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BLASON DE BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2023 - AC Bourgogne Aligoté, France (#648436) (XD) - $19.95 The generous, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is ripe with stone fruits, peach, pear, lemon citrus, and apple aromas mingling with flinty minerals. It is impressively weighted on the dry palate with delicious, gently honeyed and spice flavours joining the ripe apple, pear, lemon citrus, and peach notes. It has crisp, well-balanced acidity, along with a slightly textured mouthfeel. Stone and orchard fruits give way to flinty minerals on the juicy and gently spicy finish, with very good length. Ideal with seafood and salads, and a highly recommended buy. Score: 89 pts
Other delicious wines by Blason de Bourgogne can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.
white wine review is a lovely white made with the Jacquère varietal that was grown in the Savoie Cru of Chignin. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO, landing on shelves across Ontario in last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.
It is produced by Jean Perrier & Fils, an historic, winegrowing family that has been cultivating vines and making wine in Savoie and the French Alps since 1853. The Perrier family is linked to the history of wines in Savoie. Famous around the world, the wines of Savoie represent a quaint and wild way of life, and is a unique tradition in French winegrowing.
The Perrier family's story begins in 1853, when Catherin Perrier, who was born in 1820 in the commune of Barberaz (Savoie), bought a cellar in St André les Marches and started growing vines next to the mountain Mont Granier. In 1911, Catherin's son, Claude Emile Perrier, acquired a second cellar, but had to start from the beginning due to phylloxéra. As a winegrower and trader, Claude Emile delivered products to café owners on the backs of donkeys. In 1920, Jean Perrier, son of Claude Emile, extended both the vineyard and cellar.
In 1947, Jean Victor Perrier, son of Jean, extended the lands further and was the first in Savoie to bottle the wine. By 1953, Jean Perrier had purchased a wine trading licence, sold 150,000 litres/year, and farmed over 2 hectares of vines with two employees.
Today, Vins Perrier is led by President Gilbert Perrier, son of Jean Victor, who joined the family business in 1964. In 1973, under the direction of Gilbert, the family wine company established their first bottling line, extended their cellars further, while also building a new winery. Further expansion took place in the 1980s, while Gilbert's two elder sons also joined the family business. In 1993, Gilbert's third son joined the company. The three brothers - Philippe, Christophe, and Gilles - share the tasks of vinification, trade, administration and marketing.
The company continues to grow, expand, and modernize throughout the years, including expanding their farming areas into other towns of Savoie. With the 2023 vintage of this wine, the family wine company celebrates 70 years of Perrier wines.
This white wine is crafted using the Jacquère grape, a varietal grown primarily in the Savoie wine region of eastern France. The grapes themselves are mid-sized with very tight bunches, have thick skins and juicy pulp. The grapes for this wine were grown on clay-limestone soil in one of the more important Crus of the Vin de Savoie appellation - Chignin. The village and commune of Chignin is situated in the French Alps on the southeastern edge of France, near the Swiss border and Lake Geneva. More specifically, Chignin lies on the southwestern side of the Bauges mountains in the Combe de Savoie - a deep valley that runs for 40km between the winter resort town of Albertville in the northeast and Montmélian in the southwest - while the Cru of Chignin is essentially one steeply-sloped vineyard that sits atop soils rich in clay and limestone.
The Savoie wine region is primarily known for its white wines, and almost all of it is enjoyed locally as only 5% is exported, so having a high-quality wine from this region, especially the tiny Cru of Chignin, is a real treat! To craft this wine, the grapes were manually harvested, then pressed using a pneumatic press. It was fermented over three weeks at 20°C in temperature-controlled tanks.
In 2023, the growing season in Savoie featured a late frost, hail, and a heatwave. However, plenty of sunshine in August and re-hydrating rains in September resulted in a healthy harvest and helped save the vintage. From a providential growing season, let's see how this 2023 Jacquère from Chignin in Savoie is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
JEAN PERRIER & FILS CUVÉE GASTRONOMIE CHIGNIN 2023 - AP, Savoie, France (#41428) (XD) - $19.95 100% Jacquère. The fresh, medium-high intensity nose has attractive aromas of pear, quince, yellow stone fruit, and lemon citrus nuanced with white floral and honeysuckle. The light-to-mid-weighted palate is dry, ripe and lightly honeyed with delicious pear, lemon citrus, honeysuckle, and floral flavours accented with touches of peppery spice. It's got clean, vibrant, and well-balanced acidity, while citrus, pear, and spice notes are joined by leesy minerals on the long, succulent, juicy, and well-balanced finish. For summer sipping, or at the table with salad or seafood. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
Other lovely wines by Jean Perrier & Fils can be ordered through their Agent - Buyers+Cellars.
red wine review is an excellent Bordeaux red from the Right Bank that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the LCBO VINTAGES Release Collection.
It is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native land of Algeria in 1962 to start a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, Gironde, in the great wine region of Bordeaux. Paul bought Château de Marsan, which was in ruins at the time, but was surrounded by promising terroirs. He began the adventure with three hectares of grapes, then developed the property's arboricultural activity with the help of the entire family.
Paul's three sons became actively involved in the estate and in local life, with his eldest son, Pierre, becoming mayor of the local municipality, while Philippe became involved in running the property at a very early age, and the youngest son, Eric, carrying out his first vinification in 1985. The Gonfrier family continued to grow the estate with each passing year, with the objective of excellence: ensuring that each variety of grape is carefully selected to best express each plot's special characteristics, while also employing vinification techniques among the vines and in the cellar that seek to allow the terroir to express its finest qualities.
Today, Vignobles Gonfrier is led by brothers Eric and Philippe Gonfrier. Their recognition of exceptional quality wines has allowed them to acquire additional vineyards to further refine their blends. With over 1,000 hectares of vines, state-of-the-art equipment and facilities, the Gonfrier family goes out of its way to craft top-quality wines with sensitivity and respect for the concept of terroir. The third-generation of the family is also now involved in the family business, with Thibault, Philippe’s son, joining the company and expending great effort on taking care of the well-maintained vineyards in an environmentally respectful manner. In 2018, Thibault's sister, Audrey, also joined the company following her successful time spent at a Bordeaux wine merchant. Eric's three children are currently finishing up their studies and are eager to integrate into the family business by implementing new modern skills and knowledge. Their deep-rooted values are: passion for their work, respect for their clients, respect for their commitments, respect for the environment, and defence of their independence and freedom of action.
