Kew Blanc de Blancs 2017 and Blanc de Noirs 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

After enjoying the excellent 2020 Kew Vineyards Marsanne a few months ago (and still widely available in stores today), tonight's sparkling wine reviews a pair of wonderful bubblies from the same producer in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story on Bubbles in the December 14 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these fantastic bubblies are produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique estate winery situated on the limestone-rich soils of the Beamsville Bench, in the heart of Niagara wine country. Kew Vineyards is situated on a 160-year-old estate, in a homestead built by William Kew that was used by the family to successfully produce carriages.

Once the Kew family's chapter ended, a new chapter began in 1975, when Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. It is owned by Arterra Wines Canada, who acquired the historical property and its 80+ acres of vineyards in 2023. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures.

The focus at Kew Vineyards is on small-batch winemaking, with the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion - passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life. The winemaking team is led by veteran Australian winemaker Philip Dowell, who has focused his life's work on cool-climate wines. The philosophy at Kew is to allow the vineyard to tell its story of each harvest, while also expressing the terroir in order to produce world-class wines that are uniquely Niagara.

The sparkling wines reviewed below are both mono-varietal and vintage sparkling wines. The 2017 Blanc de Blancs is crafted using 100% Chardonnay, while the 2020 Blanc de Noirs was produced using 100% Pinot Noir. The 2017 growing season in Ontario was generally cool with wet weather. At the beginning of September, extended heat and sunshine resulted in one of the nicest autumn seasons on record, as well as a later harvest. Grape quantities were high with a record harvest, while the quality was excellent for white wine varieties. The growing season in 2020 provided near perfect conditions that coaxed the best out of a wide spectrum of grapes from whites to big red Bordeaux varieties, and everything in between, including Pinot Noir. The 2020 vintage produced grapes which reached phenolic ripeness, while also maintaining acidity to allow for balanced wines. Let's see how these two vintage sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Chardonnay that was barrel aged for 5 months prior to bottling for secondary fermentation, and then aged on its lees for 5 years. Fresh, elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers lovely toasty, brioche, and autolytic characters mingling with lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white peach aromas, plus whiffs of pastry and honey adding further complexity and intrigue. It's light-to-mid weighted and essentially dry on the palate with delicious citrusy, ripe apple, toasty, and brioche flavours with touches of autolytic notes and a twist of honey. It has crisp acidity and lively bubbles that freshen the juicy and slightly creamy palate. Subtly spicy with apple, toasty, and brioche flavours that are joined by leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Pinot Noir that was gently whole-berry pressed and fermented in stainless steel, followed by ageing on its lees for 2 years. The medium+ intensity nose offers apple, pear, red cherry, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of biscuit and toast. Some autolytic and honeyed aromas develop with time in the glass. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate is dry with delicious toasty, apple, pear, and lemon citrus flavours with hints of honey, biscuit, and mineral. It has fresh, vibrant acidity and crisp, refreshing mousse, along with a textured and slightly grippy mid-palate. Apple, lemon citrus, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Kew Vineyards can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be purchased directly from the winery in Beamsville (Niagara), or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

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Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Chianti Classico that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month and featured on the back cover of the November 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the modern, co-operative winery of Castelli del Grevepesa, which was established in 1965 by visionary Sir Armando Nunzi and an initial group of 17 winegrowers located in different areas of Florentine Chianti Classico. These winegrowers came together in the 1960s because these were difficult years in the Chianti winegrowing region. Their aim was, by working together, to safeguard the land and maintain the age-old traditions of Tuscan winegrowing with the long-established know-how that farmers passed on from one generation to the next. The growers of Grevepesa also had a shared ambition to introduce innovative production methods and techniques, which included careful grape selection and a rigorously controlled vinification process, to produce high quality wines at affordable prices in compliance with the strict regulations of the law and the consortium of Consorzio Gallo Nero, which is now called Consorzio del Chianti Classico.

Today, Castelli del Grevepesa is made up of more than 120 passionate and hard-working associate winegrowers, and is the largest Chianti Classico family. Castelli del Grevepesa is situated in the village of San Casciano Val di Pesa, within the Greve in Chianti subzone of Chianti Classico. The logo of Castelli del Grevepesa is an iris flower that grows naturally between the villages of Val di Greve and Val di Pesa. As a perennial flower, the iris resists both the sweltering heat of summer and the winter frost, and is a symbol of the solidity of Castelli del Grevepesa and its unbreakable bond with Florentine culture and traditions.

The mission of Castelli del Grevepesa's is to be guardians of hundreds of years of tradition, as their ancestors taught them that wine comes, first and foremost, from the vineyard. The family of Grevepesa winegrowers are committed to promoting the land and safeguarding the traditions of ancient craftsmanship. As one of the first co-operative wineries in Italy, one of their founding values is that fine quality wine must be for everyone and is a source of great pride and satisfaction. As a family's duty, Castelli del Grevepesa's policy seeks to reconcile environmental, social, and economic objectives. The fundamental pillar is for the ethical enhancement and protection of natural resources by reducing waste of any kind, followed by respecting the earth, protecting the surrounding biodiversity, and responsibly ensuring that future generations are not compromised. In 2021, their formal project for environmental sustainability finally took shape and got off the ground.

Like the lovely 2019 Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico that I enjoyed in May of last year, the 2020 vintage of this Chianti Classico is also crafted using 100% Sangiovese. The grapes were grown in their vineyards in Campoli, within the municipality of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Chianti Classico. The vineyards are situated on hills rising up from an alluvial plateau with geological formations of Sillano and Alberese stones. The vines average 15-25 years old, and were trained using the Guyot, spurred cordon system. After handpicking and selecting the best grapes in the second half of September, the grapes were softly crushed and fermented at a thermostatically controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, with maceration on the skins for 12-15 days. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in concrete tanks, and was then matured for 12 months - 85% in Slavonian oak cask and 15% in French oak barriques - followed by 3 months in bottle for further refinement.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was marked by spring frosts that reduced yields. However, the warm summer season and early harvest resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled reds. Moreover, the pandemic allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CLEMENTE VII CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - Sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#421388) (XD) - $22.95
This 100% Sangiovese has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is fresh and ripe with sweet dark red cherry, currant, and clove aromas mingling with oak spices, cinnamon, and underbrush, with touches of dried berry/floral notes. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has very ripe dark red cherry, clove spice, cinnamon, oak spice, and underbrush flavours supported by fresh and succulent acidity. Ripe tannins have a fine, dusty texture and a supple grip. Touch of bitterness on the back palate, while the savoury cocoa and oak notes linger on the mineral-tinged finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over the near term. Score: 88+ pts

A couple of wines by Castelli del Grevepesa are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group, with a couple available as Black Friday Specials.

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Calcu Tiny Blocks Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, sustainable and vegan Cabernet Sauvignon (blend) that made its debut at the LCBO last month as part of the October 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Calcu Vineyards, a winery that began its life in 2003 as the unique project of the Hurtado family who have over a century's worth of winemaking experience making quality wines in the Colchagua Valley. The Hurtado family found a unique place in Marchigüe, in western Colchagua Valley, that is marked by granite stone hills which are the inspiration for the name of the winery - "CAL: Hill" and "CUrá: Stone".

