October 25, 2025 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: France

Here are my top wine picks from the October 25, 2025, LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here), where Fine French Wines are the feature story of the release. With the holidays creeping up, this is a big release with nearly 155 SKUs offered — nearly 40 of which are Gift and Sampler Packs. There are many fine wines in this release that are worthy gift-giving options or adding to your cellar, and everything should be available for purchase in-store and online.

We'll begin with the feature on Fine French Wines, and of the twenty-two wines included as part of the thematic, nine are included among my top wine picks. Champagne is synonymous with fine French wines, and there are a couple of fine bubblies from Champagne in this release - with the 2016 Champagne composed of 43% Pinot Noir (13% red wine), 42% Chardonnay, and 15% Meunier, while the non-vintage Champagne is crafted with Pinot Noir. The lone French white recommendation is the Muscadet from Loire that is crafted with Melon de Bourgogne, while the lone rosé is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Caladoc, and Syrah. From the Rhône Valley, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault, while the Crozes-Hermitage is 100% Syrah. The red wine from Saint-Chinian in Languedoc is crafted with 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre, while the Bordeaux red is 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The last wine from France is the Madiran, which is primarily Tannat with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in support.

Red wine recommendations from the main release begins in Italy with a Bolgheri from Tuscany that is crafted with 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc, and 25% Merlot, followed by the Sicilian red that is a blend of 50% Nero d'Avola, 25% Merlot, 20% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Franc. From Chile, the Cabernet Sauvignon is actually blended with 10% Syrah and 5% Carmenere, while the Central Valley red from Chile is composed of 45% Grenache, 40% Petite Sirah, and 15% Mourvèdre. From Spain, the Rioja is made with 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, and the rest is Mazuelo and Graciano., while the Priorat is a blend of 55% Cariñena and 45% Garnacha. Among the single varietal wines, there are a couple of fine Pinot Noirs - one each from Niagara and New Zealand, as well as a pair of Malbecs from Argentina. There's also a lovely Pinotage from South Africa, and a Garnacha from Spain.

All of my top white wine picks are mono-varietal wines. There are a trio of Chardonnays worth your attention, with versions from New Zealand, Argentina, and an unoaked Chardonnay from Niagara. Also recommended buys are the Chenin Blanc from South Africa, and the Grüner Veltliner from Austria. If you enjoy off-dry (i.e. mildly sweet) Riesling, there are a pair of fine Rieslings from the Niagara Escarpment appellation. Lastly, and staying on the local front, there is a delicious, dry Gewürztraminer from Niagara-on-the-Lake, followed by a lovely Gewürztraminer Icewine.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Salud!

Red Wine:

• FORTANT GRANDS TERROIRS SAINT-CHINIAN 2022 - AOC, Languedoc, France (#43564) (XD) - $19.95
• PLANETA LA SEGRETA ROSSO SICILIA 2022 - Sustainable, DOC, Sicily, Italy (#477950) (XD) - $19.95
• SALENTEIN RESERVE MALBEC 2023 - Vegan, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#640854) (XD) - $19.95  90 pts  wine review
• RADFORD DALE VINUM PINOTAGE 2022 - Vegan, WO Coastal Region, South Africa (#45165) (XD) - $19.95  90+ pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ 2019 - AOP Madiran, Southwest, France (#743385) (XD) - $23.95  90+ pts  wine review

• VOLCANES DE CHILE TECTONIA GRENACHE/ PETITE SIRAH/ MOURVÈDRE 2021 - Valle Central, Chile (#44597) (XD) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• CLOS BALTASAR GARNACHA 2021 - Vegan, DO Calatayud, Spain (#22444) (XD) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• MONTES ALPHA SPECIAL CUVÉE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - DO Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#649160) (XD) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• ERADUS PINOT NOIR 2023 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41809) (XD) - $24.95  review coming soon...
• VERSADO CENTENARY VINES MALBEC 2019 - Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#46352) (XD) - $29.95
• DOMAINE DU GRAND ORMEAU 2020 - Sustainable, AOC Lalande de Pomerol, Bordeaux, France (#33040) (XD) - $33.95

• CLOUDSLEY TWENTY MILE BENCH PINOT NOIR 2020 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#11665) (XD) - $36.95  92 pts  wine review
• TORRES SALMOS 2021 - DOCa Priorat, Spain (#450734) (XD) - $39.95  92 pts  wine review
• XAVIER VIGNON CROZES-HERMITAGE 2021 - AOP, Rhône, France (#43809) (XD) - $48.95  91+ pts  wine review
• R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA BOSCONIA RESERVA 2014 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#529586) (XD) - $59.95
• CHÂTEAU LA NERTHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2022 - AOC, Rhône, France (#735407) (XD) - $74.95
• ANTINORI GUADO AL TASSO 2022 - DOC Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy (#986380) (XD) - $203.95

White Wine:

• BOYA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2025 - Sustainable, Coast Zone, DO Valle de Leyda, Chile (#389726) (XD) - $15.95  88 pts  wine review
• 2027 CELLARS WISMER VINEYARD FOXCROFT BLOCK RIESLING 2023 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#47642) (D) - $18.95
• REIF RESERVE GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2023 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#360255) (XD) - $19.95
• RADFORD DALE VINUM CHENIN BLANC 2023 - Vegan, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13338) (XD) - $19.95
• CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#918805) (XD) - $20.95
• LAURENZ V. FRIENDLY GRÜNER VELTLINER 2023 - DAC Kamptal, Austria (#66225) (XD) - $22.95  89 pts  wine review
• HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE RIESLING 2021 - Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#183491) (D) - $24.95
• DOMAINE POIRON DABIN CHÂTEAU-THÉBAUD MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE 2019 - AOP, Loire, France (#42743) (XD) - $28.95
• AUNTSFIELD SINGLE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#12623) (XD) - $32.95
• TWO SISTERS UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2021 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#423103) (XD) - $39.00

Rosé Wine:

• LE BIJOU DE SOPHIE VALROSE ROSÉ 2024 - IGP Coteaux de Béziers, Languedoc, France (#20012) (XD) - $17.95

Sparkling Wine:

• DRAPPIER ZERO DOSAGE BRUT NATURE PINOT NOIR CHAMPAGNE - AOC, France (#179275) (XD) - $74.95
• MOËT & CHANDON GRAND VINTAGE EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2016 - AOC, France (#69831) (XD) - $131.95

Dessert Wine:

• LAKEVIEW GEWÜRZTRAMINER ICEWINE 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#547703, 200 mL) (S) - $34.95  92+ pts  wine review

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Ackerman Bulle Royale Crémant de Loire Brut Sparkling (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious traditional method sparkling wine from Loire that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's September 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Maison Ackerman, a winery whose roots began as a skilled grain and wine merchant in 1811. The initial business was established by Jean‑Baptiste Ackerman, of Belgian origin, and Jean Pierre Apollinaire Laurance-Olivier, in Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent, near Saumur in the Loire Valley. In the 1830s, Jean‑Baptiste began experimenting with méthode traditionnelle (i.e., traditional method sparkling wine) and eventually became one of Loire's sparkling wine pioneers.

The troglodyte limestone cellars in Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent, on the banks of the Thouet, where the small river meets the Loire, were optimal for storing and crafting his sparkling wines because they have a cool and constant temperature, low light, and a large storage capacity. From the middle of the 19th century onwards, the number of sparkling wine houses multiplied and settled on either side of the Ackerman-Laurance cellars. These cellars were a source of new economic activity in Saumur, as the resulting sparkling wines were exported all over the world.

Today, these cellars are a key element of the natural and industrial landscape of the Saumur region of the Loire, which is a World Heritage Site. While these cellars are no longer the place where their wines are produced, they remain the soul of the company. Ackerman is an historic wine house with a rich heritage, and its longevity and prosperity are based on its winegrowers, its employees, and its customers.

With core values focused on elegance, diversity, and audacity, Ackerman is highly involved in the vineyard from pruning through to harvesting, while a research & development centre is at the very heart of the vineyard. They also have a spirit of innovation and employ the latest in winemaking and bottling technologies. Ackerman is also committed to limiting their impact on the environment and sustainable development. Their vineyards are HVE (High Environmental Value) certified, while also making their winegrowers and partners aware of alternative and eco-responsible practices, as well as protecting biodiversity.

This particular sparkling wine is from Maison Ackerman's Bulle Royale range, which is inspired by the "Cuvée de l'Aiglon" that was created by Maurice Rémy in 1956 to revive the trade of fine sparkling wines from Saumur. This Crémant de Loire was crafted in the traditional method using 70% Chenin, 15% Chardonnay, and 15% Cabernet Franc grapes that were grown in Saumurois soils and terroirs. The region is primarily known for its chalky and porous soil, which allows the roots of the vines to go deep into the soil in search of water, while the climate is Oceanic with low rainfall. After hand-harvesting the grapes at optimal maturity, the grapes were brought to their cellars in Vaudelnay. Each grape variety was vinified separately, gently whole-cluster pressed, then blended at the end of winter. It was aged on its lees for 18 to 25 months. For this cuvée, they assembled the most fruity and expressive Chenin Blanc from clayey terroirs with very ripe and concentrated Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc from limestone plots. Let's see how this Crémant de Loire Brut sparkling wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ACKERMAN BULLE ROYALE CRÉMANT DE LOIRE BRUT SPARKLING - Traditional Method, AOP, Loire, France (#42057) (D) - $20.95
Blend of 70% Chenin, 15% Chardonnay, and 15% Cabernet Franc. The delicate, medium+ intensity nose delivers lemon citrus, acacia floral, and green apple aromas nuanced with white peach, melon, toasty and biscuit notes. The light-to-mid-weighted palate is crisp and lively with energetic acidity. Dry on the flavour profile with toasty, leesy, biscuit, lemon peel, citrus, green apple, and acacia floral flavours, plus touches of melon and white peach, with a kiss of underlying sweetness. The juicy mid-palate leads to savoury, leesy minerals, and touches of stone fruits on the long, crisp finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Ackerman can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Girard Le Fleuron de La Rebourgère Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2022 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine that is made with the Melon de Bourgogne grape varietal. It arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the April 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Girard, a small family estate situated in the heart of the Muscadet area, between the Sèvre & Maine Rivers. It was established by the Girard family during the 1940s in Rebourgère, a hamlet of Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, in the heart of the region of Nantes. As the only son of Marcel and Gabrielle Girard, Gaston had to work on the family farm at an early age. He also helped his mother, a brave and ambitious woman with a strong character, as she had just lost her husband who came from the war with illness. Like most farms at the time, the Girard family practiced mixed farming with some cattle, cereal crops, and vines.

