Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Niagara that was featured in the September 12 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the thematic on "Local Wines You'll Love" from Ontario. This wine is also a VINTAGES Essentials product that is always (and widely) available at LCBO outlets across the province.

Like the excellent 2023 Le Grand Clos Chardonnay and 2023 Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir wines I enjoyed a couple of weeks ago, this white wine is produced by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne (DLCJ), a unique joint-venture winery project that was first established in 2000. The goal of the project was to establish a 'domaine' in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula and produce ultra-premium Canadian VQA wines from Burgundy's classic grape varieties – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Le Clos Jordanne released its first wines in 2007, with Thomas Bachelder as the winemaker. While the project was paused in 2016, it was revived in 2019 by Arterra Wines Canada in a new partnership with Thomas. The signature style of cool-climate wines produced from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was also revived, along with the philosophies of low intervention and terroir expression. The wines of DLCJ are crafted using sustainable winemaking practices, with a focus on delivering the best and most authentic expression of Burgundian-style wines through the lens of Niagara terroir.

After years of nomadic winemaking, Domaine Le Clos Jordanne established a permanent home in 2024 by opening its doors at the former Angel's Gate property on the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula. Today, DLCJ uses innovative New World practices combined with time-honoured Burgundian techniques, such as harvesting and sorting the grapes by hand. Every step of the process, from vineyard to bottle, receives careful consideration. Alongside Thomas, the winemaking team consists of Phillip Brown (Associate Winemaker) and Kerri Crawford (Assistant Winemaker).

First crafted in the 2019 vintage, the Jordan Village Chardonnay is made with fruit from selected parcels in all three estate vineyards – Claystone Terrace, Le Clos Jordanne, and Talon Ridge – into one terroir blend. The older vines are now deeply rooted and produce exciting wines with clarity, intent, nobility, ageability, and a sense of place. While the Le Grand Clos Chardonnay offers a snapshot of a hyper-localized expression of place, the Jordan Village showcases place on a macro approach that captures Jordan's Escarpment region as a whole. The Claystone Terrace and Le Clos Jordanne vineyards are a mere two hundred metres apart from each other (near King St. and Jordan Rd.) on the first rise of the Twenty Mile Bench, while the Talon Ridge Vineyard is located on the final rise and at the top of the plateau of Vinemount Ridge (off 17th Ave. in Jordan Station). Although each of these vineyards provides its own special characteristics, there is a throughline that connects each vineyard and its blocks to each other and their shared home in Jordan.

For this vintage, this 100% Chardonnay is crafted with 38% Talon Ridge Vineyard, 37% Claystone Terrace Vineyard, and 25% Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard fruit. All the grapes were hand-picked when they felt the flavours were "there" – with thick skins, ripe, starting to soften, and in good sanitary condition. They wanted the seeds to be completely brown, an indicator of true phenolic ripeness. The grapes were manually sorted and gently whole-cluster pressed. After the juice (or 'must') settled in tank for a couple of days, the naturally clear juice was allowed to start wild yeast fermentation in tank before being transferred into 228 L French oak barrels (approximately 20% new) to complete the long and slow fermentation. The wine remained in barrels for 20+ months, after which it underwent malolactic fermentation. The barrels chosen for Domaine Le Clos Jordanne wines are specifically selected to deliver and express the terroir of the wines, not mask it. Each lot is tasted systematically, barrel-by-barrel, over the course of many months, and only those truly representative of the terroir of each individual parcel are selected, blended, and then bottled and aged for a minimum of six months prior to release.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was a classic vintage with no major curve balls. It began with a slightly mild winter followed by a relatively warm spring, which resulted in early bud break. Summer was classical, with occasional heatwaves followed by big thunderstorms, which meant being vigilant in the vineyard. Harvest was hard and fast, with a beautiful, dry, and warm fall. From a great vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE CHARDONNAY 2023 - VQA West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20455) (XD) - $30.00
Screw cap enclosure. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe golden apple, pear, lemon, and melon aromas nuanced with vanilla, butter, and spice, plus whiffs of flinty mineral and mealy notes. Quite complex. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied, creamy palate it has lovely ripe apple, lemon, vanilla, buttered toast, and sweet spice flavours, plus some earthy minerality that appears on the mid-palate. It is good structure with fresh, juicy, and mouth-watering acidity. Savoury with earthy and flinty mineral notes linger on the long, and very juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