The vineyards in Marchigüe have granite hills with clay seams, and are situated at altitude just 26 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. The blend of differing orientations of the slopes makes the perfect blend which reflects the personality of the vineyard, and enables each variety to showcase the characteristic freshness, structure, verve, and depth in each Calcu wine.

With the core values of excellence, perseverance, honesty, and sustainability, Calcu is seeking to redefine Colchagua through the architecture of its vineyards. Excellence is reflected in the crafting of world-class wines by using high standards throughout each process and precision winemaking. With perseverance and determination, Calcu is continuously searching to improve their wine by taking action to achieve their proposed objectives. Honesty is the intention of their wines to naturally reflect their origin, and by scarcely intervening in the vineyards, the environment, and winery management. By adopting sustainable practices, Calcu is constantly implementing new measures and technologies to be more energy efficient, reducing waste and water consumption, while also becoming more environmentally-friendly. One of Calcu's sustainable initiatives was to design their vineyards in small blocks with short rows that minimize soil erosion, while the sloping rows are intended to reduce the risk of accidents for farmworkers.

Today, the passion for the pursuit of excellence is one of the fundamental pillars of the Hurtado family business and is reflected in each of their wines. This pursuit of excellence is implemented through precision viticulture and winemaking to accurately reflect the character of Calcu Vineyards in Marchigüe. Calcu Vineyards shares a winery with its sister company, Viña Maquis, in Palmilla in the Colchagua Valley, where they make and age their wines. This winery was built in 2002 under a sustainable concept and uses gravity technology to gently move the grapes, must, and wine throughout the winery in order to preserve the aromas and flavours of each of its wines. The winery is also innovative in that it is the only winery in Chile with a geothermal plant to generate energy, which is then used for wine production, thereby reducing its consumption of gas by 90%, and electricity by 40% per litre of wine produced.

Like the 2020 Calcu Tiny Blocks Gran Reserva Cabernet Franc, which I enjoyed earlier this year and included small amounts of other grape varieties to complete the blend, this Cabernet Sauvignon includes 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. The grapes were grown at their vineyard in Marchigüe, 25 km from the Pacific Ocean, in the gentle hills of the coastal mountains where the soft breezes coming from the ocean moderate temperatures and allow the grapes to obtain freshness, aromatics, and excellent concentration. The vineyard is planted on granitic soils with important clay content that helps develop persistent aromas and increases concentration in the wine. The tiny blocks selected for this Cabernet Sauvignon have a high clay content, but are poor in organic matter, which helps to obtain lower yields, while also allowing the wines to have fantastic power, structure, and elegance.

To craft this red wine, the grapes were hand-picked, followed by hand-sorting of clusters and berries. It underwent alcoholic fermentation between 20-24°C, maceration for 18 days, and then malolactic fermentation, all in stainless steel tanks. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

The 2020 growing season experienced by Calcu in the Colchagua Valley was marked by a dry and warm climate, which challenged the team to be on high alert in order to identify the right moment of harvest for each block. The time of harvest is very important because this is what allows winemakers to maintain elegance and balance, characteristics which have embodied the wines of Calcu from this terroir. From a good vintage that produced high quality wines with excellent colour intensity and high concentration, which resulted in excellent complexity and very good ageing capability, let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CALCU TINY BLOCKS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Sustainable, Vegan, Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#37867) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot has a whiff of reduction off the top, giving way to reveal fresh layers of ripe red and some black fruits, currant, cassis, and fine wood spice aromas of medium-high intensity, along with touches of dried herbs. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it offers delicious red and some black fruit, currant, cassis, and dried herb flavour replays with smoky oak spice accents. Touch spicy on the mid-palate. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the ripe tannins are smooth and well-structured, with some grip on the back-palate. Minerally and savoury on the long, slightly chalky textured, and youthful finish. Should drink nicely to the end of the decade and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Calcu Vineyards can be ordered through their Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits.

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Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the October 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2013 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico that I enjoyed over six years ago, this red wine is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned winery with deep roots in Tuscany. It was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence and embarked on a career path that took him through his family's business that specialized in clothing manufacturing to become an iconic fashion company in Italy. Marco also had a real estate company and acquired several properties, one of which was Castello di Bossi in 1984.

Oenology was a pleasant hobby for Marco, and in 1985 he bottled his first wine. For many years, Marco balanced his commitment to the fashion world with his passion for wine. In 1996, Marco decided to leave the fashion world and dedicate his heart and soul to the wine industry by focusing on the vine and wine. Over the next few years, he acquired estates in Brunello di Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano to complete the coverage of the three main Tuscan DOCGs.

Jacopo Bacci, son of Marco, was born in Florence in 1984, and after obtaining his diploma in scientific studies, he enrolled in the University of Enology in Florence. By 2004, while still studying oenology, Jacobo joined and expanded the family business by taking responsibility for the Italian, English, and German markets. He continued to expand the family's wine brand presence in North American and Asian markets.

Today, the mission of Bacci Wines is to offer their customers the opportunity to enjoy some of the world's best wines at any time and wherever they may be. Bacci Wines is made up of five estates across Tuscany's best territories covering more than 900 hectares of vineyards, while producing various styles of wines across a wide range of labels. The group of wineries are organic and powered by clean energy. The vision is to produce high-quality, organic wines across their entire portfolio. Bacci Wines firmly believes that by choosing an organic approach, they are able to safeguard the beauty and integrity of their land, while also ensuring extraordinary quality standards and an unparalleled tasting experience.

With several estates owned by Bacci Wines, this particular red wine is from their Tenuta di Renieri Estate, which is located in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southeast of the Chianti Classico territory. This property borders the lands of Castello di Bossi, one of Bacci's other estates, and covers approximately 60 hectares of land, of which 22 hectares are planted to vineyards. Specializing in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, the Renieri estate's vineyards are situated 300 metres above sea-level and south-facing. The soil composition at Renieri varies from yellow clays to tuff, and is supported by a rounded stone skeleton that provides natural drainage.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was somewhat difficult due to the pandemic and a spring frost which reduced yields. However, the long, hot summer with good diurnal temperature variation and important rainfall in June and September led to an early harvest that resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled red wines. The pandemic also allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $22.95
Aged in wooden casks, this organic Sangiovese has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is savoury and slightly reductive, which blows off and reveals a lovely, attractive mix of ripe red & black cherries, rose floral, savoury earth, and sweet spice aromas, plus whiffs crushed stone and blackberry adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has sour dark red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, savoury earth, and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, tangy acidity, while the smooth, supportive, and elegant tannins have good structure and a touch of grip on the back palate. Shows nice balance with savoury earth, mineral, and touches of oak spice lingering on the long, persistent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci Wines estates are available not only at the LCBO, but can also be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2020 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Piedmont that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the prestigious and historic Vietti winery, which was established at the end of the 1800s by Carlo Vietti in the heart of the Langhe wine region, on the highest point of the medieval village of Castiglione Falletto, where it continues to be located today.

In 1917, Mario Vietti, son of Carlo, returned after spending several years in the U.S. and took over the family farm and transformed it into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high quality wines. In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, brought the Vietti family to newer heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture.

