winery in Beamsville (Niagara), or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

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Kacaba Reserve Riesling 2017 (Niagara) - Wine Review

To celebrate Mother's Day, tonight's white wine review is a lovely Niagara Riesling that I purchased at the winery while visiting Niagara during the Icewine Festival back in January 2020. Of course, this vintage has long sold out, while newer vintages are currently available for purchase from the winery.

Tasting Note:

KACABA RESERVE RIESLING 2017 - VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (D) - $17.95
Screw cap. Lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of petrol, lemon oil citrus, waxy, white peach, and orchard fruit complexity. It's miedium+ bodied, off-dry and with delicious petrol, lemon/lime citrus, white peach, and green apple flavours with a kiss of sweetness surrounding a core of savoury, stony mineral. It has very good, lively and juicy acidity, along with a nicely chalky textured mid-palate. Leesy, limestone mineral notes linger on the long, dry-ish, crisp, and well-structured finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years, and probably longer. Score: 90+ pts

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Babich Winemakers' Reserve Syrah 2017 (Hawke's Bay) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Hawke's Bay Syrah that arrived at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the March 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with bottles now available at quite a few stores across Ontario.

It is produced by Babich Wines, one of New Zealand's most prominent and oldest family-owned wineries. It was founded in 1916 by Josip Babich, an immigrant from Dalmatia (which is now part of modern day Croatia), who immigrated to NZ at 14 years old in 1910 to join his three brothers and sell Kauri gum in New Zealand's far north. In 1911, the Babich brothers put a deposit on a plot of land in Henderson Valley (West Auckland), which later became the family homestead, winery, and company headquarters. In 1912, Josip planted his first vineyard on a terrace above the Kaikino Swamp gum field, and in 1916 he made his first New Zealand wine and sold it in casks and bottles under the Babich Brothers label.

In 1929, Josip married Mara Grgic, and together they had 5 children over the following years. In 1949, Josip's son, Peter, joins him in the family vineyard. The 1950s brought further expansion of the property in West Auckland, while in 1958, Josip's son, Joseph, joined Babich Wines. Further expansion ensued during the 1960s, with a growing emphasis on table wine production. In 1980, the first Babich wines were exported to Europe, an achievement that is the highlight of Josip's winemaking career.

By 1984, Babich Wines began producing their first wines from the Gimblett Gravels region in Hawke's Bay, and by the end of the decade, they increased their presence in the region by establishing a second 36 hectare vineyard on Gimblett Rd. The family company's success led to more growth and expansion, including several acquisitions and partnerships, and in 2001, David Babich, son of Peter Babich, became the third generation of the family to join the business. In 2013, Babich completed construction of their new winery in Marlborough, while acquiring the 9.7 hectare St. John Vineyard in the Bridge Pa Triangle - where this wine is from. In 2016, Babich Wines celebrated 100 years of innovation, achievement and winemaking excellence, while in 2018, André Babich, son of Joe Babich, joined the family business.

Today, the aim of Babich Wines is to craft sustainable wines that are stylish, refined, and have an easy drinking appeal. To support this, their goal is to have vineyards in the right regions on superior sites, and getting the right varieties on those superior sites. With more than 100 years of winemaking experience across three generations and three outstanding wine regions, wine is the family's life. The Babich family has a long history of looking ahead as they love their craft, love doing things by hand, and caring for the land. Their hard-working spirit still runs deep within their veins, while their vision is to simply share their passion through patience, experience, and good old-fashioned wisdom, as well as leading the style and evolution of sustainably grown and crafted New Zealand wine.

I had the pleasure of first tasting this exact same vintage at their winery in Auckland back in March 2020 when I was visiting New Zealand. It is crafted with 100% Syrah using grapes that were grown in the St. Johns Vineyard, which is located in the Bridge Pa sub-region of Hawke's Bay. This is also a single clone Syrah - using only the 470 clone, a late-ripening clonal variety with open clusters that discourages fungal disease, while producing aromatic, full-bodied wines with high acidity, deep colour, and good tannins structure. The 470 Syrah clone is extremely popular in France and is the most widely-planted in Hermitage. The grapes were machine harvested and de-stemmed in the field from April 2nd to 3rd. The berries were lightly crushed, fermented in stainless steel vats, and also underwent malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured for 8 months in French oak barrels (25% new), and was fined using egg whites, with minimal filtration.

The 2017 growing season in New Zealand was generally cooler than average and dry. However, in Hawke's Bay it was searingly hot at times. In Autumn, there were some heavy rains right before harvest, which disturbed picking and reduced yields. Despite some difficulties, the quality of what was picked is high. After tasting this same, exact wine 4 years ago, let's see how this 2017 Hawke's Bay Syrah is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BABICH WINEMAKERS' RESERVE SYRAH 2017 - Single Vineyard, Estate Grown & Bottled, Hawke's Bay, North Island, New Zealand (#32412) (XD) - $36.95
Screw cap. From Bridge Pa Triangle, the highly aromatic nose is fragrant and open, offering complex aromas of wet earth, black pepper spice, dark fruit, blackberry, and stony mineral, with hints of mushroom, floral, and meaty notes. The elegant, medium+ bodied palate has lovely dark berry, blackberry, black pepper spice, meaty, savoury wet earth, plum, and cocoa flavours that are supported by fresh, succulent acidity. It's nicely balanced throughout with smooth, fine-grained tannins and good structure. Savoury mineral, earth, and cocoa notes linger on the long finish. A Syrah lover's Syrah to enjoy over the next 5-6 years and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Tasting Note from March 2020:

From a single vineyard in Bridge Pa Triangle and a cool year, this offers a medium-high to highly aromatic nose of black plum, black pepper, and spice aromas, along with touches of floral, earthy, and meaty tones that add complexity. It has a nice, medium+ bodied palate with lovely, complex aroma replays on the flavour profile. It’s supported by fresh acidity and structured tannins on the back palate. More earthy and savoury on the long, satisfying finish. Will age gracefully over the next 6-8 years. Score: 91+ pts

A few lovely Babich Wines can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages 2017 (Sonoma) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine reviews is an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sonoma County that arrived at the LCBO as part of the August LCBO VINTAGES Cellar Collection Release and is now available at several stores across Ontario. It will make a fine gift for the holidays or a nice addition to your cellar.

It is produced by Chateau St. Jean, an iconic Chateau that dates back to the 1920's, but whose story as a top wine producer began in 1973 when the three founders of the estate purchased the northern Sonoma Valley property. Their vision for the property was to create wines that captured the nuance, character, and quality of Sonoma's distinct vineyards and growing regions. The founders, Robert and Edward Merzoian, and Kenneth Sheffield, who were San Joaquin Valley table grape growers and shippers, named the winery after the only woman who was "saintly" enough to keep the three of them in line, Jean Sheffield Merzoian, sister-in-law, wife, and sister to the owners.