A few other wines by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery or through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2023 and Pinot Noir 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, premium wines from Niagara that arrived as part of the feature on "Local Wines You'll Love" from Ontario in the recent September 12 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne (DLCJ), a unique Franco-Canadian winery project that was established in 2000 as a partnership between the Boisset Family in Burgundy and Ontario-based Vincor Canada. The goal of this joint venture was to establish a 'domaine' in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula and produce ultra-premium Canadian VQA wines from Burgundy's classic grape varieties – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The first wines were introduced to the marketplace in 2007, with Thomas Bachelder as the original winemaker. He developed the brand's signature style around cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, low intervention, and terroir expression. The wines were crafted using sustainable winemaking practices, with a focus on delivering the best and most authentic expression of Burgundian-style wines through the lens of Niagara terroir. This approach led to international recognition and critical acclaim.

In 2016, the original Le Clos Jordanne project was paused before being revived in 2019 by Arterra Wines Canada in a new partnership with Thomas. After years of nomadic winemaking, the brand established a permanent home in 2024 by opening the Domaine Le Clos Jordanne winery at the former Angel's Gate property on the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula. Today, DLCJ uses innovative New World practices combined with time-honoured Burgundian techniques, such as harvesting and sorting the grapes by hand. Every step of the process, from vineyard to bottle, receives careful consideration. Alongside Thomas, the winemaking team consists of Phillip Brown (Associate Winemaker) and Kerri Crawford (Assistant Winemaker).

These wines form Le Clos Jordanne's top-tier "Le Grand Clos" range, which is their mission to hone in on the "filet mignon" of the Clos Jordanne vineyard and their finest expression of the Jordan Bench terroir. Le Clos Jordanne's estate vineyard is located about 14 km east of the winery on a premium parcel of the Jordan Bench, on the first rise from the plain, a natural plateau near the slope of the Niagara Escarpment. The vineyard features limestone-laced silt and clay glacial soils, which are known for bringing intensely focused fruit, minerality, and ageability to the resulting wines. Both the Le Grand Clos Chardonnay and Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir come from blocks located on the western side of the vineyard – a happenstance of aspect, altitude, drainage, and geology. The Chardonnay is from Block 1, while the Pinot Noir is from Blocks 3 and 7.

The vineyards are farmed both traditionally and sustainably in order to preserve the natural balance of the vines and maintain the parcel's terroir specifics and quality of fruit. Each vine is tended to by hand, from pruning through to harvest, with the vines pruned to either a single- or double-Guyot cane system. Some of the tasks in the vineyard include leaf stripping, which takes place on the eastern side of the vine, exposing the clusters to more sun and airflow, promoting healthy ripening and helping to prevent disease. The soil in the vineyard is managed to nurture and maintain a natural level of microbiological life. Every other row is cultivated, alternating yearly, leaving a varied cover crop in the remaining rows. This creates competition in the root system while allowing the topsoil to remain loose and aerobic. Each year, every second row of the soil is broken up (deep-ripped) in order to aerate the soil structure and help avoid compaction.

To craft this Chardonnay, hand-harvesting began slowly and meticulously on October 7, picking only the best bunches. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed, and the full tank of free-run juice was racked into French oak barrels, where it would remain for the next 18 months. The juice underwent wild yeast fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation on its lees. During this process, Thomas, Kerri, and Phillip would go through each individual barrel, watching the process slowly unfold, and nearing the end of élevage, a selection of 33 barrels, seven of them being first fills, were blended and bottled.