With the ambition and foresight of Alfredo, one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione - was born in 1961, and six years later the first Roero Arneis was born. In 1974, as Vietti wines were matched with artist labels, the Vietti brand became an icon and a standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of that time.

In the 1980s, the legacy of Luciana and Alfredo was taken over by their son-in-law, Mario Cordero, followed in the 1990s by their son Luca Currado Vietti, and accompanied by his wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

In 2016, the Krause family purchased the winery and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. The Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins, while also looking towards the future. Today, Vietti holds some of the most valuable and representative vineyards in the Barolo and Barbaresco areas. In total, they have 75 hectares of vineyards across Langhe, Roero, Asti, and Colli Tortonesi. The territory they inhabit, cultivate, take care of, and practice sustainability, has been recognized since 2014 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site - a home for them and the vines.

Vietti has an Agronomic Manifesto with sustainability at its core. Since 2007, Vietti has been practicing sustainable vineyard management techniques. They resort to weeding, promoting biodiversity of the agricultural ecosystem, and minimizing the use of agricultural vehicles. Furthermore, they monitor the impact on the environment around them and act flexibly and adaptively.

With several ranges in the Vietti portfolio, this red wine is from their Classic range and is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent temperature-controlled (28°-32°C) alcoholic fermentation for 3-4 weeks, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel is vinified and aged separately, followed by a selection of lots that will be used for this Langhe Nebbiolo, and those that will continue to be aged for Barolo Castiglione. After malolactic fermentation, further maturation takes place in barriques and large barrels for about 18-20 months, followed by blending in steel, and finally bottled.

The 2020 growing season in Piedmont was an earlier ripening vintage that began with a mild winter, a very wet spring, and followed by a warm summer. Crop size was slightly lower than average, while acidity levels were bright and demonstrated impressive complexity. Overall, the quality in Piedmont in 2020 is excellent, with Langhe Nebbiolo wines showcasing their elegance with rounded tannins. With a vintage that's believed to be even better than the powerful 2019 vintage for Nebbiolo, let's see how this 2020 Nebbiolo from Piedmont is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2020 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $36.95
Clean, fragrant, and perfumed, the very attractive, highly aromatic nose is complex with red & black cherry, floral, underbrush, cinnamon, and fine sweet spice aromas, plus touches of tobacco and savoury earth. The medium-full bodied palate is impressively structured with ripe red berry, cherry, cranberry, savoury earth, and underbrush flavours with hints of oak spice and herbs. Acids are crisp, fresh, and juicy, while the dusty, structured tannins are approachable, yet age worthy. Some orange notes add further complexity to the red cherry, floral, and oak spice finish, with excellent length. Should drink nicely for at least a decade, probably more. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Xavier Vignon Lirac 2020 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the follow-up to the excellent 2019 Xavier Vignon Lirac that I enjoyed nearly three years ago. This latest vintage arrived at the LCBO as part of last month's September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Xavier Vins, a wine label that was established towards the end of the 20th century by celebrated French winemaker Xavier Vignon. The story begins while Xavier was studying in the faculty of pharmacy in the Champagne capital of Reims when he caught the wine bug thanks to a chance encounter with an oenologist. This encounter led to Xavier gaining valuable experience at several Champagne houses and was the beginning of his journey into the world of winegrowing and producing wine.

Today, Xavier Vignon is known for using his expertise in blending and deep understanding of terroir to produce high-quality wines from the Rhône Valley. The philosophy at Xavier Vignon is to use an unusual, original, and creative approach that combines daring with inspiration. His time in Champagne and Bordeaux left a lasting impression on him, with strong values in the freedom of blending and the notion of beginning with an idea before embarking on the creation of the wine. Furthermore, each year is different and a source of surprise. The art of blending different grape varieties imparts complexity to the wine, while also enhancing the terroir. As a means to achieve this philosophy, Xavier Vignon has a wide range of ingredients at his disposal, such as grapes, terroirs, parcels, exposures, altitudes, stainless steel, concrete, and wooden receptacles.

With Xavier's deep knowledge of each and every part of the Rhône Valley, he is able to start by selecting a soil, a parcel, and a varietal with the aim of creating the most loyal and harmonious composition possible. Wines are always the result of contrary or complementary unions, and by bringing together these different entities, it provides the opportunity for the best possible result. Therefore, each cuvée is a unique experience that is an expression of vintage, varietal or terroir. It is also a source of emotion that is guided by the pleasure of sharing, and an invitation to not only dream, but also to better understand those landscapes which Xavier holds close to his heart. Xavier Vignon strives to capture this little part of the southern Rhône in the bottle, to encapsulate all of its aromas, colours, and textures, with the ultimate goal of making people happy.

While the previous vintage was predominantly Grenache, the 2020 vintage is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. This cuvée was crafted using grapes from the heart of the Lirac appellation, one of the most southern Crus of the Rhône Valley and covers the best soils of four communes in the Gard. The grapes come from a selection of 15 parcels within the appellation that are mainly made up of rolled pebbles and clay soils. In the vineyard, the grapes were pruned using the goblet pruning method, which helps limit the sugar content and preserves freshness. In a sunny vintage such as 2020, goblet pruning allows natural acidity to be maintained. Upon determining the harvest dates by daily measurement of polyphenols in the berries, the grapes were manually harvested. It was fermented at a moderate temperature to favour soft diffusion of flavour compounds using 100% free-run juice, with extraction by gravity. All the Grenache was vinified and matured in concrete tanks. Meanwhile, 30% of the Syrah was matured in unheated Allier and Vosges barrels for 12 months, with the remainder matured in concrete tanks.

From an excellent growing season that delivered wines of finesse and elegance, let's see how this 2020 Lirac red from the southern Rhône Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON LIRAC 2020 - AP, Rhône, France (#636183) (XD) - $23.95
Mostly aged in concrete tanks, this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a ripe and spicy medium-high intensity nose that offers lovely black & red cherry, peppery spice, blackberry, and stony mineral aromas with touches of floral and oak spice. The dry, medium-full bodied palate shows elegance and finesse with delicious black raspberry, red & black cherry, peppery spice, and mineral flavours, joined by meaty and floral touches that add complexity. It's well-supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity and smooth, fine-grained, and well-structured tannins. It's nicely balanced throughout with savoury mineral notes lingering on the long, gently chalky finish, with excellent length. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90+ pts

Several lovely wines by Xavier Vignon are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Kew Vineyards Marsanne 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Marsanne from the Beamsville Bench appellation in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the feature on Ontario Wines in the September 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery focused on small-batch production that is located in the heart of Niagara on the Beamsville Bench, an area known for its limestone-rich soils. Situated on a 160-year-old estate, Kew Vineyards epitomizes country style and grace. The winery stands in the Kew homestead, a house which was built by William Kew. The Kew family lived in the home and operated a successful carriage making company from the house. Historically, the Kew homestead was known for mixing business with pleasure, and where the Kew family's chapter ends is when the story of Kew Vineyards begins.

In 1975, Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Today, most of Niagara's Rieslings are based on the Weis Clone.

