Thalia Wines (Greece) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a trio of wines from Greece that I've had in my possession for nearly a couple of years now. While these particular vintages are long sold out, the latest vintage of each wine is widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario at a about $1+ more than the price noted below.

All three wines are produced by Thalia Wines, a wine brand from Greece that was established by Steve Kriaris of Kolonaki Group of Companies. In addition to importing many boutique Greek wines into Canada, he also began producing and importing Thalia Wines - a range of three, diverse wines that are rooted in the rich tradition and craftsmanship of Greek winemaking.

The brand is inspired by Thalia, the eighth of nine Greek muses which inspired artists to create. She was born to Zeus, king of the gods, and Mnemosyne, the personification of thought, intellect, and memory, and the Mother of the arts. Thalia is the goddess of comedy, poetry, and festivity, and the one who inspired laughter to emanate from Greek theatres. To the ancient Greek philosophers, Thalia was the inspiration for their symposiums where they drank wine, listened and danced to music, debated, recited poetry, and revelled the night away.

Thalia is this wine brand's muse as she embodies their wines borne of ancient Greek lands and carries the fermentations of inspired generations in its genes. Thalia wines are best enjoyed amongst friends and loved ones, where we subconsciously desire to recreate the ancient Greek gatherings and enjoy each other's company, thoughts, and laughter.

The entire range of Thalia wines consists of 3 wines - a red, white, and rosé. All three wines are two-varietal blends that combine a native variety with an international variety. The 2021 vintage wines reviewed below are all from a good vintage, so let's see how these Greek wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

THALIA ROSÉ (2021) - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#27148) (XD) - $10.95
A blend of 80% Agiorgitiko, Greece's noblest red grape variety, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. After hand-harvesting the grapes, each variety spent 2 to 3 hours on its skins. The free-run wine must was then blended and fermented together at low temperatures using selected yeast. Enclosed by screw cap and pours a medium orange-pink salmon hue. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose delivers dried herb, white pepper spice, grapefruit, citrus, and blood orange aromas with hints of stony minerality. It's nicely textured on the medium+ to medium-full bodied and dry palate with delicious dried herb, peppery spice, grapefruit, citrus, and red apple flavours supported by very good, crisp acidity. It has a nicely textured mouthfeel, while red currant and berry notes join the herbal and grapefruit characters on the juicy, dry finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 88+ pts

THALIA WHITE (2021) - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#273490) (XD) - $11.50
This blend of 70% Assyrtiko, one of Greece's highest quality grapes and comes from the high altitudes of the Achaia region, and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, each variety was hand-harvested and fermented separately at low temperatures using selected yeast, followed by ageing on its fine lees for 2 months. Fresh and fragrant with ripe aromas of lemon citrus, hay, orange, and grapefruit, plus some intriguing yeasty, doughy, autolytic characters adding complexity. The medium+ bodied palate is dry and ripe with slightly honeyed notes of lemon citrus, grapefruit, apple, and wild herbs, with touches of leesy minerality. Acids are juicy and well-balanced. Subtle spice on the mid-palate, while citrus and leesy mineral notes linger on the lengthy, crisp finish. Well-made and a highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

THALIA RED (2021) - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#15285) (XD) - $11.60
This blend of 80% Agiorgitiko and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon was hand-harvested and had gentle skin contact for one week. After undergoing alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the two varieties were blended and aged. It has a fragrant, medium+ intensity nose of ripe black cherry, red plum, vanilla oak spice, and sweet cinnamon aromas with savoury earth accents. On the medium+ bodied palate it is dry with good structure that supports the black cherry, currant, plum, cassis, savoury earth, coffee, and gently oak spice flavours. It has very good, juicy acidity and smooth, supple tannins with a lightly grippy texture. There's some pleasant bitterness on the mid-palate, while earthy, dark cherry, coffee, and spice notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Should continue to age gracefully over the next 2-3 years. Score: 88+ pts

The latest edition of all three wines are widely available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Squealing Pig Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, the newest addition to the General List family at the LCBO, arriving last month and widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

It is produced by Squealing Pig, a winery whose tale is about a big who wants more from life than just his pig pen. The founders of Squealing Pig were keen on wine, but not a fan of the bore that you get with it, and set out on an adventure in 2010 to the Squealing Pig Vineyard in Marlborough, New Zealand. They wanted to make a Sauvignon Blanc with personality, while also being eager to experiment with fresh varieties and styles. While originating in Marlborough, the little squealing pig also trotted around the globe to make cracking wines that are approachable, flavour-packed, and pair brilliantly with no-fuss foods, while having more fun than anyone else!

The Squealing Pig brand was named after the pigs occupying the grounds of the historic homestead, which overlooked the original Squealing Pig vineyard on the South Island of New Zealand, in Marlborough. At each mealtime, the pigs would squeal with delight, producing a noise that travelled down to the vineyard and beyond.

Today, Squealing Pig is known for its playful name and distinctive labelling, while also producing wines that are characterized by their vibrant, fruit-forward flavours. Squealing Pig has gained a reputation for producing quality wines at affordable prices, and is a popular choice for those looking for value without compromising on taste.

From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2023 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SQUEALING PIG SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Marlborough, New Zealand (#35623) (XD) - $18.95
Grown in the Awatere Valley, this white wine was cool-fermented and vinified with minimal handling. Enclosed by screw cap, this is fragrant, highly aromatic, and ripe with classic aromas of passion fruit, guava, and kiwi layered over lemon/lime citrus, leesy minerality, and grassy herbal notes. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with lightly honeyed and floral flavours of lemon/lime citrus, passion fruit, and guava. It is finely textured with fresh acidity, while lime citrus with touches of leesy minerals linger on the juicy finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines by Squealing Pig can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Fortes Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa. It is a brand-new wine that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 16th.

