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white wine review is a delicious blend of Grenache Blanc and Viognier from the Rhône wine region of France. It made its debut at the LCBO in the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario right now.
It is produced by Maison LAVAU, a winery that was founded by the Lavau family in 1965. The Lavau family had already been involved in winemaking for several generations when Jean-Guy Lavau, the third generation of the family, and his wife, Anne-Marie, returned to France from Tunisia in the mid-20th century. By 1964, the couple decided to take over a small winemaking cellar in the southern Rhône Valley village of Sablet. Together, the Lavau's built a reputation as one of the region's top winemakers thanks to their dedication to high-quality standards, attention to detail, and thirst for excellence.
Today, Maison LAVAU is a major player locally in the Rhône Valley as it has developed close ties with other winegrowers in the region. Maison LAVAU is led by brothers Frédéric and Benoît Lavau, the sons of Jean-Guy and Anne-Marie. The brothers completed their studies in Canada and joined the family business - Frédéric in 1995, followed by Benoît two years later, and by 2000, the Lavau brothers had taken over the family business because their parents opted to retire. Frédéric and Benoît's youthful energy and adventurous spirit allowed them to further structure, develop, and improve the Maison, including building a new cellar in Violès and investing in modern, high-performance cellar facilities. Maison LAVAU has long-running partnerships with more than 250 winegrowers who have over 140 hectares of vines across the appellations of Rhône Valley. Moreover, the Lavau brothers are also talented winemakers and wine traders, and invested in vineyards so they could produce their wine using their own grapes. As one of the last family-run and independent wine estates in the Rhône Valley, Maison LAVAU's main objective is to offer the very best of the Rhône Valley by producing quality wines that are fine, generous, and affordable, while also expressing the unique characteristics of the Rhône Valley's terroirs.
This white wine is a blend of 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Viognier that was grown in selected vineyards in the Vaucluse and Gard departments of the Rhône wine region, from vines planted in clay-limestone soil on plains and hillsides. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes underwent a light skin maceration, then pressed and placed into temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Fermentation was carried out at a low temperature to preserve the fruit. The wine was aged in stainless steel vats, on its fine lees, without malolactic fermentation, in order to preserve the crisp and crunchy character of the wine.
The 2022 growing season was the hottest and driest vintage in the Rhône since 1950! The season was marked by extremes, beginning with a dry winter that saw very little precipitation, while spring rapidly warmed up, although there was a fleeting cold snap in April. Budburst and flowering were a success, even though temperatures continued to rise. May was abnormally hot, while June brought some relief with rain. Summer was marked by heat and drought, with rot and disease mostly kept at bay, while August brought some humidity which helped revive some of the vines. Faced with the increasing regularity of these growing conditions, it would appear as though the vines have learned to adapt by slowing down their growth rates and maturity cycles. From a vintage that favours white grape varieties, let's see how this 2022 Côtes du Rhône Blanc is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LAVAU CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022 - AC, France (#36914) (XD) - $16.95 This 60/40 blend of Grenache Blanc and Viognier has a fresh, medium+ intensity nose offering attractive aromas of fresh and ripe pear, apple, lemon citrus, Mediterranean herbs, and grapefruit with accents of white floral and white peach. Intriguing leesy and mealy aromas emerge with time in the glass. On the weighty, medium-full bodied, and dry palate it has very good concentration with a fleshy mouthfeel and delicious ripe pear, apple, white floral, yellow fruit, lemon citrus, grapefruit, and spice flavours with some honeyed overtones. It has very good acidity, while pear, apple, floral, and spice notes linger on the long-lasting and juicy finish. With the alcohol starting to peak through, you'll want to chill well and enjoy this recommended buy over the coming year. Score: 88+ pts
Other lovely wines by Maison LAVAU can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
white wine review is a lovely, organic, Viognier-based white wine blend from Rhône that arrived at the LCBO over the long weekend in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.
It is produced by Les Vignerons du Castelas, a co-operative winery that was established in 1952 by a handful of winegrowers that were keen to combine their efforts and wills to produce appellation wines of high quality. The co-op is located in Rochefort du Gard, between Pont d'Avignon and Pont du Gard, on the right bank of the Rhône River, and is named after a XII century Romanesque chapel that is perched atop the village. The origins of Rochefort du Gard as a winegrowing village goes back to 1933, when it became one of the first villages to be approved in the, at the time, very young Côtes du Rhône Appellation, officially gained its status within the appellation in 1937.
Following the formation of the co-op, the winery opened its doors three years later, in 1955, on the eve of harvest, and inscribed on the cellar walls was the quote "Less wine but better" - a philosophy that still holds today. Since that time, several generations have followed one another and, together, they continue to make wines with respect for tradition, while also respecting the people and the land.
Today, 45 families of winemakers, who are attached to their land and vineyard, form Les Vignerons du Castelas. Together, they have over 450 hectares of vineyards, mainly in the Côtes du Rhône appellation, with four distinct soil characteristics - deep soils on stony spreads, marl soils, sandy soils, and Villafranchian terraced floors - with each soil type playing an important role in the character of the wine. The families of winegrowers cultivate their quality vines in order to create supple and pleasurable wines for every occasion. The winemakers of Rochefort du Gard are committed, by vocation, to healthy vines on a living soil, to create wines that express the enthusiasm and sincerity of their work accomplished with passion, knowledge, and sensitivity.
