Deux Roches Les Pommards Saint-Véran 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2021 Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé a couple of months ago, for tonight's white wine review we go up a notch with this excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy that was a brand-new arrival at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the November 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty still available for purchase today!

Like the Pouilly-Fuissé, this white wine is produced by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate winery that is run by two long-time friends, Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, who are behind Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine of Deux Roches is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé to the north of the Saint-Véran AOC, and specializes in the production of Chardonnay wines in the Mâconnais style. Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", gets its name from the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area.

Deux Roches' story begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé to farm the land with various crops, including grapevines, and produce goat's cheese. Joanny was a simple tenant farmer and produced some wine on the property, while letting merchants take care of selling the wine. In 1940, Collovray's wines were mentioned in the press for their quality. In 1956, Henri Collovray, son of Joanny, took over the property and extended the family's vineyard holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Christian Collovray, son of Henri, began working the vines and, eventually, gave up animal farming to solely focus on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. His son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture, and crossed paths with his childhood friend and neighbour, Christian Collovray. Together, Christian and Jean-Luc shared a love for vines and wines, a bond which grew even closer when they married sisters Brigitte and Florence, who were from a family of winegrowers.

Today, with the next generation joining the family business, Deux Roches is recognized for producing great wines that respect terroir and tradition, at relatively accessible prices. With agricultural roots, they know that everything begins in the vineyard as they work the soil and have respect for the vegetation. Perfection is the objective, while also recognizing that adapting to the year's weather conditions is also necessary. Sustainability is also a core value of Collovray et Terrier as they minimize inputs and use natural processes to stimulate the plants’ own natural defences to control pests and disease. The families also protect and encourage biodiversity, with one of these projects revolving around having beehives on the property in Davayé. Other initiatives in reducing their environmental impact include minimizing the use of water in the cellar and controlling waste disposal, and limiting the use of energy from non-renewable sources.

This white wine is from Deux Roches' top-tier Parcel Selections range - single vineyard wines that are the expression of a specific place with a unique character. Since the beginning, Collovray & Terrier have sought to produce wines that express the individual characteristics of each of their parcels, with their extraordinary organoleptic potential. For the Parcel Selections range, they employ all the techniques and skills available to them, such as hand harvesting and lengthy barrel ageing, to allow the terroir to speak of the superb complexity conferred by the wines' origins.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine were grown on a 0.81 hectare plot located in the town of Davayé, on the hillside of the Roche de Solutré. The vines are north-facing, on a 30% slope, and planted between 1975 and 1983 on marly soil that is moderately deep, and is made up of chalk on the surface. The grapes were manually harvested and gently loaded into the pneumatic presses by gravity, followed by long pressing cycles in order to preserve the aromatic finesse. The must was cold-stabilized, then decanted and placed into barrels for fermentation. The wine was aged for 19 months, of which 11 months were in barrels, followed by 8 months in vats.

In 2021, the growing season in Burgundy was challenging due to the season beginning with a hard winter frost, followed by pests and disease which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. Summer was cool-ish, while the wine quality was determined by hard work in the vineyard and at the winery. In challenging vintages, the best vignerons can still produce delicious and harmonious wines exhibiting freshness, energy, elegance, and finesse. Let's see how this 2021 single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES LES POMMARDS SAINT-VÉRAN 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#37919) (XD) - $50.95
This single vineyard Chardonnay has richly elegant, medium-high intensity, and developing aromas of stone and orchard fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle, apple, and pear, plus floral, vanilla, oak spice, and flinty mineral, and hints of mushroom add intrigue and great complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with rich and lovely honeyed, nutty, vanilla oak spice flavours surrounding a core of ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, nectarine, and floral. It's nicely textured with very good structure and juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Still somewhat youthful on the structured and textured finish with tangy stone fruit and flinty mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Should drink beautifully into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label and can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages from the Plan de Dieu appellation that arrived at the LCBO last month in the October 19th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2018 Rémy Ferbras Terre de Mistral Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras, a winery with deep roots in the Southern Rhone Valley, at the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards. Owned by Grandes Serres winery, they pay tribute to Rémy Ferbras, its very first cellar master. Rémy Ferbras was an iconic figure of the winery and a tireless advocate of the Rhône terroir and its grape varieties. He succeeded in expressing the full potential of Rhône Valley wines and, through his work and tenacity, contributed greatly to the development and public recognition of Grandes Serres. The Rémy Ferbras range of wines are the result of strict selections, precise vinification, and ageing, methodologies he would've used, to produce wines that are rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

This red wine is a blend of four grapes that were grown in the Plan de Dieu appellation, in the heart of the Southern Rhône Valley. Plan de Dieu is spread across four villages and extends to the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail. In the Middle Ages, the sisters of Prébayon Abbey tended to these lands, which were covered with a vast garrigue forest rife with brigands and other robbers who ambushed travellers. Thus, when travelling in the region, it is best to put yourself in God's hands! Vine cultivation had been practiced in the region since at least 1326, but was abandoned for many years until it was revived during the 1920s. The terroir of this plateau is stony and arid, with soils composed of mainly limestone chippings and brown clay, conditions loved by Grenache.

A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre, the grapes for this red wine were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape was vinified separately using traditional techniques for each grape variety. It underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26-28°C, with two weeks of maceration. After undergoing malolactic fermentation, the individual wines were blended and bottled.

The 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône Valley was marked by intense heat and drought. The year began with a dry winter and very little rain, followed by a spring that rapidly warmed up, although there was a fleeting cold snap in April. Temperatures continued to rise throughout spring, leading to a successful budburst and flowering. May was abnormally hot, while June rains brought some relief. Summer brought intense heat and drought, with some vines struggling, while rot and disease were mostly kept at bay. Some humidity in August helped revive some of the vines. From a very good vintage that was more suitable for red wines, particularly Grenache and Syrah, let's see how this 2022 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre has a fragrant, open, and medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe, lush, and complex aromas of black raspberry, scorched earth, smoky mineral, red plum, black cherry, blackberry, and spice notes. On the crisp, dry, medium+ bodied palate, it has lovely, ripe black raspberry, red plum, cherry, peppery spice, red licorice, and mineral flavours. It has juicy, succulent acidity, and supple, lightly chalky tannins with good structure. Gently tangy on the mid-palate, while lovely smoky mineral and touches of spice notes linger on the long, savoury finish. Absolutely delicious and a highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 3-4 years. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Rémy Ferbras can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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La Chevalière Rasteau 2022 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Grenache-based blend from Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the October 5 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

The La Chevalière label is a joint product between Les Grandes Serres and Rémy Ferbras. Both producers are based in the Rhône Valley and known for their expertise in crafting high-quality wines from the prestigious Southern Rhône Valley appellations. They use traditional winemaking techniques combined with modern practices to express the unique terroirs of the Rhône Valley. With sustainable vineyard practices, hand-harvesting, and meticulous sorting of grapes, both producers work with growers to ensure high-quality grapes are grown.

