Izadi Reserva 2020 (Rioja) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly Tempranillo from Rioja that arrived at the LCBO a few weeks ago in the May 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by Bodegas Izadi, a relatively new winery that was established in 1987 by Gonzalo Antón and a group of friends and business people from nearby Vitoria. The groundbreaking project was developed deep in the Rioja Alavesa wine region, on the northern bank of the River Ebro, known for its poor soils.

Gonzalo chose the village of Villabuena de Alava, at the western end of Rioja Alavesa, where his family was already growing grapes, as the location of Bodegas Izadi, where the focus would be on making fine wine. Gonzalo's knowledge of hotels and restaurants soon made Izadi one of the most highly-regarded wines in gastronomic circles. Furthermore, Izadi introduced new winemaking techniques and made continuous improvements in quality over time, which helped develop their house style of wines.

In 2000, Lalo Antón, Gonzalo's son, joined the company and quickly helped it expand and grow, while also increasing its exports. Under Lalo's leadership, the Antón family acquired several other notable bodegas across Spain. Today, all four wineries are under the family's umbrella company - Artevino Group.

The family's commitment to quality, bond with gastronomy, and love of the land are the cornerstones of Bodegas Izadi. Their core values are encapsulated in the words: Sensitivity, Hospitality, Respect, and Curiosity. Sensitivity refers to their attention to detail in all areas of the business, from the vineyard to the point where the bottle is opened by the consumer. Hospitality is the starting point and the driving force behind their growth as they are restaurateurs at heart. The name "Izadi" means "Nature" in Basque, and reflects the family's commitment to sustainability and nature. They take care of their natural surroundings and ask their customers to do the same. Izadi practices integrated and sustainable farming, as well as being socially and environmentally responsible. Curiosity drives Izadi to new horizons, encourages them to grow, constantly improve, and do things differently.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Tempranillo that was grown in vineyards spanning 178 hectares, 70 hectares of which it owns, from vines planted before 1970 and averaging 45 years of age. Trained using the Goblet system, these vineyards are located within a triangle formed by three villages - Villabuena, Samaniego, and Abalo. The soil in these sloped vineyards is composed of clay-chalk, with a northeast-to-south aspect, and situated between 450–550 metres above sea level. Situated in northern Spain, the climate is influenced by both the Atlantic Ocean to the north, and the Mediterranean Sea to the east. The vineyards are managed using integrated viticulture practices, while the soil is cultivated using traditional techniques. After manually harvesting the grapes, they were destemmed, gently pressed, and underwent alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine was aged for 16 months in 73% American oak and 27% French oak, with only 20% new oak and the rest no more than 4 years old. It was filtered and clarified prior to bottling.

In 2020, the growing season in Rioja featured rainfall and early budding, which resulted in an early and uneven harvest. Some areas were also severely hit with hail and mildew, which contributed to a drop in yields. It was a mixed bag of a vintage with some producers devastated by losses. However, those that were lucky enough to avoid the inclement weather conditions and harvested after the rain benefited from the subsequent northern winds; these producers were enthusiastic about the results and produced balanced wines with moderate alcohol, good acidity, and deep colour. With strict selections on the sorting table, it is considered a "Very Good" vintage. Let's see how this 2020 Tempranillo from Rioja is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

IZADI RESERVA 2020 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#461269) (XD) - $23.95
100% Tempranillo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose has rich sandalwood, oak spice, nut, and savoury earth aromas surrounding a core of ripe red cherry, florals, currant, and red plum mingling with dried cherry and rose petals. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and spicy with oak spice, sandalwood, nut, red cherry, currant, red plum, and savoury earth flavours, plus touches of rose floral. Hints of orange on the mid-palate adds further complexity and interest. It has fresh acidity, along with somewhat grippy and chalky textured tannins, with good structure. The finish is long, savoury, and earthy. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Izadi's rose is coming to the LCBO this weekend, while the full range of their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Château Tanesse 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Bordeaux red from the Right Bank that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the April 26th LCBO VINTAGES Release Collection.

It is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native land of Algeria in 1962 to start a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, Gironde, in the great wine region of Bordeaux. Paul bought Château de Marsan, which was in ruins at the time, but was surrounded by promising terroirs. He began the adventure with three hectares of grapes, then developed the property's arboricultural activity with the help of the entire family.

Paul's three sons became actively involved in the estate and in local life, with his eldest son, Pierre, becoming mayor of the local municipality, while Philippe became involved in running the property at a very early age, and the youngest son, Eric, carrying out his first vinification in 1985. The Gonfrier family continued to grow the estate with each passing year, with the objective of excellence: ensuring that each variety of grape is carefully selected to best express each plot's special characteristics, while also employing vinification techniques among the vines and in the cellar that seek to allow the terroir to express its finest qualities.

Today, Vignobles Gonfrier is led by brothers Eric and Philippe Gonfrier. Their recognition of exceptional quality wines has allowed them to acquire additional vineyards to further refine their blends. With over 1,000 hectares of vines, state-of-the-art equipment and facilities, the Gonfrier family goes out of its way to craft top-quality wines with sensitivity and respect for the concept of terroir. The third-generation of the family is also now involved in the family business, with Thibault, Philippe’s son, joining the company and expending great effort on taking care of the well-maintained vineyards in an environmentally respectful manner. In 2018, Thibault's sister, Audrey, also joined the company following her successful time spent at a Bordeaux wine merchant. Eric's three children are currently finishing up their studies and are eager to integrate into the family business by implementing new modern skills and knowledge. Their deep-rooted values are: passion for their work, respect for their clients, respect for their commitments, respect for the environment, and defence of their independence and freedom of action.

Château Tanesse is located in the Langoiran district of the AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, a sub-appellation of the within the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Built in the second half of the 18th century by the Tanesse family, the Bordeaux charterhouse is located on a high hillock among Langoiran's sloping vineyards, and overlooks the commune's medieval 13th-century castle and offers a magnificent, panoramic view that stretches from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, while following the meanders of the Garonne River. The property is surrounded by a 30-hectare vineyard that sits atop very old foundations and has exceptional terroir.

