Aganis Di Flabe Ribolla Gialla 2023 (Friuli) - Wine Review

With the first day of Spring arriving a couple of days ago, tonight's white wine review is a lovely Ribolla Gialla, a brand-new wine that arrived at LCBO outlets last weekend in the March 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Aganis Wine Company, a new winery project formed in 2022 by three brothers - Simone, Fabio, and Alessio Cecchetto. The Cecchetto brothers and their family are not new to the wine industry, as they also own the Treviso-based Ca' di Rajo family farm. Situated within the commune of Treppo Grande, Udine, in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the name 'Aganis' is a tribute to the territory and is a dialect term for 'agane', female figures from Alpine mythology that are particularly well-known in Carnia, Friuli. Aganis is located at the foot of the Carnia peaks, near San Daniele. It is here that the brothers want to create an entrance to the Carnic Valleys where passersby can stop and contemplate nature and offer a sensory escape to those visiting Cormor botanical park, riding the Alpe Adria Cycle Route, or the nearby horse trail.

The essence of Aganis are the Friulian wines of Collio Orientale. While they seek to be pragmatic, they also want to speak from the heart and convey emotions, sensations, and memories that evoke the nuances and scents of Collio Friulano. The company's philosophy places the enhancement of the Friulian territory and culture at the centre of its business, with a modern and sustainable approach. Their aim is to convey the authenticity of Friuli, while also speaking through their wines, so wine drinkers can experience Friuli's perpetual spring, when the sun warms the skin, and life is eager to begin a new season.

Aganis' focus for the future is the environment and sustainability. The area surrounding the winery represents a treasure that must be protected by implementing integrated pest management protocols. Furthermore, the exploitation of soil and the reckless use of chemicals threaten the ecological balance of the ecosystem of the hills that Aganis is a part of. Some of Aganis' sustainable initiatives include the reduction in pesticides, innovation in the management of cellar operations, recovering and re-using waste water, and increasing energy efficiency through the installation of a photovoltaic system.

This white wine is crafted using Ribolla Gialla, an indigenous white grape variety that represents Friuli. It is named 'Di Flabe', which means 'fairytale-like' in Friulian, and fully reflects the world of Aganis, magic, and legend, while also enhancing freshness and immediacy. The grapes were grown in the slim Friuli Colli Orientali DOC in the northeastern corner of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, between 200–250 metres above sea level. The soil in this area is called Ponca, and consists of alternating layers of marl (calcareous clays), which absorbs water and is texturally soft, and sandstone (calcified sands), which is hard and impervious. The vines were trained using a double overturned and Guyot system. After harvesting the grapes in September, they were softly pressed and fermented at 15–17°C with selected yeasts. For maturation, 20% of the wine was aged in barriques for 4 months.

The 2023 growing season in Italy was the warmest year ever recorded in Italy. In Friuli, it began with a very warm March that was warmer than average, followed by a chill in April. May was wet throughout, which led to a step-up in the fight against downy and mildew. In July, temperatures continued to be high, while rains did not let up, and included two bouts of hail. From a complicated vintage where the lessons on the importance of prevention were paramount, let's see how this 2023 Ribolla Gialla from Friuli is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

AGANIS DI FLABE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2023 - DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy (#39744) (XD) - $22.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose is very pretty, evoking spring flowers layered over ripe lemon citrus, orchard fruit, apple, pear, white peach, and honeysuckle aromas, plus touches of ripe tropical fruit. It's medium+ bodied with good weight and concentration. Dry and slightly honeyed with lovely floral, lemon citrus, ripe apple-pear, and white peach flavours nuanced with mild spice and leesy notes adding savoury complexities. Fleshy and almost rich mouthfeel, acids are well-balanced and juicy. Gently spicy with citrus, orchard fruit, floral flavours tapering to leesy notes on the long finish. Ideal with fish, enjoy this highly recommended buy on any fine Spring day! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Aganis can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.