The name of this wine - Le Monarque - comes from the butterfly that is found in their region, in the Rhône Valley, and migrates every summer to Africa, travelling more than 4,000 kilometres during its journey. As a wine that seems to show up every couple of years, I last enjoyed the 2019 Les Vignerons du Castelas Le Monarque Côtes du Rhône Blanc just over two years ago. For this vintage, it continues to be a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne, as per the back label. The grapes were grown on sandy marl soils which are mainly composed of clay, limestone, and carbonate sand. The grapes were harvested by machine at night to preserve freshness and underwent a slow, 1-month fermentation in temperature-controlled vats. The wine was matured in concrete tanks and bottled at the property without any added sulphites. Let's see how this 2022 Côtes du Rhône Blanc is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS LE MONARQUE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022 - AP, France (#18570) (XD) - $17.95 This organic white wine is a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne. Fragrant and highly attractive aromas of yellow and white florals, lemon citrus, ripe apple, and pear with white peach and herbally tones. It's medium-full bodied and impressively concentrated on the fleshy palate with lovely yellow and white floral, lemon citrus, apple, pear, and herbal replays in a dry flavour profile. Some leesy mineral notes appear on the nicely textured, slightly oily palate. Juicy with fresh, zesty acidity, while citrusy, orchard fruit, and leesy mineral notes linger on the long, succulent, and lightly spicy finish. Lots going on here and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
A perennial favourite of mine that seems to get better every vintage, white wine review is this lovely wine from Roussillon that arrived at the LCBO today as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
M. Chapoutier is the legendary producer from Rhône whose origins go back to the year 1808. In 1990, the renowned Michel Chapoutier took over the reins of the family business. In 2000, he forayed into Roussillon when he purchased his first estate in the region. Michel set up Domaine de Bila-Haut in Latour-de-France, Roussillon, an area with an intense, forceful, and sometimes violent past with contoured terraces, stony soils, and a rich geology. Michel's children, Mathilde and Maxime, have since joined the family business to form the next generation of the Chapoutier family to perpetuate the family's tradition and vision to craft biodynamic wines which express the full potential of its terroir and true character of the soils.
I enjoyed the 2020 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc last November, and while the 2021 growing season was a tough year across France where most regions experienced record rainfall, Roussillon suffered its most severe drought in the last 10 years. However, Chapoutier's use of biodynamic practices helped save the day! A cold winter led to later than normal budburst, while frost only affected a few of Chapoutier's plots on the plains and lower valleys - their Domaine is actually located in the upper reaches of the Agly Valley. Cool weather continued into late spring, and summer was not as hot as recent years, with no scorching hot days. This worked out well given the lack of water.
In Roussillon, the growing season runs counter to the rest of the winegrowing regions where the lack of water, combined with biodynamic growing practices, avoids any cryptogrammic pressure and they were able to bring in a perfectly healthy crop. When there is a lack of water, biodynamic compost, fermented forest litter help to invigorate the soil, and horn dung, allowed Chapoutier to produce an average harvest in terms of quantity, where much of Roussillon is recording the smallest harvest in its history. 2021 produced a later than average harvest due to some rain at the beginning of September. The grapes ripened during the second half of September, without excessive heat, and produced a very fine vintage.
This delicious white wine continues to be a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. The grapes come from two places - limestone, clay soils and gneiss in the Agly Valley, and granite soils at higher altitude (500 metre), later ripening sites. The grapes were manually harvested early in the morning to preserve freshness, and hand-selected to protect the aromas. At the winery, after pressing, the must is cold-settled. It underwent fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing for a few months (on its lees) in order to preserve freshness and enhance minerality. Let's see how this 2021 Côtes du Roussillon Blanc is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
M. CHAPOUTIER BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC 2021 - AP, Midi, France (#485656) (XD) - $16.95 Composed of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. Elegant, yellow floral, herbs, waxy, and lemon pith aromas rise out of the glass with hints of grapefruit and smoke. It's medium-full bodied with a rich mouthfeel and ripe flavours of lemon citrus, grapefruit, yellow floral, orange, white peach, and herbs with melon and mineral undertones. Acids are fresh and lively. Some spiciness and a subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate. Nicely balanced with a satisfyingly long, crisp, minerally finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
You can get other lovely wines by M. Chapoutier at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dandurand.
wine reviews are a pair of lovely, organic wines from southern Rhône that arrived at the LCBO for the first time last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Château de Nages is a family-owned operation located in Costières de Nîmes that has been passed down over the generations. The family's history at Château de Nages begins with Joseph Torres, the family patriarch who at 68 years of age purchased this southern Rhône estate during World War II. After the passing of Joseph, the estate was managed by his son-in-law Alfred Gassier.
Today, the highly-acclaimed Michel Gassier is the fourth generation of the family to manage the estate. Situated in the heart of a Natura 2000 zone (an ecological network of protected areas of the European Union), the vineyards are planted with typical Rhône varietals and organically farmed. They are firmly committed to protecting their ecosystem and using resources wisely. To produce their fabulous wines, they combine ancestral know-how with modern techniques and with an absolute respect for the soil.
