Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Amarone della Valpolicella that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the January 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cantine Bertani, an Italian winery situated in the heart of Veneto with a long and storied history that began in the mid-19th century. It was established in Valpantena in 1857 by the Bertani brothers - Gaetano and Giovan Battista - after Gaetano returned from Burgundy where he learned from his friend and well-known winemaker Jules Guyot about the most modern techniques in viticulture and winemaking.

In 1860, inspired by the modern French winemaking techniques, Bertani introduced a revolutionary dry style of wine at a time when the sweet Recioto was the everyday wine in Valpolicella, and a decade later Bertani was awarded internationally for its premium quality wines and innovative winemaking techniques. In 1889, the Veronese Academy of Agriculture awarded a gold medal to Bertani for its exceptional wines, while in the same year a Symposium was held by a group of specialists to discuss the Secco-Bertani winemaking process to create dry table wines. The early years of the 20th century had Bertani linked to royalty, while 1958 marked a turning point as Bertani produced their first Amarone della Valpolicella Classico using the natural appassimento method.

The core values at Bertani are based on respect, coherence, and patience. These values are the foundation of their 150-year history - respect for their own territory, stylistic coherence that has never flirted with easy production options, and the patience required to produce an iconic wine like Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. At Bertani, perpetuating a style has never sufficed. As such, they are always using innovation as respect for tradition - meaning that they respect what has been done and, at the same time, re-evaluating it every day in order to assure quality worthy of their potential and reputation. Further developments over the years, including a focus on territory, led to the introduction of single vineyard Amarone della Valpolicella wines.

A territory only has value if one is able to fully express its full potential. The Veronese zone is a varied territory with a long oenological tradition that is known as one of the most prestigious wine regions in Italy. Historically, Bertani has always believed in the individual territories of the Veronese zone, from Valpolicella Classico to Valpantena, from Soave to Lugana, and used an approach that is respectful to both the vineyard and the cellar to develop a style that has been rethought over the years, thus staying up-to-date and modern, without ever compromising.

This Amarone is from Bertani's Territory range of wines. It is crafted with 80% Corvina Veronese and 20% Rondinella, with the fruit grown in the Valpantena territory, which is located in the northeast of Verona. Valpantena is a pre-alpine valley at the heart of the Monti Lessini mountain range and has been known since ancient times for its fertile soil, as well as being rich in iron and calcareous marl. The name Valpantena means "Valley of the Gods", and is derived from the pantheon built at the entrance of the valley. The wine comes from vineyards that feature marl-limestone soil on the eastern slope of the valley and clay-limestone soil on the western slope. The vines average 15 to 20 years old and were trained using the Guyot and Pergola systems. To craft this wine, the grapes were dried in drying rooms at the winery located in Grezzana. It was fermented with a long maceration time on the skins to extract fruit notes, followed by ageing in a combination of 30, 54, and 75 hectolitre barrels for 24 months, and underwent further maturation in bottle for 6 months.

The 2020 growing season was a warm vintage that produced bright fruit and acidity, along with excellent concentration and elegant tannins. Let's see how this 2020 Amarone della Valpolicella is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BERTANI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA VALPANTENA 2020 - DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#568741) (D) - $57.95
Blend of 80% Corvina Veronese and 20% Rondinella. The nose takes some coaxing to reveal itself at this stage with intriguing red & black cherry, blackberry, and spice aromas followed by hints of cocoa, cinnamon, tobacco leaf, and floral. It is medium-full to full-bodied on the dry, rich, and warming palate with lovely and complex black cherry, savoury spice, cinnamon, blackberry, floral, plum, oak spice, tobacco leaf flavours. Acids are crisp, juicy and succulent, while the smooth, refined, and well-structured tannins have a touch of grip. Cherry notes taper to minerals on the long, crisp finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy now or over the next 15+ years. Score: 93 pts

Only small quantities of other fine wines by Bertani are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.