Château Tanesse is located in the Langoiran district of the AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, a sub-appellation of the within the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Built in the second half of the 18th century by the Tanesse family, the Bordeaux charterhouse is located on a high hillock among Langoiran's sloping vineyards, and overlooks the commune's medieval 13th-century castle and offers a magnificent, panoramic view that stretches from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, while following the meanders of the Garonne River. The property is surrounded by a 30-hectare vineyard that sits atop very old foundations and has exceptional terroir.
This red wine is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil in the vineyard surrounding the Château. The vineyard is managed using sustainable viticulture (certified HVE3), while the Gonfrier family is also committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach certified by Ecovadis. The vines average 25 years old and were trained in the traditional Bordeaux-style, with two canes and a flat arch, along with controlled grassing-down of the vine rows or mechanical working of the soil in order to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. The grapes were manually green harvested, to allow for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while also mechanically harvested. After destemming, crushing, and vatting, the grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks, with a prolonged maceration to extract tannins and showcase the terroir. And finally, the wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.
Despite the pandemic, the 2020 growing season produced a legendary vintage. The growing season began with a balmy but frequently wet spring, which ensured both an early and successful budburst and flowering, while also putting the vineyards in good shape for the arrival of a hot and dry summer. Conditions were mostly arid throughout summer, with intermittent thunderstorms providing just enough water relief. The Right Bank had fewer deluges than the Left, but producers still had to be extremely vigilant at managing disease. Harvest took place during the chaos of COVID, but the weather in fall brought warm days and chilly nights, allowing the Bordeaux varieties to reach phenolic ripeness. While yields were slightly smaller than average, the fruit was healthy and of high quality. Let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU TANESSE 2020 - Sustainable, AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, France (#666628) (XD) - $19.95 This blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc is richly fragrant and inviting, with a medium-high to highly aromatic nose of lovely ripe dark fruits, black cherry, currant, cassis, and wood spice aromas surrounding a core of savoury earth and accented with graphite, mineral, and whiffs of rose floral. It's medium+ bodied and dry with ripe black cherry, currant, cassis, earthy, and graphite flavours in a well-balanced profile with crisp and juicy acidity. Accessible, medium-level tannins are well-structured and provide a nicely textured mouthfeel. Savoury with earthy and graphite notes linger on the long, gently grippy finish. Should drink nicely into the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts
Other fine wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.
It is produced by Maison Prosper Maufoux, an historic wine producer based in Burgundy. It was founded in 1860 by a notary who left his job to create the eponymous wine house, with success following soon thereafter, and then a move into a private mansion located in the main square in Santenay. The family winery continued to grow over the years, becoming a world-renowned name. In 1947, Prosper Maufoux formed a partnership with The House of Burgundy, an importer based in New York. In 1994, Robert Fairchild, then president of this leading American partner, bought the House of Prosper Maufoux.
Today, Maison Prosper Maufoux is owned by the Piffaut family as they acquired the property in 2010. The Piffaut family has wine-growing roots in Burgundy that go back over two hundred years. In 2015, the family acquired Château de Saint-Aubin, a building with a 300-year history, and its exceptional vineyards, and the building is now the new wine house for Prosper Maufoux. Situated in the heart of Côte de Beaune, on the road to the Grands Crus, the estate has 9 hectares of mythical terroirs on the property and overlooks Clos du Château. The exceptional Prosper Maufoux winery was built from scratch fairly recently and resides under the main courtyard of the Château.
Prosper Maufoux is committed to a sustainable approach in the vineyard and at the winery, and is certified to High Environmental Value (HEV) level 3. Among their many sustainable initiatives include biodiversity of species through a strategy of controlled protection and economical management of resources. Their viticultural philosophy is based on experience and observation: learning from the past and their predecessors, understanding their soils and the long-term impact of their cultivation practices. With environmental research, they implement some of the most advanced techniques in sustainable viticulture, which allows Prosper Maufoux to imagine the future in the most respectful way possible for their terroirs.
This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown at Domaine Vigne au Roy, which cultivates 36 hectares of vines in the commune of Bevy, within the regional appellation of Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. More specifically, the vineyard is situated on the slopes of the valleys incising the Jurassic limestone plateaux to the west of the Côte-de-Nuits, at an altitude of between 300 and 400 metres. The composition of the soil in the vineyard is identical to that of the Côte-de-Nuits, but the surface formations are very thin, or even non-existent, and result in clay-limestone soils that are formed based on the substratum of limestone and marl.
To craft this wine, the grapes were manually harvested, sorted, de-stemmed, and then carefully transferred to the vat by conveyor belt, followed by a cold maceration at 10°C for 4 to 5 days. Fermentation lasts for 18 to 20 days, with regular punch-downs or pump-over skins, and is monitored by daily tastings. The pressed juice and free-run juice were then blended into stainless steel vats and lightly settled, then matured in both vats and barrels to undergo full malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months in both stainless steel vats and French oak barrels, with the barrels having a light blond toast, and 20% new.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy produced a good vintage with expectations running high. It began with a relatively benign winter, followed by a spring that oscillated between both unseasonably warm and chilly days, including spring frosts, which led to an inconsistency that delayed budbreak. Flowering was successful, despite some thunderstorms, while summer brought more storms, along with high temperatures that created humid conditions - forcing producers to be vigilant in monitoring disease. Conditions were balmy in the lead-up to harvest, followed by very good weather during harvest as pickers harvested the grapes in the morning to avoid the heat during the day, while also ensuring that the grapes retained their freshness. Quantity and quality are both abundant in this vintage, while Pinot Noir looks to be promising, even though conditions were slightly warmer than which the grape typically excels in. From a good vintage with high expectations, let's see how this 2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Pinot Noir from Burgundy is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
PROSPER MAUFOUX DOMAINE VIGNE AU ROY BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS 2023 - AP, Burgundy, France (#43436) (XD) - $31.95 The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal attractive aromas of black cherry, currant, and rose petals flecked with strawberry, while surrounding a core of savoury earth and mushroom. The medium+ bodied palate has good weight and concentration that supports the spiced, ripe black cherry, mushroom, savoury earth, currant, and strawberry flavours. Crisp acids are juicy and succulent. Impressively structured with textured tannins, plus some herbal notes on the mid-palate add further complexity. Black cherry and currants give way to savoury earth and mushroom notes on the long, crisp, and well-structured finish. Immensely enjoyable now, but will improve with a couple of years in the cellar. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts
Other lovely wines by Prosper Maufoux can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.
Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Cru Bourgeois Cab-Merlot from the Pauillac appellation on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. It made its debut at the LCBO and was featured as part of the theme exploring France's top wine regions in the February 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.
Château Plantey is situated in the winegrowing commune and appellation of Pauillac, within Haut-Médoc in Bordeaux. The small village of Pauillac is located on the west bank of the Gironde, while Château Plantey is only a couple of kilometres west of the village centre. Château Plantey is an old property which used to be owned by the De Gerès family from Loupes, Seigneurs of Camarsac.
In 1958, the vineyard was purchased by Gabriel Meffre. A former print media journalist for twelve years, Claude Meffre, son of Gabriel, now owns Château Plantey. Claude decided to join the family business in 1996 and first managed Château La Commanderie in Saint-Estèphe. From 2000, Claude has managed Château Plantey.
With most red wines from the Left Bank being Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends, this red wine from Pauillac is also a blend that consists of 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that was grown on the exceptional terroir around the château, which is located in the commune of Pauillac, just north of the hamlet of Artigues, about 2 km inland from the shores of the Gironde. The 27 hectares of vines, which sit about 30 metres higher than the area surrounding them, average 30 years old and are planted on chalky clay and gravel soil. The grapes were harvested by hand and mechanically, then traditionally vinified with thermoregulation in vats for three weeks. The wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of both vats and barrels, with 25% of the barrels new. In the 2018 vintage, Château Plantey was the only Cru Bourgeois listed from Pauillac.
The 2018 vintage in Pauillac began with a relatively mild winter, followed by very complex weather at the beginning of the season, with a deluge of rain and permanently high humidity until mid-July. From the rest of July through September, conditions were incredible, including searing heat, and perfect for achieving great maturity. While the 2018 vintage in Pauillac is considered to be excellent, some of the wines showed a slightly overcooked character, as well as some inconsistencies across the region in quality. Let's see how this 2018 Bordeaux red wine from Pauillac is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU PLANTEY 2018 - AC Pauillac, Bordeaux, France (#38192) (XD) - $44.95 This Cru Bourgeois is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot and has a lovely, elegant, and medium-high to highly aromatic nose of ripe red & black fruits, currant, and cassis aromas layered over earthy-smoky minerality, graphite, and accents of red cherry notes. The weighty, medium-full to full-bodied is dry with medium-firm, well-structured, ripe and slightly chewy tannins that are smooth and fine grained. Ripe flavours of red & black fruits, currant, cassis, black cherry surround a savoury core of earthy minerality and graphite. Touch chalky and grippy textured on the mid-palate, along with some warmth, but still well-balanced. Quite elegant throughout with savoury, graphite mineral notes lingering on the exceptionally long finish. Lovely! Enjoy this highly recommended buy into the early 2030s. Score: 92+ pts
While this wine appears to be sold out at the LCBO, you may be able to get your hands on it through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.
sparkling wine review is a lovely Blanquette de Limoux crafted in the traditional method using the Mauzac varietal. This bubbly was featured as part of the theme on Women in Wine in the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario.
It is produced by Maison Antech, a family-owned winery that has been passionately producing traditional method sparkling wines for seven generations on the hillsides of the Limoux wine region of Languedoc. Each generation has contributed their energy and passed down their exceptional know-how from one generation to the next, with women playing a central role and demonstrating a strength of character each step of the way.
The estate winery was initially established by the Tisseyre-Limouzy family in the late-19th century. Early in the 20th century, the estate was run by Eugénie Limouzy, a dynamic, courageous, and modern woman who lived through wars unbowed to ensure the winery's long-term survival. Eugénie was one of the first women in Languedoc to manage a vineyard. In 1930, Eugénie's niece, Marguerite, married fellow vintner Edmond Antech, merging two winemaking families and giving birth to the Antech name that still stands today.
In 1965, brothers Georges and Roger, the sons of Edmond and Marguerite, took over the reins of the estate. By the 1970s, the brothers had decided to focus on producing only sparkling wines. Joining the estate in 1996 was Françoise, Georges' daughter and the sixth generation of the family. Françoise carried on the family tradition and has played an instrumental role in elevating Maison Antech into one of the region's top sparkling wine producers.
The family has cultivated the land in Limoux since 1860, a land with a unique terroir where the freshness of the Pyrenees mountain range mixes with the Mediterranean climate. Maison Antech is situated at an altitude of 400 metres above sea level, where the vines enjoy ideal growing conditions such as natural drainage, high diurnal temperature ranges between day and night, and the cool breezes coming off the snowy Pyrenees slopes until May. These growing conditions promote the vivacity and tension necessary to produce wines with great effervescence.
With the seventh generation of the family, Françoise's son, Baptiste, also now working at the winery, Maison Antech has been actively engaged in using a sustainable approach to viticulture and winemaking that respects the environment and takes advantage of the omnipresent winds coming off the hillsides. Their efforts are directed towards the development of the Mauzac grape varietal, which is perfectly suited to this microclimate in Limoux. Antech crafts their wines using a minimalist approach, allowing the place to reflect itself without. All the grapes are carefully hand-harvested in order to respect the quality of the grape and preserve freshness. To vinify their wines, the grapes are slowly and delicately pressed, and fermented at low temperatures. The wines spend the winter on their lees, then age for a prolonged period to reveal their complexity. Depending on the wine, dosage is added.