Everything changed in 1961, after Gaston married Georgette, a young woman from the nearby village of La Haie-Fouassière. Together, they worked to grow the farm, giving up mixed farming and cattle to focus on grapevines. In the 1970s, they developed direct-selling and were pioneers of this type of marketing. The entire family was involved in the business, while Gaston focused on the winemaking, while the rest of the family, including son Patrick, bottled, labelled, and wrapped the product. At the end of the week, the whole family would cross Brittany, Normandy, and other regions of Nantes to deliver their wines to cafés, restaurants, and private clients by car and trailer, and soon upgraded by a Citroën "H" van.

Patrick Girard is the third generation of the family to farm the land. From his first steps, he followed his father into the vines. After completing his studies in winemaking, Patrick joined his father to work on the farm in the late-1980s, and after a few years working with his parents, Patrick took over ownership of the estate in 1991 when Gaston retired. Perhaps it was a signal that in April 1991 the vines froze, and the crop was annihilated, just a month before his marriage to Martine in May. Patrick and Martine overcame these difficulties with bravery and ambition, and after years of hard work, with experience and knowledge acquired from former generations, the third generation of the Girard family revived the vineyard. Over the years, they also made numerous improvements using modern techniques both in the vineyard and in the wine cellar.

Today, the motto of the Girard family is the quality of the work, the precision, and the flawless quality of the wines, which have garnered numerous awards over the years. Domaine Girard has 93 acres of vines in reasoned culture, with 60% of the crop sold directly, and a range of diversified wines. Patrick works in the vineyard, is the winemaker, and also takes care of commercialization. Martine works in the wine cellar, while also preparing orders and dealing with administrative and accounting work. Patrick is also now joined by his son, Guillaume, the 4th generation of the Girard family, to farm these lands. After completing his studies in winemaking and marketing, Guillaume joined his parents at the estate in 2013 and, like his father, combines tradition and modernity.

Crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne, the grapes for this white wine are from 40+ year-old vines that were planted on parcels of week-to-moderate slopes, on silty, clayey and shallow soils (less than 30 cm), and with a sub-soil made up of schist and gneiss. The grapes were mechanically harvested, and upon arriving at the winery they were direct-pressed and fermented in underground, thermo-regulated vats. The wine was left on its lees for 9 to 10 months, with one or two bâtonnages (stirring the settled lees back into the wine) to increase richness and texture.

The growing season in the Loire Valley in 2022 started with a dry and relatively cool winter. There were some April frosts, but there was little damage as they occurred prior to budburst, even though budburst and flowering were early compared to normal. Temperatures warmed up in late-spring, while June saw some fortunate rain just before July's high temperatures set in and remained throughout the summer growing season, which helped keep the grapes from both rotting and disease, as well as allowing the grapes to reach phenolic ripeness. Harvest was unsurprisingly early, delivering great results with relatively high yields. The fruit was rich and ripe at harvest, while retaining acidity and aromatics. Overall, it was a very good-to-excellent vintage. Let's see how this 2022 Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine from the Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE GIRARD LE FLEURON DE LA REBOURGÈRE MUSCADET-SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#557207) (XD) - $16.95
Crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne, this has clean, fresh, and elegant aromatics of medium-high intensity rising out of the glass with ripe lemon-lime citrus, some yeasty-leesy minerality, white peach, oyster shell, and herbal aromas. It has very good weight and concentration on the medium+ to medium-full bodied, dry, and lightly honeyed palate with delicious and complex citrusy, white peach, apple-pear, spice, and saline mineral flavours. It has nicely balanced, juicy acidity and a very finely textured mouthfeel. Apple and pear notes give way to leesy and oyster shell minerals on the long, crisp, and well-balanced finish. Enjoy over the next 4-5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Girard can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO Inc.

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Henkell Brut Crémant de Loire 2016 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious vintage Crémant from Loire that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

It is produced by Henkell, a leading, family-owned sparkling wine producer that is based in Wiesbaden, Germany. Henkell is an international star and best seller when it comes to exporting the German sparkling wine culture as their wines are found globally in more than 100 countries.

