El Esteco 1946 Old Vines Malbec 2021 (Argentina) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2019 El Esteco 1946 Old Vines Malbec nearly two years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific, organic Malbec that was featured in the most LCBO VINTAGES Release on February 4th as part of the theme on wines from the Southern Hemisphere.

It is produced by El Esteco, a winery founded in 1892 and situated in the Calchaquí Valleys in northwestern Argentina, a natural landscape carved by the sun, mountains, and vineyards. As one of the first institutions in Argentina to master the art of viticulture and winemaking, they have a significant presence in famous Cafayate, as well as the little-known and unique sub-region of Chañar Punco. Cafayate is the heart of Calchaquí Valleys, a region that was seemingly unsuitable for grape-growing, but is an isolated stretch of desert with unique features that make it ideal to grow the highest vineyards in the world. In addition to plenty of sunshine and a high diurnal temperature range between night and day, it is the desert climate with its poor soils that makes this small region of Cafayate unique. The resulting wines are distinctive and elegant with great concentration of colour, deep aromas, and well-defined flavours.

Today, El Esteco has nearly 1,000 acres of vineyards at an ideal altitude of more than 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level. Furthermore, with abundant sunshine and perfect diurnal temperature range, this environment is perfect for the creation of high-end wines such as this Old Vines Malbec. The spirit of the region is encapsulated in their fruit and the fusion between the legacy of ancient civilizations, Hispanic influence, criollo spirit, and it's vallisto Spanish colonial-style building which is surrounded by ancient vineyards. The hundred-year-old building contrasts with the latest wine production technologies found inside the winery such as concrete containers, stainless steel tanks, and the poetic French and American oak barrels, all of which help create wines of diverse styles, flavours, and aromas.

This 100% Malbec comes from a vineyard planted in 1946 at their Finca Las Mercedes estate in the Cafayate Valley in northwest Argentina. This estate is home to 370 pergola-trained Malbec vines that are more than 65 years old and in perfect harmony with the terroir of Cafayate as they were raised with minimal human intervention to yield exceptional wines. The grapes were manually harvested at optimum ripeness in the early hours of the morning. After being sorted at the winery, the grapes were placed into a single cement egg and fermented using native yeasts, then aged on its lees for 11 months and bottled unfiltered.

Northern Argentina experienced slightly cooler growing conditions during the 2021 season, with the Calchaquis Valleys experiencing a more typical vintage. Spring was quite normal with very little rainfall and good budbreak. December was dry, while January had lower than normal rainfall. In February, there were twice the normal rainfall, but it only amounted to 80 mm, so it was not an issue. However, this did mean that there were more cloudier days, which slowed maturation and led to greater concentration and colour. Let's see how this 2021 old vine Malbec from the Calchaquis Valleys is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ESTECO 1946 OLD VINES MALBEC 2021 - Valles Calchaquíes, Argentina (#19391) (XD) - $25.95
100% organic and unoaked Malbec. After some initial reductive notes blow off, this reveals fresh, distinctive earthy and stony mineral aromas joined by ripe blackberry, white pepper, dried spices, and plum. It's medium to medium-full bodied with good concentration on the dry palate with savoury stony minerals, earthy, and dried spice flavours, plus dark berry, blackberry, and plum notes adding fruity notes. It has fresh, racy acidity and lightly grippy, chalky, grainy textured, and youthful tannins. Nicely balanced throughout with savoury mineral and lightly tangy dark berry notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Enjoyable now, but will benefit with 1-2 years in the cellar, and drink well to the end of the decade. A distinctive Malbec and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Only one other wine by El Esteco is available at the LCBO, while others from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Dandurand.