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  • Date publishedThursday, February 23, 2023

Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge 2017 (Loire) - Wine Review

red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend. It was featured as part of the theme on wines from France's top wine regions in the LCBO VINTAGES Release and is available online at lcbo.com and at Flagship Exclusive locations in Ontario.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire wine producers. Jean-Max Roger is a family-owned winery that descends from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, in the Sancerre appellation, dating back to the early 17th century. In the early 1970's, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vineyards from his parents and, with his wife Nicole, focused on developing the vineyards to become one of the top estates in Sancerre today. The Rogers family passion was transferred to their sons with Etienne and Thibault joining the family estate in 2004, while their third son, Xavier, has a passion for wine and works in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Today, the estate covers 26 hectares in the Sancerre AOC, all located along the Loire River, and together they perpetuate the family know-how and techniques to continuously improve their wines vintage after vintage.

Pinot Noir from this region in France is a bit of a rarity here in Ontario, and this particular wine seems to show up at the LCBO once every 2-3 years. I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages this lovely Pinot on a couple of occasions, including most recently the 2015 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge back in July 2020. It's name "La Grange Dîmière" refers to one of Bué's ancient tithe barns. The ancestors of Jean-Max Roger used this barn for making their wine and today it remains the oldest part of the winery.

This Sancerre Rouge is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué, Sancerre, and Amigny, on limestone soils called Caillottes and Terres Blanches, which are also known as Kimmeridgian marls. The vines average between 25 to 40 years old and have southwestern and southeastern exposure to the sun. Across each vineyard, the grapes were grown to reveal its terroir while revitalizing and respecting soil life. The grapes were hand-harvested, sorted, de-stemmed, and crushed, and after a few days of cold maceration it was fermented using natural yeasts. Approximately 30% of the wine was aged for 10-12 months in 400 L barrels, and the wine was aged in bottle for at least another 6 months prior to release.

From a somewhat difficult start to the growing season in 2017 that began with frosts, the fortunes turned and became picture-perfect throughout summer and allowed the grapes to full ripen. Overall, the 2017 vintage in Loire is a good one, with especially high-quality in Sancerre. Let's see how this 2017 Sancerre Rouge is tasting tonight...

Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge 2017 (91 pts)

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROUGE 2017 - AC, Loire, France (#539858) (XD) - $33.95
100% Pinot Noir. The medium-high intensity nose has ripe, maturing, and slightly stewed strawberry, red berry, raspberry, and cranberry aromas surrounded by enticing savoury mineral, earthy, and spice notes. It's light-to-mid weighted on the dry palate with delicious strawberry-cran-cherry, raspberry, and spice flavours layered over mineral and savoury earth notes. It has very good acidity and supple, well-structured tannins and a light grip on the mid-palate. I really like the long, elegant, stony mineral and raspberry flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Only small quantities of other wines from the Jean-Max Roger portfolio are available at the LCBO, but they can also be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.


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