It all began when wine lover, Adam Henkell, opened a store as a wine merchant in 1832. He later discovered the fine art of crafting traditional method sparkling wine in France and brought this knowledge back home to Germany, marrying the French art of the cuvée with the German art of cellar-mastery. Following the French example, Henkell made his first outstanding sparkling wines in 1856, marking the beginning of a unique German success story. The Henkell brand of sparkling wines was famous all over the world before the end of the 19th century thanks to Otto Henkell, Adam's grandson. Henkell was also an export pioneer and market leader before the turn of the century, and in the 1950's, after Otto Henkell II took the helm, the company played an important role in the German economic miracle. Since its inception, Henkell has used the best base wines and the perfect technical skills of both German and French cellarmasters to guarantee its inimitable flavour and consistently high quality.

This sparkling wine was launched by Henkell in the fast-growing product segment of Crémant de Loire as a tribute to its French roots. Founder Adam Henkell learned the fine art of sparkling wine production in France and also had his own winery in the French town of Reims, the home of Champagne.

It is not often we see vintage-dated Crémant, but the grapes for this bubbly were hand-harvested at the end of the 2016 growing season, and only the best juices were selected for this wine. It is crafted in the traditional method using 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The first fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. It was aged on its lees for a short period of time, then underwent a second fermentation in bottle for about 3 years in natural cellars, where the temperature remains a constant 12-13°C and provides the optimal environment for secondary fermentation. Let's see how this 2016 Crémant de Loire sparkling wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HENKELL BRUT CRÉMANT DE LOIRE 2016 - Traditional method, AP, Loire, France (#29893) (D) - $21.95
A blend of 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The attractive, medium+ intensity nose has lemon citrus, pear, and peach aromas nuanced with brioche, autolytic, and toasty characters. It's medium-full bodied with some sweetness on the palate with honeyed flavours of ripe pear, peach, lemon citrus, plus some toasty, brioche, and hazelnut notes adding a savoury component. It has a crisp mouthfeel with a fine mousse and fresh acidity. More savoury with leesy mineral notes and hints citrus lingering on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Henkell are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre in April, tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a perennially excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend, as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

This white wine is crafted by one of my favourite producers, Jean-Max Roger, a renowned wine producer based in the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, within the Loire Valley wine region in France. The Roger family comes from a long line of winegrowers, with the first mention of the family name dating back to the 17th century. Up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. When Jean-Max Roger and his wife, Nicole, took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents in the 1970s, they focused their attention on developing the vineyards and estate.

Under the guidance of Jean-Max, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines within the Sancerre appellation, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles which are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes, Kimmeridgian Marl, and Flint. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

Jean-Max Roger's passion for wine was naturally passed on to his sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004, the brothers joined their father at the family estate. While complementing each other, the brothers perpetuate the family's know-how, vineyard and winemaking techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The Roger family is dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines with finesse, purity, and typicity, which has helped solidify Jean-Max Roger's reputation as one of Sancerre's top wine producers.

Like previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc was grown in the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre, on limestone soils called "caillottes", with vineyard exposure to the south and southwest. The vines are roughly between 6 to 40 years of age and tended to produce grapes that reveal their terroir. Yields are controlled, while organic amendments and deep soil working revitalize soil life. At the winery, the wines are vinified to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. After harvest, the grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours to protect the aromas. Temperature-controlled, long fermentation was carried out using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on its heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration to stabilize the wine, it was bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2021 growing season in Sancerre was a complicated one with frost, mildew, and storms, with great variability on a daily basis. Yields were down with fewer clusters, but the fruit that was harvested is of high quality, resulting in wines that were surprisingly good. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $36.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Elegant and beautifully intense, the aromatic nose offers lemon/lime citrus, stony minerality, grassy herbs, guava, tropical fruit, and grapefruit aromas with hints of melon. It's medium-full bodied, impressively concentrated, and well-structured on the crunchy palate. Dry and complex with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon/lime, citrus, white floral, ripe apple, and pear, with touches of guava, tapering to stony mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It has nicely textured mouthfeel that is supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Stony, leesy mineral notes linger on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 and La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from Sancerre in the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, a renowned producer from Sancerre in the Loire Valley, and is easily my favourite producer from the region. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, a commune within the Sancerre appellation and located to the west and a little to the south of the town of Sancerre. The Roger family name was first mentioned in the 17th century and up until the 1960s practiced mixed farming, which included animal rearing.

Jean-Max took over the family estate of 4 hectares of vines in the 1970s and, together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and estate. Under his guidance, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Jean-Max Roger is focused on crafting high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of Sancerre, which is renowned for its chalky limestone soils and cool climate.

Today, the estate is still operated by Jean-Max Roger and his wife. However, their passion and love for wine was transferred to both of their sons, and in 2004 both Thibault and Etienne joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating the family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. With a family estate that has grown to 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, and with more than 40 plots that offer an exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles, this allows the Roger family to use their winemaking expertise to allow each wine to express all of the uniqueness of the terroirs through the wines structure, elegance, and finesse. Jean-Max Roger also maintains a sustainable approach to viticulture which helps preserve the vines and terroir, while not compromising on the production of top-quality grapes. The winery has also expanded over the years to include modern equipment, and combined with new techniques while respecting traditions, Jean-Max Roger is able to craft their wines under optimal conditions.