The Chateau was built by the Goff family, who had established their family fortune in the iron ore mines of Michigan's Upper Peninsula and Pacific Northwest lumber. They came to California in 1916 and purchased 300 acres of land in the Valley of the Moon area of Sonoma County, California. Construction of the Goff family summer home - now the Chateau - began in 1920, and white wine grapes were grown on the property. The living room of the home is now the Reserve Tasting Room in the Chateau.

After founding the winery in 1973, they had their first vintage a year later, and produced wines on the property for the first time in 1975 with Dick Arrowood as Chateau St. Jean's first winemaker. In 1980, the founders built a brand new winery in Kenwood, California, that was designed from the ground up to accommodate the numerous grape parcels and keep them separate throughout the winemaking process, ensuring that vineyard designation stayed pure. In 1999, Chateau St. Jean was acquired by Treasury Wine Estates, and a year later they opened a new Visitor Centre and Gardens, which features a statue of Jean in the main courtyard garden by the pool.

In 2021, Foley Family Wines acquired Chateau St. Jean from the Americas division of Treasury Wine Estates. A year later, they welcomed Winemaker Niki Williams, the company's fifth winemaker, while also undergoing renovations that included rebuilding the destemmer, crush pad, and presses, as well as upgrading the gardens and surrounding facilities to improve the visitor experience.

With a proud history and having set the standard for excellence in Sonoma County winemaking, Chateau St. Jean celebrates 50 years in 2023. Some of these achievements for excellence in wine include the 1996 Cinq Cépages being awarded the wine of the year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 list, while the 1999 vintage was awarded second place. In 2008, Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren was also awarded Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

This Cinq Cépages, which translates to "Five Grape Varieties", is the flagship wine of Chateau St. Jean. First introduced in 1990, it is crafted in a Bordeaux-style blend with Cabernet Sauvignon the main variety. To craft this wine, Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren, who joined Chateau St. Jean in 1980 and became Winemaker in 2003, selected the best fruit from outstanding and proven Bordeaux varietal vineyards that showcase the very best of Sonoma County. In this vintage, it is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot, with 46% of the fruit coming from Knights Valley, an area which highlights boysenberry flavours and elegant tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monte Rosso and Mountain Terraces Vineyards on Moon Mountain add structure, while Merlot from the Louvau Vineyard in Dry Creek adds lush juiciness and texture. The Malbec comes from Chateau St. Jean's Estate Vineyard in Sonoma Valley, while some fruit is also from Stuhlmuller Vineyard in Alexander Valley, which brings savoury, dried herb, and bright berry notes. After vinification, the wine was aged for 20 months in French oak (68% new). It was bottled in January 2020 and released in October.

The 2017 growing season began with abundant rainfall, followed by a mild spring that resulted in extended flowering. Warm late-summer temperatures moved harvest along quickly, while yields for the 2017 vintage were slightly lower than the previous couple of vintages. While the 2017 vintage was challenging, the wines that were produced are of excellent quality with complex flavours, concentrated colour, and finesse. Let's see how this 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sonoma is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHATEAU ST. JEAN CINQ CÉPAGES 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#710913) (XD) - $130
Blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. Rich and elegant, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers lush, complex, ripe, dark fruited, blackberry, black and red currant, fine oak spices, grilled herb, and earth aromas with touches of boysenberry and floral. It's full-bodied with ripe black and red currant, cassis, blackberry, savoury oak spice, earth, peppery spice, grilled herb flavours surrounding a savoury core. It's framed by fresh, juicy acidity and elegant, yet firmly structured, fine-grained tannins. It's a touch palate warming, but still balanced. Savoury and earthy with graphite notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Provides immense pleasure now, but will reward cellaring. Enjoy to 2035+. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines from Chateau St. Jean's large portfolio can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Rodney Strong Symmetry 2017 (Sonoma) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent red blend from Sonoma County that I was first introduced to back in 2017 during a very interesting Rodney Strong Blending Seminar with Winemaker Rick Sayre. The latest vintage of Symmetry arrived at the LCBO last month, as part of the August 19 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the pioneering and well-respected Rodney Strong Vineyards, the 13th winery that was established in Sonoma County in 1959. It was founded by Rodney D. Strong and has become one of Sonoma's leading wine producers.

Rodney Strong was an accomplished dancer, but transitioned to winemaking after acquiring a 159-acre vineyard in Healdsburg, Sonoma County, because he saw great potential for growing high-quality wine grapes. In 1979, as Mr. Strong stepped back from daily activities, Rick Sayre came on board as the new winemaker for Rodney Strong Vineyards. It was around this time that Tom Klein was introduced to Rodney Strong Vineyards and in 1989 he purchased the vineyards and winery because he truly loved being in the wine business.

Today, under the leadership of the Klein family, who are also 4th generation farmers in California, Rodney Strong Vineyards is flourishing with a commitment and passion to crafting premium wines. They are also committed to sustainable farming practices and environmental stewardship, and have received certifications such as certifications such as Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing and Sonoma County Sustainable. Rodney Strong produces several ranges of wines, with Symmetry part of their Reserve collection. All wines from their Reserve collection are crafted at their state-of-the-art Artisan Winery.

The philosophy behind Symmetry is that at its heart, it is an artfully blended wine that is carefully crafted using fruit from the very best hillside vineyards in Sonoma County. Part of the goal when crafting Symmetry is to capture the essence of each varietal in the blend, while striking the perfect balance between the classic Bordeaux varieties. Only the best is selected for the final blend, which makes Symmetry a unique expression for each vintage. The name Symmetry means balance, and it is their winemakers' ultimate goal to craft a rich blend that is harmonious, elegant, and intensely flavoured.

Like the wine during the blend seminar and other vintages prior and since, this red wine is typically a blend based on at least 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, with this particular vintage composed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 12% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. The fruit was grown in the Cooley (45%), Brothers (30%), and Rockway (25%) vineyards. It was crafted by Winemakers Justin Seidenfeld and Greg Morthole, using their small lot winemaking facility which they call the Artisan Cellar. They employed artisan techniques such as cluster pre-sorting, berry sorting, and extended maceration, while also using small tanks and equipment sized for the most discriminating vineyard selection process. The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 75% new, for 24 months. The facility is truly state-of-the-art and represents the Klein family's commitment to producing the finest wines.