This red wine is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil in the vineyard surrounding the Château. The vineyard is managed using sustainable viticulture (certified HVE3), while the Gonfrier family is also committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach certified by Ecovadis. The vines average 25 years old and were trained in the traditional Bordeaux-style, with two canes and a flat arch, along with controlled grassing-down of the vine rows or mechanical working of the soil in order to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. The grapes were manually green harvested, to allow for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while also mechanically harvested. After destemming, crushing, and vatting, the grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks, with a prolonged maceration to extract tannins and showcase the terroir. And finally, the wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

Despite the pandemic, the 2020 growing season produced a legendary vintage. The growing season began with a balmy but frequently wet spring, which ensured both an early and successful budburst and flowering, while also putting the vineyards in good shape for the arrival of a hot and dry summer. Conditions were mostly arid throughout summer, with intermittent thunderstorms providing just enough water relief. The Right Bank had fewer deluges than the Left, but producers still had to be extremely vigilant at managing disease. Harvest took place during the chaos of COVID, but the weather in fall brought warm days and chilly nights, allowing the Bordeaux varieties to reach phenolic ripeness. While yields were slightly smaller than average, the fruit was healthy and of high quality. Let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TANESSE 2020 - Sustainable, AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, France (#666628) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc is richly fragrant and inviting, with a medium-high to highly aromatic nose of lovely ripe dark fruits, black cherry, currant, cassis, and wood spice aromas surrounding a core of savoury earth and accented with graphite, mineral, and whiffs of rose floral. It's medium+ bodied and dry with ripe black cherry, currant, cassis, earthy, and graphite flavours in a well-balanced profile with crisp and juicy acidity. Accessible, medium-level tannins are well-structured and provide a nicely textured mouthfeel. Savoury with earthy and graphite notes linger on the long, gently grippy finish. Should drink nicely into the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Planeta La Segreta Grillo 2023 and Controdanza 2020 (Sicily) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely, sustainably crafted wines from Sicily that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES last month, with the Grillo making its debut in mid-March, while the red wine arrived last weekend. Both are readily available for purchase today!

The lovely wines are produced by Planeta, one of Sicily's most respected and renowned wine producers. The Planeta family have long and deep roots on the volcanic island of Sicily that spans 17 generations and over 500 years. They have been involved in the agricultural evolution of these complex lands with an approach that leans towards openness and innovation.

Planeta's more recent history begins in the early 1900s, when Grandfather Vito transformed the small, family winery in Menfi, in western Sicily, into a large co-operative in a short period of time, paving the way for new solutions and prospects. In the mid-1980s, the family planted their first vines around Ulmo, a 16th-century farmhouse which the family had always owned near the village of Sambuca di Sicilia. They wanted to provide this beautiful place full of memories with a new future and built their first winery at the site in 1995, on the banks of Lake Arancio and its nearby woods. Success at the Ulmo winery led to further expansion on the island, with the idea of producing each wine in its own territory.

Today, Planeta has wine estates across Sicily, in the territories of Vittoria, Noto, Etna, and Capo Milazzo. Planeta is still family-owned and operated, with primarily two generations of the family working on the estate, including brothers and sisters, children, nieces and nephews. Together, they have a vision of unity, love for the land, and a desire to protect it by using sustainable and environmentally-friendly approaches to viticulture and winemaking. As a pioneer in modern Sicilian winemaking, Planeta is focused on crafting high-quality wines using both indigenous and international varieties that reflect the unique terroirs of each territory in Sicily, while embracing innovation and modernity, and respecting tradition. With a passionate focus on the environment, all of Planeta's cultivated areas (vineyards, olive groves, almond orchards, and cereals) are certified organic.

This Grillo is from Planeta's Menfi territory range of wines. Menfi is located on the southern coast of western Sicily. The Menfi area, from the sea to the hills, and up to an altitude of 400 metres, is home to Planeta's largest extension of vineyards. Along with three estates in Menfi - Ulmo, Dispensa, and Monte Cirami - they have 250 hectares of vines where they make precise choices that are specific to both native and international varieties, as well as individual terroirs. The historic Dispensa estate has been in existence since 1755 and is hidden in the heart of the hills among the vineyards. The Dispensa estate is the heart of Planeta's activities, with production, administrative, and logistical headquarters developed around the estate. They also have two wineries on the property, with the small winery holding the family's collection of favourite wines from around the world, as well as certain vintages of Planeta wines. Furthermore, the family's library houses hundreds of Italian and foreign volumes dedicated to the history of vines and wines from the 18th century to the present day.

Bearing the name 'La Segreta', this Grillo is named after the woods that surround their Ulmo vineyards. It is cultivated with passion in accordance with sustainable and organic agricultural criteria. First crafted in the 2016 vintage, the first label was graphically related to a detail of an ancient 18th-century map of the area to underline the family's deep roots and presence on the site since ancient times. Today, the label takes inspiration from nature and depicts Sicilian flora with great precision and poetry.

The Controdanza, which translates to 'country dance', is named after the rural dance where dancers move elegantly in a pattern of opposition and agreement. This is what Planeta thought of when they combined Nero d’Avola with a small amount of Merlot, with this particular vintage composed of 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Merlot that was cultivated in the white lands of Noto, as an unconventional blend based on contrast rather than similarity. Created as the second wine of their top-end Santa Cecilia, the grapes for this wine come from the lowest areas of the valleys where the fruit wins over the typical balsamicity of Nero d’Avola on Noto's lime soils.

With both of these wines coming from excellent vintages, let's see how these two wines from Sicily are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

PLANETA LA SEGRETA GRILLO 2023 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia, Italy (#39442) (XD) - $19.95
100% Grillo organically grown on moderately deep, scarce -to-almost-non-existent structure, moderately limey, and average fertility soil at the Dispensa vineyard in Menfi. Raised entirely in stainless steel and enclosed by Stelvin screw cap. The lovely, medium-high intensity nose has depth with an attractive mix of ripe lemon citrus, flinty mineral, yellow flowers, and herbal aromas surrounding a core of apple and pear notes. On the fleshy, medium-full bodied palate it is dry and spicy with lovely aroma replays of lemon citrus, apple, pear, herbs, and mineral notes on the flavour profile. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with a fine, mineral texture on the mid-palate. Spice and minerals are nuanced with lemon citrus on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on March 15th and is a highly recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

PLANETA CONTRODANZA 2020 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia Noto, Italy (#477190) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 85% Nero d'Avola and 15% Merlot was grown at their Buonivini vineyard in Noto on soils composed of lime marl, with abundant structure of small size, along with a finely textured soil featuring small amounts of light-coloured chalk. Matured for 12 months in fourth- and fifth-use Allier oak barrels. The lifted, medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely, slightly perfumed bouquet of dried roses, floral, fresh & dried cherry, sweet spice, and leather aromas with undertones of savoury earth and minerals. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and chewy with a fairly firm structure and delicious balsamic flavours joining the black cherry, floral, leather, and spices. Some dried berry and floral characters add further interest. Lemony acids are fresh and juicy, while the refined, slightly drying tannins have good grip and structure. Minerally and gently spicy on the long, savoury finish. Arrived in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 29th and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A selection of fine wines by Planeta (some in limited quantities) are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

El Goru Gold Mad Hairy Fella Monastrell / Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely, vegan-friendly Monastrell-based blend from Jumilla (Spain) that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the March 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Ego Bodegas, a winery project that was established from scratch in 2011 by the husband-and-wife team of Santos Ortiz and Ioana Paunescu. Santos is of Spanish origin, while Ioana was from Romania, and together they settled in the Jumilla wine region of Spain, not far from the historical centre of Jumilla. The project was borne out of their passion and effort, with a vision to produce high-quality wines that showcase the unique terroir of Jumilla.

