Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2022 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinotage from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 20 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kanonkop Wine Estate, a 4th generation family-owned estate situated in the Stellenbosch wine region of the Western Cape, South Africa. While the farm has existed since the early part of the 20th century, the first wines bearing the Kanonkop label were produced only in 1973.

The name Kanonkop is derived from a cannon (kanon) that was located on a hillock (kop) on the Simonsberg mountain above the wine estate that was fired to announce the arrival of sailing ships entering Table Bay during the 17th and 18th centuries. The loud roar of the cannon signalled to local farmers that they needed to load up their wagons with fresh fruit and vegetables and make the 50-kilometre journey to the harbour to barter their produce.

When Kanonkop created their first wines in 1973, they entered their name into contention for a place in the annals of South African wine greatness. Kanonkop owes everything it has achieved and all the recognition it has attained to Paul Sauer, the second generation of the family and a man who passed away only three years after the first wines were crafted.

Paul Sauer was a politician in the South African parliament for forty-one consecutive years and spent some of those years as minister of Land and Irrigation, and Public Works and Forestry. Paul grew up with his parents, including his father, JW Sauer, who was an eminent politician and government minister, at the Uitkyk farm located just up the road from Kanonkop. At Uitkyk, Paul formed the foundations of his future great personality, while also developing a love for the land on the slopes of Simonsberg. His appreciation of wine and its culture was profoundly influenced by his mother, Mary, who was the daughter of Hendrik Cloete, the owner of Groot Constantia, South Africa's oldest wine farm.

Today, Kanonkop is run by brothers Johann and Paul Krige, the grandsons of Paul Sauer. As custodians of their grandfather's legacy, the Krige brothers oversee the estate's daily operations. The philosophy at Kanonkop lies in viticulture and terroir - the influences of the soil, climate, and topography and how it shapes the vine, vineyard, and region, and in turn, how it determines the character of the wine. In addition, Kanonkop places an important value on the influence of human interaction on the vines - how the vines are pruned, harvested and worked over generations.

Kanonkop also places an emphasis on vintage. The classic approach to winemaking at Kanonkop is underscored by the vintage. On this unique farm in Stellenbosch, no year in the vineyards are the same. Therefore, the approach in the vineyard is focused and site-specific, concepts which have been at the heart of the estate since its inception, and ensures that the character of each year is captured in the wines. Kanonkop is best-known for their red wines, namely Pinotage and Bordeaux varietal reds, which are renowned for their consistency and sense of place.

This red wine is from Kanonkop's 'Kadette' range, which was born in the mid-1980s when the ever-growing demand for its estate wines outstripped supply. This led to new plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage. However, the ethos at Kanonkop under Beyers Truter at the time was that the vines needed to reach a certain level of maturity before the fruit was deemed good enough to portray the depth and complexity associated with Kanonkop Estate wines. It was Jannie Krige who came up with the idea of making a second label under the name Kadette. With the military association of 'kanon' in the estate's name, it was only logical to name the second label of wines Kadette - a junior brand to the more senior main brand. Today, the grapes for the Kadette range no longer come from Kanonkop vineyards because the demand is too great, and the volume required is simply too large. However, every grape bunch destined for the Kadette range is subjected to the meticulous processes in the winery as the Estate range.

The Kadette Pinotage was first released in 2013. It is crafted with 100% Pinotage grown in Stellenbosch, from supplementally irrigated vines that are 8 to 23 years of age and planted on decomposed granite and Hutton soils. The grapes were fermented in open-top concrete fermenters at 28°C, with the floating skins punched down mechanically every 2 hours during fermentation. The juice was drawn off the skins after 3 days, and after malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in second- and third-fill 225 L French Nevers oak barrels.

In Stellenbosch, the growing season in 2022 was about 2 weeks later than normal, which was also the latest in the past 25 years. It started with a cold winter and enough rain, which resulted in budbreak that was 2 weeks late. Spring and the early part of summer were quite cool, with December having lower maximum and minimum temperatures, while January was more moderate with a couple of hot days. Slow ripening conditions resulted in concentrated fruit development and weight. From a classic Stellenbosch vintage that produced exceptional wines, let's see how this 2022 Pinotage from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KANONKOP KADETTE PINOTAGE 2022 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#30191) (XD) - $21.95
This 100% Pinotage has a medium-high intensity nose that is fresh and lifted with elegant dark berry, blackberry, bramble, savoury spice, and earthy mineral aromas with touches of dried herbs. The medium+ palate is chewy and quite fleshy with lovely ripe black cherry, black plum, bramble, and allspice flavours accented with savoury wood. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside powdery, lightly grippy textured tannins. The spicy mid-palate tapers to savoury, earthy mineral notes on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A couple of other fine wines by Kanonkop are available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Villacreces Pruno 2022 and 2011 (Ribera del Duero) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely Tempranillo-based wines from the DO of Ribera del Duero in Spain. The 2022 vintage of this organic red wine arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the mini-feature on wines from Ribera del Duero.

The 2011 Pruno is a bottle I purchased over a decade ago from the September 28, 2013 LCBO VINTAGES Release. While my notes indicated that I probably should've opened this a few years ago, I figured this would be as good a time as any to open it back-to-back with the current vintage.

Both of these wines are produced by Finca Villacreces, a renowned estate winery situated in Spain's Ribera del Duero wine region with a history dating back to at least 1350, when Pedro de Villacreces, a Franciscan friar, was the first documented resident on the estate. Along with a group of ministers, Pedro cultivated the land, including a small vineyard that was used to make wine for their own use and nearby monasteries.

In 1836, the estate came into private hands, and soon thereafter it held rights over the waters of the Duero river. In the early 20th century, the estate was sold to the Cuadrado family from Valladolid. The Cuadrado family used the estate for various agricultural and recreational purposes, including housing illustrious guests. One of these guests was Peter Sisseck, who used the winery and part of the vineyard to craft the notable Flor de Pingus.

In 2004, the Cuadrado family sold the estate to the father and son team of Gonzalo and Lalo Antón, who already owned wineries in Rioja and Toro. After three years of remodelling and painstaking work to restore the vineyard, Finca Villacreces was once again inaugurated. In 2017, the acquisition of Pinos Claros, within the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero, extended the estate's reach to 275 hectares of vineyards, 90% of which are organically farmed.

Today, Finca Villacreces is situated in the heart of Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, amidst a 200-year-old pine forest and bathed to the north by the Duero River. This unique place brings landscape, tradition, and charm together, with a vineyard that is divided into 15 plots that are interspersed with a centenary pine forest. The vineyard at Finca Villacreces is unique because it is conditioned by the diversity of poor soil, which ranges from extremely sandy areas near the pines to the very stony terrain where pebbles from the alluvial deposition of the Duero river predominate.

