Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the October 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2013 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico that I enjoyed over six years ago, this red wine is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned winery with deep roots in Tuscany. It was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence and embarked on a career path that took him through his family's business that specialized in clothing manufacturing to become an iconic fashion company in Italy. Marco also had a real estate company and acquired several properties, one of which was Castello di Bossi in 1984.

Oenology was a pleasant hobby for Marco, and in 1985 he bottled his first wine. For many years, Marco balanced his commitment to the fashion world with his passion for wine. In 1996, Marco decided to leave the fashion world and dedicate his heart and soul to the wine industry by focusing on the vine and wine. Over the next few years, he acquired estates in Brunello di Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano to complete the coverage of the three main Tuscan DOCGs.

Jacopo Bacci, son of Marco, was born in Florence in 1984, and after obtaining his diploma in scientific studies, he enrolled in the University of Enology in Florence. By 2004, while still studying oenology, Jacobo joined and expanded the family business by taking responsibility for the Italian, English, and German markets. He continued to expand the family's wine brand presence in North American and Asian markets.

Today, the mission of Bacci Wines is to offer their customers the opportunity to enjoy some of the world's best wines at any time and wherever they may be. Bacci Wines is made up of five estates across Tuscany's best territories covering more than 900 hectares of vineyards, while producing various styles of wines across a wide range of labels. The group of wineries are organic and powered by clean energy. The vision is to produce high-quality, organic wines across their entire portfolio. Bacci Wines firmly believes that by choosing an organic approach, they are able to safeguard the beauty and integrity of their land, while also ensuring extraordinary quality standards and an unparalleled tasting experience.

With several estates owned by Bacci Wines, this particular red wine is from their Tenuta di Renieri Estate, which is located in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southeast of the Chianti Classico territory. This property borders the lands of Castello di Bossi, one of Bacci's other estates, and covers approximately 60 hectares of land, of which 22 hectares are planted to vineyards. Specializing in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, the Renieri estate's vineyards are situated 300 metres above sea-level and south-facing. The soil composition at Renieri varies from yellow clays to tuff, and is supported by a rounded stone skeleton that provides natural drainage.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was somewhat difficult due to the pandemic and a spring frost which reduced yields. However, the long, hot summer with good diurnal temperature variation and important rainfall in June and September led to an early harvest that resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled red wines. The pandemic also allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $22.95
Aged in wooden casks, this organic Sangiovese has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is savoury and slightly reductive, which blows off and reveals a lovely, attractive mix of ripe red & black cherries, rose floral, savoury earth, and sweet spice aromas, plus whiffs crushed stone and blackberry adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has sour dark red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, savoury earth, and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, tangy acidity, while the smooth, supportive, and elegant tannins have good structure and a touch of grip on the back palate. Shows nice balance with savoury earth, mineral, and touches of oak spice lingering on the long, persistent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci Wines estates are available not only at the LCBO, but can also be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Terra Tangra Black Label Rubin 2019 (Bulgaria) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic red made with the relatively unknown Rubin varietal from Bulgaria. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 21st.

It is produced by Terra Tangra, a winery that was established in 1999 in Bulgaria, one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Terra Tangra is situated on the southwestern slopes of the Sakar Mountain, along the Maritsa River in the Thracian Plain, in southeastern Bulgaria.

Terra Tangra specializes in the production of selected red, white, and rosé wines of different and mostly international varieties, and across several ranges of boutique wines. All the wines are crafted using grapes from their own vineyards, which span across 350 hectares of land. The growing conditions to produce high-quality grapes are more than excellent, with the climatic conditions consisting of many sunny days throughout the year, constant wind, and sparse rainfall. Combining these conditions with the southern exposure of vineyards leads to high diurnal temperatures. The soil in these vineyards is shallow, with decomposed granite lying underneath. The terroir in the region has led experts to believe that the South Sakar region will become the most successful in Bulgaria.

Today, Terra Tangra's 350 hectares of vineyards are constantly under strict supervision by a team of oenologists and agronomists who determine the exact date to start harvest. All the grapes are harvested by hand into cassettes. To vinify their wines, Terra Tangra uses classic techniques with great attention to detail in order to preserve and extract the natural phenolic substances from the grapes, which in turn leads to memorable wines of character.

From their Black Label range, this red wine is crafted using 100% Rubin Bolgarskii (aka Rubin), a dark-skinned crossing of two renowned grape varieties - Nebbiolo and Syrah. Rubin is a hybrid grape variety that was created in the middle of the 20th century as part of efforts to develop new varieties suitable for Bulgaria's climate and terroir. Today, Rubin is grown across the Central European nations of Moldova, Romania, and Slovenia. However, it is in the village of Branitsa in southeastern Bulgaria where Rubin flourishes and expresses itself best. Rubin is a relatively early ripening variety that achieves good must weight, which ensures good alcohol levels to balance its ample tannins. The peppery and violet characteristics that Rubin displays can be attributed to Syrah. The grapes for this Rubin were grown on Terra Tangra's southwestern slopes of their Sakar Mountain Vineyard. After hand-harvesting the Rubin grapes, it underwent alcoholic fermentation, followed by ageing in barrel to further soften the tannins.

Tasting Note:

TERRA TANGRA BLACK LABEL RUBIN 2019 - Sakar Mountain Vineyard, PGI Thracian Valley, Bulgaria (#37744) (XD) - $21.95
100% Rubin and certified organic. The fresh and fragrant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers lovely, ripe dark fruited, blackberry, black pepper, black plum, and gentle cedary oak aromas accented with cassis and savoury earth notes. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate the black plum flavours are layered over dark fruited blackberry, cassis, savoury earth, and gentle oak spice notes. It's all framed by fresh acidity and grippy, youthful, and well-structured tannins. The juicy mid-palate leads to a long, savoury, and stony mineral finish. A fine introduction to Rubin and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Terra Tangra can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Tezza Valpolicella Ripasso Valpantena Superiore 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore from the Valpantena Valley in Veneto that arrived at the LCBO today in the August 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Azienda Agricola Tezza, a winery that was established by the Tezza family in 1960. Since the beginning, the family has been immersed in the winemaking traditions of the Valpantena and Valpolicella areas. The Tezza family has been producing wines in the region for three generations, and since 1988 it has been run by three cousins - Flavio, Vanio, and Federico.

Today, the short production chain at Tezza allows the family to apply their fundamental principles, which ensures authenticity, transparency, and excellence, with each and every step of the winemaking process traceable. Each step of the wine production cycle is carried out at the winery, from vine planting in the family vineyards to tending the vines and grapes, harvesting, vinification, and bottling. They have over 28 hectares of vineyards in Valpantena, spanning the townlands of Poiano, Nesente and Sezano, and adhere to the strictest organic farming protocols. As Tezza wines are exported and enjoyed around the world, they express the dedication, care, and energy displayed by the three cousins in their role as winemakers from lands steeped in winemaking history.