Kew Vineyards' prides itself on its unique vineyard, which includes some of Ontario's oldest vines, along with a few varietals that are rare for the region. The Marsanne vines at Kew Vineyards are special, unique, and continue to thrive in the cool-climate of Niagara and the challenges it presents. This white wine is one of the few, and perhaps only, Marsanne from Niagara, and almost always contains small amounts of other varieties. For the 2020 vintage, this is a blend of 95.2% Marsanne, 2.4% Viognier, and 2.4% Pinot Gris. To craft this wine, it was fermented for 10 months in larger French oak.

The 2020 growing season in Niagara delivered near-perfect conditions which benefited a wide spectrum of grape varieties. The growing season got off to a slow start, while the summer was hot and dry, resulting in clean and intense fruit. The grapes exhibited brightness, character, acidity, and energy due to cool weather early in the season, but they also displayed the depth of a warm vintage. Overall, it is a great vintage with many great wines across the board. Let's see how this 2020 Marsanne from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KEW VINEYARDS MARSANNE 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#485334) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this is mainly Marsanne with a splash of (2.4%) Viognier and (2.4%) Pinot Gris. Fragrant, open, and slightly perfumed, the medium-high intensity nose offers lovely and complex lemon citrus, ripe apple, herbs, and stony-leesy mineral aromas with touches of white floral. It is impressively weighted on the well-structured, medium+ bodied, textured, and dry palate with touches of vanilla oak and spice notes joining the lemon citrus, ripe apple, stony-leesy mineral flavours. It's very nicely balanced throughout with crisp, refreshing acidity, while the length is excellent with persistent leesy-stony mineral notes lingering on the savoury, long, and crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Limited quantities of other fine wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be purchased directly from winery online or by visiting them in Beamsville, Ontario, or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

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El Enemigo El Mirador Single Vineyard Bonarda 2020 (Argentina) - Wine Review

I enjoyed the excellent 2017 El Enemigo El Mirador Single Vineyard Bonarda a couple of years ago, and for tonight's red wine review I am loving the latest vintage of this single vineyard Bonarda that arrived at the LCBO in the September 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Established in 2008, El Enemigo Wines is the project of two notable Argentine wine figures - Adrianna Catena, the youngest daughter of Nicolás Catena, and Alejandro Vigil. The name El Enemigo means "The Enemy", and reflects the personal philosophy of its founders, which is that the biggest enemy is oneself. Moreover, the philosophy behind El Enemigo is to constantly strive to push boundaries and challenge personal limits.

In that same spirit, El Enemigo Wines emphasize Argentine terroir, while focusing on old world winemaking techniques to create new world wines that are creative and energetic. Furthermore, each wine is crafted to be in balance between old world elegance and new world, fruit-driven intensity.

El Enemigo Wines are produced in the southern foothills of Maipu, Mendoza. They have a number of vineyards across Mendoza, a region known for its high-altitude vineyards in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. Alejandro is a soil expert, holding a Master's Degree in both winemaking and irrigation management, and has been the Winemaking Director at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2007. His strong scientific background led to important developments in both vineyard management and winemaking.

Like the previous vintage, this 100% Bonarda was grown at the El Mirador Vineyard in Rivadavia, a sub-region located in central-north Mendoza. The vineyard is situated at 650 metres (2,132 feet) above sea level and planted on sandy, deep clay soil. To craft this wine, the grapes were fermented using wild yeast at 28°C for 15 days, with 25 days of maceration, followed by maturation in foudre for 12 months.

The 2020 growing season was drier than usual and produced small berries with slightly lower yields. Temperatures were also cooler than average. Harvest occurred 1 to 3 weeks earlier than usual, with the grapes in pristine condition with not a drop of botrytis or downy mildew. From an extremely good vintage that produced boldly coloured, beautifully balanced wines with great fruit character, acidity, and tannins, let's see how this 2020 Single Vineyard Bonarda from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO EL MIRADOR SINGLE VINEYARD BONARDA 2020 - Rivadavia, Mendoza, Argentina (#15120) (XD) - $27.95
Ripe, fragrant, and focused, the medium-high intensity nose offers plummy, dark berry, blackberry, medicinal herbs, and oak spice aromas. On the medium+ bodied, dry, and spicy palate it has lovely dark berry, blackberry, and plum replays joined by stony mineral and savoury oak flavours. It's framed with crisp, juicy acidity and fine-grained, nicely textured tannins with good structure. There's a slightly chalky grip on the back palate, while savoury mineral, dark berry, and plum notes linger on the long, elegant finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5 years. Score: 92 pts

El Enemigo's excellent Chardonnay is available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Tezza Valpolicella Ripasso Valpantena Superiore 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore from the Valpantena Valley in Veneto that arrived at the LCBO today in the August 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Azienda Agricola Tezza, a winery that was established by the Tezza family in 1960. Since the beginning, the family has been immersed in the winemaking traditions of the Valpantena and Valpolicella areas. The Tezza family has been producing wines in the region for three generations, and since 1988 it has been run by three cousins - Flavio, Vanio, and Federico.

Today, the short production chain at Tezza allows the family to apply their fundamental principles, which ensures authenticity, transparency, and excellence, with each and every step of the winemaking process traceable. Each step of the wine production cycle is carried out at the winery, from vine planting in the family vineyards to tending the vines and grapes, harvesting, vinification, and bottling. They have over 28 hectares of vineyards in Valpantena, spanning the townlands of Poiano, Nesente and Sezano, and adhere to the strictest organic farming protocols. As Tezza wines are exported and enjoyed around the world, they express the dedication, care, and energy displayed by the three cousins in their role as winemakers from lands steeped in winemaking history.

To craft their Valpolicella wines, the grapes are dried out (to reduce the amount of water and increase the sugar content) in their new drying hall that boasts modern technology which ensures that every aspect of the drying process, including temperature and humidity, is controlled and the results assured. After vinification, the wines are aged in the barrel hall, the heart of the winery, while the "old cellar" is the inner sanctum of the winery and contains Tezza's most precious wines from the best years.

As guardians of the land and biodiversity in the Valpantena Valley, the Tezza family had been practicing organic and sustainable farming for over 20 years prior to obtaining official organic certification in 2020. With the whole production chain compliant with the stringent protocols laid down by EU Organic and USA NOP, Tezza wines was also awarded Equalitas sustainability certification in 2023.

This red wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella that was grown in the Valpantena viticultural subzone, in central Valpolicella, of the Valpolicella DOC. The soil in these vineyards is calcareous with high organic substances, while also being rich in potassium, calcium, and magnesium. The vines were trained using Guyot and Sloped Pergola Veronese training techniques. After harvest in September and October, the grapes were destemmed and crushed. It was fermented using selected yeasts with maceration in temperature-controlled steel vats, with daily racking and délestage (returning), followed by refermentation on Amarone marc, and then aged for 24 months prior to bottling.