To craft this Pinot Noir, the grapes were hanging beautifully with thick skins and great flavours when it was decided to hand-harvest on October 2 due to unseasonably warm weather and a heatwave in the short-range forecast. After hand-sorting and destemming, the grapes were placed into multiple fermentation tanks, separated by individual blocks, and allowed to naturally warm as the wild yeast began the fermentation process. After about a month, with daily pump-overs or punch-downs, the ferment was complete and the free-run wine was placed into 48 barrels, a combination of both first-fill and previous-fill barrels. After a fairly long period of ageing in barrel, the final wine was selected from 19 barrels, four of them being first fills, and then blended and bottled.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was a pretty classic vintage for the region, with no major curveballs. It began with a slightly mild winter followed by a warm spring, which meant early budbreak. Summer featured occasional heatwaves, along with big thunderstorms, which meant vigilant viticultural practices were needed. Harvest time arrived hard and fast with a beautiful, dry, and warm fall, with all the grapes harvested and processed within a very short 22-day window, ending on October 24. There were a handful of extra-long days and a few sleepless nights, but the passionate crew worked tirelessly to give the fruit and wines the attention and love they demanded and deserved. From a great vintage, let's see how these 2023 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

DOMAINE LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS CHARDONNAY 2023 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#184549) (XD) - $55.00
Screw cap. Lovely, rich, and layered aromas of medium-high intensity deliver perfectly ripe apple and pear notes nuanced with vanilla, citrus, oak spice, butter, and mealy complexity. On the dry, full-bodied palate it is rich and flavourful with lovely orchard fruit and stone fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, and melon joined by oak spice, vanilla, and butter flavours in a complex profile. Impressively textured with an almost chalky mouthfeel. Some leesy notes add further complexity on the mid-palate. Lemon citrus and apple notes taper to savoury with leesy mineral, gentle oak spice, and vanilla notes on the exceptionally long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93+ pts

DOMAINE LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS PINOT NOIR 2023 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#184564) (XD) - $55.00
Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose has crushed ripe raspberry and spice aromas with oak accents, plus whiffs of black cherry, earthy mushroom, beet root, and clove add complexity. The weighty, medium+ bodied has a nice, chalky textured mouthfeel and fresh acidity. It's dry and ripe with delicious dark raspberry, earthy mushroom, beet root, oak spice flavours, plus some notes of clove , white pepper, and stony mineral. It has grainy, chalky textured tannins with good structure and tension. Dark raspberry and spice notes taper to savoury, stony minerals on the long, chalky textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

A couple of wines by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne are available as VINTAGES Essentials at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara or through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Tapiz Alta Collection San Pablo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, high-altitude, single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the Uco Valley that was featured as a Hand-Picked Gift in the recent August 29 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the lovely 2023 Tapiz Alta Collection San Pablo Vineyard Malbec I enjoyed a few months ago, this red wine is produced by Fincas Patagónicas, one of Argentina's most prominent wine producers. Fincas Patagónicas was established in 2003 by Patricia Ortiz with the goal of crafting exceptional wines from Argentina's most distinctive terroirs. The winemaking philosophy combines traditional methods with innovative techniques to create wines from high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza and along the Atlantic coast of Patagonia that truly express the unique terroir of each region.

Fincas Patagónicas has three winery projects in Argentina — Zolo, Tapiz, and Wapisa. Tapiz is located in the heart of the San Pablo Geographical Indication (GI), within the Tunuyán department of the Uco Valley, Mendoza. Situated at 4,600 feet above sea level, the estate is home to one of Mendoza's highest-elevation vineyards. At Tapiz, sustainable winemaking traditions are combined with modern innovation at its state-of-the-art winery, which was constructed in 2016 and is surrounded by estate vineyards. Under Patricia's guidance, Tapiz has been a pioneer in the region and played a role in the development of the San Pablo GI. The San Pablo GI benefits from extremes of altitude, temperature, and soil heterogeneity, allowing for the creation of full-bodied and concentrated wines that are also elegant and balanced.

Tapiz is committed to environmentally conscious practices and to producing wines that faithfully express their unique terroir. Today, the wines are crafted by the celebrated winemaking team of Fabián Valenzuela and famed Bordeaux winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, who was the winemaker at Pétrus for 44 vintages. The name "Tapiz" is Spanish for tapestry, and the label and capsule depict the different components that come together to create wine, including high-altitude fruit, the land, the sun, and the workers. Thus, Tapiz represents a beautiful tapestry of terroir and innovation. Through her wineries, Patricia is also dedicated to giving back to the environment through sustainable practices while encouraging responsible practices among staff, suppliers, and customers.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the San Pablo Vineyard surrounding the winery. The estate vineyard is situated at 4,600 feet above sea level, and the 16-year-old vines were sustainably farmed. To vinify the wine, the grapes underwent a cold pre-maceration at 8˚C for 5 days to extract colour and aromas. The wine was then fermented in stainless steel tanks at approximately 28˚C for 14 days before resting on its lees for 16 days. It was subsequently aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, with 15% of the barrels being first-use and the remainder second- and third-use.