Like the 2017 La Chevalière Rasteau I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is a blend of four grapes led by Grenache. The 2022 vintage is, in fact, a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. The grapes were grown in the Rasteau Cru, a village located just north of Vaucluse county, between the valleys of Aigues and Ouvèze, in the Southern Rhône Valley. The area of Rasteau has a variety of terroirs, including red marl and sandstone, clay and limestone soils, and is covered with worn pebbles on the surface. After accumulating heat throughout the day, these pebbles are known for their ability to release all that heat at night, which in turn cools down the vines. The Mediterranean climate and diversity of terroirs in Rasteau offers an ideal environment for the wines to fully express their structured, generous, and powerful nature.

To vinify this Rhône red, the grapes were destemmed, softly crushed, and placed in temperature-controlled vats to undergo a three-week maceration with regular pumping-over and délestage (rack and return). After ageing, the different terroirs were blended together to achieve optimum balance for the very differentiated character of this Rasteau.

The 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône was marked by intense heat and drought, with the year beginning as a dry winter that saw very little rain. It was followed by a spring that rapidly warmed up, although April did experience a fleeting cold snap. Even though temperatures continued to rise, budburst and flowering were a success. May was abnormally hot, while rain in June brought some relief. Heat and drought during the summer months kept rot and disease at bay, while humidity arrived in August, which revived the vines and benefited the red grape varieties Grenache and Syrah. Overall, grape quality is high in 2022. Let's see how this 2022 Rasteau from the Southern Rhône is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHEVALIÈRE RASTEAU 2022 - AC, Rhône, France (#18502) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah has a ripe, bright, and lifted nose of medium-high to high intensity that delivers lovely red & black raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, and spice aromas surrounding a meaty, savoury, and mineral core. Some olive and Mediterranean herb aromas appear with time in the glass, adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has spicy, black and red berry fruited raspberry, cassis, savoury mineral, and earthy flavours with some plummy notes. Acids are fresh and tangy, while structured, grainy tannins have some chalky grip. Peppery spice with savoury earth and stony mineral notes linger on the long, grippy, and structured finish. Enjoyable now, and should drink well over the next 6-8 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines from the producers of La Chevalière can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white wine that I first tasted just over a year ago and am delighted to see it arrive at the LCBO as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive and available at 17 stores in Ontario right now.

Deux Roches is the Burgundy winery of Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé, and focuses mainly on white wines made with Chardonnay in the Mâconnais style.

The story of Deux Roches, which means "Two Rocks", begins in 1928 when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé, a few kilometres west of Mâcon, in the south of Burgundy. He farmed the land, made goat cheese, and grew various crops, including vines. As a simple tenant farmer, he made some wine on the property and the merchants took care of selling it, and in 1940, Collovray was mentioned in the press for the quality of his work. In 1956, his son, Henri Collovray, took over the property and extended the family's vine holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Henri's son, Christian, began working the vines and later gave up animal farming to focus solely on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines. Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and always worked alongside local winegrowers. Growing up in this environment, Léon's son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture. Jean-Luc crossed paths along the way with Christian, his neighbour and childhood friend, and together they shared a love of the vines and wines.

Christian and Jean-Luc's bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who were also from a family of winegrowers. The two couples had a dream to create an estate together to make wines from Christian and his father's vines, and in 1986 the dream became a reality. The vines were grouped around the two rocks of Vergisson and Solutré, which led to the name "Deux Roches". From the beginning, each member of the two families played a role, with Christian tending the vines, Jean-Luc responsible for the cellar and sales, and both Brigitte and Florence first worked the vines, then looked after bottling, and finally devoting themselves to administrative and commercial matters as the business grew.

In 2009, Julien Collovray, son of Christian and Brigitte, joined the family business following his studies in viticulture, oenology, law, and economics, and various experiences at other wine estates. In 2012, Caroline Collovray, Julien's wife, also joined the estate as an oenologist with experience in several estates. In 2019, Pierre-Alexis Terrier, son of Jean-Luc and Florence, returned to the Domaine after completing his studies abroad and working in the vines and the cellar at both Davayé and Antugnac in Languedoc.

The philosophy at Deux Roches is to craft wines that express the unique terroirs of the Mâconnais, while working the soil and respecting the vegetation. Their goal is to have perfection, which means mastering each step from the vineyard to bottle, and includes adapting to the year's weather conditions by evolving and experimenting with each parcel. Since 2017, Deux Roches has earned High Environmental Certification for their commitment to the environment, where they use natural processes and minimize inputs to anticipate disease and manage the vineyard, while also promoting and encouraging biodiversity. Collovray et Terrier also work to have the least possible environmental impact in the cellar, including minimizing the use of water and limiting energy use from non-renewable sources.

Domaine des Deux Roches has two lines of wines within their portfolio - the Timeless Collection and the single vineyard Parcel Selections. The Timeless Collection of wines are exemplary, accessible, and made for drinking and sharing with enjoyment for immediate pleasure. The Timeless Collection wines are blended from several vineyards and aged in stainless steel or oak. The aim of the Timeless Collection is to give true expression of the appellations, while also corresponding to their vision of the Mâconnais style - great classics that never cease to please!

This white wine is from Deux Roches' Timeless Collection. It is 100% Chardonnay from 60 to 100-year-old vines grown on the estate and from selected parcels grown by long-standing partner winegrowers who are friends and family. The vines are planted on mainly limestone clay hillsides near the Rocks of Solutré and Vergisson, and also at Chaintré and Fuissé. The selection of grapes from these sites allows Collovray et Terrier to produce a delicate, mineral wine, with bright and refined aromas, as well as a rich, solid structure. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested and gravity-fed into pneumatic presses. Pressing is long and slow to ensure that the juice is delicately extracted and to preserve aromatic finesse. The resulting must is cooled and decanted, followed by alcoholic fermentation in barrel, with 20% in 600 L demi-muids, and less than 10% is new wood, followed by ageing on its fine lees until spring. Inputs are restricted during the entire process, including the use of sulphur dioxide.

The 2021 vintage was a challenging one in Burgundy that began with a hard winter frost, along with pests and disease that wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. It was a cool-ish summer, with wine quality determined by hard work in the vineyard and winery. Let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#488825) (XD) - $49.95
100% Chardonnay. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes a while to reveal the maturing, earthy, stony mineral aromas mingling with baked apple, lemon peel, and whiffs of mushroom and nut. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is deliciously flavoured, structured, and complex with lovely orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, white peach and spice flavours backed by nutty notes and a stony mineral core. It has zesty, well-structured acidity, while stony-leesy mineral, orchard fruit, citrus, and mushroom notes with touches of spice lingering on the long, crisp, and very juicy finish. An intriguing wine to enjoy on its own or with poultry and seafood over the next 3-4 years. Recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Xavier Vignon Lirac 2020 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the follow-up to the excellent 2019 Xavier Vignon Lirac that I enjoyed nearly three years ago. This latest vintage arrived at the LCBO as part of last month's September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Xavier Vins, a wine label that was established towards the end of the 20th century by celebrated French winemaker Xavier Vignon. The story begins while Xavier was studying in the faculty of pharmacy in the Champagne capital of Reims when he caught the wine bug thanks to a chance encounter with an oenologist. This encounter led to Xavier gaining valuable experience at several Champagne houses and was the beginning of his journey into the world of winegrowing and producing wine.