Santos and Ioana built the winery together, not from the bottom up, but from the roof down, from top to bottom, after they fell in love with a spectacular farm in an elevated area of Jumilla, locally known as the carpenter's place. It was surrounded by old vineyards planted to Monastrell and offered a naturally beautiful landscape. While their business objectives were sales and profitability, they needed to find the right balance to achieve this goal by focusing on the three core concepts of Quality, Image, and Price. In 2013, after two years of hard work, the couple launched their wine brand: Ego Bodegas. The name "Ego Bodegas" is based on the philosophy centred on ego, talento, and infinito - or self, talent, and infinity.

From the beginning, Ego Bodegas has taken a contemporary twist on winemaking by combining traditional methods with modern techniques. They use their modern winemaking facilities to improve quality and efficiency, while striving to seek out the best technology available. With 35 hectares of vineyards planted mostly to native varieties, the winery is focused on producing high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of the region. Their focus is mainly on the native Monastrell varietal as it has adapted well to the soil and climatic conditions of Jumilla. The soil in Jumilla is dark and enriched with lime, while also being permeable with good moisture retention, which helps the vines during periods of drought. The climate in the region is continental, arid, and influenced by the Mediterranean Sea to the east and by the plateau of La Mancha to the west, while also receiving more than 3,000 hours of sunshine per year, which makes Jumilla one of the driest areas in Spain. Today, Ego Bodegas crafts their wines with a dedication to innovation, craftsmanship, and excellence in winemaking.

Like the 2019 El Goru Gold I enjoyed last year, this red is predominantly Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre), with this particular vintage including a bit more Monastrell this time, and the final blend consisting of 80% Monastrell, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. To craft this wine, all three grape varieties were hand-harvested in 15 kg boxes through a strict selection in the vineyard. The grapes underwent supervised maceration in order to achieve the ideal wine profile, and during the entire process, the pigeage pumping down technique was used in order to favour a slower extraction and a synthesis of varietal aromas. It underwent temperature-controlled fermentation, up to a maximum of 28ºC, in order to extract the full potential of each grape variety. The final wine was blended and aged for 12 months in new French and American oak barrels.

The 2020 growing season in Jumilla and southern Spain was marked by early budding, a rainy spring, and a hot, dry summer, conditions which resulted in an early harvest. Yields in the region were also mostly down due to mildew issues. However, 2020 produced an excellent quality vintage. Let's see how this 2020 Monastrell-based red from Jumilla is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL GORU GOLD MAD HAIRY FELLA MONASTRELL / SYRAH / CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Vegan, DOP Jumilla, Spain (#13621) (XD) - $18.95
This blend of 80% Monastrell, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon is fragrant and open, with a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe black & purple fruits, blackberry, cedary oak, spice, black cherry, and plum aromas with whiffs of reductive notes. On the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is dry and spicy with ripe black & purple fruits, cedar oak, plum, black cherry flavours supported by crisp and bright acidity. Touches of licorice and sweet vanillin oak join the party on the mid-palate. Ripe tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. Ripe black fruits with cedary oak and cocoa notes linger on the long and juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A couple of other wines by Ego Bodegas are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

Read More

El Goru 38 Barrels Monastrell / Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Spain) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2019 El Goru Gold Monastrell / Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon last year, we go up a notch for tonight's red wine review with another vegan and organic Monastrell-based blend from the same producer that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO, landing on shelves across Ontario as part of this weekend's January 4 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Ego Bodegas, a prominent winery located in Jumilla, Spain. The project was founded from scratch in 2011 by Santos Ortiz, of Spanish origin, and Ioana Paunescu from Romania. Born out of the partners' passion and effort, while short on financial resources, Santos and Ioana had extraordinary talent for creating wines and coordinating the financial, marketing, and sales departments.

As a couple that was united and committed, both personally and professionally, Santos and Ioana built the winery together from top to bottom, from the roof down, just a few kilometres away from the historical city of Jumilla, after falling in love with a spectacular farm in an area locally known as the carpenter's place. The farm was situated in an elevated area, where they enjoyed the beauty of the landscape that was surrounded by old vineyards planted to the Monastrell varietal. Like any business, their objectives were sales and profitability, but in order to achieve this goal they needed to find the right balance between the three concepts of Quality, Image, and Price. After two years of hard work, Ego Bodegas was launched in 2013 with good wine, a good design, and good pricing. The name "Ego Bodegas" is based on the philosophy centred on ego, talento, and infinito (self, talent, and infinity). With a continuous commitment to improve, Ego Bodegas has quickly gained recognition and a foothold now in over 30 countries.

Today, Ego Bodegas uses its modern winemaking facilities to improve quality and efficiency, while striving to seek out the best technology available. Since the beginning, Santos and Iona have taken a contemporary twist on winemaking by combining traditional methods with modern techniques. With 35 hectares of vineyards planted mostly to native varieties, the winery is focused on producing high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of the region. Monastrell is of particular focus for Ego Bodegas as it is native to Jumilla and has adapted well to the climatic and soil conditions of the region. The continental climate is sunny and arid in Jumilla, and is influenced by the Mediterranean Sea to the east and by the plateau of La Mancha to the west. Moreover, Jumilla receives more than 3,000 hours of sunshine per year, and is one of the driest areas in Spain. The soil in Jumilla is dark and enriched with lime, while also being permeable with good moisture retention, which helps the vines during periods of drought. To craft their exquisite wines, Ego Bodegas spares no detail in delivering wines of consistent quality that are ready to drink, but can also improve with time.

This red wine is a blend of 85% Monastrell and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon that was organically grown in the winegrowing region of Jumilla in southeastern Spain. The grapes were manually selected, harvested, and placed in small boxes with great care. To extract a great amount of aroma and colour, the grapes underwent a week-long cold maceration that was aided by the pigeage method (punch-down), which helps control and regulate the extraction. Temperature-controlled malolactic fermentation and oak ageing took place exclusively and carefully in 38 barrels - where this wine gets its name from. Ageing occurred for 12 months in a combination of both French and American oak. Each varietal was vinified separately prior to blending and bottling.