The 2017 growing season was a complicated one and will be remembered for many years as the all-time precipitation record was set by mid-April, followed by six different heat waves as high as 43°C. The fruit was harvested between September 16th and October 13th. Let's see how this 2017 red wine from Sonoma is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RODNEY STRONG SYMMETRY 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#641142) (XD) - $74.95
Blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 12% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Richly fragrant, fresh, and spicy on the highly aromatic nose with a lovely mélange of red and black fruits, currant, cassis, grilled herbs, and savoury earth aromas with a touch of barnyard and anise adding further complexity. It's full-bodied and dry with ripe, chewy, elegant, and well-structured tannins. Lovely, rich flavours of red and black fruits, black cherry, currant, cassis, grilled herbs, oak spice, and earth flavours. A touch palate warming on the mid-palate, but still balanced, while the acids are fresh and juicy. Grilled herbs, dark fruits, and smoky earth notes linger on the long, elegant finish. Enjoy to at least the end of the decade, and perhaps a bit longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Many other fine wines by Rodney Strong are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Springs Road Shiraz 2017 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely Shiraz from Kangaroo Island in Australia. It is a brand new wine to the LCBO, landing in Ontario over the weekend as part of the June 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Springs Road Wines is owned and operated by Joch Bosworth and Louise Hemsley-Smith, owners of Battle of Bosworth Wines in McLaren Vale. Joch and Louise acquired the vineyards after going on a mystery tour to Kangaroo Island at the end of the 2016 vintage and while in the eastern coastal town of Kingscote they came across a sales ad indicating that the vineyard was for sale. The vineyards were located inland, about 7 km west of Kingscote, and after visiting the site they recognized the potential of the vineyards and purchased the property.

Prior to the acquisition, the property was owned by well-known locals Roger and Kate Williams. It was initially a small sheep property, followed by the planting of vineyards in 1994. The property was originally owned by Kate's father, a strict Christian who didn't approve of alcohol. The old house that sits on the property was built by local Garry Johnson's grandparents and is now used to stores the nets they put on the vines to stop the crows from eating the grapes. Garry also came by to help do some trenching for the pathway leading up to cellar door.

The winery gets its name from the road called Springs that runs just off the property in an east-west direction across the northern part of Kangaroo Island, South Australia. The label that adorns the Springs Road wines is adapted from the French cartographer Louis Freycinet's 1808 map of southern Australia called "Carte Generale de la Terre Napoléon." Freycinet accompanied Nicholas Baudin on his voyage of discovery through the Southern Ocean between 1801 and 1803 and charted the coastline all the way from Wilson's Promontory in the East (Victoria) to the Nullabor National Park in the West, centring on the "Iles Decres", or Kangaroo Island. "Terre Napoleon" was the first detailed map of Australia. The extravagantly illustrated map included Australian flora, fauna, kangaroos, and seals, and some of these elements are included on the label of Springs Road wines.

I'll be honest, I didn't know anything about Kangaroo Island and its winegrowing activities. Kangaroo Island is Australia's third largest island and one of its youngest wine regions. It was officially registered as a Geographic Indication in the year 2000 and is one of five regions that make up the Fleurieu Zone. The island has built an international reputation for a pristine wilderness that is famed for the quality of its produce, as well as its natural beauty and wildlife. Kangaroo Island is a cool-climate wine region with regular maritime breezes playing an important role in moderating the ample sunshine, allowing for a long, cool ripening season, while the wines from Kangaroo Island are making an impact both domestically and abroad.

Crafted with 100% Shiraz, the grapes were grown in their vineyard from vines planted in 1994 and 2000. The soils are predominantly sandy loam soils over limestone and marl (clay) with some patches of Bay of Biscay soils (black cracking clays) interspersed with some ironstone. The soils are shallow and relatively low in fertility, while experiencing low annual average rainfall of 400 to 500 mm per year. The grapes were harvested and brought to the winery in Willunga (McLaren Vale), where they were crushed and fermented in open vessels. Fermentation was finished in barrel, followed by ageing for approximately 12 months in French oak barrels - 30% new and the rest one and two year old barrels.

The growing season on Kangaroo Island started with a very wet winter, followed by a very wet spring which made for a tricky flowering period and led to reduced yields. However, the grapes benefitted from a very late harvest - by four weeks - which led to a long, slow ripening process and helped develop maximum flavour. Let's see how this 2017 Shiraz from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SPRINGS ROAD SHIRAZ 2017 - Kangaroo Island, South Australia (#30753) (XD) - $32.95
Screw cap. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is spicy with a pleasing mix of ripe red, black, and blue fruit aromas, layered over savoury earth, meaty, and black pepper spice notes. Stony mineral aromas emerge with time in the glass. On the juicy, dry, medium-bodied, and well-structured palate the lovely red, black, and blue fruit flavour replays are joined by black pepper spice, stony mineral, savoury earth, and subtle wood spice flavours. It has crisp, juicy acidity and smooth, refined, and gently chewy tannins with a touch of grip. Crisp with stony mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Complex and very well made, this highly recommended buy can be enjoyed over the next 5+ years. Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines from Springs Road can be ordered through their Agent - Airen Imports.

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Pittacum Val de la Osa Mencía 2017 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely Mencía from DO Bierzo in Spain that is brand new to the LCBO, arriving on shelves across the province today as part the April 29th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Viñedos y Bodegas Pittacum, one of four member wineries that make up Grupo Terras Gauda. Present in four of Spain's principal wine regions, Terras Gauda has established itself as one of the Spain's top winemaking groups. Their main objective is to produce high quality wines with unique personalities, using noble varieties grown in ideal conditions, and vinified according to the area's tradition and crafted with the most advanced technology and the utmost care.

Acquired by Terras Gauda in 2002, Viñedos y Bodegas Pittacum is located in Arganza, a town with a longstanding vine-growing and winemaking heritage, and nestled in the beautiful landscape of the Bierzo. The Denomination of Origin Bierzo is located in the northwest of León province, in the north western part of Spain. Bierzo covers 18% of the total surface area of the province borders the provinces of Orense, Lugo, Oviedo, and is in an area of transition between Galicia, León, and Asturias. The Bierzo is a series of small valleys within this mountainous area, while the lower Bierzo is a vast and flat depression, and each area determines the crop types.

Since Pittacum first opened, it's mission has been to create wines with personality and bearing a unique stamp, without losing sight of the hallmark features of the Mencía variety and the local area and climate. They are committed to wines of personality, reliability, and quality.

The area where Pittacum is located has a very special micro-climate - its mild, calm, and rather temperate climate is regulated by a humidity similar to the humidity of Galicia. It also boasts the dryness of Castilla which helps maintain water balance. Situated at low altitude, this prevents late frosts on the whole, which also makes it mild enough for early grape harvesting that generally takes place a month earlier than the rest of Castilla and Rioja.

The soils in mountains of Bierzo are a a mixture of refined elements, quartzite, chalks, while in the lowland areas of the valleys the soils are enriched by the continuous benefits of the soil on the slopes. The vineyards in the Bierzo region are situated primarily on damp black and slightly acidic soils, and as such lack the carbonates typical of humid climates. One of the defining factors for the quality of grapes is their location. As such, the vines are situated on slightly inclined terraces closest to rivers, on semi-terraced slopes, or in vineyards with pronounced inclination and at altitudes between 450 and 1,000 metres.

To craft their wines, they use grapes from their own 5 hectares of excellent old vines, as well as sourcing the finest old vine grapes (between 50 and 80 years old) from growers in different parts of Bierzo while monitoring their development all year round as scrupulously as in our own vineyards. The Pittacum project is based on the Mencía (Men-thee-ah) variety, a rare grape variety with great potential that is only grown in two places: northwestern Spain and the northern half of Portugal.