To craft their Valpolicella wines, the grapes are dried out (to reduce the amount of water and increase the sugar content) in their new drying hall that boasts modern technology which ensures that every aspect of the drying process, including temperature and humidity, is controlled and the results assured. After vinification, the wines are aged in the barrel hall, the heart of the winery, while the "old cellar" is the inner sanctum of the winery and contains Tezza's most precious wines from the best years.

As guardians of the land and biodiversity in the Valpantena Valley, the Tezza family had been practicing organic and sustainable farming for over 20 years prior to obtaining official organic certification in 2020. With the whole production chain compliant with the stringent protocols laid down by EU Organic and USA NOP, Tezza wines was also awarded Equalitas sustainability certification in 2023.

This red wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella that was grown in the Valpantena viticultural subzone, in central Valpolicella, of the Valpolicella DOC. The soil in these vineyards is calcareous with high organic substances, while also being rich in potassium, calcium, and magnesium. The vines were trained using Guyot and Sloped Pergola Veronese training techniques. After harvest in September and October, the grapes were destemmed and crushed. It was fermented using selected yeasts with maceration in temperature-controlled steel vats, with daily racking and délestage (returning), followed by refermentation on Amarone marc, and then aged for 24 months prior to bottling.

The 2020 growing season was a warmer vintage that produced bright fruit and acidity, along with excellent concentration and elegant tannins. From a very good to excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Valpolicella Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TEZZA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO VALPANTENA SUPERIORE 2020 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#25823) (D) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella. The elegant, medium-high intensity nose has lovely aromas of macerated black & red cherry, blackberry compote, red plum, and sweet wood spices with touches of floral, vanilla, and dried herbs. The medium to medium-full bodied palate is sweet fruited, yet dry, and offers cran-cherry and cassis flavours layered over sandalwood, spice, currant, earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the tannins are well-structured and somewhat youthful. Cran-cherry and cassis notes give way to savoury earth and smoky oak on the long lasting finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 6-8 years. Score: 90+ pts

Limited quantities of Tezza's Amarone is available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Tenute Pieralisi Villaia Classico Superiore Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2021 (Marche) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely organic and vegan Verdicchio white wine from Marche. It is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving on shelves across Ontario and online, and featured as a Refreshing White in the upcoming July 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tenute Pieralisi, an estate winery that was established along with Monte Schiavo winery in 1976 by one of the most famous families of entrepreneurs and winemakers in the Marche region. The estate is situated at Scorcelletti within the commune of Maiolati Spontini, in the province of Ancona, which is the heart of the classic production area of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.

With innovation in their DNA, the Pieralisi family's attachment to the land and region has guided the family's path since 1888, when Adeodato Pieralisi founded the first workshop for the maintenance of agricultural machinery. Today, Tenute Pieralisi boasts wine production excellence thanks to land that is particularly suited for viticulture and cutting-edge processes, while under the guidance of first-class oenologists and master winemakers who aim to guarantee taste and high-quality.

At Tenute Pieralisi, the key to quality products is genuineness. As such, they are forever guided by their deep respect for the land and its natural processes, with authenticity at the origin the key to quality products. Tenute Pieralisi is certified as Organic Farming, while also fully complying with the rules for the production of Vegan wines. All the wines come from the large, 20 hectare Colle del Sole vineyard which surrounds the winery. The short distance between the vineyard and the winery significantly reduces the time from harvest to pressing, thus allowing only the best of nature in the winemaking process and preventing the alteration of natural aromas and flavours. The alluvial soil in the vineyard is rich in fine gravel, with a high content of clay and limestone, and a fair amount of organic matter. The microclimate is a product of the influence of the sea to the east, the sun, the breezes, the rainfall, and the protection of the Apennine mountains.

Named "Villaia", this white wine's name has its origins from the rural tradition of the Marche region, where the threshing-floor outside rural houses was not just where the grain was threshed, but also the centre of the family's social activity. As Verdicchio wine was always present in the convivial moments of country life in Marche, Tenute Pieralisi would like to re-evoke these traditional country rites with Villaia's natural typicality.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Verdicchio that was grown in the Colle del Sole vineyard, which is located in the municipality of Maiolati Spontini in central Marche. The vines were cultivated on the eastern part of the hill on 4 hectares of soft, hilly terrain, at an average altitude of 120 metres
above sea level. The vines were trained using the Guyot system on soil that is rich in clay and silt. After hand-harvesting and selecting the grapes at the end of September, it underwent a spontaneous alcoholic fermentation for approximately 50 days in a stainless steel vat, at relatively cool temperatures. The wine was then aged on its fine lees for about 6 months prior to bottling.

The 2021 growing season in Marche began with a spring that was characterized by very little rainfall and low temperatures, with a few frosts. The summer was warm and dry, with continuous high temperatures. Rain arrived at the end of August, which also brought significant diurnal temperature shifts. Overall, the vintage delivered great quality, albeit with slightly reduced yields. Let's see how this 2021 Verdicchio from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTE PIERALISI VILLAIA CLASSICO SUPERIORE VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI 2021 - Vegan, DOC, Marche, Italy (#36551) (XD) - $24.95
This organic and vegan white wine has elegant, medium-high to high intensity aromatics of ripe orchard fruit (apple, pear), grapefruit citrus, wild herb, and lemon aromas with underlying leesy minerals wafting out of the glass with impressive depth. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has lovely ripe orchard fruit, grapefruit, wild herb, and citrusy replays, plus pithy, honeysuckle, and saline flavours adding complexity. It has crisp, lively acidity, along with some spice touches and a very finely textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Savoury, leesy, and saline mineral notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Tenute Pieralisi can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Born Rambla Rosé 2023 (Spain) - Wine Review

Today is National Rosé Day, and for tonight's rosé wine review I opened a lovely, organic, dry rosé from the Penedès region in Spain. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed in stores across Ontario today as part of the theme on rosé wines in the June 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Born Rosé, a trendy wine brand that was established by a group of women in Barcelona who are passionate about rosé wines. Together, they have poured their energy, expertise, and savings into producing fine, Mediterranean rosé.

The leader of this group is Jana Robles, a Barcelona-based entrepreneur who loves rosé wine. She merged her passion for rosé wine with international business, which included years of experience living in the U.S.A., China, and the Netherlands. With a thirst for constant learning, Jana's global vision redefines her role as CEO and founder of Born Rosé on a daily basis.

As the rosé of Barcelona, each of their wines, all of which are rosé, are 100% organic, dry, light, pale, and with low alcohol levels. Born Rosé makes several rosé wines, including sparkling rosé, and rosé in convenient cans. The brand is noted for its stylish, minimalist, and modern packaging.