Both of these wines are from Château de Nages' ButiNAGES collection, which also includes a rosé. ButiNAGES, which means "gather nectar", is a metaphor that describes both the style of these wines, as well as the vineyard approach that allows us to achieve it. The grapes for these wines come from their younger vineyards, but receive the same attentiveness as their other cuvées. ButiNAGES wines are crafted with purity of fruit in mind to produce fresh, crisp, and unoaked wines with a soft mouthfeel. While the producer suggests that these are easy-drinking crowd pleasers (which they are), the quality offered in these wines are far superior than what you would normally find in an easy-drinking crowd pleaser type of wine. The 2019 vintage was outstanding in the Southern Rhône Valley, while the 2020 vintage for white wine varietals was very good. Let's see how these lovely wines are tasting tonight...
Tasting Notes:
BUTINAGES WHITE 2020 - AP Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#20906) (XD) - $16.95 Screw cap. Blend of 70% Grenache Blanc and 30% Roussanne that was aged on fine lees in concrete vats with batonnage for 3 months. Elegant, fragrant, medium-high intensity aromatics are leesy mineral-inflected with lemon citrus, grapefruit, and white florals nuanced with ripe apple, stone fruits, and white peach. The palate is dry and impressively concentrated with flavours of apple, stone fruit, grapefruit, citrus, and white floral. Nicely balanced with fresh, succulent acidity. Saline minerals with citrusy notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts
BUTINAGES RED 2019 - AP Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#20637) (XD) - $16.95 Screw cap. Unoaked blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre that was destemmed without crushing to keep only whole berries. It was blended and aged on lees in vats for 6 months. The medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely bouquet of dark cherry, raspberry, wild herbs, smoky minerality, garrigue, peppery spice, and subtle meaty nuances. It's medium-full bodied with rich, ripe, supple, and dusty tannins that have a subtly textured grip. Flavours of dark cherry, raspberry, licorice, peppery spice, smoky minerality, and garrigue are lifted by fresh, vibrant acidity. Finishes long and juicy with smoky mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts
Other lovely wines from Château de Nages are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.
This white wine is produced by the legendary Rhône producer M. Chapoutier. The origins of this company go back to the year 1808, but today it is owned by Michel Chapoutier who took over the reigns in 1990. In 2000, Chapoutier purchased its first estate in Roussillon and this particular wine is from Domaine de Bila-Haut, a domain that Chapoutier founded in Latour-de-France, Roussillon. Today, Mathilde and Maxime, the children of Michel, form the next generation of the Chapoutier family to join business, and together they perpetuate the family tradition and vision to craft wines based on the concept of terroir.
For this vintage, the blend remains a mix of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. The grapes come from limestone, clay soils, and gneiss in the Agly Valley, as well as from granite soils at 500 metre higher altitude, later ripening sites. There were manually harvested early in the morning and hand selected to protect the aromas, following by pressing and fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. It was aged for a few months in order to preserve freshness and enhance minerality. Despite record-low yields in what was a challenging growing season, the 2020 vintage, in general, produced wines exhibiting the perfect trilogy of elegance, freshness and complexity. Let's see how this 2020 Roussillon Blanc is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LES VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC 2020 - AP, Midi, France (#485656) (XD) - $15.95 This lovely blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu has fresh, elegant, ripe, and honeyed aromas of floral, lemon citrus, orange blossom, and apple rising out of the glass with hints of grapefruit and smoky notes. On the medium+ bodied, slightly creamy palate, it has very good concentration with lovely, ripe, honeyed flavours of floral, lemon citrus, grapefruit, and leesy minerals in a dry flavour profile. It's very well-balanced and nicely textured with fresh acidity, while leesy minerals, with touches of white florals and citrus lingering on the long, flavourful, and slightly spicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
Other lovely wines from M. Chapoutier are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Dandurand.
wine review is a delicious white wine from Côtes du Rhône. It's a new arrival to the LCBO and is featured as part of the theme on fresh French sippers in the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Les Vignerons du Castelas is a co-operative winery that was formed in 1952 by a handful of winegrowers that were keen to pool their efforts to produce appellation wines of high quality. The winery is located on the right bank of the Rhône River, between Pont d'Avignon and Pont du Gard in Rochefort du Gard, and named after Romanesque chapel from the XI century that is perched atop the village.
Today, there are 50 families of winegrowers that form Les Vignerons du Castelas to make wines that respect traditions and employ agricultural practices that respect the people and the land. Together, these winegrowers cultivate over 500 hectares of vines, with the majority in the Côtes du Rhône appellation. They are attached to their terroirs and vineyards, and are committed to healthy vines and living soils, while striving to pursue a "lutte raisonnée" form of viticulture to minimize their impact on the land.
This white wine is named "Le Monarque", after the butterfly that migrates from the producer's region every summer to Africa, a journey that can be more than 4,000 kilometres. This cuvée is a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne from vineyards that are undergoing conversion to organic in order to promote responsible viticulture and also preserves biodiversity. The grapes were harvested in the morning to preserve freshness, then destemmed and fermented, and finally aged on the lees for 6 to 8 months prior to bottling.
Tasting Note:
LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS LE MONARQUE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2019 - AP, France (#18570) (XD) - $15.95 This delicious blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne has fresh and fragrant floral aromas off the top, followed by white peach, orange, ripe melon, and touches of sweet herbal notes. The dry, medium-bodied palate is ripe and slightly honeyed with pretty, floral, honeysuckle, peach, orange citrus, and melon flavours supported by fresh acidity. Some bitterness and leesy minerals add to the peach, melon, orange, and floral notes on the long finish. Lovely Spring sipper! Score: 88+ pts
Other delicious wines from Les Vignerons du Castelas can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
white wine review is a lovely Côtes du Roussillon Blanc by M. Chapoutier that returned to the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES Release.