Finca Villacreces is a 110-hectare estate, with 64 hectares of vineyards. Situated at 700 metres above sea level, the vineyard is subject to an extreme climate with large temperature fluctuations, long winters, and dry summers with low rainfall. However, the surrounding forest protects Finca Villacreces from the most aggressive climatic conditions. The focus at Finca Villacreces is for quality-focused and integrated viticulture, where the vine's natural condition is controlled and preserved in order to obtain wines with the unique Villacreces typicity and personality. Sustainability is also a focus at Finca Villacreces, with some of these initiatives being vineyard adaptation, support for biodiversity, sustainable packaging, and reduction of carbon footprint.

The 2022 vintage of this red wine is crafted with 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot, from grapes grown among the 64 hectares of vineyards located on the estates of Finca Villacreces and Pinos Claros. The average age of the vines is 25 years, and they are trained using a trellis system with light pines. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks with double pissage (bleed off the juice to increase concentration of colour, tannins, and flavour), followed by malolactic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tank, oak fermentation vat, and oak barrels. The wine was aged for 10 months in 75% French and 25% American second- and third-use oak.

The growing season in Ribera del Duero in 2022 was marked by the absence of rain and remarkably hot temperatures, which resulted in irregular ripening levels. While the grapes were healthy, they did exhibit below average weight with a higher ratio of skin to pulp. This also allowed producers to pick at their chosen time, which will play a key role in defining the individual wine styles. It was a long harvest with the last Tempranillo picked in mid-November. From a very good vintage with wines displaying very good structure and complexity, let's see how this 2022 Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VILLACRECES PRUNO 2022 - Vegan, DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe, dark berried, black cherry, currant, and sweet vanillan oak aromas surrounding a core of plum and accented with floral violet. The dry, medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe dark berry, black cherry, and currant flavours in a spicy profile. More savoury on the mid-palate with cedary oak, earth, and mineral notes. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with chalky, drying, and almost astringent tannins. Savoury earth and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, dry finish. Recommended buy that is best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Score: 89 pts

FINCA VILLACRECES PRUNO 2011 - DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon pours a very dark purple colour. It has savoury spice, leather, and mature, stewed black fruit aromas rising out of the glass with medium+ to medium-high intensity. Savoury wet earth and sandalwood with touches of dried herb and black currant add nuance, interest, and complexity. The medium-bodied palate is spicy with savoury black fruit, currant, leather, sandalwood, and dried herb flavours. Acids are still quite refresh, while the textured tannins are slightly astringent and drying. Alcohol peeks through slightly on the mid-palate, while savoury earth and woody notes linger on the long and slightly tangy finish. Past prime with little room for further improvement. Serve at cool, red wine temperature and enjoy now! Really smooth and pleasantly mature on the 2nd day. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Finca Villacreces can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2022 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a beautiful, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Langhe DOC in Piedmont that arrived at LCBO outlets across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 6th - with bottles still available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Vietti, a prestigious and historic estate winery situated in the village of Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo wine region of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It was established in the 1800s by Carlo Vietti, then taken over in 1917 by his son, Mario, who transformed the family farm into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high-quality wines.

In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, took Vietti to new heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture. The ambition, foresight, and pioneering spirit of Alfredo helped create in 1961 one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione, followed a few years later by their first Roero Arneis. Matched with artist labels in 1974, the Vietti brand became an icon and standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of the time.

In the 1980s, the winery was taken over by Mario Cordero, the son-in-law of Luciana and Alfredo. And in the 1990s, Mario was joined by the son of Luciana and Alfredo, Luca Currado Vietti, and Luca's wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

Today, Vietti is owned by the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2016 and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Vietti family is no longer involved in this project as both Luca and Elena left in 2023, the Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins. Their values are based on, among other things, territory, craftsmanship, quality research, human capital, and sustainability. The place where the vision of wine and the vineyard is an expression of the intelligence of the hands, and that preserving the craftsmanship is essential to wine and its production. The Vietti manifesto is to always improve, respect nature's own pace, take care of tradition and of those that help safeguard it, and cultivate sustainability. The aim is to obtain identity-based wines capable of withstanding the test of time.

Like the 2020 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo I enjoyed in 2024, this red wine is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites, mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. After harvesting, the grapes were brought to the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation for about 3–4 weeks at a controlled temperature between 28°C–32°C, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel was vinified and aged separately until the lots that will be used for Langhe Nebbiolo and those that will continue to age for Barolo, are selected. The parcels for Langhe Nebbiolo were aged for about 18–20 months in barriques and large barrels, then blended in steel prior to bottling. This wine is considered to be a "second Barolo", and the name "Perbacco" comes from the Italian exclamation "Per Bacco!", which translates roughly to "By Bacchus", the Roman god of wine. Perbacco symbolizes wine, pleasure, and celebration.

The 2022 growing season is noted for being the driest and among the hottest in Piedmont's history. The region was already lacking water and barely received any precipitation between December 2021 and the beginning of May 2022. The arid conditions persisted through summer, which resulted in small vines producing small clusters. Vital in this vintage were soil and canopy management in order to preserve any moisture and protect the grapes from sunburn. From a vintage with slightly reduced yields and, given the climatic conditions, surprising balance and acidity, let's see how this 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $42.95
100% Nebbiolo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal pretty and gently perfumed aromas of rose floral, red cherry, and sweet spices with hints of orange peel and leafy herb. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite firmly structured with lovely red cherry, rose floral, sweet spice, cinnamon, and savoury earth flavours with leafy herb accents. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the structured tannins have some youthful grip. Subtle spice notes on the mid-palate, while savoury earth notes take over on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now with protein, but I would tuck this away for 3-4 years and enjoy to the early-mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and organic Super Tuscan that is predominantly Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles surprisingly still available for purchase!

It is produced by Tenuta Sette Ponti, a highly-regarded, family-owned winery situated in Tuscany, between the cities of Florence and Arezzo, Italy. The history of the property begins in 1935, when Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta planted the first vineyards on the property to celebrate having taken over the Ethiopian Empire. It was called "Vigna dell'Impero", or Vineyard of the Empire, and is home to an ancient clone of Sangiovese that is the only one of its kind.

In the 1950s, architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri acquired the first 55 hectares of land directly from Princesses Margherita and Maria Cristina of Savoy-Aosta, daughters of Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta, and dedicated himself to the production of winegrowing and olive oil. The grapes were sold to producers until the 1990s, when Antonio Moretti Cuseri, son of Alberto, who had a passion for wine since he was a young boy, took over the family business in 1997.

Antonio worked alongside the best viticulturists and oenologists to evaluate the suitability of the land for the production of quality wines, although the area was already declared one of the most suitable areas for wine production in Tuscany in 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. By 1998, Antonio stopped selling his grapes to other producers and established Tenuta Sette Ponti, or Seven Bridges, in tribute to the seven bridges that extend over the Arno River on the road from Florence to Arezzo. That same year, he made his first wine - Crognolo.

In 2018, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family, Amedeo, son of Antonio, joined the family business to continue to represent the company's strong values and bring a fresh and new vision. The philosophy at Tenuta Sette Ponti is based on quality, research, long-lasting knowledge, age-old customs, respect for the land and its balance, while also keeping pace with modern agricultural and oenological practices. Tenuta Sette Ponti has an incredible love for vines and is known for making exceedingly high quality, organic wines in line with Tuscan traditions.