A relatively new winery with medals in tow, Born Rosé asserts that the best rosé is produced in the Mediterranean region, which connects Provence, Languedoc, and Barcelona. The Greeks planted their first vineyards 2,600 years ago and spread their culture of wine to the Mediterranean region - regions which share the same climate, land, and the Grenache grape variety, with Born Rosé contributing their know-how and passion. Let's see how this dry rosé from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BORN RAMBLA ROSÉ 2023 - Penedès, Spain (#37863) (XD) - $15.95
Certified organic, this pretty pale salmon pink coloured dry rosé is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Tempranillo. Fresh, elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity aromas of peach, strawberry, and red cherry with hints of mineral, dried herb, and spice. On the dry, concentrated, medium-full bodied palate it has delicious citrus, grapefruit, peach, strawberry, and cherry flavours, with a touch of honeyed notes supported by very good, juicy acidity. Fine texture with subtle spice notes on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced throughout with grapefruit, citrus, and spice notes tapering to mineral on the juicy finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over the summer! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Born Rosé can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Gorghi Tondi Coste a Preola Grillo 2022 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic Grillo from Sicily that arrived at the LCBO on the weekend in the May 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It is also featured in the theme of the release: The Wine Pantheon - Classic Euro Regions, and is widely available across Ontario today.

It is produced by Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, a family-owned estate winery located in the extreme western part of Sicily. The story of Gorghi Tondi begins with Dora, the great-grandmother of sisters Annamaria and Clara Sala, who had a love for nature, grapes, and for the land that, even a century later, continues to move the current generation of the family. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi was established in 2000 by Michele, who worked in the wine business for over forty years, and together his wife Doretta decided to start a family-owned company with their two daughters - Annamaria and Clara. The two sisters returned home from their careers and were surrounded by the family vineyards and wines, while facing a new challenge to build a future and bringing back the old dream of making premium wines in Sicily.

Situated within a nature reserve on the western part of the island of Sicily, the Sala family have been growing grapes in the area for four generations. In defence of a unique viticultural and environmental heritage, Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is led by Annamaria and Clara Sala, a family that safeguards the heritage today just as it did a century ago, while in perfect balance with its surrounding environment.

The Sala family has a strong bond with their territory, especially the High, Medium, and Low "whirlpools" (the so-called "Gorghi") that are at the heart of an oasis, which is also the inspiration for the name of the winery - Gorghi Tondi, or Round Whirlpools. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is within a naturalistic oasis that has been protected by the WWF since 1998 because it contains a treasure of volatile and aquatic species, and rare flora. They have two properties - Ramisella and San Nicola, both within the Mazara del Vallo countryside, covering over 130 hectares of vines which overlook the horizon and are cradled by the sea breeze. The vineyards are located on mostly flat land of medium-textured soil, tending to limestone, and are characterized by excellent depth and permeability, and are close to the four small lakes of the Lakes Preola and Gorghi Tondi Nature Reserve, inside a karst depression formed due to the rains that eroded the surrounding area over time.

Organic viticulture and sustainability are core values at Tenuta Gorghi Tondi. All grapes are grown organically and certified, without the use of any synthetic chemicals, and emergency irrigation is practiced only if absolutely necessary to maintain the authentic aromas and flavours of the grapes. Gorghi Tondi actively protects flora and fauna, practices low impact on the environment, eco-sustainability, and maximum control and care for all operations in the vineyard and in the cellar. At the estate, Gorghi Tondi uses clean energy to allow for sustainable development and protect the ecosystem.

This white wine is from Gorghi Tondi's Territoriali Collection - a group of single varietal wines from their youngest vineyards. Crafted with 100% Grillo, the name of this wine is "Coste a Preola", which pays tribute to Sicily and its biodiversity, and is also the name of the vineyards' area where this Grillo was organically grown. Situated near the estate, the vineyard is also close to the Mediterranean Sea and Lake Preola within the WWF Nature Reserve. The Coste a Preola Grillo is a wine that symbolizes the strong bond between Gorghi Tondi and the oasis. Grillo is the main variety grown on the estate with over 40% of the vineyards dedicated to the varietal. Grillo benefits from a high day-night temperature range, as well as the "marine aerosol" action of the sea breeze, and the changing climatic conditions, all of which are favourable to producing excellent quality Grillo grapes.

Coste a Preola is located in southwestern Sicily, in the countryside of Mazara del Vallo, Trapani, within the San Nicola District, at an elevation of about 25 metres above sea level. The Grillo grapes come from single Guyot trained vines that are nearly 20 years old and planted on soil composed of a medium-textured limestone substrate tending to sandy. To craft this wine, the grapes were fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks and remained in tanks for 5 months to mature on its lees.

From a favourable growing season that will be remembered as an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2022 Grillo from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GORGHI TONDI COSTE A PREOLA GRILLO 2022 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#11670) (XD) - $18.95
This organic white wine has a medium-high intensity nose that is elegantly aromatic with depth, offering lovely yellow fruit, lemon oil citrus, earthy-leesy minerality, white peach, and apple aromas with whiffs of sea breeze and white florals adding further complexity. It has good weight on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied, well-structured palate with a lightly honeyed profile of lemon, apple, wild herbs, and saline mineral flavours. It has a very good, well-structured and textured mouthfeel and juicy, slightly tart acidity. Mineral notes linger on the savoury, lengthy, and textured finish. Should improve over the next 3-4 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A higher-end Grillo by Gorghi Tondi will be available at the LCBO in the coming days, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc 2022 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, organic and vegan white wine blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon from Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 2nd.

It is produced by Maison Raymond, a vigneron and negociant that is located in the southeastern end of Bordeaux's largest appellation, the Entre-Deux-Mers region, southeast of the city of Bordeaux. It was founded by the Raymond family in 1850 and, as such, they have a long history of winegrowing since the medieval times in the villages of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Martial, and Saint-Felix de Conclude.

Today, Maison Raymond is led by the 8th generation of the family. They reside on the family property of Domaine du Château de Lagarde, which had been built over the years by successive generations. The winery honours its heritage by using a special combination of ancestral tradition and the most efficient modern technologies to craft its wines. Organic farming at Maison Raymond was introduced after Lionel Raymond acquired an organic vineyard in 2000 and, because he had a strong respect for the environment and terroir, he was convinced that organic was the way to move forward and proceeded to convert all 130 hectares of vines at Maison Raymond to organic viticulture. Most winemakers in the area thought he was crazy as it was twice the work of a conventional vineyard. Today, Maison Raymond is one of Bordeaux's largest organic wineries and one of the few in the region that has made a commitment to organic viticulture. Maison Raymond is passionately relentless in its commitment to crating wines using natural, chemical-free methods, and without compromising on quality.

Like the 2019 Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc that I enjoyed a few years ago, this vintage is also a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Sémillon. The grapes were sourced from hillside sites in Saint Laurent du Bois. The climate at these sites is mild, with cooling breezes off the Atlantic Ocean, with lots of sunshine and regular rain. The vineyards are planted in soil composed of clay and limestone. The grapes were vinified completely in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, without the use of any oak.