Today, Xavier Vignon is known for using his expertise in blending and deep understanding of terroir to produce high-quality wines from the Rhône Valley. The philosophy at Xavier Vignon is to use an unusual, original, and creative approach that combines daring with inspiration. His time in Champagne and Bordeaux left a lasting impression on him, with strong values in the freedom of blending and the notion of beginning with an idea before embarking on the creation of the wine. Furthermore, each year is different and a source of surprise. The art of blending different grape varieties imparts complexity to the wine, while also enhancing the terroir. As a means to achieve this philosophy, Xavier Vignon has a wide range of ingredients at his disposal, such as grapes, terroirs, parcels, exposures, altitudes, stainless steel, concrete, and wooden receptacles.

With Xavier's deep knowledge of each and every part of the Rhône Valley, he is able to start by selecting a soil, a parcel, and a varietal with the aim of creating the most loyal and harmonious composition possible. Wines are always the result of contrary or complementary unions, and by bringing together these different entities, it provides the opportunity for the best possible result. Therefore, each cuvée is a unique experience that is an expression of vintage, varietal or terroir. It is also a source of emotion that is guided by the pleasure of sharing, and an invitation to not only dream, but also to better understand those landscapes which Xavier holds close to his heart. Xavier Vignon strives to capture this little part of the southern Rhône in the bottle, to encapsulate all of its aromas, colours, and textures, with the ultimate goal of making people happy.

While the previous vintage was predominantly Grenache, the 2020 vintage is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. This cuvée was crafted using grapes from the heart of the Lirac appellation, one of the most southern Crus of the Rhône Valley and covers the best soils of four communes in the Gard. The grapes come from a selection of 15 parcels within the appellation that are mainly made up of rolled pebbles and clay soils. In the vineyard, the grapes were pruned using the goblet pruning method, which helps limit the sugar content and preserves freshness. In a sunny vintage such as 2020, goblet pruning allows natural acidity to be maintained. Upon determining the harvest dates by daily measurement of polyphenols in the berries, the grapes were manually harvested. It was fermented at a moderate temperature to favour soft diffusion of flavour compounds using 100% free-run juice, with extraction by gravity. All the Grenache was vinified and matured in concrete tanks. Meanwhile, 30% of the Syrah was matured in unheated Allier and Vosges barrels for 12 months, with the remainder matured in concrete tanks.

From an excellent growing season that delivered wines of finesse and elegance, let's see how this 2020 Lirac red from the southern Rhône Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON LIRAC 2020 - AP, Rhône, France (#636183) (XD) - $23.95
Mostly aged in concrete tanks, this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a ripe and spicy medium-high intensity nose that offers lovely black & red cherry, peppery spice, blackberry, and stony mineral aromas with touches of floral and oak spice. The dry, medium-full bodied palate shows elegance and finesse with delicious black raspberry, red & black cherry, peppery spice, and mineral flavours, joined by meaty and floral touches that add complexity. It's well-supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity and smooth, fine-grained, and well-structured tannins. It's nicely balanced throughout with savoury mineral notes lingering on the long, gently chalky finish, with excellent length. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90+ pts

Several lovely wines by Xavier Vignon are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Trénel Beaujolais-Villages 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Gamay from Beaujolais that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Maison Trénel, a winery that was created in Burgundy in 1928 by Henri Claudius Trénel. Since the beginning, Maison Trénel's philosophy has been driven by the search for authenticity in their wines, as well as their fruit-liqueurs. To create their products, Trénel chooses the best terroirs in Burgundy and Beaujolais as the source of their fruit. With Burgundy tradition the cornerstone of Maison Trénel, the taste of authenticity has been present since its founding.

Today, Maison Trénel is renowned for its wines, specifically from the Beaujolais and Mâconnais areas. Trénel has also become a local reference as the winery was passed down from Henri Claudius to his son, André, and remains a familial authentic company, a philosophy that shared with the famous Maison M. Chapoutier, with whom they collaborate with today.

Trénel is dedicated to crafting high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroirs from across Beaujolais and Burgundy. While embracing sustainable vineyard practices, Trénel uses traditional winemaking methods and focuses on minimal intervention during the vinification process to allow the wines to express the specific terroir, climate, and geology of each area.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Gamay from the Beaujolais Villages AOP. There are 38 Villages that make up the Beaujolais Villages AOP, which produce wines of distinction and character. Most of the grapes in this red wine come from the areas of Le Perréon and Clochermerle, in the south of the AOP. These regions' undulating landscapes are perfectly suited to Gamay Noir. The Gamay used to craft this wine are from 30 to 60 year old vines which are planted facing southeast, on silty clay granite soil. After hand-harvesting the grapes, they underwent an 8-10 day maceration, 30% of which were destemmed. After fermentation, the wine was aged for 6 months in concrete tank, and then bottled without fining, but a light filtration.

The 2022 growing season in Beaujolais began with a cold January and a mild February. This was followed by cool weather in March, which helped prevent frost damage in April, while the rest of April and May was warm and dry, leading to an even and successful flowering. Violent summer storms, which often come to this continental zone, arrived at the end of June and caused some hail damage. The summer months of July and August were fiercely sunny and warm, leading to some drought losses and lowered yields during harvest. However, the quality of the grapes was outstanding, leading to aromatic and intense wines with fine balance, sap, and poise, especially from those grown in clay and granite soils. Let's see how this 2022 Beaujolais-Villages Gamay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TRÉNEL BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, France (#487140) (XD) - $19.95
100% Gamay. The open, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is spicy with savoury earth aromas layered over ripe black fruits, black cherry, plus touches of cassis, floral, cranberry that emerge with time in the glass. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it is ripe with black cherry, cassis, spice, earth flavours with touches of cranberry. It has crisp, clean, and fresh acidity, along with supple, slightly grippy tannins. Pleasing mineral notes join the dark cherry, earth, and spice flavours on the finish, with very good length. This shows better balance with time in the glass and will be better in 6 to 12 months. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Trenel can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Les Turitelles Altugnac Pinot Noir 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Pinot Noir from the Upper Aude Valley in the Languedoc region. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves across Ontario as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Domaine Altugnac is the Languedoc wine estate of two winegrowing families - Collovray & Terrier. The estate of Altugnac is situated in Antugnac, on the edge of Languedoc, on the Pyrenean foothills, where the vines flirt with the scrubland and the woods, between sunny days and cool nights, and at the crossroads of the Atlantic and Mediterranean winds. Antugnac is a peaceful village that is dominated by an amphitheatre of mountains, surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, and an invitation to imagine and create unique wines.

The Collovray & Terrier arrived in Antugnac in 1997 with a desire to explore new horizons and take on new challenges. Coming from Burgundy, the quality of the white wines in Languedoc appealed to them, especially those from high in the Aude Valley where mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted on limestone soils. Moreover, the harvest dates of these grapes were within a few days compared to those back home in Davayé (Burgundy), while the vegetative cycles were also very similar.

At the time, the domaine was owned by Mr. Ramirez, a founding member of the association of private cellars, and one of the first to imagine Chardonnay in the Aude Valley. Upon taking over the domaine in 1997, the Collovray & Terrier families undertook the colossal project to revitalize the 45 hectares of vineyards and rebuild the facilities.