Crafted with 100% Mencía, the Val de la Osa is born out of an ancient vineyard and land where the Mencía variety has been grown for centuries. It is a wine that speaks of the land and the conditions in which it was grown and the vines taken care of. The Mencía vines were grown on sloping, well-drained, moderately fertile, deep-seated, loamy-soil terrain. The grapes were harvested from 60+ year old vines and carefully destemmed and sorted, bunch by bunch, on the sorting table. It was fermented in temperature-controlled tanks for 20 days and then aged for 12 months in 1-year-old French oak barrels. Let's see how this 2017 Mencía from Bierzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PITTACUM VAL DE LA OSA MENCÍA 2017 - Old vines, enclave singular, DO Bierzo, Spain (#31200) (XD) - $28.95
From 60+ year old vines, this 100% Mencía has intriguing earthy black mineral aromas which are joined by black and blue berry fruit, plus touches of violet, black plum, olive, and spice adding complexity to the bouquet. On the medium-full bodied, dry palate it offers lovely black and blue fruit, earthy black mineral, spice, and violet replays on the flavour profile. It's supported by fresh, bright, acidity and smooth, well-structured, and fine-grained tannins. Savoury minerals with black and blue fruits linger on the long, balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Other lovely wines by Pittacum can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Margan Family Hunter Valley Semillon 2017 (Australia) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2018 Margan Family Hunter Valley Semillon white wine a couple of years ago, tonight's wine review is an older vintage of the same wine and it arrived in LCBO outlets across the province last weekend as part of the March 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Margan Wines, a family-owned winery that was established by Lisa and her husband Andrew Margan in 1996. They are situated in the picturesque Broke Fordwich wine region of Hunter Valley. Prior to founding Margan Wines, Andrew learned the art of grape growing and winemaking at Tyrrell's for 20 years, while also working as a flying winemaker in France.

Today, Margan Wines is the leading producer within the Broke Fordwich sub-region of the Hunter Valley. Across two locations they have over 100 hectares of distinguished vineyards, some of which were planted in the late 1960s. Most of the vineyards are planted on the unique soils of the Fordwich Sill and provide the wines with a special sense of place. All of the wines are Estate grown and produced, as well as certified Sustainably Farmed.

As leaders in environmental stewardship, Margan Wines is fully accredited with Sustainable Winegrowing Australia and Freshcare, and were one of the first producers in the Hunter Valley to achieve this. Their certification benchmarks to the International Standards of ISO14000 of best practices, which means that they follow a detailed Environmental Management Plan to reduce their impact across all business operations in the four basic pillars of sustainability - reduction of greenhouse gases, energy efficiency, water management and the reduction of waste. Their acclaimed Margan Restaurant is regionally awarded for its focus on estate-grown produce which includes an orchard, olive groves, estate-reared lambs, bees, and free-range chickens.

Hunter Valley Semillon is one of the great wine styles of not only Australia, but around the world. This particular Semillon was picked from Margan's low-yielding, 40-year-old mature vines grown in the red volcanic clay soils of the Ancient Fordwich Sill. These soils are the weathered product of ancient volcanic eruptions and are rich in minerals, absorb moisture easily, and release it slowly.

The 2017 growing season in Hunter Valley was hot, dry, and trouble-free. It delivered a great vintage for wine, especially Semillon. Hunter Valley Semillon can be enjoyed when young and fresh, or cellared for many years, thereby introducing many complexities. Let's see how this 6 year old Semillon from Hunter Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MARGAN FAMILY HUNTER VALLEY SEMILLON 2017 - Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia (#493338) (XD) - $19.95
Screw cap. Pours a medium yellow colour. Wow. Gorgeously fragrant, intensely aromatic, and complex nose of yellow pear, green fig, lanolin, and floral joined by subtle hints of citrus, melon, and waxy aromas. It is medium-full bodied on the impressively rich, well-structured, and dry palate with lovely citrus, floral, yellow pear, spice, grapefruit, lanolin, and waxy flavours supported by fresh, bracing, and well-balanced acidity. Some earthy mineral notes come through on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Margan Wines are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge 2017 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend. It was featured as part of the theme on wines from France's top wine regions in the February 18th LCBO VINTAGES Release and is available online at lcbo.com and at Flagship Exclusive locations in Ontario.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire wine producers. Jean-Max Roger is a family-owned winery that descends from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, in the Sancerre appellation, dating back to the early 17th century. In the early 1970's, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vineyards from his parents and, with his wife Nicole, focused on developing the vineyards to become one of the top estates in Sancerre today. The Rogers family passion was transferred to their sons with Etienne and Thibault joining the family estate in 2004, while their third son, Xavier, has a passion for wine and works in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Today, the estate covers 26 hectares in the Sancerre AOC, all located along the Loire River, and together they perpetuate the family know-how and techniques to continuously improve their wines vintage after vintage.

Pinot Noir from this region in France is a bit of a rarity here in Ontario, and this particular wine seems to show up at the LCBO once every 2-3 years. I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages this lovely Pinot on a couple of occasions, including most recently the 2015 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge back in July 2020. It's name "La Grange Dîmière" refers to one of Bué's ancient tithe barns. The ancestors of Jean-Max Roger used this barn for making their wine and today it remains the oldest part of the winery.

This Sancerre Rouge is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué, Sancerre, and Amigny, on limestone soils called Caillottes and Terres Blanches, which are also known as Kimmeridgian marls. The vines average between 25 to 40 years old and have southwestern and southeastern exposure to the sun. Across each vineyard, the grapes were grown to reveal its terroir while revitalizing and respecting soil life. The grapes were hand-harvested, sorted, de-stemmed, and crushed, and after a few days of cold maceration it was fermented using natural yeasts. Approximately 30% of the wine was aged for 10-12 months in 400 L barrels, and the wine was aged in bottle for at least another 6 months prior to release.

From a somewhat difficult start to the growing season in 2017 that began with frosts, the fortunes turned and became picture-perfect throughout summer and allowed the grapes to full ripen. Overall, the 2017 vintage in Loire is a good one, with especially high-quality in Sancerre. Let's see how this 2017 Sancerre Rouge is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROUGE 2017 - AC, Loire, France (#539858) (XD) - $33.95
100% Pinot Noir. The medium-high intensity nose has ripe, maturing, and slightly stewed strawberry, red berry, raspberry, and cranberry aromas surrounded by enticing savoury mineral, earthy, and spice notes. It's light-to-mid weighted on the dry palate with delicious strawberry-cran-cherry, raspberry, and spice flavours layered over mineral and savoury earth notes. It has very good acidity and supple, well-structured tannins and a light grip on the mid-palate. I really like the long, elegant, stony mineral and raspberry flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Only small quantities of other wines from the Jean-Max Roger portfolio are available at the LCBO, but they can also be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Queenston Mile Pinot Noir 2017 (Niagara) - Wine Review

I first tasted this lovely 2017 Queenston Mile Pinot Noir back in June 2019 and for tonight's red wine review I'm delighted to see it return to the LCBO this weekend as part of the February 18th LCBO VINTAGES Release as an Online and Flagship Exclusive.