The origins of this historic and highly-acclaimed winemaking company date back to the year 1808, with the Chapoutier name entering the picture in 1897 and Marius Chapoutier becoming the sole owner of the company in 1922. In 1929, Marius created the new winery at the foot of the Hermitage hill. Upon the passing of Marius, his son, Marc, took over the family business and changed the name to what we see today - M. Chapoutier.
In 1990, current owner and legendary Michel Chapoutier became the head of the company and began to apply the principles of biodynamic cultivation. In 2000, Chapoutier purchased its first estate in Roussillon. This particular wine is from Domaine de Bila-Haut, a domain that Chapoutier founded in Latour-de-France, Roussillon. At first, there were a couple of wines created to express this terroir, then followed by six years of reflection, observation, and analysis. Over time, more wines were added to the portfolio, as well as adding other sites in Roussillon.
Today, Mathilde and Maxime, the children of Michel, form the next generation of the Chapoutier family to join business. Together, they perpetuate the family tradition and vision to craft wines based on the concept of terroir.
I enjoyed the 2015 Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc back in and am delighted to open the 2018 vintage tonight. This bottling is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu varietals that were grown on sites belonging to Domaine de Bila-Haut. Some of the grapes come from limestone, clay soils, and gneiss in the Agly Valley, while the rest were from granite soils located on higher altitude (500 metres elevation), later ripening sites. The grapes were manually-harvested and hand-sorted to protect the aromas, while vinification occurred in stainless steel tanks, and ageing lasted only a few months to enhance freshness and minerality. Let's see how this white wine from Roussillon is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LES VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC 2018 - AP, Midi, France (#485656) (XD) - $15.95 This blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu has lovely floral, lemon citrus, grapefruit, and ripe apple aromas of medium+ intensity with touches of smoky mineral. The dry, medium+ bodied palate is slightly fleshy with fresh, crisp and lively acidity to support the ripe lemon citrus, grapefruit and white floral flavours, with fine mineral notes arriving on the long, crisp finish. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts
Other lovely wines from M. Chapoutier can be found at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Dandurand.
wine review is a lovely organic white wine from Rhône that most recently came to LCBO VINTAGES on and is still readily available across Ontario.
It is produced by Château de Nages, a winery in Costières de Nîmes, within the southern Rhône Valley that I had the pleasure of visiting in May 2018. In fact, I recall tasting this delicious wine when I visited the winery.
For the Gassier family, the story of Château de Nages begins when Joseph Torrès, Michel Gassier's great grandfather, purchased the southern Rhone estate during World War II. Upon Joseph's passing, his son-in-law, Alfred Gassier inherits the property while remaining in Algeria with his wife. However, his four children reconstruct their lives in France with his eldest son, Jean Gassier, arriving first and restoring the badly neglected farm. Alfred's second son, Roger Gassier, arrives soon thereafter and revives Château de Nages, eventually passing along the magnificent vineyard and exceptional winery to his son, the highly-acclaimed winemaker Michel Gassier.
The JT White is dedicated to visionary founder Joseph Torrès and uses Roussanne and Viognier grapes that come from their very best parcels in the extreme north of the appellation where the terroir consists of grès (rolled pebbles) from the Rhône River over red clay soils rich in iron. There is also some Grenache Blanc in the blend, and all of the grapes were grown according to certified organic farming techniques, with a particular attention to soil health. The fruit was manually harvested and underwent natural yeast fermentation in French oak barrels, followed by some lees ageing prior to blending and bottling.
Having tasted this particular vintage on at least three separate occasions over the last few years, I am curious to see where this barrel-fermented white wine is in its evolution. Let's see how it is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
MICHEL GASSIER CHÂTEAU DE NAGES JT WHITE 2015 - AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#485854) (XD) - $26.95
This barrel-fermented blend of 64% Roussanne, 20% Viognier, and 16% Grenache Blanc pours a medium yellow gold and has medium+ intensity aromatics featuring rich and complex notes of lemony, waxy, paraffin, butter, and pear with touches of saline. It's full-bodied on the rich palate with buttery, pear, lemon, herb, slightly smoky wood, and leesy flavours followed by touches of saline. It's nicely textured with very good acidity, but also shows some heat on the mid-palate. Long, smoky finish with touches of saline, lemon, and pear. Enjoy now, nicely chilled. Score: 90 pts
The of our wine tour through the southern Rhône Valley took us through Lirac and Tavel AOCs. This day followed visits to Luberon and Ventoux, Cairanne, and Costières de Nîmes earlier in the week.
Tavel is located on the right bank of Rhône River. It achieved AOC status since 1937 and was actually the second to establish Cru status, right after the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This southern Rhône Valley Cru is also unique in that it is the only Cru where all appellation wines must be rosé wine.
Vines have been cultivated in Tavel since the 5th century BC, first planted by the Greeks and then expanded by the Romans. The name "Villa Tavellis" first appeared in 13th century writings, eventually becoming Tavel. From 1737, a royal edict made it illegal to add foreign wines to those from Tavel and winemakers were also required to mark their barrels with "C.d.R." (Côte du Rhône), thus setting the precedent for what would become the AOC. In 1902, Tavel vineyard owners and winemakers formed a union to build the reputation of their rose wines. This eventually led to winemakers from Tavel petitioning the Gard to officially define the production area and become an AOC in 1937.