The Crognolo is named after a wild plant Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) that grows in abundance on the estate. This red wine was first made in 1998 and strongly represents the vision of its creator, with an eye to the valorization of the territory and to innovation achieved through traditions that evolve. The base of this wine is Sangiovese from clones from the oldest and historically significant Vigna dell'Impero vineyard. This historic varietal clone was grafted in vineyards with stony soils rich in marl. The majority of the Sangiovese used to craft Crognolo is made up of only the best Sangiovese grapes from these vines.

Similarly to the 2018 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is predominantly Sangiovese (95%) with a splash of Merlot completing the blend. The southern-facing vineyard is planted at 250 metres above sea level. The vines are 30+ years old and trained using the spurred cordon system. After undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12–14 months in French oak barriques. It was then matured for 6 months in bottle prior to release.

While the 2022 growing season in Tuscany began with a cool and unusually dry winter, which transitioned into a warm spring, the vintage was marked by the scorching hot summer and extreme drought. The conditions in summer were so dry that some producers chose to irrigate to help protect their younger vines. However, vineyards situated near forests or up hills were able to keep cool, with welcoming rain finally arriving at the end of July. Further rainfall at the end of August to the beginning of September proved to be the vintage's saving grace. Although the drought conditions unsurprisingly reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high quality. From a good vintage with slightly higher-than-usual alcohol levels, let's see how this 2022 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2022 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. A touch reductive off the top, followed by a medium-high intensity nose of ripe red cherry aromas mingling with clove, savoury oak, and earthy minerals, plus hints of sweet spices. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has lovely red & black cherry, clove, oak spice, sweet spice, and earthy mineral replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the medium-firm tannins are well-structured with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Touch spicy with the alcohol peeking through ever so slightly on the mid-palate, while the exceptionally long finish is dry, savoury, and minerally. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

Tenuta Sette Ponti's iconic Oreno is available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range of wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Boutari Naoussa Red 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Xinomavro (ksee-NOH-mah-vroh) from Naoussa in northern Greece. A perennial favourite, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by one of Greece's most historic and influential wineries - Boutari. It was established by Ioannis Boutaris with a winery bearing his name in 1879 in Naoussa, Macedonia in northern Greece. By 1906, Mr. Boutaris built the city's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

In the mid-1930s, Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, took over the reins of the family winery and began exporting their wines to export markets, while also opening a second winery in Naoussa. In 1968, Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris, the two sons of Stelios took over the winery and propelled it to new heights and shaped it into what it is today, including a shift to focus on viticulture. In 1978, Boutari inaugurated their new, state-of-the-art winery in Stenimachos, Naoussa, which remains the centre of their production, ageing, and bottling processes to this day. Boutari's success culminated with the Naoussa Boutari label making Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2013 list.

In 2022, Boutari Wineries turned a new chapter when it became a member of Sterner Stenhus Greece group. While Boutari is now under new ownership, the vision for the winery is to respect the historic name that is synonymous with Greek wine, while also promising to continue the long-standing tradition of Boutari wineries and develop them further.

The wineries of Boutari are located in Greece's most important wine-producing regions, which allows the producer to explore the potential and specificities of each region and to highlight both the region itself and its varieties. Arguably, Naoussa is the most important Greek wine region and Boutari's headquarters are in Naoussa, a region of Macedonia on the eastern edge of Vermio. Boutari's journey began in Naoussa, and with it, Greek wine was introduced to the world. As a key player in Greek winemaking and one of the country's most historic wineries, viticulture in the Naoussa of northern Greece is deeply rooted in their past. Boutari was instrumental in the preservation of the indigenous Xinomavro grape, as well as the promotion and recognition of the variety and the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zone of Naoussa. All of this was achieved by producing excellent and historically significant wines.

Boutari has also taken steps to introduce sustainability practices by optimizing the vineyard and wine processes in order to produce wines of endearing taste, identity, and character. In their vineyards, Boutari applies organic farming principles, while respecting their environmental footprint. Moreover, they treat the vine as part of the ecosystem and focus on strengthening its natural defences and resilience.

First bottled at the beginning of the 20th century, this red wine is the most emblematic wine of modern Greek wine history. This wine is also one of the first Greek red bottled PDO wines and constitutes a landmark for red wines in Greece. Like the previous vintage - the lovely 2021 Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro that I enjoyed last year - this red wine is also crafted with 100% Xinomavro, although it doesn't mention this anywhere on the front label and is stated in quite small letters on the back label. To vinify this wine, the grapes were cold-macerated for 24 hours, with a small percentage bled off for rosé production. It underwent a controlled alcoholic fermentation with selected yeast strains at 20°C–27°C, with gentle extraction with few pumpovers, and was followed by malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 12 months in 5th- and 6th-use French oak barrels, and filtered using sheet filtration prior to bottling.

The growing season in Naoussa in 2022 began intensely cold, with intervals of rain, which resulted in increased bud fertility and the ensuing increase in yields. March and April were colder and wetter than average, with a later bud break, while temperatures returned to typical by early May. The summer ripening season was mostly mild, except for a heatwave in the first half of August, while September began with notable rainfall, along with typically high temperatures during the day and low temperatures at night. From a vintage that produced very good to excellent results, let's see how this 2022 Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI NAOUSSA RED 2022 - PDO Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece (#23218) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Xinomavro has a medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy initially, offering an enticing mix of sun-dried tomato, rose petals, spice, ripe red cherry, and savoury earth aromas accented with leafy herbs. The medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe tannins and fresh acidity supporting the red cherry, rose floral, sun-dried tomato, and leafy herb flavours in a nicely balanced profile. More savoury with earth, cedary oak, and spice notes on the mid-palate, alongside a crisp mouthfeel and gently chalky textured tannins. Sun-dried tomato, cherry, and rose florals taper to earthy notes on the long, savoury, and mineral-tinged finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

Read More

Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge 2022 (Southwest France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend of Tannat and Merlot that is brand-new to the LCBO. It arrived both online and in-store as part of last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 22nd.

It is produced by Maison Fontan, an historic, family-owned wine estate located in the comune of Noulens, within the Gers department of southwestern France. The Fontan family's story begins when the first generation moved to Maubet Farm in Noulens in 1907.

The family farmed this land for 4 generations, eventually moving from polyculture farming to organized viticulture in the 1980s thanks to the passion and initiatives of Aline and Jean-Claude Fontan, the third generation of the family. Aline and Jean-Claude also played a pivotal role by helping instigate the development of Côtes de Gascogne wines.

In 2001, siblings Sylvain and Nadège Fontan, the son and daughter of Aline and Jean-Claude, took over the reins of the vineyard and continued to develop the estate. Sylvain is the winemaker and cellar master, and by enhancing the grapes he makes a range of Côtes de Gascogne wines and Armagnacs. Nadège handles marketing and sales, and ensures that their vineyard products are available at wine merchants and the best restaurants.