From a very good vintage in Limoux, let's see how this 2022 Blanquette de Limoux sparkling wine is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
ANTECH RÉSERVE M LE MAUZAC EXTRA BRUT BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX 2022 - Traditional method, AP, Languedoc, France (#656470) (D) - $21.95 The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers a fresh, fine, and elegant mix of ripe lemon citrus, yellow & white floral toasty, autolytic, brioche, and leesy mineral aromas, plus touches of stone fruit, apple, and pear. It's light-to-mid-weighted, dry, and gently honeyed with lovely lemon citrus, brioche, toasty, floral, leesy, and stone fruit flavours supported by crisp acidity and bubbles. Leesy, stony mineral, and toasty notes linger on the crisp, dry, and lengthy finish. Versatile for pairing with food and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts
red wine review is the latest vintage of a terrific wine that I've had the pleasure of enjoying several times over the years, including most recently the 2020 Château Guillou a couple of years ago. This Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario.
It is produced by Domaine Familly Saby, a winegrowing family of oenologists with a long history of viticulture and winemaking in Bordeaux that goes back nine generations, with knowledge passed down from father to son since the 18th century. Today, the family business is led by Jean-Bernard Saby, the eighth generation of the family, and his two sons - Jean-Christophe and Jean-Philippe. Considered specialists in Bordeaux's Right Bank, the Saby family owns and operates several estates in this historic region of France, one of which is Château Guillou. The Saby family has successfully combined tradition with modernity to craft exemplary wines, while also focusing on sustainable viticulture.
The estate and vineyard of Château Guillou has existed in its current form since 1870. Situated in the highly-esteemed Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC, just north of neighbouring Émilion and east of Pomerol, on Bordeaux's Right Bank, the estate has 62 hectares of vines. Most of the vines are planted on a plateau featuring clay-limestone soils, and hillsides with clayey-silty soils. Wines in this region are typically Merlot-based blends, with Château Guillou following tradition. This particular red wine is composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were traditionally hand-picked and sorted on tables. To vinify this red, the grapes underwent a cold soak pre-fermentation and foulage, a temperature-controlled fermentation, and malolactic fermentation. It was aged in a combination of second- and third-use French and American oak barrels.
The 2022 growing season began with higher than average rainfall in December, followed by two months of unusually warm and dry weather. March was slightly warmer, with a little more rain than average. Budbreak was slightly delayed due to a cool and wet March, and occurred after a couple of severe frost episodes that appeared at the beginning of April. Vine development was slowed during this period, but sped back up in the latter half of April. Mid-flowering and mid-véraison were both occurring earlier than usual due to intense heat episodes, with June being one of the hottest Junes since 1947! July was hot and dry and featured the second heatwave, which stressed the vines on free-draining soils, followed by a third heatwave in mid-August. From this period onwards, the weather was warm to very hot, and mostly dry. These conditions resulted in the earliest harvest ever for the region. From a surprisingly good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Montagne-Saint-Émilion red wine from the Right Bank of Bordeaux is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2022 - AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $23.95 This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is fragrant and open, with a medium-high intensity nose that has a whisper of reductiveness followed by lovely ripe, plummy, black & red fruit, cherry, blackberry, and currant aromas nuanced with savoury earth, oak, and touches of mineral. Floral notes emerge with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is deliciously ripe with plummy, black & red fruits, cherry, blackberry, currant, cocoa, and savoury earthy oak flavours. It has crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe tannins have a supple, slightly chalky textured grip. Touch of florality and spice on the mid-palate, while the berry notes taper to cocoa, savoury earth, and minerals on the long, succulent finish. Should drink nicely over the next 5-6 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts
One other wine by Domaine Famille Saby is available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
To celebrate , red wine review is the inaugural vintage of this terrific blend of Grenache and Syrah from the Southern Rhône Valley Cru of Rasteau. It was released into the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on as part of the feature story exploring France's top wine regions.
La Ferme du Mont was established in 2000 by Stéphane Vedeau, a third-generation winemaker and viticulturalist who started out by understanding Grenache, paradoxes, agreed impossibilities, climates, and elevation. Stéphane spent countless hours and days performing micro-vinifications and journeys deep into the cellar to gain an understanding of Grenache and its verticality and all its freshness. At this point, a perfect balance didn't exist, but he was getting closer. With further experimentation and acquired knowledge, Stéphane eventually gained notoriety for producing high-quality wines and his attention to detail.
In 2010, Stéphane continued his journey into the northern tip of the Southern Rhône Valley by acquiring Clos Bellane in Valréas. In 2016, a new adventure begins after meeting Jean-François. After the two men reconnected through their passion for beauty and vision of the vineyard, as well as to get to know each other for a couple of years, they decide to form a business partnership and dedicate themselves to discovering the beautiful terroirs in the Rhône Valley. In 2020, the business was expanded further by purchasing 10 hectares of Val de Rois, while giving the former owner, Emmanuel Bouchard, carte blanche to maintain the vineyards at both Val de Rois and Clos Bellane. The latest acquisition took place in 2022, when the business partners purchased 12 hectares and the winemaking cellar in Crozes-Hermitage, in the northern Rhône Valley.
Today, Les Domaines du Mont is made up of these four estates and one vision - to seek the most sensitive and true interpretation of each of their terroirs in the pursuit of natural balance. The philosophy is to let nature express itself freely, as well as the constant pursuit of natural simplicity. With a conviction that everything is already in nature, Domaines du Mont seeks to express the characteristics of their terroirs using a holistic vision, one in which man is a 'guide', rather than a 'maker.' With humility a guiding principle, man must restrain the urge to intervene too much, and thus allow nature and the grapes to express their deepest essence. The goal of purity, finesse, and balance is achieved by using a minimalist approach, gentle and traditional vinification methods, including the use of gravity-fed vinification, indigenous yeasts, and minimizing sulfites well-below the limits authorized in organic wine production.
This particular wine is from La Ferme du Mont, a range of wines which I've had the pleasure of tasting several times over the years. The wines of La Ferme du Mont offer a unique and complex mosaic of vineyards, within the finest terroirs of the southern Rhône Valley. Sensible to the integrity of its environment, Stéphane Vedeau has deciphered, interpreted, and adapted to these terroirs to reveal their most sincere expression. Representative of a simple place where plants live in a constant balance within a biotope rich in different species, the goal is to produce the healthiest and most balanced fruits in harmony with the plant. With a goal of achieving harmony and balance, each vineyard parcel is approached individually and harvested at the point where freshness will remain even at high ripeness.
