Kew Blanc de Blancs 2017 and Blanc de Noirs 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

After enjoying the excellent 2020 Kew Vineyards Marsanne a few months ago (and still widely available in stores today), tonight's sparkling wine reviews a pair of wonderful bubblies from the same producer in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story on Bubbles in the December 14 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these fantastic bubblies are produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique estate winery situated on the limestone-rich soils of the Beamsville Bench, in the heart of Niagara wine country. Kew Vineyards is situated on a 160-year-old estate, in a homestead built by William Kew that was used by the family to successfully produce carriages.

Once the Kew family's chapter ended, a new chapter began in 1975, when Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. It is owned by Arterra Wines Canada, who acquired the historical property and its 80+ acres of vineyards in 2023. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures.

The focus at Kew Vineyards is on small-batch winemaking, with the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion - passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life. The winemaking team is led by veteran Australian winemaker Philip Dowell, who has focused his life's work on cool-climate wines. The philosophy at Kew is to allow the vineyard to tell its story of each harvest, while also expressing the terroir in order to produce world-class wines that are uniquely Niagara.

The sparkling wines reviewed below are both mono-varietal and vintage sparkling wines. The 2017 Blanc de Blancs is crafted using 100% Chardonnay, while the 2020 Blanc de Noirs was produced using 100% Pinot Noir. The 2017 growing season in Ontario was generally cool with wet weather. At the beginning of September, extended heat and sunshine resulted in one of the nicest autumn seasons on record, as well as a later harvest. Grape quantities were high with a record harvest, while the quality was excellent for white wine varieties. The growing season in 2020 provided near perfect conditions that coaxed the best out of a wide spectrum of grapes from whites to big red Bordeaux varieties, and everything in between, including Pinot Noir. The 2020 vintage produced grapes which reached phenolic ripeness, while also maintaining acidity to allow for balanced wines. Let's see how these two vintage sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Chardonnay that was barrel aged for 5 months prior to bottling for secondary fermentation, and then aged on its lees for 5 years. Fresh, elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers lovely toasty, brioche, and autolytic characters mingling with lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white peach aromas, plus whiffs of pastry and honey adding further complexity and intrigue. It's light-to-mid weighted and essentially dry on the palate with delicious citrusy, ripe apple, toasty, and brioche flavours with touches of autolytic notes and a twist of honey. It has crisp acidity and lively bubbles that freshen the juicy and slightly creamy palate. Subtly spicy with apple, toasty, and brioche flavours that are joined by leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Pinot Noir that was gently whole-berry pressed and fermented in stainless steel, followed by ageing on its lees for 2 years. The medium+ intensity nose offers apple, pear, red cherry, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of biscuit and toast. Some autolytic and honeyed aromas develop with time in the glass. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate is dry with delicious toasty, apple, pear, and lemon citrus flavours with hints of honey, biscuit, and mineral. It has fresh, vibrant acidity and crisp, refreshing mousse, along with a textured and slightly grippy mid-palate. Apple, lemon citrus, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Kew Vineyards can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be purchased directly from the winery in Beamsville (Niagara), or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

Read More

Artemivske Victory White Brut Sparkling and Red Semi-Sweet Sparkling (Ukraine) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's sparkling wine reviews are a pair of brand-new arrivals that landed at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the November 30 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Artwinery, a sparkling wine producer in Ukraine that was established in 1950, but whose history goes back to the 19th century.

Ukranian history in the production of traditional method sparkling wines begins with Prince Lev Golitsyn, who bought an estate in Novyi Svit, on the southern shores of Crimea, that was completely destroyed during the Crimean War. By 1882, the Prince's factory was able to revive Crimean winemaking by producing traditional method sparkling wines. During this period, in the town of Bakhmut, in the eastern part of the country, engineer Edmund Farke signed a contract with the government for the construction of alabaster factories, which became a thriving enterprise. The extraction of gypsum for the factories resulted in a large underground mine, 70 metres below ground, which had a micro-climate that allowed for fermentation to take place, and was the beginning of unique wine production in Ukraine.

The celebration of victory following World War II required a special drink, and in the 1940s they started working on creating "Soviet sparkling wine", which had to be of at least equal quality to Champagne. They used the underground galleries of Bakhmut, which was known as Artemivsk back then, for the production of classical sparkling wines, and by 1950, the wine factory was officially established. These wines were tasty, high-quality, and the most hard-to-find in the U.S.S.R., as they were distributed mostly in stores for those that worked for the party, while off-limits to ordinary citizens.

As Ukraine gained its independence in 1991, the wine factory began creating sparkling wines under its own brands - Artemivske and Krim. In 2007, the winery began upgrading the plant with more modern and powerful units, while the laboratory was completely renovated. Furthermore, some processes that were manually performed are also now automated. These upgrades allowed the winery to produce 25 million bottles per year. In 2016, the company got its new name - Artwinery. By 2020, Artwinery's sparkling wines were gaining global recognition and winning prizes at international industry competitions and exhibitions.

Today, Artwinery is the largest in Eastern Europe and the only one in Ukraine to produce sparkling wines in the classic Champenoise method where re-fermentation of the wine and its saturation with bubbles is carried out naturally in bottle. As we know - place matters, and as such, Bakhmut is situated at the same latitude and climatic zone as Champagne. The grapes used to create Artwinery's sparkling wines are grown in the fertile soils of southern Ukraine, in the sunny climates of Odesa, Kherson, and Mykolaiv. With the war in Ukraine ongoing, the workers continue producing wine in secret locations to not let the Russians stop their work.

These particular sparkling wines are from Artwinery's Artemivske range. The Artemivske brand is only 10 years old, but has become the #1 sparkling wine in Ukraine and is a favourite among several generations as it evokes the warmth of your family memories and the brightest everyday emotions. Today, the Artemivske brand retains its impeccable quality and enjoys constant popularity. Each bottle in the Artemivske range is fermented using their special in-house yeast and aged in bottle for at least 9 months and offers a delicate bouquet and taste. Let's see how these sparkling wines from Ukraine are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY RED SEMI-SWEET SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40768) (MS) - $18.95
Crafted in the Charmat method, this blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Saperavi has a medium intensity nose that is gently spicy, followed by macerated black cherry, dark berry, milk chocolate, cocoa, dark plum, cassis, and currant aromas. It's mid-weighted and gently sweet with black cherry, plummy, dark berry, savoury spices, and chocolate flavours supported by gently frothy mousse and bright acidity that tempers the sweetness. Quite harmonious and balanced throughout, even some sense of elegance, while savoury cocoa and milk chocolate notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY WHITE BRUT SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40769) (D) - $18.95
Blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Aligoté crafted in the Charmat method. The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers ripe peach, nectarine, honeysuckle, and freshly sliced apple aromas accented with orange and citrus notes. There's a touch of sweetness alongside bitterness on the crisp, refreshing, and slightly frothy light-to-mid-weighted palate with lively acidity and bubbles. Gently sweet flavours of apple, pear, orchard fruit, and white floral, plus notes of peach and citrus. Juicy and succulent on the mid-palate, while leesy notes linger on the essentially dry finish, with very good length. Appealing crowd-pleaser. Recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Artwinery can be purchased through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Deux Roches Les Pommards Saint-Véran 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2021 Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé a couple of months ago, for tonight's white wine review we go up a notch with this excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy that was a brand-new arrival at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the November 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty still available for purchase today!