It is produced by Queenston Mile Vineyard, a 50-acre vineyard and winery that launched as a brand in early 2019. Queenston Mile is located in the St. David's Bench sub-appellation of Niagara Peninsula, within the Niagara-on-the-Lake region. They are located just 10 kilometres south of the shores of Lake Ontario, an area formed when glaciers carved out the Niagara Escarpment and arose from the historic shoreline of Lake Iroquois towards the base of the Niagara Escarpment. Today, the escarpment's steep ridge collects winds off the lake and circulates them back over the low-lying plains of Niagara-on-the-Lake, creating a warmer climate that extends from early in the spring to lengthen the entire growing season.

The small, dedicated team behind Queenston Mile Vineyard is led by talented winemaker Rob Power of Creekside Estate Winery. Rob and his team had been growing grapes and making wine from the land where Queenston Mile resides for over twenty years, with the first ten years spent waiting for the newly planted vines to mature. They discovered that Queenston Mile has one of the warmest and longest growing sites in the Niagara Peninsula. During the next ten years, they began to see the special qualities of the vineyard, with soils consisting of red sandstone bedrock and rich layers of silty clay and loam. Today, they grow seven varieties on the property, with the primary focus on crafting wines mainly with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, including sparkling wines.

Crafted with 100% Pinot Noir, the fruit in this wine is from their estate vineyard in the St. David's Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. It was small-batch fermented in stainless steel tanks after a 3-day cold soak, and aged for 16 months in French oak barriques and demi-muids, 40% new.

The 2017 growing season near the estate featured a rainy spring and moderate summer. But things turned around in the fall when the sun started to shine brightly and delivered a hot and dry September, bringing extended heat to record one of the nicest fall seasons on record. Although this vineyard always creates a powerful wine, this particular vintage produced a Pinot that not only comes across as more restrained and smooth, but also elegantly styled with balanced structure. Let's see how this 2017 Pinot Noir from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

QUEENSTON MILE PINOT NOIR 2017 - Estate bottled, VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#10138) (XD) - $40.00
Screw cap. Evolved to a medium-pale garnet colour, this has a beautifully fragrant and highly aromatic nose of black cherry, raspberry, Damson plum, and subtle spice with some earthy and mushroomy characters while continuing to evolve in the glass. It's mid-weighted and well-structured on the palate with lovely black cherry, sour cherry, raspberry, and Damson plum flavours joined by savoury wet earth, beet root, and subtle spice and smoky notes adding further complexity. Touches of tea leaf on the mid-palate. It's nicely textured with some grip and a pleasant, lightly chalky mouthfeel, while acids are fresh and succulent. Smoky and savoury on the long, juicy finish. Wow! Highly recommend buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Queenston Mile Vineyard come through the LCBO from time to time, but can also be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Delheim Grand Reserve 2017 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Bordeaux variety blend from South Africa that newly arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the January 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Delheim Wines is a family business that was established in 1938 when Hans Otto Hoheisen purchased the farm, which had various owners over the years, as a retirement home for himself and his wife Deli. The name "Delheim" is German for "Deli's home". They started by planting citrus trees but quickly discovered that the area wasn't suited to Delheim because of the windy conditions. Their German friends suggested that they grow vineyards and two years later Hans Otto planted his first grape vines.

In 1944, the concrete tanks in the cellar were completed by Italian prisoners-of-war. Several years later, Deli mentioned to her nephew in Germany that she needed help on the wine farm in South Africa, and because he didn't see a future in post-war Germany, he decided to join them and arrived in South Africa in 1951. Her nephew's name was Michael "Spatz" Sperling - Sperling is the German word for "sparrow" and Spatz means "baby sparrow".

Michael Sperling soon took a keen interest in the few vineyards Hans Otto had planted. As Michael knew nothing about winemaking, and there were no books or winemaking schools in South Africa at the time, he taught himself through a process of trial and error and with some help from neighbours and visiting German winemakers. Over time, Spatz established himself as a serious winemarker and garnered numerous awards. He also embarked on a series of pioneering initiatives in the South African wine industry over the ensuing decades.

In 1971, patriarch Spatz Sperling’s far-sightedness led him to buy 80 hectares of prime red-wine land on the Klapmutskop mountain, about 3 kilometres from Delheim, as the crow flies in a westerly direction. This property was called Delvera in honour of Spatz’s wife, Vera, while the vineyards are called Vera Cruz - Cruz meaning "cross", allegedly for the cross Vera has had to bear during her long marriage to Spatz! With its warmer, drier climate, and sandier soils, Vera Cruz was better suited to growing high-quality red wines. Delvera is planted mainly with Cabernet Sauvignon, predominantly grown as bush vines and today aged between 15 and 37 years, along with some Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Today, Delheim is owned by the Sperling family. Vera still resides on the farm, while the late Michael Hans "Spatz" Sperling is the Patriarch and a South African wine industry legend. Their eldest son, Victor Sperling, and eldest daughter, Nora Sperling-Thiel, serve as Directors of the company and live on the farm with their families, while their other two children, Maria and Nicholas, live in Europe.

In the vineyard, their philosophy is that they are custodians of the land and must tread lightly in order to minimize the impact they have on it, as well as creating balance and harmony in the vineyards. They also strive to gain a sense of timelessness by allowing their vineyards to grow old, tell their stories and allowing the wines to gain a sense of place, while also keeping an eye on the future, seeking longevity and sustainability. Delheim also practices precision farming by embracing technologies to improve the quality of their vineyards and grapes.

This red wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc that was grown on their Vera Cruz property. The soil at Vera Cruz has an Oakleaf profile with mainly decomposed granite, and faces southwest on a slope between 220 to 280 metres above sea level. The grapes were handpicked and in small batches and fermented in a combination of open-top fermenters and vertical stainless steel tanks. The was was matured in 300 L French oak barrels for 18 months, and only the finest barrels were selected for this Grand Reserve blend.

From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2017 Cabernet Merlot blend from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DELHEIM GRAND RESERVE 2017 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#26094) (XD) - $31.95
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The highly aromatic nose is fresh and fragrant with ripe blackberry, black currant, fine wood spices, and savoury earth aromas, with intriguing touches of cassis, tomato leaf, and graphite. It's full-ish bodied on the dry, chewy palate with very good concentration and complex, lightly tangy flavours of ripe dark berry, blackberry, currant, tomato leaf, and some pipe tobacco and graphite notes. It has fresh, juicy, and well-balanced acidity, while the structured tannins are smooth, refined, and well-integrated. There's a pleasing, subtly chalky mouthfeel on the back palate. Savoury, graphite mineral notes linger on the long, very satisfying finish. Maturing nicely, enjoy this delicious, highly recommended buy to the end of the decade. Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Delheim can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Tenuta Iuzzolini Cirò Rosso Classico 2021 (Calabria) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious red wine from Calabria crafted with the indigenous Gaglioppo variety that arrived at the LCBO just over a week ago as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES Release on January 7th.