The 2020 growing season was a warmer vintage that produced bright fruit and acidity, along with excellent concentration and elegant tannins. From a very good to excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Valpolicella Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TEZZA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO VALPANTENA SUPERIORE 2020 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#25823) (D) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella. The elegant, medium-high intensity nose has lovely aromas of macerated black & red cherry, blackberry compote, red plum, and sweet wood spices with touches of floral, vanilla, and dried herbs. The medium to medium-full bodied palate is sweet fruited, yet dry, and offers cran-cherry and cassis flavours layered over sandalwood, spice, currant, earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the tannins are well-structured and somewhat youthful. Cran-cherry and cassis notes give way to savoury earth and smoky oak on the long lasting finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 6-8 years. Score: 90+ pts

Limited quantities of Tezza's Amarone is available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (South Africa) - Wine Review

To begin my long weekend, tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch in South Africa that arrived at the LCBO last month in the July 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Glenelly Estate, an estate winery with a rich heritage that dates back to its establishment in 1682 when Simon van der Stel ceded the land to a French Huguenot, François Villion. However, it was only after the estate was purchased by May de Lencquesaing in 2003 that Glenelly Estate became a wine estate of note.

May de Lencquesaing's family has a centuries-long legacy in the wine industry. Since May's childhood in the heart of Bordeaux's vineyards, she had travelled the world and discovered the amazing diversity of terroirs, and on her first visit to Stellenbosch, she knew she wanted to realize her dream and start a new adventure outside of France. After visiting many vineyards, May de Lencquesaing, at the age of 78, recognized the exciting potential of Glenelly Estate, which was situated on the lower slopes of Simonsberg Mountain, and decided to acquire it in 2003. With the purchase of Glenelly Estate, May wanted to create quality wines by combining French heritage and South Africa's soil and microclimate. Her vision was to establish Glenelly Estate as a world-class estate that produces award-winning wines with power, elegance, and balance.

With a nod to French settlers 300 years prior, Lady May replaced the existing fruit trees and planted vines as a way to establish her vision that best utilizes the soils and microclimate of the valley, while also supporting local economic development and the community. While always endeavouring to positively contribute to every community where she is associated with, in South Africa, May de Lencquesaing is paying special attention within the Glenelly community by focusing on housing, training, and education for her employees' children.

Sustainability is also an important focus for the family. At Glenelly Estate, they do their utmost to ensure a minimal carbon footprint both in the vineyards and at the winery. Some of the steps they have taken towards a more sustainable future include promoting biodiversity and improving the soil life in the vineyards, while also avoiding herbicides or pesticides, as well as planting cover crops between the rows of vines. In 2018, Glenelly began experimenting with organic viticulture, and by 2025 they intend to be fully certified organic. Water resources are carefully managed by using a virtually closed system, with minimal irrigation. The state-of-the-art winery facility was built with environmentally friendly practices in mind. Some of the items built include the use of a 4-level gravity-fed cellar that is only exposed to the gentle morning sun, and a glass facade which allows for natural light and reduces electricity usage. Concrete with 15 km of pipes snaking through the walls and ceilings was used to construct the cellar - concrete because it is thermally very stable and needs very little energy to maintain, while the pipes have cool water running through them, which reduces energy usage by 70%. On the roof, there are cylindrical tubes (void formers) which lock air inside the structure, as well as solar panels which provide the winery with all the electricity it needs.

The label of every bottle of Glenelly wine has a 1783 stamp, which signifies the family's 250 years of involvement in the continues into the 21st century at Glenelly Estate in South Africa. The family's ancestor, Elie Miailhe, was granted the title of "Royal Wine Broker" in 1783, with May de Lencquesaing (neé Miailhe) continuing this tradition together with her grandchildren, Nicolas and Maxime Bureau.

This red wine is from Glenelly's Glass Collection range, which celebrates May's lifelong passion for the art of glassmaking. It is crafted using 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was selected from various parcels grown on the slopes of Glenelly. The grapes were harvested and brought into the winery where they were lightly crushed into stainless steel tanks. It was wild fermented using natural ambient yeast with a mixture of rack-and-returns and open pump-overs, followed by post-fermentation skin contact which lasted for 2 to 3 weeks, and then undergoing a gentle press. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels and was racked, on average, every 4 months, and then matured in oak for 12 months.

The growing season began with an exceptionally warm and dry spring, which resulted in good and even bud burst, while temperatures were in-line with historical averages during flowering and berry set period, with significantly fewer fluctuations. Good rainfall towards the end of October replenished the dry soil profile, which resulted in stress-free flowering and berry set. Moderate climatic conditions during the growing season, as well as seasonal rainfall just before harvest, laid the foundation for a good harvest that produced grapes of excellent quality. Effective canopy management and helped promote ripening, and good levels of acidity and sugar. The sustained, moderate temperatures until the end of March led to effective plant functioning and full maturity, which resulted in great concentration, structure, and desired alcohol levels. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GLENELLY GLASS COLLECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13316) (XD) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has a lovely, medium-high intensity nose that is fresh, balanced, and complex with red & black fruits, currant, cassis, blackberry, grilled herbs, mint, toasty oak spice, and savoury earth aromas. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has delicious aroma replays joined by some ripe plummy notes and smoke adding further complexity on the flavour profile. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the supple, well-structured tannins have a slightly chalky textured grip that will soften with time. Nicely balanced throughout with blackberry, savoury earth, and smoky notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. A highly recommended buy to enjoy to the end of the decade. Score: 90+ pts

A few bottles of Glenelly's flagship Lady May is available at the LCBO, while the rest of their portfolio can be ordered (while also collecting Air Miles) through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Trius Showcase Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara that was featured in the piece on Local Talent in the recent July 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It will be available at the LCBO once the strike ends, but can be ordered directly today from the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake or via The Wine Shop.

It is produced by Trius Winery, a Canadian wine industry game changer that was established by Hillebrand Estates in 1979. Initially, the Trius brand at Hillebrand only consisted of one wine - the Trius Red - a wine that received international acclaim after it was recognized as the Best Red Wine in the World in 1991. This recognition marked an important step in the Canadian wine industry as it meant that Canadian wines could stand on their own against wines from other top wine-producing regions.

While the Trius Red continues to be recognized as one of Canada's most iconic wines, the portfolio has grown to include several other ranges and many top wines, including sparkling wines, white wines, and Icewine. In 2007, Hillebrand was acquired by Andrew Peller Limited, and in 2012, the Hillebrand Winery property was renovated and born as Trius Winery to become one of Niagara-on-the-Lake's top wine destinations.

With renowned Winemaker Craig MacDonald leading the winemaking team, Trius has evolved to become a world-class winery with roots, while also noting that the heart and soul of all Trius wines come from the one-of-a-kind vineyards where they grow their grapes. Major factors that lead to high-quality grapes include the sun-soaked shale that the vines sink their roots into, as well as convection currents from Lake Ontario that cool down the hot, summer nights. At Trius, they celebrate the connection between the land and their wines, and it is at the heart of everything in creating iconic Canadian wines for everyone to enjoy.

This particular white wine is from Trius' Showcase range of wines which are crafted using the best hand-selected fruit from the best vineyards, and often from a single vineyard and a single barrel. Showcase wines showcase the character of the soil and the distinct personality of the individual vineyard. These collectible, age-worthy wines are crafted in an unrushed approach with innovative winemaking techniques in very limited quantities, which show Trius' exemplary passion for making great wines that is on full display in every Trius Showcase bottle of wine.