Like the Pouilly-Fuissé, this white wine is produced by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate winery that is run by two long-time friends, Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, who are behind Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine of Deux Roches is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé to the north of the Saint-Véran AOC, and specializes in the production of Chardonnay wines in the Mâconnais style. Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", gets its name from the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area.

Deux Roches' story begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé to farm the land with various crops, including grapevines, and produce goat's cheese. Joanny was a simple tenant farmer and produced some wine on the property, while letting merchants take care of selling the wine. In 1940, Collovray's wines were mentioned in the press for their quality. In 1956, Henri Collovray, son of Joanny, took over the property and extended the family's vineyard holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Christian Collovray, son of Henri, began working the vines and, eventually, gave up animal farming to solely focus on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. His son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture, and crossed paths with his childhood friend and neighbour, Christian Collovray. Together, Christian and Jean-Luc shared a love for vines and wines, a bond which grew even closer when they married sisters Brigitte and Florence, who were from a family of winegrowers.

Today, with the next generation joining the family business, Deux Roches is recognized for producing great wines that respect terroir and tradition, at relatively accessible prices. With agricultural roots, they know that everything begins in the vineyard as they work the soil and have respect for the vegetation. Perfection is the objective, while also recognizing that adapting to the year's weather conditions is also necessary. Sustainability is also a core value of Collovray et Terrier as they minimize inputs and use natural processes to stimulate the plants’ own natural defences to control pests and disease. The families also protect and encourage biodiversity, with one of these projects revolving around having beehives on the property in Davayé. Other initiatives in reducing their environmental impact include minimizing the use of water in the cellar and controlling waste disposal, and limiting the use of energy from non-renewable sources.

This white wine is from Deux Roches' top-tier Parcel Selections range - single vineyard wines that are the expression of a specific place with a unique character. Since the beginning, Collovray & Terrier have sought to produce wines that express the individual characteristics of each of their parcels, with their extraordinary organoleptic potential. For the Parcel Selections range, they employ all the techniques and skills available to them, such as hand harvesting and lengthy barrel ageing, to allow the terroir to speak of the superb complexity conferred by the wines' origins.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine were grown on a 0.81 hectare plot located in the town of Davayé, on the hillside of the Roche de Solutré. The vines are north-facing, on a 30% slope, and planted between 1975 and 1983 on marly soil that is moderately deep, and is made up of chalk on the surface. The grapes were manually harvested and gently loaded into the pneumatic presses by gravity, followed by long pressing cycles in order to preserve the aromatic finesse. The must was cold-stabilized, then decanted and placed into barrels for fermentation. The wine was aged for 19 months, of which 11 months were in barrels, followed by 8 months in vats.

In 2021, the growing season in Burgundy was challenging due to the season beginning with a hard winter frost, followed by pests and disease which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. Summer was cool-ish, while the wine quality was determined by hard work in the vineyard and at the winery. In challenging vintages, the best vignerons can still produce delicious and harmonious wines exhibiting freshness, energy, elegance, and finesse. Let's see how this 2021 single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES LES POMMARDS SAINT-VÉRAN 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#37919) (XD) - $50.95
This single vineyard Chardonnay has richly elegant, medium-high intensity, and developing aromas of stone and orchard fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle, apple, and pear, plus floral, vanilla, oak spice, and flinty mineral, and hints of mushroom add intrigue and great complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with rich and lovely honeyed, nutty, vanilla oak spice flavours surrounding a core of ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, nectarine, and floral. It's nicely textured with very good structure and juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Still somewhat youthful on the structured and textured finish with tangy stone fruit and flinty mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Should drink beautifully into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label and can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white wine that I first tasted just over a year ago and am delighted to see it arrive at the LCBO as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive and available at 17 stores in Ontario right now.

Deux Roches is the Burgundy winery of Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé, and focuses mainly on white wines made with Chardonnay in the Mâconnais style.

The story of Deux Roches, which means "Two Rocks", begins in 1928 when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé, a few kilometres west of Mâcon, in the south of Burgundy. He farmed the land, made goat cheese, and grew various crops, including vines. As a simple tenant farmer, he made some wine on the property and the merchants took care of selling it, and in 1940, Collovray was mentioned in the press for the quality of his work. In 1956, his son, Henri Collovray, took over the property and extended the family's vine holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Henri's son, Christian, began working the vines and later gave up animal farming to focus solely on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines. Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and always worked alongside local winegrowers. Growing up in this environment, Léon's son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture. Jean-Luc crossed paths along the way with Christian, his neighbour and childhood friend, and together they shared a love of the vines and wines.

Christian and Jean-Luc's bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who were also from a family of winegrowers. The two couples had a dream to create an estate together to make wines from Christian and his father's vines, and in 1986 the dream became a reality. The vines were grouped around the two rocks of Vergisson and Solutré, which led to the name "Deux Roches". From the beginning, each member of the two families played a role, with Christian tending the vines, Jean-Luc responsible for the cellar and sales, and both Brigitte and Florence first worked the vines, then looked after bottling, and finally devoting themselves to administrative and commercial matters as the business grew.

In 2009, Julien Collovray, son of Christian and Brigitte, joined the family business following his studies in viticulture, oenology, law, and economics, and various experiences at other wine estates. In 2012, Caroline Collovray, Julien's wife, also joined the estate as an oenologist with experience in several estates. In 2019, Pierre-Alexis Terrier, son of Jean-Luc and Florence, returned to the Domaine after completing his studies abroad and working in the vines and the cellar at both Davayé and Antugnac in Languedoc.

The philosophy at Deux Roches is to craft wines that express the unique terroirs of the Mâconnais, while working the soil and respecting the vegetation. Their goal is to have perfection, which means mastering each step from the vineyard to bottle, and includes adapting to the year's weather conditions by evolving and experimenting with each parcel. Since 2017, Deux Roches has earned High Environmental Certification for their commitment to the environment, where they use natural processes and minimize inputs to anticipate disease and manage the vineyard, while also promoting and encouraging biodiversity. Collovray et Terrier also work to have the least possible environmental impact in the cellar, including minimizing the use of water and limiting energy use from non-renewable sources.

Domaine des Deux Roches has two lines of wines within their portfolio - the Timeless Collection and the single vineyard Parcel Selections. The Timeless Collection of wines are exemplary, accessible, and made for drinking and sharing with enjoyment for immediate pleasure. The Timeless Collection wines are blended from several vineyards and aged in stainless steel or oak. The aim of the Timeless Collection is to give true expression of the appellations, while also corresponding to their vision of the Mâconnais style - great classics that never cease to please!

