Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo 2017 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2018 Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco back in November, tonight's red wine review is a lovely Barolo that landed at the LCBO a couple of weekends ago as part of the January 7 VINTAGES Release.

Even though Michele Chiarlo was only established in the 1950s, its story begins in 1898 with the birth of Pietro Chiarlo who was born into a farming family in Bubbio. Pietro worked as a farmhand and then at the winery in Canelli during his adolescent years, and in the 1930s, after working for a period in Abyssinia, he returned to Calamandrana determined to invest in the estate and production of wine. Peitro, along with his brother Felice, tilled the lands, breaking the soil by hand to replant the vineyards, and had a sense that wine was the future of the Piedmont hills.

Michele Chiarlo, Pietro's first son, was born in 1935, and he attended a winemaking school in Alba and his classmates were the future protagonists of Italian winemaking: Renato Ratti, Ezio Rivella, Franco Ziliani, Giuliano Noè, and Giacomo Tachis. In 1956, Michele Chiarlo started his adventure as a producer of wine and understood that quality wine in the Piedmont hills began with the choice of vineyards in the most suitable areas. The first cru of Barolo bottled under his name dates back to 1958.

Through the 1960s, Michele expanded the market boundaries for wine, and was among the first producers in Piedmont to believe in the success of Italian wines abroad. He consolidated his success by building a larger, more functional winery in Calamandrana, and began purchasing select vineyards in important positions in Langhe, Monferrato, and the area of Gavi. As a founding member across a number of organizations, including Istituto Grandi Marchi and Accademia del Barolo, the family wine business of Michele Chiarlo is now run by Michele and his two sons Stefano and Alberto Chiarlo. Together, they have an international outlook with great attention to the details at home, including the maniacal care of the vineyards, vinification while respecting the terroirs and vines, and artisanship of the processes. Situated in Calamandrana, Michele Chiarlo is one of the most important oenological realities in Piedmont.

This Barolo is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo grown on calcareous marl clay soils of sedimentary marine origin from the Tortonian period of 9 million years ago. The soil is also composed of 12% active limestone and a basic pH, with a significant presence of micro-elements, specifically magnesium and manganese. The vineyards have southeast and southwest exposure to the sun. After manually harvesting the grapes, it was vinified in steel tanks and underwent 17 to 18 days of skin maceration, with a soft "shower" system of wetting the cap at a temperature between 32°C and 27°C. It was aged for a minimum of 3 years, with the first 24 months spent in average-sized oak casks, followed by refinement in bottle.

According to winemaker Stefano Chiarlo, the 2017 was characterized by a long summer with very little rainfall. In the vineyard, they adopted agronomic practices that allowed them to keep the soil moist and preserve the freshness of the grapes. Some of these practices include doing extraordinary work on the soil to oxygenate the roots, not eliminating excess leaves to prevent sunlight from directly hitting the bunches and avoiding sunburn, while also delaying leaf thinning operations in order not to risk damaging the fruit. To maintain elegance, freshness, and avoid excessive alcohol content, harvest was brought forward by about ten days compared to normal. Chiarlo thinks that 2017 can be compared to vintages such as 2007 or 2011 in terms of climate and organoleptic characteristics. Let's see how this 2017 Barolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MICHELE CHIARLO TORTONIANO BAROLO 2017 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#586388) (XD) - $44.95
100% Nebbiolo. Intensely fragrant with lovely, complex aromas of new leather, earth, red cherry-berry, fine wood spices, juniper berry, and cedar, with touches of rose floral, orange, and barnyard. On the medium-full to full-bodied, structured, slightly creamy palate it is quite approachable right now with red cherry, wild berry, forest floor, wet earth, and savoury wood spice flavours with a touch of orange. Acids are juicy and well-balanced. The structured tannins have some chalky grip, but are accessible now. Forest floor, cherry, and wild berry notes linger on the very long, savoury finish. Enjoyable now and should drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Many other lovely wines by Michele Chiarlo are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Univins & Spiritueux.