Evans & Tate Hullabaloo Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Margaret River) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon that is a brand new arrival at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the feature story on wines from Australia in the February 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Evans & Tate, a winery whose history began when John Evans & John Tate first planted vines in Swan Valley, just north of Perth. Three years later, in 1974, Evans & Tate was established when the two friends and business partners purchased land and planted a vineyard in Wilyabrup, in the heart of Margaret River, three hours south of Perth in Western Australia. John Evans was a winemaker and contributed his technical expertise, while John Tate was an entrepreneur and wine enthusiast who was involved in viticulture and business development. Together, Evans & Tate played a pioneering role in establishing Margaret River as a world-class wine region.

Evans & Tate has changed hands a couple of times and joined Fogarty Wine Group in 2012. Today, the winemaking philosophy at Evans & Tate begins with accessing high-quality fruit and oak, as well as using state-of-the-art winemaking equipment. The winemaking team is led by Senior Winemaker Matt Byrne, who has been at the helm of Evans & Tate winemaking since 2001, and Winemaker Feleasha Prendergast, and together they continuously strive to craft elegant wines which exhibit distinct regional characteristics and intense purity of fruit. Evans & Tate continues to be based in the Margaret River wine region - one of the world's most isolated and elite wine regions. Situated adjacent to the Indian Ocean, the Margaret River wine region boasts optimal conditions for viticulture due to its proximity to the ocean, soil consistency, and perfect seasonal temperatures. The region is situated at an elevation of 295 feet above sea level and features a high mean January (peak summer) temperature of 20.2°C, and a low mean annual temperature of 7.6°C, which translates to a pleasant year-around Mediterranean climate that is warm and dry during summer with cooling afternoon breezes, and a mild winter. The soil in the Margaret River wine region is loamy sand and gravel, which was formed directly from underlying granite and gneissic rock.

With many lines of wines at various price points in the Evans & Tate portfolio, this red wine is from their Hullabaloo range, which blows the trumpet for the renowned wine region of Margaret River and offers remarkable fruit purity and intensity, while also celebrating the region's distinct flavours.

The 2018 vintage in Margaret River is considered to be one of the best and most classically styled vintages ever recorded in the region and across Western Australia. Rain was heavy rain in winter, followed by below average rain in spring. Growing conditions were perfect during the mild and dry summer from December to late-February, with only five days above 30°C, while slightly cooler weather resulted in wines with high acidity and brightness. It was an easy vintage that allowed producers ample time to bring the grapes to optimal ripeness prior to harvesting. From an epic vintage, let's see how this 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EVANS & TATE HULLABALOO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#41312) (XD) - $19.95
100% Cabernet Sauvignon and enclosed by screw cap. Fresh and open, the medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers cool, minty, black cherry, dark currant, and cassis aromas alongside gentle oak spice, and savoury earth notes. It's full-bodied and dry, with ripe cassis, plum, dark currant, black cherry, savoury earth, and cedary oak spice flavours flecked with minty herbs in a warming profile. It has crisp and juicy acidity, while the medium-firm and textured tannins are well-structured. Savoury earth and minty herb notes with touches of cedary oak linger on the long, chalky textured finish. This recommended buy will go great with lamb, your favourite red meat, or other protein. Score: 89 pts

Very limited quantities of one other Evans & Tate wine is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2018 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Brunello di Montalcino that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the September 7, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Fattoria dei Barbi, a winery owned by the Colombini family, one of Tuscany's oldest noble families. The Cinelli Colombini family has owned land in Montalcino since 1352, and the Fattoria dei Barbi since the end of the 18th century.

Historically, the Colombini family has a long history in Siena as one of the noble families. They have been active in the Sienese government since the year 1000, with the first member quoted in the chronicles as Tignoso Colombino. His children were named Colombini, and this has been the family's name ever since. Tignoso lived in a castle in the village of Uopini, just outside Siena, a castle which became a hospital in the Middle Ages and is still in existence today. In 1200, the family was allowed to have a Coat of Arms with four little doves painted on a blue field, a version of which adorns the labels of Fattoria dei Barbi wines.

In the 14th century, the family changed from being wool merchants to banking, with their headquarters in Siena and various branches across Italy and Marseille. In 1352, the Colombini family acquired a share of the Castle of San Giovanni d'Asso and the Castle of Poggio alle Mura, and established the arrival of the Colombini family in Montalcino for the first time. During this century, Giovanni Colombini decided to become a monk and donated all his materialistic possessions to the Church. Over the years, there were many members of the Colombini family, some were saints, while others were womanizers, hedonists, and down right weird (like most families?).

After decades of strictness and austerity, in the 16th century, the family decided to change politically and support the Florentines. The powerful Cosimo dei Medici restored their fortunes and properties. Cosimo, Lucrezio, Ascanio and Giovanni Colombini were among the one hundred Sienese citizens chosen to run the government of the city, with Cosimo becoming Podestà (Mayor) of Montalcino in 1560.

At the beginning of the 19th century, the family lived in Carmignano, near Lucca, while maintaining a strong relationship with Siena. The Bishop of Lucca moved to Montalcino in order to manage his small agricultural properties there, and following him there was Paolo Colombini, a law scholar, who decided to become a Notary. This lucky choice by Paolo started a new chapter in the family history, which lasts to this day. Pio Colombini, son of Paolo, produced the first bottles of Brunello, and also married Elina Padelletti, who is from an ancient and noble family of Montalcino. This marriage increased the family's possessions, encompassing Villa Podernovi, where the cellar and laboratories are located today. Born in 1906, Giovanni Colombini, the son of Pio and Elina, was an innovator and pioneer of modern viticulture, and instrumental in the standing of Fattoria dei Barbi on the global stage. Upon Giovanni's death in 1976, the Fattoria was managed by his daughter, Francesca, and then his nephew, Stefano. Both Francesca and Stefano have helped develop and expand Fattoria dei Barbi into what it is today - a wine estate known for producing some of the finest Brunello di Montalcino that reflect the unique terroir of Montalcino.

Today, Fattoria dei Barbi extends over 306 hectares in Montalcino and Scansano. The property is run by Stefano Cinelli Colombini, an heir of the ancient Sienese line that has been present in Montalcino since 1352. The cellar has over 300 wooden barrels and thousands of bottles laid down for ageing, including bottles from 1870 to the present day, which displays the continuity of Fattoria dei Barbi that makes it unique in Italy. The Fattoria has always been a careful custodian of tradition, while also embracing innovation and a pioneer in every aspect of winemaking. Fattoria dei Barbi can stake its claim to a number of firsts in Montalcino, including exporting the first bottled wine to France in 1817, and creating the first Super Tuscan in 1969. The estate was also a pioneer in the use of organic fertilizers in the 1960s, while also creating the first "artificial nose" to analyze wines in the 1990s. In 2000, Barbi was one of the first to use carbon dioxide for cold fermentation of red wines. The philosophy at Fattoria dei Barbi has always been to know and study the most innovative technologies and combine them with the best traditions to improve everything they produce, without ever changing its distinguishing characteristics.

First produced in 1892, this red wine is crafted with 100% Sangiovese that was grown on the property of Fattoria dei Barbi, in the heart of the hill of Montalcino. The vines were planted on a south-facing vineyard between 1975 and 2017, on marl and alberese limestone soil at an altitude between 300 and 500 metres above sea level. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes underwent a cold pre-fermentative maceration at a temperature of 16°C in an environment protected by CO², a process which increases the extraction of polyphenols and aroma compounds. The grapes then underwent a 16 to 17-day alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature of 27°-28°C. After racking and undergoing malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged in small-to-medium size oak barrels for the first few months, followed by further ageing in larger oak barrels for a total of two years, and then matured in bottle for at least four months prior to release.