This white wine is from Deux Roches' Timeless Collection. It is 100% Chardonnay from 60 to 100-year-old vines grown on the estate and from selected parcels grown by long-standing partner winegrowers who are friends and family. The vines are planted on mainly limestone clay hillsides near the Rocks of Solutré and Vergisson, and also at Chaintré and Fuissé. The selection of grapes from these sites allows Collovray et Terrier to produce a delicate, mineral wine, with bright and refined aromas, as well as a rich, solid structure. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested and gravity-fed into pneumatic presses. Pressing is long and slow to ensure that the juice is delicately extracted and to preserve aromatic finesse. The resulting must is cooled and decanted, followed by alcoholic fermentation in barrel, with 20% in 600 L demi-muids, and less than 10% is new wood, followed by ageing on its fine lees until spring. Inputs are restricted during the entire process, including the use of sulphur dioxide.

The 2021 vintage was a challenging one in Burgundy that began with a hard winter frost, along with pests and disease that wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. It was a cool-ish summer, with wine quality determined by hard work in the vineyard and winery. Let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#488825) (XD) - $49.95
100% Chardonnay. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes a while to reveal the maturing, earthy, stony mineral aromas mingling with baked apple, lemon peel, and whiffs of mushroom and nut. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is deliciously flavoured, structured, and complex with lovely orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, white peach and spice flavours backed by nutty notes and a stony mineral core. It has zesty, well-structured acidity, while stony-leesy mineral, orchard fruit, citrus, and mushroom notes with touches of spice lingering on the long, crisp, and very juicy finish. An intriguing wine to enjoy on its own or with poultry and seafood over the next 3-4 years. Recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Omrah Crossing Chardonnay 2023 (Western Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Great Southern, Western Australia, that arrived at the LCBO in the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 7th.

Located in the Great Southern wine region of Western Australia, Omrah Wines are produced by Plantagenet Wines, a wine producer that was established in 1968 by Tony Smith. Plantagenet produced its first vintage in 1974 and purchased an apple packing shed in Mount Barker and converted it to the region's first winery cellar.

The Omrah Wines label was established in 1996 and focuses on producing fresh, fruit-driven wines with minimal oak influence. The story of Omrah wines begins with the best parcels of grapes from Western Australia's wine regions, where the rich and diverse terroir provides the perfect canvas for crafting exceptional wines. The vineyards in Western Australia benefit from an idyllic climate with warm days and cool nights, which ensure that the grapes develop a perfect balance of acidity and flavour. In this unique environment, Omrah wines are produced in a fresh, contemporary style that is as vibrant as the land from which they come. Omrah wines are produced for those who appreciate the art of casual elegance, such as a relaxed beach picnic, a lively backyard barbecue, or an intimate dinner with friends.

The name "Omrah" is believed to be inspired by a maritime exploration and travel ship that sailed between Australia and England during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with Omrah chosen to reflect the spirit of exploration and discovery to uncover and express the cool-climate varietals of Western Australia's Great Southern region. The grapes for Omrah wines are responsibly sourced from some of the best vineyards in Western Australia and crafted by the winemaking team at Plantagenet Wines. Embracing freshness, vibrancy, and balance, Omrah wines are designed to be enjoyed now. With seven wines in the portfolio, Omrah has a wine for every occasion.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in the Great Southern wine region of Western Australia. The Great Southern is the largest region in Australia and one of the nine regions of Western Australia. It is situated southeast of Perth and contains five distinct sub-regions. As the second-largest producer of grapes in Western Australia, the Great Southern has a landscape of forested cliffs and resplendent mountain ranges, grazing pastures and towns steeped in history. The climate in Great Southern is cool-temperate and strongly influenced by its proximity to the Southern Ocean. There is plenty of rainfall, even during the hottest Australian summer, while daytime temperatures are moderated by the cool, evening sea breeze. The high diurnal temperature range between warm days and cool nights in Great Southern allows for the maximum retention of acidity and varietal expression to create complex wines. Details are light on the vinification methods used to craft this wine, but after undergoing alcoholic fermentation, it also underwent minimal malolactic fermentation and spent minimal time in oak.

The 2023 growing season in Great Southern was characterized by a warmer than average March, which aided ripening just prior to harvest. At the beginning of the growing season, Mount Barker had a cool and wet winter, which ensured ample moisture for budburst and early season growth. Early spring rains delayed flowering and fruit set, while healthy vine canopies were well-balanced and healthy. Growing conditions were perfect from December to February, with clear blue skies, warmer temperatures, and cool, clear nights. By the time harvest season arrived in March, phenological ripening stages of the vineyards were back to normal and helped deliver great aromatic intensity in white grape varieties. From an overall successful vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Great Southern is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

OMRAH CROSSING CHARDONNAY 2023 - Great Southern, Western Australia (#17644) (XD) - $21.95
Screw cap. The fragrant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose delivers white peaches & cream, ripe stone & orchard fruit, and apple aromas accented with vanilla and touches of cashew nut and earthy mineral. On the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is dry and lightly honeyed with delicious ripe apple, stone & orchard fruit, white peach, vanilla, and oak spice flavours. It has bright and lively acidity, while the stone & orchard fruit notes taper to cashew and earthy mineral flavours on the crisp, juicy, and long-lasting finish. Enjoyable now, but will reward with 1-2 years in the cellar. Enjoy this recommended buy over next 4-5 years. Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely Omrah Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Airen Imports.

Read More

Catena Appellation Tupungato Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, high-altitude Chardonnay from Tupungato in Argentina that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the September 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Catena Zapata, one of Argentina's most prestigious and renowned winemaking families. A pioneer in Argentine winemaking, the Catena family also has a long history of viticulture and winemaking that goes back over a century.

Bodega Catena Zapata was established in 1902 by Nicola Catena when he planted his first Malbec vineyard in Mendoza. At the time, Malbec was used primarily as a blending grape, but Nicola suspected that it would find its hidden splendour in the Argentine Andes. His eldest son, Domingo, inherited his father's dream and took the family business to another level, becoming one of Mendoza's largest vineyard holders.

In the 1960s, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Domingo's son and a recent PhD graduate, took over the family winery after years of turmoil due to a downturn in the Argentine economy and soaring inflation rates. The name Zapata comes from Nicolás' paternal grandmother's ancestors, who were a traditional landowning family dating back to colonial times, and by Argentine custom, Zapata follows Catena in Nicolás's full name. In the early 1980s, Nicolás got the opportunity to become a visiting scholar of economics at the University of California, on the world-renowned campus at Berkeley. During this period, California decided to challenge France by creating Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay wines that could rival the best French wines. This provided Nicolás and his wife, Elena, with inspiration, so that when he returned to Mendoza, he sold his bulk wine table-wine producing company and focused on producing fine wine. In 1992, the Catena family settled in Gualtallary Alto - the highest and westernmost spot in Tupungato, at 5,000 feet above sea level, an area that is cool, but well-protected from frost by the nearby mountains. The vineyard, which is named after his youngest daughter - Adrianna - has a slight slope and a small hill.