Formerly Domaine de Maubet, the estate was rebranded in 2021 as Maison Fontan. The house which their great-grandparents moved to is more than just a vineyard - it is a place where people live, come together and work, and where the natural world is listened to and respected. Nestled in the middle of vines, the traditional Gascon half-timbered building welcomes visitors with open arms and a warm embrace, and is a place where people feel good.

Today, Sylvain and Nadège continue down the pathway forged by their great-grandparents with immense pride and unfailing courage. The siblings also have passion and respect for their forebears and the natural environment that surrounds them. With the elegance of their vines heralding sophisticated wines and eau-de-vie, the entire team at Maison Fontan is also focused on conserving the ecosystem, taking great care, and innovating. Maison Fontan is the hallmark of a family identity with shared and continuously upheld values.

Maison Fontan has always practiced sustainable winegrowing, while common sense is de rigueur, and respect is inherent. The family also respects nature and the environment, and has the belief that if they nourish the soil to the right extent, and if they take care of it, it will give their vines the best grapes. The family also believes in being thorough and mindful during all the phases of production, from soil to glass, in order to make a safe, appealing, and carefully-controlled product of consistently high quality.

This red wine is from their "Les Tattoo" range of wines which are original, daring, and bold. The Tattoo wines combine local grape varietals with innovative winemaking methods to produce gourmet wines that may come as a surprise. This particular red wine is crafted using a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Merlot which were grown on clay-limestone and highly-compacted sandy/silty soil. After harvesting the grapes, they were destalked and placed into vats for 5 days of maceration. The grapes were fermented between 25°C–30°C, depending on the vintage, with one pumpover and two rack and returns. The juice is run off before malolactic fermentation, and is judged and tasted daily before finally undergoing filtration and kept in vat until bottling.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southwest of France featured black frosts, violent hailstorms, and severe summer drought. In spite of these challenges, the result was a significantly small harvest but with excellent quality. Let's see how this 2022 Tannat & Merlot from Côtes de Gascogne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MAISON FONTAN TATTOO T&M ROUGE 2022 - IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest, France (#43894) (D) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 50/50 blend of Tannat and Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is ripe and fruit forward with plummy, dark fruit, blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and currant aromas with hints of licorice. The medium-full bodied palate is dry-ish with plummy, black cherry, and cassis flavours with touches of spice and mineral adding a savoury component. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside supple, rounded, and mildly textured tannins. Comes off a little sweet, but finishes crisp and dry with black cherry, cassis, and a lingering minerality. The finish length is very good. Crafted in a crowd-pleasing style. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Fontan can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

Read More

Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2024 and Hedgehog Single Vineyard Xinomavro 2022 (Greece) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, vegan-friendly wines from Greece that arrived at the LCBO last month. The Xinomavro arrived in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Malagouzia arrived in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both wines are readily available across Ontario.

Both of these wines are produced by Alpha Estate, a highly-regarded winery situated in the Amyndeon region of Florina, in Northwestern Macedonia of Greece. It was established in 1997 by experienced viticulturist Makis Mavridis, and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis. They gained many years of experience and had passion in their respective fields before becoming business partners and creating their own wines from vineyards planted in Amyndeon.

The modern winery of Alpha Estate is now run by the next generation of the families, Angeliki Iatridou and Emorfili Mavridou, daughters of Angelos and Makis. Together, they carry on the knowledge and passion for winemaking, while respecting tradition and evolving to participate in Alpha Estate's common vision. With a 220-hectare privately-owned vineyard with a unique ecosystem situated in Amyndeon, they respect nature and use the most recent international standards in eco-friendly and sustainable farming practices and winemaking. The soul of their work is the team of people that contribute every day to the dream, to craft wines with professional know-how and experience throughout each stage, from vineyard to production to promotion.

Alpha Estate's winemaking facility is located at the heart of the vineyard, thereby allowing the grapes to arrive at the winery upon harvesting in the shortest amount of time. Furthermore, the grapes are harvested during the coolest hours of the day and transported to the winery in special refrigerators, which allows the grapes' organoleptic characteristics to be protected and shows the great respect that Alpha Estate has for grapes. The modern winemaking facility was designed to allow the grapes to move throughout the winery by using gravity, which allows for minimum possible stress on the raw material. The winery was constructed in the mid-2000s using highly inactive and neutral materials in order to create a completely neutral atmospheric condition inside the winery, which helps protect the quality of the grape, must, and wine.

This Malagouzia was grown in their Turtles vineyard, on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia, and named "Turtles" because freshwater turtles are commonly found in the nearby lakes and wetlands. The privately-owned 220-hectare vineyard is situated at 620–710 metres above sea level, which is among the highest vineyards in Greece, and planted on sandy – sandy clay soil over limestone, with excellent drainage. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested on September 14th, destemmed, and optically sorted. After undergoing light crushing, the grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, with skin contact. The wine remained in contact with its fine lees for 2 months, with regular stirring.

The Xinomavro was grown by Alpha Estate's founder, Makis Mavridis, and crafted by winemaker Angelos Iatridis. The grapes were grown at Mavridis' privately-owned Hedgehog vineyard on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia. The vineyard is named "Hedgehog" because of the hedgehogs that are commonly found in the area, and is planted between 620–710 metres above sea level, with northern exposure to the sun and facing Lake Petron and Mount Voras. The grapes were brought to the winery and destemmed. Without crushing, the grapes were cold-soaked with skin contact, and underwent alcoholic fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures while maintaining contact sue lie for 8 months, with regular stirring. It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by maturation in bottle for 12 months.

Let's see how these two fantastic wines from Northwestern Macedonia in Greece are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ALPHA ESTATE TURTLES SINGLE VINEYARD MALAGOUZIA 2024 - Vegan, PGI Florina, Greece (#32161) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Malagouzia has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers an elegant mix of leesy, limestone mineral, lemon citrus, and grapefruit aromas flecked with spring flowers, herbs, peach, and tropical fruit. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is dense and impressively structured with crunchy lemon citrus, stony mineral, spice, grapefruit, and herbal flavours nuanced with peach and floral notes. It has crisp, lively, and well-structured acidity, along with a fine, gently chalky textured mouthfeel. Juicy with lemon citrus notes tapering to stony and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG SINGLE VINEYARD XINOMAVRO 2022 - Vegan, PDO Amyndeon, Greece (#259762) (XD) - $29.95
Clean and open, this has a medium-high intensity nose of tomato leaf mingling red cherry, dried rose floral, savoury earth, mineral, licorice, and sandalwood aromas that pleasantly evolve in the glass. The mid-weighted palate is dry and gently spicy with ripe red fruited notes of plum, cherry, tomato leaf, licorice, dried rose floral layered over savoury earth and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, juicy, and lemony acidity, while the supple, textured tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. The tomato and red fruit notes give way to savoury and earthy minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alpha Estate are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

Read More

Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG that made its latest arrival at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 8th.