It is produced by Fortes Family Wines, a boutique winery that was established and is led by Neil Fortes. Having known Neil for many years, he is also the owner of Wine Guru Selections Inc., a wine agency and distributor based in Ontario who specializes in representing and merchandising wines in Canada and has over 40 years of experience in the wine trade. The Fortes family originated in Spain and can be traced back to the time of Queen Isabella in the 15th century. During their history, they migrated to Russia, where they were grain merchants in Melitopol, in southeastern Ukraine. At the beginning of the 19th century, the family migrated to the U.S., followed by a migration to South Africa during the last century.

Today, Neil Fortes spends his time between Canada and South Africa. Fortes Family Wines is situated in the pristine Napier valley, close to Cape Agulhas, at the southernmost tip of the African continent. The name "fortes" means "strong" in Spanish, which also describes the strength and intensity of the wines they are crafting. Located in this region, the temperate climate allows Fortes to produce groundbreaking, cool-climate wines of enormous extract and quality. Furthermore, the soils are of great complexity and structure. Fortes Family wines is also a proud member of the Agulhas Wine Triangle, a non-profit company that was established in 2019 to showcase the wines, tourism, and natural beauty of the Agulhas area.

In general, the 2022 growing season in South Africa was cooler and produced a slightly smaller harvest, with promising wine quality. Let's see how this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FORTES SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - WO Napier, South Africa (#33297) (XD) - $23.95
Lightly matured in small oak casks, this Sauvignon Blanc is fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic with pretty aromas of passion fruit, kiwi, and guava layered over citrus, flowers, and touches of mineral. It's medium+ bodied and gently spicy on the palate with delicious passion fruit, kiwi, guava, and lemon citrus replays on the flavour profile. It's supported by fresh, bracing acidity and a gently chalky textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Succulent and juicy with passion fruit, citrus, and guava notes tapering to a long, leesy mineral finish. Enjoy this fantastic, highly recommended buy over the next 3-4 years. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Fortes Family Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Wine Guru Selections Inc.

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Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc 2022 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, organic and vegan white wine blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon from Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 2nd.

It is produced by Maison Raymond, a vigneron and negociant that is located in the southeastern end of Bordeaux's largest appellation, the Entre-Deux-Mers region, southeast of the city of Bordeaux. It was founded by the Raymond family in 1850 and, as such, they have a long history of winegrowing since the medieval times in the villages of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Martial, and Saint-Felix de Conclude.

Today, Maison Raymond is led by the 8th generation of the family. They reside on the family property of Domaine du Château de Lagarde, which had been built over the years by successive generations. The winery honours its heritage by using a special combination of ancestral tradition and the most efficient modern technologies to craft its wines. Organic farming at Maison Raymond was introduced after Lionel Raymond acquired an organic vineyard in 2000 and, because he had a strong respect for the environment and terroir, he was convinced that organic was the way to move forward and proceeded to convert all 130 hectares of vines at Maison Raymond to organic viticulture. Most winemakers in the area thought he was crazy as it was twice the work of a conventional vineyard. Today, Maison Raymond is one of Bordeaux's largest organic wineries and one of the few in the region that has made a commitment to organic viticulture. Maison Raymond is passionately relentless in its commitment to crating wines using natural, chemical-free methods, and without compromising on quality.

Like the 2019 Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc that I enjoyed a few years ago, this vintage is also a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Sémillon. The grapes were sourced from hillside sites in Saint Laurent du Bois. The climate at these sites is mild, with cooling breezes off the Atlantic Ocean, with lots of sunshine and regular rain. The vineyards are planted in soil composed of clay and limestone. The grapes were vinified completely in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, without the use of any oak.

The 2022 growing season was surprisingly good, despite the perilous conditions. Winter started cool and dry, with dry conditions remaining in place even as temperatures started to rise in spring, and allowed for both an early and successful budburst and flowering. The aforementioned perilous conditions arrived with frosts in April and significant hailstorms in June. Yields were cut, but temperatures continued to rise, leading to drought conditions. July was the driest in decades, and from that month onward there was virtually no rain, and it featured prominent heatwaves. Serious wildfires sparked concerns of smoke taint, but most of the vineyards managed to escape unscathed. Cool nights helped bring some relief, which in turn helped preserve aromatic freshness and acidity in the fruit. Harvest was a little early, with much of the resulting fruit exceptionally fine. Let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES HAUTS DE LAGARDE BLANC 2022 - Vegan, AC Bordeaux, France (#387787) (XD) - $19.95
This organic white wine is a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Sémillon. The medium to medium-high intensity nose offers an attractive bouquet of citrus, apple, grapefruit, orange, and honeysuckle aromas layered over guava, passion fruit, and tropical fruit notes. It has good concentration on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied with lovely citrus, grapefruit, white floral, herbal, and spice flavours. It's supported by fresh, lemony acidity, while citrusy, spice, and mineral notes linger on the juicy finish, with very good length. Enjoyable now, but will be even better with a further 6-12 months in the cellar. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other fine wines by Maison Raymond can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Hatzimichalis Alfega White 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Smart Buy from Greece that was a new arrival at the LCBO in the January 6, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with quite a few bottles still available across Ontario.

It is produced by Domaine Hatzimichalis, a winery that was founded by Dimitris Hatzimichalis, who made his first wine in the backyard of his home at the young age of 19 years old. With a quickly evolving passion for wine, Dimitris was inspired to put a small wine press in the back of his family's office, while also studying the history of wine. In 1973, Dimitris purchased his first 9 hectares of land, which was situated in Atalanti Valley.

Dimitris selected the Atalanti Valley because he noticed the unique microclimate that existed in the area. The Atalanti Valley is situated in Central Greece, between the cool breezes of Mount Parnassus and the Euboean gulf of the Aegean Sea. Smaller-scale viticulture had already found a home in Atalanti prior to the arrival of Domaine Hatzimichalis, which was an important factor in Dimitris' decision to invest in the area. The terroir at Domaine Hatzimichalis is surrounded by the ideal ecosystem for winegrowing.