The 2020 growing season in southern Spain was marked by early budding, a rainy spring, and a hot, dry summer, conditions which resulted in an early harvest. Yields were also mostly down due to mildew issues in the region. From a qualitatively excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Jumilla red tastes tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL GORU 38 BARRELS MONASTRELL / CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Vegan, DO Jumilla, Spain (#41096) (XD) - $22.95 $20.00
This organic blend of 85% Monastrell and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy, offering a ripe black fruit core accented with blackcurrant, purple fruit, oak spice, violet, and savoury earth aromas. Plum, black cherry, and cassis notes emerge with time in the glass. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is ripe and sweetly fruited with delicious blackcurrant, black cherry, savoury oak spice, and earthy flavours, along with hints of cassis and plum. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the smooth, well-structured tannins feel a bit tight at the moment. Composed with a sense of elegance, it is nicely balanced throughout with lovely flavour replays joined by mineral notes on the long, savoury finish. This highly recommended buy is enjoyable now, but should really shine in about 3 years. Score: 90 pts

There is one El Goru wine readily available at the LCBO, while the entire range by Ego Bodegas can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Kew Blanc de Blancs 2017 and Blanc de Noirs 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

After enjoying the excellent 2020 Kew Vineyards Marsanne a few months ago (and still widely available in stores today), tonight's sparkling wine reviews a pair of wonderful bubblies from the same producer in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story on Bubbles in the December 14 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these fantastic bubblies are produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique estate winery situated on the limestone-rich soils of the Beamsville Bench, in the heart of Niagara wine country. Kew Vineyards is situated on a 160-year-old estate, in a homestead built by William Kew that was used by the family to successfully produce carriages.

Once the Kew family's chapter ended, a new chapter began in 1975, when Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. It is owned by Arterra Wines Canada, who acquired the historical property and its 80+ acres of vineyards in 2023. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures.

The focus at Kew Vineyards is on small-batch winemaking, with the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion - passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life. The winemaking team is led by veteran Australian winemaker Philip Dowell, who has focused his life's work on cool-climate wines. The philosophy at Kew is to allow the vineyard to tell its story of each harvest, while also expressing the terroir in order to produce world-class wines that are uniquely Niagara.

The sparkling wines reviewed below are both mono-varietal and vintage sparkling wines. The 2017 Blanc de Blancs is crafted using 100% Chardonnay, while the 2020 Blanc de Noirs was produced using 100% Pinot Noir. The 2017 growing season in Ontario was generally cool with wet weather. At the beginning of September, extended heat and sunshine resulted in one of the nicest autumn seasons on record, as well as a later harvest. Grape quantities were high with a record harvest, while the quality was excellent for white wine varieties. The growing season in 2020 provided near perfect conditions that coaxed the best out of a wide spectrum of grapes from whites to big red Bordeaux varieties, and everything in between, including Pinot Noir. The 2020 vintage produced grapes which reached phenolic ripeness, while also maintaining acidity to allow for balanced wines. Let's see how these two vintage sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Chardonnay that was barrel aged for 5 months prior to bottling for secondary fermentation, and then aged on its lees for 5 years. Fresh, elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers lovely toasty, brioche, and autolytic characters mingling with lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white peach aromas, plus whiffs of pastry and honey adding further complexity and intrigue. It's light-to-mid weighted and essentially dry on the palate with delicious citrusy, ripe apple, toasty, and brioche flavours with touches of autolytic notes and a twist of honey. It has crisp acidity and lively bubbles that freshen the juicy and slightly creamy palate. Subtly spicy with apple, toasty, and brioche flavours that are joined by leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Pinot Noir that was gently whole-berry pressed and fermented in stainless steel, followed by ageing on its lees for 2 years. The medium+ intensity nose offers apple, pear, red cherry, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of biscuit and toast. Some autolytic and honeyed aromas develop with time in the glass. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate is dry with delicious toasty, apple, pear, and lemon citrus flavours with hints of honey, biscuit, and mineral. It has fresh, vibrant acidity and crisp, refreshing mousse, along with a textured and slightly grippy mid-palate. Apple, lemon citrus, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Kew Vineyards can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be purchased directly from the winery in Beamsville (Niagara), or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

Read More

Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Chianti Classico that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month and featured on the back cover of the November 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the modern, co-operative winery of Castelli del Grevepesa, which was established in 1965 by visionary Sir Armando Nunzi and an initial group of 17 winegrowers located in different areas of Florentine Chianti Classico. These winegrowers came together in the 1960s because these were difficult years in the Chianti winegrowing region. Their aim was, by working together, to safeguard the land and maintain the age-old traditions of Tuscan winegrowing with the long-established know-how that farmers passed on from one generation to the next. The growers of Grevepesa also had a shared ambition to introduce innovative production methods and techniques, which included careful grape selection and a rigorously controlled vinification process, to produce high quality wines at affordable prices in compliance with the strict regulations of the law and the consortium of Consorzio Gallo Nero, which is now called Consorzio del Chianti Classico.

Today, Castelli del Grevepesa is made up of more than 120 passionate and hard-working associate winegrowers, and is the largest Chianti Classico family. Castelli del Grevepesa is situated in the village of San Casciano Val di Pesa, within the Greve in Chianti subzone of Chianti Classico. The logo of Castelli del Grevepesa is an iris flower that grows naturally between the villages of Val di Greve and Val di Pesa. As a perennial flower, the iris resists both the sweltering heat of summer and the winter frost, and is a symbol of the solidity of Castelli del Grevepesa and its unbreakable bond with Florentine culture and traditions.

The mission of Castelli del Grevepesa's is to be guardians of hundreds of years of tradition, as their ancestors taught them that wine comes, first and foremost, from the vineyard. The family of Grevepesa winegrowers are committed to promoting the land and safeguarding the traditions of ancient craftsmanship. As one of the first co-operative wineries in Italy, one of their founding values is that fine quality wine must be for everyone and is a source of great pride and satisfaction. As a family's duty, Castelli del Grevepesa's policy seeks to reconcile environmental, social, and economic objectives. The fundamental pillar is for the ethical enhancement and protection of natural resources by reducing waste of any kind, followed by respecting the earth, protecting the surrounding biodiversity, and responsibly ensuring that future generations are not compromised. In 2021, their formal project for environmental sustainability finally took shape and got off the ground.

Like the lovely 2019 Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico that I enjoyed in May of last year, the 2020 vintage of this Chianti Classico is also crafted using 100% Sangiovese. The grapes were grown in their vineyards in Campoli, within the municipality of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Chianti Classico. The vineyards are situated on hills rising up from an alluvial plateau with geological formations of Sillano and Alberese stones. The vines average 15-25 years old, and were trained using the Guyot, spurred cordon system. After handpicking and selecting the best grapes in the second half of September, the grapes were softly crushed and fermented at a thermostatically controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, with maceration on the skins for 12-15 days. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in concrete tanks, and was then matured for 12 months - 85% in Slavonian oak cask and 15% in French oak barriques - followed by 3 months in bottle for further refinement.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was marked by spring frosts that reduced yields. However, the warm summer season and early harvest resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled reds. Moreover, the pandemic allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CLEMENTE VII CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - Sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#421388) (XD) - $22.95
This 100% Sangiovese has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is fresh and ripe with sweet dark red cherry, currant, and clove aromas mingling with oak spices, cinnamon, and underbrush, with touches of dried berry/floral notes. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has very ripe dark red cherry, clove spice, cinnamon, oak spice, and underbrush flavours supported by fresh and succulent acidity. Ripe tannins have a fine, dusty texture and a supple grip. Touch of bitterness on the back palate, while the savoury cocoa and oak notes linger on the mineral-tinged finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over the near term. Score: 88+ pts

A couple of wines by Castelli del Grevepesa are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group, with a couple available as Black Friday Specials.