Today, Bodega Catena Zapata is led by Dr. Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolás, and the 4th generation of the family, along with talented Winemaker Alejandro Vigil. Catena Zapata is known for being one of the first Argentine wineries to introduce modern viticultural and winemaking techniques to the country, as well as for its commitment to innovation, quality, and sustainability. Catena wines are produced from six historic family estate vineyards and each of these vineyards is divided into parcels according to their soil composition, with each parcel farmed individually. Nearly all of Catena's vineyards are farmed sustainably and organically, focusing on lower yields and biodiversity.

Like the 2019 Catena Appellation Tupungato Chardonnay I enjoyed just over three years ago, this white wine is crafted using Chardonnay that was grown in the high-altitude Tupungato sub-region of northern Uco Valley. Over two decades ago, Nicolás Catena Zapata selected the Tupungato appellation to plant the family's Chardonnay vineyards. Situated between 4,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level in the foothills of the Andes mountains, the Tupungato appellation has pebble-covered soils and extreme cool nights. Catena's Tupungato Vineyard is located at about 1,450 metres (4,750 feet) above sea level and has soil of alluvial origin, with gravel and limestone, rounded rocks at the bottom, and sandy loam. To vinify this wine, the grapes undergo cold settling for 8-24 hours at 5ºC (41ºF), followed by a 25 to 45 day fermentation. After fermentation, the wine spends 4 to 10 months in contact with its fine lees in 100% French oak, 35% new.

The 2022 growing season at Catena Zapata was exceptional, producing wines with optimal acidity, great concentration and ripeness of polyphenols, and just-right alcohol levels. While the growing season was like a roller-coaster year with two big frosts, a shorter harvest period, and unpredictable weather patterns, the team at Catena persevered with great dedication and endurance while using their deep knowledge of every region and vineyard. Winter was milder than usual, while glacial water played an important role because spring and summer were especially dry with rain 15-40% less than usual in most areas. Spring frosts were remedied by lighting anti-frost cans. Yields were down 10-20% by harvest time, while cooler than usual autumn temperatures allowed the grapes to ripen slowly and fully. From a challenging vintage, let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CATENA APPELLATION TUPUNGATO CHARDONNAY 2022 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#10964) (XD) - $19.95
The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers bright lemon citrus and ripe apple-pear aromas nuanced with vanilla, earthy mineral, and hints of butterscotch and tropical fruit notes. On the rich, dry, medium-full bodied palate it has delicious lemon citrus, apple-pear, vanilla, and mineral replays, plus some spice flavours. It's well-structured with tight and juicy acidity. Citrus and apple notes taper to savoury minerals on the long, crisp finish. Has room to develop further and should drink well over the next 5 years. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Many other fine wines by Catena Zapata can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Trius Showcase Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara that was featured in the piece on Local Talent in the recent July 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It will be available at the LCBO once the strike ends, but can be ordered directly today from the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake or via The Wine Shop.

It is produced by Trius Winery, a Canadian wine industry game changer that was established by Hillebrand Estates in 1979. Initially, the Trius brand at Hillebrand only consisted of one wine - the Trius Red - a wine that received international acclaim after it was recognized as the Best Red Wine in the World in 1991. This recognition marked an important step in the Canadian wine industry as it meant that Canadian wines could stand on their own against wines from other top wine-producing regions.

While the Trius Red continues to be recognized as one of Canada's most iconic wines, the portfolio has grown to include several other ranges and many top wines, including sparkling wines, white wines, and Icewine. In 2007, Hillebrand was acquired by Andrew Peller Limited, and in 2012, the Hillebrand Winery property was renovated and born as Trius Winery to become one of Niagara-on-the-Lake's top wine destinations.

With renowned Winemaker Craig MacDonald leading the winemaking team, Trius has evolved to become a world-class winery with roots, while also noting that the heart and soul of all Trius wines come from the one-of-a-kind vineyards where they grow their grapes. Major factors that lead to high-quality grapes include the sun-soaked shale that the vines sink their roots into, as well as convection currents from Lake Ontario that cool down the hot, summer nights. At Trius, they celebrate the connection between the land and their wines, and it is at the heart of everything in creating iconic Canadian wines for everyone to enjoy.

This particular white wine is from Trius' Showcase range of wines which are crafted using the best hand-selected fruit from the best vineyards, and often from a single vineyard and a single barrel. Showcase wines showcase the character of the soil and the distinct personality of the individual vineyard. These collectible, age-worthy wines are crafted in an unrushed approach with innovative winemaking techniques in very limited quantities, which show Trius' exemplary passion for making great wines that is on full display in every Trius Showcase bottle of wine.

This beautiful white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in the Watching Tree Vineyard situated in the VQA Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation of Niagara. Lincoln Lakeshore has long, gentle slopes which are highly influenced by Lake Ontario, a long temperate growing season, and numerous seasonal streams. The lake effect makes Lincoln Lakeshore ideal for growing white wine varieties that can fully mature on the vine over a long period, producing wines with great intensity, complexity, structure, and elegance. The Watching Tree Vineyard is named after the lone tree that stands tall alongside the vineyard, like a protector watching over the vines. This vineyard was once an ancient riverbed and was planted in 1989 with clone 95 and 96 Chardonnay vines on stony, pebbly soil. To craft this Chardonnay, the grapes were hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed. The juice was cold settled in tank, then sent directly to barrel for wild yeast fermentation. The wine was aged "sur lie" for 10 months in 225L French oak barriques, 20% new.

The 2020 growing season delivered near-perfect growing conditions, one of the best ever by all accounts, with white wine varieties having surprisingly great acidity. From this exceptional vintage, let's see how this 2020 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TRIUS SHOWCASE WILD FERMENT CHARDONNAY 2020 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#199273) (XD) - $38.00
Lovely, perfumed, and highly aromatic nose of ripe apple, lemon citrus, tropical fruit, smoky oak, and buttery aromas with touches of spice, coffee, roasted nuts, and flinty mineral adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is gently spicy with lemon citrus, ripe apple, toasty oak spice, butter, and nutty oak flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, along with lovely textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Refined and elegant with flinty mineral and toasty notes lingering on the dry finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Trius Winery can be purchased directly from the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, at The Wine Shop locations across Ontario, or LCBO outlets once they re-open.

Read More

Deep Woods Margaret River Chardonnay 2023 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Margaret River in Western Australia. It is brand-new to the LCBO and arrived on shelves across the province as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on June 8th.

It is produced by Deep Woods Estate, a Margaret River gem that was established in 1987 by Dr. Thomas Cullity. The founder was a fan of the popular comic "Phantom" and named the winery Deep Woods, a fictitious location from the comic, while also designing the logo based on the Phantom ring. In 1992, Deep Woods was acquired by the Gould family.

In 2005, Deep Woods Estate was purchased by the Fogarty family, a wine group currently run by Peter and Lee Fogarty, and is one of a number of wine estates owned by Fogarty Wine Group. Under the guidance of the Fogarty group, Deep Woods has been transformed into one of Margaret River's most highly regarded wineries. Wine production at Deep Woods is based on a combination of traditional philosophy using modern techniques. The talented team is led by Chief Winemaker Julian Langworthy, who produces wines of prestige and provenance.