During the early years of Domaine Hatzimichalis, Dimitris laid the foundation for a well-structured business. Moreover, at that time, Greek winemaking was not as evolved as it is now. Today, many people credit Dimitris Hatzimichalis for being one of the leaders of the Greek Wine Revolution. Dimitris' intensive studies in all areas of winemaking, along with its history, led him to decide on the most ideal varieties to cultivate in his vineyards. He also made additional investments in infrastructure, including top-tier equipment, and developed partnerships with those that had experience and passion to further the development of Greek wine.

The label of Domaine Hatzimichalis has a connection to Canada. Dimitris had a long-standing passion for breeding birds and developed a farm for breeding turkeys, which helped support some of the vineyard expenses. The Canadian connection is that the turkeys were imported from Canada and bred for the traditional Christmas table in Greece. Dimitris continues to breed turkeys today, and the turkey proudly adorns the labels and corks of each Domaine Hatzimichalis wine.

It is also interesting to know that harvest and pruning activities are performed by a group of skilful and experienced Greek women. The choice was deliberate as, according to Domaine Hatzimichalis, Greek women are known for their caring, patient, and tender character, as well as their overall courage and strength. Inspired and amazed by their care for the vineyards, Dimitris' vision is to create authentic wines that support local culture and values.

Alfega is the name of this white wine, and it comes from the first and last letter of the Greek alphabet, representing their philosophy to make wines from the first stage through to the last. Hatzimichalis cultivates their own grapes, vinifies their own wines, and distributes their own products. This white wine is a blend of two indigenous varieties, Malagousia (40%) and Robola (20%) that combine harmoniously with 40% Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were grown in the PGI Valley of Atalanti, which is situated in the district of Fthiotida, within the region of Central Greece. The grapes were selected from their own sub-mountainous vineyards, with each variety fermented separately in temperature-controlled, stainless steel vats, prior to blending and bottling. Let's see how this 2022 white wine from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HATZIMICHALIS ALFEGA WHITE 2022 - PGI Valley of Atalanti, Greece (#33255) (XD) - $15.95
This blend of 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Malagousia, and 20% Robola has an elegant, medium-high intensity nose that delivers lemon citrus, apple, pear, and floral aromas layered over nuances of leesy mineral, tropical fruit, apricot, and subtle spice. It has good weight, concentration, and structure on the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate that is dry and ripe with lovely lemon citrus, apple, pear, floral flavours, plus touches of spice and leesy mineral adding a savoury component. It has juicy, succulent acidity and a nicely textured mouthfeel, plus some saline characters on the mid-palate. Complex and inviting with citrusy, stone fruit, spice, and leesy mineral notes lingering on the long, satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

One other wine by Domaine Hatzimichalis can be found currently at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Indómita Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Sauvignon Blanc from Chile that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature on wines from Chile in the recent February 3, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Viña Indómita, a prominent Chilean winery that was established in 2001 by the Del Pedregal family in a privileged location between Chile's two most important cities - Santiago and Valparaíso - in the cool-climate of the Casablanca Valley. As a fairly young wine producer, the modern architecture of the winery building has an unrivalled panoramic view of the valley, while nestled within the hill is the barrel room in which the temperature and humidity is naturally regulated.

Indómita's mission is to produce quality wines with a focus on sustainability and fair trade values. From vineyard to bottle, the grapes and the subsequent wine are carefully monitored to obtain the best
expression of the land. The mission is to create an ethical and responsible supply chain that benefits everyone from our winemakers to our end customers, while also promoting fair and transparent business practices that have a positive impact on our communities and the environment.

With several ranges of wines in the Indómita portfolio, this white wine is from their Gran Reserva range and represents the spirit of their vineyards. Indómita's Gran Reserva wines have character, are powerful, and outstanding. The Gran Reserva wines invite you to learn more about wine and its benefits, and is also an invitation to live the Indómita experience and enjoy life.

The Sauvignon Blanc grapes for this wine were grown in Casablanca Valley, a cold-weather valley that experiences the cool and saline winds of the Pacific Ocean, and is an extreme location for winegrowing due to the annual accumulation of heat barely reaching the minimum suggested levels for vineyards. The vines for this Sauvignon Blanc were planted in 2002 and 2006 on hillsides and the valley floor, on soil that ranges between a sandy and deep clay structure, with some gravel. The vineyards are planted in both North-South and West-East orientations, a combination that produces high oenological potential with very disparate profiles, and delivers powerful acidity and briny minerality. The grapes were crushed in a reductive environment, with only the free run juice obtained by gravity used to craft this wine. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks using selected yeasts, with gentle lees treatment. To add complexity, 3% of this wine was barrel-fermented and aged in barrels for 3 months.

The 2022 growing season in Chile's coastal wine regions, such as Casablanca Valley, has delivered a promising vintage with fresh and focused wines from a slightly cooler than average year. Cool-climate varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc particularly excelled. Let's see how this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

INDÓMITA GRAN RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - DO Valle de Casablanca, Chile (#544213) (XD) - $15.95
Elegantly aromatic with a medium-high intensity nose of guava, green herbs, lemon/lime citrus, grassy, melon, and jalapeño aromas with an underlying saline minerality. It has good weight on the medium+ bodied, dry and creamy palate with lovely lemon/lime citrus, green herb, guava, grassy, and melon flavour replays supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. There's a touch of spice, along with some leesy minerality on the mid-palate. It's nicely textured with good structure, while leesy mineral notes linger on the long, succulent finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy with seafood! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Viña Indómita can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Santa Carolina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, certified-sustainable Sauvignon Blanc from Chile. It is a General List products at the LCBO and, while this vintage is likely long gone, the latest vintage is widely available at the LCBO outlets across Ontario.