Tenuta Iuzzolini was founded in 2004 by Fortunato Iuzzolini and his wife Giovanna Colicchio, and the couple transferred their love and passion for the land to their four sons who are also now part of the Estate. Located in Cirò, a small Calabrian town with Greek roots along the Ionian coast of Crotone, they have approximately 500 hectares of land on the Estate with 100 hectares planted to vineyards, 50 hectares to secular olive groves, 100 hectares of arable land, and the remaining land consists of pastures and woods for livestock raised in the wild.

The soils at Tenuta Iuzzolini are of clayey-limestone and sandy origin, and very fertile because they are rich in natural springs. It experiences a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and short, rainy winters, providing the ideal conditions for growing vines and olive trees. In addition to making quality wines, the goal of the Iuzzolini family is to recover and enhance native Calabrian vines, namely Greco Bianco, Gaglioppo, and Magliocco. The most widely planted of the three varieties is Gaglioppo as it has been cultivated for thousands of years in the area of Cirò and thrives because it has adapted to the dry climate and resists disease. Today, the family employs 35 workers to perform specific tasks within the company, a number which triples during the grape and olive harvest period.

While the 2017 Tenuta Iuzzolini Cirò Rosso Classico that I tasted a couple of years ago was crafted with 100% Gaglioppo, this vintage, according to the back label, is crafted with mainly Gaglioppo. The grapes were grown in the "Timpa Bianca" area, in Cirò Marina, in the central eastern part of the province of Crotone, Calabria. The vineyards are situated 50 to 100 metres above sea level and planted on white clay soils, and experience a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot, dry summers. The grapes were manually harvested during the first week of October and underwent a traditional fermentation, followed by ageing in steel for 5 months with a short passage in barriques. Let's see how this 2021 Gaglioppo from Calabria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA IUZZOLINI CIRÒ ROSSO CLASSICO 2021 - DOC, Calabria, Italy (#13034) (XD) - $19.95
Crafted mainly with the Gaglioppo variety, the medium+ intensity nose is lightly candied and fruit forward with ripe red fruits, red cherry, red plum, raspberry, plus some spices and savoury wood undertones adding interest. It's medium+ bodied and dry on the palate with delicious red berry, raspberry, red plum, and spice flavours supported by fresh, juicy acidity and supple, rounded tannins. The red berry, plum, and spice notes are joined by a touch of mineral on the finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next few years. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Tenuta Iuzzolini can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo 2017 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2018 Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco back in November, tonight's red wine review is a lovely Barolo that landed at the LCBO a couple of weekends ago as part of the January 7 VINTAGES Release.

Even though Michele Chiarlo was only established in the 1950s, its story begins in 1898 with the birth of Pietro Chiarlo who was born into a farming family in Bubbio. Pietro worked as a farmhand and then at the winery in Canelli during his adolescent years, and in the 1930s, after working for a period in Abyssinia, he returned to Calamandrana determined to invest in the estate and production of wine. Peitro, along with his brother Felice, tilled the lands, breaking the soil by hand to replant the vineyards, and had a sense that wine was the future of the Piedmont hills.

Michele Chiarlo, Pietro's first son, was born in 1935, and he attended a winemaking school in Alba and his classmates were the future protagonists of Italian winemaking: Renato Ratti, Ezio Rivella, Franco Ziliani, Giuliano Noè, and Giacomo Tachis. In 1956, Michele Chiarlo started his adventure as a producer of wine and understood that quality wine in the Piedmont hills began with the choice of vineyards in the most suitable areas. The first cru of Barolo bottled under his name dates back to 1958.

Through the 1960s, Michele expanded the market boundaries for wine, and was among the first producers in Piedmont to believe in the success of Italian wines abroad. He consolidated his success by building a larger, more functional winery in Calamandrana, and began purchasing select vineyards in important positions in Langhe, Monferrato, and the area of Gavi. As a founding member across a number of organizations, including Istituto Grandi Marchi and Accademia del Barolo, the family wine business of Michele Chiarlo is now run by Michele and his two sons Stefano and Alberto Chiarlo. Together, they have an international outlook with great attention to the details at home, including the maniacal care of the vineyards, vinification while respecting the terroirs and vines, and artisanship of the processes. Situated in Calamandrana, Michele Chiarlo is one of the most important oenological realities in Piedmont.

This Barolo is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo grown on calcareous marl clay soils of sedimentary marine origin from the Tortonian period of 9 million years ago. The soil is also composed of 12% active limestone and a basic pH, with a significant presence of micro-elements, specifically magnesium and manganese. The vineyards have southeast and southwest exposure to the sun. After manually harvesting the grapes, it was vinified in steel tanks and underwent 17 to 18 days of skin maceration, with a soft "shower" system of wetting the cap at a temperature between 32°C and 27°C. It was aged for a minimum of 3 years, with the first 24 months spent in average-sized oak casks, followed by refinement in bottle.

According to winemaker Stefano Chiarlo, the 2017 was characterized by a long summer with very little rainfall. In the vineyard, they adopted agronomic practices that allowed them to keep the soil moist and preserve the freshness of the grapes. Some of these practices include doing extraordinary work on the soil to oxygenate the roots, not eliminating excess leaves to prevent sunlight from directly hitting the bunches and avoiding sunburn, while also delaying leaf thinning operations in order not to risk damaging the fruit. To maintain elegance, freshness, and avoid excessive alcohol content, harvest was brought forward by about ten days compared to normal. Chiarlo thinks that 2017 can be compared to vintages such as 2007 or 2011 in terms of climate and organoleptic characteristics. Let's see how this 2017 Barolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MICHELE CHIARLO TORTONIANO BAROLO 2017 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#586388) (XD) - $44.95
100% Nebbiolo. Intensely fragrant with lovely, complex aromas of new leather, earth, red cherry-berry, fine wood spices, juniper berry, and cedar, with touches of rose floral, orange, and barnyard. On the medium-full to full-bodied, structured, slightly creamy palate it is quite approachable right now with red cherry, wild berry, forest floor, wet earth, and savoury wood spice flavours with a touch of orange. Acids are juicy and well-balanced. The structured tannins have some chalky grip, but are accessible now. Forest floor, cherry, and wild berry notes linger on the very long, savoury finish. Enjoyable now and should drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Many other lovely wines by Michele Chiarlo are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Univins & Spiritueux.