Read More

Calcu Tiny Blocks Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, sustainable and vegan Cabernet Sauvignon (blend) that made its debut at the LCBO last month as part of the October 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Calcu Vineyards, a winery that began its life in 2003 as the unique project of the Hurtado family who have over a century's worth of winemaking experience making quality wines in the Colchagua Valley. The Hurtado family found a unique place in Marchigüe, in western Colchagua Valley, that is marked by granite stone hills which are the inspiration for the name of the winery - "CAL: Hill" and "CUrá: Stone".

The vineyards in Marchigüe have granite hills with clay seams, and are situated at altitude just 26 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The blend of differing orientations of the slopes makes the perfect blend which reflects the personality of the vineyard, and enables each variety to showcase the characteristic freshness, structure, verve, and depth in each Calcu wine.

With the core values of excellence, perseverance, honesty, and sustainability, Calcu is seeking to redefine Colchagua through the architecture of its vineyards. Excellence is reflected in the crafting of world-class wines by using high standards throughout each process and precision winemaking. With perseverance and determination, Calcu is continuously searching to improve their wine by taking action to achieve their proposed objectives. Honesty is the intention of their wines to naturally reflect their origin, and by scarcely intervening in the vineyards, the environment, and winery management. By adopting sustainable practices, Calcu is constantly implementing new measures and technologies to be more energy efficient, reducing waste and water consumption, while also becoming more environmentally-friendly. One of Calcu's sustainable initiatives was to design their vineyards in small blocks with short rows that minimize soil erosion, while the sloping rows are intended to reduce the risk of accidents for farmworkers.

Today, the passion for the pursuit of excellence is one of the fundamental pillars of the Hurtado family business and is reflected in each of their wines. This pursuit of excellence is implemented through precision viticulture and winemaking to accurately reflect the character of Calcu Vineyards in Marchigüe. Calcu Vineyards shares a winery with its sister company, Viña Maquis, in Palmilla in the Colchagua Valley, where they make and age their wines. This winery was built in 2002 under a sustainable concept and uses gravity technology to gently move the grapes, must, and wine throughout the winery in order to preserve the aromas and flavours of each of its wines. The winery is also innovative in that it is the only winery in Chile with a geothermal plant to generate energy, which is then used for wine production, thereby reducing its consumption of gas by 90%, and electricity by 40% per litre of wine produced.

Like the 2020 Calcu Tiny Blocks Gran Reserva Cabernet Franc, which I enjoyed earlier this year and included small amounts of other grape varieties to complete the blend, this Cabernet Sauvignon includes 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. The grapes were grown at their vineyard in Marchigüe, 25 km from the Pacific Ocean, in the gentle hills of the coastal mountains where the soft breezes coming from the ocean moderate temperatures and allow the grapes to obtain freshness, aromatics, and excellent concentration. The vineyard is planted on granitic soils with important clay content that helps develop persistent aromas and increases concentration in the wine. The tiny blocks selected for this Cabernet Sauvignon have a high clay content, but are poor in organic matter, which helps to obtain lower yields, while also allowing the wines to have fantastic power, structure, and elegance.

To craft this red wine, the grapes were hand-picked, followed by hand-sorting of clusters and berries. It underwent alcoholic fermentation between 20-24°C, maceration for 18 days, and then malolactic fermentation, all in stainless steel tanks. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

The 2020 growing season experienced by Calcu in the Colchagua Valley was marked by a dry and warm climate, which challenged the team to be on high alert in order to identify the right moment of harvest for each block. The time of harvest is very important because this is what allows winemakers to maintain elegance and balance, characteristics which have embodied the wines of Calcu from this terroir. From a good vintage that produced high quality wines with excellent colour intensity and high concentration, which resulted in excellent complexity and very good ageing capability, let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CALCU TINY BLOCKS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Sustainable, Vegan, Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#37867) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot has a whiff of reduction off the top, giving way to reveal fresh layers of ripe red and some black fruits, currant, cassis, and fine wood spice aromas of medium-high intensity, along with touches of dried herbs. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it offers delicious red and some black fruit, currant, cassis, and dried herb flavour replays with smoky oak spice accents. Touch spicy on the mid-palate. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the ripe tannins are smooth and well-structured, with some grip on the back-palate. Minerally and savoury on the long, slightly chalky textured, and youthful finish. Should drink nicely to the end of the decade and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Calcu Vineyards can be ordered through their Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the October 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2013 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico that I enjoyed over six years ago, this red wine is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned winery with deep roots in Tuscany. It was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence and embarked on a career path that took him through his family's business that specialized in clothing manufacturing to become an iconic fashion company in Italy. Marco also had a real estate company and acquired several properties, one of which was Castello di Bossi in 1984.

Oenology was a pleasant hobby for Marco, and in 1985 he bottled his first wine. For many years, Marco balanced his commitment to the fashion world with his passion for wine. In 1996, Marco decided to leave the fashion world and dedicate his heart and soul to the wine industry by focusing on the vine and wine. Over the next few years, he acquired estates in Brunello di Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano to complete the coverage of the three main Tuscan DOCGs.

Jacopo Bacci, son of Marco, was born in Florence in 1984, and after obtaining his diploma in scientific studies, he enrolled in the University of Enology in Florence. By 2004, while still studying oenology, Jacobo joined and expanded the family business by taking responsibility for the Italian, English, and German markets. He continued to expand the family's wine brand presence in North American and Asian markets.

Today, the mission of Bacci Wines is to offer their customers the opportunity to enjoy some of the world's best wines at any time and wherever they may be. Bacci Wines is made up of five estates across Tuscany's best territories covering more than 900 hectares of vineyards, while producing various styles of wines across a wide range of labels. The group of wineries are organic and powered by clean energy. The vision is to produce high-quality, organic wines across their entire portfolio. Bacci Wines firmly believes that by choosing an organic approach, they are able to safeguard the beauty and integrity of their land, while also ensuring extraordinary quality standards and an unparalleled tasting experience.