With vineyard management, Jean-Max Roger produces grapes to reveal its terroir. The vines are tended to using organic principles and working the deep soil to revitalize soil life. By using the Guyot Poussard pruning method, the result is better balance of the stock. They also perform spring disbudding to control yields, while using mechanical weed control which respects soil life. At the winery, Jean-Max Roger aims to produce wines reflecting the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are pneumatically pressed upon arriving at the winery, and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours which helps protect deterioration of aromas, while also eliminating vegetal fragments and dust. The wines undergo a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, which helps develop aromatic complexity, and follows with ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration, which helps stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

While the 2021 vintage was a good, but tricky vintage, the 2022 vintage was very good and referred to as possibly the best in the last 30 years. Having enjoyed previous editions of these wines such as the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre and the 2020 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé, I would expect similar, if not better quality levels this time around. Let's see how this Sancerre Rosé and Sancerre Blanc wines from Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $38.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from 5 to 40 year-old vines grown in the villages of Bué & Amigny on Kimmeridgian Marls (Marnes) and Limestone (Caillottes) soils. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the perfumed nose with spring flowers, lemon/lime citrus, herbs, and freshly cut grass aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It's nicely textured on the medium+ bodied palate with fresh, lively acidity lifting the clean and ripe lemon/lime citrus, spring flower, herbs, and stony mineral flavours, plus some spicy notes on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced throughout with a pleasantly chalky textured mouthfeel on the back palate. Lovely lemon/lime citrus and dried herbal notes taper to an exceptionally long, leesy mineral finish. My favourite in the portfolio and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $31.95
100% Pinot Noir grown on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone, Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes' soils from vines between 25 to 45 years old. The medium+ intensity nose is clean and fresh and red berry, strawberry, cherry, grapefruit, and citrus, and blood orange aromas underpinned by fine mineral notes. On the medium+ bodied palate it is dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed with lovely mineral, grapefruit, blood orange, red berry, strawberry, and cherry flavour replays. It has clean, succulent, and well-balanced acidity, along with a pleasant, chalky textured mouthfeel. Lightly spicy on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

While a couple of other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be found at the LCBO, the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After the enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre over the weekend, tonight's white wine review is its excellent companion that also arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 15th.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. The Roger family comes from long-line of of winegrowers in the village of Bué, with the family name first mentioned in the 17th century. Until the 1960s, the family practiced mixed farming which included animal rearing.

In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've enjoyed this Sancerre Blanc many times over the years, including most recently the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre back in September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in ancestral plots in the village of Bué, in Grand Chemarin and neighbouring vineyards with identical agronomic characteristics. It gets its name "Cuvée Genèse" because this is the wine that has shaped the tastes of several generations of the Roger family and it is the genesis of the estate.

The Sauvignon Blanc vines are between 10-40 years old and planted on stony, limestone, and calcareous soils called "caillottes" with south-eastern exposure to the sun. Like other wines in the portfolio, the vineyards are managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. At the winery, the wines are produced to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed upon arrival at the winery, then cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtration, the wine is bottled at the estate. From a challenging 2021 growing season, let's see how this Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#189126) (XD) - $37.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, and intensely aromatic with impressive depth, it has lovely aromas of lemon citrus, white floral, flinty-earthy minerality, pear, quince, and melon. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has very good concentration with ripe, lightly honeyed flavours of citrus, pear, quince, and flinty-earthy-leesy minerality. It's supported by fresh, crisp, and lively acidity, and a pleasing textural mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Leesy minerality with citrus, quince, and pear notes linger on the very long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the April 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire Valley wine producers. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers in the village of Bué, which is located just west and a little south of the town of Sancerre. The first mention of the Roger family name dates back to the 17th century and up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate.

Today, Jean-Max Roger is one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this lovely white wine from Sancerre, including most recently the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre last September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in the famous vineyards of Saint Martin, L'Epée, and others, within the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre. Most importantly, this is a terroir-focused wine where all of the grapes were grown on limestone soils called "caillottes", and hence, where the wine gets its name from. The grapes have southern and south-western exposure to the sun. The vines are between 6-40 years of age and were managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. After harvesting, the grapes are brought to the winery and immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtering, the wine is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded in the Loire Valley. However, periods of intense rain helped fully replenish the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late April and May were warm; July began cool, but turned very warm, while August was hot. There were some welcomed rains at the end of August, leading to fine September weather. Overall, 2020 is an excellent vintage with wines having concentration, freshness, and poise. Let's see how this 2020 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $35.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, open, and highly aromatic on the nose with lovely lemon citrus, quince, pear, and spring flower aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It is medium to medium-full bodied on the well-structured, dry, and ripe palate with deliciously elegant lemon citrus, stone fruit, apple, quince, and pear replays, plus spicy notes, herbs, and flinty mineral flavours. It is impeccably well-balanced throughout with crisp, juicy acidity, while minerally, herbal, and stone fruit characters linger on the finish, with excellent length. Wow. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge 2017 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend. It was featured as part of the theme on wines from France's top wine regions in the February 18th LCBO VINTAGES Release and is available online at lcbo.com and at Flagship Exclusive locations in Ontario.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire wine producers. Jean-Max Roger is a family-owned winery that descends from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, in the Sancerre appellation, dating back to the early 17th century. In the early 1970's, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vineyards from his parents and, with his wife Nicole, focused on developing the vineyards to become one of the top estates in Sancerre today. The Rogers family passion was transferred to their sons with Etienne and Thibault joining the family estate in 2004, while their third son, Xavier, has a passion for wine and works in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Today, the estate covers 26 hectares in the Sancerre AOC, all located along the Loire River, and together they perpetuate the family know-how and techniques to continuously improve their wines vintage after vintage.