It is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned wine company with deep roots in Tuscany. The company was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence in 1959 and grew up in the fashion business. However, he found his true calling in wine and in 1984 he purchased Castello di Bossi: a project that turned from a passion into a home and destiny. Success followed, and this hobby became his life, which resulted in further acquisitions in Montalcino and beyond, within Italy. His wines garnered critical acclaim and rewarded his vision, which was based upon rigour, terroir, and style.

Today, Bacci Wines aims to be the most accomplished expression of Tuscan wine. They interpret the region's great appellations with a personal style, and offer wines for an audience that seeks quality, identity, and refinement. They have over 190 hectares of vineyards across their estates, each of which is cultivated organically and powered by sustainable energy. One of their more innovative ventures is Talamo a Mare - an underwater cellar located at a depth of 35 metres that is dedicated to the maturation of red wine.

Marco continues to lead Bacci Wines, but he is also assisted by his children in the pursuit of a clear goal: to produce organic wines of the highest quality, in the name of sustainability and oenological excellence. As a lover of nature, Marco also supports environmental protection projects and contributes to the preservation of the black rhino in Africa. In 2019, entrepreneur and innovator Serg Bell joined the company as a minority partner and shares Marco's vision for wines that combine excellence, sustainability, and international openness. The philosophy at Bacci Wines is simple and rigourous - to craft organic wines of the highest quality, while fully respecting the environment and tradition.

Tenuta di Renieri is one of several holdings of Bacci Wines. The estate is located in the heart of the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southern part of Chianti Classico, and within an area renowned for its Sangiovese and Chianti Classico wines. Tenuta di Renieri borders the prestigious lands of Castello di Bossi, and covers an area of approximately 60 hectares, 22 hectares of which are cultivated with vines. The estate specializes in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva wines, while delivering an authentic expression of the territory and standing out for crafting superior quality wines.

The south-facing vineyards at Tenuta di Renieri enjoy a privileged position, which ensures that the grapes receive perfect sun exposure and optimal ripening conditions, resulting in wines that are ideally balanced between freshness and structure. The soils at the estate are extremely varied and range from yellow clay to tuff (weathered volcanic rock), which is an ideal combination for viticulture. Furthermore, the subsoil on the estate is rich in rounded stones, which act as natural drainage and ensures optimal water management, while also contributing to the health of the vines and the superior quality of the bunches. This particular subsoil also forces the vines to go deep into soil in the search for nutrients, picking up minerality along the way. It is this harmonious fusion between terroir and viticultural practices that makes the wines of Tenuta di Renieri an authentic celebration of the tradition and excellence of Chianti Classico.

Like the 2020 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted with 100% Sangiovese that was organically grown around the estate in Chianti Classico subzone of Castelnuovo Berardenga. The vines are situated at 300 metres above sea level and planted on tuff, yellow clay soil. The wine was traditionally vinified and matured in barriques for 12 months.

In 2022, the growing season in Tuscany was the warmest ever recorded, with average temperatures 1.3°C higher than the mean period from 1991 to 2020. Furthermore, the Castelnuovo Berardenga subzone is warmer than other UGAs. Weather anomalies were more significant during winter, spring, and late fall, instead of the crucial summer months of the growing cycle. While maximum temperatures stayed relatively high throughout the summer, heat spikes were few and short. Pre-harvest conditions in September were favourable in Chianti Classico as temperatures dropped considerably in most townships. Prolonged drought characterized much of the season, until significant rainfall between late August and the beginning of September rehydrated the berries. From a surprisingly positive vintage, let's see how this 2022 Chianti Classico Annata is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2022 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $24.95
This organic Sangiovese has a clean, medium-high intensity nose with an attractive mix of dark red fruited and spicy aromas with notes of black cherry, cinnamon, clove, and sweet spices accented with savoury dark earth and bramble, plus whiffs of dark minerals. The medium+ bodied palate is ripe with black and sour cherry mingling with savoury dark earth, mineral, spice, cinnamon, and clove flavours. It is well-structured with crisp, food-friendly acidity and somewhat youthfully grippy, and chalky textured tannins. Very tasty with cherry, clove, savoury dark minerals, and earth on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci estates can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Domaine Skouras Grande Cuvée Agiorgitiko 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Agiorgitiko from Greece that made its debut at the LCBO earlier this month in the November 8th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive - with many bottles still available for purchase both online and in 20 stores in the Greater Toronto and Ottawa areas.

It is produced by Domaine Skouras, a well-known and highly-regarded winery that was established by George Skouras within the small village of Pyrgela, on the outskirts of his hometown of Argos in Nemea of northeastern Peloponnese. After studying oenology in Dijon (Burgundy), George had a long-standing vision to create a winery in his homeland with the goal of producing high-quality wines - a vision that was realized in 1986.

Today, Domaine Skouras resides in the highlands of Argolida, within the village of Malandreni in Nemea. The ultra-modern winery was built in 2004 in the Nemea winegrowing zone, which is Greece's largest and possibly the most exciting Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for red wines. The new facility offered greater capacity and cutting-edge infrastructure, and was carefully designed to preserve the authenticity and identity of the wines. The winery is situated among vineyards in an area that is blessed with ideal conditions for viticulture, especially for the indigenous Agiorgitiko.

The family-owned winery continues to be energetically and passionately run by George and his wife, Ourania. They are also joined by their son and daughter, Dimitris and Stella, respectively, who share their vision for the Domaine. Dimitris studied Viticulture and Oenology in France, while Stella is a graduate of Economics and Marketing studies in Scotland.

At Domaine Skouras, the philosophy is based on every wine expressing a clear and consistent philosophy, which is distilled into four key principles: purity, varietal clarity, expression of the mesoclimate, true reflection of the terroir. The vineyard team works to produce exceptional grapes with an unwavering and uncompromising dedication, and constant observation. Technology, for the Skouras team, is simply a tool for precision and control, as true winemaking happens with minimal intervention, and by respecting the grape, the land, and the passage of time.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Agiorgitiko that was grown at their vineyard in Corinthia at the high altitude of 3,412 feet (1,039 metres), from vines averaging 30 years old and planted on red clay soils rich in minerals. The vineyard was first planted in 1970, while the first vintage for this wine was 1989. After harvesting the grapes in October, they arrived at the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation and extraction in stainless steel vats, with post-fermentation extraction occurring for 14 days. This was followed by full malolactic fermentation in oak barriques. The wine was matured for 12 months in new French barriques, with 4 of these months in the presence of light lees, then underwent further maturation in bottle for 6 months in their cellar prior to release. Let's see how this 2022 Agiorgitiko from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE SKOURAS GRANDE CUVÉE AGIORGITIKO 2022 - PDO Nemea, Greece (#94706) (XD) - $42.95
The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal plummy, raspberry, and blackberry aromas with a sheen of woody oak, followed by minerals, savoury earth, and dark red berries. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry with ripe plum, raspberry, cherry, sandalwood, dark red berry, mineral, and spice flavours supported by fresh, crisp, and lively acidity. The mid-palate is crunchy with fine-grained and well-structured tannins. There's some youthful grip on the back-palate. Savoury, smoky, and stony mineral notes linger on the long, crisp finish. Enjoyable now, but will be even better after a few years in the cellar. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Many other fine wines by Domaine Skouras are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Cap Classique Brut Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2022 and Pat's Garden Reserve 2020 (South Africa) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from one of my favourite South African wine producers - Ken Forrester Wines. Both of these terrific wines arrived at the LCBO recently, with the red wine making its debut at the LCBO in the September 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the sparkling wine landed in the October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Ken Forrester Wines was established in 1993 by Ken Forrester and his wife, Teresa, after they acquired at a public auction a vacant and derelict farm and homestead that was situated on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, in the heart of Stellenbosch, South Africa's premier wine growing region. The site is one of the oldest farms in the Cape, with a long history that dates back to 1689, and the first vines were planted in 1694. The farm changed hands a number of times over the years, eventually falling on hard times in the early 1990s and finding itself up for auction.