The 2018 vintage can be described as cool and classic, producing wines with excellent balance and more immediate drinkability. The season began with a mild January and a colder February with northern winds, along with both months experiencing abundant rain and occasional snow, which helped with water supply. Spring was still very rainy and wet, with temperatures higher than average, while summer was dryer and very hot during the second half of August. At the beginning of September there were a few thunderstorms, which refreshed the temperature and helped the grapes reach a good and balanced maturation, while harvest took place over twelve days during the second half of the month. Overall, it is a variable vintage with mixed results that puts the winemaking style on display. The wines from this vintage tend to be mid-weighted with a slender structure for near to midterm ageing. Let's see how this 2018 Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FATTORIA DEI BARBI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#372938) (XD) - $69.95
100% Sangiovese. The fragrant, slightly perfumed, and medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers attractive aromas of ripe red cherry, strawberry, rose floral, underbrush, herbs, and savoury earth with touches of stony mineral and citrus. On the medium-full to full-bodied palate it is dry with very good structure and lovely dried red cherry, rose floral, savoury scorched earth, mineral, sweet spice flavours, plus touches of tangy orange citrus adding further interest and complexity. It has very good, food-friendly and structured acidity, while the youthful, structured, and chalky textured tannins are integrating nicely. Well-balanced throughout with red cherry and floral notes giving way to savoury earth and minerals on the long, crisp finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy that is enjoyable now, but will reward cellaring and drink well into the mid-to-late 2030s. Score: 93 pts

Other excellent wines by Fattoria dei Barbi can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Nativ Rue 333 Taurasi 2018 (Campania) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Aglianico from the DOCG Taurasi appellation in Campania. It is a recent, brand-new arrival at the LCBO that is available as a Destination Collection item which can be ordered online or picked up in-store at the Italy Destination Collection outlet in Woodbridge.

Like the excellent 2018 Nativ Bicento Irpinia Campi Taurasini I enjoyed last year, this red wine is also produced by Vini Nativ, a winery that was founded in 2008 on the slopes of the immaculate hills of Taurasi, in the heart of Irpinia, within the commune of Paternopoli, Province of Avellino, and region of Campania in southern Italy. Vini Nativ was established by Dr. Mario Ercolino, an internationally renowned Oenologist, and Dr. Roberta Pirone, a Specialist in Food Science, and together they have quickly become recognized for producing wines of excellence resulting from important and deep experiences in their respective fields. Their aim is to produce typical wines of the territory using indigenous varieties such as Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Aglianico, and (like tonight's wine) Aglianico of Taurasi.

The grapes for each of their wines are grown across the estate's approximately 15 hectares of land. These precious vineyards are spread out between Paternopoli and Taurasi, on fertile, volcanic soils. The name "Nativ" was chosen to represent Native Productions - the origin of Irpinia viticulture and outlining the concept of "native to the place", while using grapes typical of the territory to craft wines that reflect the unique terroir. Each Nativ wine has a unique and unequivocal character, as it is produced through innovative winemaking methods, while respecting tradition, and always keeping the organoleptic structure of the grape unaltered. The engine that drives the company is love and respect for the terroir and vine, and it is the realization of a profession, way of living, and doing business. Nativ has several ranges of wines in their portfolio, with this red wine part of their top-of-the-line Cru range.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Aglianico that was grown in the Taurasi DOCG in Irpinia, a sub-region of Campania. The grapes were grown on highly suitable, hilly soils that are mainly volcanic in nature, while the vines were trained using the Avellinese radial, trellis system with spurred cordon in new vineyards. After harvesting the grapes from late October to early November, the grapes were brought to the winery and macerated for about 20 days. It underwent alcoholic fermentation using both autochthonous (wild) yeast and selected yeast, and was refined in 225 L French oak barrels for 24 months in the modern, cutting-edge cellar.

The growing season during the 2018 vintage was quite problematic in Campania due to a cold winter, plentiful rain, and some hail in spring, while late summer heat helped speed up the ripening process. Many wines are unbalanced with low acidity, while the size of harvest was also very small. Let's see how this 2018 Taurasi from Campania is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

NATIV RUE 333 TAURASI 2018 - DOCG, Campania, Italy (#34403) (D) - $46.95
100% Aglianico. The intense, highly aromatic nose offers a lovely bouquet of ripe dark berry, black plum, blackberry, black cherry, dark spices, and mineral aromas. On the rich, concentrated, and medium-full to full-bodied palate it has ripe, sweet fruited flavours of blackberry, black cherry, and plum that surrounds a savoury core of dark mineral ash, savoury earth, and smoky oak notes. Lemony acids are crisp and juicy, while the approachable tannins have some pleasantly chalky, youthful grip. Savoury with mineral and smoky oak notes linger on the long, dry finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 8-10 years. Score: 92 pts

Other fine wines by Vini Nativ can be ordered through their Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits.

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Château Beau-Site 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful Left Bank Bordeaux red wine from the Saint-Estèphe appellation that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent May 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Borie-Manoux, a wine merchant whose origins started as a wine trading company that was established in 1870 by the Borie family. Today, Borie-Manoux is a significant wine merchant in the Bordeaux wine industry with a rich history and a diverse portfolio of estates. Borie-Manoux is currently owned and managed by the Castéja family, with Philippe Castéja as President.

Château Beau-Site is one of Borie-Manoux's Bordeaux wine estates. Situated in Saint-Estèphe, it was founded in the 18th century and is one of the oldest estates in the commune. At the time of its founding, it was part of Château Morin. Its name - Beau-Site - reflects its scenic location as it overlooks the entire vineyard and has magnificent panoramic views extending towards the Gironde river. Château Beau-Site's first owner was M. de Camiran, while in the 1860s it became the property of M. Grazilhon, at which point in time the name was changed to Château Beau-Site-Grazilhon.

The term "Cru Bourgeois" is used to describe wines of great quality and value, and graced the bottles of Château Beau-Site wines for the first time, starting in 1868. A few years later, the château was upgraded to Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and continued until the 1990s. A change in ownership in the 1920s led to the château reverting to its original name, with Mme Faugeras managing the property for several decades before selling it in the 1940s to M. Legendre.

In 1955, Château Beau-Site joined the Borie family after it was acquired by Marcel Borie. Marcel worked hard to restore the château to its former glory, and as part of this restoration, all the wines were now made and aged on-site, with the vat room filled with wooden vats. Towards the end of the 1950s, Marcel took over Château Haut-Vignoble Seguin, a 5-hectare vineyard that now produces Château Beau-Site's second wine.

After Marcel Borie died in 1961, his son-in-law, Émile Castéja, took over the reins and over the ensuing decade Émile replaced the wooden vats with epoxy-coated metal vats. By the end of the 1980s, he had replaced some of the metal vats with stainless steel vats.

In 2001, Émile Castéja retired and was succeeded by his son, Philippe Castéja. Upon taking over, Philippe quickly began work on the Château by making a number of improvements, such as digging an underground passageway between the barrel cellar and the vat room to make it easier for visitors to get around. In 2005, the tasting room was set up at the entrance to the barrel cellar and offered a view over the estuary. In 2006, the vat room's interior was completely refurbished, while the Château was completely refurbished and refurnished so that it could accommodate the family of Chantal Preben-Hansen, Philippe Castéja's sister, as well as visitors.