The soils in Tavel are mainly composed of alluvial, sandy, marly limestone, and crystalline & gravelly limestone, while the climate is Mediterranean where the sun and mistral winds are dominant. Nine grapes are permitted in Tavel, and no more than 60% of one varietal can be included in the final blend. Thus, all Tavel wines are blends, with Grenache often being the base. Traditionally, Tavel wines typically have a darker red colour due to the longer maceration times, where the grape skins have more contact with the must and creating wines that are more powerful and even somewhat tannic. However, there is a trend currently towards lighter rosés from Tavel due to the success of the lighter styles from Provence.
The introduction to Tavel actually began , during a lovely dinner at the Michelin-starred Entre Vigne & Garrigue with Thomas Giubbi of Vignobles & Compagnie, and Guillaume Demoulin of Château Trinquevedel. We tasted some of their latest Tavel wines, as well as got to try a 2014 Tavel that showed how well Tavel wines can age.
Vignobles & Compagnie was formed in 1963 when the growers of the department of the Gard came together with the aim of promoting Rhône Valley wines. The cellar, which was strategically located near the Pont du Gard, was also created at this time, is still in use today, and recently gained Heritage Status. The company has changed hands over the years, with Jean-Marie Berteau taking over the reins in 1972 and remaining in charge for 34 years. It was during this period that site underwent modernization and experienced major economic growth. In 1990, the Taillan Group took over activities and formed partnerships with local winegrowers. In 2011, Thomas Giubbi became the Managing Director at Vignobles & Compagnie and worked on grape supply to improve the quality of the wines, a task he continues to work on as he forges partnerships with many vineyards across the southern Rhône Valley. Vignobles & Compagnie is committed to working alongside its partner winegrowers to support, develop, and secure the future of these family estates by providing assistance in the vineyard, vinification, and the ageing process. The also help these estates market their wines. Thomas and his team are working towards exporting their wines to Ontario.
Guillaume Demoulin is the 4th generation of his family to farm the vineyards at Château Trinquevedel. His great-grandfather, Eugène, founded the 13th century estate in 1936 and began to the revive the site that was overrun with wild weeds. By 1960, the grapes were finally producing wine worthy of bottling. Today, there are 32 hectares of estate vineyards located in the hills Montagne Noire and planted to varietals such as Grenache, Cinsault, and Clairette. Soils consist primarily of sand and quartzite rounded stones. Wines are crafted to show typicity and quality of the Cru while using traditional and innovative wine growing techniques, while also respecting the environment.
In addition to the roles at their respective company's, Thomas and Guillaume are also co-presidents of the Syndicat Viticole de l’Appellation Tavel winemakers association. Among their more recent activities is the introduction of a new, modernized coat of arms that will be embossed on the neck of Tavel wines. This was a 2-year project that will finally be realized beginning with the 2018 vintage.
Entre Vigne & Garrigue is a small, family-owned bed & breakfast and restaurant created in a charming 17th century stone farmhouse located in the Rhône Valley countryside. The surroundings were quite serene and peaceful. The gourmet dinner was lovely and included a cheese cart like I've never seen before!
After a restful night, it was another early start, with more wet weather as we toured Tavel and Lirac. The first stop of the day was at the historic Tavel producer Château d’Aqueria. The fascinating history of Château d’Aqueria begins in 1595, when Louis Joseph d’Aqueria purchased the area of Tavel known as "Puy Sablonneux" from the monks at the Abbey in Villeneuve les Avignon. His son, Robert d'Aqueria, built a home that was transformed in the 18th century into the Château as it stands today. The estate has changed hands many times since the 18th century, all the while maintaining winegrowing activities because the terroir is very suitable for winegrowing. The estate has been in the same family for three generations now, when Jean Olivier purchased the estate 1919, and his son-in-law Paul de Bez began managing the estate in 1943, followed by his grandsons Bruno and Vincent de Bez, who today continue to run the estate.
Today, there are 60+ ha of vineyards surrounding the Château with light, sandy-clayey soils that are ideal for the production of rose's, while the limestone scree soils on their property just east of the Château in Lirac help produce white wines with outstanding fruit and depth. Château d’Aqueria practices organic fertilization and is High Environmental Value (HVE) certified, a system that promotes biodiversity and an environmentally-friendly agricultural approach involving pesticides, fertilization and water resource management. We met up with Vincent who gave us a tour of the facility, followed by a tasting of some of their latest wines. More wet weather lingered in the area, so we did not get a tour of the vineyards. However, Vincent told us we could drive to one of their nearby vineyards and it was amazingly littered with thousands (!) of rounded pebbles that allow the vines to grow in the best possible conditions thanks to the natural soil filter.
The next stop was at Domaine Coudoulis, a winery in Lirac located on a terrace overlooking the village of Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres. The family-owned and -operated estate winery was purchased by Bernard Callet in 1996 because he knew the site had fabulous soil. After 10 years of observing and learning about the site, Bernard called upon Patrick Hilaire, a man who had worked on some of the most famous vineyards, to create terroir-driven wines worthy of the Domaine. As Bernard explained, the vineyards have existed on this site since the 1960's on old terroir with its alluvial terraces that are rich in round pebbles - similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Since that time, the building was rebuilt in 2011 into a modern facility with large concrete vats for fermentation and ageing, all the while transitioning their 25 hectares of vineyards to organic winemaking. Unfortunately, they do not make any rosés - as the rosé wines from this site are too dark compared to the current trend of light coloured rosés. They also currently do not make any white wines. However, there are plans to make some white wines as they planted some Grenache Blanc in 2017. Thus, after tasting their fine selection of red wines we took a tour of their modern winemaking facility and barrel cellar. We'll have to check back in a few years to see how Domaine Coudoulis fared with their Grenache Blanc.