It is produced by Santa Carolina, an historic Chilean wine brand that was established as Viña Santa Carolina in 1875 by Luis Pereira, who named it after his wife, Carolina Iñiguez. As a renowned producer for over 150 years, Santa Carolina produces a wide range of wines with consistent quality and is noted for being among the first Chilean wineries to receive international recognition.

Viña Santa Carolina was founded in the fertile soils of a young winemaking country located at the end of the world. The underground cellar was built in 1877 and has a history that fills caves and manuscripts found within its walls, along with memories of ancestral trades, dedication, innovation, knowledge, and hard work that forged the essence of one of Chile's oldest wineries.

After nearly a century in the hands of the Pereira family, Santa Carolina was acquired in 1974 by the Larrain family. In 2010, following the devastating earthquake that struck Chile, the winery was reconstructed and restored, and reopened to the public in 2012. Santa Carolina won several prestigious awards over the ensuing years and is considered one of the world's most powerful wine brands. The winemaking philosophy at Santa Carolina is to produce wines of consistent quality, while also having wines with unique and distinctive characteristics.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in both the Leyda Valley and the Maule Valley. The Leyda Valley, whose signature grape is Sauvignon Blanc, is located around the mouth of the Maipo River and has a Mediterranean climate under the strong influence of the Pacific Ocean, which results in winters with moderate rainfall and cool summers. The vineyards in Leyda Valley are planted on gentle hillsides with different exposures to the sun, which results in grapes with different flavour profiles and adds complexity. To craft this wine, the grapes were mostly harvested at night, and after a cold maceration they were processed in a pneumatic press, clarified, and then underwent a temperature-controlled fermentation using selected yeasts. It was then aged on its lees for a month to enhance complexity and persistence, without the use of any oak. From a very good growing season, let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SANTA CAROLINA RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Valle de Leyda / Valle del Maule, Chile (#337535) (XD) - $13.95
Screw cap. Clean, crisp and generous medium+ to medium-high intensity aromas of lime citrus, kiwi, guava, gooseberry, herbs, and green apple, with leesy mineral undertones. On the dry, medium-bodied palate it offers crisp and vibrant acidity that lifts the lime citrus, kiwi, guava, gooseberry, leesy mineral, and herbal flavours. It is nicely balanced throughout, with lime, kiwi, and gooseberry flavours tapering to leesy mineral notes on the finish, with very good length. Great buy! Score: 89 pts

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Piera 1899 Terre Magre (Friuli) Virtual Wine Tasting

In September, I had the pleasure of attending an exclusive virtual wine tasting via Zoom to taste the latest wines from Piera 1899's Terre Magre line of wines - a pure expression of Friuli. Leading the presentation and tasting were Anna Polon, Sales and Marketing Director, and she was joined by Gianpietro Poveglian, Oenologist at Piera 1899.

The wines of Terre Magre are produced by Piera 1899, a winery whose story begins in 1899 on a farm that was situated in the commune of Padua in northern Italy's Veneto wine region, when the first generation of the Martellozzo family entered the world of wine.

Today, the family business is led by Piera, the granddaughter of Giovanni Martellozzo. Grandfather Giovanni took his first steps in the world of wine during an important time in history, as he understood that the rise of new social classes would create demand for a different type of drink - wine. He seized the opportunity to make a wider audience appreciate wines from his territory, as well as those from other regions. Piera's operations stretched from Veneto to Friuli Venezia Giulia in the north, to Southern Italy, passing through Umbria. In the 1960s, Giovanni spent most of his time working on the countryside property located in Lison Pramaggiore, while leaving the main house in Padua to his children. Mario, one of five Martellozzo brothers, would lead the company towards the future by expanding production and taking sales beyond national borders. Mario always had a vision that his daughter, Piera, would be the future leader of the family business, and in 1992 that vision became a reality when he handed the entire company over to her.

With Piera at the helm, she aimed to distinguish the company's activities by working on the quality of the products, re-evaluating native varieties, and creating a very close bond with other territories, particularly in Triveneto. Since the 90s, the greatly overlooked native varieties of Raboso del Piave and Ribolla Gialla have been revived, while in 1998 Piera created their first line of organic wines.

In 2001, Piera 1899 acquired a company in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, a territory that was close to Piera. She decided to make this property her home and move the family business into the heart of Friuli Grave - an area known for the remarkable organoleptic characteristics of its vines which yield fragrant and aromatic wines thanks to strong seasonal and diurnal temperature variations. The ensuing adventure in Friuli began with an extensive analysis of the territory and its extraordinary biodiversity through a more complete mapping of the various winegrowing areas with the help of Gianpietro Poveglian, an Oenologist and Agronomist appointed to select the grapes for Piera's project. Open to innovation while respecting traditions, Piera would set a new course in the family's history, while becoming the face of the brand named after her - Piera 1899.

Today, while Piera 1899 is still family-owned, it is part of Gruppo Martellozzo, a group that also includes the brands Martellozzo and Blu Giovello. Gruppo Martellozzo was one of the first producers in Friuli, and it is currently made up of 26 professionals who work in synergy while forging a strong territorial identity of their wines. Interestingly, the company exports over 50% of their wines abroad, with Canada as the top export country with 45% exported to Canada.

The philosophy at Piera 1899 is based on expertise and quality, with the aim of bringing wines of territorial identity to the world. They invest in not only native varieties, but also international varieties that can aptly express the territory on which they are grown. Endowed with a deep knowledge of the terroir, Piera 1899 also has an eye towards the future. As one of the first wineries to believe in organic farming, Piera 1899 is an advocate for protecting the environment, while also being a pioneer of an approach based on sustainable agriculture.