The 2022 growing season was surprisingly good, despite the perilous conditions. Winter started cool and dry, with dry conditions remaining in place even as temperatures started to rise in spring, and allowed for both an early and successful budburst and flowering. The aforementioned perilous conditions arrived with frosts in April and significant hailstorms in June. Yields were cut, but temperatures continued to rise, leading to drought conditions. July was the driest in decades, and from that month onward there was virtually no rain, and it featured prominent heatwaves. Serious wildfires sparked concerns of smoke taint, but most of the vineyards managed to escape unscathed. Cool nights helped bring some relief, which in turn helped preserve aromatic freshness and acidity in the fruit. Harvest was a little early, with much of the resulting fruit exceptionally fine. Let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES HAUTS DE LAGARDE BLANC 2022 - Vegan, AC Bordeaux, France (#387787) (XD) - $19.95
This organic white wine is a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Sémillon. The medium to medium-high intensity nose offers an attractive bouquet of citrus, apple, grapefruit, orange, and honeysuckle aromas layered over guava, passion fruit, and tropical fruit notes. It has good concentration on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied with lovely citrus, grapefruit, white floral, herbal, and spice flavours. It's supported by fresh, lemony acidity, while citrusy, spice, and mineral notes linger on the juicy finish, with very good length. Enjoyable now, but will be even better with a further 6-12 months in the cellar. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other fine wines by Maison Raymond can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Brancaia N°2 Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, organic Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maremma Toscana DOC in Italy that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the feature on Italian Women in Wine in the March 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Brancaia, a prominent and modern estate winery that was revived in 1981 when the Swiss couple Brigitte and Bruno Widmer fell in love with each other and purchased an abandoned winery on the Brancaia hill in Castellina in Chianti. There were four hectares of vineyards on the site, and with their location on a hill they thought it should be possible to produce first-class wine here that reflects the character of the region. The Widmer family was able to move forward with the production of quality wine and the infrastructure and know-how of the Mazzei family.

In 1986, the family winery gained recognition at an important 1983 vintage Chianti Classico tasting and international acclaim followed soon thereafter. The success of the winery led to expansion in Radda in Chianti in 1989. In 1998, the Widmer's acquired 82 hectares of land facing the Mediterranean Sea (only 10 kilometres away) in the Maremma, within the territory of the municipality of Grosseto, to establish Brancaia in Maremma. Like their other estates, Brancaia planted vineyards in Maremma that were surrounded by forests and, thus, protected it from any spray from their neighbours.

While the Swiss couple laid the foundation stone, Brancaia has long been in the hands of the second generation of the Widmer family. Today, the family business is run by Barbara Widmer, daughter of Brigitte & Bruno. Living on the estate since the 1990s, Barbara took part in her first harvest in 1993, and began studying oenology in Switzerland in 1995. She is supported by the whole family, including the 3rd generation, who is now also involved in smaller tasks, but getting more and more involved every day. For example, her daughter, Nina, helps out with social media activities, while her son, Nicolas, likes to help out in the Osteria’s kitchen.

Brancaia is a top-producer of high-quality, organic wines. Since 1982, only a year after their founding, Brancaia has been cultivating organic viticulture because their vineyards on Brancaia hill were always completely surrounded by forest, and they never had to be concerned that spray from their neighbours would reach Brancaia. All the wines are vinified at Brancaia in cellars and a logistics centre that meets the highest standards. The Widmer family values traditions and feels a strong connection to Tuscany, while also not being afraid to break new ground. Since day one, Brancaia has been producing top-quality wines typical of the region and without compromise. While they are proud of what they have achieved so far, the Widmer family has a drive to keep developing.

First produced in 2015, the "N°2" is the little brother to their flagship Ilatraia wine from Maremma. It is crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown exclusively in their vineyards in Maremma and is classified as a Maremma Toscana DOC wine, a relatively new appellation that was elevated to DOC status in 2011. The vineyards where this Cabernet Sauvignon was grown are planted on sandy loamy soil, with two-thirds sand and one-third silt and clay, and situated between 75 and 175 metres above sea level with a southwest exposure to the sun. The climate in this area is mediterranean with very hot summers and very mild winters. There are also massive differences between day and nighttime temperatures, as well as a nearly constant coastal breeze from the sea in the west that assures continuous ventilation of the vineyards. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-picked and spontaneously fermented using cultivated yeast at 28°C, with up to 18 days of must contact. It was matured for 12 months in used tonneaux, followed by further ageing for a few months in bottle.

From a good-to-excellent vintage, let's see how this 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BRANCAIA N°2 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - DOC Maremma Toscana, Italy (#28451) (XD) - $33.95
This organic 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is ripe with black cherry, red currant, cassis, and Doris plum aromas accented with savoury whiffs of earth and reductive notes. On the medium-full bodied, well-structured palate it has ripe and spicy flavours of black cherry, red currant, plum, forest herbs, mineral, and wet earth with touches of iron. It is juicy with crisp acidity and ripe, well-structured tannins that have some youthful grip. Savoury minerals linger on the long, grippy, well-structured finish. Enjoyable now, but will reward with a few years in the cellar. Drink over the next 8-10 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Minimal quantities of other fine wines by Brancaia can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Maucoil Privilège Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2020 (Rhône) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2016 Château Maucoil Privilège Châteauneuf-du-Pape a few years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest edition of this terrific, certified organic red wine that arrived at the LCBO last month in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 16th - with plenty of bottles still available for purchase.

It is produced by Château Maucoil, an historic property that is situated in an area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that has been occupied since Roman times when they set up a base for Caesar's legions. The Château Maucoil estate and castle was built in 1624 and inherited by Joseph de La Pise, Lord of Maucoil and archivist of the House of Orange-Nassau (the Dutch royal family). Winegrowing has been an intrinsic part of the property since the 17th century, with Château Maucoil possessing some of Châteauneuf-du-Pape's oldest vines, some of which are over 100 years old.

Château Maucoil has changed hands many times over the years, with a series of illustrious families taking over the reins to develop the estate and establish its reputation. Most recently, in late 2022, Château Maucoil was acquired by Bernard Duseigneur from Groupe Maucoil Lavau, which was owned jointly by the (65%) Lavau and (35%) Bonnet families.

Today, Château Maucoil has 45 hectares of vines in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, all of which have been tended to organically since 2011. With the estate's privileged situation and unique terroir, the vines are allowed to grow at pace with care, precision, and patience. The soils are worked in the traditional method, without any chemical weed killers, while preferring the use of ancient methods such as furrowing, forming mounds, and ploughing. The vineyards are tended to with maximum respect for the people and the environment.

This cuvée marks a return to the traditions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape by using the original 13 grape varieties that were permitted within the AOC (in 2009 the list of permitted grape varieties was expanded). It is crafted with 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Cinsault, Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Counoise, Terret, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardan. All the grapes were hand-harvested from a plot of old vines that were planted on sand and large rounded stones. After meticulously sorting the grapes, it was vinified using traditional methods and represents a return to the origins of winemaking by co-fermenting the grapes and ageing for 18 months in larger demi-muids. It was then aged for several years in bottle prior to release.