Lunch was in the heart of Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres at Restaurant Le Papet and we were joined by Edouard Guerin, Director of Wines and Vineyards at Ogier, and Stéphane Soulier, Sales Manager at Les Vignerons de Tavel.
The story of Ogier begins with Ogier the Dane, an eccentric man who went off to fight in Basque country around 800 A.D. and on his way back home stopped in Massif Central. His stop became permanent and the Ogier name spread throughout the Rhône Valley. Antoine Ogier is a distant descendant of Ogier the Dane and he acquired an old cooperage in 1859. The main winery is in Chateauneu-du-Pape, where an old cooperage was converted into maturation cellars and is the largest in the Rhône Valley with its walls bearing witness to a history dating back to the Middle Ages. In 1995 with the arrival of Didier Couturier, the winery undergoes renewal, establishing relationships with winegrowers, and giving rise to the Ogier style - purity of fruit, freshness, and depth. During this time, a precision approach from vine to winemaking with a minimal interventionalist approach becomes the Ogier hallmark. Edouard was personable, friendly and showed plenty of passion for wine during lunch. I hope our paths cross again someday as the wines from Ogier were lovely. The Lirac Blanc and Tavel wines, one of each, we tasted from Ogier during lunch were fresh and delicious, especially the unreleased-at-the-time Lirac Blanc that ended up being one of my favourite wines of the day.
The cooperative cellar Les Vignerons de Tavel was founded in 1937, one year after the birth of AOP Tavel, when a few winemakers from decided to unite. France's first cooperative was inaugurated by the President of France, Albert Lebrun, in 1938 and was declared to be part of France's national heritage in 2013. Just weeks after my visit to Rhône, the cooperatives Les Vignerons de Tavel merged with the Cave des Vins de Cru in Lirac to become Cave des Vignerons de Tavel and Lirac that now represents 90 vine growers, 880 hectares of vines, and 35,000 hectolitres of production within AOC Tavel and Lirac, and other southern Rhône Valley appellations.
After lunch, we navigated the narrow streets of the village of Montfaucon, on the right bank of the Rhône River in Lirac, to visit the historic Château de Montfaucon. The first inhabitants of the exceptional Montfaucon rocky hill located across Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be traced back to the pre-historic era. In the 11th century, the castle's first watchtower was built as the Rhône River was a border between the French Kingdom and the Holy Roman German Empire. After the castle was extended in the Middle Ages, the King of France gave title to the first Baron of Montfaucon to the powerful Laudun family in 1420. 100 years later, a winery is built at the bottom of the Château and wine was made here until 1936, when it was converted to a barrel cellar for ageing. Between 1936 and 1995, even though the family cultivated the vines, the grapes were sold to a cooperative.
Current owner, Rodolphe de Pins, took over the family estate in 1995, rebuilt the winery, and began producing wine. His ancestors, the de Pertuis family, acquired the castle in 1766 and Joseph Gabriel de Pertuis became the Baron de Montfaucon. Joseph's son, Eugene, had a son named Louis who would become Baron Louis de Montfaucon. As they discovered with old wine labels with the name "1829 Vin de Monsieur le Baron de Montfaucon", they found that both Eugene and Louis were amateurs in wine. Baron Louis restored the Château and left the estate upon his death in 1910 to his young niece, Madeleine, since he never married or had children. When Madeleine married, she became Comtesse de Pins. She is also Rodolphe's grandmother.
Today, Château de Montfaucon has more than 60 ha of vines, including a recent purchase of a 7 ha Cru Lirac vineyard that has a plot containing 140-year-old Clairette vines. The vineyards of Château de Montfaucon have a diversity of soils - calcareous pebbelstone on silty sandy soil, soil with clay, and sandy soil - and exposures. Rodolphe has a natural approach to winemaking with minimal intervention, allowing the fruit to express its flavours. He also likes to make wines that have elegance, finesse, and complexity, while also being enjoyable and easy to drink.
White wines make up 10% of the production at Château de Montfaucon and all of the wines we tasted in the 500 year old cellar with Rodolphe were delicious, including a lovely back-vintage 2012 Clairette and 2011 Lirac white cuvée. Unfortunately, once again due to the rain, we were not able to see any of the vineyards. Rodolphe also invited us for a quick visit to his home - the Château (i.e. the real castle) located some minutes walking distance from the Domaine that was perched atop the village of Montfaucon, but the rains and lack of time would not allow it. All in all, this was a very fine visit that I would highly recommend to anyone visiting Lirac.
Lirac is located just north of Tavel and sits across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, sharing many of the same characteristics as its famous neighbour. The area is very Mediterranean with plenty of sunshine and Mistral winds. Moreover, many of the vineyards in Lirac are laid out in terraces on hillsides among garrigue scrubland. There are three main soil types - limestone plateaus that covered with red clay and pebbles, ancient alluvial terraces made up of quartz pebbles and red clay atop a bed of sand, and sand laced with small pebbles. Due to soil diversity, many different grapes thrive here. Lirac achieved Cru status in 1947, making it the third oldest Rhône Valley Cru. At the time, it was known for producing easy drinking rose. Today, however, only 3% of the appellation's production is devoted to rosé (and 10% to white wines.)