Sustainable winemaking practices were initiated by Philippe when he took over, and developed them further from 2014 as he was able to convince the family and team that the environment was an integral part of the wines and important for consumers. Since that time, the Casteja family has continuously sought ways to increase their commitment to sustainable winemaking. With sustainability at the top of mind, traditional vineyard work is still carried out with precision to ensure the highest quality grapes. The old vines have been carefully preserved to produce distinguished and elegant wines comparable to those of its illustrious neighbour, Château Calon-Ségur. At the winery, precision winemaking is terroir-focused.

As Saint-Estèphe is part of the Médoc region and situated at the northern tip of the Haut-Médoc, on the Left Bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux, the area has been planted with vines since Roman times, and further developed by English merchants from the Middle Ages onwards. The drainage of marshland in the 17th century led to further increases in surface land area and vineyards. The Saint-Estèphe AOC was officially recognized in 1936 thanks to its diverse climate and geology. The oceanic climate is temperate, but warm enough for the vines to thrive, while the soils are composed of gravelly alluvium, limestone, and oyster marl.

As the flagship of the estate, the 2018 vintage of this elegant wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. The grapes were traditionally picked by hand and sorted on tables in the vineyard, then transferred into tipping buckets which carry the grapes back to the winery. Each plot was vinified separately, fermentation occurring over four weeks in small-capacity, temperature-controlled vats, at fairly low temperatures. Gentle extractions help preserve the fruit, while allowing the terroir to express itself. Each plot was aged in French oak barrels (approx. 40% new) for 6 months, then blended and aged a further 12 months prior to bottling on-site.

From the excellent 2018 vintage, let's see how this 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE 2018 - AC Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France (#647933) (XD) - $48.95
This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot has a rich, ripe, and brooding nose with medium-high to high intensity aromatics of dark red and black fruits, currant, cassis, and black cherry notes joined by spicy, fine wood spices, and sandalwood surrounding a core of savoury forest floor. On the dry, full-bodied bodied palate it is rich, spicy, and a touch warm with savoury earth, fine wood spice, blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, and graphite mineral flavours accented with dried herbs. Some licorice and clove spice notes appear on the mid-palate to add further interest. Acids are juicy and mouth-watering, while the refined, well-structured tannins have a gently chalky textured mouthfeel and are quite approachable at this stage. Savoury, graphite, and dried herb notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Will improve further with age and enjoy into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Borie-Manoux can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Bichot Saint-Romain Pinot Noir 2018 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from Burgundy that was a new arrival at the LCBO in December. It was included as part of the theme of "Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining" in the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and would be a fine match for upcoming family feasts, with the added bonus that it's on clearance right now, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase.

It is produced by the prestigious and historic Maison Albert Bichot. The first traces of the family name date back to 1214, while in 1350 they settled in Burgundy, France. The Bichot family's coat of arms - a doe (biche) - was established in the 14th century and has not changed since. In 1831, Bernard Bichot founded a wine trading business in his name in Monthélie, while his son, Hippolyte, succeeded him and bought the first vines in Volnay. Hippolyte's son, Albert Bichot, the first to bear the name, gave the family business new momentum in the late 19th century and settled in the centre of Beaune in 1912.

Born in 1900, the second Albert Bichot was a pioneer of international commerce and travelled the globe to introduce the family's wines, which were already recognized as being among the best. During the second half of the 20th century, Albert's four sons - Albert, Bernard, Bénigne, and Jean-Marc - inherited the family business and know-how, and a new era of expansion with the construction of a large cellar, bottling facility, and winery.

In the early 1990s, Albéric Bichot, the son of the third Albert, joined the family company and took over its management in 1996. Though he fully respects long-held family traditions, he is completely focused on the future. He compares himself to the conductor of an orchestra and is proud to bring people and their talents together over a common project. Albéric has numerous challenges, such as converting to organic viticulture in the Côte-d'Or vineyards, ongoing adaptation to new markets, and increasing the prestige and exposure of Burgundy wines, but he is convinced that the quality of the wine is dependent on the quality of the grapes. Thus, he is focused on developing control of grape growing, a task that began in the 1980s. Albéric also secured equipment, expanded vinification capacity, and the ageing cellars, while the company's vineyards now total 6 estates that are spread out across Burgundy from the north to the south.

Today, the philosophy at Albert Bichot is based on protecting their children's planet, and respect for the terroir and nature. They practice sustainable viticulture based on observation, prevention, and being attentive to the complex balances found in nature. The soil is maintained responsibly, while encouraging manual labour that boosts the plants’ natural defences. Bichot also follows up on their partners' grower plots with the same thoroughness and philosophy as their own. At the winery, they apply a minimal interventionist approach during the vinification process so that the wines reveal the terroir and characteristics of the village where they hail from. The wine is carefully transferred from the vinification vats or barrels to the cellars by means of gravity. It is during the key period, while in the cellar, that time and expertise come together, and the wines truly acquire their body, reveal their personality, and all of their potential.

Crafted with 100% Pinot Noir, this red wine was grown in the village appellation of Saint-Romain, in the central part of Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. The appellation is situated in an isolated valley to the north of the Cote d'Or's main escarpment and stands at the foot of a high cliff, but at an elevation which enables it to look out over a wide stretch of the countryside. While bears and lions roamed here 100,000 years ago, the area has been a focus of human activity since neolithic times. The area was one of the first places in Bourgogne where the Celts and Gallo-Romans cultivated vines, and eventually led to Saint-Romain being instituted as an appellation in 1947. The terroir in Saint-Romain can be traced back to the earliest period of the Jurassic, with the soil consisting of a blend of limestone and marl, with patches of clay. The vines in Saint-Romain, which face south-southeast and north-northeast at altitudes between 280 and 400 metres, occupy a sloping site where they benefit from the excellent soil. The Pinot Noir vines used to craft this wine were grown in brown limestone soil. It was vinified in oak barrels (20% new) for 6 to 8 weeks, and remained in oak barrels (25% new) for 14 to 16 months to maturation.

The 2018 growing season was noted for being one of the hottest and driest growing seasons since the intense heatwave of 2003. Despite a wet winter and spring, perfect weather arrived in time for an early, but very successful flowering. Summer was hot and exceedingly dry, followed by ideal conditions arriving in August and September, which meant that producers could harvest their grapes at their own leisure. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2018 Pinot Noir from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BICHOT SAINT-ROMAIN PINOT NOIR 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#33708) (XD) - $41.95 $34.75
From the Saint-Romain village appellation of Côte de Beaune, this Pinot Noir has a perfumed, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers a lovely bouquet of rose floral, sweet spices, ripe red & black cherry, earthy mineral, and mushroom aromas. It's light-to-mid weighted with good structure and fine, crisp, and tangy acidity that supports the ripe red & black cherry, gentle oak spice, and earthy mineral flavours with touches of beetroot. The light tannins have a subtle, chalky textured grip. Earthy mineral notes linger on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Other fine wines by Maison Albert Bichot are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Katogi Averoff Inima Xinomavro 2018 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Xinomavro from Greece that is brand new to the LCBO, arriving in stores across Ontario last weekend in the November 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Katogi Averoff, a Greek winery that began as a hobby in the late 1905's when Evangelos Averoff, a prominent politician, author, and businessman, planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Greece, on the steep slopes of Mount Pindus. He later bottled the first vintage of what would become the famous Katogi Averoff wines at his home cellar in Metsovo. The words "Vines of France on the mountains of Greece..." adorned the label of the first wine, a label which he lovingly designed.

