Domaine Girard Le Fleuron de La Rebourgère Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2022 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine that is made with the Melon de Bourgogne grape varietal. It arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the April 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Girard, a small family estate situated in the heart of the Muscadet area, between the Sèvre & Maine Rivers. It was established by the Girard family during the 1940s in Rebourgère, a hamlet of Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, in the heart of the region of Nantes. As the only son of Marcel and Gabrielle Girard, Gaston had to work on the family farm at an early age. He also helped his mother, a brave and ambitious woman with a strong character, as she had just lost her husband who came from the war with illness. Like most farms at the time, the Girard family practiced mixed farming with some cattle, cereal crops, and vines.

Everything changed in 1961, after Gaston married Georgette, a young woman from the nearby village of La Haie-Fouassière. Together, they worked to grow the farm, giving up mixed farming and cattle to focus on grapevines. In the 1970s, they developed direct-selling and were pioneers of this type of marketing. The entire family was involved in the business, while Gaston focused on the winemaking, while the rest of the family, including son Patrick, bottled, labelled, and wrapped the product. At the end of the week, the whole family would cross Brittany, Normandy, and other regions of Nantes to deliver their wines to cafés, restaurants, and private clients by car and trailer, and soon upgraded by a Citroën "H" van.

Patrick Girard is the third generation of the family to farm the land. From his first steps, he followed his father into the vines. After completing his studies in winemaking, Patrick joined his father to work on the farm in the late-1980s, and after a few years working with his parents, Patrick took over ownership of the estate in 1991 when Gaston retired. Perhaps it was a signal that in April 1991 the vines froze, and the crop was annihilated, just a month before his marriage to Martine in May. Patrick and Martine overcame these difficulties with bravery and ambition, and after years of hard work, with experience and knowledge acquired from former generations, the third generation of the Girard family revived the vineyard. Over the years, they also made numerous improvements using modern techniques both in the vineyard and in the wine cellar.

Today, the motto of the Girard family is the quality of the work, the precision, and the flawless quality of the wines, which have garnered numerous awards over the years. Domaine Girard has 93 acres of vines in reasoned culture, with 60% of the crop sold directly, and a range of diversified wines. Patrick works in the vineyard, is the winemaker, and also takes care of commercialization. Martine works in the wine cellar, while also preparing orders and dealing with administrative and accounting work. Patrick is also now joined by his son, Guillaume, the 4th generation of the Girard family, to farm these lands. After completing his studies in winemaking and marketing, Guillaume joined his parents at the estate in 2013 and, like his father, combines tradition and modernity.

Crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne, the grapes for this white wine are from 40+ year-old vines that were planted on parcels of week-to-moderate slopes, on silty, clayey and shallow soils (less than 30 cm), and with a sub-soil made up of schist and gneiss. The grapes were mechanically harvested, and upon arriving at the winery they were direct-pressed and fermented in underground, thermo-regulated vats. The wine was left on its lees for 9 to 10 months, with one or two bâtonnages (stirring the settled lees back into the wine) to increase richness and texture.

The growing season in the Loire Valley in 2022 started with a dry and relatively cool winter. There were some April frosts, but there was little damage as they occurred prior to budburst, even though budburst and flowering were early compared to normal. Temperatures warmed up in late-spring, while June saw some fortunate rain just before July's high temperatures set in and remained throughout the summer growing season, which helped keep the grapes from both rotting and disease, as well as allowing the grapes to reach phenolic ripeness. Harvest was unsurprisingly early, delivering great results with relatively high yields. The fruit was rich and ripe at harvest, while retaining acidity and aromatics. Overall, it was a very good-to-excellent vintage. Let's see how this 2022 Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine from the Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE GIRARD LE FLEURON DE LA REBOURGÈRE MUSCADET-SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#557207) (XD) - $16.95
Crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne, this has clean, fresh, and elegant aromatics of medium-high intensity rising out of the glass with ripe lemon-lime citrus, some yeasty-leesy minerality, white peach, oyster shell, and herbal aromas. It has very good weight and concentration on the medium+ to medium-full bodied, dry, and lightly honeyed palate with delicious and complex citrusy, white peach, apple-pear, spice, and saline mineral flavours. It has nicely balanced, juicy acidity and a very finely textured mouthfeel. Apple and pear notes give way to leesy and oyster shell minerals on the long, crisp, and well-balanced finish. Enjoy over the next 4-5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Girard can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO Inc.