d'Arenberg The Stump Jump Grenache / Shiraz / Mourvèdre 2019 (McLaren Vale) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious GSM blend from McLaren Vale in Australia that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent August 19th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by d'Arenberg, a well-known and highly regarded winery situated in McLaren Vale, South Australia. It was established in 1912 by Joseph Osborn when he planted his first eight acres of Shiraz vines on the property. The same year, Joseph was joined by his third child, Frank Osborn, who left university to take up life on the land. Joseph also sold his stable of prize winning horses to purchase the d'Arenberg property, which was originally named Bundarra.

In 1913, Frank Osborn harvested his first vintage at the Bundarra property in McLaren Vale, with grape prices reaching an unheard of price of £20 per tonne. After several years serving in the army, Frank married Helena d'Arenberg in 1920. A year later, Jane Antoinette (Toni) Osborn was born, followed by the birth of Rowen Frederick Osborn in 1924. In 1926, Helena Osborn died after giving birth to their third child, Francis d'Arenberg Osborn, who was also always known as d'Arry.

After encouragement from Sam Tolley, Frank's brother-in-law and wine industry mentor, in 1927 Frank decided to build a winery and produce his own wine. Frank spent some time learning about winemaking, while Sam was largely responsible for building the winery. In 1928, Frank Osborn produced his first wines, which were labelled "Bundarra Vineyards by F. E. Osborn & Sons". Production ceased in 1942 due to Frank's health, but resumed when d'Arry Osborn left school at the age of 16 to join the family business in 1943 and work at the winery full-time.

Modernization began during this period when the first tractor with rubber tires was purchased in 1946, followed by electricity and the electrification of the production area in 1951. In 1959, d'Arry Osborn launched his own wine label with a distinctive red stripe, while also designing the family crest that has the Latin words "Vinum vita est", which translates to "Wine is Life", and the fertility symbol in the top right corner of the crest, and grapes in the opposite corner.

On a day that was hailed as a good start to the financial year, Chester d'Arenberg Osborn was born on July 1, 1962. In 1963, they purchased their first hydraulic basket press and a year later they built their first tasting room. To this day, traditional winemaking methods are still used, with all of the wines basket pressed and all the red wine ferments foot trodden. In 1965, d'Arry received a letter from another well-established winery who had applied for trademark protection for the name "Bundarra", and by mutual agreement, d'Arry agreed to let the name go and stop using the Bundarra name.

The name change didn't hinder progress or success, as d'Arenberg had to build another tasting room to accommodate the ever increasing number of visitors. In 1971, they installed their own bottling line. Starting in the late 1960s, d'Arenberg was awarded many trophies and awards for their wines.

d'Arenberg's success continued when Chester Osborn, the fourth generation of the family, took over as Chief Winemaker, focusing his efforts on producing high quality and distinctive wines, while also reducing yields in the vineyards by eliminating fertilization and minimizing irrigation. d'Arenberg is also focused on natural and environmentally-friendly philosophies which encourage strong root systems that penetrate the soil, which in turn results in lively tannin structures, soil characters, and fine minerality. Moreover, all d'Arenberg estate owned and leased vineyards are NASAA Certified for organic and biodynamic processes. d'Arenberg is also a founding member of Australia's First Families of Wine.

This particular red wine is from d'Arenberg's "The Stump Jump" range of wines. The name comes from a rumour that the inventor of the Stump Jump plough, which enabled a ploughshare to jump over tree roots, had poor eyesight and required regular eye tests to ensure he could still operate machinery safely. The label design of The Stump Jump range is inspired by an optometrist's eye chart and serves as a
makeshift sobriety test - if you can hold the bottle at arm's length and still read the front label, you can enjoy another glass. There are half a dozen wines in the range, and this particular wine is a blend is approximately equal parts Grenache and Shiraz, with Mourvèdre completing the blend. The grapes used to craft this blend were mostly from very old bush vines that underwent gentle crushing and were fermented in traditional, open tank fermenters, followed by basket pressing and maturation in oak prior to bottling.

During the 2019 growing season, winter was quite dry with sporadic light showers that didn't penetrate the soil very deeply. Although bud burst was impacted, it was managed with irrigation. During spring, a strong wind event at the time of flowering upset some of the growth, especially in Shiraz, while summer was hot with an extreme heat wave and a record high temperature of 46.6°C. Yields were down on most varieties. However, the quality was excellent, with the grapes exhibiting very typical varietal characteristics. From what is classified as a good vintage, let's see how this 2019 McLaren Vale GSM is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

D'ARENBERG THE STUMP JUMP GRENACHE / SHIRAZ / MOURVÈDRE 2019 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#173294) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this GSM blend has a fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers lovely black pepper, spice, raspberry and blackberry aromas layered over earthy and meaty notes. It's full-ish bodied, dry, and sweetly fruited with ripe dark red berry, blackberry, black raspberry, black pepper, oak spice, earth, and meaty flavours which are supported by fresh, well-balanced acidity and smooth, firm, and somewhat grippy tannins that are youthful. Some minty herbal notes on the mid-palate. Savoury with cedary wood spice and earth notes linger on the finish, with very good length. A solid, highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next few years. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by d'Arenberg can be found at the LCBO (with some in very limited quantities), while the whole portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.