While initially just a hobby, Averoff developed a vision to replant and transform the abandoned slopes of Pindus into vineyards, as well as revive the indigenous vinicultural tradition that flourished in the region in the 18th and 19th centuries. He also had a desire to boost the economic and cultural development in the region.

With the help of experts in Greece and France, Averoff developed one of Greece's most celebrated and highest-altitude vineyards, which are situated 950 - 1,050 metres above sea level. He also built a small winery on the eastern outskirts of Metsovo and became famous in Greece, while also garnering international awards. Averoff's red wine became the cornerstone of his quest to revive indigenous Greek grape varieties and develop successful blends with foreign varieties, a vision that was reflected in Katogi being one of the earliest to embrace authentic vinegrowing and winemaking methods.

After Evangelos Averoff passed away in 1990, Katogi Averoff continued to grow while remaining true to its founder's vision. His son-in-law, Sotiris Ioannou, became managing director and, under his guidance, new vineyards were planted in the Metsovo region, while experimenting with new grape varieties and blends continued. The winery has also undergone constant updates and expansion, thereby increasing production and expanding its national and international distribution.

Today, Katogi Averoff is managed by Alexander Ioannou, Evangelos' grandson, and continues to cultivate vineyards in the Metsovo region, while focusing on reviving indigenous varieties of the region, and developing wine tourism. The philosophy at Katogi Averoff is based on finding inspiration in life and people, in vines that flourish under difficult conditions, in bears and birds - their companions in the Metsovo vineyards, and in people who overcome all adversities to create. Katogi Averoff is inspired by everything that delights the senses and frees the mind and soul - everything that transforms their winemaking pursuit into a true state of mind.

The name of this wine is "Inima", which means "heart, soil" in Metsovo's local Vlach dialect. This wine is an expression of the positive energy and enthusiasm of everyone who has put their heart and soul into the production of this new range of wines by Katogi Averoff. It is crafted with 100% Xinomavro that was grown in a select vineyard in Rudina, within PDO Naoussa in northern Greece. The 30+ year-old vines are planted on well-drained, sandy clay soil, while the climate in the region is continental, with cold winters and hot summers. Furthermore, the cool air currents from Mount Vermion allow the grapes to ripen fully. After harvesting the grapes in late-September, the grapes were macerated for 7 days, followed by undergoing alcoholic fermentation for 20 days. The wine is then transferred into 300 L French Nevers-oak barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation. It rests on its lees for 2 months, and is aged in barrel for a minimum of 10 months. Let's see how this 2018 Xinomavro from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KATOGI AVEROFF INIMA XINOMAVRO 2018 - PDO Naoussa, Greece (#30680) (XD) - $27.95
100% Xinomavro, this has clean, fragrant, and slightly perfumed aromatics that are intense with dark red cherry, black cherry, savoury wet earth, and sandalwood notes, along with touches of fine oak spice, black plum, and rose floral notes emerging with time in the glass. It's medium-full bodied with firm, grippy, and drying tannins that add weight and structure to the palate. It's dry with lovely flavours of black cherry, dark red cherry, savoury wet earth, rose floral, sandalwood, and oak spice replays, with touches of licorice and leather adding further complexity. It has very good, juicy acidity, while savoury earth with touches of mineral linger on the long, dry finish. It reminds me a bit of Nebbiolo. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other fine wines by Katogi Averoff can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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El Esteco Malbec 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this excellent Malbec from the high altitude Calchaquí Valley in Salta, Argentina. While this is an older vintage that is not available for purchase, you can get the 2021 vintage that just arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the November 4 LCBO New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bodega El Esteco, a renowned winery that was established in 1892 by David Michel, a French immigrant, in the Calchaquí Valleys, which is part of the province of Salta in northwestern Argentina. The winery is located at high altitude in the Andes Mountains, a natural landscape carved by the sun, mountains, and vineyards, and in an area which provides a unique and advantageous terroir for the cultivation of high-quality winegrowing. El Esteco was one of the first institutions in Argentina to master the art of viticulture and winemaking. They have a significant presence in the famous Cafayate, as well as the little-known and unique sub-region of Chañar Punco. Cafayate is the heart of Calchaquí Valleys, a region that was seemingly unsuitable for grape-growing, but is an isolated stretch of desert with unique features that make it ideal to grow the highest vineyards in the world.

Today, El Esteco is considered one of the leading wine producers in the Salta region, as well as the broader Argentine wine industry. They own nearly 1,000 acres of vineyards at an ideal high altitude of more than 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level. The vineyards, which have poor soils, experience abundant sunshine and perfect diurnal temperature range - conditions which help produce high-quality wines. The winery has undergone numerous transformations over the years, all of which are encapsulated in the vallisto Spanish colonial-style hundred-year-old building where it resides today, and influenced by ancient civilizations, Hispanic influence, and the Criollo spirit. Inside the winery, El Esteco uses the latest wine technologies such as concrete vessels, stainless steel tanks, and poetic French and American oak barrels - all of which help create wines of diverse styles, flavours, and aromas.

With several ranges of wines in the portfolio, this red wine is under the El Esteco range, bearing the name of the winery, and pays tribute to the winery's history and expertise. It is crafted with 100% Malbec that was grown in the heart of the Calchaqui Valley, where El Esteco was found. The Valley is situated at over 1,800 metres above sea level and features poor alluvial soils, high sun exposure, low humidity, and broad thermal amplitude - all characteristics which make the Calchaqui Valley an exceptional wine region. The concentrated bunches of grapes were manually harvested in plastic bins and brought to the winery for pre-fermentative maceration in stainless steel tanks. It was fermented using both native and selected yeasts, and underwent natural malolactic fermentation in both American and French oak barrels, followed by ageing in these same oak barrels for 12 months. After careful barrel selection, the wine was blended and bottled unfiltered, and aged a further 6 months in bottle prior to release.

With nearly ideal growing conditions in 2018, the result was well-structured wines that feature fine-grained tannins and ripe fruit flavors, as well as harvest yields that returned to normal after a series of short vintages. Let's see how this 2018 Malbec from northern Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ESTECO MALBEC 2018 - Calchaquí Valley, Salta, Argentina (#113191) (XD) - $21.95
Lovely, fragrant, open, and highly aromatic on the nose with violet, blackberry, dark fruit, stony minerality, savoury wet earth, and touches of black plum aromas. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, spicy, and dark fruited palate with lovely violet, blackberry, stony mineral, and earthy flavour replays. Acids are still quite fresh, lively, and juicy, while the maturing tannins are smooth and fine-grained, but still offers a slightly grippy texture and nice structure. The finish length is excellent with lingering savoury, stony mineral, and earthy notes. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Highly recommended! Score: 91+ pts

Other lovely wines by El Esteco are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dandurand.

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Marqués de Griñon Clásico 2018 (Rioja) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Rioja from Spain that arrived as a brand new wine to the LCBO over the summer as part of the June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Marqués de Griñon, a title and prestigious wine estate located in Toledo, in central Spain. The title and winery are linked to the family of Carlos Falcó, a Spanish aristocrat and winemaker who played a significant role in elevating the status of Spanish wines.