Pinot Noir from this region in France is a bit of a rarity here in Ontario, and this particular wine seems to show up at the LCBO once every 2-3 years. I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages this lovely Pinot on a couple of occasions, including most recently the 2015 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge back in July 2020. It's name "La Grange Dîmière" refers to one of Bué's ancient tithe barns. The ancestors of Jean-Max Roger used this barn for making their wine and today it remains the oldest part of the winery.

This Sancerre Rouge is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué, Sancerre, and Amigny, on limestone soils called Caillottes and Terres Blanches, which are also known as Kimmeridgian marls. The vines average between 25 to 40 years old and have southwestern and southeastern exposure to the sun. Across each vineyard, the grapes were grown to reveal its terroir while revitalizing and respecting soil life. The grapes were hand-harvested, sorted, de-stemmed, and crushed, and after a few days of cold maceration it was fermented using natural yeasts. Approximately 30% of the wine was aged for 10-12 months in 400 L barrels, and the wine was aged in bottle for at least another 6 months prior to release.

From a somewhat difficult start to the growing season in 2017 that began with frosts, the fortunes turned and became picture-perfect throughout summer and allowed the grapes to full ripen. Overall, the 2017 vintage in Loire is a good one, with especially high-quality in Sancerre. Let's see how this 2017 Sancerre Rouge is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROUGE 2017 - AC, Loire, France (#539858) (XD) - $33.95
100% Pinot Noir. The medium-high intensity nose has ripe, maturing, and slightly stewed strawberry, red berry, raspberry, and cranberry aromas surrounded by enticing savoury mineral, earthy, and spice notes. It's light-to-mid weighted on the dry palate with delicious strawberry-cran-cherry, raspberry, and spice flavours layered over mineral and savoury earth notes. It has very good acidity and supple, well-structured tannins and a light grip on the mid-palate. I really like the long, elegant, stony mineral and raspberry flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Only small quantities of other wines from the Jean-Max Roger portfolio are available at the LCBO, but they can also be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

A perennial favourite, tonight's white wine review is this excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that came to the LCBO last weekend as part of the December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, a winemaking family that descends from a long line of winegrowers dating back to at least the 17th century in the village of Bué, in Sancerre of the Loire Valley. Up until the 1960s, the Roger practised mixed farming and animal rearing, but when Jean-Max Roger took over in the 1970s from what his parents left him, he (along with his wife Nicole) focused on the 4 hectares of vineyards they had and developed the estate to become one of the top producers in the Loire. They passed on their love for wine and terroir to their sons, and in 2004 Thibault and Etienne, two of their three sons, joined their father at the estate.

Today, Thibault and Etienne continue to define the estate's identity, which is comprised of 34 hectares of land, of which 28 hectares are in the Sancerre appellation. There are more than forty plots of land which offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope and soil profiles, and are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes (stony calcareous clay soil), Kimmeridgian Marl or Terres Blanches (clayey calcareous clay soil), and Flint (siliceous clay soil). As a complementary team, Thibault and Etienne perpetuate the family know-how and techniques that they are perfecting vintage after vintage. Along with their winemaking expertise, the various terroirs allows each of their wines to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance and finesse.

This Sancerre is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué & Amigny, with soils consisting of Kimmeridgian Marls called "Marnes" and Limestone called "Caillottes", hence the name of the wine. The vines are between 5 and 40 years of age and grown to reveal its terroir, while also using organic techniques and respecting soil life. In the winery, the grapes go through a pneumatic press and a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts. The wine is aged on heavy lees to develop minerality, and fined and filtered prior to bottling at the estate using their own facilities.

I enjoyed the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre in August of last year and am excited to try the latest vintage. The winter leading up to the 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded the Loire Valley, but also featured periods of intense rains that fully replenished the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late-April and May were very warm. July began cool, but then turned very warm, while August was hot. Harvest began after some welcome rains at the end of August, leading into fine weather for the month of September. The 2020 vintage was another excellent vintage in the Loire Valley with wines showing excellent concentration, freshness, and poise.