Piera 1899 is situated within Friuli Grave DOC, a denomination within the wine region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Friuli Grave is located at the foot of the Dolomites, an area sheltered from the cold, northern winds, that also benefits from the mitigating influence of the nearby Adriatic Sea to the south, thereby creating a microclimate that is particularly suitable for vine cultivation. Historically, this area has been cultivated with vines since the Roman Era. An area of about 7,500 hectares, the Grave is characterized by a steppe of alluvial origin called the Magredi - a rocky area that offers a unique landscape thanks to the particular microclimate and porous composition of the soil, where water flows between the stones and resurfaces in springs downstream. The natural landscape is distinguished by a plain and the erosive actions of the Meduna, Cellina, and Tagliamento rivers. The waters dragged huge amounts of limestone-dolomite material that was deposited downstream, along the riverbed. The result is more evident in the northern area known as Magredi, an area where the vine has found its ideal habitat with white pebbles in the vineyards that absorb the sun's heat, protects the plant, and favours a distinct seasonal temperature variation.

The range of Terre Magre wines faithfully express the wine heritage of Friuli Grave and embody Piera's philosophy. The labels of Terre Magre wines represent the territory, with the top edge representing the Dolomites, while just below are vineyards and pebbles which are embossed on to the label, and lastly, the lines represent the Meduna and Cellina rivers. Terre Magre wines are highly recognizable, mono-varietal wines characterized by good structure, drinkability, persistent fruity and mineral notes, distinct flavour, and typical scents of the territory. The grapes of each Terre Magre wine flourish in a naturally enchanting and splendid environment in Magredi.

I tasted 6 of the 11 wines in the Terre Magre line, and my clear favourites were both Pinot Grigio wines, and Friuli's rising star - Ribolla Gialla. All the wines in the Terre Magre line are vegan-friendly and vinified and aged in stainless steel.

Thank you to Piera 1899 and Wellcom Marketing for arranging the opportunity to taste these lovely wines. While these wines aren't currently available at the LCBO, in Ontario, they can be ordered through their Agent - Andrew Peller Import Agency.

Tasting Notes:

TERRE MAGRE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2022 - DOC Friuli Colli Orientali, Italy (XD)
Elegant and fresh, the medium+ intensity nose offers attractive aromas of white floral, melon, mandarin orange, honeysuckle, and white peach with some leesy mineral notes adding a savoury component to the bouquet. It has very good weight on the dry, medium-full bodied and textured palate with lovely, floral and citrusy aroma replays plus ripe apple and pear notes, supported by fresh, succulent acidity. It has a very pleasant, fine leesy texture on the mid-palate. The melon, honeysuckle, peach, orange citrus, and leesy mineral notes all appear right through to the long, balanced, and very satisfying finish. Score: 90+ pts

TERRE MAGRE SAUVIGNON 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the nose with ripe lemon/lime citrus, sage, tropical fruits such as kiwi, guava, and passion fruit aromas, plus notes of grass and herbs. It has good weight on the medium-full bodied and ripe palate with delicious lemon/lime citrus, sage, grassy, grapefruit, and tropical fruit flavour replays flecked with ripe, honeyed fruit notes. It has a fine, leesy textured mouthfeel that is supported by gentle acidity, while leesy mineral and lime citrus notes linger on the long, flavourful finish. Score: 89 pts

TERRE MAGRE PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
Aged on its lees until spring, this has a medium to medium-high intensity nose that offers attractive aromas of orange blossom, lemon citrus, and floral notes with hints of honey suckle, lemon peel, and herbal tones. It is impressively weighted on the medium+ to medium-full bodied, and nicely textured palate. It’s dry and ripe with lightly honeyed flavours layered over citrus, orange blossom, and floral notes, plus touches of sweet herbs and leesy minerals adding complexity. Crisp acidity is fresh and juicy, while leesy mineral and lemon peel notes linger on the long, textured finish. Score: 90+ pts

TERRE MAGRE L'ALTRO PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
A limited edition bottling of approx. 6,000 bottles, this was partially fermented with skins for 10-15 days and aged on its lees for 6-7 months. Pretty, pink salmon colour. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is elegant and quite complex with pink grapefruit, leesy mineral, citrus, and floral aromas joined by hints of melon, honeysuckle, and creamed corn. On the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is impressively weighted, concentrated, and dry with spiced flavours of pink grapefruit, citrus, melon, and floral characters. It has a very nice, chalky textured mineral mouthfeel on the mid-palate, plus fresh and vibrant acidity. Lovely leesy mineral notes linger on the long, juicy, and balanced finish, with excellent length. Score: 91+ pts

TERRE MAGRE PINOT NERO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
Fresh and fruity nose delivers aromas of ripe red cherry, strawberry, and cranberry nuanced with earthy beetroot, spice, and a touch of tea leaf. The fruity notes continue on the light-to-mid-weighted palate with red fruited cran-cherry, strawberry, spice, earth flavours with herbal, mineral, and saline touches on the mid-palate. It’s supported by fresh acidity and elegant, light, fine, and dusty textured tannins. Savoury with mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Score: 89 pts

TERRE MAGRE MERLOT 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (#29821) (D) - $22.95
Unoaked, 100% Merlot with 8% appassimento style. The medium-high intensity aromatics are fragrant, open, and complex with fruit forward dark and red berries, cherry, black cherry, and currant aromas, plus some spices and dried herbs. It’s medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry palate with delicious currant, black cherry, dark berry, and cocoa flavours with hints of dark plum and savoury, earthy undertones. It has a supple mouthfeel with well-structured tannins, while the fresh acidity hides the kiss of sweetness. Cocoa and savoury earth notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 89 pts

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Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. A perennial winner and a personal favourite of mine, this white wine arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining theme in the December 2 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This white wine is produced by Greywacke, a renowned winery that was established in 2009 by legendary winemaker Kevin Judd. The name "Greywacke" refers to the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones found in the vineyard soils in Rapaura, within the Marlborough wine region. Kevin registered the name many years ago while successfully working for a notable New Zealand winery and sought one day to fulfill a dream of having his own wines - a dream that became a reality. Together with his wife, Kimberley, Greywacke remains a family affair that is now located in the Omaka Valley, one of Marlborough's Southern Valleys.