The Estate is situated in the heart of the Yallingup Hills in Margaret River, Western Australia, perched high on a ridge overlooking the valley and surrounded by large jarrah and marri trees. The terroir in this area is unique with soils that are comprised of deep, sandy gravels over clay, as well as a dual maritime influence from both the Indian Ocean and Geographe Bay - factors that contribute to this world-class wine region.

After being acquired by the Fogarty family, the vineyards were re-worked and a new maintenance program was introduced to utilize sustainable vineyard practices to improve fruit quality and produce small, higher-quality yields. As of 2024, Deep Woods' vineyards are certified sustainable under Sustainable Winegrowing Australia, a process which has led to outstanding fruit and superior wines, including award-winning Chardonnay that is processed and bottled in small batches on-site. Sustainable viticultural practices, together with Margaret River's exceptional and unique terroir, help deliver high-quality fruit year after year, which is then used to craft high quality wines across a number of ranges in the pursuit of excellence.

This white wine is from Deep Woods' Estate range of wines that display individual varietal character and represent incredible value in the Margaret River wine region. Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the fruit was sourced from vineyards across the Margaret River wine region. It was fermented using wild yeast and left to mature on its lees for six months in new and seasoned French oak to impart great texture and length.

The 2023 growing season in Margaret River began with a mild spring with adequate soil moisture, which resulted in a slightly later start to the season. The moderate summer led to ideal ripening conditions, with little pressure in the vineyard, including the lack of any major rain events. Consistently warm days and cool evenings allow for great acid retention within the grapes, while also achieving optimal fruit expression. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2023 Margaret River Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEEP WOODS MARGARET RIVER CHARDONNAY 2023 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#33569) (XD) - $19.95
Screw cap. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose leads with smoky, mineral, barrel-influenced aromas layered over apple, pear, orchard fruit, lemon citrus, nutty, and leesy notes. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is more fruit forward with ripe apple, pear, lemon citrus flavours mingling with smoky oak, leesy mineral, and spice notes, plus a tinge of honey adding further complexity. It's nicely balanced with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel, with some sense of elegance. Acids are juicy and succulent. Leesy mineral notes linger on the long, savoury finish. Enjoy to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

One other lovely wine by Deep Woods Estate can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

Read More

PHI Chardonnay 2021 (Yarra Valley) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2019 De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay last month, we go up a notch with tonight's white wine review - a fantastic single vineyard Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley in Victoria. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO, arriving a few months ago in the March 2 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is still available for purchase Online and in-person at Flagship Exclusive locations.

It is produced by De Bortoli Wines, one of Australia's leading family-owned wine companies. De Bortoli Wines was established in 1928 after Vittorio De Bortoli, an Italian immigrant from Treviso, arrived in New South Wales to discover that the flat plains and red earth were very different compared to his homeland and purchased a 55 acre mixed fruit farm. That same year, there was a glut of Shiraz grapes in the region and Vittorio was able to get 15 tonnes of Shiraz grapes for free since other farmers preferred to let them rot. Vittorio's wine was very popular among local Italians and other Europeans in the area, and they wanted to buy the wine off him. With this first of many successes, Vittorio established De Bortoli Wines.

Vittorio married his fiancée, Giuseppina, on the farm a year later, and the 1930s brought the second generation of the De Bortoli family with the births of Florrie, Deen, and Eola. The family business continued to grow over the years, while Deen left school (against his parents' wishes) at the age of 15 in 1951 to work at the family winery, and by 1957 he was itching to modernize it. In 1958, Deen married Emeri Cunial and the third generation of the De Bortoli family arrived with the births of Darren, Leanne, Kevin, and Victor. Deen was instrumental in expanding the family business during the 1970s, and in 1987, De Bortoli expanded into Yarra Valley, Victoria. In 1990, De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate was established and led by Leanne De Bortoli and her husband, Steve Webber, and together they welcomed the 4th generation of the family. Their daughter, Kate Webber, joined the family wine business and is the winemaker for this Chardonnay.

This particular white wine is from De Bortoli's PHI range of wines. PHI is the 21st letter of the Ancient Greek alphabet and symbolizes balance, harmony, and proportion. Similarly, with PHI wines, the third and fourth generations of the De Bortoli family are working together to create Single Vineyard wines that give proportion to climate, soil, and maker.

The Yarra Valley is one of Australia's premier cool climate wine regions and is located approximately 50 km northeast of Melbourne, near the towns of Yarra Glen and Healesville. This Chardonnay was grown at the Lusatia Park Vineyard in the town of Woori Yallock, one of the most iconic single vineyard sites in the Yarra Valley. The Lusatia Park Vineyard was purchased from the Shelmerdine family in 2016 and forms part of De Bortoli's plans to establish iconic vineyards to produce single plot fine wines. The 18 hectare, north-facing vineyard was first planted in 1985 at an altitude of 240 metres, while the soil is deep decomposed basalt that is quite rich in iron.

To craft this lovely Chardonnay, the grapes were hand-harvested in mid-to-late March, whole-bunch pressed, and allowed to settle overnight. The juice was then racked into older French oak casks where it underwent natural fermentation. The wine was then left on its yeast lees for 9 months, with occasional stirring.

It was a classic, cooler growing season in Yarra Valley and Lusatia Park in 2021. Spring featured timely rain, while ripening season temperatures tracked long-term averages. From a good-to-excellent vintage that featured idyllic growing conditions, let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Yarra Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PHI CHARDONNAY 2021 - Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#33567) (XD) - $33.95
Vegan-friendly and enclosed by screw cap. The fragrant, perfumed, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers lovely saline minerality aromas layered over green apple, lemon citrus, pear, savoury earth, and subtle spice notes. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has a creamy mouthfeel with lovely green apple, lemon citrus, and saline mineral flavours joined by accents of almond and mealy notes on the back palate. It's supported by fresh, lively, and slightly tangy acidity. A touch spicy on the mid-palate with a finely textured mouthfeel, while saline mineral, citrus, and apple notes linger on the long, balanced, and savoury finish. Enjoy to the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

The Estate Vineyard Chardonnay is still available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Tenuta Iuzzolini Madre Goccia 2022 (Calabria) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely blend of Greco Bianco and Chardonnay that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on May 11.

It is produced by Tenuta Iuzzolini, a family-owned estate winery that was founded in 2004 by Fortunato Iuzzolini and his wife Giovanna Colicchio. The couple's love and passion was passed down to their four sons, who are also now part of the estate. Tenuta Iuzzolini is situated in Cirò, a small Calabrian town with Greek roots along the Ionian coast of Crotone. The Estate covers over 500 hectares of land, with 100 hectares dedicated to vineyards, 50 hectares of centuries-old olive groves, 100 hectares of arable land, and the remainder made up of pastures and woods for livestock that is raised in the wild.

The calling card of Tenuta Iuzzolini is to make quality wines. In order to realize this, they use grapes from over 500 hectares of vineyards, 100 hectares of which are situated within the Cirò DOC territory, with the remaining located in IGT Calabria, within the localities of Timpa Bianca, La Motta, and Niballo. The fertile soils where the vineyards are planted have a clayey and sandy limestone origin, and are rich in natural springs. Blessed with a Mediterranean climate, the entire area is hot with dry summers, and short, rainy winters, which provide the ideal conditions for cultivating grapevines and olive trees.