This white wine is quite possibly my favourite wine in the Jean-Max Roger portfolio. Let's see how this 2020 Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $33.95
Lovely, intense, and ripe aromas of lemon citrus, melon, and grapefruit with touches of tropical fruit, all underpinned by fine, stony minerality. It has very good fruit concentration on the medium-full bodied palate with ripe, slightly honeyed and gently spicy flavours of lemon citrus, melon, grapefruit, apple, peach, and tropical fruits framed by fresh and elegant acidity. Nicely balanced throughout with fine, leesy mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Both the Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2019 and Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2020 that I enjoyed recently are available at the LCBO, while other wines from Jean-Max Roger can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, organic white wine from the Loire Velley in France that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Claude Branger at Domaine Haute Févrie in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation in the Loire Valley. The Domaine was founded 18 km southeast of Nantes during the First World War by Claude's grandfather. For many years, Claude worked alongside his father for many years, and in 2007 he was joined by his son Sébastien to become the fourth generation of the family to carefully tend the estate's vines which are situated on hills overlooking the Sèvre River, ‎between the communes of Saint-Fiacre and Monnières. As conscientious winegrowers, the Branger family harvests all of their grapes by hand, and starting in 2016, Sébastien embarked on a vision to convert all of their vineyards to organic farming. By 2019, all of the domain's parcels were fully certified organic.

I've enjoyed this consistently delicious wine many times over the years, including most recently the 2019 Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine last year in July. Certified organic, this white wine is crafted with the Melon de Bourgogne varietal from 10 hectares of vines averaging 40+ years old that were grown in the earlier maturing plots of the Les Gras Moutons vineyard. The vines are planted on soils that sit on a granite bedrock that is metamorphic gneiss full of mica and quartz. The grapes were hand-picked and after fermentation rested on its lees for 6-7 months prior to bottling.

2021 was a tricky growing season in the Loire with difficult weather and yields down significantly. However, the resulting wines were surprisingly good with the cool growing season naturally favouring aromatic varietals which preserved their elegant structures and clean, crisp acidity. Let's see how this 2021 Muscadet is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE FILS DES GRAS MOUTONS SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#363150) (XD) - $17.95
This lovely organic wine crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne has a crisp, elegant, and focused medium-high intensity nose with appealing aromas of lemon-lime citrus, orchard fruit, apple, and mineral with hints of melon and peach adding further complexity. There's good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied palate that is slightly honeyed with ripe apple, lemon-lime peel citrus, saline mineral, and subtle spice flavours, plus orange and melon notes. There's a subtle chalky mouthfeel on the mid-palate, along with clean, crisp, and juicy acidity. Minerally with citrus and apple notes lingering on the long, juicy, and dry finish. Ideal with oysters. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

You can find other lovely wines by Domaine Haute Févrie through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2019 and Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of perennially excellent white Sancerre wines crafted with Sauvignon Blanc from Loire that arrived at the LCBO recently as part of the September 10 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

These lovely wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite producers from the Loire Valley. The Roger family descends from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, with the first mention of the family name dating back to the 17th century. Up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents left for him and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and estate to make it the highly regarded producer it is today. In 2004, their sons, Thibault and Etienne, joined them at the estate. Today, Thibault and Etienne carry on their parents' passion for wine and terroir and define the estate's identity. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage.

Both of these wines are crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown on Sancerre's famous limestone soils called "caillottes". The vineyards were managed to produce grapes that reveal its terroir, including the use of organic principles and working the deep soils to revitalize the soil life. Jean-Max Roger also uses Guyot Poussard pruning to have a better balance of stock, while also performing spring debudding to control yields. Weeds are controlled mechanically while also respecting soil life.

In the winery, Jean-Max Roger uses a similar vinification process for each wine. They start by using a pneumatic press with cold settlement for between 48 and 72 hours. The wines undergo a temperature-controlled, long fermentation using natural yeasts to develop aromatic complexity, followed by ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration to stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate and rests for a couple of months prior to release.

While these wines come from different vintages, both the 2019 and 2020 vintage are considered very good years for Sauvignon Blanc. Let's see how this Sauvignon Blanc wines from Sancerre are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2019 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $31.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from vines ranging between 6 to 40 years of age that were grown in the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre. Clean, elegant, and fresh aromas of lemon citrus, white floral, and ripe orchard fruit with subtle herb, spiciness and leesy mineral aromas rising out of the glass. It's medium-full bodied with lovely aromas replays and fine, well-delineated acidity gliding across the palate. Elegant and drinking beautifully at this stage. Lightly spicy on the slightly chalky textured, juicy mid-palate. Lovely citrus and apple, along with a fine mineral streak lingers on the well-balanced finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#189126) (XD) - $32.95
This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was grown in ancestral plots exclusively in the village of Bué on caillottes soils, from vines between 10 to 40 years of age. Lovely, intense aromas of lemon/lime citrus, white floral, and spice layered over stony minerals with a hint of white peach. It has very good weight on the medium-full to full-bodied palate. Elegant citrus, white floral, and stony mineral flavour replays are lifted by fresh, juicy acidity. There's a nice, subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate, while citrus, leesy-stony mineral and floral notes linger on the very long, crisp, and balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other excellent wines by Jean-Max Roger are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Domaine La Haute Févrie Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