The 2023 vintage in Argentina was defined by multiple frosts, which greatly reduced yields in most parts of the country. However, higher-elevation sites with natural slopes fared better as the cold air moved to lower areas. Spring eventually turned warm and dry, leading to the hottest Argentine summer since 1961 and historic drought conditions. With lighter fruit loads, the grapes ripened more quickly than average, resulting in an earlier harvest. Despite the heat and drought, the low yields concentrated flavours, while the dry conditions kept disease at bay. From a vintage with high expectations for red wines from high-altitude vineyards, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Uco Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TAPIZ ALTA COLLECTION SAN PABLO VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#403345) (XD) - $20.95
The medium-high intensity nose offers ripe black fruits, blackberry, black plum, and cedar oak aromas followed hints of black currant, cassis, and grilled herbs. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate has delicious, ripe black fruits, black currant, blackberry, black plum, and oak spice flavours, along with touches of graphite, and grilled herbs. It has clean, fresh acidity, alongside finely textured and firm tannins with good structure that will benefit from a few years in the cellar. It's well-balanced throughout with black currant, cassis, and cedar oak notes, plus hints of graphite lingering on the long, slightly youthful finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

The aforementioned Malbec is available at the LCBO, along with another Malbec, while the full range of Fincas Patagónicas wines can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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Domaine Welty Bélénus Gewürztraminer 2023 (Alsace) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful, organic, and off-dry Gewürztraminer from Alsace that made its debut at the LCBO last month. It arrived as part of the feature on Great Wines for Takeout Nights in the August 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and would be ideal for pairing with spicy dishes such as Thai or Indian curries.

It is produced by Domaine Welty, a small, family-run winery situated in the commune of Orschwihr in southern Alsace, at the foot of the Bollenberg hill. The family's story began when M. Welty planted her first vines in 1738 on the dry and arid hills of the Bollenberg. Eight generations later, the Welty family continues with the same faith and passion, with a beautiful family history that binds them strongly to the land, vineyard, and wine.

The modern era of Domaine Welty began in 1984, when Jean-Michel took over management of the estate from his father, Fernand. As the seventh generation of the family, Jean-Michel gradually doubled the vineyard size to what is now 14 hectares of vines. In 2012, Jean-Michel was joined by his son, Jérémy, who represented the eighth generation of the family and brought a wind of freshness to the domaine, including new ideas and cultivation techniques – specifically organic agriculture. In 2018, the domaine received its Organic Farming certification, while Jérémy also took over winemaking responsibilities. In 2021, Jérémy took over the domaine from his father.

Since the beginning, the Welty family's daily work has been guided by their conviction that nature will give them what they have given it. Every day they apply with passion and fervor the principles of organic farming, observing the virtues that it generates in the vineyard. Additionally, by cultivating their vines organically, they have gained a better understanding of the vineyard. They have also begun implementing new processes, in particular developing decoctions in order to carry out homeopathic vine treatments. Today, the philosophy at Domaine Welty has evolved strongly in order to listen to nature, respect it, understand it, and seek balance. This allows the family to produce the most natural wines possible, along with the purest expression of their terroir.

Domaine Welty has several ranges of wines, with this particular wine coming from their "Blancs de Terroir" range, a group of terroir-driven white wines. It is crafted using 100% Gewürztraminer that was organically grown on clay-limestone soils. The name Bélénus is associated with the Bollenberg hill near the domaine's vineyards. Belenus (or Belenos) was an ancient Celtic deity whose name is generally associated with brightness, light, and the sun, making the name a fitting reference to the dry Bollenberg hill and its excellent exposure to the sun.

To craft this Gewürztraminer, the grapes were hand-harvested and placed in small crates. Upon arriving at the winery, the whole grapes were direct-pressed using a pneumatic press, and then fermented using indigenous yeasts in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature. It was matured on fine lees until bottling.