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Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2017 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2019 Lakeview Cellars Gewürztraminer Icewine last month, tonight's Icewine review is another lovely Icewine from the same producer. This lovely red Icewine returned to the LCBO today as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Lakeview Cellars was established in Vineland in 1991 by Eddy Gurinskas. Today, Lakeview Cellars is the oldest of several wine brands owned by Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits Inc. and is situated at Lakeview Wine Co. on Niagara Stone Road in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

At present, Thomas Green is the Vice-President of Winemaking and Winery Operations at Lakeview. He began his career at Lakeview Cellars as an apprentice to winemaking under Eddy. After graduating in 2000 as part of the first graduating class of Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture (CCOVI) at Brock University, Thomas remained at Lakeview Cellars and worked with Eddy for three more years until Eddy retired. In 2003, Thomas took over head winemaking duties at Lakeview Cellars, and then Diamond Estates in 2005. As a nostalgic brand for Thomas, he is proud that Lakeview Cellars has built a worldwide reputation for creating exquisite Niagara wines that are both high in quality and affordable. Although the label has changed over the years, the high quality wines produced by Lakeview Cellars has remained consistent for over two decades.

Crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the frozen grapes were harvested in early December when temperatures fell between -10°C and -13°C, After settling the juice in stainless steel tanks, a cool fermentation was completed in late-February when the wine was placed outdoors to stop fermentation and complete a natural cold stabilization. Let's see how this Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAKEVIEW CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON ICEWINE 2017 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#471813) (S) (200 mL) - $39.95
Pours a medium garnet colour. The lovely, highly aromatic nose is open, fresh, and fragrant with ripe raspberry, strawberry jam, cran-cherry, and plum aromas, plus subtle spice notes. It's medium to medium-full bodied on the sweet palate with lovely strawberry jam, raspberry, cran-cherry, and subtle spice flavour replays. Harmonious and well-balanced throughout with a subtle chalky mouthfeel adding a nice textural element. Fresh, lively, and juicy acidity holds it all together, while the red berry flavours give way to faintly mineral notes on the long, juicy finish. Delicious and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely Icewines and table wines from Lakeview Cellars are available at the LCBO and direct through the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

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New Zealand Wine Tasting - Marlborough - Day 1 (Mar. 2020)

After a fine afternoon of wine tasting on Waiheke Island, I caught a late-morning flight the day after, a Monday, to New Zealand's largest and most famous wine region - Marlborough. Located on the South Island, this was the first of two days of wine tasting in Marlborough.

My first stop of the day was Greywacke, the Marlborough label of one of New Zealand's finest winemakers, the legendary Kevin Judd. I was first introduced to Greywacke back in 2016 and have been enamoured with Kevin's wines ever since. And when I landed at Marlborough Airport (BHE) just west of Blenheim, I was excited to have Kevin personally come and pick me up from the airport. We headed straight to the winery - where they had just recently move to - on Kennedys Road in the Omaka Valley, and I met his wife, Kimberley, and the rest of the team for a lovely, home-cooked lunch.

After lunch, Kevin and I headed over to the building next door and he took me through his amazing portfolio of wines, including a few back vintages. Kevin was born in England and grew up and studied winemaking in Australia. He moved to New Zealand in 1983 and built his reputation as one of Marlborough's pioneer winemakers at Cloudy Bay, where he was the founding winemaker. But, after 25 years at Cloudy Bay, he decided to fulfill a long-held dream to have his own winery and in 2009 established Greywacke (pronounced: grey-wacky) with his wife Kimberley. He registered the name back in 1993, while with Cloudy Bay, thinking that one day he might use it for his own label. The name "Greywacke" comes from the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones that are found in their first Marlborough vineyard located in Rapaura, a short drive northeast of where the winery is located now. These stones, like other stones found in other vineyards throughout the wine world, have an impact on the vines and the grapes that grow from them. Seeing the greywacke stone on this trip was on my wish list, and mission was accomplished as Kevin had one on the table where we tasted the wines.

The high quality wines at Greywacke are made from mature vineyards within the central Wairau Plains and the Southern Valleys. Much of the fruit is sourced from vineyards owned by the Sutherland family (a friend dating back to their days at Cloudy Bay and now part-owners of Dog Point), while additional fruit comes from select sites within these sub-regions. The Greywacke portfolio is primarily focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but there are also limited releases of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. There are also a couple of botrytis-affected wines. I was surprised to learn that a portion of every wine throughout the Greywacke portfolio undergoes wild fermentation. Most notable are the Wild Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, both of which were 100% wild fermented. As I learned during my visit to Marlborough, many wineries are using this natural fermentation technique.

All of the wines I tasted from Greywacke were just lovely. Some of these wines do make an appearance in LCBO VINTAGES, while the rest can be ordered through their agent, Connexion Oenophilia. Wine reviews of a few of my favourites are provided below.

In addition to producing fine wines, I didn't realize that Kevin is also very passionate about and excels in photography. All of the pictures on Greywacke's labels were photographed by Kevin. He also has a few books that showcase some of his works, including The Landscape of New Zealand Wine. To view Kevin's books and prints, visit Kevin Judd Photography.

My second stop of the day was a short drive north to Dog Point Vineyard. Ivan and Margaret Sutherland of the aforementioned Sutherland family were among the earliest Marlborough wine industry pioneers - planting grapes in the region in the late 1970s. Ivan, along with Kevin Judd, helped build Cloudy Bay, and they were eventually joined by James Healy. However, in 2004, Ivan & Margaret, along with James & (wife) Wendy wanted to return to a more 'hands-on' approach and launched Dog Point with fruit from the 2002 vintage.

The name 'Dog Point' dates back to the earliest European settlement in Marlborough, when boundary dogs were used to fence in the herds of sheep. Some of these dogs wandered off and formed their own packs, eventually coming back to attack the sheep. Over time, the settlers removed these wild dogs from the area and named it Dog Point.

Today, the four founders of Dog Point are still actively involved in the day-to-day operations of the winery. Dog Point owns some of the oldest vineyards in Marlborough with vines that are 30+ years old. All of the grapes are grown in organic vineyards certified under BioGro New Zealand and hand-picked. The entire Dog Point portfolio consists of just four wines - enabling them to focus on creating high-quality wines of great character. All of the wines are vinified in a low interventionist method, without any fining and minimal filtration, with the goal of producing wines that can be cellared and aged.

At Dog Point, I met up with Jak Nash who gave me a quick tour of the property in the DP classic car that you see on their website. We stopped at a few different points, including a hill that had clay soils and was known for producing the high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that goes into their own wines. Overlooking the hill was a gorgeous view of the Southern Valleys vineyards, some of which are their own. The extraordinary 2020 harvest looks to be yet another very special vintage.

I tasted all four of their current releases - which are all vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free - and each wine is fantastic! Wine reviews of my top three are provided below. While one or two wines from the Dog Point portfolio may come to LCBO VINTAGES, you can also reach out to their agent Noble Estates Wine & Spirits to order the full lineup of Dog Point wines.

The final stop of the day was a short drive north to Whitehaven Wines, located at the northern edge of the Wairau Valley and bordering the Wairau River. General Manager Simon Toneycliffe gave me a brief tour of the estate vineyards, some which are approaching 30 years old before we headed into the winery to learn about Whitehaven and taste a few wines.