From the Rasteau Cru, this red wine is a blend of Grenache and Syrah. It gets its name - Les Marnes Bleues - because the grapes were grown on fine, sandy soils underlined by a safre matrix, which has a grey-blue-reflecting terroir that imparts an elegant exuberance to the renowned ripeness of Rasteau, as well as a subtle mineral texture. This vineyard is situated between 160 and 290 metres above sea level. To craft this wine, each grape was vinified separately, with multiple harvests taking place in order to achieve an optimal ripeness level that balances sweetness and harmony for each parcel. It underwent a 5 to 7 week fermentation, without any mechanical extractions prior to pressing, and was aged in uncoated concrete vats situated in a semi-underground cellar.
The extreme conditions during the 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône were marked by intense heat and drought, with the year beginning as a dry winter that saw very little rain. It was followed by a spring that rapidly warmed up, although April did experience a fleeting cold snap. Even though temperatures continued to rise, budburst and flowering were a success. May was abnormally hot, while rain in June brought some relief. Heat and drought during the summer months kept rot and disease at bay, while humidity arrived in August, which revived the vines and greatly benefited the red grape varieties Grenache and Syrah. With high grape quality this vintage, let's see how this 2022 Rasteau from the Southern Rhône is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LA FERME DU MONT LES MARNES BLEUES RASTEAU 2022 - AP, Rhône, France (#40869) (XD) - $26.95 Aged in concrete, this blend of Grenache and Syrah has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is uber ripe and fruit forward with red & black raspberry, black cherry, and touches of dried herb aromas layered over blackberry and stony mineral notes that gain prominence with time in the glass. It is medium-full to full-bodied on the impressively concentrated, dry, and ripe palate with delicious black & red fruits, raspberry, black cherry, blackberry, stony mineral, and dried herbal replays. Harmonious and balanced with crisp, finely tuned acidity and smooth, ripe, and dusty textured tannins that are mildly grippy on the back palate with good structure. Ripe dark fruit, raspberry, savoury stony mineral, and smoke notes linger on long, slightly youthful, and grippy finish. Almost drinks like a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts
Only a few bottles of one other wine by La Ferme du Mont is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.
white wine review is the latest Chardonnay in a line of recent excellent wines by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate of Collovray & Terrier, that has come through the LCBO. This Mâcon-Villages arrived at the LCBO this weekend in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is featured in the theme of the release which explores France's top wine regions.
The origins of Deux Roches begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé, in the south of Burgundy, a few kilometres west of Mâcon. On this land, Joanny made goat cheeses and farmed the land by growing crops, including grapevines. By 1940, Joanny was noted for the quality of his work. In 1956, he was succeeded by his son, Henri, who maintained the family's polyculture, but also expanded the family's vine holdings by purchasing a few parcels of land in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. Henri's son, Christian Collovray, began working the vines at the age of 16 and devoted himself entirely to vine growing.
The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. Jean-Luc Terrier, Léon's son, specialized in viticulture at an agricultural college and crossed paths along the way with his neighbour and childhood friend, Christian Collovray.
The two friends - Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier - shared a love and passion for vines and wine, and married two sisters - Brigitte and Florence - who came from a family of winegrowers. Bringing together two families, the two couples had a dream to create an estate and make wine together using Christian's and his father's vines. The dream became reality in 1986 with the formation of Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", and is named after the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area of Davayé.
Today, there are six members of the Collovray & Terrier involved in the family business, including Julien Collovray, son of Christian and Brigitte, and his wife Caroline, and Pierre-Alexis Terrier, son of Florence and Jean-Luc. Situated in the heart of the Mâconnais wine region in Burgundy, with its soils rich in limestone, Deux Roches is renowned for producing high-quality Chardonnay wines. The philosophy at Deux Roches is to work the soil and respect the vegetation to produce good quality fruit. They aim for perfection by mastering each and every step with each passing vintage, while also adapting to the year's weather conditions. In 2017, with a commitment to the environment, Deux Roches earned their High Environmental Certification - the French certificate for environmental sustainability.
While the excellent 2021 Deux Roches Les Pommards Saint-Véran (and still available for purchase) is from their top-tier Parcel Selections range, this Tradition Mâcon-Villages is from their lower-tiered Timeless Collection - exemplary wines that are crafted for immediate pleasure, sharing, and enjoyment.
This 100% Chardonnay was grown in the Mâcon-Villages appellation of southern Burgundy. The cuvee is a blend of several plots which were selected for their limestone soil and drainage quality, as well as their early, southeast-facing exposure to the sun. This combination of soil and sun exposure characteristics allows Deux Roches to develop straightforward, fruity, lively, and fresh wines in the pure spirit of Mâconnais. After harvest, the grapes are gently loaded by gravity into pneumatic presses, where the grapes undergo slow and long presses in order to delicately extract the juices and preserve aromatic finesse. The musts are cooled and decanted, followed by a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation depending on the vintage. The wine remains in tanks for aging on its fine lees until spring. Inputs such as SO₂ are limited as much as possible throughout the entire process from picking to bottling.
The 2022 growing season in Mâconnais was marked by ample rain in June, including a big rainstorm at the end of the month, which helped slow down the physiological ripening of the grapes during the heat and dry weather of the summer months. The resilience of the vines, along with two weeks of dry and windy conditions that preceded harvest resulted in healthy grapes of good quality. Overall, it is a classic, juicy vintage with quantity. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from Mâcon-Villages is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
DEUX ROCHES TRADITION MÂCON-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, Burgundy, France (#38077) (XD) - $27.95 100% Chardonnay. Lovely, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers elegant ripe apple, pear, lemon citrus, and orchard fruit aromas, plus touches of doughy and leesy characters and hints of white peach, with an underlying stony minerality adding further complexity. The medium-full bodied palate is dry, concentrated, ripe, and honeyed with lovely apple-pear, orchard fruit, lemon citrus flavours accented with mild spice, vanilla, and white peach notes. It has clean, juicy acidity, somewhat creamy, and a fine, mineral texture on the mid-palate. Shows finesse, elegance, and balance throughout with spice and mineral notes lingering on the long, succulent finish. Best enjoyed over the next 3-5 years on its own, with goat cheese, fish, or poultry. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts
A couple of wines by Deux Roches are available at LCBO, while the full line-up can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.
red wine review is a delicious Gamay from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation in France. It is featured in the theme exploring France's top wine regions in this weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is readily available for purchase now.