As a pioneer in Marlborough winemaking, Kevin's philosophy is to "keep it simple" while using a hands-on approach with minimal interventionist winemaking techniques. The fruit for all Greywacke wines is sourced from mature vineyards in prime viticultural sites that are sustainably managed, with an ever-increasing portion coming from organically farmed sites.

Each variety is grown and vinified using specific techniques aimed at achieving very specific wine styles, with a common objective of delivering concentration of flavour and a harmonious balance of texture and acidity. For example, to enhance flavour concentration in the grapes, crop levels are restricted, while meticulous canopy management allows for sufficient sun exposure which delivers ripeness of flavour, textural richness, and optimum acid balance. Wild yeast fermentations are used extensively in order to add a savoury character to the flavour profile, while also building structure and a textured mouthfeel. The range of Greywacke wines is primarily focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, plus a number of limited production wines using other varieties. Greywacke is accredited with Appellation Marlborough Wine to ensure provenance, authenticity, and integrity. Kevin is also a renowned photographer with a couple of published photography books, while the label of each Greywacke wine is adorned with his photo.

These days, the Judd family is joined by Richelle Tyney, who joined the team in 2021 and manages the winemaking programme, while also travelling abroad to spread the word about Greywacke wines. In 2019, one of the Judd family's two sons, Alex, plunged himself into the production side of the winemaking team at Greywacke. And in news that is just a couple of weeks old, Greywacke announced that Ben Leonard joined the team to manage the sales and commercial side of their global distribution network.

Like the 2021 Greywacke Savuginon Blanc that I enjoyed last year, this fruit for this vintage was sourced from prime vineyard sites in Marlborough's Southern Valleys and the central Wairau Plains - specifically in Woodbourne, Renwick, and Rapaura. The vines were planted on various soil types, varying from young alluvial soils in Rapaura and Renwick, which contain high proportions of New Zealand's ubiquitous greywacke river stones, to older and denser clay-loams of the Southern Valleys. The majority of the vineyards were trained using the divided Scott Henry canopy management system, with the balance on a two- or three-cane Vertical Shoot Positioning trellis. The grapes were largely machine-harvested during the cool (and often cold) nighttime conditions. Upon arrival at the winery in the Omaka Valley, the grapes were lightly pressed to yield a modest volume of high-quality juice. The juice was then cold-settled and racked prior to fermentation. It was fermented primarily in stainless steel tanks with cultured yeast, while a portion of the juice was allowed to undergo spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation in old oak barrels. All individual vineyard batches were left on lees and kept separate until late June, when the blend of Sauvignon Blanc was assembled, and then bottled in mid-August.

The 2022 winegrowing season in Marlborough was marked by a cold and wet February, which resulted in big bunches and berries, and an ensuing large harvest which meant that crop-thinning was especially important. However, finer weather during the autumn months delivered optimal fruit ripeness levels While there were challenges during the growing season, many producers successfully managed the vintage to produce some beautifully elegant wines. Let's see how this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#164228) (XD) - $26.95
Screw cap. Elegantly ripe with a medium-high intensity nose offers lovely and complex aromas of passion fruit, lime-lemon citrus, and leesy minerals with touches of grapefruit, guava, spice, kiwi, and melon adding nuance. It has a lovely, structured and textured mouthfeel, with equally impressive weight on the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate. It's dry with lovely ripe lime-lemon citrus, passion fruit, guava, and leesy mineral flavours. It's juicy and succulent with fresh, balanced, and saliva-inducing acidity. A touch spicy, plus intriguing notes of mango and melon add further complexity on the mid-palate, while leesy mineral notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy the next 4-5 years. Score: 92 pts

Other fine wines from the Greywacke portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Hãhã Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, sustainably-crafted Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand that landed at the LCBO last month as part of the September 9 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Hãhã Wine, a winery based in the Hawke's Bay wine region, on the North Island of New Zealand. It was founded by three families who came together to share their passion for wine. This partnership is at the foundation of a sharing and caring culture that is carried out in all aspects of the winemaking process, from vineyard to bottle. With a background in farming and fishing export, the company has a deep respect for the land. To go along with a strong commitment to an environmentally responsible approach, all of Hãhã Wine vineyards, wineries, and bottling facilities are certified 100% sustainable by Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand.

The name of this wine producer comes from the Māori language of Te Reo, where Hãhã means to catch your breath. The breath of conversation which brings us together also leads to discussions and reflections, and the memories and stories binding the past to the present and the present to future ventures. The breath weaves worlds together and is the inspiration behind the Hãhã logo.

As a family-owned winery, they are focused and quality-driven, while also built on a generosity of spirit towards each other and the land. Internationally acclaimed, Hãhã's range of premium quality wines are a true expression of both the long, warm summers of Marlborough and the temperate climate of Hawke’s Bay, while also sharing a place, a time, and a belonging. With an uncompromising commitment to quality, Hãhã wines are now one of New Zealand's fastest growing wine brands and are available across the world.

Crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc, the grapes for this white wine were harvested early in the morning from vineyards situated in the Wairau and Awatere Valleys. The grapes were lightly pressed, while the juice was cool-fermented with selected yeasts to preserve the aromatic characters of the fruit.