Carlos Falcó (1937-2020), the 5th Marqués de Griñón, was a visionary winemaker and a key figure in Spain's wine industry, dedicating himself to improving the quality of Spanish wines, particularly those from the Denominación de Origen (DO) regions of La Mancha and Dominio de Valdepusa. As a pioneer, he introduced new grape varieties and modern winemaking techniques to the Spanish wine industry.

In 1974, Carlos planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Castilla La Mancha, while also becoming the first in the world to use drip irrigation in the vineyard that same year. In 1982, he began using the consulting services of Émile Peynaud, professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux, while in 1989 construction was completed on the brand new Dominio de Valdepusa winery that featured Spain's first climate-controlled ageing cellar. In 1991, he began using the consulting services of renowned oenologist Michel Rolland, while also being the first in Spain to plant Syrah, and a year later he was the first to plant Petit Verdot. In 1993, Carlos introduced trellis systems featuring the advanced Lira and Smart-Dyson designs. After planting the first Petit Verdot in Spain in 1992, two years later he launched the world's first single-varietal Petit Verdot wine.

The innovations continued in 1999 with the introduction of computerised electronic controls to monitor soil moisture, along with dendrometers to measure the water stress of the vines. At the turn of the century, they began experimenting with the Graciano varietal and also planted the small El Rincón estate vineyard in Aldea del Fresno, Madrid. Carlos was also instrumental in helping create DO Dominio de Valdepusa, a status that was granted by the Government of Castilla-La Mancha in 2002, and ratified by the European Commission in 2003, followed in 2006 by measurements and observations of the root systems within the DO with the assistance of international soil guru - Claude Bourguignon. The excellent results of the experimental planting of Graciano in DO Dominio de Valdepusa led to expanded plantings of the varietal.

This particular red wine is from their Signature Wines range and crafted with 100% Tempranillo that was grown in clay and limestone soils, from vines that average 20 years old. As a Crianza, it was aged for 2 years, with at least 1 year spent in American oak barrels. Let's see how this Tempranillo from Rioja is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MARQUÉS DE GRIÑON CLÁSICO 2018 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#30207) (XD) - $19.95
100% Tempranillo. The medium-high intensity nose is oak spice and dark fruit driven with coconut, dark cherry and blackberry aromas with a hint of floral. On the medium-full bodied palate it offers delicious coconut, oak spice, dark berry, black cherry flavours that leads to a mid-palate with graphite mineral notes. It's supported by tangy, juicy acidity and smooth, supple, nicely textured, and lightly grippy tannins with good structure. Very good length on the crisp, savoury, earthy, mineral-tinged finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Marqués de Griñon can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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Cavaliere d'Oro Riserva Chianti Classico 2018 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a consistently well-made and lovely Riserva Chianti Classico that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the October 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Castello di Gabbiano (CDG), an historic castle and winery whose story began with the construction of the cellars in the year 1124 in the heart of the Chianti region in Tuscany, Italy. In that epoch, the castle belonged to the Bardi family, one of the most important banking families of Florence. In the second half of the 13th century, the family began the extension of the fortress by building perimeter walls and battlements in the typical Guelph style of the era. The castle remained in the Bardi family until the early part of the 15th century, until it was passed on to the Soderini family, one of the most politically influential families in Florence.

The Soderini family converted the turreted family house of Gabbiano in Fattoria, which was completed by the late 15th century. It was during the period of Soderini's ownership, in 1464, when the land survey was presented by Tommaso Soderini to the "Officials" of the Land Registry of the Republic of Florence, where it was noted that wine and oil were the most highly prized produce of the estate.

Over the course of a century, the Soderini family added new buildings on several occasions, as can be deduced from the stonework which revealed various phases of development, until it was converted into a large quadrilateral building, which also formed a kind of private fortalice that was anchored with four cylindrical turrets reinforcing the corners. By 1505, the Soderini family converted the castle into a structure more like the present day version, with a round tower erected at each corner of the castle, displaying French architectural influence. Unfortunately, the Soderini's were declared rebels by the powerful Medici family during a struggle in the 16th century, which led to them being banned from Florence, and the castle abandoned for a long time. However, the Soderini family was able to return to their homeland in the 17th century and gave the castle new life.

From the 19th century onwards, the families who owned the property carried out various restoration works, while fully respecting the architectural features of the castle. One such building is a neo-classical style private chapel that was built in the 19th century while under the ownership of the Del Turco family.

Today, Castello di Gabbiano is owned by the multinational alcoholic beverage company Treasury Wine Estates. Castello di Gabbiano is situated in UGA of Castellina in Chianti and has 147 hectares of vines, of which 109 hectares are DOCG Chianti Classico, with 85% of their vines planted to Sangiovese, while applying certified sustainable viticulture practices across all of their vineyards and respecting the environment. In the winery, ancient traditions are combined with innovation and modern technology. The ancient cellar of the castle, which has been in use since the 14th century, has been skilfully restored while fully respecting the original architecture.

The winemaker at Castello di Gabbiano is Federico Cerelli. He joined CDG in 2011 after gaining 10 years of experience working at prestigious Italian wineries and supervising important winemaking projects in Tuscany and the Chianti Classico wine region. Federico trusts the most traditional practices that, over time, have become established the best - while embracing modern technology. This led to the creation of the first fermentation system with a mechanized and computerized punching down system.

Named Cavaliere d’Oro, which means "The Gold Knight", this red wine is crafted with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, using only the finest grapes from their estate vineyards. The fruit parcels from the different sites were kept separate during the vinification and ageing process, providing the winemaker with an enticing range of flavours and textures to create the final, blended wine. The grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation on skins in small, stainless steel tanks, followed by a secondary natural malolactic fermentation - with half in stainless steel and the other half in natural French oak - to help round out the wine while obtaining optimal acidity and freshness. The oak ageing occurred for 10 months in 15 to 30 hectolitre casks and 225 litre barrels, with only 10% new oak, and underwent further maturation for 12 months in bottle prior to release. Let's see how this 2018 Riserva Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVALIERE D'ORO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#216309) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot has richly fragrant and spicy aromas rising out of the glass, followed by attractive and captivating notes of pure red cherry, cinnamon, sweet spices, clove, forest floor, and orange citrus with hints of wet earth. The spicy notes continue on the medium-full to full-bodied palate, joined by lovely dark red cherry, savoury oak spices, forest floor, leather, and orange citrus flavours. Some dried herbal characters appear on the juicy mid-palate, with fresh acidity, while the fine-grained tannins are impressively structured. Savoury with touches of mineral and leather linger on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy to the end of the decade! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Castello di Gabbiano is available at the LCBO, while other wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Davis Bynum Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 (California) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley that arrived at the LCBO as a Summer Smart Buy in the August 19th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Davis Bynum Winery - the original Russian River Valley Pinot Noir wine producer. The story begins in 1973, when Davis Bynum released his first small lot single vineyard Pinot Noir from the famed Rochioli vineyard in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. At the time, Pinot Noir was a relative stranger to the region, but this fickle grape thrived in the unique terroir of the Russian River Valley. As Davis Bynum was the first to produce a single vineyard, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, his efforts paved the way for the Russian River Valley winegrowing region to become one of California's finest for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

In 2007, Davis Bynum Winery was sold to proprietor Tom Klein and his family, 4th generation California farmers who shared the same values and principles that he built his own reputation on. Today, it remains in the capable hands of Tom Klein and winemaker Greg Morthole, as they honour the expertise and innovative winemaking spirit of founder, friend, and mentor Davis Bynum. Together, they are humbled and proud to carry on the Davis Bynum legacy while staying true to Bynum's philosophy.