The vision at Ken Forrester Wines is for sustainable farming - to improve the lot of their employees by growing their own business, and thereby providing maximum job opportunities in a market that is desperate for support. In the vineyard, Ken Forrester farms sustainably without the use of herbicides and pesticides. They also till the soil, prune, thin bunches and leaves, and harvest by hand. With this additional employment, they hope that it goes some way to improving the quality of life in their community, and they know that if every community looked after their own, no one would go wanting. This is their proposal, and consequently, each bottle is a victory and represents a small change – for the better – in someone's life. Additionally, Ken Forrester Wines are certified for Integrity & Sustainability by the South African Wine and Spirit Board.

At Ken Forrester Wines, the winemaking philosophy is based on managing their vineyards in a sustainable manner, along with a workplace environment and work ethic that should be a shining light in the industry. They have several ranges of wines that are handcrafted and individually made to complement a wide variety of cuisines and provide excellent value. The Pat's Garden is part of their Reserve Wine Range, where the team at Ken Forrester is solely responsible for the cultivation of the vines and selection of the fruit, most of which come from their family property in Stellenbosch, just 5 kilometres from the cool Atlantic and in the sheltered lee of the majestic Helderberg Mountain. The sparkling wine is part of Ken Forrester's Cellar Exclusives Range - a collection of special and limited parcels of wines.

An interesting note about the red wine is that while it used to be known as "Pat's Garden Merlot", it was always blended with 8–12% Cabernet Franc. The wine laws in South Africa allow for wines to be labelled as a single varietal wine so long as the blend does not exceed 15% of other varieties. The team at Ken Forrester began doing some experimentation by blending the 4 traditional Bordeaux varieties and with the 2018 vintage they launched the Pat's Garden Reserve wine.

The 2020 growing season in South Africa featured moderate to warm growing conditions, which continued into late autumn, while the 2022 vintage was one of the wettest and coldest in recent memory. There was a sudden heat spike just before harvest in 2022, but fall was generally cool and moderate. Both vintages were rated excellent, so let's see how this 2020 red and 2022 sparkling wine from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEN FORRESTER SPARKLEHORSE CAP CLASSIQUE BRUT SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC 2022 - Traditional Method, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#32030) (D) - $29.95
Aged on its lees for 20 months, the elegantly fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers lovely aromas of autolytic, toasty, leesy, biscuit, and honey characters surrounding a core of lemon citrus and golden apple. It has a finely beaded mousse and racy, gently tangy acidity on the medium+ bodied palate with delicious autolytic, biscuit, toasty, lemon citrus, and apple flavours, plus touches of honey in a fairly dry profile. Juicy on the mid-palate, while the long finish is savoury with leesy mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEN FORRESTER PAT'S GARDEN RESERVE 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#45169) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 44% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is well-balanced with complex aromas of ripe red & black fruits, currant, raspberry, blackberry, cassis, oak spice, cocoa, savoury wet earth, and dried herbs with touches of leafy green herb notes. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and slightly chewy with more ripe red & black fruits, currant, cassis, raspberry, blackberry, oak spice, savoury wet earth, cocoa, and dried herb flavours. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the elegant tannins are smooth, refined, and gently grippy on the back palate. Impeccably balanced throughout with red & black fruits mingling with savoury wet earth, oak spice, and smoky minerals on the long finish. Has the stuffing to age gracefully for at least another 5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Ken Forrester is widely available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a consistently delicious Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia that returned to Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 27th.

It is produced by Wakefield Wines, also known as Taylors Wines in their home market of Australia. The estate winery was established in 1969 in Australia's Clare Valley by Bill Taylor Sr. and his two sons, Bill Taylor Jr. and John Taylor. They acquired some land near the Wakefield river in Clare Valley and discovered fossilized seahorses during an excavation - elements which exist as part of their current branding.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by the third generation of the Taylor family — brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton. After 25 years as Managing Director, Mitchell stepped into the role of Chairman of the Board a few months ago, thus allowing him to focus more on vision, succession, and guiding the next generation of leadership. Justin focuses more on the Export market and Global Key Accounts, while Clinton is the General Manager - Winery Operations.

As one of Australia's most renowned and respected wine producers, the philosophy at Wakefield has always rested on the principle that the finest wines are those made with the greatest dedication and care, while also respecting the fruit. The Taylor family is committed to both the land and sea, with sustainability a core pillar with a goal of applying the best practiced principles in environmental management to enhance sustainable business activities and products. As a family-owned company, they are committed to ensuring that they operate in a responsible and sustainable manner, thus setting up the future for generations to come.

Wakefield has several lines of wines, and this particular red wine is from their Jaraman range. The name "Jaraman" is derived from an indigenous term meaning "seahorse" and is a nod to the discovery of fossilized seahorses in the Clare Valley. The premium range of Jaraman wines celebrates Australia's iconic wine regions, which provide great diversity in soil and terroir. With the Jaraman range, the Taylor family searches for parcels of extraordinary fruit to craft wines that showcase their distinctive regional characteristics and style. The fruit for Jaraman wines is sourced from celebrated Australian wine regions that are renowned for the particular variety - Clare Valley and Coonawarra in the case of this Cabernet Sauvignon. When crafting these wines, the winemakers ensure that rhe distinct regional characteristics of each variety are preserved and enhanced, with the fruit as the star and any winemaking influencing the supporting act. Jaraman wines showcase the skill and dedication of our winemakers, while maintaining their philosophy of respecting the fruit.

While this red is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is composed of 51% Clare Valley and 49% Coonawarra fruit, and is almost identical in composition to the 2021 Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon that I enjoyed a couple of years ago. After undergoing traditional vinification, the parcels of fruit were blended and matured for up to 14 months in French oak barrels (10% new and remaining in 1 to 2 year old), followed by fining, minimal filtration, and then bottling.