This beautiful white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in the Watching Tree Vineyard situated in the VQA Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation of Niagara. Lincoln Lakeshore has long, gentle slopes which are highly influenced by Lake Ontario, a long temperate growing season, and numerous seasonal streams. The lake effect makes Lincoln Lakeshore ideal for growing white wine varieties that can fully mature on the vine over a long period, producing wines with great intensity, complexity, structure, and elegance. The Watching Tree Vineyard is named after the lone tree that stands tall alongside the vineyard, like a protector watching over the vines. This vineyard was once an ancient riverbed and was planted in 1989 with clone 95 and 96 Chardonnay vines on stony, pebbly soil. To craft this Chardonnay, the grapes were hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed. The juice was cold settled in tank, then sent directly to barrel for wild yeast fermentation. The wine was aged "sur lie" for 10 months in 225L French oak barriques, 20% new.

The 2020 growing season delivered near-perfect growing conditions, one of the best ever by all accounts, with white wine varieties having surprisingly great acidity. From this exceptional vintage, let's see how this 2020 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TRIUS SHOWCASE WILD FERMENT CHARDONNAY 2020 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#199273) (XD) - $38.00
Lovely, perfumed, and highly aromatic nose of ripe apple, lemon citrus, tropical fruit, smoky oak, and buttery aromas with touches of spice, coffee, roasted nuts, and flinty mineral adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is gently spicy with lemon citrus, ripe apple, toasty oak spice, butter, and nutty oak flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, along with lovely textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Refined and elegant with flinty mineral and toasty notes lingering on the dry finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Trius Winery can be purchased directly from the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, at The Wine Shop locations across Ontario, or LCBO outlets once they re-open.

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Seppeltsfield EC405 Barossa Shiraz/Mataro 2020 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent blend of Shiraz and Mataro from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It arrived as a brand-new wine at the LCBO last month in the March 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive, with many bottles now available both in-store and online.

It is produced by Seppeltsfield Wines, an iconic winery located on the Western Ridge of the Barossa Valley. With a rich history, Seppeltsfield combines over 420 acres of ancient vineyards, gardens, and heritage-listed architecture to handcraft quality wines and unique offerings. The Seppeltsfield estate is surrounded by a small settlement, also named Seppeltsfield, and is among the most western townships in the Barossa Valley. The picturesque region is a patchwork of vineyards on gently rolling hills, contrasted by open fields of cereal crops. The estate is a landmark of South Australia where travellers of all origins were warmly welcomed throughout the 19th and 20th centuries due to the generous hospitality of the Seppelt family. Today, Seppeltsfield proudly continues the Seppelt family vision of the "village", ensuring that the history, heritage, and provenance of this remarkable estate is shared with many.

Seppeltsfield was established in the Barossa Valley by Joseph and Johanna Seppelt, just 15 years after the European settlement of South Australia. In 1851, Joseph Seppelt, an emigrant from Silesia, purchased 158 acres of land with the original intention of farming tobacco, with later generations of the Seppelt family concentrating their efforts on grape growing and winemaking. Seppeltsfield flourished into the 20th century, along with the Seppelt family's expanding interest in the liquor industry. The Seppelt family is regarded as one of Australia's most successful wine dynasties as it remained within the family until 1985.

In 2007, Seppeltsfield returned to private ownership, and is now under the custodianship of proprietor Warren Randall. Mr. Randall is a qualified viticulturist and winemaker who had previously worked for the Seppelt family in the 1980s, and is supported by proud investors. The estate is viewed by Warren as a custodianship of the Seppelt family legacy. In 2010, the 1888 Gravity Cellar was recommissioned and has revitalized the estate's prowess with still wines as all super premium red Barossa varietals are once again passing though the Gravity Cellar. Originally completed in 1888, the visionary design of the Gravity Cellar was borne out of engineering logic by Oscar Benno Seppelt, son of Joseph and Johanna. The Gravity Cellar uses a gravity-fed, minimal handling approach to winemaking, which is now a coveted modern-day winemaking principle, and results in wines with heightened aromatics and purity of fruit, aided by the gentle extraction of colour, flavour, and tannin. As part of Randall Wine Group, Seppeltsfield is also committed and compliant with Freshcare Australian Wine Industry Standard of Sustainable Practice – Winery Standard and the Sustainable Winegrowing Australia programs.

This red wine is a handcrafted blend of Shiraz (aka Syrah) and Mataro (aka Mourvèdre or Monastrell), a wine that celebrates the winemaking art of assemblage (bench blending) to achieve a final blended wine that is greater than the sum of its parts. The "EC" (East Cellar) part of the name of this wine goes back to the earliest red varietal blends that were first released by Seppeltsfield's founding family in the 1960s. While the composition of each wine varied with each vintage, the East Cellar code was a unique reference to where the wines were rested and matured in oak barrels prior to release.

The EC405 borrows the legacy of earlier EC bottlings, and brings together the traditional blend of Shiraz and Mataro. This 2020 vintage of the EC405 is a blend of 66% Shiraz and 34% Mataro. The Shiraz is made up of a parcel grown on Seppeltsfield's "V-Block" Vineyard in the western part of the valley and a parcel grown on Seppeltsfield's "Chooks Block" in the southern part of the valley, while the Mataro was sourced from a grower vineyard on the western ridge. The grapes used to craft the EC405 were fermented at their 1888 Gravity Cellar, which is built into the hillside on a series of terraces. Gravity guides the flow of the fruit through the winery, delivering gentle extraction of colour, flavour, and tannins. Each vineyard parcel was kept separate throughout the entire process, including maturation in seasoned French oak hogsheads. Bench blend trials were then conducted by the Seppeltsfield winemaking team, prior to assemblage and bottling.

While the 2020 growing season proved to be yet another challenging vintage, which led to reduced yields, and in turn, reducing supply, the quality of what was produced is high. Let's see how this 2020 Barossa Shiraz/Mataro is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SEPPELTSFIELD EC405 BAROSSA SHIRAZ/MATARO 2020 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#33561) (XD) - $33.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 66% Shiraz and 34% Mataro has an elegant, fragrant, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of ripe, sweet black and purple fruits, blackberry, black cherry, and potpourri aromas with accents of savoury earth, iron, and minty herbs. It's medium-full to full-bodied with well-structured, rustic tannins and black-purple fruited and savoury flavours of blackberry, black cherry, sweet cassis, peppery spice, and graphite with persistent savoury mineral and cocoa characters. Acids are crisp and juicy. Some spice notes on the mid-palate taper to savoury graphite and mineral flavours on the long, grippy finish, with excellent length. Enjoy now to 2040. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Small quantities of other Seppeltsfield Wines are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Mountadam Five-Fifty Chardonnay 2020 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious Eden Valley Chardonnay from Australia that arrived at the LCBO earlier this year as part of the January 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Mountadam Vineyards, a winery that was established in 1972 by the late David Wynn. David was one of the most significant contributors to the Australian Wine Industry as he was the first to recognize the potential of a cool, elevated site to produce Australian wines of great elegance and structure. Wynn searched across Australia for a vineyard site that met his expectations and eventually settled in an area high above the township of Eden Valley, within a sub-region that was formally recognized in 2001 as High Eden. The area of High Eden is oval-shaped and covers 40 square kilometres, and is situated in the highest areas of the Eden Valley. David named his first vineyard after his son, Adam, who became the company's winemaker in 1984.