The 2020 growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a mild winter, followed by a hot and dry summer, with slightly cooler nights, which led to wines with good freshness and balance. Conditions during harvest were ideal, resulting in a stress-free vintage with solid yields. Since 2020 lacked lengthier periods of extreme heat, Grenache took its time to ripen. Fortunately, some light rain arrived towards the end of September, and by early October all Grenache grapes were harvested. There is some variance in the quality of wines from 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but overall, the wines are harmonious, fresh, balanced, and engaging, with more delicate tannins and lower alcohol levels, and offer immediate drinkability.

It is also interesting that the 2016 I enjoyed in November 2020 retailed for $86, while this vintage is priced at more than 25% less, an unusual surprise in these highly inflationary times, although the ownership change may have been a factor. Let's see how this organic 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU MAUCOIL PRIVILÈGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020 - AC, Rhône, France (#16210) (XD) - $62.95
Certified organic and a blend of 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Cinsault, Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Counoise, Terret, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardan. The highly aromatic nose is deep and complex with aromas of ripe, dark red & black fruits, black cherry, black raspberry, blackberry, stony mineral, garrigue, white pepper spice, kirsch, and smoke. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it is ripe, harmonious, gently spicy, and warming, but within balance, with lovely savoury, stony, black-blue fruits, peppery spice, garrigue, and meaty flavours with touches of violet. Acids are crisp, juicy, and succulent, while the ripe tannins are smooth and refined with good structure. Stony, smoky, meaty, and peppery spice notes linger on the finish, with excellent length. Provides immense pleasure now, and will continue to do so over the next 10+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines by Château Maucoil can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Chakana Finca Los Cedros Malbec 2020 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic and vegan Malbec from Paraje Altamira in Argentina that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on October 7th.

Chakana Wines was founded by the Pelizzatti family in 2002 when they acquired 300 hectares of land in Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina. The Pelizzatti family is originally from the mountainous region of Valtellina in Lombardy, Italy, where their ancestors had a long history of making quality wines. In 2003, Chakana had their first successful grape harvest at Finca Nuna in Agrelo.

Expansion and an exhaustive study of the soils occurred during the decade until tragedy struck in 2009, where late frosts affected 70% of the vines at Finca Nuna. In 2010, a group of families who were inspired by the Pelizzatti family and moved by their passion and strength joined the winery project as shareholders. This has led to further exploration in the search for quality, including developing an appreciation for agroecology (sustainable farming that works with nature) and alternative production methods.

Later in 2010, a 15-hectare farm was purchased south of the Tunuyán River, in Paraje Altamira, and it was named Finca Los Cedros. Further expansion occurred, including exporting wines to international markets, and in 2012 they started the formal transition to organic certification. In 2014, Chakana obtained organic certification for their vineyard and winery in Agrelo, and furthermore, obtained Demeter biodynamic certification in 2016.

As the Pelizzatti family stepped away from the project in 2019, Chakana continues today with this same spirit and purpose under renewed leadership. Chakana is considered one of the benchmarks and models in winegrowing due to their essence and philosophy, including their sustainable and organic winemaking practices. As soil is not only essential for food production, it also serves as a reflection of terroir, and in the search for the best wines, one cannot underestimate the importance of soil or fail to attend to its care or knowledge.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Malbec, a single vineyard wine that was grown at Chakana's Finca Los Cedros vineyard high up in the Paraje Altamira GI at 3,600 feet above sea level, in the district of La Consulta, in the department of San Carlos. The climate in this area is cool and sunny, with good thermal amplitude, but is also relatively more humid than other areas of Mendoza due to its location at the foot of the mountain. The vineyard is drip-irrigated using a reservoir of crystalline meltwater. The grapes were planted at a high density on sandy loam soil with calcareous gravel. The grapes were manually harvested and placed into small boxes. Upon arriving at the winery in Agrelo, the grapes were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for 10 months in a combination of 5,000 Litre oak barrels and concrete vats.

The 2020 growing season was a challenging one in Mendoza. The vintage was one of the earliest and warmest on record, and along with low rainfall, led to reduced yields. However, the grape quality was excellent if you were able to pick at the right moment. Let's see how this 2020 Malbec from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHAKANA FINCA LOS CEDROS MALBEC 2020 - Vegan, Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#32142) (XD) - $20.95
Organic and vegan. 100% Malbec. The medium-high intensity nose is rich and spicy with dark fruited aromas of blackberry, violet floral, black cherry, and stony-earthy mineral notes accented with dried herbs and spices. It's medium-full bodied and ripe with chewy, well-structured tannins and juicy acidity that frames the dark fruited, blackberry, violet floral, black cherry, black plum, and mineral flavours with a touch of spice. Some smoky and tea leaf characters add further intrigue on the nicely textured and somewhat chalky and drying mid-palate. Mineral and smoky notes linger on the long, juicy finish. On the bigger, savoury side of Malbec and a highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely Chakana Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Les Vignerons du Castelas Le Monarque Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic, Viognier-based white wine blend from Rhône that arrived at the LCBO over the long weekend in the October 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Les Vignerons du Castelas, a co-operative winery that was established in 1952 by a handful of winegrowers that were keen to combine their efforts and wills to produce appellation wines of high quality. The co-op is located in Rochefort du Gard, between Pont d'Avignon and Pont du Gard, on the right bank of the Rhône River, and is named after a XII century Romanesque chapel that is perched atop the village. The origins of Rochefort du Gard as a winegrowing village goes back to 1933, when it became one of the first villages to be approved in the, at the time, very young Côtes du Rhône Appellation, officially gained its status within the appellation in 1937.

Following the formation of the co-op, the winery opened its doors three years later, in 1955, on the eve of harvest, and inscribed on the cellar walls was the quote "Less wine but better" - a philosophy that still holds today. Since that time, several generations have followed one another and, together, they continue to make wines with respect for tradition, while also respecting the people and the land.

Today, 45 families of winemakers, who are attached to their land and vineyard, form Les Vignerons du Castelas. Together, they have over 450 hectares of vineyards, mainly in the Côtes du Rhône appellation, with four distinct soil characteristics - deep soils on stony spreads, marl soils, sandy soils, and Villafranchian terraced floors - with each soil type playing an important role in the character of the wine. The families of winegrowers cultivate their quality vines in order to create supple and pleasurable wines for every occasion. The winemakers of Rochefort du Gard are committed, by vocation, to healthy vines on a living soil, to create wines that express the enthusiasm and sincerity of their work accomplished with passion, knowledge, and sensitivity.