With several estates owned by Bacci Wines, this particular red wine is from their Tenuta di Renieri Estate, which is located in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southeast of the Chianti Classico territory. This property borders the lands of Castello di Bossi, one of Bacci's other estates, and covers approximately 60 hectares of land, of which 22 hectares are planted to vineyards. Specializing in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, the Renieri estate's vineyards are situated 300 metres above sea-level and south-facing. The soil composition at Renieri varies from yellow clays to tuff, and is supported by a rounded stone skeleton that provides natural drainage.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was somewhat difficult due to the pandemic and a spring frost which reduced yields. However, the long, hot summer with good diurnal temperature variation and important rainfall in June and September led to an early harvest that resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled red wines. The pandemic also allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $22.95
Aged in wooden casks, this organic Sangiovese has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is savoury and slightly reductive, which blows off and reveals a lovely, attractive mix of ripe red & black cherries, rose floral, savoury earth, and sweet spice aromas, plus whiffs crushed stone and blackberry adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has sour dark red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, savoury earth, and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, tangy acidity, while the smooth, supportive, and elegant tannins have good structure and a touch of grip on the back palate. Shows nice balance with savoury earth, mineral, and touches of oak spice lingering on the long, persistent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci Wines estates are available not only at the LCBO, but can also be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2020 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Piedmont that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the prestigious and historic Vietti winery, which was established at the end of the 1800s by Carlo Vietti in the heart of the Langhe wine region, on the highest point of the medieval village of Castiglione Falletto, where it continues to be located today.

In 1917, Mario Vietti, son of Carlo, returned after spending several years in the U.S. and took over the family farm and transformed it into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high quality wines. In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, brought the Vietti family to newer heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture.

With the ambition and foresight of Alfredo, one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione - was born in 1961, and six years later the first Roero Arneis was born. In 1974, as Vietti wines were matched with artist labels, the Vietti brand became an icon and a standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of that time.

In the 1980s, the legacy of Luciana and Alfredo was taken over by their son-in-law, Mario Cordero, followed in the 1990s by their son Luca Currado Vietti, and accompanied by his wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

In 2016, the Krause family purchased the winery and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. The Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins, while also looking towards the future. Today, Vietti holds some of the most valuable and representative vineyards in the Barolo and Barbaresco areas. In total, they have 75 hectares of vineyards across Langhe, Roero, Asti, and Colli Tortonesi. The territory they inhabit, cultivate, take care of, and practice sustainability, has been recognized since 2014 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site - a home for them and the vines.

Vietti has an Agronomic Manifesto with sustainability at its core. Since 2007, Vietti has been practicing sustainable vineyard management techniques. They resort to weeding, promoting biodiversity of the agricultural ecosystem, and minimizing the use of agricultural vehicles. Furthermore, they monitor the impact on the environment around them and act flexibly and adaptively.

With several ranges in the Vietti portfolio, this red wine is from their Classic range and is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent temperature-controlled (28°-32°C) alcoholic fermentation for 3-4 weeks, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel is vinified and aged separately, followed by a selection of lots that will be used for this Langhe Nebbiolo, and those that will continue to be aged for Barolo Castiglione. After malolactic fermentation, further maturation takes place in barriques and large barrels for about 18-20 months, followed by blending in steel, and finally bottled.

The 2020 growing season in Piedmont was an earlier ripening vintage that began with a mild winter, a very wet spring, and followed by a warm summer. Crop size was slightly lower than average, while acidity levels were bright and demonstrated impressive complexity. Overall, the quality in Piedmont in 2020 is excellent, with Langhe Nebbiolo wines showcasing their elegance with rounded tannins. With a vintage that's believed to be even better than the powerful 2019 vintage for Nebbiolo, let's see how this 2020 Nebbiolo from Piedmont is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2020 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $36.95
Clean, fragrant, and perfumed, the very attractive, highly aromatic nose is complex with red & black cherry, floral, underbrush, cinnamon, and fine sweet spice aromas, plus touches of tobacco and savoury earth. The medium-full bodied palate is impressively structured with ripe red berry, cherry, cranberry, savoury earth, and underbrush flavours with hints of oak spice and herbs. Acids are crisp, fresh, and juicy, while the dusty, structured tannins are approachable, yet age worthy. Some orange notes add further complexity to the red cherry, floral, and oak spice finish, with excellent length. Should drink nicely for at least a decade, probably more. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Xavier Vignon Lirac 2020 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the follow-up to the excellent 2019 Xavier Vignon Lirac that I enjoyed nearly three years ago. This latest vintage arrived at the LCBO as part of last month's September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Xavier Vins, a wine label that was established towards the end of the 20th century by celebrated French winemaker Xavier Vignon. The story begins while Xavier was studying in the faculty of pharmacy in the Champagne capital of Reims when he caught the wine bug thanks to a chance encounter with an oenologist. This encounter led to Xavier gaining valuable experience at several Champagne houses and was the beginning of his journey into the world of winegrowing and producing wine.

Today, Xavier Vignon is known for using his expertise in blending and deep understanding of terroir to produce high-quality wines from the Rhône Valley. The philosophy at Xavier Vignon is to use an unusual, original, and creative approach that combines daring with inspiration. His time in Champagne and Bordeaux left a lasting impression on him, with strong values in the freedom of blending and the notion of beginning with an idea before embarking on the creation of the wine. Furthermore, each year is different and a source of surprise. The art of blending different grape varieties imparts complexity to the wine, while also enhancing the terroir. As a means to achieve this philosophy, Xavier Vignon has a wide range of ingredients at his disposal, such as grapes, terroirs, parcels, exposures, altitudes, stainless steel, concrete, and wooden receptacles.

With Xavier's deep knowledge of each and every part of the Rhône Valley, he is able to start by selecting a soil, a parcel, and a varietal with the aim of creating the most loyal and harmonious composition possible. Wines are always the result of contrary or complementary unions, and by bringing together these different entities, it provides the opportunity for the best possible result. Therefore, each cuvée is a unique experience that is an expression of vintage, varietal or terroir. It is also a source of emotion that is guided by the pleasure of sharing, and an invitation to not only dream, but also to better understand those landscapes which Xavier holds close to his heart. Xavier Vignon strives to capture this little part of the southern Rhône in the bottle, to encapsulate all of its aromas, colours, and textures, with the ultimate goal of making people happy.

While the previous vintage was predominantly Grenache, the 2020 vintage is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. This cuvée was crafted using grapes from the heart of the Lirac appellation, one of the most southern Crus of the Rhône Valley and covers the best soils of four communes in the Gard. The grapes come from a selection of 15 parcels within the appellation that are mainly made up of rolled pebbles and clay soils. In the vineyard, the grapes were pruned using the goblet pruning method, which helps limit the sugar content and preserves freshness. In a sunny vintage such as 2020, goblet pruning allows natural acidity to be maintained. Upon determining the harvest dates by daily measurement of polyphenols in the berries, the grapes were manually harvested. It was fermented at a moderate temperature to favour soft diffusion of flavour compounds using 100% free-run juice, with extraction by gravity. All the Grenache was vinified and matured in concrete tanks. Meanwhile, 30% of the Syrah was matured in unheated Allier and Vosges barrels for 12 months, with the remainder matured in concrete tanks.