The 2022 growing season in New Zealand was the warmest ever recorded. Along with favourable rain post-flowering, the warm temperatures helped deliver a fantastic fruit crop. Harvest was early and compact, which allowed the talented winemaker at Hãhã to produce fabulous, well-balanced, and flavourful wines that rival the last two vintages. Let's see how this 2022 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HÃHÃ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#388363) (XD) - $18.95
Sustainably crafted and enclosed by screw cap, this has a clean, fragrant, fresh, and well-balanced nose of ripe tropical fruit, guava, passion fruit, kiwi, lime citrus, grassy, and herbal aromas. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it offers deliciously ripe lime citrus, passion fruit, guava, grassy, and herbal flavour replays joined by some mineral notes. It's all supported by fresh and lively acidity. It is composed, elegant, and nicely balanced throughout with lime citrus, guava, and mineral notes lingering on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other delicious wines by Hãhã Wine can be purchased at the LCBO, or through their Agent - Perigon Beverage Group.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre in April, tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a perennially excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend, as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

This white wine is crafted by one of my favourite producers, Jean-Max Roger, a renowned wine producer based in the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, within the Loire Valley wine region in France. The Roger family comes from a long line of winegrowers, with the first mention of the family name dating back to the 17th century. Up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. When Jean-Max Roger and his wife, Nicole, took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents in the 1970s, they focused their attention on developing the vineyards and estate.

Under the guidance of Jean-Max, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines within the Sancerre appellation, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles which are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes, Kimmeridgian Marl, and Flint. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

Jean-Max Roger's passion for wine was naturally passed on to his sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004, the brothers joined their father at the family estate. While complementing each other, the brothers perpetuate the family's know-how, vineyard and winemaking techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The Roger family is dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines with finesse, purity, and typicity, which has helped solidify Jean-Max Roger's reputation as one of Sancerre's top wine producers.

Like previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc was grown in the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre, on limestone soils called "caillottes", with vineyard exposure to the south and southwest. The vines are roughly between 6 to 40 years of age and tended to produce grapes that reveal their terroir. Yields are controlled, while organic amendments and deep soil working revitalize soil life. At the winery, the wines are vinified to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. After harvest, the grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours to protect the aromas. Temperature-controlled, long fermentation was carried out using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on its heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration to stabilize the wine, it was bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2021 growing season in Sancerre was a complicated one with frost, mildew, and storms, with great variability on a daily basis. Yields were down with fewer clusters, but the fruit that was harvested is of high quality, resulting in wines that were surprisingly good. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $36.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Elegant and beautifully intense, the aromatic nose offers lemon/lime citrus, stony minerality, grassy herbs, guava, tropical fruit, and grapefruit aromas with hints of melon. It's medium-full bodied, impressively concentrated, and well-structured on the crunchy palate. Dry and complex with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon/lime, citrus, white floral, ripe apple, and pear, with touches of guava, tapering to stony mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It has nicely textured mouthfeel that is supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Stony, leesy mineral notes linger on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Hidden Bench Béton Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2022 Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé last month, tonight's white wine review is another lovely organic wine from the same producer. In fact, this is the first vintage for this wine and also brand new to the LCBO, arriving in-stores and online as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 5.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery is one of Niagara's leading boutique wineries. It was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family in Beamsville Bench when they acquired the Locust Lane vineyard. A year later, Hidden Bench purchased the Rosomel Vineyard, where this white wine was grown. Today, the focus at Hidden Bench is on artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards. Their philosophy is based on a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach. Hidden Bench has a long, well-established reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally, and their wines have earned numerous accolades over the years, and much of their success can be attributed to their location within the VQA Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in Niagara.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was organically certified and estate grown at their Rosomel Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. The Rosomel Vineyard is set on a broad terrace where the escarpment forms a double bench. The vineyard gently slopes northward towards the lake, with the edge of the vineyard bordered by wooded thickets on three sides, while the Bruce Trail runs along the upper bench, directly behind the vineyard. Because the vineyard is positioned between two benches, it is protected from harsher winds, while the gentle slopes and its proximity to the lake ensures that air circulates throughout the vineyard, and helps prevent frost or Botrytis.

In 2021, because of the wet growing season, they exposed the bunches at fruit-set to sunlight by removing leaves on the east side of the canopy, which also opened up air flow from the west side. A green harvest was done at the start of véraison, and they left only the healthiest bunches on the vine in order to promote ripeness, concentration of flavours, and the expression of terroir. The grapes were harvested and sorted by hand, then gently whole bunch pressed. The wine is named "Béton", which translates to "Concrete", because it was naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks and remained in concrete for 7 months to age on its lees, until bottling.

The growing season in 2021 started with a mild and relatively dry winter which protected the buds. Spring was warm, leading to an earlier than average budbreak and was coupled with an excellent vegetative growth phase through May and June which resulted in early and complete flowering towards the Summer Solstice. The fruit set was excellent, while the crop size was larger than average and was supported by ample moisture and heat during July and August. Anticipating an excellent (and large) vintage, leaf removal to open the canopy, as well as fruit thinning and balancing throughout the summer to the end of August kept the winegrowing team busy. Rainfall during harvest presented challenges, but overall they were pleased with the quality of the fruit. The 2021 growing season will be remembered as a winegrower's vintage, where a nimble approach and attention to detail from vineyard to bottle helped produce very good, early varietal wines. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH BÉTON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Rosomel Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#33552) (XD) - $27.95
Fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Enclosed by screw cap. This lovely, organic Sauvignon Blanc has a fragrant nose that leads with intriguing flinty minerality aromas, followed by ripe lemon citrus and pear, plus some ripe tropical fruit, thyme, herbs, and grass notes that add complexity. It is impressively weighted on the medium-full bodied, nicely textured palate with lovely, dry flavours of ripe lemon citrus, pear, grapefruit, and flinty mineral, with touches of white peach and cucumber. Fresh acidity is juicy and succulent. It's somewhat spicy on the mid-palate, while citrus and mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Different, intriguing, and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fantastic wines from Hidden Bench are available through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 and La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from Sancerre in the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, a renowned producer from Sancerre in the Loire Valley, and is easily my favourite producer from the region. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, a commune within the Sancerre appellation and located to the west and a little to the south of the town of Sancerre. The Roger family name was first mentioned in the 17th century and up until the 1960s practiced mixed farming, which included animal rearing.