The history of winemaking in Lirac goes back more than two thousand years. The small, nearby town of Roquemaure and its port became quite prosperous and powerful as it exported the wines of Cote du Rhône to Paris, England, and Holland. In the 16th century, the wines from Lirac gained a reputation for high quality wines that were served in the royal courts of France and abroad. In 1727, Lirac wines were the first from Rhône to be branded as C.d.R. to certify their origin, thus making Lirac Cru the original appellation. As mentioned earlier, the C.d.R. branding was applied to Tavel in 1737, and was later given to all wines from Côtes du Rhône.
The final winery visit of the day was in the heart of Tavel at Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine. The Lafond family has a rather long history of wine growing that began in 1780 with Pascal Odoyer, the governor of Tavel, was one of the first wine growers in his village and also the great-uncle of Jean-Pierre Lafond. In 1948, Valéry Taulier, the grandfather of current owner Pascal Lafond built the first private cellar of Tavel and contributed greatly to the growth of the Tavel appellation. In 1970, Jean-Pierre Lafond, Valéry Taulier’s son-in-law and a lover of race horses names his wine estate "Roc-Epine" in memory of the famous race horse, and Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine was born. In 1978, Pascal and his father Jean-Pierre Lafond begin bottling their own wines. Fast forward to 2009, they begin organic certification and eliminate the use of pesticides, herbicides and other chemical products, while only using copper and sulphite to protect the vineyards from the disease. In 2012, they received their organic certification and an emphasis to produce wine in the vineyard was strengthened. In 2015, the next generation of the Lafond family begins work at the winery with the arrival of Jean-Baptiste Lafond, Pascal's son, after he completed his BTS Viticulture-Oenology studies in Beaune. In addition to Tavel wines, they also produce Lirac appellation wines. In total, 3 hectares of vines are devoted white grape varieties, while 23 hectares are planted with red varietals, with soils consisting of mainly white rocks, sandy soil, and pebbles (alluvial soil). In terms of whites and rosé wines, they had a Lirac Blanc and two Tavel Rosés, and all three were delicious.
A fine day of wine tasting in Lirac and Tavel concluded at Entre Vigne & Garrigue, where Frédéric Grasset of Château de Ségriès joined us for dinner and to present his wines. Frédéric is the son-in-law of owner Henri de Lanzac. In 1994, Henri purchased the domain that included a partly ruined mansion from the 17th century that belonged to the noble Regis de Gatimel family since 1804. This makes Château de Ségriès one of the oldest estates in Lirac. Three generations of the family work at the Château, including the 75-year-old Henri. His son, Laurent, is the viticulturist and winemaker, while his daughter Anna, wife of Frédéric, also works at the winery. Together, they manage 58 ha of old vines averaging 80 years of age on mainly clay-limestone soils. Only a small portion of this acreage is devoted to AOP Lirac white wines, while 11 ha in a single vineyard in Tavel. Château de Ségriès only makes one Lirac Blanc and one Tavel wine, so it was nice to try the two most recent vintages of each wine during dinner.
Looking back on this day, Tavel was everything I expected it to be - traditionally deeply coloured, fruity and dry, high quality rose wines, with some having slightly tannic and structured characters that some might even call light red wines, while others were made in the more trendier Provençal style that is pale coloured and fresh. Tavel can be enjoyed on its own or paired with salad, poultry, or hearty fish.
Lirac, on the other hand, was an eye-opener for me. It is one of the least known Crus, and even I didn't know much about it before arriving. Lirac appellation white wines are made primarily with varietals such as Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, and Bourboulenc, and sometimes includes Marsanne, Viognier, or Picpoul. The white wines were fresh and clean, with some minerality and structure, and could be aged for a number of years. All-in-all, I was very impressed with the white wines from Lirac.
Overall, I was very happy with my visit to the Southern Rhône Valley. I learned many new things over the four days while also meeting some fine individuals who are shaping the future of the wines from Luberon, Ventoux, Cairanne, Costières de Nîmes, Tavel, and Lirac.