Mountadam Vineyards' logo was created when David Wynn brought his artist friend Tate Adams to the property, so he could get inspiration to come up with a design for the wine label. As they were walking on the property, two eagles were circling above and Wynn told Adams that they were nesting in a tree on the property. Following this visit, Adams designed and made two engravings incorporating the eagle.

Today, Mountadam Vineyards is in the hands of David and Jenni Brown, who acquired the winery and 80 hectares of vineyards from LMVH in 2005. In 2015, the Brown's purchased the Treasury Wine Estates High Eden vineyard, which included 67 hectares of vines, and allowed them to re-assemble the Mountadam property of over 1,000 hectares. The Brown's share David Wynn's vision for sustainability and have invested significantly in redeveloping the winery and vineyards with items such as open fermenters, filtration, solar power, and water treatment. The Brown family is keen on continuing Wynn's vision to produce wines of elegance and structure, while also focusing on sustainable, low input viticulture that will guarantee the success of the vineyards and farm into the future.

This white wine is part of Mountadam's Five-Fifty range, which is named after the Estate's altitude of 550 metres above sea level. While all Mountadam wines are sourced exclusively from their Estate, which has 147 hectares of vines, the wines in the Five-Fifty range are crafted to offer amazing quality for the price. This Chardonnay is crafted using Mountadam's original 1970s plantings, with 87% of the fruit from Blocks 22, 15, and 29 on the Estate's eastern side, and 13% from Block 57, which is situated on the western side. 60% of this wine was matured in French oak barriques for 1 year, with only 10% new, while the remaining 40% was tank fermented and aged in stainless steel.

In Eden Valley, the drought conditions during the growing season in 2020 resulted in very low yields. Although it was a challenging vintage, the warm conditions helped produce grapes of excellent quality, which resulted in wines of exceptional quality, particularly Chardonnay. Let's see how this 2020 Eden Valley Chardonnay from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MOUNTADAM FIVE-FIFTY CHARDONNAY 2020 - Eden Valley, South Australia (#22984) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap. The rich, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers buttery, vanilla, apple, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of butterscotch and oak spice. It's dry, medium+ bodied and quite spicy on the lively palate with buttery, apple/pear, lemon citrus, vanillin oak spice, and leesy mineral flavours. It is creamy, yet also has a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Acids are crisp and juicy. Buttery, apple, and citrus notes give way to leesy minerals on the lengthy finish. Chill and enjoy this recommended buy! Score: 88 pts

Small quantities of other Mountadam wines can be found at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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Kacaba Cabernet/Syrah 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Franc and Syrah blend that was locally and sustainably grown and crafted in Niagara and arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent March 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2019 Kacaba Cabernet Franc that I enjoyed last year, this red wine is also produced by Kacaba Vineyards & Winery, a premium, small-batch winery located on prime, winegrowing land on the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland, Ontario. The history of the winery begins in 1997 after the land was purchased by Michael Kacaba, a Bay St. lawyer in Toronto of Ukrainian descent and a Saskatchewan background. Although the land was slated for a subdivision, Mr. Kacaba had other visions and began the work to establish a vineyard and winery. Only two years later, in 1999, Kacaba had their first vintage and consistent success followed thereafter.

The choice of establishing the vineyard and winery on the Niagara Escarpment - the slope leading to the lake bed of the prehistoric lake that covered southern Ontario - has greatly contributed to Kacaba's success. This unique geographical area sets up a circulating air flow whereby cold air naturally moves down the Escarpment and over Lake Ontario, where it warms, rises, and returns to heat the Escarpment. This process helps extend the frost-free season through spring and fall, thereby extending the growing season, which allows grapes such as Syrah and Bordeaux varieties, such as Cabernet Franc, to develop phenolic maturity.

Today, while no longer owned by Michael Kacaba, the wines of Kacaba Vineyards & Winery are produced using only the finest grapes on the estate or from partner growers in surrounding vineyards. The philosophy at Kacaba is dependent on producing small quantities of wines by limiting the quantities they can handle such that they are able to manage all aspects of the winemaking process mainly by hand. By focusing on small-batch winemaking, Kacaba is able to produce wines of merit that are deep in colour, rich in aromas and character. Kacaba also strives to encourage sustainable agriculture on their land, as well as their partner growers.

This red wine is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Syrah, and due to the stellar growing season in the Niagara region, the Cabernet Franc was harvested in early November, while the Syrah was harvested in mid-October. Each varietal was picked separately at slightly different times and kept separate throughout the vinification process. The grapes were gently destemmed and fermented in stainless steel containers. After pressing, the wines were aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels for 17 months. In the spring of 2022, Winemaker Vadim Chelekhov tasted the various barrels of wine and selected the unique tasting casks that showed elegant tannins and overall balance. The chosen barrels were then blended, filtered, and bottled on May 17, 2022.

The 2020 growing season started off warmer than average and was mostly dry with only a few snow storms in January and February. The warm trend continued into March, but then slowed in April, which included a cold snap in the latter part of the month, and kept the vines dormant. The great growing season took off once spring arrived in May, followed by a dry and warm summer, which was followed by a cool, dry, and long fall season. With extensive crop thinning, leaf pulling, and constant vineyard monitoring, the Cabernet Franc grapes hung on to the vines into October and early November. From a vintage that has been deemed the vintage of the century in Niagara, let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Franc - Syrah blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KACABA CABERNET / SYRAH 2020 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#26424) (XD) - $24.95
A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Syrah, this has a rich, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers pleasing, ripe red & black fruit, currant, raspberry, oak spice, chocolate, and savoury earth aromas, plus hints of plum, meaty, and mineral notes. It's medium-bodied on the dry palate with delicious, tangy red & black fruits, currant, raspberry, savoury earth flavours, plus subtle oak spice, black pepper, and meaty notes add further character. It has fresh, lemony acidity, while the smooth, supple, and refined tannins are well-managed. There's a touch of chalky grip on the back palate. Tangy with savoury earth and mineral notes linger on the long, fresh finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90 pts

Some of the fine wines by Kacaba Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the full range is available direct from winery in Niagara.

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Calcu Tiny Blocks Gran Reserva Cabernet Franc 2020 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, sustainable and vegan-friendly Cabernet Franc from Chile. It is brand new to the LCBO and arrived on shelves earlier this month as part of the feature on wines from Chile in the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on February 3rd.

It is produced by Calcu Vineyards, a winery project that was established in 2003 by the Hurtado family. With over a century's worth of experience making quality wines in the Colchagua Valley, the Hurtado family found a unique place in Marchigüe, within the Colchagua Valley in central Chile, that is marked by hills of granite stone. The hills are the inspiration for the name Calcu Vineyards - "CAL: Hill" and "CUrá: Stone" - and means Hills of Stone.