The growing season in Clare Valley in 2022 featured mild and sunny days without rain or humidity. It was an idyllic season of uninterrupted and stunningly beautiful weather, which resulted in a vintage of both quality and quality. In Coonawarra, it was a cool season with good yields and an extended ripening period due to the mild autumn days and cool nights, resulting in wines with great varietal definition, including depth of colour. Cabernet Sauvignon was a predictable standout in Coonawarra in this vintage. Let's see how this 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - South Australia (#142398) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit from both Clare Valley and Coonawarra has a fresh, lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that is cool and minty with red & black fruits, cassis, and currant aromas, plus shadings of smoky oak, savoury earth, leafy herbs, and spice notes. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with red & black fruited currant, cassis, raspberry, and blackberry flavours in a slightly brambly profile, plus leafy herbs, mint, and savoury oak notes adding a savoury component. It has crisp, fresh, and slightly tangy acidity, along with smooth, finely textured tannins with supple grip. Minty herb notes give way to savoury oak flavours on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A wide assortment of Wakefield Wines are available at the LCBO, and can also be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2022 (Marche) - Wine Review

After taking some time away to deal with a personal family matter, tonight's white wine review is an exceptional Old Vines Verdicchio from the Castelli di Jesi DOC in Marche that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a family winery that was established by Gino Umani Ronchi in 1957 after he set up a small farm within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of Verdicchio Classico country in Le Marche. The history of Umani Ronchi is one of people, vineyards, terroirs, and values. In 1968, the property was acquired by Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law Massimo Bernetti, and it was reconstituted as a wine estate. Massimo oversaw the winery and focused his efforts on expanding market share abroad, increasing production through the addition of Rosso Conero wines, and increasing the area under vines. Over time, Umani Ronchi would extend to over 200 hectares of vines between Le Marche and Abruzzo.

In the early 1990s, Massimo Bernetti was joined by his son Michele, who had recently graduated in economics and business, and completed an internship in London where he worked in the sales department of Umani Ronchi's UK distributor. It was at this time that Massimo decided to further probe advanced cultivation and winemaking techniques, thanks in part to collaborations with experts from major university study centres.

Michele joined Umani Ronchi with his sights set beyond regional borders and decided to partner with Giacomo Tachis, the skilled winemaker known for celebrated wines such as Solaia and Sassicaia. This collaboration resulted in the study of international varieties and how to integrate them into the local territory, and eventually led to an award-winning wine that brought Umani Ronchi into the national and international spotlight. Michele and the technical team are constantly fine-tuning their wines with the goal of crafting wines of uncompromising quality and the ability to stand out. In 2009, this Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio won Gambero Rosso's award for White of the Year. For 20 years, Umani Ronchi has also been a member of the Istituto del Vino di Qualità – Grandi Marchi, an organization that brings together 18 of Italy's most important wine families.

Today, Umani Ronchi is a true international brand and a symbol of Italian excellence. The people behind Umani Ronchi — the human capital — are an asset whose value is inestimable and without which businesses couldn't build their present and future. They promote human well-being and protecting the environment, while innovation, improving production processes, training and skill development are distinctive features of their work culture and identity.

Umani Ronchi's philosophy for sustainability is based on green viticulture. They have a strong ethical approach with deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity, and is manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management and the use of organic fertilizers. Umani Ronchi embraces sustainability in their choice of materials by using low-impact packaging and light glass bottles to reduce Carbon Dioxide emissions, as well as synthetic corks produced from sugar cane, which are 100% recyclable. They also use photovoltaic energy for about half of the winery's annual needs to conserve energy, and reuse the water from the cellar for irrigation. Their thinking and actions are based on ecological and sustainable values.

It is crafted with 100% Verdicchio, from 4 hectares of vines that were planted in the early 1970s in the heart of Verdicchio country, on the left bank of the Esino river. The vineyard is situated at about 250–300 metres above sea level, on an east-facing hillside, where the soil is very deep and fairly fresh, with clay loam composition, conditions which are ideal for Verdicchio vines. The vines were trained using the Double Guyot (arched canes) system. The grapes were hand-harvested and collected in boxes from the end of September to the first ten days of October. After lightly pressing the grapes, the prime must was rapidly cooled and then goes through static decantation. It was fermented in steel tanks over 10–15 days at a controlled temperature between 16°C and 18°C, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation in order to preserve freshness and acidity. The wine was aged for about 10 months in contact with its lees in concrete tanks, followed by a further 6 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2022 growing season in Marche was marked by drought and extreme heat in the vineyards. However, it was the above average rainfall in September that brought the drought index back to normal levels and turned the season into an almost cool one. From a good vintage that was beyond all expectations, let's see how this 2023 Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASAL DI SERRA VECCHIE VIGNE VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2022 - DOC, Marche, Italy (#98111) (XD) - $27.95
Elegant and refined, the medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of white citrus, lime, stony mineral, pear-apple, and almond aromas with herbally accents. It's medium+ bodied and dry with lovely structure and clean acidity that supports the strony mineral driven palate. Citrus, lime, pear-apple flavours are joined by touches of chamomile and spice to add further complexity and intrigue. Juicy, well-structured, and finely textured on the mid-palate. Citrus, lime, and chamomile notes give way to an exceptionally long, stony mineral finish. Ideal with seafood, but will also pair well with poultry, pasta, and vegetarian fare. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Many other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Inniskillin Illuvia Cabernet Franc 2022 (Niagara-on-the-Lake) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, cool-climate, and single vineyard Cabernet Franc from Niagara that was launched in July to celebrate Inniskillin's 50th Anniversary and is available for purchase direct from the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, as well as online at Great Estates Niagara.

On July 31st, Inniskillin Wines celebrated its 50th Anniversary as Canada's oldest winery. While Inniskillin was granted the first winery license since prohibition in 1975, thus making it Canada's first estate winery, Inniskillin's roots go back much further. The winery is named after the Inniskilling Fusiliers of Ireland, who travelled overseas to help protect the Canadian land that the estate resides on from American troops in the War of 1812.

Inniskillin Wines was founded by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, who became instant pioneers in Canadian winemaking after taking big risks and earning many firsts in the Canadian wine history. Some of these firsts include planting Canada's original Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Riesling grapes. Their greatest innovation was harvesting the Vidal grape to serve as the foundation for Canada's first Icewine, which was followed by shocking the world when their 1989 Vidal Blanc Icewine won the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vin Expo France in 1991.

Inniskillin’s Head Winemaker at the Niagara Estate, Nicholas Gizuk, says that "If you asked anyone in France in the 80s if they knew Canadians made wine, they would have said ‘No.' Donald and Karl were six years into building the estate, with no idea of what would happen. It was a huge risk that helped set the stage for the Canadian wine industry to compete with vineyards around the globe."

Today, Inniskillin is synonymous with Canadiana and part of a family of wineries owned by Arterra Wines Canada. As they look to the future, Inniskillin is ready to redefine what premium Canadian wine can be once again with innovative techniques and over 50 years of experience that focus on every aspect of from terroir to winemaking, to deliver high-quality wines that can only be made in Canada.