Tenuta Iuzzolini's cellar is located in the charming town of Cirò Marina and represents a unique and exceptional reality of its kind. Their cellar is the ideal place where history embraces innovation, and where tradition meets modernity. The outside structure was built with original materials from the Crotone area - original local stones, tiles, and bricks, without altering the original conformation of the territory. On the inside, the cellar makes use of high-tech and the latest systems, which are constantly renewed, including the use of stainless steel containers and high-efficiency machinery which help guarantee the use of cutting-edge winemaking methods. Day-after-day, Tenuta Iuzzolini takes care of wine production down to the smallest details with great meticulousness. Their wine laboratory is constantly analyzing the grapes and wine, from vineyard to bottle, while complying with mandatory hygiene and health regulations and protocols.

This white wine is a blend of Greco Bianco, Calabria's powerhouse white grape variety, and Chardonnay. The grapes were grown in the locality of Motta, Carfizzi, within the central-eastern part of the province of Crotone, in the region of Calabria. Situated at an altitude between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, the grapevines are planted on clayey, calcareous soil in a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot, dry summers. After manually harvesting the grapes, they were destemmed and gently pressed, with a yield of free-run must for 60% of the grapes. It was vinified and matured in steel, with further maturation taking place in bottle at a controlled temperature. Let's see how this 2022 Greco/Chardonnay white wine blend from Calabria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA IUZZOLINI MADRE GOCCIA 2022 - IGT Calabria, Italy (#36512) (D) - $22.95
This blend of Greco Bianco and Chardonnay has a lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of pretty spring flowers and ripe lemon citrus aromas followed orchard fruit, apple, and touches of leesy minerality. On the medium+ bodied palate it has sunny and ripe tropical & orchard fruit, apple, grapefruit, lemon citrus, herbs, honeysuckle, floral, and mild spice characters in a dry-ish flavour profile. There's a kiss of sweetness, but it's kept in check by the bright and refreshing acidity. Well-balanced and refreshing with spice notes tapering to mineral on the long, juicy, and dry finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Tenuta Iuzzolini can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

Read More

De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is another fine Chardonnay from Australia. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves across Ontario last month as part of the March 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by De Bortoli Wines, one of Australia's leading family-owned wine companies. Their story begins when Italian immigrant Vittorio De Bortoli journeyed from Castelcucco in Treviso to New South Wales and discovered that the flat plains and red earth are very different to his homeland. His fiancée, Giuseppina, arrived in Australia a couple of years later, and in 1928 Vittorio purchased a 55 acre mixed fruit farm. In 1928, there was a glut of Shiraz grapes and many farmers saw it as cheaper to let them rot. Instead, Vittorio took them for free and crushed 15 tonnes of Shiraz grapes. The resulting wine was very popular among local Italians and other European workers in the area as they offered to buy the wine off him. Thus, the creation of De Bortoli Wines, with Vittorio and Giuseppina getting married on the farm a year later.

The 1930s brought the second generation of the family - Florrie, Deen and Eola - and also brought high demand for De Bortoli Wines as train loads of 270 litre barrels were transported to Sydney and Queensland. The family business continued to grow over the years, and in 1951, against his parents' wishes, Deen left school at the age of 15 to begin working at the family winery. By 1957, Deen was now itching to modernize the production facility. In 1958, Deen marries Emeri Cunial and the third generation of the De Bortoli family arrived in the 1960s with the births of Darren, Leanne, Kevin, and Victor.

Deen De Bortoli was instrumental in expanding the family business (normally when his dad was out of town and unaware!) during the 1970s, during Australia's first major wine boom. As a newly qualified winemaker in 1982, Deen created the highly acclaimed Noble One - a wine that has won numerous awards over the years.

In 1987, De Bortoli expanded into Yarra Valley, Victoria, where this wine is from, by purchasing an existing winery and vineyard. De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate was established in 1990 and led by Leanne De Bortoli and her husband, Stephen (aka Steve), who is also a winemaker. Together, they welcomed the 4th generation of the De Bortoli family, and in 2007 Steve Webber was awarded Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine’s Winemaker of the Year.

Today, De Bortoli has grown to become one of Australia's largest and most respected wine producers, and is renowned for its commitment to quality winemaking, innovative practices, and sustainability. By the 2010s, De Bortoli made great strides in their sustainability initiatives and goal to become a "zero-waste" winery, while earning their first of many accolades for its achievements in sustainability that same decade. De Bortoli goes well beyond the mandatory requirements and is driven by both philosophical and pragmatic factors, but mostly by their desire to leave a legacy for future generations.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown at the Estate Vineyard in Yarra Valley. The Estate Vineyard consists of a series of small plots of mature Chardonnay, with the oldest vines planted in 1976 and the youngest planted in 1994. These small plots are located within a few hundred metres of each other and consistently produce the finest, most detailed wines on the Estate. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested over 8 days beginning on the 19th of February, then whole-bunch pressed and allowed to settle for 4-6 hours. The juice was then racked to new and used French oak cask where it underwent natural fermentation. The lees were stirred in late Autumn, and the wine was then left to rest on its lees until November.

The growing season during 2019 was warm and early with timely rain. The conditions were very good and resulted in grapes with good, natural acidity and balanced flavours. Let's see how this 2019 Chardonnay from Yarra Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DE BORTOLI ESTATE VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2019 - Dixons Creek, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#33565) (XD) - $23.95
This vegan-friendly, 100% Chardonnay is barrel-fermented and aged, and enclosed by screw cap. The fresh, medium-high intensity nose offers lovely pear, apple, and buttery aromas with accents of lemon citrus and flinty minerality. It has good weight on the dry, medium-full bodied palate with spicy flavours of pear, apple, gentle oak spice, butter, and lemon citrus. It has a crisp, textured mouthfeel with good structure and very good, juicy acidity, while leesy mineral notes linger on the crisp and lengthy finish. Will provide pleasure over the next 4-5 years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other fine wines by De Bortoli Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Mountadam Five-Fifty Chardonnay 2020 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious Eden Valley Chardonnay from Australia that arrived at the LCBO earlier this year as part of the January 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Mountadam Vineyards, a winery that was established in 1972 by the late David Wynn. David was one of the most significant contributors to the Australian Wine Industry as he was the first to recognize the potential of a cool, elevated site to produce Australian wines of great elegance and structure. Wynn searched across Australia for a vineyard site that met his expectations and eventually settled in an area high above the township of Eden Valley, within a sub-region that was formally recognized in 2001 as High Eden. The area of High Eden is oval-shaped and covers 40 square kilometres, and is situated in the highest areas of the Eden Valley. David named his first vineyard after his son, Adam, who became the company's winemaker in 1984.

Mountadam Vineyards' logo was created when David Wynn brought his artist friend Tate Adams to the property, so he could get inspiration to come up with a design for the wine label. As they were walking on the property, two eagles were circling above and Wynn told Adams that they were nesting in a tree on the property. Following this visit, Adams designed and made two engravings incorporating the eagle.