The growing season in Alsace in 2023 began with a dry and mild winter, followed by a cool and wet March, which pushed budburst beyond the reach of early April frosts. While April remained wet and cool, May brought summer warmth, particularly towards the end of the month, followed by flowering and significant heat during the first two weeks of June. Gewürztraminer fared well in the weather conditions as July remained warm and dry, however, drought was becoming problematic. The end of July and early August was cooler and wetter, while dry heat arrived towards the end of the month. Due to the dry conditions, phenolic maturity was unusually ahead of sugar maturity, which resulted in harvest taking place a little bit later than anticipated. From another excellent vintage (8th out of the last 9 years), let's see how this 2023 Gewürztraminer from Alsace is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE WELTY BÉLÉNUS GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2023 - AOC Alsace, France (#49863) (M) - $25.95
This organic Gewürztraminer from Alsace has a lovely, intense, medium-high to highly aromatic nose with perfumed aromas of lychee, rose floral, yellow fruit, and citrus with touches of spice. The rich, weighty, medium-full bodied palate has very good concentration with lovely lychee, rose floral, citrus, yellow fruit, and spice replays in an off-dry flavour profile. It's framed by fresh, lively acidity that tempers the sweetness. Clean and well-balanced throughout with leesy, mineral, and spice notes lingering on the long, savoury, and textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Welty can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, organic GSM blend from the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of the Southern Rhône Valley. It arrived at the LCBO in the August 15th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and was featured as a Great Wine for Takeout Night, ideally paired with takeout burgers.

It is produced by Domaines Richard, a winemaking family passionate about wine since 1892. The Richard family's expertise has been passed down through the generations and is rooted in the constant pursuit of perfection from vine to glass. Since 1960, the Richard family has drawn inspiration from the major wine regions of the Rhône Valley, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais to craft wines with many expressions that reflect the richness and diversity of their grape varieties.

In 1985, Domaines Richard acquired Château La Nerthe, a historic and renowned estate situated in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In 1994, Domaine de la Renjarde was acquired and would go on to become Les Cassagnes de La Nerthe, just 15 km north of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The vineyards of Les Cassagnes are situated in the named village appellation of Massif d'Uchaux, and are composed of three terraces, the highest of which overlaps with the surrounding Mediterranean forest, while garrigue (thyme, rosemary, laurels, evergreen oaks, olive trees, and genista) is found everywhere.

The Les Cassagnes vineyards are made up of 50 hectares in Sérignan-du-Comtat, along with another 20 hectares in Mondragon that were acquired a short time ago. While these two vineyards share proximity and similarities, they are also complementary. The historic vineyard in Sérignan-du-Comtat is situated at the level of the Rhône River, only 70 metres above sea level, while the newly integrated plots in Mondragon are about 200 metres above sea level. In Sérignan-du-Comtat, the vineyard is a succession of large terraces, while in Mondragon it is a mosaic of 38 small plots with their own micro-terroirs, separated by wooded patches. While both vineyards are rich in red sands and siliceous clay, the Mondragon plots seem richer in limestone, with many flat white stones visible on the surface. The vines also seem to be planted directly on rock, a somewhat rare occurrence in the Southern Rhône Valley.

The philosophy at Les Cassagnes de La Nerthe is focused on nature. With a commitment to preserving the environment, terroir, health of consumers, and the teams, the Les Cassagnes vineyard has been certified organic since 2013. In nature, the synergy between the sown plants and the soil microorganisms allows restructuring and enrichment of the soils, especially in organic matter, which is beneficial to the cultivation of the vine. The abundance of plants on the ground also provides a refuge for birds, small rodents, small herbivores, and insects, which promotes a balanced ecosystem and natural regulation of certain insect pests of the vine. By implementing forest hedges, they believe this will help with climate change, keep the plots cool, and protect them from hard-blowing winds. They have also started having sheep graze in the vineyards.

This red wine is crafted using a blend of 55% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and 1% other varieties. The grapes were grown organically at La Nerthe's "Les Cassagnes" vineyards within the communes of Sérignan-du-Comtat and Mondragon. The vineyards are planted at altitudes up to 182 metres above sea level, featuring multiple microclimates and soils composed of poor sand, clay, and calcareous rocks that provide natural filtration. The name Les Cassagnes means oak trees and refers to the green oak forest that surrounds the vineyards.