The philosophy at Davis Bynum is based on intuitive winemaking - the techniques and technicalities of winemaking should be mastered to the extent that they take a backseat to instinct and intuition. With four decades of understanding the unique terroir of the Russian River Valley, this knowledge allows Davis Bynum to craft wines with emotion and soil at the forefront, but anchored by the innate understanding of this terroir's complexity. In the vineyard, they use certified sustainable vineyard practices, while opting for minimalist viticulture and handling the fruit with the utmost care. The grapes are also handpicked at night, before sunrise, which ensures that the grapes have stable sugar levels and, since they are already cool, the grapes require less chilling prior to crushing, thus saving energy. In keeping with their "hands off" approach, the grapes are naturally fermented in barrel using wild yeasts and bottled unfiltered. Each wine bearing the Bynum name is estate grown, bottled, and produced.

All of their wines are crafted with fruit exclusively from the Russian River Valley, a winegrowing region that has cool, maritime conditions that are ideal for early ripening varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The climate in this region is influenced by the consistent creep of cooling fog from the Pacific Ocean a few miles to the west. This fog ebbs and flows through the Petaluma Wind Gap and the channel cut by the Russian River across the coastal hills, typically arriving in the evening and dropping temperatures, and retreating to the ocean the following morning. This naturally cool climate allows wine grapes to develop full flavour maturity over an extended growing season, while retaining their natural acidity.

While Davis Bynum is distinguished as the first winery to produce a single vineyard Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, with their 1973 Pinot Noir from the Joe Rochioli vineyard, this particular Pinot is hand-crafted with grapes from four vineyards which reside on Goldridge sandy loam soils: Jane's, Dutton Lorenzo, Dutton Gregori, and Dutton Barron. This particular vintage blends the characteristics of two separate neighbourhoods - the warmer Santa Rosa Plains that provide darker fruit tones and velvety tannins, and the much cooler Green Valley that adds brightness and vibrant acidity. By blending warmer climate fruit with cooler climate fruit, Davis Bynum is able to craft a wine with tension between the rich fruit and lush mouthfeel of a centrally located Russian River vineyards in Santa Rosa against the bright fruit and racy acidity of the westernmost vineyards in the Green Valley. The final blend of this Pinot Noir was created after each different vineyard block was fermented and aged separately for 13 months in French and Hungarian oak barrels, 22% new.

The 2018 growing season was mild with low precipitation at just under 2 feet of rain, while summer saw only a handful of days warmer than 32°C, but none over 38°C, at their Jane's Vineyard, located in the warmer Santa Rosa Plains. The grapes were harvested into early September on cool and overcast mornings. From near-perfect growing conditions, let's see how this 2018 Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DAVIS BYNUM RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2018 - Sustainable, Sonoma County, California, USA (#458893) (XD) - $34.95
Elegant, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers lovely bright red cherry aromas that mingle with musky, strawberry, gentle oak spice, and earth, plus hints of tea leaf, beetroot, and plum adding further complexity. It has good weight and concentration on the medium to medium-full bodied, dry palate with ripe red cherry, dark berry, strawberry, gentle oak spice, tea leaf, earth, and beetroot flavours in a nicely balanced profile. Acids are crisp, fresh, and juicy, while the refined tannins are lightly grippy, offering a pleasing mouthfeel. Tangy dark red berries with earthy mineral notes linger on the long, crisp finish. Should drink nicely over the next 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Other fine wines by Davis Bynum are available through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Le Vigne di Zamó Il Refosco 2018 (Friuli) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a delicious red wine crafted with the Refosco varietal from Friuli. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the July 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Le Vigne di Zamò, a well-known Italian winery situated in the heart of the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC in Manzano, within the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy. Their story begins in 1924, when the Zamò family opened Osteria di Manzano. It was managed by Luigi, father of Tullio and grandfather of Pierluigi and Silvano. The Zamò family's adventure in wine began in 1978 when Tullio purchased five hectares of vineyards on Rocca Bernarda hill and founded the estate Vigna del Leon.

In 1981, brothers Pierluigi and Silvano Zamò rented vineyards around Rosazzo Abbey from the Diocesan Administration of Udine and created their first wines under the brand new "Abazia di Rosazzo" label. In 1987, two champions of the wine world joined the team Zamò: Silvano Formigli, who was responsible for commercial development, and international acclaimed oenologist - Franco Bernabei. The 1990s were a time of expansion and success, with the family purchasing five hectares of vineyards at Ronchi di Buttrio, and another 15 hectares of vineyards right in front of the Abbey. In 1998, they restored the old farmhouse while also renting the oldest and best exposed vineyards on Rosazzo hill, bringing the total surface area of the estate's vineyards to 35 hectares. At the turn of the century, they purchased two more hectares of land on Rosazzo hill, while also working on extensive renovations.

In 2010, Oscar Farinetti entered into a partnership with Pierluigi and Silvano Zamò. Inspired by Tullio's passion for the land and ancestral love of wine, they decided to continue his work with the aim of maintaining the family nature of the estate. Their philosophy is that making wine is a sign of civilization, while strengthening the link between man and his land, his origins, and tradition. They manage their vineyards using natural methods, including the use of natural fertilizers, such as manure and humus, while keeping grass growth down mechanically. Although the Zamó family have always focused on sustainability in both the vineyard and cellar, the 2021 harvest was the first certified organic harvest for the winery. The family's production philosophy also respects the law and timing of nature as it pertains to the phases of grape growing, a simplistic approach that is reflected in the balance of the wines. While Friuli is internationally renowned for its white wines, the Zamó family have always invested considerably in its red wines, using autochthonous grape varieties such as Pignolo and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso.

This red wine is crafted using Refosco, a very old family of dark-skinned grape varieties that are native to the Venetian zone in Italy and the surrounding areas such as Friuli. It is believed that Refosco has its ancient origins in the Mediterranean and has been cultivated in Italy for centuries. There are several sub-varieties within the Refosco family and this particular red wine is made using Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, the most internationally recognizable sub-variety of Refosco, with the most notable examples coming from the Colli Orientali region of Friuli. This particular variant of Refosco has red stems (aka red stalks or peduncle) which hold the grapes to the vine.

To craft this wine, the grapes were de-stemmed and crushed, then transferred to stainless steel maceration vats for 10-12 days. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine was racked into stainless steel tanks and the pomace was pressed. Malolactic fermentation was completed in steel and followed by racking into 25 hL oak barrels where it aged for 12 months. Following ageing, the final wine is blended and bottled. Let's see how this 2018 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso from Friuli is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE VIGNE DI ZAMÓ IL REFOSCO 2018 - DOC Collio Orientali del Friuli, Italy (#105882) (XD) - $32.95
100% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, this has a medium-high intensity nose that is quite attractive with a pleasing mix of ripe, plummy, dark berry, blackberry, black raspberry, and resinous herbal aromas with some earthy barnyard notes laying underneath. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied with high, sharp, and tangy acidity. Ripe and plummy on the dry flavour profile, it's joined by dark berry, black raspberry, and savoury undertones, plus touches of licorice. Tannins are youthful and a touch tight and grippy, while the tangy mid-palate leads to a long, savoury, earthy, and dark berry-tinged finish. A worthy detour and highly recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Le Vigne di Zamó can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Greystone Pinot Noir 2018 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is another excellent, organic, and vegan-friendly Pinot Noir from New Zealand. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving as part of the recent July 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Greystone Wines, a 100% certified organic winery that was established in 2000 by the Thomas Family when they saw something magical - a promise of excellence - in an old sheep farm in Waipara’s Omihi Hills, in northern Canterbury on the South Island of New Zealand. Greystone draws its name from the unique limestone conglomerate that is the bedrock on which their vine roots grow in. This limestone mix of fossils, sea shells, and small pebbles had been fused together over time through the seismic movement of North Canterbury, becoming an ancient seabed that was pushed and folded upwards to form the Teviotdale Hills. Pinot Noir loves soils with limestone, and thus different clones, aspects and blocks were planted to see what was capable from this bare land.