It is produced by Cave du Château des Loges, a co-operative winery that was established in 1960 by a group of winemakers in the commune of Le Perréon, Beaujolais, who got together and purchased Château des Loges. Housed in the 19th century winery of Château des Loges, they produced their first wines the following year from 47 hectares of Beaujolais-Villages appellation fruit. Cave du Château des Loges continues to be located in the commune of Le Perréon, in the heart of Beaujolais, and has access to vines grown in very diverse terroirs in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation. Cave du Château des Loges is located on a slope between 250 and 800 metres above sea level, a privileged location which allows them to produce wines of high-quality. This area features a very specific terroir consisting of sandy soil resulting from the decomposition of its granite subsoil, creating sandy areas called "Greae". Moreover, by being situated in these sloping hills, the shallow and very stony soil forces the vine to draw minerals and nutrients from this lean terroir where the Gamay grape finds its favourite land.
Today, the co-operative has grown to nearly 150 members and 430 hectares of vines located in different Beaujolais appellations, including the various Beaujolais Crus, as well as different grape varieties beyond Gamay, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Viognier. Furthermore, many of these vineyards are certified HVE3 (High Environmental Value) - the highest level of French certification for environmental sustainability. HVE certification is completely voluntary, with the co-operative's approach to HVE based on the preservation of biodiversity, phytosanitary (reducing treatments), fertilization management, and water resource management. The co-operative is made up of passionate members and workers who work tirelessly to produce a high-quality harvest and craft wines to be enjoyed by all. Their values of solidarity, democracy, equality, fairness, transparency, and proximity distinguish co-operatives from other companies.
This particular wine is from their Les 3 Madones range - named after the 3 Madonnas that are situated in Perréon and Vaux-en-Beaujolais, who watch over the château and cave and protect their vineyards. This Beaujolais-Villages is 100% Gamay Noir that was grown (likely in Le Perréon) on granitic soils in a continental climate. It was vinified using the traditional Beaujolais method of semi-carbonic maceration, followed by ageing in stainless steel vat in order to preserve the crunchy fruit characters typical of wines from Beaujolais.
The 2022 growing season in Beaujolais began with a cold January, followed by a mild February. March had cool weather, which meant that the frosts of early April caused little damage. The rest of April and May was warm and dry, with successful flowering towards the end of May. The usual summer storm arrived in June and caused some hail damage, while July and August were fiercely sunny and warm with a high of 43.5°C (116°F) in early August. Despite light rains in June and August that helped offset the heat, yields were down by one-third (compared to 2021) due to drought and hail. Overall, quality was outstanding during harvest by the end of August, which resulted in aromatic, intense, and intrinsically balanced wines. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2022 Gamay from Beaujolais-Villages is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CAVE DU CHÂTEAU DES LOGES LES 3 MADONES BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, France (#38266) (XD) - $19.95 100% Gamay. The ripe, fresh, fragrant, and medium-high intensity nose is fruit forward with crunchy, mostly red and some black fruits, red currant, black cherry, cassis, and spice aromas with flecks of mineral. The dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is ripe and fruity with black and red cherry, currant, cranberry, and spice flavours. It has fresh, lively, and well-structured acidity, while the impressively textured tannins have good weight and presence. Finely balanced with black cherry, cranberry, currant, and spice notes tapering to minerals on the somewhat grippy, youthful, and lengthy finish. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts
A lovely Brouilly from this producer arrived in LCBO VINTAGES last October and is still available for purchase, while other wines by Cave du Château des Loges can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
Here are my top wine picks from the February 1, 2025 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, which explores France's top wine regions. There are 73 wines in this release, 60% of which are red, and nearly all the wines come in at under $40 and should be available on shelves by this Saturday, if not earlier. Grenache and Syrah (and Shiraz) wine lovers should take particular interest in this release as there are a number of quality, wallet-friendly offerings. The HST holiday is still in effect until Feb. 15. Prices noted below include HST, but will be deducted upon check out in-store.
We'll begin with the feature story that explores France's top wine regions, and of the seventeen wines featured, seven are included among my top wine picks from France. Starting with the whites, there is a consistently fine Sancerre made with Sauvignon Blanc, a Mâcon-Villages from Burgundy crafted with Chardonnay, and the off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) Gewürztraminer from Alsace. Moving to the south of France, the Rasteau is a blend of Grenache and Syrah, the Corbières is composed of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache, while the Fitou from Midi is a blend of Grenache and Carignan. From Bordeaux, there is an excellent Cru Bourgeois that is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The lone mono-varietal red is the Beaujolais-Villages that is crafted with Gamay.
Red wine recommendations from the main release begins in California with a fine 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County's Alexander Valley, followed by the Arrive in Style Riserva Chianti Classico from Tuscany that is 100% Sangiovese. Among the blends, the Chilean wine is crafted with 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Syrah, and 19% Carignan. There are also a pair of Côtes du Rhône-Villages wines, both of which are blends and weren't included as part of the feature story - the Plan de Dieu is the Wine of the Month and composed of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, while the Cuvée Sabrine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and 10% Cinsault. Mono-varietal wines come from down under with a fantastic Pinot Noir from New Zealand, and a Shiraz from Australia.
Among my top white wine picks, all are dry (i.e. not sweet), mono-varietal wines. First up is an excellent Pinot Gris from New Zealand, followed by a Pinot Grigio from northeastern Italy. There are also a pair of fine Chenin Blanc wines from the same producer in South Africa - try both to compare and contrast! Lastly, there is a Falanghina from Basilicata, Italy.
Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Salud!