The granite hills with clay seams, combined with the proximity of the vineyard to the sea at just 26 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean, as well as the altitude of the vineyard with different orientations of the slopes allows for a perfect blend that reflects the personality of the vineyard. By combining all of these features, it enables each Calcu wine to showcase the brand's characteristic freshness, structure, verve, and depth.

The core values at Calcu Vineyards are excellence, perseverance, and honesty. While sustainability is also one of the four essential values of the Hurtado family, whereby caring for the environment, workers, and the local community is key, Calcu Vineyards was created with the ambition of redefining the Colchagua Valley with world-class, handcrafted wines. With the assistance of winemaking advisor, Xavier Choné, the Hurtado family designed each of the 166 micro-terroirs using a high-precision manual process that followed the orientation of the slopes and natural clay seams that are present on the site. This resulted in a vineyard architecture of small blocks, with many less than 1 hectare in size, with varying slopes and irregular shapes. The nature of these blocks allows each variety to find the ideal place within the vineyard, where it can express its maximum potential. One of the most important aspects of the site is the gentle granitic slopes on the coastal hills. The soil on these slopes contains important seams of clay, which are preserved and maintained as they contribute structure, texture, and depth to the resulting wines.

To craft this red wine, the grapes were manually harvested and double sorted from vineyards situated at their Marchigüe Estate vineyard, 25 km from the Pacific Ocean. The vineyard is planted on the gentle hills of the coastal hills, where the soft sea breeze moderates the temperatures and allows the grapes to develop excellent concentration and fresh, aromatic fruit. The soil in this vineyard is mainly granitic with a significant clay content, characters that positively influence concentration and persistent aromas. The tiny blocks selected for this Cabernet Franc (which also includes splashes of Petit Verdot and Carménère) are planted in the highest sectors of soil with a high presence of quartz, which provides a fantastic combination of fresh fruit, structure, and elegance. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks at temperatures between 20ºC and 24ºC, and underwent 18 days of maceration time with its skins. After completing malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

The 2020 growing season at Calcu was marked by a warm and dry climate. This challenged the team at Calcu because they needed to be more alert than ever in identifying the opportune time for harvest in order to maintain the elegance and natural balance that characterizes the wines from this terroir. The resulting wines from the high quality 2020 vintage have high concentration, excellent colour intensity and complexity, and very good ageing capability. Let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Franc from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CALCU TINY BLOCKS GRAN RESERVA CABERNET FRANC 2020 - Sustainable, Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#35677) (XD) - $14.95
This blend of 95% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Carménère has a lovely, lifted, medium-high intensity nose of wet earth, mineral, dark fruited (blackberry, black cherry), minty herb, and sweet tobacco aromas. On the dry, ripe, medium+ bodied palate it has lovely, elegant, and balanced aroma replays of dark fruit, mineral, savoury wet earth, blackberry, black cherry, and tobacco flavours with some spicy and herbal notes. It is well-structured with very good acidity and grippy, structured, and mouth puckering tannins. Minerally with dark fruit and tobacco notes linger on the long, crisp, and juicy finish. Enjoyable now, but will reward with 2-3 years in the cellar. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

While only a limited number of the excellent 2018 Calcu Winemaker's Selection Blend is available on clearance at the LCBO, all wines in the Calcu Vineyards portfolio can be ordered through Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits.

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Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Amarone della Valpolicella that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the January 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cantine Bertani, an Italian winery situated in the heart of Veneto with a long and storied history that began in the mid-19th century. It was established in Valpantena in 1857 by the Bertani brothers - Gaetano and Giovan Battista - after Gaetano returned from Burgundy where he learned from his friend and well-known winemaker Jules Guyot about the most modern techniques in viticulture and winemaking.

In 1860, inspired by the modern French winemaking techniques, Bertani introduced a revolutionary dry style of wine at a time when the sweet Recioto was the everyday wine in Valpolicella, and a decade later Bertani was awarded internationally for its premium quality wines and innovative winemaking techniques. In 1889, the Veronese Academy of Agriculture awarded a gold medal to Bertani for its exceptional wines, while in the same year a Symposium was held by a group of specialists to discuss the Secco-Bertani winemaking process to create dry table wines. The early years of the 20th century had Bertani linked to royalty, while 1958 marked a turning point as Bertani produced their first Amarone della Valpolicella Classico using the natural appassimento method.

The core values at Bertani are based on respect, coherence, and patience. These values are the foundation of their 150-year history - respect for their own territory, stylistic coherence that has never flirted with easy production options, and the patience required to produce an iconic wine like Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. At Bertani, perpetuating a style has never sufficed. As such, they are always using innovation as respect for tradition - meaning that they respect what has been done and, at the same time, re-evaluating it every day in order to assure quality worthy of their potential and reputation. Further developments over the years, including a focus on territory, led to the introduction of single vineyard Amarone della Valpolicella wines.

A territory only has value if one is able to fully express its full potential. The Veronese zone is a varied territory with a long oenological tradition that is known as one of the most prestigious wine regions in Italy. Historically, Bertani has always believed in the individual territories of the Veronese zone, from Valpolicella Classico to Valpantena, from Soave to Lugana, and used an approach that is respectful to both the vineyard and the cellar to develop a style that has been rethought over the years, thus staying up-to-date and modern, without ever compromising.

This Amarone is from Bertani's Territory range of wines. It is crafted with 80% Corvina Veronese and 20% Rondinella, with the fruit grown in the Valpantena territory, which is located in the northeast of Verona. Valpantena is a pre-alpine valley at the heart of the Monti Lessini mountain range and has been known since ancient times for its fertile soil, as well as being rich in iron and calcareous marl. The name Valpantena means "Valley of the Gods", and is derived from the pantheon built at the entrance of the valley. The wine comes from vineyards that feature marl-limestone soil on the eastern slope of the valley and clay-limestone soil on the western slope. The vines average 15 to 20 years old and were trained using the Guyot and Pergola systems. To craft this wine, the grapes were dried in drying rooms at the winery located in Grezzana. It was fermented with a long maceration time on the skins to extract fruit notes, followed by ageing in a combination of 30, 54, and 75 hectolitre barrels for 24 months, and underwent further maturation in bottle for 6 months.

The 2020 growing season was a warm vintage that produced bright fruit and acidity, along with excellent concentration and elegant tannins. Let's see how this 2020 Amarone della Valpolicella is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BERTANI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA VALPANTENA 2020 - DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#568741) (D) - $57.95
Blend of 80% Corvina Veronese and 20% Rondinella. The nose takes some coaxing to reveal itself at this stage with intriguing red & black cherry, blackberry, and spice aromas followed by hints of cocoa, cinnamon, tobacco leaf, and floral. It is medium-full to full-bodied on the dry, rich, and warming palate with lovely and complex black cherry, savoury spice, cinnamon, blackberry, floral, plum, oak spice, tobacco leaf flavours. Acids are crisp, juicy and succulent, while the smooth, refined, and well-structured tannins have a touch of grip. Cherry notes taper to minerals on the long, crisp finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy now or over the next 15+ years. Score: 93 pts

Only small quantities of other fine wines by Bertani are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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