As the family believes that true fine wines are temporal, each vintage a fleeting snapshot of a place in time. The family doesn't seek to manipulate the final product with additives or flavourings, instead, they allow the true interpretation of the soil, vines, and season to shine through. They take intense pleasure in protecting their land and using organic practices as it leads to many ecological benefits, such as healthy soils, healthy waterways, biodiversity, and a safe place for bees and other beneficial insects. The use of natural products throughout production also provides a safe and happy work environment for their dedicated team. They see their commitment to organic winegrowing as a bigger picture collaboration with the planet towards a more stable climate and sustainable ecosystem.

The story of how Greystone became one of New Zealand's most acclaimed organic vineyards began in early 2014 when they started their conversion from conventional to organic viticulture. By 2018, they had successfully converted their entire 33-hectare vineyard to certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. In 2021, they began their journey to become a fully regenerative and carbon-neutral farm. Today, Greystone is one of NZ's first regenerative agricultural wine brands.

Organic winegrowing relies on harnessing biodiversity and natural ecological cycles as an alternative to the use of synthetic and external inputs. It is a hands-on and labour-intensive approach, which also means being intimately connected to the vineyard and attuned to the subtle changes in the soil, vines, and grapes. Synthetic chemicals are avoided to ensure the health and abundance of microbial flora above and below the soil, which results in successful wild fermentation as this is only possible because of the flourishing yeast populations found in the vineyard.

As vineyards are a monoculture, to increase biodiversity, Greystone cultivates "companion plantings" such as Phacelia, Buckwheat, and Alyssum in the inter-rows, as well as planting native trees and vegetation to disrupt the monocultural environment. Crop management is meticulously done by hand without the use of any herbicides, insecticides, or systemic fungicides, thus reducing disease pressure and increasing overall wine quality.

This 100% Pinot Noir (clones 115, 667, 777, and 5) was organically grown on their estate, on clay over limestone soils. The grapes were carefully hand-picked and sorted, then wild fermented with 10% whole bunches at ambient temperatures. They gently hand plunged each vat daily before pressing to French oak barriques after one month of maceration. Each barrel underwent a natural malolactic fermentation the following summer. It was aged for 11 months in French oak barriques, 28% new, and was then blended and bottled.

The growing season in Waipara Valley began with spring rains that cooled the soil and gave the vines a slow start to the season. Flowering wasn't ideal, leading to small bunches and lots of leaf growth, so it needed extensive canopy work to ensure even ripening. Summer helped turn things around in the new year with a particularly dry & hot February, leading to a harvest that delivered pristine fruit with great concentration, but very small yields. Let's see how this 2018 Pinot Noir from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GREYSTONE PINOT NOIR 2018 - Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand (#30151) (XD) - $33.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this lovely organic and vegan-friendly Pinot Noir has a fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic nose with a lovely, balanced, and complex mix of dark red cherry, strawberry, spices, earthy-stony minerality and beetroot aromas. It's mid-weighted with very good concentration on the elegant palate with smooth, gentle, and refined tannins, along with fresh, juicy acidity. It's very nicely balanced with lovely dark red cherry, strawberry, earthy beetroot, and spices, plus touches of plum flavours surrounding a stony mineral core. Supple mouthfeel with tea leaf notes emerging on the mid-palate, while the finish is exceptionally long with lingering stony mineral notes. Wow. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 93 pts

A limited quantiy of other fine wines by Greystone are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Blue Label Merlot 2018 and Red Label Zinfandel 2019 (California) - Wine Reviews

For Father's Day, tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of delicious red wines from California that are arriving at the LCBO in next weekend's June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

These wines are produced by Francis Ford Coppola Winery. Famous for their name in cinema, the Coppola family purchased the historic Chateau Souverain property in Sonoma County in 2006 so they could create a resort, a wine wonderland, and a place to celebrate the love of life. After two years of renovations, the winery had its grand opening in 2010 with a tasting room, museum, and restaurant, and encompasses all that Francis loves most - cinema, wine, food, resorts and adventure. The backbone of each of these endeavours is the deep commitment to quality, authenticity, and pleasure.

With more than 20 years of experience in the wine industry, Corey Beck is the Executive Vice President Production & Chief Winemaker at Coppola. He began his career in viticulture by tagging alongside his grandfather who was the vineyard manager for Napa Valley's renowned Chateau Montelena. Corey has a degree in Fermentation Science from U.C. Davis in California and joined the Coppola family wine business in 1998 as an assistant winemaker, eventually becoming CEO and Chief Winemaker in 2018. Corey and his team have created a strong grower relations program with more than 150 growers, and are regarded as leaders in the wine industry for their innovative and engaging approach.

Following along these lines, Francis and Eleanor Coppola have long supported sustainability throughout their lives and many business endeavours in an effort to preserve the land for generations to come. The have constantly searched for innovative ways to implement environmentally responsible practices into the vineyards and winemaking techniques to improve efficiency, minimize environmental impacts, and create a nurturing habitat for wildlife, on-site staff, and visiting guests. Some of these initiatives include reducing energy use, while currently 36% of the energy sourced from renewable sources. In the vineyard, Coppola has implemented leading water conservation practices which includes aerial imagery, weather stations, soil monitoring probes, smart scheduling, and drip irrigation, while reducing water usage and recycling water in every aspect of their operations. The winery was certified sustainable through the California Sustainable Wine-growing Alliance in 2012, while the whole business was 100% certified sustainable in 2019. Sustainability efforts are also extended throughout their network of growers.

Like the 2018 Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Red Blend that I enjoyed last year, both of these wines are from Coppola's Diamond Collection range and inspired by the oldest bottle in the portfolio - the Claret. The Diamond Collection represents quality, consistency, and authenticity. The range has expanded to more than 15 wines, showcasing grapes sourced from high quality vineyards situated along the coast and inland valleys across California. By combining carefully selected fruit with precise winemaking techniques, the Diamond Collections aims to capture the pure expression of each varietal.

Although both wines reviewed below are labelled as a varietal wine because each is composed of at least 75% of the variety mentioned on the label, each wine is in fact a blend. It is interesting that Petite Sirah is common between both wines. Let's see how these red wines from California are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION BLUE LABEL MERLOT 2018 - California, USA (#595686) (XD) - $24.95
A blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Petite Sirah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from grapes grown across California and aged for 13 months in French and American oak. The intriguing, medium+ intensity nose is savoury with cocoa, nutty, earthy woodspice, and dried herb aromas which surround a core of black fruit. On the lush, dry, medium-bodied palate it is dry with fresh dark berry fruit, blackberry, plum, oak spice, and chocolate flavours supported by fresh acidity and smooth, supple tannins. Very good length on the fresh, savoury and dried herb finish. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

FRANCIS COPPOLA DIAMOND COLLECTION RED LABEL ZINFANDEL 2019 - California, USA (#708289) (D) - $24.95
This blend of 87% Zinfandel and 13% Petite Sirah was sourced from old vines in Amador County and cooler sites in Paso Robles and Sonoma, and aged for 10 months in French oak. The medium+ intensity nose is ripe and somewhat jammy and raisiny with brambly berry, sweet spices and vanilla aromas. It's medium-full bodied with just a kiss of sweetness on the spicy palate with ripe, brambly dark berry, and savoury woodspice flavours. Tangy on the mid-palate with fresh, juicy acidity, and dusty textured, fine-grained tannins. Savoury and earthy with brambly dark berry tones lingering on the finish, with very good length. A widely appealing, recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Francis Ford Coppola can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Calcu Winemaker's Selection Blend 2018 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent five-grape blend led by Cabernet Franc that is sustainably crafted from Chile. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the LCBO VINTAGES May Cellar Collection (formerly Classics) and is available for purchase directly from VINTAGES Shop Online.