From an excellent growing season that delivered wines of finesse and elegance, let's see how this 2020 Lirac red from the southern Rhône Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON LIRAC 2020 - AP, Rhône, France (#636183) (XD) - $23.95
Mostly aged in concrete tanks, this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a ripe and spicy medium-high intensity nose that offers lovely black & red cherry, peppery spice, blackberry, and stony mineral aromas with touches of floral and oak spice. The dry, medium-full bodied palate shows elegance and finesse with delicious black raspberry, red & black cherry, peppery spice, and mineral flavours, joined by meaty and floral touches that add complexity. It's well-supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity and smooth, fine-grained, and well-structured tannins. It's nicely balanced throughout with savoury mineral notes lingering on the long, gently chalky finish, with excellent length. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90+ pts

Several lovely wines by Xavier Vignon are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Kew Vineyards Marsanne 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Marsanne from the Beamsville Bench appellation in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the feature on Ontario Wines in the September 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery focused on small-batch production that is located in the heart of Niagara on the Beamsville Bench, an area known for its limestone-rich soils. Situated on a 160-year-old estate, Kew Vineyards epitomizes country style and grace. The winery stands in the Kew homestead, a house which was built by William Kew. The Kew family lived in the home and operated a successful carriage making company from the house. Historically, the Kew homestead was known for mixing business with pleasure, and where the Kew family's chapter ends is when the story of Kew Vineyards begins.

In 1975, Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Today, most of Niagara's Rieslings are based on the Weis Clone.

Kew Vineyards' prides itself on its unique vineyard, which includes some of Ontario's oldest vines, along with a few varietals that are rare for the region. The Marsanne vines at Kew Vineyards are special, unique, and continue to thrive in the cool-climate of Niagara and the challenges it presents. This white wine is one of the few, and perhaps only, Marsanne from Niagara, and almost always contains small amounts of other varieties. For the 2020 vintage, this is a blend of 95.2% Marsanne, 2.4% Viognier, and 2.4% Pinot Gris. To craft this wine, it was fermented for 10 months in larger French oak.

The 2020 growing season in Niagara delivered near-perfect conditions which benefited a wide spectrum of grape varieties. The growing season got off to a slow start, while the summer was hot and dry, resulting in clean and intense fruit. The grapes exhibited brightness, character, acidity, and energy due to cool weather early in the season, but they also displayed the depth of a warm vintage. Overall, it is a great vintage with many great wines across the board. Let's see how this 2020 Marsanne from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KEW VINEYARDS MARSANNE 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#485334) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this is mainly Marsanne with a splash of (2.4%) Viognier and (2.4%) Pinot Gris. Fragrant, open, and slightly perfumed, the medium-high intensity nose offers lovely and complex lemon citrus, ripe apple, herbs, and stony-leesy mineral aromas with touches of white floral. It is impressively weighted on the well-structured, medium+ bodied, textured, and dry palate with touches of vanilla oak and spice notes joining the lemon citrus, ripe apple, stony-leesy mineral flavours. It's very nicely balanced throughout with crisp, refreshing acidity, while the length is excellent with persistent leesy-stony mineral notes lingering on the savoury, long, and crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Limited quantities of other fine wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be purchased directly from winery online or by visiting them in Beamsville, Ontario, or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

Read More

El Enemigo El Mirador Single Vineyard Bonarda 2020 (Argentina) - Wine Review

I enjoyed the excellent 2017 El Enemigo El Mirador Single Vineyard Bonarda a couple of years ago, and for tonight's red wine review I am loving the latest vintage of this single vineyard Bonarda that arrived at the LCBO in the September 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Established in 2008, El Enemigo Wines is the project of two notable Argentine wine figures - Adrianna Catena, the youngest daughter of Nicolás Catena, and Alejandro Vigil. The name El Enemigo means "The Enemy", and reflects the personal philosophy of its founders, which is that the biggest enemy is oneself. Moreover, the philosophy behind El Enemigo is to constantly strive to push boundaries and challenge personal limits.

In that same spirit, El Enemigo Wines emphasize Argentine terroir, while focusing on old world winemaking techniques to create new world wines that are creative and energetic. Furthermore, each wine is crafted to be in balance between old world elegance and new world, fruit-driven intensity.

El Enemigo Wines are produced in the southern foothills of Maipu, Mendoza. They have a number of vineyards across Mendoza, a region known for its high-altitude vineyards in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. Alejandro is a soil expert, holding a Master's Degree in both winemaking and irrigation management, and has been the Winemaking Director at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2007. His strong scientific background led to important developments in both vineyard management and winemaking.

Like the previous vintage, this 100% Bonarda was grown at the El Mirador Vineyard in Rivadavia, a sub-region located in central-north Mendoza. The vineyard is situated at 650 metres (2,132 feet) above sea level and planted on sandy, deep clay soil. To craft this wine, the grapes were fermented using wild yeast at 28°C for 15 days, with 25 days of maceration, followed by maturation in foudre for 12 months.

The 2020 growing season was drier than usual and produced small berries with slightly lower yields. Temperatures were also cooler than average. Harvest occurred 1 to 3 weeks earlier than usual, with the grapes in pristine condition with not a drop of botrytis or downy mildew. From an extremely good vintage that produced boldly coloured, beautifully balanced wines with great fruit character, acidity, and tannins, let's see how this 2020 Single Vineyard Bonarda from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO EL MIRADOR SINGLE VINEYARD BONARDA 2020 - Rivadavia, Mendoza, Argentina (#15120) (XD) - $27.95
Ripe, fragrant, and focused, the medium-high intensity nose offers plummy, dark berry, blackberry, medicinal herbs, and oak spice aromas. On the medium+ bodied, dry, and spicy palate it has lovely dark berry, blackberry, and plum replays joined by stony mineral and savoury oak flavours. It's framed with crisp, juicy acidity and fine-grained, nicely textured tannins with good structure. There's a slightly chalky grip on the back palate, while savoury mineral, dark berry, and plum notes linger on the long, elegant finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5 years. Score: 92 pts

El Enemigo's excellent Chardonnay is available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Tezza Valpolicella Ripasso Valpantena Superiore 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore from the Valpantena Valley in Veneto that arrived at the LCBO today in the August 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Azienda Agricola Tezza, a winery that was established by the Tezza family in 1960. Since the beginning, the family has been immersed in the winemaking traditions of the Valpantena and Valpolicella areas. The Tezza family has been producing wines in the region for three generations, and since 1988 it has been run by three cousins - Flavio, Vanio, and Federico.

Today, the short production chain at Tezza allows the family to apply their fundamental principles, which ensures authenticity, transparency, and excellence, with each and every step of the winemaking process traceable. Each step of the wine production cycle is carried out at the winery, from vine planting in the family vineyards to tending the vines and grapes, harvesting, vinification, and bottling. They have over 28 hectares of vineyards in Valpantena, spanning the townlands of Poiano, Nesente and Sezano, and adhere to the strictest organic farming protocols. As Tezza wines are exported and enjoyed around the world, they express the dedication, care, and energy displayed by the three cousins in their role as winemakers from lands steeped in winemaking history.

