Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé 2022 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is a lovely organic and dry rosé from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Hidden Bench Estate Winery, one of the top wineries in the Niagara Peninsula. Hidden Bench was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family with a dedication to artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards situated within the sup-appellation of VQA Beamsville Bench in Niagara, Ontario. With a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach, Hidden Bench has long-established an ongoing reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally.

The Beamsville Bench is home to many of the best wines produced in Ontario. Much of this success is attributed to the limestone-rich, clay-based, and glacial till soils - all three of Hidden Bench's estate vineyards are situated on these soils and allow them to produce complex, mineral-driven wines that are old-world in style, age worthy, and have a definitive sense of place. The three estate vineyards are farmed for low yields using organic and biodynamic practices to produce approximately 120,000 bottles of wine with pronounced complexity and character which bear a sense of place and time.

Hidden Bench also employs the latest technologies to enhance the viticultural and winemaking processes, while respecting their traditional non-interventionist winemaking style. As stewards of the land, Hidden Bench has also embraced sustainability as they apply Procert certified organic and sustainable best practices in the vineyard, at the winery, and the marketing of their wines to reduce their environmental footprint on the land, and impact on their neighbours, and society as a whole.

I've had the pleasure of tasting many wines over the years from Hidden Bench, and their passion is always on full display as they embrace a whole-team approach that is founded upon a shared, ongoing passion for excellence, as well as a contagious enthusiasm. Their ongoing and uncompromising attention to detail distinguishes and differentiates their wines and winery from their contemporaries.

Having tasted this rosé wine several times in the past, I know that the exact composition changes with each vintage. For the 2022 vintage, this dry rosé is composed of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. All of the grapes were grown organically on the estate and crafted using a combination of both "direct to press" and "saignée" techniques. As this blend is predominantly Pinot Noir, the elegance of whole-cluster pressed Pinot Noir, combined with a small percentage of the richer saignée portion, provides a unique complexity to the finished wine, while both portions were fermented in neutral French oak and aged for 5 months prior to racking and blending.

The 2022 vintage began with cold temperatures in January, with overnight lows close to -21°C. This cold snap caused some primary bud damage, and was partially responsible for a 25% reduction in grape yields compared to their historical average. Spring brought better weather with seasonal temperatures and minimal precipitation. Flowering started earlier than normal, while the berry set was complete by late June. Summer was moderate and dry, with seasonal rainfall. The main challenge in the vineyard was managing disease pressures, which were the result of high humidity from June through August. Disease pressure was reduced by keeping the fruit clean through timely leaf removal, crop thinning, and a disciplined and timely organic spray program. Veraison began in early August and was completed towards the middle of the month, while harvest began in the middle of September and lasted until mid-to-late October. Hidden Bench was blessed with consistent and favourable weather during harvest, which allowed them to choose pick dates based on flavour and ripeness.

It is often said, particularly in Niagara, that the quality of the vintage is determined by the weather in September and October. Overall, Hidden Bench was pleased with the quality of the harvested fruit, albeit in smaller-than-normal quantities. It is expected that the 2022 vintage is excellent across the board with wines that will truly showcase the terroir of the Beamsville Bench in Niagara. Let's see how this 2022 rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2022 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#68833) (XD) - $24.95
This organic rosé is blend of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. The deep and intense nose offers lovely, complex aromas of grapefruit, citrus, orange, stony minerals, and floral accented with strawberry, melon, watermelon, and peach. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, lightly honeyed palate with fresh, juicy acidity supporting grapefruit, citrus, strawberry, watermelon, melon, orange, mineral, and floral flavours. Slightly viscous mouthfeel on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced with pleasing mineral, grapefruit, and citrus flavours that are joined by spicy notes on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Many other lovely wines from the fine portfolio of Hidden Bench Estate Winery can be purchased through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.