Catena Lunlunta Old Vines Appellation Malbec 2021 (Argentina) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2018 Catena Lunlunta Old Vines Appellation Malbec three years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific wine that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the theme on wines from Argentina in the Feb. 3, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Catena Zapata, one of Argentina's and the world's most renowned and prestigious wine growers and producers. The winery was founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena in Mendoza, Argentina, and was later revitalized to international acclaim in the 1980s by Nicola's grandson - Nicolás Catena Zapata.

Today, the family-run winery is now in the hands of the fourth generation - Dr. Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolás. The Catena family is one of the most iconic and influential wine families and have been instrumental in developing Mendoza into a world-class wine region over the past 100+ years. As one of Argentina's pioneering wineries, Catena Zapata is known for its commitment to innovation, quality, and sustainability, and was one of the first Argentine wineries to introduce modern viticultural and winemaking techniques to the country. The Catena family also played a significant role in elevating Malbec to its current status as Argentina's flagship grape variety. Catena Zapata produces several Malbec wines that showcase the grape's potential, while also focusing on expressing the terroir of Mendoza.

Catena Zapata has several ranges of wines in their portfolio. This particular red wine is from their Appellation Village series of wines, which borrows the idea from Burgundy whereby grapes grown in the territory of certain villages give their name to the appellation. In Argentina, the rural towns of Lunlunta, Vista Flores, San Carlos, Tupungato, Agrelo, and La Consulta lend their names to the beautiful historic vineyards that surround them. Also, like in France where village vineyards are small and often owned by siblings and cousins within the same family due to the Napoleonic code (which establishes that at a person's death, his or her land is divided equally among his or her heirs), in Argentina, over half of the vineyards in Mendoza are less than 4 hectares and owned by multiple family members. The wines of the Catena Appellation Village range express the diversity of terroir and the historic farming customs of these local families.

Like previous vintages, this red wine is crafted with 100% Malbec that was grown in the small Lunlunta district that straddles the administrative departments of both Maipú and Lujan de Cuyo, along the Mendoza River, within the Mendoza wine region. Lunlunta is an idyllic district of small orchards and tree-lined country roads, and is well-known for its ancient Malbec vines. This Malbec is from a vineyard situated at 2,785 feet above sea level that was planted in 1930. The soil composition in this vineyard is sandy and loamy, with 50% sand, 30% silt, 20% clay, and 5% surface stones, and has northwestern exposure to the sun. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks and underwent malolactic fermentation. It was aged in a combination of both stainless steel tanks and 1-year-old 225 L French oak for 12 months, then aged a further 10 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2021 growing season in Argentina was interesting with wetter and colder than normal conditions, along with damp conditions that persisted into summer. Furthermore, spring experienced significant frosts, which cut yields dramatically. The cool humidity meant that growers had to be vigilant against rot and disease, while the general lack of sunlight resulted in grapes taking longer to reach phenolic ripeness. The long growing season ensured that the resulting fruit was in good condition, with the wines showing fine aromatics, acidity, and elegance. Let's see how this 2021 Malbec from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CATENA LUNLUNTA OLD VINES APPELLATION MALBEC 2021 - Sustainable, Mendoza, Argentina (#11769) - (XD) - $24.95
From vines planted in 1930, this lovely Malbec has a medium-high intensity nose that is elegant and ripe with a lovely mix of plummy, blackberry, earthy-stony mineral, spice, and some herbal aromas. On the spicy, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has very fruit-acid-tannin tension that provides a well-structured mouthfeel. Dry with lovely mineral-driven, dark fruited, blackberry, spice, black cherry, plum, and herbal flavours. Structured with tangy and juicy acidity, and medium-firm structured tannins that offer a pleasant, gently chalky grip. Minerally with blackberry, black cherry, and spice notes linger on the long, smoky finish. Enjoyable now, but will reward with a few years in the cellar and drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Many fine wines by Catena are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.