To craft their Valpolicella wines, the grapes are dried out (to reduce the amount of water and increase the sugar content) in their new drying hall that boasts modern technology which ensures that every aspect of the drying process, including temperature and humidity, is controlled and the results assured. After vinification, the wines are aged in the barrel hall, the heart of the winery, while the "old cellar" is the inner sanctum of the winery and contains Tezza's most precious wines from the best years.

As guardians of the land and biodiversity in the Valpantena Valley, the Tezza family had been practicing organic and sustainable farming for over 20 years prior to obtaining official organic certification in 2020. With the whole production chain compliant with the stringent protocols laid down by EU Organic and USA NOP, Tezza wines was also awarded Equalitas sustainability certification in 2023.

This red wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella that was grown in the Valpantena viticultural subzone, in central Valpolicella, of the Valpolicella DOC. The soil in these vineyards is calcareous with high organic substances, while also being rich in potassium, calcium, and magnesium. The vines were trained using Guyot and Sloped Pergola Veronese training techniques. After harvest in September and October, the grapes were destemmed and crushed. It was fermented using selected yeasts with maceration in temperature-controlled steel vats, with daily racking and délestage (returning), followed by refermentation on Amarone marc, and then aged for 24 months prior to bottling.

The 2020 growing season was a warmer vintage that produced bright fruit and acidity, along with excellent concentration and elegant tannins. From a very good to excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Valpolicella Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TEZZA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO VALPANTENA SUPERIORE 2020 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#25823) (D) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella. The elegant, medium-high intensity nose has lovely aromas of macerated black & red cherry, blackberry compote, red plum, and sweet wood spices with touches of floral, vanilla, and dried herbs. The medium to medium-full bodied palate is sweet fruited, yet dry, and offers cran-cherry and cassis flavours layered over sandalwood, spice, currant, earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the tannins are well-structured and somewhat youthful. Cran-cherry and cassis notes give way to savoury earth and smoky oak on the long lasting finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 6-8 years. Score: 90+ pts

Limited quantities of Tezza's Amarone is available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

Read More

Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (South Africa) - Wine Review

To begin my long weekend, tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch in South Africa that arrived at the LCBO last month in the July 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Glenelly Estate, an estate winery with a rich heritage that dates back to its establishment in 1682 when Simon van der Stel ceded the land to a French Huguenot, François Villion. However, it was only after the estate was purchased by May de Lencquesaing in 2003 that Glenelly Estate became a wine estate of note.

May de Lencquesaing's family has a centuries-long legacy in the wine industry. Since May's childhood in the heart of Bordeaux's vineyards, she had travelled the world and discovered the amazing diversity of terroirs, and on her first visit to Stellenbosch, she knew she wanted to realize her dream and start a new adventure outside of France. After visiting many vineyards, May de Lencquesaing, at the age of 78, recognized the exciting potential of Glenelly Estate, which was situated on the lower slopes of Simonsberg Mountain, and decided to acquire it in 2003. With the purchase of Glenelly Estate, May wanted to create quality wines by combining French heritage and South Africa's soil and microclimate. Her vision was to establish Glenelly Estate as a world-class estate that produces award-winning wines with power, elegance, and balance.

With a nod to French settlers 300 years prior, Lady May replaced the existing fruit trees and planted vines as a way to establish her vision that best utilizes the soils and microclimate of the valley, while also supporting local economic development and the community. While always endeavouring to positively contribute to every community where she is associated with, in South Africa, May de Lencquesaing is paying special attention within the Glenelly community by focusing on housing, training, and education for her employees' children.

Sustainability is also an important focus for the family. At Glenelly Estate, they do their utmost to ensure a minimal carbon footprint both in the vineyards and at the winery. Some of the steps they have taken towards a more sustainable future include promoting biodiversity and improving the soil life in the vineyards, while also avoiding herbicides or pesticides, as well as planting cover crops between the rows of vines. In 2018, Glenelly began experimenting with organic viticulture, and by 2025 they intend to be fully certified organic. Water resources are carefully managed by using a virtually closed system, with minimal irrigation. The state-of-the-art winery facility was built with environmentally friendly practices in mind. Some of the items built include the use of a 4-level gravity-fed cellar that is only exposed to the gentle morning sun, and a glass facade which allows for natural light and reduces electricity usage. Concrete with 15 km of pipes snaking through the walls and ceilings was used to construct the cellar - concrete because it is thermally very stable and needs very little energy to maintain, while the pipes have cool water running through them, which reduces energy usage by 70%. On the roof, there are cylindrical tubes (void formers) which lock air inside the structure, as well as solar panels which provide the winery with all the electricity it needs.

The label of every bottle of Glenelly wine has a 1783 stamp, which signifies the family's 250 years of involvement in the continues into the 21st century at Glenelly Estate in South Africa. The family's ancestor, Elie Miailhe, was granted the title of "Royal Wine Broker" in 1783, with May de Lencquesaing (neé Miailhe) continuing this tradition together with her grandchildren, Nicolas and Maxime Bureau.

This red wine is from Glenelly's Glass Collection range, which celebrates May's lifelong passion for the art of glassmaking. It is crafted using 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was selected from various parcels grown on the slopes of Glenelly. The grapes were harvested and brought into the winery where they were lightly crushed into stainless steel tanks. It was wild fermented using natural ambient yeast with a mixture of rack-and-returns and open pump-overs, followed by post-fermentation skin contact which lasted for 2 to 3 weeks, and then undergoing a gentle press. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels and was racked, on average, every 4 months, and then matured in oak for 12 months.

The growing season began with an exceptionally warm and dry spring, which resulted in good and even bud burst, while temperatures were in-line with historical averages during flowering and berry set period, with significantly fewer fluctuations. Good rainfall towards the end of October replenished the dry soil profile, which resulted in stress-free flowering and berry set. Moderate climatic conditions during the growing season, as well as seasonal rainfall just before harvest, laid the foundation for a good harvest that produced grapes of excellent quality. Effective canopy management and helped promote ripening, and good levels of acidity and sugar. The sustained, moderate temperatures until the end of March led to effective plant functioning and full maturity, which resulted in great concentration, structure, and desired alcohol levels. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GLENELLY GLASS COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13316) (XD) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has a lovely, medium-high intensity nose that is fresh, balanced, and complex with red & black fruits, currant, cassis, blackberry, grilled herbs, mint, toasty oak spice, and savoury earth aromas. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has delicious aroma replays joined by some ripe plummy notes and smoke adding further complexity on the flavour profile. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the supple, well-structured tannins have a slightly chalky textured grip that will soften with time. Nicely balanced throughout with blackberry, savoury earth, and smoky notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. A highly recommended buy to enjoy to the end of the decade. Score: 90+ pts

A few bottles of Glenelly's flagship Lady May is available at the LCBO, while the rest of their portfolio can be ordered (while also collecting Air Miles) through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More