Today, there are six members of the Collovray & Terrier families that work with a strong sense of cohesion within the family business, and with the support of a close-knit, loyal, and dedicated team. Their philosophy begins with strong roots in agriculture, where everything begins in the vines. It is widely known that working with the soil and respecting the vegetation are the prerequisites for a healthy, ripe, and good quality crop. While adapting to the year's weather conditions, the team at Altugnac has the know-how to evolve and experiment, in order to ensure that each variety is harvested at the optimum moment. The goal is to reveal the diversity of their terroirs, while also protecting and developing the biodiversity in and around the vineyards.

Collovray & Terrier has three ranges of wines within the Altugnac label. The excellent 2021 Altugnac Terres Amoureuses that I enjoyed last year (with a few bottles still available at LCBO) is from their Les Terroirs d'Altitude range, while this red wine is from their Les Turitelles d'Altugnac range. Turitelles are marine fossils that are found in abundance in their plots situated on the slopes of the Upper Aude Valley. This area experiences significant diurnal temperature variations between night and day, and when combined with clay-limestone soils, helps promote slow and complete maturation of the grapes to produce are range of aromatic and fresh wines.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in their vineyard that is full of Turitelles fossils on the slopes of the Upper Aude Valley. These fossils are the origin of their soil and are carried by a limestone and clay base, which form the sloping plateaus in the landscape. This terroir in the foothills of the Pyrenees is known for the quality of its hillsides and its sunny and cool microclimate. To vinify this wine, the harvested grapes were placed into vats by gravity. They underwent a few days of cold, prefectural maceration, along with daily, gentle pickling and winding, to extract a beautiful aromatic palette and silky tannins. Two weeks after a controlled-temperature alcoholic fermentation, below 25°C, the juices are tasted, followed by malolactic fermentation and ageing in stainless steel or concrete tanks for several months, with bottling taking place within a year from harvest. From harvest to bottling, inputs are limited as much as possible, including the reduction of sulphites.

From a hot and dry growing season that is rated as a very good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Pinot Noir from Languedoc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES TURITELLES ALTUGNAC PINOT NOIR 2022 - IGP Pays d'Oc, France (#37921) (XD) - $19.95
The ripe, medium+ intensity nose offers mild mannered, yet typical, Pinot characters of red & black cherry, and strawberry aromas with touches of beet root, earth, and black tea. The ripe notes continue on the light-to-mid-weighted palate with red & black cherry, strawberry, beet root, earth, and black tea leaf flavour replays. It has fresh, succulent acidity, while the light, supple tannins have a gentle, chalky textured mouthfeel. A touch grippy, with dark berry, earthy, and hints of mineral linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Small quantities of the Amoureuses, while the entire portfolio of wines by Collovray et Terrier can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Ormarine Carte Noire Picpoul de Pinet 2023 (Southwest) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious Picpoul that is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving as part of last weekend's September 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cave de l'Ormarine, a well-known co-operative winery located in the Languedoc of southern France. Its story begins in 1922, when a group of winegrowers in the town of Pinet gathered together in the spirit of solidarity and formed a winegrowers' association. However, the story of Pinet goes back much further - 2000 years.

It all started in the year 118 B.C., when a Roman General Domitius Aheobarbus built a military road across Gaul to link the Italian Peninsula to the Iberic Peninsula. The famous via Domitia went across the vineyards of Pinet and opened the path for the wine trade and promoted the expansion of the vineyards. The historical grape variety Picpoul, also known as Piquepoul, was first quoted in 1618 by the famous botanist J.B. Magnol in his book and called it one of the six best-known grape varieties of Languedoc.

Fast-forward to 1922, and the 53 winegrowers of Pinet came together officially to enhance the white wine produced from the terroirs of Pinet. Ets Noilly Prat of Marseillan bought all the wines produced at the cellar and was responsible for the marketing and sales of the wines. In 1985, after several long years of investment to improve the quality of their wines and create brand awareness at both the national and international level, the producers of Cellar Ormarine were able to get Picpoul de Pinet classified as an AOC and joined the large family of AOC Côteaux du Languedoc. Even though the Languedoc region is mostly known for its blends, the appellation of AOC Picpoul de Pinet is dedicated solely to dry white production and permits the use of only one single grape variety - Picpoul.

In 1992, the co-operative cellar celebrated its 70th anniversary and re-introduced itself to the market as Ormarine. In 2008, the cellar merged with the Cooperative Cellar of Villeveyrac, allowing them to produce more wine, and gave birth to its new and current name - SCA Cave de l'Ormarine. In 2013, the Cooperative Cellar of Cournonterral joined Ormarine, which allows Ormarine to produce wines from a wide variety of appellations and grape varieties. In 2017, two more mergers occurred, bringing together 470 united coopérators operating more than 2,500 hectares of vines.

With "Terroir Discovery" their slogan, Ormarine benefits with access to grapes from a wide area extending from the Cévennes to the Mediterranean to produce high-quality wines. These grapes benefit from the maritime influence of the Etang de Thau, as well as the limestone clay and red sandstone soils. In Pinet, which is situated just north of Etang de Thau, the terroir is mainly composed of limestone clay soils, while its proximity to the Lagoon and the Mediterranean Sea plays a role in regulating and reducing temperature variations. The Marin, Tramontane, and Mistral winds also help keep the vines healthy and reduce disease pressure. Omarine is also committed to nature and the environment, as they embarked on a path to organic viticulture in 2011. Furthermore, in 2018, Ormarine obtained Terra Vitis certification, which highlights sustainable and integrated winegrowing.

This white wine is crafted using the Picpoul grape varietal that was grown in the AOP Picpoul de Pinet appellation, within the Languedoc region of southern France. This 100% Picpoul de Pinet was grown on homogeneous limestone clay soils that open out to the sea. After undergoing plot selection in the vineyard, the grapes were harvested at night, then underwent another round of selection upon arriving at the winery. The grapes underwent a cold, pre-fermentary maceration, followed fermentation at low temperature, and then matured in thermo-regulated vats. The wine was then filtered and bottled at the estate. From a challenging year of extremes, let's see how this 2023 Picpoul de Pinet is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ORMARINE CARTE NOIRE PICPOUL DE PINET 2023 - AP, Southwest, France (#38396) (XD) - $14.95
Screw cap enclosure. This Picpoul de Pinet has an attractive, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe apple, lemon citrus, white floral, and orchard fruit aromas with hints of limestone minerality and white spice. It's light-to-medium bodied on the dry palate with slightly honeyed flavours of apple, white-fleshed orchard fruit, lemon citrus, and white pepper spice notes which are supported by refreshing, saliva-inducing, and food-friendly acidity. It's nicely textured, a touch creamy, with stony mineral and spice notes appearing on the mid-palate. Stony mineral notes linger on the long-lasting, savoury finish. Ideal with seafood and a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Ormarine can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose Rosé 2023 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is a delicious, vegan-friendly dry rosé wine from Languedoc that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the August 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bijou Wines, a wine producer based in the heart of the South of France. Originally established in the Languedoc in 2012, Bijou Wines has since expanded into Provence and specializes in the production of rosé wines.