Red Wine:
ROC DES TEMPLIERS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AC, France (#539916) (XD) - $15.95 89 pts wine review
EMILIANA NOVAS STELLAR SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON / SYRAH / CARIGNAN 2022 - Vegan, DO Valle del Maule, Chile (#35672) (XD) - $17.95 88+ pts wine review
GÉRARD BERTRAND AN 990 FITOU GRENACHE / CARIGNAN 2021 - AP, Midi, France (#403683) (XD) - $17.95
ANDRÉ BRUNEL CUVÉE SABRINE CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AC, France (#538496) (XD) - $18.95
VIA NOSTRUM 2020 - AP Corbières, Languedoc, France (#32040) (XD) - $18.95
CAVE DU CHÂTEAU DES LOGES LES 3 MADONES BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, France (#38266) (XD) - $19.95 89 pts wine review
SIDEWOOD SHIRAZ 2021 - Adelaide Hills, South Australia (#446146) (XD) - $19.95
CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CLEMENTE VII RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#643205) (XD) - $24.95
LA FERME DU MONT LES MARNES BLEUES RASTEAU 2022 - AP, Rhône, France (#40869) (XD) - $26.95 91+ pts wine review
BABICH ORGANIC SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2020 - Sustainable, Vegan, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#37402) (XD) - $28.95
RODNEY STRONG ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#350454) (XD) - $34.95 91 pts wine review
CHÂTEAU PLANTEY 2018 - AC Pauillac, Bordeaux, France (#38192) (XD) - $44.95 92+ pts wine review
White Wine:
JOSEPH CATTIN GEWURZTRAMINER 2023 - Sustainable, AC Alsace, France (#224626) (D) - $18.95
KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2023 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#231282) (XD) - $18.95 91 pts wine review
red wine review is a mature Vacqueyras that I purchased over a dozen years ago when it arrived on shelves across Ontario in the LCBO VINTAGES Release. While this vintage is long sold out, this wine does come through LCBO VINTAGES every fall, with a small amount of the latest vintage (2021) currently available at the LCBO.
This Southern Rhône red wine is produced by the renowned Famille Perrin winemaking family. It is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah that was grown in the Southern Rhone Valley Cru of Vacqueyras. The grapes were hand-harvested and placed in 25 kg boxes. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were crushed and underwent a month-long fermentation, with half going into 50 hectolitre tanks, while the other half was fermented Foudres. The wines underwent malolactic fermentation, and was then blended and aged for one year in a combination of Foudres and barrels.
The growing conditions in the Southern Rhone Valley in 2010 produced an exceptional vintage. There was heavy rainfall during spring, followed by a very hot summer. September featured an Indian summer, which allowed for long hang-time and great harvest conditions. Yield reduction during the initial phase of the growing season greatly benefited the grapes that remained on the vine, which resulted in a legendary vintage that produced very balanced wines with intense fruit notes and great finesse. I imagine that I've held on to this a bit too long, but let's see how this 2010 Vacqueyras is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
FAMILLE PERRIN LES CHRISTINS VACQUEYRAS 2010 - AC, Rhône, France (#973453) (XD) - $23.95 Pours a deep garnet colour. This blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah has an open, medium-high intensity nose that offers mature, stewed dark berry aromas alongside sweet baking spices, leather, dried purple flowers, and savoury wet earth, plus some dried dark berry tones. On the dry, tangy, and medium-full bodied palate, the fruit is shifting into the mature, dried spectrum, and is joined by savoury wet earth, leather, and dried spice flavours. It has tangy, lemony acidity, while the grippy textured and astringent tannins overwhelm the palate. Savoury earth, spice, floral, plus smoky mineral notes linger on the finish, with a touch of heat at the tail end. Enjoyable, but certainly past its drinking window. Drink now if you have a bottle. Score: 89 pts
Just in time for year-end celebrations, sparkling wine review is a beautiful, non-vintage Champagne that is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive.
It is produced by Palmer & Co., a prestigious Champagne house that was established in 1947 by seven families who were also growers that owned prized Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the Montagne de Reims region of Champagne. These seven families shared a desire for perfection and had a vision to create a Champagne house known for its passion and pursuit of excellence, and wines with harmony and balance, qualities that still define the Champagne Palmer style today.
Palmer & Co represents a true search for harmony and balance that was initiated by the 7 founding winegrowers. Today, Champagne Palmer has become a house of reference and is well-prepared for the challenges of tomorrow. Palmer & Co is able to distinguish itself through its grands terroirs of Montagne de Reims, where all of its vineyards are classified as Premier Cru or Grand Cru. Additionally, Palmer & Co also has vineyards in the areas of Côte de Sézanne, Côte des Bar, and Marne Valley, and during the blending process these areas add elegance and balance that are iconic to the Palmer & Co style.
For Palmer & Co, the Cellar Master plays a role that is just as important as the work of nature. To create each cuvée, Xavier Berdin, the Cellar Master at Palmer & Co, and his four oenologists blend the different varieties, crus, and reserve wines until the perfect balance is achieved. A significant percentage of reserve wines constitute the backbone of Palmer & Co's non-vintage cuvées, which are selected for their structure and aptitude for ageing, while also lending richness and depth to the blend. One other important distinguishing factor is that Palmer & Co is one of the few Champagne houses that has adapted the famous Solera system of Jerez to the wines of Champagne with a perpetual reserve system that is refreshed every year with the wines from the latest harvest. For over 35 years, Palmer & Co has been working with three Soleras in two stages - the first in oak casks for the new vintage, and then added to the perpetual reserve in stainless steel vats. Xavier and his team passionately watch over the wines of yesterday, today, and tomorrow with unrelenting vigilance.
The Palmer & Co style is made up of several inspired collections which are an expression of a very special art that combines technical precision with harmony to produce champagnes characterized by their elegance and balance. Palmer & Co Champagnes are expressed fully after a long maturation period in their chalk cellars, which are located 18 metres below ground. The traditional method sparkling wines of Palmer & Co are dominated by the freshness and purity of its Chardonnays, leading to a style that is seductive through its precision and clarity. Pinot Noir adds grace and power, while Pinot Meunier adds generosity, and the significant contribution of reserve wines adds rich fullness and rare maturity.