Tasting Notes:
VIGNOBLES & COMPAGNIE DOMAINE MÉJAN LES MUSES TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD)
Blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 5% Mourvedre, 3% Syrah, and 2% Clairette from sandy soil, clay, and rolled pebbles, alluvial deposits. Medium+ intensity nose offers red fruit, red cherry, strawberry, and herbal aromas. The medium+ bodied palate is spicy with fresh acids and pleasing red berried aroma replays. Lightly tannic, dry, with some structure, and very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
VIGNOBLES & COMPAGNIE RÉSERVE DES CHASTELLES TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
Grenache and Syrah blend from gravel, clay and quartz pebbles soils. Medium-high intensity nose with plenty of red fruits - currant, strawberry, cherry and some red pepper nuances. It is full-bodied, dry and structured on the palate with candied red berry flavours. There's some tannic structure and the finish length is very good. Score: 89 pts
Agent: N/A
CHÂTEAU TRINQUEVEDEL TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#729947) (XD) - 12.5 €
Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Mourvèdre, this has fruity medium+ intensity aromas of rhubarb and strawberry. It is medium-full bodied, dry and spicy on the palate with fresh acids and nice aroma replays joined by hints of orange. Structured with some tannins. Very good finish length. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU TRINQUEVEDEL LES VIGNES D'EUGÈNE TAVEL 2014 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 15 €
Blend of Grenache, Clairette and Syrah from 80-85 year old vines and one-third oak aged, this has a subtle orange, red berry and spice nose with touches of floral. It is medium-full bodied and nicely integrated on the palate with balanced acids, and pretty rose floral and cherry characters. Somewhat structured and the finish length is very good. Holding up quite well at this age. Score: 89+ pts
CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
40% Grenache Blanc, 25% Bourboulenc, 16% Clairette, 12% Roussanne, and 7% Viognier from limestone scree soils. Open, fragrant and fresh with herbally, lemony, and anise aromas. Medium-bodied with a slightly oily texture. Nice aroma replays on the palate plus notable anise, fennel, and pear notes. There's some structure a nice chalky mineral mid-palate. Shows finesse on the finish, with excellent length. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA TAVEL 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (#319368) (XD) - $23.95
45% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 4% Bourboulenc, and 2% Picpoul from sandy clayey hillsides. The subtle nose is fruity and a touch candied, offering red berry, cherry, currant, and citrus aromas. It's medium-full bodied with nicely balanced citrusy aroma replays. Acids are very good. The long finish is crisp and spicy with a fine mineral note. Score: 89 pts
DOMAINE COUDOULIS EVIDENCE LIRAC 2016 - AP, Rhône, France (XD) - 9 €
Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre (15%), Carignan, and Cinsault. Medium-high intensity nose is meaty with floral, dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, and black spice aromas. The spicy medium+ bodied palate has nice dark cherry/berry and oak spice notes. Well-structured with refined tannins. Nicely balanced overall with good acidity. Finish length is very good. Score: 89 pts
OGIER LOU CAMINÉ LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD)
First vintage of this wine. Blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc from 5 to 80 year-old vines that was barrel-fermented and barrel-aged. It has medium-high intensity aromas that are clean and elegant with mineral, lemon/lime, herbs and anise notes, all of which come through on the medium+ bodied palate with hints of saline minerality. Acids are fresh and the finish length is excellent. Score: 90 pts
OGIER ETAMINES TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD)
Pretty, medium-high intensity nose of strawberry, spice, currant, and cherry aromas. It is medium-full bodied with spicy aroma replays on the palate, fresh acids, and very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
DOMAINE DU VIEIL AVEN TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - $18.70
Medium+ intensity nose is spicy with red currant, cherry, and strawberry aromas. The palate is full-ish with gentle tannins and juicy acids that support the nicely dry aroma replays. Very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
DOMAINE DES CARTERESSES TAVEL ROSÉ 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#739474) (XD) - $18.95
The medium-high intensity nose is fresh has ripe aromas of strawberry, cherry, and rhubarb. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with a rounded mouthfeel. Touch candied cherry flavour, plus aroma replays on the flavour profile. Juicy acids, smooth tannins, and very good length on the finish. Score: 88 pts
CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON COMTESSE MADELEINE LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 13.5 €
Just bottled. Blend of Marsanne (40%), Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, and Viognier. Medium-high intensity aromas are fresh and ripe with white and yellow florals, and key lime pie. On the medium-bodied palate, it has nice, ripe aroma replays supported by bright and lively acids. Anise, herbs, and lime notes linger on the long finish. Barrel-fermented and aged, yet oak is very subtle. Should drink well for at least half a dozen years. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON VIN DE MADAME LA COMTESSE LIRAC BLANC 2012 - AP, Rhône, France (XD)
Limited production. 100% Clairette barrel-fermented from a small 1.3 acre vineyard first planted in 1870 - one of the oldest in Rhône Valley. Complex, medium-high intensity nose is exotic and a touch oxidative with nutty, pear and fennel aromas. Spicy palate is still showing freshness with very nice aroma replays and some mineral notes adding complexity. Shows finesse on the long, intense finish. 2012 was the first vintage of this wine. Score: 91 pts
DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-ÉPINE LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (XD) - 10 €
This blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, and 20% Viognier that has medium+ intensity aromas of fennel, anise, lemony citrus, and herbs. Acids are fresh and bright on the medium-bodied palate with nice aroma replays on the flavour profile. Clean and crisp with hints of mineral on the long finish. Score: 88+ pts
DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-ÉPINE TAVEL 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (#950709) (XD) - 10 €
60% Grenache with equal parts Syrah and Cinsault. Medium-high intensity nose is pretty with freshly picked, ripe strawberry, rhubarb, and cherry aromas. The medium+ bodied palate is fleshy, a touch candied, but dry, with nice aroma replays. It has juicy acids, a spicy mid-palate, and very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
CHÂTEAU SÉGRIÈS LIRAC BLANC 2015 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
A blend of 50% Clairette, 30% Ugni Blanc, 10% Roussanne, 5% Bourboulenc, and 5% Picpoul that is 30% barrel-fermented. Subtle herbs, fennel, and lemon aromas. It is medium-full bodied and creamy with nice pear and herbals flavours. Crunchy fruit with fresh acidity. Finish length is very good. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU SÉGRIÈS TAVEL 2016 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
Blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Clairette. Medium+ intensity nose offers cherry, strawberry, and currant aromas, with much of the same on the spicy, full-bodied palate. It has some tannic structure, while acids and finish length are both very good. Score: 89 pts
Tuesday, September 3, 2024
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