After a one year hiatus, it's great to see this lovely organic Muscadet made with the Melon de Bourgogne varietal come back to Ontario. I enjoyed the 2018 Domaine La Haute Févrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie almost two years ago to the day, and for tonight's wine review I bring you the 2020 vintage that arrives at the LCBO this weekend as part of the July 16 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Sébastien Branger produces this lovely Muscadet. He is an independent winemaker situated in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation, 18 kilometres southeast of Nantes, at his family's estate - Domaine Haute Févrie. Sébastien represents the fourth generation of a family of winemakers who have been carefully tending their vines to ensure that they produce the very best grapes possible. Today, Domaine Haute Févrie has 26 hectares of estate vines and practices organic and biodynamic viticulture in order to craft wines that are pure to their origins and reflect the soils where they are grown. Sébastien has great respect for the vine and the environment and does not use any chemical fertilizers, while also controlling yields and harvesting all of their fruit by hand.

The 2020 edition from their Classiques range is crafted with the Melon de Bourgogne varietal from young vines between 15 to 35 years old grown organically on the estate. The vines are located on slopes with mostly gneiss sub-soils. The grapes were hand-harvested and aged on its lees for 7 months prior to bottling.

Leading into the 2020 growing season, the winter was the warmest ever recorded in the Loire Valley, with periods of intense rain that left the soils fully replenished. March and April were alternately warm and cool, with budbreak occurring earlier than average. Late April and May remained warm with flowering occurring earlier than normal. July began cool, but turned very warm, while August was hot. Harvest occurred after the much-welcomed rains at the end of August and throughout the fine September weather. Overall, 2020 was an excellent vintage throughout the Loire Valley with grapes showing superb concentration, freshness, and poise. Let's see how this 2020 Muscadet is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE LA HAUTE FÉVRIE SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#390625) (XD) - $15.95
100% Melon de Bourgogne. Organic. Fresh, intense aromas of ripe lemon, citrus, white floral, golden apple, and leesy minerals with a twist of honey in an elegant profile. Impressively concentrated on the dry, medium-full bodied, and crisp palate with lemon citrus, apple, grapefruit, and oyster shell mineral flavours. Tangy on the mid-palate with crisp, fresh acidity. Pure notes of oyster shell mineral linger on the long, succulent finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Sébastien Branger are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2019 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious off-dry Vouvray from Loire that returned to LCBO VINTAGES a couple of weeks ago as part of the October 2nd LCBO VINTAGES Release, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

Donatien Bahuaud was born in the region of Nantes and came from a family of clog makers, coopers and vine-growers. As a young boy, he wandered through the local vineyards and enjoyed watching barrel-laden boats travel up the Loire River, and eventually decided to become a winemaker. In 1929, he founded Maison Donatien Bahuaud and travelled throughout the vineyard with his wines in oak vats loaded on a cart. With careful cultivation of the vineyard and observation of the region's terroirs, Donatien was able to craft exceptional wines with subtle and refined flavours. He contributed to the recognition of Muscadet up until the creation of the AOC in 1936 and was recognized as a master in the art of wine maturing by his peers.

According to the values of Donatien Bahuaud - winemaking on its own is not enough to create unique wines. The aromas of each wine evolve naturally over time thanks to the mastering of the three types of ageing in vat, oak, and bottle. The maturing of a wine is a crucial and natural procedure that allows the wine's aromas to evolve and complete its tasting structure. Donatien Bahuaud's journey leaves behind a remarkable legacy to the brand, marked by values of excellence and quality.

This white wine is from their "Expression de Loire" range of wines - a collection of Appellation specific wines that reflect the richness and diversity of terroirs of the Loire Valley. The wines in this range are crafted to be expressive and highly typical of the appellation, while also expressing the winemaker's talent.

The grapes for this Vouvray were carefully selected and harvested from vineyards planted on limestone and chalky soils - a combination of exceptional terroir and temperate climate from the Loire which helps produce diverse styles of Chenin Blanc ranging from dry to sweet, and also sparkling wines. This Vouvray is crafted to be medium-dry in sweetness (i.e. subtly sweet) with some mineral notes. Let's see how this Vouvray from Loire is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DONATIEN BAHUAUD LES GRANDS MORTIERS VOUVRAY 2019 - AP, Loire, France (#140889) (M) - $21.95
100% Chenin Blanc, the delicate nose has honeyed aromas of elderflower and pear with a hint of minerality. The crunchy, off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) palate has good weight and a spicy flavour profile with pear, apple, and honey notes with some citrus and minerals on the back palate. Acids are pleasantly fresh and bright, while leesy mineral notes linger on the dry finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines from Donatien Bahuaud can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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