d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2021 (McLaren Vale) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely Grenache from the McLaren Vale in Australia. It arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature on Summer Smart Buys in the July 18th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by d'Arenberg, a renowned and well-respected winery that was established in 1912 by Joseph Osborn in the McLaren Vale wine region of South Australia. With a long and rich history of winemaking, d'Arenberg has been passed down from one generation to the next and is currently led by Chester Osborn, the fourth generation of the Osborn family, who became Chief Winemaker at the family estate in 1984.

Today, the focus at d'Arenberg is to encourage each vineyard to showcase its personality by practicing viticulture and winemaking with minimal intervention. This is implemented by time-honoured techniques such as open fermentation, foot treading, and basket pressing, which allow the personality of the vineyard to shine. Furthermore, all d'Arenberg estate owned and leased vineyards are ACO Certified for organic and biodynamic processes. By using natural and environmentally friendly processes, this encourages strong root systems that penetrate the soil, which results in lively tannin structures, soil characters, and fine minerality. The environment, sustainability, and community are core values at d'Arenberg as they aim for net carbon zero by 2035 and pass on a sustainable business to the next generation.

Winemaking at d'Arenberg begins with Chester walking the vineyard rows and tasting grapes in order to classify and determine the ideal picking time for each individual vineyard. McLaren Vale is home to some of the oldest vines in the country, with some dating as far back as 1850. McLaren Vale also has a Mediterranean climate with a huge array of soil types, while its proximity to the ocean and cooling sea breezes make it an idyllic location for winegrowing. At the winery, each wine, from entry level to iconic, undergoes basket pressing, with all red ferments foot trod during fermentation, a labour-intensive action that is controlled, extremely gentle, and yields quality results. Importantly, all parcels remain separate until final blending.

The name of this wine comes from a time during the 1980s vine pull scheme when d'Arry Osborn refused to remove his old Grenache vineyards. Today, as keeper of nearly one-third of McLaren Vale's old bush vine Grenache, d'Arenberg has earned the title of "Custodian" of the variety.

To craft this 100% Grenache wine, small batches of grapes were gently crushed and transferred into open fermenters, after which foot treading was undertaken two-thirds of the way through fermentation. The wine was then basket-pressed and transferred into old French oak to complete fermentation and mature. The basket-fermented wine was then aged on its lees for 9 months, without any racking until final blending. After blending, it was bottled without undergoing any fining or filtration.

In McLaren Vale, the 2021 growing season began with a wet winter and spring that replenished soil moisture before a hot, dry November naturally reduced yields. Well-timed February rain refreshed the vines, while warm conditions accelerated ripening, resulting in one of the earliest harvests on record. Mild, dry autumn weather, punctuated by a few warm days in late March and early April, allowed Grenache and other late-ripening varieties to reach full maturity. From a vintage that produced both quantity and quality, along with it being considered as one of the best vintages of this century, let's see how this 2021 Grenache from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

D'ARENBERG THE CUSTODIAN GRENACHE 2021 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#713040) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Grenache has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that seems a bit tight, with deep aromas of red & black raspberry, black cherry, dried herbs, and toasted nut notes nuanced with peppery spice, stony minerals, and a touch of red florals adding further interest and complexity. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it has fresh and lively acidity, alongside ripe, fine-grained tannins with good structure. It has lovely red & black raspberry, black cherry, dried herb, peppery spice, and savoury mineral flavours. Well-balanced with juicy acids on the mid-palate leading to savoury, earthy mineral, and toasted nut notes with a slightly chalky texture on the long finish. Should dink nicely over the coming half dozen+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A couple of wines by d'Arenberg are widely available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.