The name of this wine - Le Monarque - comes from the butterfly that is found in their region, in the Rhône Valley, and migrates every summer to Africa, travelling more than 4,000 kilometres during its journey. As a wine that seems to show up every couple of years, I last enjoyed the 2019 Les Vignerons du Castelas Le Monarque Côtes du Rhône Blanc just over two years ago. For this vintage, it continues to be a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne, as per the back label. The grapes were grown on sandy marl soils which are mainly composed of clay, limestone, and carbonate sand. The grapes were harvested by machine at night to preserve freshness and underwent a slow, 1-month fermentation in temperature-controlled vats. The wine was matured in concrete tanks and bottled at the property without any added sulphites. Let's see how this 2022 Côtes du Rhône Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS LE MONARQUE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022 - AP, France (#18570) (XD) - $17.95
This organic white wine is a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne. Fragrant and highly attractive aromas of yellow and white florals, lemon citrus, ripe apple, and pear with white peach and herbally tones. It's medium-full bodied and impressively concentrated on the fleshy palate with lovely yellow and white floral, lemon citrus, apple, pear, and herbal replays in a dry flavour profile. Some leesy mineral notes appear on the nicely textured, slightly oily palate. Juicy with fresh, zesty acidity, while citrusy, orchard fruit, and leesy mineral notes linger on the long, succulent, and lightly spicy finish. Lots going on here and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other delicious wines by Les Vignerons du Castelas can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Castello di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Chianti Classico made with Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as the Wine of the Month in the September 9 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Castello di Bossi wines are produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned winery located in Tuscany. The Bacci family has a long history rooted in Tuscany. Bacci Wines was founded by Marco Bacci, who began his working career at the age of 19 in their family business that specialized in clothing, a company that eventually became an icon in Italy's fashion sector. From this success, Marco founded a real estate company to take advantage of the period of economic growth in the sector. In a short time, Marco acquired several properties, including Castello di Bossi in 1984.

Winemaking was a pleasant pasttime for Marco until 1985, when he bottled his first wine. In 1996, he left the fashion sector to dedicate his body and soul to the wine industry and acquired several more estates to reach a grand total of 6 wine estates, mostly in Tuscany. Today, Bacci Wines is not only dedicated to producing high-quality wines from the Tuscan region, but are well-known for their commitment to sustainable and organic farming practices, prioritizing environmental sustainability, and producing their wines with great respect for the land.

Castello di Bossi is situated in the southern half of the Chianti Classico zone, within the territory of the commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga UGA. The site where Castello di Bossi resides has a long history going back to when the first tower was built there in the year 1090. In 1450, the original structure was expanded into the 4-walled fortress that can be seen today. The historic castle is an iconic landmark that also serves as the centrepiece of the winery. The estate has changed hands several times over the years and now covers 650 hectares, with 124 hectares under vines that are mostly planted with Sangiovese. The grapes for this Chianti Classico are typically grown at 350 metres (1,148 feet) above sea level on tufo, brown and yellow clay, and broken stone soils.

I've enjoyed this wine for many years, including most recently the 2018 Castello di Bossi C. Berardenga Chianti Classico last year. The 2020 growing season was a challenging one (due to the pandemic), but offered winegrowers the opportunity to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. While it is difficult to generalize a vintage in Chianti Classico because each UGA experiences its own unique conditions, the vintage quality and quantity in 2020 is good, and in some cases excellent. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from the Castelnuovo Berardenga UGA is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASTELLO DI BOSSI C. BERARDENGA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#994608) (XD) - $22.95
This organic Sangiovese was aged in barrel for 12 months and is fresh and intensely aromatic with a very pretty nose of ripe pure red and dark red cherries that are joined by red currant, baking spices, clove, cinnamon, and gentle oak spice aromas. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with fresh, juicy acidity and ripe flavours of red fruited currant, plum, and cherry, plus cedary oak spice and clove notes adding a savoury component. Ripe, gently drying, and grippy tannins coat the palate. Tangy on the mid-palate, while red currant, plum, cherry, and cedary oak notes with hints of mineral linger on the long finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 3-4 years. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Castello di Bossi can be purchased from the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia./ Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Hidden Bench Béton Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2022 Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé last month, tonight's white wine review is another lovely organic wine from the same producer. In fact, this is the first vintage for this wine and also brand new to the LCBO, arriving in-stores and online as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 5.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery is one of Niagara's leading boutique wineries. It was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family in Beamsville Bench when they acquired the Locust Lane vineyard. A year later, Hidden Bench purchased the Rosomel Vineyard, where this white wine was grown. Today, the focus at Hidden Bench is on artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards. Their philosophy is based on a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach. Hidden Bench has a long, well-established reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally, and their wines have earned numerous accolades over the years, and much of their success can be attributed to their location within the VQA Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in Niagara.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was organically certified and estate grown at their Rosomel Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. The Rosomel Vineyard is set on a broad terrace where the escarpment forms a double bench. The vineyard gently slopes northward towards the lake, with the edge of the vineyard bordered by wooded thickets on three sides, while the Bruce Trail runs along the upper bench, directly behind the vineyard. Because the vineyard is positioned between two benches, it is protected from harsher winds, while the gentle slopes and its proximity to the lake ensures that air circulates throughout the vineyard, and helps prevent frost or Botrytis.

In 2021, because of the wet growing season, they exposed the bunches at fruit-set to sunlight by removing leaves on the east side of the canopy, which also opened up air flow from the west side. A green harvest was done at the start of véraison, and they left only the healthiest bunches on the vine in order to promote ripeness, concentration of flavours, and the expression of terroir. The grapes were harvested and sorted by hand, then gently whole bunch pressed. The wine is named "Béton", which translates to "Concrete", because it was naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks and remained in concrete for 7 months to age on its lees, until bottling.

The growing season in 2021 started with a mild and relatively dry winter which protected the buds. Spring was warm, leading to an earlier than average budbreak and was coupled with an excellent vegetative growth phase through May and June which resulted in early and complete flowering towards the Summer Solstice. The fruit set was excellent, while the crop size was larger than average and was supported by ample moisture and heat during July and August. Anticipating an excellent (and large) vintage, leaf removal to open the canopy, as well as fruit thinning and balancing throughout the summer to the end of August kept the winegrowing team busy. Rainfall during harvest presented challenges, but overall they were pleased with the quality of the fruit. The 2021 growing season will be remembered as a winegrower's vintage, where a nimble approach and attention to detail from vineyard to bottle helped produce very good, early varietal wines. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH BÉTON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Rosomel Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#33552) (XD) - $27.95
Fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Enclosed by screw cap. This lovely, organic Sauvignon Blanc has a fragrant nose that leads with intriguing flinty minerality aromas, followed by ripe lemon citrus and pear, plus some ripe tropical fruit, thyme, herbs, and grass notes that add complexity. It is impressively weighted on the medium-full bodied, nicely textured palate with lovely, dry flavours of ripe lemon citrus, pear, grapefruit, and flinty mineral, with touches of white peach and cucumber. Fresh acidity is juicy and succulent. It's somewhat spicy on the mid-palate, while citrus and mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Different, intriguing, and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fantastic wines from Hidden Bench are available through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Planeta Frappato 2021 (Sicily) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2018 Planeta Frappato Vittoria a couple of years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific (and now organically certified) red wine that arrived at the LCBO last weekend in the July 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Planeta, a well-established and respected wine producer based on the island of Sicily, Italy. The Planeta family have been involved in the agricultural evolution on the complex lands of Sicily for over 500 years and 17 generations. Their approach has always been inclined towards openness and innovation, and in the early 1900's, Grandfather Vito led the way towards new solutions and new prospects by transforming the small, family winery in Menfi, in western Sicily, into a large co-operative in a short period of time.