With a talented team of growers and winemakers, Bijou's stance has always been to produce best-in-class wines. Bijou sources their grapes from unique, lesser-known, but authentic terroirs such as Coteaux de Béziers, Coteaux Varois en Provence, and Haute Vallee de l'Aude in Limoux. Framed as "affordable luxury", Bijou wines are comprised of the very best expressions of old and low-yielding Mediterranean grape varieties, and recognized around the world by critics as authentic and delicious, with beautiful aromas and flavours, and good structure to allow the wines to be enjoyed with or without food.

At Bijou, sustainability is always at the top of mind. The vision is to provide quality wine sustainably by using greener approaches from vineyard to packaging. In 2019, their growers in Coteaux de Béziers (where this wine is from) obtained the HVE Level 3 certification. Today, more than 95% of Bijou's wines are sustainably farmed as HVE3 and organic certified. With climate change and weather patterns changing, adapting viticulture is paramount. As such, Bijou began using the sustainable Caladoc grape varietal in their blends starting in 2019. Caladoc is a crossing of Grenache and Malbec that is resistant to intense heat and drought. In the realm of packaging, Bijou uses lightweight bottles, as well as an extraordinary range of sustainable and environmentally-friendly 1.5 L pouches that significantly lowers their carbon footprint.

This particular rosé is from Bijou's Sophie Valrose line of wines, which also includes a white and red. The "Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose" range is named after a lady who worked in the vineyards of Languedoc during the late 19th century and became a local hero. In that era, it was largely women who worked in the vineyards to prune and harvest the vines, while often mistreated, overworked and underpaid. Not pleased with the situation, Sophie fought for women's rights and drastically improved the working conditions for her fellow women who also worked in the vineyards. As a tribute to Sophie and her legacy, the back label of every bottle in this range shares her story. Each wine in this range is crafted using grapes sourced from handpicked bush vines, just like those that Sophie would have harvested herself many years ago.

The rosé is a blend of 45% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, 10% Caladoc, and 5% Syrah from 25-50 year-old well-trellised and low yielding bush vines. The grapes were grown on cool, alluvial clay soils within the Coteaux de Béziers appellation of Languedoc. After harvesting the grapes early in the morning, when temperatures are cooler, in order to preserve fresh acidity and balanced sugar levels, the grapes are destemmed and direct-pressed, with the Syrah undergoing a light maceration on its skins. The four grapes separately underwent a long and cool fermentation, and were then blended together, clarified, and stabilized prior to bottling. From a growing season that was a challenging year of extremes, let's see how this 2023 rosé from Languedoc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE BIJOU DE SOPHIE VALROSE ROSÉ 2023 - Vegan, IGP Coteaux de Béziers, Languedoc, France (#20012) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap and pours a pale copper-pink colour. This blend of 45% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, 10% Caladoc, and 5% Syrah has a medium+ intensity nose that delivers ripe Mandarin orange, red apple, grapefruit, citrus, and melon aromas with honeyed peach overtones. It has good weight on the medium+ to medium-full bodied and dry palate with refreshing acidity and flavours of citrus, grapefruit, red apple, strawberry, red berry, plus touches of peppery spice. It has a slightly creamy mouthfeel on the mid-palate, while hints of oyster shell and saline mineral notes appear on the citrusy, lengthy, and very juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious Bijou wines can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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LAVAU Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious blend of Grenache Blanc and Viognier from the Rhône wine region of France. It made its debut at the LCBO in the recent August 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario right now.

It is produced by Maison LAVAU, a winery that was founded by the Lavau family in 1965. The Lavau family had already been involved in winemaking for several generations when Jean-Guy Lavau, the third generation of the family, and his wife, Anne-Marie, returned to France from Tunisia in the mid-20th century. By 1964, the couple decided to take over a small winemaking cellar in the southern Rhône Valley village of Sablet. Together, the Lavau's built a reputation as one of the region's top winemakers thanks to their dedication to high-quality standards, attention to detail, and thirst for excellence.

Today, Maison LAVAU is a major player locally in the Rhône Valley as it has developed close ties with other winegrowers in the region. Maison LAVAU is led by brothers Frédéric and Benoît Lavau, the sons of Jean-Guy and Anne-Marie. The brothers completed their studies in Canada and joined the family business - Frédéric in 1995, followed by Benoît two years later, and by 2000, the Lavau brothers had taken over the family business because their parents opted to retire. Frédéric and Benoît's youthful energy and adventurous spirit allowed them to further structure, develop, and improve the Maison, including building a new cellar in Violès and investing in modern, high-performance cellar facilities. Maison LAVAU has long-running partnerships with more than 250 winegrowers who have over 140 hectares of vines across the appellations of Rhône Valley. Moreover, the Lavau brothers are also talented winemakers and wine traders, and invested in vineyards so they could produce their wine using their own grapes. As one of the last family-run and independent wine estates in the Rhône Valley, Maison LAVAU's main objective is to offer the very best of the Rhône Valley by producing quality wines that are fine, generous, and affordable, while also expressing the unique characteristics of the Rhône Valley's terroirs.

This white wine is a blend of 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Viognier that was grown in selected vineyards in the Vaucluse and Gard departments of the Rhône wine region, from vines planted in clay-limestone soil on plains and hillsides. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes underwent a light skin maceration, then pressed and placed into temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Fermentation was carried out at a low temperature to preserve the fruit. The wine was aged in stainless steel vats, on its fine lees, without malolactic fermentation, in order to preserve the crisp and crunchy character of the wine.

The 2022 growing season was the hottest and driest vintage in the Rhône since 1950! The season was marked by extremes, beginning with a dry winter that saw very little precipitation, while spring rapidly warmed up, although there was a fleeting cold snap in April. Budburst and flowering were a success, even though temperatures continued to rise. May was abnormally hot, while June brought some relief with rain. Summer was marked by heat and drought, with rot and disease mostly kept at bay, while August brought some humidity which helped revive some of the vines. Faced with the increasing regularity of these growing conditions, it would appear as though the vines have learned to adapt by slowing down their growth rates and maturity cycles. From a vintage that favours white grape varieties, let's see how this 2022 Côtes du Rhône Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAVAU CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022 - AC, France (#36914) (XD) - $16.95
This 60/40 blend of Grenache Blanc and Viognier has a fresh, medium+ intensity nose offering attractive aromas of fresh and ripe pear, apple, lemon citrus, Mediterranean herbs, and grapefruit with accents of white floral and white peach. Intriguing leesy and mealy aromas emerge with time in the glass. On the weighty, medium-full bodied, and dry palate it has very good concentration with a fleshy mouthfeel and delicious ripe pear, apple, white floral, yellow fruit, lemon citrus, grapefruit, and spice flavours with some honeyed overtones. It has very good acidity, while pear, apple, floral, and spice notes linger on the long-lasting and juicy finish. With the alcohol starting to peak through, you'll want to chill well and enjoy this recommended buy over the coming year. Score: 88+ pts

Other lovely wines by Maison LAVAU can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Terre Davau Tavel Rosé 2023 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is a lovely, organic Tavel from Rhône that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO and landed on shelves across Ontario in last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 24th.

