Featherstone Gamay Noir 2022 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Gamay Noir from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO in this weekend's May 23rd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the feature on Local Talent.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, a boutique, certified sustainable winery that was established in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson. The estate winery is situated in Vineland, Ontario, among 23 hectares of rolling hills within the prestigious upper Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The name "Featherstone" is an homage to the gourmet food shop which specialized in poultry that Louise and Dave once owned and was named "Feather", while "stone" comes from the stone rock face and quarry adjacent to the vineyard.

Since its founding in 1999, Featherstone has been practicing eco-friendly farming techniques with respect for the land at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and its site. Since the beginning, Featherstone has been practicing insecticide-free farming, and has employed various sustainable practices over the years. Notably, Featherstone pioneered in the region a small flock of sheep to naturally eat their way through the grape leaves that needed to be removed from the fruiting zone on the vines, while also fertilizing the soil as they moved through the vineyard. Featherstone also takes care of their dirt by avoiding herbicides, planting cover crops, using organic compounds to control mould and mildew, and switching to a recycle sprayer. In 2023, Featherstone received its Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

After 25 years, Featherstone opened a new chapter in 2024 when it was acquired by philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal, while Louise and Dave look forward to their retirement years. After a period of transition, the new owners aim to build upon the successes of the past and carry the winery into the future with sustainability at its core.

Other developments since the change in ownership are that Kevin Qin, a graduate of the Niagara College Winery & Viticulture program who joined Featherstone in 2014, is now the Head Winemaker. Bruce Sawchuk also recently joined Featherstone as Junior Winemaker. The winery also completed their renovations of their new tasting room and expanded their hospitality services by opening the Nest Bistro.

Philanthropy is also a focus at Featherstone as both Rayla and George are firm believers in creating stronger communities through philanthropy. Their annual giving through the Myhal Family Foundation has helped to support projects in Education, Healthcare and Humanitarian efforts globally. With the purchase of Featherstone, their hope is to uplift the surrounding community with an ambitious goal of giving back 10% of all profits to local charities in the area.

To craft this 100% Gamay Noir, which was produced by both winemakers David Johnson and Kevin Chuan Qin, the grapes were machine harvested on October 14, 2022, then brought to the winery to be optically sorted to separate the ripest grapes. The selected grapes were then de-stemmed, crushed, and then cold-soaked on the skins for 72 hours prior to undergoing alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts in their climate-controlled cellar. The wine also completed 100% malolactic fermentation, and was then aged for 10 months in American oak barrels.

The growing season in 2022 was a very low-yielding vintage due to the wet fall of 2021, which was followed by a severe cold episode in winter 2022. While it wasn't a textbook growing season in Niagara, Indian Summer temperatures during harvest were quite favourable and allowed wineries a broad opportunity to harvest the grapes at optimal maturity. September was warm and dry, and the fruit quality during harvest was excellent, with Gamay grapes showing lots of fruit, energy, and depth. From a low-yield and high-quality vintage, let's see how this 2022 Gamay Noir from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE GAMAY NOIR 2022 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#39275) (XD) - $18.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap. Enticing, medium-high intensity aromas of red & black sour cherry, pomegranate, and savoury beetroot notes with hints of smoke, and woody earth. It is light-to-medium bodied on the dry palate with smooth, light, and integrated tannins. Fresh and lively acidity adds a tanginess to the cran-cherry, sour cherry, pomegranate fruit flavours, which are nuanced with savoury wood, and cocoa notes. The crisp and juicy mid-palate leads to savoury, earthy, cocoa, and woody notes on the long, well-balanced, and succulent finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Many other lovely wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.