Fast-forward to the mid-1980's, the Planeta family planted their first vines around a 16th century farmhouse, Ulmo, which the family has always owned. They wanted to provide this beautiful place full of memories with a new future and built their first winery at the site in 1995, on the banks of Lake Arancio and its nearby woods. The success of the winery at Ulmo led to further expansion on the island, with the idea of producing each wine in its own territory.

In addition to the winery in Menfi, Planeta also has wineries in Etna, Capo Milazzo, Noto, and where this wine is from - Vittoria. The Dorilli estate was established in Vittoria by renovating the big country house which stood at the centre of the family's landholding in the late-1990's, with the first vines planted in 1997. Vittoria is a place redolent of history and the long agricultural traditions of the Planeta family - even their ancestors couldn't agree on whether Vittoria or Menfi would be better suited to cultivate vines.

Planeta is still family-owned and operated today, with primarily two generations of the family, which includes brothers and sisters, children, nieces and nephews, who work together with a vision of unity, a love for the land, and a desire to protect it by using sustainable and environmentally-friendly viticultural approaches to winemaking. Planeta is also dedicated to producing high-quality wines that showcase the unique terroir of Sicily's diverse wine regions.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Frappato, a rare, exclusive, and sought after variety that is grown in only a few hectares around Vittoria, on the island of Sicily. It is cultivated according to sustainable and organic standards and reaches its ultimate expression in the red sands of Vittoria, not far from the sea, where this wine is from. The soils in Vittoria are primarily sandy textured and consist of mainly loose red sands with a structure of small dimensions, moderately deep. An important layer of tufa (limestone) sits at about 90 cm deep, allowing for water capacity and balance for the plants. This Frappato was grown in the Mogli vineyard, which is located 70 metres above sea level.

The grapes were hand picked and transported to the winery in small trolleys. Once the grapes arrived at the winery, they were de-stemmed and pressed, then fermented in stainless steel tanks. After alcoholic fermentation is completed, the wine remains in contact with the skins for 10-13 days. After malolactic fermentation, the wine remains in stainless steel tanks for further maturation, prior to bottling. From a smaller, but formidable vintage, let's see how this 2021 Frappato from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PLANETA FRAPPATO 2021 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia Vittoria, Italy (#508655) (XD) - $24.95
Organic, 100% Frappato raised entirely in stainless steel tanks. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is elegantly aromatic with red berry, raspberry, herbs, red licorice, cherry, and smoky-stony mineral aromas with touches of floral and earth. On the dry, light-to-mid weighted palate it offers juicy and ripe raspberry, herbal, cherry, earthy mineral flavours that are backed by fresh, well-balanced acidity and light, dusty textured tannins. It has very nice interplays between the berry fruit, savoury mineral, and herbal characters, with the mineral notes lingering through to the long-lasting, gently chalky textured finish. Even better than last time and a highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Quite a few wines by Planeta are available at the LCBO, albeit in limited quantities, while the whol range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Greystone Pinot Noir 2018 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is another excellent, organic, and vegan-friendly Pinot Noir from New Zealand. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving as part of the recent July 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Greystone Wines, a 100% certified organic winery that was established in 2000 by the Thomas Family when they saw something magical - a promise of excellence - in an old sheep farm in Waipara’s Omihi Hills, in northern Canterbury on the South Island of New Zealand. Greystone draws its name from the unique limestone conglomerate that is the bedrock on which their vine roots grow in. This limestone mix of fossils, sea shells, and small pebbles had been fused together over time through the seismic movement of North Canterbury, becoming an ancient seabed that was pushed and folded upwards to form the Teviotdale Hills. Pinot Noir loves soils with limestone, and thus different clones, aspects and blocks were planted to see what was capable from this bare land.

As the family believes that true fine wines are temporal, each vintage a fleeting snapshot of a place in time. The family doesn't seek to manipulate the final product with additives or flavourings, instead, they allow the true interpretation of the soil, vines, and season to shine through. They take intense pleasure in protecting their land and using organic practices as it leads to many ecological benefits, such as healthy soils, healthy waterways, biodiversity, and a safe place for bees and other beneficial insects. The use of natural products throughout production also provides a safe and happy work environment for their dedicated team. They see their commitment to organic winegrowing as a bigger picture collaboration with the planet towards a more stable climate and sustainable ecosystem.

The story of how Greystone became one of New Zealand's most acclaimed organic vineyards began in early 2014 when they started their conversion from conventional to organic viticulture. By 2018, they had successfully converted their entire 33-hectare vineyard to certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. In 2021, they began their journey to become a fully regenerative and carbon-neutral farm. Today, Greystone is one of NZ's first regenerative agricultural wine brands.

Organic winegrowing relies on harnessing biodiversity and natural ecological cycles as an alternative to the use of synthetic and external inputs. It is a hands-on and labour-intensive approach, which also means being intimately connected to the vineyard and attuned to the subtle changes in the soil, vines, and grapes. Synthetic chemicals are avoided to ensure the health and abundance of microbial flora above and below the soil, which results in successful wild fermentation as this is only possible because of the flourishing yeast populations found in the vineyard.

As vineyards are a monoculture, to increase biodiversity, Greystone cultivates "companion plantings" such as Phacelia, Buckwheat, and Alyssum in the inter-rows, as well as planting native trees and vegetation to disrupt the monocultural environment. Crop management is meticulously done by hand without the use of any herbicides, insecticides, or systemic fungicides, thus reducing disease pressure and increasing overall wine quality.

This 100% Pinot Noir (clones 115, 667, 777, and 5) was organically grown on their estate, on clay over limestone soils. The grapes were carefully hand-picked and sorted, then wild fermented with 10% whole bunches at ambient temperatures. They gently hand plunged each vat daily before pressing to French oak barriques after one month of maceration. Each barrel underwent a natural malolactic fermentation the following summer. It was aged for 11 months in French oak barriques, 28% new, and was then blended and bottled.

The growing season in Waipara Valley began with spring rains that cooled the soil and gave the vines a slow start to the season. Flowering wasn't ideal, leading to small bunches and lots of leaf growth, so it needed extensive canopy work to ensure even ripening. Summer helped turn things around in the new year with a particularly dry & hot February, leading to a harvest that delivered pristine fruit with great concentration, but very small yields. Let's see how this 2018 Pinot Noir from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GREYSTONE PINOT NOIR 2018 - Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand (#30151) (XD) - $33.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this lovely organic and vegan-friendly Pinot Noir has a fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic nose with a lovely, balanced, and complex mix of dark red cherry, strawberry, spices, earthy-stony minerality and beetroot aromas. It's mid-weighted with very good concentration on the elegant palate with smooth, gentle, and refined tannins, along with fresh, juicy acidity. It's very nicely balanced with lovely dark red cherry, strawberry, earthy beetroot, and spices, plus touches of plum flavours surrounding a stony mineral core. Supple mouthfeel with tea leaf notes emerging on the mid-palate, while the finish is exceptionally long with lingering stony mineral notes. Wow. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 93 pts

A limited quantiy of other fine wines by Greystone are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé 2022 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is a lovely organic and dry rosé from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Hidden Bench Estate Winery, one of the top wineries in the Niagara Peninsula. Hidden Bench was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family with a dedication to artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards situated within the sup-appellation of VQA Beamsville Bench in Niagara, Ontario. With a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach, Hidden Bench has long-established an ongoing reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally.