It is produced by the Château de Manissy, an historic winery situated in the Tavel appellation of the southern Rhône Valley in France. The Château has a long history dating back to the 17th century. In more recent history, the Château and its lands were bequeathed to the Missionary Brothers of the Holy Family after the First World War. Soon thereafter, the Brothers planted their first vines and released their first Tavel wines for use at Mass and general consumption. The motto of the estate was introduced as "Auspice Clara Manissy Stella" – "Under the Protection of the Bright Star of Manissy", and continues to be used today, which also led to the estate's name - Château de Manissy.

Even though the brothers lived at the Château all those years (and continue to do so today), as they grew older they decided that they needed someone new to manage the vineyards. As such, in 2003, the young Tavel winemaker Florian André arrived at the estate and wholeheartedly carried out the brothers' work. Florian comes from 7 generations of Tavel winegrowers who know and love their terroir. With great respect for the vine and wine, Florian began converting all the vineyards to organic in 2009, followed by the progression to biodynamic agriculture. After joining Château de Manissy, Florian also created a new range of wines - one of which is the Domaine Terre Davau line.

Today, all Château de Manissy's vineyards, which are spread over 60 hectares across the appellations of Tavel, Lirac, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Cotes du Rhône, are farmed biodynamically. The soils in these vineyards are sandy clay and topped with either limestone fragments or "galets roulés", Rhône Valley's classic rounded pudding-stones. The vines get plenty of Mediterranean sunshine and are swept by Mistral wind, the ideal conditions for vinegrowing which dry up excess moisture in the soil and helps prevent disease, resulting in a healthy vineyard full of healthy grapes.

Domaine Terre Davau is Château de Manissy's winegrowing estate in the village of Roque sur Cèz (considered officially as one of the most beautiful villages in France), in the northeast of the department of Gard, about 40 km northwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and is a true gem of the Rhône Valley. The estate of Domaine Terre Davau is named after a savoury herb and medicinal plant, locally once known as "davau", which grows freely in the area. The domaine's historic vineyards are situated on south-facing terraces, ascending a gentle slope, and have been in the hands of Florian's mother's side of the family for six generations. The grapes of Domaine Terre Davau are vinified at Château de Manissy's site in Tavel.

This Tavel Rosé is crafted using a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Clairette, and Cinsault from 40 to 50-year-old vines that were grown on a small, 13-hectare parcel that has pudding stones over sand and blue clay soil. The grapes were hand harvested, and upon arriving at the winery they were destemmed, crushed, and cold-soaked for 12–24 hours prior to pressing. It underwent alcoholic fermentation by native yeasts at low temperatures for about 15 days, without malolactic fermentation, and was aged in stainless steel tanks prior to bottling.

From a promising vintage across the southern Rhône Valley, let's see how this 2023 Tavel Rosé is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE TERRE DAVAU TAVEL ROSÉ 2023 - AC, Rhône, France (#37680) (XD) - $19.95
This organic rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Clairette, and Cinsault. It has a hint of reduction that gives way to reveal a medium-high intensity nose of stony minerals and a red berry medley of strawberry, pomegranate, raspberry, and currant aromas, as well as some dried herbs and white pepper spice. On the dry, flavourful, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has lovely red berry, currant, pomegranate, strawberry, and cherry flavours, plus savoury stony minerals, dried herb, and peppery spice replays Slightly creamy mouthfeel with crisp, juicy acidity on the well-structured palate. Red berry, currant, spice, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, dry, and gently chalky finish. Should be even better in a year or two. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Château de Manissy can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Château Clou du Pin 2021 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely follow-up to the lovely 2020 Château Clou du Pin Premium that I enjoyed just over a year ago. This red wine is coming to the LCBO next weekend as part of the August 10, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES Release Collection (which was merged with the Aug. 24th Release due to the strike) and is already available for purchase in-stores and online right now.

It is produced by Domaines Fontana, a family winery that was founded in 1950 by Huguette and Angelo Fontana. The young couple, who were in their mid-twenties, had a dream in mind and settled in the small town of Gensac in Gironde, about 15 km southeast of Saint-Émilion and 60 km east of Bordeaux. They chose Gensac because of the wealth of the land in the area where they could plant vineyards and build a cellar.

As the vineyard grew over the years, so did the Fontana family, as Huguette and Angelo had 5 children who grew up in the heart of the Estate and picked up their parent's passion for viticulture and wine. As adults, the boys of the second generation of the Fontana family joined the business and helped it grow by acquiring plots of neighbouring vines and investing in various trades that were present at the Estate. Huguette and Angelo's grandchildren, the third generation of the Fontana family, have also joined the family Estate and bring with them their modernity, a fresh gaze, dynamism, and youth, as well as a common desire to share their passion for the vine and wine.

Today, Domaines Fontana has over 300 hectares of land, most of which is situated within the commune of Gensac, but also extending over neighbouring and bordering communes. The family has worked hard to make their wines known across the globe, to try and reach as many consumers as possible. Domaines Fontana is certified HVE3 (High Environmental Value), a certificate which recognizes good environmental and health practices in the vineyard. Their main objective is to achieve the highest level of quality by combining tradition with innovative techniques to produce wines which they are proud of, as well as praised by those who taste them.

Like the previous vintage, this red wine is crafted using 100% Merlot that was grown on clay-limestone soils, on hillsides which are situated up to 120 metres above sea level. The vines have south-southwest exposure to the sun, which is ideal for ripening grapes to full maturity. Domaines Fontana practices both traditional and reasoned viticulture from pruning to vinification. The soil is enriched with only organic manure. To craft a structured and concentrated wine, only grapes from low-yielding plots are selected during harvest. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 30 days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel vats which are equipped with a thermoregulation system with micro-oxygenation that is monitored. It was aged for a minimum of 12 months in barrel.

The 2021 growing season in Bordeaux posed several challenges, including frosts, millerandage, and mildew, but with careful viticulture and hard work, some very good wines were made. Winter was mild and wetter than usual, which resulted in early budbreak. However, this meant that vulnerable buds were exposed to the damaging frosts of early April. This resulted in poor fruit set, which affected yields. May brought cool weather, which slowed vine growth, while heavy rainstorms fell from June to early-July, keeping vignerons on their toes as they tried to guard against mildew development. Fortunately, conditions were much improved in August and September with the arrival of warm and dry weather, which stopped the rot and promoted ripening. From a cooler-than-average growing season, let's see how this 2021 Bordeaux Supérieur red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU CLOU DU PIN 2021 - AC Bordeaux Supérieur, France (#28727) (XD) - $18.95
This 100% Merlot has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that delivers currant, cassis, black cherry, wood spice, black plum, sweet spices, and earthy aromas with touches of mineral adding further complexity. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has lovely, balanced aroma replays on the flavour profile. It's supported by fresh, gently tangy acidity and smooth, supple tannins with good structure. Earthy, savoury, and minerally on the long, juicy finish. Enjoyable now and over the next 5+ years. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaines Fontana can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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La Ferme du Mont Le Ponnant Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2022 (France) - Wine Review

To celebrate Father's Day, tonight's red wine review is an excellent GSM-blend Côtes du Rhône-Villages that is a frequent visitor to the LCBO, with the latest vintage arriving on shelves across Ontario last weekend in the June 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by La Ferme du Mont, a notable winery situated in the Southern Rhône Valley of France. La Ferme du Mont is a relatively new project in the context of French winemaking, led by winemaker Stéphane Vedeau, and has gained notoriety for its high-quality wines and attention to detail.