Today, Mountadam Vineyards is in the hands of David and Jenni Brown, who acquired the winery and 80 hectares of vineyards from LMVH in 2005. In 2015, the Brown's purchased the Treasury Wine Estates High Eden vineyard, which included 67 hectares of vines, and allowed them to re-assemble the Mountadam property of over 1,000 hectares. The Brown's share David Wynn's vision for sustainability and have invested significantly in redeveloping the winery and vineyards with items such as open fermenters, filtration, solar power, and water treatment. The Brown family is keen on continuing Wynn's vision to produce wines of elegance and structure, while also focusing on sustainable, low input viticulture that will guarantee the success of the vineyards and farm into the future.

This white wine is part of Mountadam's Five-Fifty range, which is named after the Estate's altitude of 550 metres above sea level. While all Mountadam wines are sourced exclusively from their Estate, which has 147 hectares of vines, the wines in the Five-Fifty range are crafted to offer amazing quality for the price. This Chardonnay is crafted using Mountadam's original 1970s plantings, with 87% of the fruit from Blocks 22, 15, and 29 on the Estate's eastern side, and 13% from Block 57, which is situated on the western side. 60% of this wine was matured in French oak barriques for 1 year, with only 10% new, while the remaining 40% was tank fermented and aged in stainless steel.

In Eden Valley, the drought conditions during the growing season in 2020 resulted in very low yields. Although it was a challenging vintage, the warm conditions helped produce grapes of excellent quality, which resulted in wines of exceptional quality, particularly Chardonnay. Let's see how this 2020 Eden Valley Chardonnay from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MOUNTADAM FIVE-FIFTY CHARDONNAY 2020 - Eden Valley, South Australia (#22984) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap. The rich, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers buttery, vanilla, apple, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of butterscotch and oak spice. It's dry, medium+ bodied and quite spicy on the lively palate with buttery, apple/pear, lemon citrus, vanillin oak spice, and leesy mineral flavours. It is creamy, yet also has a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Acids are crisp and juicy. Buttery, apple, and citrus notes give way to leesy minerals on the lengthy finish. Chill and enjoy this recommended buy! Score: 88 pts

Small quantities of other Mountadam wines can be found at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

Read More

Elderton Eden Valley Chardonnay 2022 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from the Eden Valley in South Australia that landed at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the March 16th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Elderton Wines, a renowned winery whose story begins in 1894, when early German settlers, the Scholz family, first planted a vineyard on the banks of the North Para River in Nuriootpa. In 1916, it was purchased by Samuel Elderton Tolley, and he named the Estate "Elderton". Samuel built a sprawling homestead on the estate and sold the fruit to his family's winery. The estate was run successfully for many years until around 1975, when it became derelict and the vines were pulled out.

In 1980, the property was offered to Lorraine and Neil Ashmead - if they bought the house, the surrounding 72 acres of old vines could be had for nothing. The Ashmead's decided to accept the offer as the rambling old homestead looked ideal for a growing family, while also working tirelessly to salvage and restore the phenomenal treasure of a vineyard. In 1982, the Ashmead family produced the first wine made under the Elderton label. They prevailed through tough times, but ultimately the Ashmead's vision shone through and today Elderton is celebrated as a major reason for the rejuvenation of the Barossa Valley.

In 2003, the second generation of the family - brothers Cameron and Allister - took over the reins of the business. Together, they both believed very strongly in continuing the family traditions in the Nuriootpa vineyard. However, they wanted to take the family business to the next level by acquiring great vineyards in other significant sub-appellations of the Barossa. This white wine is from the Craneford vineyard, a great little vineyard in Eden Valley that was purchased in 2007.

Elderton has also taken a leadership role within the Australian wine industry with regard to environmental sustainability. They have proactively implemented a number of initiatives in the vineyard and at the winery to minimize their environmental footprint and promote a sustainable and environmentally responsible workplace. The hope is that through their sustainable practices, the next generation of the Ashmead family will have a lot to work with when they are at the helm.

The 2022 vintage of this white wine is the fourteenth release of this single site wine, and it always shows the typicity of the vineyard, while varying somewhat depending on what growing season brings. Elderton is on a constant learning journey with their vineyard and this wine, adapting to each season. This 100% Chardonnay is 100% Estate grown, from 30-year-old vines at Elderton's Eden Valley vineyard, just south of the small township of Craneford, within the Barossa Zone. The vineyard sits at an elevation of 420 metres, with the Chardonnay blocks planted at one of the highest points of the vineyard. The Eden Valley is generally wetter and cooler, with soils tending to be skeletal and minerally, while the aspect to the sun varies significantly with many rolling hills and valleys that provide site variation. The Eden Valley vineyard is tended to by their own viticulturists, Peter Wild and Conrad Pohlinger, who ensure that the utmost care is taken at every step of the vine cycle.

To craft this wine, the fruit was crushed and pressed off skins immediately upon arrival at the winery. The juice was cold settled and separated into two stainless steel fermenters, with each fermenter inoculated with a different yeast. After completing alcoholic fermentation, the wine was transferred into a combination of new and used French oak to undergo partial malolactic fermentation. Coupled with regular battonage for 8 months, maturation in oak helped build a creamy texture in the wine.

The growing season in 2022 began with ample winter rainfall, followed by a mild spring, which allowed for a great start to the season. Canopy development was decent and provided adequate protection and capacity to ripen the fruit. Short and frequent irrigation during the season ensured that the lean soil retained enough moisture, while a steady ripening season allowed for the retention of natural acidity. Overall, it was a cooler year that delivered good results. Let's see how this 2022 Eden Valley Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ELDERTON EDEN VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2022 - Single vineyard, Eden Valley, South Australia (#15054) (XD) - $23.95
Screw cap. Fragrant and intensely aromatic with rich, intriguing, and complex aromas that feature butter, nutty oak, flinty mineral, lemon curd, ripe apple, and citrus notes. It's dry, medium-full bodied and creamy on the palate with gently tart and tangy flavours that give way to butter, vanilla, nutty oak, gentle spice, apple, and citrus. It has fresh, lively acidity, plus some saline characters on the mid-palate, while leesy mineral, subtle spice, nut, and oak notes linger on the long, succulent finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 3-4 years. Score: 90+ pts

Other fine Elderton Wines are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Wakefield Estate Label Chardonnay 2022 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a perennially delicious Chardonnay from South Australia that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the February 3, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the renowned and well-respected Wakefield Wines. The family estate winery was established in 1969 by Bill Taylor Sr. and his two sons near the Wakefield River in Clare Valley, South Australia. After working as wine merchants, the Taylor family desired to have their own vineyards and create their own, authentic, and estate-grown wines. The Estate Label wines were the first wines established by the Taylor family, with the Chardonnay joining the range several years later.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by the third generation of the family - brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton - with a focus on continuing the family tradition of making delicious wines that stand the test of time. The family's philosophy is to produce wines sustainably and responsibly, while respecting the fruit and where it comes from. The family also has a strong innovative spirit, and one of their innovations is the Optimum Drinking Sensor that is located on the back label of their Estate Label and Promised Land wines, including this Estate Label Chardonnay.