Whitehaven Wines was one of Marlborough's pioneering wine businesses when it was established in 1994 by Greg and Sue White after sheltering in a yacht in the Marlborough Sounds during the Pacific hurricane season and thought the area would be a nice place to start a new project. The winery is named Whitehaven for the importance of family and the calming port 'haven' they'd found while anchored in Marlborough - hence the anchor in the logo. Today, Whitehaven is led by Sue White, continuing the dream she shared with her late husband Greg, while their daughter Samantha will steer the company into the future.

To make the wines, the fruit comes from around 45 estate owned or managed vineyards, or from contract grower vineyards across Marlborough's three sub-regions - Wairau, Awatere. and Southern Valleys. This practice is quite common in the wine world, but I learned is especially common in New Zealand. What I found surprising is the sheer number of vineyards where the fruit can come from. For example, Whitehaven's White Label Sauvignon Blanc comes from these 45 vineyards across the Awatere, Wairau, and Southern Valleys, with grapes from each vineyard vinified separately prior to creating the final blend. Many of their contract growers have been part of the Whitehaven 'family' for a long time. In total, Whitehaven has access to more than 200 hectares of vines, and all of the vineyards (including grower vineyards) are Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) accredited. In 2019, Whitehaven became a member of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) - assuring, among other criteria, that they only use Marlborough fruit for their Sauvignon Blanc wines.

After tasting the wines with winemakers Diana Katardzhieva and Rowan Langdon, we toured the production facility that was recently renovated with further improvements and expansion coming soon. I also had the opportunity to go up the catwalk and get a gorgeous view of the Wairau Valley. It was quite windy on this day, but perfectly suitable for winegrowing as the wind helps cool the grapes. Upon completion of the tour, I enjoyed a fine BBQ dinner at Diana's home and accompanied with many Whitehaven wines, including some back vintages. Rowan also joined us and I thank both of you and your partners for a wonderful evening and hospitality!

Whitehaven wines are available at the LCBO (including VINTAGES), with wines from the rest of their portfolio available through their agent - E. & J. Gallo Winery Canada.

Tasting Notes:

GREYWACKE WILD SAUVIGNON 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#282806) (XD) - $39
From clay soils. Wild fermented with two-thirds undergoing full malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, and spending 8 months on the lees. This Sauvignon Blanc has a fresh, oak influenced, and balanced nose of orchard fruit, stone fruit, and hints of citrus with yeasty, leesy, and herbal characters adding further complexities. It's medium-full bodied and quite fleshy on the palate with lovely spicy replays plus citrusy and lemon flavours, all supported by fresh, lively acids. A textural wonder with ripe fruits, subtle oak, and excellent length on the finish. Score: 93 pts

GREYWACKE CHARDONNAY 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $45
2 clones of Chardonnay from 4 vineyards. Pressed straight to barrel and underwent natural indigenous yeast fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation in French oak barriques (20% new). This Chardonnay has a rich, highly aromatic, oak influenced nose that is smoky with buttered popcorn, and baked apple, pear, and stone fruit aromas. It's full-bodied on the rich, creamy palate with very nice smoky-flinty replays and apple flavours. It has fresh, succulent acids to go along with a tight structure and very good length on flinty, orchard fruit finish. Score: 93 pts

GREYWACKE PINOT NOIR 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#402651) (XD) - $46
Made with Dijon clones from vineyards in the Southern Valleys, this Pinot Noir has a fresh, open, fragrant, and complex nose of raspberry and black cherry mingling with earthy, forest floor, beetroot, clove, strawberry, and cherry notes, along with hints of floral. It's light-to-medium bodied with lovely aroma replays on the pretty palate with some tannins on the back-palate. Acids are balanced. Earthy, beetroot, spice, and black cherry notes linger on the long finish. Score: 92 pts

DOG POINT SECTION 94 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325977) (XD) - $44.95
A single vineyard parcel grown on silt/clay loam soils that was wild fermented and aged for 18 months in older French oak barrels, this has a highly aromatic and reductive nose layered over citrus, melon, and subtle smoky oak aromas. It's medium-full bodied with lively acids that brighten that palate. Lovely flavours of spice, citrus, melon, and passion fruit notes with touches of herbal characters. Palate quenching with excellent length on the finish. Score: 92 pts

DOG POINT CHARDONNAY 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#238568) (XD) - $45
From the oldest vines in Marlborough which were planted in 1981 and a clonal combination of 70% Mendoza and 30% Clone 95. Wild fermented in barrels. It has a fairly intense nose that is reductive in style with smoky, flinty, buttered popcorn, golden apple, peach, stone fruit aromas that are very clean and offer purity of fruit. The medium-full bodied palate is spiced with golden apple, peach, and citrus flavours that flow through the juicy, succulent mid-palate. Nice replays. Excellent length on the long, juicy finish. Score: 93 pts

DOG POINT PINOT NOIR 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#329672) (XD) - $50
Mostly Dijon clones from vines planted in 1983 (the oldest in Marlborough), wild fermented (15% whole bunch) and matured in French oak barrels (35% new) for 18 months. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose is clean, elegant, and perfumed with lovely black cherry, dried tea leaf, dark cherry, earthy, cherry, beetroot, and anise aromas. It's medium+ bodied, elegant, and quite concentrated with pleasing black cherry, mulberry, and cassis flavours with subtle oak spice notes. Nicely balanced throughout with clean acids and fine tannins. Lovely earthy, forest floor, and black cherry notes linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts

WHITEHAVEN GREG SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325944) (XD) - $23.95
Fresh, elegant aromatics are clean and ripe with melon, citrus, wet rock minerality, and grapefruit notes. It's medium+ bodied on the fresh, broad palate with nicely ripe melon replays, followed by some mineral, gooseberry, and nettle flavours. It's got fresh acids and a long, crisp, and lightly spiced finish. Score: 91 pts

WHITEHAVEN PINOT GRIS 2018 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447516) (XD) - $19.95
From estate grown fruit, the fresh, medium+ intensity aromatics offer stone fruits, melon, pear, honeysuckle, and floral characters with a touch of cotton candy. The medium-full bodied has a kiss of sweetness with spiced melon, quince, and pear flavours and a touch of herb. With 5 months of lees contact, it is nicely textured with very good acidity, while the finish is long and palate quenching. Score: 89 pts

WHITEHAVEN PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#532929) (XD) - $26.95
A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir from the Awatere and Southern Valleys, this has a medium-high intensity nose that is clean with red and black fruits, black cherry, raspberry, plum, dark berry, and spice, along with some earthy tones and hints of tea leaf. The medium-full bodied palate is structured and quite concentrated with nice red and black fruit replays. Raspberry, tomato leaf, and whiffs of tea leaf and mineral also appear on the flavour profile. Acids are still quite juicy, while the finish length is very good. Score: 90 pts

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