Palmer & Co is also committed to the environment. They produce wines while respecting the environment and preserving the integrity of the grapes. Palmer & Co is heavily committed to sustainable winegrowing, with an action plan that involves soil and vine nutrition, soil maintenance, treatment of the vines, sustainable protection of the vineyards, and waste management. The technicians of Palmer & Co are actively involved with winegrowers to ensure maximum respect for everyone and the environment in the vineyard and the winegrowing process.
This non-vintage Champagne by Palmer & Co. is the flagship wine of the house. It is made from a selection of the most prestigious terroirs of Champagne, with Premier Cru and Grand Cru grapes of the Montagne de Reims dominating the blend and leaving their mark. It is typically a blend of 50-55% Chardonnay, 35-40% Pinot Noir, and 10-15% Pinot Meunier. This Champagne is also typically composed of a significant amount of reserve wine (30-35%), which brings a rare fullness and maturity to this class of traditional method sparkling wine. This 750 mL bottling is aged on its lees for 4 years, while the Magnum is aged on its lees for 6 years. Crafted in the timeless Palmer-style, this Brut Réserve Champagne exudes excellence and is distinguished above all by its remarkable finesse and elegance. Let's see how this Champagne tastes tonight...
Tasting Note:
PALMER BRUT RÉSERVE CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#39865) (XD) - $85.95 $74.80 Blend of 51% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 19% Pinot Meunier, with 22% reserve wine that was bottled Jan. 22, 2019, aged on its lees for 4 years, and disgorged on Feb. 20, 2023. Lot L23131C. Rich and elegantly fragrant, the medium-high to highly aromatic nose has a lovely, complex mix of biscuit, toasty, brioche, autolytic, lemon citrus, and pear/apple aromas, plus leesy mineral accents. The mid-weighted palate is crisp and refreshing with lovely autolytic, lemon citrus, brioche, toasty, pear, and apple replays on the flavour profile. It has an elegant mouthfeel with crisp acidity and a fine bead of bubbles. Harmonious and well-balanced throughout with fine citrus, toasty, and leesy mineral notes joined by white florals on the long, crisp, and elegant finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts
Limited quantities of other fine Champagnes by Palmer can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.
After enjoying the lovely 2021 Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé a couple of months ago, for white wine review we go up a notch with this excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy that was a brand-new arrival at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty still available for purchase today!
Like the Pouilly-Fuissé, this white wine is produced by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate winery that is run by two long-time friends, Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, who are behind Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine of Deux Roches is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé to the north of the Saint-Véran AOC, and specializes in the production of Chardonnay wines in the Mâconnais style. Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", gets its name from the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area.
Deux Roches' story begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé to farm the land with various crops, including grapevines, and produce goat's cheese. Joanny was a simple tenant farmer and produced some wine on the property, while letting merchants take care of selling the wine. In 1940, Collovray's wines were mentioned in the press for their quality. In 1956, Henri Collovray, son of Joanny, took over the property and extended the family's vineyard holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Christian Collovray, son of Henri, began working the vines and, eventually, gave up animal farming to solely focus on winegrowing.
The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. His son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture, and crossed paths with his childhood friend and neighbour, Christian Collovray. Together, Christian and Jean-Luc shared a love for vines and wines, a bond which grew even closer when they married sisters Brigitte and Florence, who were from a family of winegrowers.
Today, with the next generation joining the family business, Deux Roches is recognized for producing great wines that respect terroir and tradition, at relatively accessible prices. With agricultural roots, they know that everything begins in the vineyard as they work the soil and have respect for the vegetation. Perfection is the objective, while also recognizing that adapting to the year's weather conditions is also necessary. Sustainability is also a core value of Collovray et Terrier as they minimize inputs and use natural processes to stimulate the plants’ own natural defences to control pests and disease. The families also protect and encourage biodiversity, with one of these projects revolving around having beehives on the property in Davayé. Other initiatives in reducing their environmental impact include minimizing the use of water in the cellar and controlling waste disposal, and limiting the use of energy from non-renewable sources.
This white wine is from Deux Roches' top-tier Parcel Selections range - single vineyard wines that are the expression of a specific place with a unique character. Since the beginning, Collovray & Terrier have sought to produce wines that express the individual characteristics of each of their parcels, with their extraordinary organoleptic potential. For the Parcel Selections range, they employ all the techniques and skills available to them, such as hand harvesting and lengthy barrel ageing, to allow the terroir to speak of the superb complexity conferred by the wines' origins.
Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine were grown on a 0.81 hectare plot located in the town of Davayé, on the hillside of the Roche de Solutré. The vines are north-facing, on a 30% slope, and planted between 1975 and 1983 on marly soil that is moderately deep, and is made up of chalk on the surface. The grapes were manually harvested and gently loaded into the pneumatic presses by gravity, followed by long pressing cycles in order to preserve the aromatic finesse. The must was cold-stabilized, then decanted and placed into barrels for fermentation. The wine was aged for 19 months, of which 11 months were in barrels, followed by 8 months in vats.
In 2021, the growing season in Burgundy was challenging due to the season beginning with a hard winter frost, followed by pests and disease which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. Summer was cool-ish, while the wine quality was determined by hard work in the vineyard and at the winery. In challenging vintages, the best vignerons can still produce delicious and harmonious wines exhibiting freshness, energy, elegance, and finesse. Let's see how this 2021 single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
DEUX ROCHES LES POMMARDS SAINT-VÉRAN 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#37919) (XD) - $50.95 This single vineyard Chardonnay has richly elegant, medium-high intensity, and developing aromas of stone and orchard fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle, apple, and pear, plus floral, vanilla, oak spice, flinty mineral, and hints of mushroom add intrigue and great complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with rich and lovely honeyed, nutty, vanilla oak spice flavours surrounding a core of ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, nectarine, and floral. It's nicely textured with very good structure and juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Still somewhat youthful on the structured and textured finish with tangy stone fruit and flinty mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Should drink beautifully into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts
Other fine wines by Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label and can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.
Sunday, June 15, 2025
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