Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2018 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Brunello di Montalcino that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the September 7, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Fattoria dei Barbi, a winery owned by the Colombini family, one of Tuscany's oldest noble families. The Cinelli Colombini family has owned land in Montalcino since 1352, and the Fattoria dei Barbi since the end of the 18th century.

Historically, the Colombini family has a long history in Siena as one of the noble families. They have been active in the Sienese government since the year 1000, with the first member quoted in the chronicles as Tignoso Colombino. His children were named Colombini, and this has been the family's name ever since. Tignoso lived in a castle in the village of Uopini, just outside Siena, a castle which became a hospital in the Middle Ages and is still in existence today. In 1200, the family was allowed to have a Coat of Arms with four little doves painted on a blue field, a version of which adorns the labels of Fattoria dei Barbi wines.

In the 14th century, the family changed from being wool merchants to banking, with their headquarters in Siena and various branches across Italy and Marseille. In 1352, the Colombini family acquired a share of the Castle of San Giovanni d'Asso and the Castle of Poggio alle Mura, and established the arrival of the Colombini family in Montalcino for the first time. During this century, Giovanni Colombini decided to become a monk and donated all his materialistic possessions to the Church. Over the years, there were many members of the Colombini family, some were saints, while others were womanizers, hedonists, and down right weird (like most families?).

After decades of strictness and austerity, in the 16th century, the family decided to change politically and support the Florentines. The powerful Cosimo dei Medici restored their fortunes and properties. Cosimo, Lucrezio, Ascanio and Giovanni Colombini were among the one hundred Sienese citizens chosen to run the government of the city, with Cosimo becoming Podestà (Mayor) of Montalcino in 1560.

At the beginning of the 19th century, the family lived in Carmignano, near Lucca, while maintaining a strong relationship with Siena. The Bishop of Lucca moved to Montalcino in order to manage his small agricultural properties there, and following him there was Paolo Colombini, a law scholar, who decided to become a Notary. This lucky choice by Paolo started a new chapter in the family history, which lasts to this day. Pio Colombini, son of Paolo, produced the first bottles of Brunello, and also married Elina Padelletti, who is from an ancient and noble family of Montalcino. This marriage increased the family's possessions, encompassing Villa Podernovi, where the cellar and laboratories are located today. Born in 1906, Giovanni Colombini, the son of Pio and Elina, was an innovator and pioneer of modern viticulture, and instrumental in the standing of Fattoria dei Barbi on the global stage. Upon Giovanni's death in 1976, the Fattoria was managed by his daughter, Francesca, and then his nephew, Stefano. Both Francesca and Stefano have helped develop and expand Fattoria dei Barbi into what it is today - a wine estate known for producing some of the finest Brunello di Montalcino that reflect the unique terroir of Montalcino.

Today, Fattoria dei Barbi extends over 306 hectares in Montalcino and Scansano. The property is run by Stefano Cinelli Colombini, an heir of the ancient Sienese line that has been present in Montalcino since 1352. The cellar has over 300 wooden barrels and thousands of bottles laid down for ageing, including bottles from 1870 to the present day, which displays the continuity of Fattoria dei Barbi that makes it unique in Italy. The Fattoria has always been a careful custodian of tradition, while also embracing innovation and a pioneer in every aspect of winemaking. Fattoria dei Barbi can stake its claim to a number of firsts in Montalcino, including exporting the first bottled wine to France in 1817, and creating the first Super Tuscan in 1969. The estate was also a pioneer in the use of organic fertilizers in the 1960s, while also creating the first "artificial nose" to analyze wines in the 1990s. In 2000, Barbi was one of the first to use carbon dioxide for cold fermentation of red wines. The philosophy at Fattoria dei Barbi has always been to know and study the most innovative technologies and combine them with the best traditions to improve everything they produce, without ever changing its distinguishing characteristics.

First produced in 1892, this red wine is crafted with 100% Sangiovese that was grown on the property of Fattoria dei Barbi, in the heart of the hill of Montalcino. The vines were planted on a south-facing vineyard between 1975 and 2017, on marl and alberese limestone soil at an altitude between 300 and 500 metres above sea level. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes underwent a cold pre-fermentative maceration at a temperature of 16°C in an environment protected by CO², a process which increases the extraction of polyphenols and aroma compounds. The grapes then underwent a 16 to 17-day alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature of 27°-28°C. After racking and undergoing malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged in small-to-medium size oak barrels for the first few months, followed by further ageing in larger oak barrels for a total of two years, and then matured in bottle for at least four months prior to release.

The 2018 vintage can be described as cool and classic, producing wines with excellent balance and more immediate drinkability. The season began with a mild January and a colder February with northern winds, along with both months experiencing abundant rain and occasional snow, which helped with water supply. Spring was still very rainy and wet, with temperatures higher than average, while summer was dryer and very hot during the second half of August. At the beginning of September there were a few thunderstorms, which refreshed the temperature and helped the grapes reach a good and balanced maturation, while harvest took place over twelve days during the second half of the month. Overall, it is a variable vintage with mixed results that puts the winemaking style on display. The wines from this vintage tend to be mid-weighted with a slender structure for near to midterm ageing. Let's see how this 2018 Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FATTORIA DEI BARBI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#372938) (XD) - $69.95
100% Sangiovese. The fragrant, slightly perfumed, and medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers attractive aromas of ripe red cherry, strawberry, rose floral, underbrush, herbs, and savoury earth with touches of stony mineral and citrus. On the medium-full to full-bodied palate it is dry with very good structure and lovely dried red cherry, rose floral, savoury scorched earth, mineral, sweet spice flavours, plus touches of tangy orange citrus adding further interest and complexity. It has very good, food-friendly and structured acidity, while the youthful, structured, and chalky textured tannins are integrating nicely. Well-balanced throughout with red cherry and floral notes giving way to savoury earth and minerals on the long, crisp finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy that is enjoyable now, but will reward cellaring and drink well into the mid-to-late 2030s. Score: 93 pts

Other excellent wines by Fattoria dei Barbi can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.