With more than two decades of experience as a viticulturist and winemaker, Stéphane Vedeau is a 3rd generation winemaker who continues the traditions from his mother's side of the family. Stéphane has a deep understanding of the Rhône Valley's terroir and winemaking traditions. With La Ferme du Mont, the aim is to create wines that express the unique characteristics of the terroir, emphasizing minimal intervention in the winemaking process to allow the terroir to shine through.

In the vineyard, the goal is harmony. The plants live in a permanent equilibrium in the middle of a biotope rich in different species. The goal is to have the healthiest grapes, which take up most of the time and effort, as well as grapes that are balanced and in harmony with the plant and the natural environment, as well as be in harmony of fruit, juices, and breeding.

Having tasted several vintages of this red wine in the past, this is generally a Grenache-led blend, with this 2022 vintage composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre. The grapes were grown in the Southern Rhône Valley in a region dominated by a rocky peak and rounded stones in the vineyards, while the climate is warm, dry, and influenced by the powerful Mistral winds. The combination of these factors allows Stéphane to use an environmentally-friendly approach to viticulture, with minimal intervention. To vinify this wine, the grapes were lightly pressed and then underwent a long fermentation of 5 to 6 weeks, with soft extractions. To fully express the terroir, two-thirds of the wine was matured in concrete tubs for at least 8 months, out of contact with air, while the remaining was aged 225 L and 500 L barrels to increase complexity. The wine is bottled without filtration.

The 2022 growing season was marked by intense heat and drought. The year began with a dry winter that saw very little rain, followed by a spring that rapidly warmed up, although April did experience a fleeting cold snap. Budburst and flowering were a success, even though temperatures continued to rise. May was abnormally hot, while rain in June brought some relief. The summer months were marked by heat and drought, conditions which keep rot and disease at bay. The vines were revived in August thanks to some humidity, and benefited the red grape varieties Grenache and Syrah. Overall, grape quality is high, which will produce some sophisticated, age-worthy wines. Let's see how this 2022 Côtes du Rhône-Villages red wine from the Southern Rhône Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA FERME DU MONT LE PONNANT CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, unfiltered, France (#171371) (XD) - $26.95
This lovely GSM blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic, and complex nose of black cherry, raspberry, kirsch liqueur, black peppercorn, and spice with hints of stony minerality. On the medium-full bodied palate it is chewy, ripe, dry, slightly warming and spicy with delicious dark berry-cherry, black raspberry, black peppercorn, stony mineral, and earthy flavours. Acids are crisp and refreshing, while the smooth tannins have some structural and textured grip. Lovely stony mineral notes linger on the long, grippy finish. Should drink nicely to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other lovely wine by La Ferme du Mont is available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Rhonéa Tradition Rasteau 2021 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Southern Rhône Valley red from the Cru Rasteau appellation that is arriving at the LCBO this weekend as part of the June 8th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - and is available in many stores already.

It is produced by Cave de Rasteau - Rhonéa (formerly Ortas), a co-operative winery that was formed after the merger of two historic co-operatives who had deep roots in the Rhône Valley going back to the year 1925. As a co-operative, Rhonéa is today a collective of 400 families of Artisan Winegrowers who have over a combined 2,900 hectares of vineyards that have been cultivated in Rhône's terroirs for 3 to 4 generations.

The initial project at the beginning of the 20th century consisted of only a handful of passionate and visionary families who laid the first stones of the village wineries. Their aim was to create a shared asset which put everyone's talents to use in order to provide the best conditions for producing, ageing and selling wines.

Rhonéa is the innovative, new generation co-operative model made up of 400 families who are winegrowers with small vineyards averaging 10 hectares each. They are united with a common passion, but with know-how that has been passed on from one generation to the next to create their own, unique stories. With perfect knowledge of their terroirs, plots, and grape varieties, they aim to reveal the very best of them. All Rhonéa winegrowers are committed to ethical and sustainable winegrowing, vintage after vintage. The main mission of Rhonéa is to craft wines that are accessible, without compromising on quality, while also innovating with sustainability commitments, which includes social responsibility and environmental protection, at the top of mind.

I enjoyed a previous incarnation of this wine, the 2017 Ortas Tradition Rasteau, nearly five years ago, and like that wine, this edition is also mainly Grenache. In fact, this edition is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan. The grapes were grown on terraces of clay, limestone, and pebbles on the plain, and blue marls on the hills situated between 200 and 250 metres altitude, facing the Dentelles de Montmirail. After manually harvesting, sorting, and destemming the grapes, they underwent a traditional vinification with long maceration and partial punching down.

The 2021 growing season for red grape varieties presented many difficulties with frost, hail, and rain. With poor weather, disease, pests, and low yields, the vintage will be remembered for being atypical, but also resulting in qualitative, fresh, lush, and tasty wines. Let's see how this 2021 Southern Rhône red from Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RHONÉA TRADITION RASTEAU 2021 - AP, Rhône, France (#998716) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is musky and woodsy, giving way to a core of ripe raspberry, black cherry, black pepper spice, stony minerals, and black olive aromas, with touches of savoury earth. On dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied, and slightly warming palate it has savoury stony minerals, black raspberry, black cherry, woodsy oak spice flavours. Acids are crisp, fresh, and juicy, while the supple, fine-grained tannins have with some textural grip. Savoury stony mineral and spice notes linger on the well-structured finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 88+ pts

Other lovely wines by Rhonéa can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Beau-Site 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful Left Bank Bordeaux red wine from the Saint-Estèphe appellation that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent May 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Borie-Manoux, a wine merchant whose origins started as a wine trading company that was established in 1870 by the Borie family. Today, Borie-Manoux is a significant wine merchant in the Bordeaux wine industry with a rich history and a diverse portfolio of estates. Borie-Manoux is currently owned and managed by the Castéja family, with Philippe Castéja as President.

Château Beau-Site is one of Borie-Manoux's Bordeaux wine estates. Situated in Saint-Estèphe, it was founded in the 18th century and is one of the oldest estates in the commune. At the time of its founding, it was part of Château Morin. Its name - Beau-Site - reflects its scenic location as it overlooks the entire vineyard and has magnificent panoramic views extending towards the Gironde river. Château Beau-Site's first owner was M. de Camiran, while in the 1860s it became the property of M. Grazilhon, at which point in time the name was changed to Château Beau-Site-Grazilhon.

The term "Cru Bourgeois" is used to describe wines of great quality and value, and graced the bottles of Château Beau-Site wines for the first time, starting in 1868. A few years later, the château was upgraded to Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and continued until the 1990s. A change in ownership in the 1920s led to the château reverting to its original name, with Mme Faugeras managing the property for several decades before selling it in the 1940s to M. Legendre.

In 1955, Château Beau-Site joined the Borie family after it was acquired by Marcel Borie. Marcel worked hard to restore the château to its former glory, and as part of this restoration, all the wines were now made and aged on-site, with the vat room filled with wooden vats. Towards the end of the 1950s, Marcel took over Château Haut-Vignoble Seguin, a 5-hectare vineyard that now produces Château Beau-Site's second wine.