While the 2021 Wakefield Estate Label Chardonnay was crafted with fruit predominantly from Padthaway, this vintage is composed of 51% Clare Valley fruit and 49% from the Limestone Coast zone. Padthaway is one of a number of wine regions situated within the Limestone Coast zone. The different parcels of fruit from both regions were kept separate during the vinification process. It was matured for 10 months in French oak, mostly 2- and 3-years-old, and then blended and bottled.

The 2022 growing season in Clare Valley produced fruit of both high-quality and quantity, with crops of all varieties basking in mild, sunny days with no rain or humidity. It was a beautiful, idyllic vintage of uninterrupted weather that was more typical of the better vintages of the 80s and 90s. Growing conditions across the Limestone Coast zone were mostly good, with yields in Padthaway slightly below average due to mild and dry conditions. Let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from South Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD ESTATE LABEL CHARDONNAY 2022 - Clare Valley / Limestone Coast, South Australia (#711556) (XD) - $16.95
Screw cap. The fragrant, open, and perfumed nose offers attractive aromas of ripe orchard fruit, apple, and pear nuanced with vanilla spice and lemon citrus, plus touches of banana and ripe tropical fruits adding further complexity. It has good weight on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with ripe apple, pear, lemon citrus, and vanilla spice flavours. It has a nicely textured mouthfeel and crisp, juicy acidity, while leesy mineral notes linger on the lengthy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Wakefield Wines are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

El Enemigo Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is one of my favourite Chardonnays from Argentina. While the printed magazine specifies the 2020 vintage, in actuality it was the 2022 vintage that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the theme on Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 2nd.

It is produced by El Enemigo Wines, a passion project that was established in 2008 by two friends - highly-acclaimed winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena. Alejandro is a soil expert who has been with Bodega Catena Zapata as their chief winemaker for more than 20 years, while Adrianna is the younger sister of Dr. Laura Catena, as well as the youngest daughter of legend Nicolas Catena, of the famed Catena family of Argentina.

The name "El Enemigo" means "the enemy", and was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy". The credo behind the name is the struggle that most defines us in our lives is the one we wage with ourselves - we are our own worst enemy. The philosophy is to embrace the "enemy" or challenges in winemaking, confronting the difficulties and turning them into opportunities for creating exceptional wines.

Today, El Enemigo is situated among the high-altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley and has gained a reputation for producing some of Argentina's finest wines. The wines of El Enemigo are enigmatic, charismatic, and verging on iconoclastic, and in a way they reflect their maker, Alejandro, with an almost Picasso-like personality. While he consults and contributes academic research on soils and microbial composition, with El Enemigo he plays and expresses himself creatively. At the same time, the wines of El Enemigo are sensitive to historical blends and traditions as some of the grapes come from some of the oldest vineyard sites in the region.

Like the 2018 El Enemigo Chardonnay that I enjoyed last year, this vintage was also grown in the region of Gualtallary, within the Tupungato district in the northern reaches of the Uco Valley, at a high-altitude of 1,470 metres (4,822 feet) above sea level on deep-calcareous and rocky soil. It was fermented using wild yeast in 500 L French oak barrels, with 35% new barrels, followed by ageing under veil (flor yeast) for 12 months in 500 L French oak barrels.

The 2022 growing season delivered another successful harvest, although the year did have its challenges. In Mendoza, the region began with a cool, dry spring, as well as little snowfall, which resulted in less water flowing down to a region already suffering from severe water shortages. Further challenges arrived when five frosts, some severe, occurred between October and November in the Uco Valley. The white grape varieties were a big challenge due to rain that arrived at the end of spring, between December and February, and was concentrated to a few weeks. However, if the harvest was done well, good quality with fresher wines is achieved. Let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $25.95
Using wild yeast, this was fermented and aged in French oak barrels. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is ripe and appealing with pineapple, banana, citrus, caramel, toffee, butter, and leesy flor aromas. It's mid-weighted with good concentration, well-structured, sweet fruited, yet dry, with delicious banana, pineapple, lemon citrus, apple, toffee/caramel, leesy flor, and buttery flavours in a complex profile with all vying for attention. Acids are crisp and fresh, plus a touch of spice notes on the mid-palate. The long finish is dry with lingering notes of smoke and mineral. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 4-5 years. Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by El Enemigo can found at the LCBO or through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

Read More

Pommery Pink POP Rosé Champagne (France) - Wine Review

Since it is the season for bubbly, tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious Champagne that is packaged in a convenient, wallet-friendly, and individually-sized Piccolo bottle of 200 mL. It was a brand-new arrival in the October 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - and still widely available - and makes a fine option for when you don't want to open a full 750 mL bottle.

It is produced by Champagne Pommery, a prestigious Champagne house with a rich history that was founded in 1836 by Alexandre Louis Pommery. However, it was only after his death in 1958, that his young widow, Madame Pommery, took over with a drive to conquer national and international markets by inventing the luxurious image of the Pommery brand and steering the Maison to success and glory.

One of the lasting legacies of Madame Pommery was the creation of the first vintage brut Champagne in 1874, a dry style of traditional method sparkling wine that was a revolution in Champagne during a time when the prevailing taste was sweet-toothed. The success of this wine led to a new dynasty in Champagne, while also establishing the fame and style of Maison Pommery.

Pommery has always challenged generally accepted ideas by imposing its innovative and avant-garde approach. During the 1930s, Maison Pommery launched a quartet of Veuve Pommery (VP) Champagne in a 200 mL format, an idea that was initially conceived by Marquis Melchior de Polignac, son of Madame Pommery, and contributed to the expansion of the Pommery brand to international markets.

Following the success of VP, Pommery was the first to launch the POP Champagne range of wines in 1999, which revolutionized the market for Champagne. Today, the Pommery POP range consists of POP (in a blue bottle), Pink POP (this bottle), and the Gold POP Vintage Champagne which is crafted from only classified Grand Cru vineyards. All three wines are packaged in Piccolo bottles and was the first Champagne especially blended to be consumed directly from the bottle or with a straw.

In keeping with the spirit of POP, Pink POP remains resolutely young and fresh, with a delicious flavour that is almost sensual. It was produced according to the same principals that Pommery holds so dearly in the production of its rosé wines - a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot wines, with a dash of red wine. Let's see how this Pink POP Rosé Champagne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

POMMERY PINK POP ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#16944) (D) (200 mL) - $19.95
Crafted with Chardonnay and Pinot, this has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of fine autolytic, toasty, and brioche characters accented with strawberry and cherry. There's an appealing kiss of sweetness on the cherry, strawberry, toasty, and brioche flavoured palate that is a touch spicy. It has crisp and lively acidity and bubbles, as well as some delicious autolytic notes on the mid-palate. The finish is long, dry, and crisp, with leesy mineral and very good length. A solid, recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Champagne Pommery are available at the LCBO, and through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

Read More