M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc 2021 (Midi) - Wine Review

A perennial favourite of mine that seems to get better every vintage, tonight's white wine review is this lovely wine from Roussillon that arrived at the LCBO today as part of the September 24, 2022 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

M. Chapoutier is the legendary producer from Rhône whose origins go back to the year 1808. In 1990, the renowned Michel Chapoutier took over the reins of the family business. In 2000, he forayed into Roussillon when he purchased his first estate in the region. Michel set up Domaine de Bila-Haut in Latour-de-France, Roussillon, an area with an intense, forceful, and sometimes violent past with contoured terraces, stony soils, and a rich geology. Michel's children, Mathilde and Maxime,
have since joined the family business to form the next generation of the Chapoutier family to perpetuate the family's tradition and vision to craft biodynamic wines which express the full potential of its terroir and true character of the soils.

I enjoyed the 2020 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc last November, and while the 2021 growing season was a tough year across France where most regions experienced record rainfall, Roussillon suffered its most severe drought in the last 10 years. However, Chapoutier's use of biodynamic practices helped save the day! A cold winter led to later than normal budburst, while frost only affected a few of Chapoutier's plots on the plains and lower valleys - their Domaine is actually located in the upper reaches of the Agly Valley. Cool weather continued into late spring, and summer was not as hot as recent years, with no scorching hot days. This worked out well given the lack of water.

In Roussillon, the growing season runs counter to the rest of the winegrowing regions where the lack of water, combined with biodynamic growing practices, avoids any cryptogrammic pressure and they were able to bring in a perfectly healthy crop. When there is a lack of water, biodynamic compost, fermented forest litter help to invigorate the soil, and horn dung, allowed Chapoutier to produce an average harvest in terms of quantity, where much of Roussillon is recording the smallest harvest in its history. 2021 produced a later than average harvest due to some rain at the beginning of September. The grapes ripened during the second half of September, without excessive heat, and produced a very fine vintage.

This delicious white wine continues to be a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. The grapes come from two places - limestone, clay soils and gneiss in the Agly Valley, and granite soils at higher altitude (500 metre), later ripening sites. The grapes were manually harvested early in the morning to preserve freshness, and hand-selected to protect the aromas. At the winery, after pressing, the must is cold-settled. It underwent fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing for a few months (on its lees) in order to preserve freshness and enhance minerality. Let's see how this 2021 Côtes du Roussillon Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

M. CHAPOUTIER BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC 2021 - AP, Midi, France (#485656) (XD) - $16.95
Composed of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. Elegant, yellow floral, herbs, waxy, and lemon pith aromas rise out of the glass with hints of grapefruit and smoke. It's medium-full bodied with a rich mouthfeel and ripe flavours of lemon citrus, grapefruit, yellow floral, orange, white peach, and herbs with melon and mineral undertones. Acids are fresh and lively. Some spiciness and a subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate. Nicely balanced with a satisfyingly long, crisp, minerally finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

You can get other lovely wines by M. Chapoutier at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dandurand.