After Marcel Borie died in 1961, his son-in-law, Émile Castéja, took over the reins and over the ensuing decade Émile replaced the wooden vats with epoxy-coated metal vats. By the end of the 1980s, he had replaced some of the metal vats with stainless steel vats.

In 2001, Émile Castéja retired and was succeeded by his son, Philippe Castéja. Upon taking over, Philippe quickly began work on the Château by making a number of improvements, such as digging an underground passageway between the barrel cellar and the vat room to make it easier for visitors to get around. In 2005, the tasting room was set up at the entrance to the barrel cellar and offered a view over the estuary. In 2006, the vat room's interior was completely refurbished, while the Château was completely refurbished and refurnished so that it could accommodate the family of Chantal Preben-Hansen, Philippe Castéja's sister, as well as visitors.

Sustainable winemaking practices were initiated by Philippe when he took over, and developed them further from 2014 as he was able to convince the family and team that the environment was an integral part of the wines and important for consumers. Since that time, the Casteja family has continuously sought ways to increase their commitment to sustainable winemaking. With sustainability at the top of mind, traditional vineyard work is still carried out with precision to ensure the highest quality grapes. The old vines have been carefully preserved to produce distinguished and elegant wines comparable to those of its illustrious neighbour, Château Calon-Ségur. At the winery, precision winemaking is terroir-focused.

As Saint-Estèphe is part of the Médoc region and situated at the northern tip of the Haut-Médoc, on the Left Bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux, the area has been planted with vines since Roman times, and further developed by English merchants from the Middle Ages onwards. The drainage of marshland in the 17th century led to further increases in surface land area and vineyards. The Saint-Estèphe AOC was officially recognized in 1936 thanks to its diverse climate and geology. The oceanic climate is temperate, but warm enough for the vines to thrive, while the soils are composed of gravelly alluvium, limestone, and oyster marl.

As the flagship of the estate, the 2018 vintage of this elegant wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. The grapes were traditionally picked by hand and sorted on tables in the vineyard, then transferred into tipping buckets which carry the grapes back to the winery. Each plot was vinified separately, fermentation occurring over four weeks in small-capacity, temperature-controlled vats, at fairly low temperatures. Gentle extractions help preserve the fruit, while allowing the terroir to express itself. Each plot was aged in French oak barrels (approx. 40% new) for 6 months, then blended and aged a further 12 months prior to bottling on-site.

From the excellent 2018 vintage, let's see how this 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE 2018 - AC Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France (#647933) (XD) - $48.95
This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot has a rich, ripe, and brooding nose with medium-high to high intensity aromatics of dark red and black fruits, currant, cassis, and black cherry notes joined by spicy, fine wood spices, and sandalwood surrounding a core of savoury forest floor. On the dry, full-bodied bodied palate it is rich, spicy, and a touch warm with savoury earth, fine wood spice, blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, and graphite mineral flavours accented with dried herbs. Some licorice and clove spice notes appear on the mid-palate to add further interest. Acids are juicy and mouth-watering, while the refined, well-structured tannins have a gently chalky textured mouthfeel and are quite approachable at this stage. Savoury, graphite, and dried herb notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Will improve further with age and enjoy into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Borie-Manoux can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2021 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of one of my perennial favourites that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 27th.

It is produced by Le Vins de Roquebrun, a co-operative winery that was founded in 1967. It is located in Haut-Languedoc Natural Regional Park, approximately 30 km north of Béziers, between Montpellier and Toulouse. Le Vins de Roquebrun is the largest producer in the Saint-Chinian appellation of Languedoc, consisting of 70 winegrowers that cultivate over 700 hectares of vines, plus 30 members in the cellar. Together, their philosophy is to create wines of originality, balance, and power.

Le Vins de Roquebrun is particularly noted because of its terroir - the mild and relatively arid climate, and in combination of schist soils, which allows for particular development of grapes within the Saint-Chinian Appellation. The resulting wines are typical of the region and of recognized quality. The soils in the Saint-Chinian Appellation are more than 450 million years old and among the oldest in France. The schist soil is commonly a brown or green rock, sometimes red, with a flaky appearance. As a fine-grained rock, it is composed mostly of clay flakes and tiny fragments of other minerals, all of which are laminated by the compression of clay in the heart of the earth's crust. The laminated and fractured rocks allow the roots of the vines to infiltrate deep into the ground in the search for natural groundwater, picking up minerals along the way. The minerals in the hills and valleys of Roquebrun retain water and store heat. This heat is released slowly at night, and it is said that the grapes still grow during the night. The main objective of the winegrowers of Roquebrun is to highlight the typicality of the terroir, and thanks to their efforts, the communal appellation of AOP Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun was created in 2005.

In the vineyard, Le Vins de Roquebrun only uses a set of qualitative grape varieties, while being respectful of culture. They also have rigorous specifications to regulate pruning methods, trellising, phytosanitary treatments, and yields, with a large part of the vineyard using drip irrigation to supply the vines with water. At the winery, Roquebrun uses strict specifications depending on the grape type and quality. All the grapes are manually harvested, which allows for sorting in the vineyard. Red wines, such as this wine, are often vinified using carbonic maceration, a technique that converts the sugar into alcohol without the use of yeast. The wine cellar is situated in an air-conditioned, semi-buried storehouse, and contains 900 French oak barrels and 56 stainless steel vats, all of which are used for ageing wines, depending on the wine and vintage. As of 1998, Le Vins de Roquebrun added a bottling line and a Bag-in-Box machine to its facility.

I've enjoyed this unoaked red many times over the years, with the most recent vintage being the 2018 Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun a few years ago. The 2021 vintage of this lovely red wine is a blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre, from selected plots that were grown on schistous soils. The grapes were manually harvested, then brought to the winery and vinified in whole bunches using carbonic maceration in vats for 25 to 30 days. It was aged in stainless steel vats in an insulated and air-conditioned cellar, and bottled at the property.

The 2021 growing season in Languedoc had severe frosts in April, which drastically cut yields. Summer conditions were hot and dry, and put the vines under drought stress, while heavy September rains arrived too late to offer much help. Overall, it is a small crop and quality is variable throughout the region. However, I am optimistic about this consistently well-made red from Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun. Let's see how this 2021 red wine from Languedoc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN LA GRANGE DES COMBES SAINT-CHINIAN-ROQUEBRUN 2021 - AC, Languedoc, France (#155804) (XD) - $21.95
This unoaked blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre has a fresh, lifted nose of medium-high to high intensity that is ripe and spicy with lovely red & black fruits, blackberry, raspberry, cherry, peppery spice, stony mineral, and dried herb aromas with touches of meaty and savoury notes. It is notably mid-weighted on the dry palate with complex ripe blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, savoury meaty, stony mineral, black pepper spice, and dried herb flavours supported by tangy, juicy acidity. The smooth, refined tannins have some chalky textured and youthful grip. Stony mineral with touches of spice linger on the slightly tangy, crisp finish, with excellent length. Well-balanced and ready to drink now, but will provide pleasure over the next 5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

The delicious 2022 Cave de Roquebrun Soleil de Schiste is currently available at the LCBO, while the rest of the portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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