Hidden Bench Béton Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2022 Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé last month, tonight's white wine review is another lovely organic wine from the same producer. In fact, this is the first vintage for this wine and also brand new to the LCBO, arriving in-stores and online as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 5.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery is one of Niagara's leading boutique wineries. It was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family in Beamsville Bench when they acquired the Locust Lane vineyard. A year later, Hidden Bench purchased the Rosomel Vineyard, where this white wine was grown. Today, the focus at Hidden Bench is on artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards. Their philosophy is based on a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach. Hidden Bench has a long, well-established reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally, and their wines have earned numerous accolades over the years, and much of their success can be attributed to their location within the VQA Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in Niagara.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was organically certified and estate grown at their Rosomel Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. The Rosomel Vineyard is set on a broad terrace where the escarpment forms a double bench. The vineyard gently slopes northward towards the lake, with the edge of the vineyard bordered by wooded thickets on three sides, while the Bruce Trail runs along the upper bench, directly behind the vineyard. Because the vineyard is positioned between two benches, it is protected from harsher winds, while the gentle slopes and its proximity to the lake ensures that air circulates throughout the vineyard, and helps prevent frost or Botrytis.

In 2021, because of the wet growing season, they exposed the bunches at fruit-set to sunlight by removing leaves on the east side of the canopy, which also opened up air flow from the west side. A green harvest was done at the start of véraison, and they left only the healthiest bunches on the vine in order to promote ripeness, concentration of flavours, and the expression of terroir. The grapes were harvested and sorted by hand, then gently whole bunch pressed. The wine is named "Béton", which translates to "Concrete", because it was naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks and remained in concrete for 7 months to age on its lees, until bottling.

The growing season in 2021 started with a mild and relatively dry winter which protected the buds. Spring was warm, leading to an earlier than average budbreak and was coupled with an excellent vegetative growth phase through May and June which resulted in early and complete flowering towards the Summer Solstice. The fruit set was excellent, while the crop size was larger than average and was supported by ample moisture and heat during July and August. Anticipating an excellent (and large) vintage, leaf removal to open the canopy, as well as fruit thinning and balancing throughout the summer to the end of August kept the winegrowing team busy. Rainfall during harvest presented challenges, but overall they were pleased with the quality of the fruit. The 2021 growing season will be remembered as a winegrower's vintage, where a nimble approach and attention to detail from vineyard to bottle helped produce very good, early varietal wines. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH BÉTON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Rosomel Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#33552) (XD) - $27.95
Fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Enclosed by screw cap. This lovely, organic Sauvignon Blanc has a fragrant nose that leads with intriguing flinty minerality aromas, followed by ripe lemon citrus and pear, plus some ripe tropical fruit, thyme, herbs, and grass notes that add complexity. It is impressively weighted on the medium-full bodied, nicely textured palate with lovely, dry flavours of ripe lemon citrus, pear, grapefruit, and flinty mineral, with touches of white peach and cucumber. Fresh acidity is juicy and succulent. It's somewhat spicy on the mid-palate, while citrus and mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Different, intriguing, and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fantastic wines from Hidden Bench are available through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.