The Beamsville Bench is home to many of the best wines produced in Ontario. Much of this success is attributed to the limestone-rich, clay-based, and glacial till soils - all three of Hidden Bench's estate vineyards are situated on these soils and allow them to produce complex, mineral-driven wines that are old-world in style, age worthy, and have a definitive sense of place. The three estate vineyards are farmed for low yields using organic and biodynamic practices to produce approximately 120,000 bottles of wine with pronounced complexity and character which bear a sense of place and time.

Hidden Bench also employs the latest technologies to enhance the viticultural and winemaking processes, while respecting their traditional non-interventionist winemaking style. As stewards of the land, Hidden Bench has also embraced sustainability as they apply Procert certified organic and sustainable best practices in the vineyard, at the winery, and the marketing of their wines to reduce their environmental footprint on the land, and impact on their neighbours, and society as a whole.

I've had the pleasure of tasting many wines over the years from Hidden Bench, and their passion is always on full display as they embrace a whole-team approach that is founded upon a shared, ongoing passion for excellence, as well as a contagious enthusiasm. Their ongoing and uncompromising attention to detail distinguishes and differentiates their wines and winery from their contemporaries.

Having tasted this rosé wine several times in the past, I know that the exact composition changes with each vintage. For the 2022 vintage, this dry rosé is composed of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. All of the grapes were grown organically on the estate and crafted using a combination of both "direct to press" and "saignée" techniques. As this blend is predominantly Pinot Noir, the elegance of whole-cluster pressed Pinot Noir, combined with a small percentage of the richer saignée portion, provides a unique complexity to the finished wine, while both portions were fermented in neutral French oak and aged for 5 months prior to racking and blending.

The 2022 vintage began with cold temperatures in January, with overnight lows close to -21°C. This cold snap caused some primary bud damage, and was partially responsible for a 25% reduction in grape yields compared to their historical average. Spring brought better weather with seasonal temperatures and minimal precipitation. Flowering started earlier than normal, while the berry set was complete by late June. Summer was moderate and dry, with seasonal rainfall. The main challenge in the vineyard was managing disease pressures, which were the result of high humidity from June through August. Disease pressure was reduced by keeping the fruit clean through timely leaf removal, crop thinning, and a disciplined and timely organic spray program. Veraison began in early August and was completed towards the middle of the month, while harvest began in the middle of September and lasted until mid-to-late October. Hidden Bench was blessed with consistent and favourable weather during harvest, which allowed them to choose pick dates based on flavour and ripeness.

It is often said, particularly in Niagara, that the quality of the vintage is determined by the weather in September and October. Overall, Hidden Bench was pleased with the quality of the harvested fruit, albeit in smaller-than-normal quantities. It is expected that the 2022 vintage is excellent across the board with wines that will truly showcase the terroir of the Beamsville Bench in Niagara. Let's see how this 2022 rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2022 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#68833) (XD) - $24.95
This organic rosé is blend of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. The deep and intense nose offers lovely, complex aromas of grapefruit, citrus, orange, stony minerals, and floral accented with strawberry, melon, watermelon, and peach. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, lightly honeyed palate with fresh, juicy acidity supporting grapefruit, citrus, strawberry, watermelon, melon, orange, mineral, and floral flavours. Slightly viscous mouthfeel on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced with pleasing mineral, grapefruit, and citrus flavours that are joined by spicy notes on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Many other lovely wines from the fine portfolio of Hidden Bench Estate Winery can be purchased through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2022 (Alto Adige) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely, organic Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. A perennial favourite of mine, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the feature on "Summer Sippers" in the June 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is readily available to buy now.

Terra Alpina wines are produced by Alois Lageder Winery, an historic family winery that was founded in 1823 and is located in Alto Adige in northern Italy. The long and rich history of the Lageder family and wine began in 1823 when the young craftsman Johann Lageder set himself up as a wine merchant in Bolzano. Beginning in 1934, his successors purchased vineyards to produce their own wines and, today, Alois Lageder is in the hands of the sixth generation of the family.

The project of Terra Alpina was initiated by the Lageder family as part of their initiative to collaborate with growers and neighbouring communities to produce high-quality wines that reflect their unique origin - the Dolomites - a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. The foothills of the Dolomite range offer both a cool Alpine and warm Mediterranean influence that allows the region to craft fresh, precise, and expressive wines which are also influenced by the prevalent Dolomitic limestone in the soil. With the Lageder family's centuries of experience and holistic understanding of nature, they are able to select the best terroirs and the optimal exploitation of the special climatic, geological, and topographic conditions in the area to produce exceptional wines.

Organic and biodynamic viticulture is top of mind at Alois Lageder as all of their own vineyards are farmed according to biodynamic principles. The Lageder family works with approximately 80 contract grape growers and share their knowledge and experience with partners from other regions, encouraging, motivating, and supporting them to convert to organic or biodynamic farming. Together with their partners, the Lageder family works in a way that responds to nature with great care, curiosity, and respect.

The grapes for this Pinot Grigio were grown in selected areas in the Dolomiti area at an altitude between 220 to 350 metres above sea level. These vineyards are planted on mostly Dolomitic limestone and volcanic porphyry soils, and experience a fairly cool meso-climate with great variations between day and night temperatures. The vines range between 14 and 34 years old. It was fermented using selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks, followed by maturation on fine lees for at least four months.

The 2022 growing season in Alto Adige yielded extraordinary whites due to the hot summer. The region experienced record-high temperatures as early as May, causing fast and early blossoming, including at higher altitudes. The hot and dry weather conditions continued into June, July, and August, leading to an early harvest. The white varieties did surprisingly well, turning out unusually powerful, but still fresh and fruity. It is expected that the classic characteristics of Alto Adige white wines will be preserved, even in such an exceptional year. Let's see how this 2022 Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALOIS LAGEDER TERRA ALPINA PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Alto Adige, Italy (#681429) (XD) - $20.95
Screw cap enclosure. This organic Pinot Grigio has a bright, highly aromatic nose that is fresh, clean, and crisp with lovely ripe lemon citrus, white peach, and honeysuckle aromas accented with stony minerals and touches of herbal and white spice notes. It's medium-full bodied and quite concentrated on the dry, ripe palate with delicious white peach, lemon, citrus, grapefruit, white pepper spice, and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, juicy acidity, and exceptionally long on the juicy, balanced, lemon, white peach, and leesy mineral flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy from a great vintage! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alois Lageder can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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