Jean-Max took over the family estate of 4 hectares of vines in the 1970s and, together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and estate. Under his guidance, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Jean-Max Roger is focused on crafting high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of Sancerre, which is renowned for its chalky limestone soils and cool climate.

Today, the estate is still operated by Jean-Max Roger and his wife. However, their passion and love for wine was transferred to both of their sons, and in 2004 both Thibault and Etienne joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating the family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. With a family estate that has grown to 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, and with more than 40 plots that offer an exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles, this allows the Roger family to use their winemaking expertise to allow each wine to express all of the uniqueness of the terroirs through the wines structure, elegance, and finesse. Jean-Max Roger also maintains a sustainable approach to viticulture which helps preserve the vines and terroir, while not compromising on the production of top-quality grapes. The winery has also expanded over the years to include modern equipment, and combined with new techniques while respecting traditions, Jean-Max Roger is able to craft their wines under optimal conditions.

With vineyard management, Jean-Max Roger produces grapes to reveal its terroir. The vines are tended to using organic principles and working the deep soil to revitalize soil life. By using the Guyot Poussard pruning method, the result is better balance of the stock. They also perform spring disbudding to control yields, while using mechanical weed control which respects soil life. At the winery, Jean-Max Roger aims to produce wines reflecting the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are pneumatically pressed upon arriving at the winery, and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours which helps protect deterioration of aromas, while also eliminating vegetal fragments and dust. The wines undergo a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, which helps develop aromatic complexity, and follows with ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration, which helps stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

While the 2021 vintage was a good, but tricky vintage, the 2022 vintage was very good and referred to as possibly the best in the last 30 years. Having enjoyed previous editions of these wines such as the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre and the 2020 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé, I would expect similar, if not better quality levels this time around. Let's see how this Sancerre Rosé and Sancerre Blanc wines from Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $38.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from 5 to 40 year-old vines grown in the villages of Bué & Amigny on Kimmeridgian Marls (Marnes) and Limestone (Caillottes) soils. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the perfumed nose with spring flowers, lemon/lime citrus, herbs, and freshly cut grass aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It's nicely textured on the medium+ bodied palate with fresh, lively acidity lifting the clean and ripe lemon/lime citrus, spring flower, herbs, and stony mineral flavours, plus some spicy notes on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced throughout with a pleasantly chalky textured mouthfeel on the back palate. Lovely lemon/lime citrus and dried herbal notes taper to an exceptionally long, leesy mineral finish. My favourite in the portfolio and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $31.95
100% Pinot Noir grown on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone, Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes' soils from vines between 25 to 45 years old. The medium+ intensity nose is clean and fresh and red berry, strawberry, cherry, grapefruit, and citrus, and blood orange aromas underpinned by fine mineral notes. On the medium+ bodied palate it is dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed with lovely mineral, grapefruit, blood orange, red berry, strawberry, and cherry flavour replays. It has clean, succulent, and well-balanced acidity, along with a pleasant, chalky textured mouthfeel. Lightly spicy on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

While a couple of other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be found at the LCBO, the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After the enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre over the weekend, tonight's white wine review is its excellent companion that also arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 15th.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. The Roger family comes from long-line of of winegrowers in the village of Bué, with the family name first mentioned in the 17th century. Until the 1960s, the family practiced mixed farming which included animal rearing.

In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've enjoyed this Sancerre Blanc many times over the years, including most recently the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre back in September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in ancestral plots in the village of Bué, in Grand Chemarin and neighbouring vineyards with identical agronomic characteristics. It gets its name "Cuvée Genèse" because this is the wine that has shaped the tastes of several generations of the Roger family and it is the genesis of the estate.

The Sauvignon Blanc vines are between 10-40 years old and planted on stony, limestone, and calcareous soils called "caillottes" with south-eastern exposure to the sun. Like other wines in the portfolio, the vineyards are managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. At the winery, the wines are produced to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed upon arrival at the winery, then cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtration, the wine is bottled at the estate. From a challenging 2021 growing season, let's see how this Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#189126) (XD) - $37.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, and intensely aromatic with impressive depth, it has lovely aromas of lemon citrus, white floral, flinty-earthy minerality, pear, quince, and melon. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has very good concentration with ripe, lightly honeyed flavours of citrus, pear, quince, and flinty-earthy-leesy minerality. It's supported by fresh, crisp, and lively acidity, and a pleasing textural mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Leesy minerality with citrus, quince, and pear notes linger on the very long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the April 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire Valley wine producers. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers in the village of Bué, which is located just west and a little south of the town of Sancerre. The first mention of the Roger family name dates back to the 17th century and up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate.

Today, Jean-Max Roger is one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this lovely white wine from Sancerre, including most recently the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre last September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in the famous vineyards of Saint Martin, L'Epée, and others, within the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre. Most importantly, this is a terroir-focused wine where all of the grapes were grown on limestone soils called "caillottes", and hence, where the wine gets its name from. The grapes have southern and south-western exposure to the sun. The vines are between 6-40 years of age and were managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. After harvesting, the grapes are brought to the winery and immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtering, the wine is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded in the Loire Valley. However, periods of intense rain helped fully replenish the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late April and May were warm; July began cool, but turned very warm, while August was hot. There were some welcomed rains at the end of August, leading to fine September weather. Overall, 2020 is an excellent vintage with wines having concentration, freshness, and poise. Let's see how this 2020 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $35.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, open, and highly aromatic on the nose with lovely lemon citrus, quince, pear, and spring flower aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It is medium to medium-full bodied on the well-structured, dry, and ripe palate with deliciously elegant lemon citrus, stone fruit, apple, quince, and pear replays, plus spicy notes, herbs, and flinty mineral flavours. It is impeccably well-balanced throughout with crisp, juicy acidity, while minerally, herbal, and stone fruit characters linger on the finish, with excellent length. Wow. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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