Nicholas Gizuk is part of a new generation of winemakers that stand on the shoulders of Donald and Karl. This new generation of winemakers are using the success of the last 50 years as the foundation for what’s next and believe that the next chapter will be even more exciting. There is a renewed focus on single vineyard expressions, and they're showcasing the incredible diversity of Canadian terroir through wines that are unmistakably Inniskillin.

To celebrate their anniversary, Inniskillin launched a new, premium range of wines called the "50th Anniversary Series". The range is made up of five single vineyard wines — this Illuvia, three other wines that will be covered in a separate post, and a Riesling Icewine. Each wine is available exclusively at Inniskillin and online at Great Estates Niagara.

This red wine is named Illuvia, from the Latin term 'alluvio' and means "the sediment deposited by flowing water" — silt, sand, clay, and gravel, a natural process that shaped the fertile terroir of Niagara-on-the-Lake and created the ideal conditions for exceptional winegrowing. It is crafted using 100% Cabernet Franc, from 30-year-old vines that were grown at Seeger Farms Vineyard, just across the road, north of Inniskillin, within the VQA Four Mile Creek appellation in Niagara-on-the-Lake. This vineyard site benefits from increased sunlight hours, wider spaced rows, and cool nights from the airflow by the river. After undergoing a 2-day cold soak to build colour and tannin structure, it was fermented at 28C for 12 days until dry, with co-inoculation for MLF (malolactic fermentation) completed alongside primary fermentation. The wine was racked to French oak barrels (25% new) and aged for 22 months to build structure and complexity. The final blend was composed of only the best barrels to showcase the beautiful terroir of this vineyard site. Only 300 cases were produced.

The growing season in 2022 began with a colder-than-normal January, which resulted in bud death and a lighter-than-normal crop during harvest. Summer was relatively warm and dry, while early precipitation in the fall helped maintain the vines without any stress going into harvest. In Niagara, it is notably the harvest season that tends to make or break the vintage. September began with typical conditions, without high humidity, while late September brought moderate precipitation in short bursts, which allowed maturity and ripening to happen with no stress to the vines. As conditions were ideal, the later-ripening varietals were allowed to hang to reach their full ripening potential. Harvest was relatively quick due to the lighter than normal crop. From a vintage that produced excellent quality overall, let's see how this 2022 Cabernet Franc from Niagara-on-the-Lake is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

INNISKILLIN ILLUVIA CABERNET FRANC 2022 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $48.89
This 100% Cabernet Franc has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that delivers clean red & black fruits, currant, and raspberry aromas nuanced with herbs, perfumed oak spices, plus touches of smoke and savoury earth adding further complexity. The medium-full to full-bodied palate is ripe with red & black fruits, currant, raspberry, oak spice, and herbal flavours in a slightly brambly profile. More savoury and smoky on the mid-palate, alongside crisp, well-balanced acidity, and ripe, well-structured, and very fine tannins. Gently grippy on the back palate. Tangy berry with savoury earth, and oak spice notes linger on the long, well-balanced finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 8-9 years. Score: 92+ pts

Read More

Brancaia N°2 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2021 Brancaia N°2 last year, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this excellent, organic Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maremma Toscana DOC in Italy that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Brancaia, a family-owned winery that was revived in 1981 by Swiss couple Brigitte and Bruno Widmer after they fell in love with each other and purchased an abandoned winery on the Brancaia hill in Castellina in Chianti. At the time, there were only four hectares of vines on the site. They believed that with its location on a hill, it should be possible to produce first-class wines here that reflect the character of the region. With the infrastructure and know-how of the Mazzei family, the Widmer family was able to move forward with the production of quality wine.

Today, Brancaia is a prominent and modern wine producing company. In addition to their property in Castellina, they also have estates in Radda and Maremma, with a combined 80 hectares of vineyards between the three estates. Brancaia is now run by Barbara Widmer, daughter of Brigitte & Bruno, and is supported by the entire family, including the third generation that is also now involved in smaller tasks involving the family business. Barbara has long been involved at the estate by participating in her first harvest in 1993, and began studying oenology in Switzerland in 1995.

The philosophy at Brancaia is based on a mission to craft wines of excellence that are deeply connected to the Tuscan terroir and guided by nature. Brancaia allows Tuscany to speak to them through its landscape and winemaking tradition, while listening attentively as nature shows them the way and allowing it to be expressed. As sustainability is a core value, Brancaia places respect for the environment and the community at the forefront in every action and decision. Each of their wines is born from a perfect balance between terroir, people, and nature.

The work at Brancaia also relies on human knowledge. Brancaia makes use of this knowledge and turns it into art. Each step from winegrowing, hand-harvesting, grape selection, and ageing in bottle is carried out with precision by the Brancaia team, with the goal of revealing the harmony and complexity of the wines. The winery is a multi-level structure that allows for the use of gravity to gently move the wine from one area to another, and largely avoids the use of pumps.

Brancaia has several wineries in Tuscany, with this particular wine coming from their Maremma estate, a vineyard which was acquired by the Widmer family in 1998. After acquiring this vineyard, Barbara took it on as her pet project to develop the vineyard further, and even dedicated her final thesis in oenology to it. Since that time, Barbara and the team have been cultivating their best coastal vineyards at this site in Maremma Toscana, with a special focus on international grape varieties on these sandy loam soil with clay interspersed to produce elegant wines with velvety tannins.

This red wine is crafted with pure Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown in Brancaia's own vineyards situated in the Tuscan coastal region of Maremma, in vineyards with west-to-southwest exposure to sun and situated between 75–175 metres above sea level. The vines are planted on loamy sandy soil, with two-thirds sand and one-third silt and clay, while the climate in this area is Mediterranean with very hot summers and very mild winters. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested over the last sixteen days of September and brought to the winery in Grosseto, sorted on the sorting table, then fermented at a controlled temperature of 28°C, with must contact for up to 18 days. The wine was matured for 12 months in used tonneaux, then aged in bottle for a few months prior to release.

The Tuscan wine region experienced a searingly hot growing season in 2022, but was largely very good. It began with a cool and unusually dry winter, followed by a warm spring, and then a scorching hot summer. Welcoming rains finally arrived at the end of July. While this was a drought year that reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high-quality, with some wines having slightly higher alcohol levels. Let's see how this 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon from Maremma Toscana is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BRANCAIA N°2 2022 - DOC Maremma Toscana, Italy (#28451) (XD) - $33.95
Certified organic, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is elegantly fragrant with an open, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of bright and ripe red cherry, currant, dried herbs, and savoury earth notes accented with rose petals, sweet spices, leather, and cinnamon. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and ripe with lovely red fruited cherry, currant, red licorice, sweet spice, and cinnamon flavours layered over savoury earth, leather, and dried herbs. It has crisp and racy, and slightly tangy acidity, while the smooth tannins have good structure and a fine, dusty texture. Gains grip on the back palate, while the finish is long and savoury with smoky mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

A couple of other lovely wines by Brancaia are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More