It is produced by Calcu Vineyards, a special and unique project that was established by the Hurtado family in 2003. The Hurtado family has over a century's worth of experience making quality wines in the Colchagua Valley and found a unique place in Marchigüe, within the Colchagua Valley in central Chile that is marked by hills of granite stone. This hill is the inspiration for the name Calcu Vineyards - "CAL: Hill" and "CUrá: Stone".

One of the fundamental pillars of the Hurtado family business is the passion for the pursuit of excellence. This is reflected in each of their wines and implemented by each member of the viticultural and winemaking team in the pursuit of excellence through precision viticulture and winemaking that accurately reflects the character of Calcu Vineyards in Marchigüe. Calcu Vineyards and the historic Viña Maquis share a winery in Palmilla, in the Colchagua Valley, for vinifying and ageing their wines. This winery was built in 2002, a year prior to the establishment of Calcu, under a sustainable concept by using gravity-flow technology to gently move the fruit and juice throughout the winery. The facility also uses geothermal energy for its wine production and is the only winery of its kind in Chile.

Sustainability is also a core value of the Hurtado family. They care for the environment, workers, and local community. One such example is the small vineyard blocks with short rows which were intentionally planted this way so that it minimizes soil erosion, while the sloping rows help reduce the risk of accidents for farm workers. The vineyards were also planted with extra care devoted to respecting natural rock formations, clay deposits, and native trees; 4,500 plants were also planted in ravines near the vineyards to increase biodiversity and protect endangered native species.

With this red wine blend, Calcu seeks to rediscover Colchagua Valley from the exceptional terroir in Marchigüe, a town and commune located in the province of Cardenal Caro, a few kilometres from the Pacific coast. The vineyard here has a unique architecture that was designed by hand to craft world-class wines that faithfully reflect the terroir, with deep care for the winegrowing and natural landscape. A blend that changes every year, this particular vintage is composed of 38% Cabernet Franc, 25% Carmenere, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot.

The grapes were grown in Calcu's own vineyards in Marchigüe on gentle hills where it is influenced by the sea breeze in the afternoon and at night, which helps moderate temperatures to produce particularly fresh grapes. The soils are primarily granitic with some important clay content, but poor in organic matter which helps to obtain low yields, delivering power, structure, and elegance to the wines. The grapes were manually harvested and selected in bunches, and then fermented in stainless steel tanks. It was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.

The 2018 growing season in Chile was somewhat cool during spring and early summer, resulting in a harvest that was a little later than normal. This helped deliver grapes with great freshness, outstanding elegance, and natural balance with round and delicate tannins. With dry weather during the ripening phase, the grapes were very healthy with developed impressive concentration. From an exceptional vintage that is described as the year of finesse, let's see how this 2018 red wine from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CALCU WINEMAKER'S SELECTION BLEND 2018 - Sustainable, Colchagua Valley, Chile (#28585) (XD) - $43.00
A blend of 38% Cabernet Franc, 25% Carmenere, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, and 4% Petit Verdot, it is elegantly fresh and fragrant on the nose with lovely, complex aromas of crushed red and black berry, currant, cassis, floral and fine oak spices with touches of dried herbs and stony mineral. On the full-ish bodied, warming palate it has well-structured and velvety smooth tannins along with fresh, juicy acidity that supports the ripe red and black berry, cassis, currant, smoky oak, mineral, and dried herbal flavours on a well-structured frame. Impressive depth and complexity. Some tannic grippiness on the back palate. Savoury with mineral and smoky oak notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoy over coming 10 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Calcu Vineyards can be ordered through their Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits.

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Nativ Bicento Irpinia Campi Taurasini 2018 (Campania) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2013 Nativ Bicento over four years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest edition of this terrific old vine wine from Campania that arrived at the LCBO today in the May 13 Online & Flagship Exclusives New Release Collection.

It is produced by Vini Nativ, a winery founded in 2008 on the slopes of the immaculate hills of Taurasi, in the heart of Irpinia, within the commune of Paternopoli, in the Province of Avellino, and region of Campania in southern Italy. It was formed by Dr. Mario Ercolino, an internationally renowned Oenologist, and Dr. Roberta Pirone, a Specialist in Food Science. Together, they aim to produce wines of excellence resulting from the important and deep experiences in their fields. They also aim to produce wines typical of the territory, in particular Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Aglianico, and (like tonight's wine) Aglianico of Taurasi.

The vines for their wines are grown across 15 hectares of precious vineyards spread out between Paternopoli and Taurasi, on soils that are well-known for their fertility thanks to their volcanic origins. The name "Nativ" represents the origin of the Viticulture of Irpina, through an autochthonous production of grapes which outlines the concept of "original of the place”, and carried out through the production of wines coming from grapes typical of the territory. Each Nativ wine has a unique and unequivocal character, as it is produced through innovative winemaking methods, while respecting tradition, and always keeping the organoleptic structure of the grape unaltered. Nativ has several ranges of wines in their portfolio, with this red wine part of their top Cru range. The engine that drives the company is the love and respect for the terroir and vine, and it is the realization of a profession, way of living, and doing business.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Aglianico of Taurasi. It gets its name "Bicento", which translates literally to "twice 100", or two-hundred, because the grapes were grown on 200-year-old ungrafted vines. The vines are planted on volcanic soils situated in the hills of Taurasi, 500 metres above sea level. After hand-harvesting the grapes at the end of October, the grapes were transported to the winery and lightly pressed and macerated in steel silos. After fermentation, the wine was aged in new 225 hectolitre French oak barrels for 12 to 18 months.

The growing season during the 2018 vintage was quite problematic in Campania due to a cold winter, plentiful rain, and some hail in spring, with late summer heat helping speed up ripening. The harvest was also very small in size. Let's see how this Aglianico of Taurisini from Campania is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

NATIV BICENTO IRPINIA CAMPI TAURASINI 2018 - DOC, Campania, Italy (#575035) (D) - $44.95
100% Aglianico from 200 year-old vines, this has a clean, fragrant, and open nose that is highly aromatic with spicy notes layered over ripe dark berries, plum, and milk chocolate aromas. It's full-bodied, dense, and well-structured with ripe dark berries, black cherry, peppery spice, with savoury touches of earth, cedary oak flavours. There's a kiss of sweetness due to the ripe fruit flavours, but it comes off as dry due to the high, structured acidity. It has well-structured, mildly grippy tannins, while cedary oak, mocha chocolate, earth, and some minerality notes linger on the long, dry finish, with excellent length. Will provide pleasure now and over the next 10 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93+ pts

Other fine wines by Vini Nativ can be ordered through their Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits.

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