To vinify this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyard. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were lightly crushed, with several daily pump-overs, to gently extract colour and tannins. The three main varieties were co-fermented over a long maceration of 3–4 weeks. After fermentation, the final blend was aged on fine lees in stainless steel tanks for 12 months before bottling.

In 2023, the growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a dry and windy winter with episodes of Mistral winds, followed by a wet spring with rain that provided the water needed for the growing period. While summer temperatures were hot, water stress was not critical and there was no disease in the vineyards. A final strong heatwave led to harvest beginning at the end of August and ending at the beginning of October, with the end results being generous red grapes that produced lovely, balanced wines. From a good vintage for vines grown on clay soils beneath rolled pebbles in the Southern Rhône, let's see how the 2023 Côtes du Rhône-Villages red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA NERTHE LES CASSAGNES CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#494674) (XD) - $27.95
Organic blend of 55% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and 1% other varieties. Elegant, gently perfumed aromas of medium-high intensity rise out of the glass with black raspberry, garrigue, strawberry, cherry, and peppery spice aromas flecked with stony minerals and scorched earth. The mid-weighted, slighty warm palate is dry and ripe with lovely black raspberry, garrigue, plum, cherry, strawberry, peppery spice, stony mineral, and earthy flavours in a complex profile. Acids are well-balanced, while the smooth, refined tannins have a somewhat creamy mouthfeel that leads to a supple, fine-grained, and gently chalky textured back palate. Red berry, garrigue, and peppery spice notes taper to stony mineral and savoury earth on the long, balanced, and very satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Extremely limited quantities of other fantastic wines by Château La Nerthe are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Côtes du Rhône blend of Grenache and Syrah that arrived at the LCBO at the beginning of the month in the August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Xavier Vins, a Rhône wine producer that was established in the late 20th century by Xavier Vignon, a renowned and pioneering Rhône oenologist. Xavier caught the wine bug after a chance encounter with an oenologist while studying in the faculty of pharmacy in the Champagne capital of Reims. This led to Xavier gaining valuable experience at several Champagne houses and marked the beginning of his journey into wine. In 2002, Xavier Vignon began making and marketing his own wines under the name Xavier Vins.

The philosophy at Xavier Vins is based on a creative approach that is original, unusual, and daring. Having spent time in both Champagne and Bordeaux, Xavier developed strong values around the freedom of blending and the notion of beginning with an idea before embarking upon the creation of a wine. Naturally, each year will be different and a source of surprise. The combination of different grape varieties in a blend can impart complexity while also enhancing the expression of terroir. To create a faithful expression of wine, Xavier works with a wide range of ingredients, including grapes, terroirs, parcels, exposures, altitudes, vintages, wooden vessels, and stainless-steel vessels. With his in-depth knowledge of each and every part of the Rhône Valley, Xavier uses this knowledge to select the soil, parcel, and varietal combinations needed to create a loyal and harmonious wine.

Xavier believes that wines are always the result of contrary or complementary unions, and that bringing together these different entities can give the best possible result. Therefore, each cuvée is a unique experience and an expression of a vintage, varietal, or terroir. The wines of Xavier Vignon are a source of emotion, guided by the pleasure of sharing, and an invitation not only to dream but also to better understand the landscapes of the Rhône Valley, which he holds so close to his heart. Xavier strives to capture this little part of the southern Rhône in the bottle, encapsulating its aromas, colours, and textures, with the ultimate aim of making people happy!

I last enjoyed the 2020 Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône nearly four years ago, when it was a blend of primarily Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support. This vintage is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, elaborated from very old vines ranging from 45 to 100 years of age, and the wine is from Xavier Vins' "The Originals" collection. The grapes were selected from more than 250 parcels, mainly located in the southern Rhône, from a diverse range of terroirs consisting of clay, pebbles, limestone, and sandy soils. To craft this wine, the grapes were manually harvested, with harvest dates determined by daily berry tasting. It was fermented at moderate temperatures to favour gentle diffusion of aromatic compounds. 80% of the blend underwent a short period of ageing in concrete vats to enhance the aromas, while the remainder was aged in wooden truncated-cone vats.

The growing season in 2023 began with a very dry start from January to March, which resulted in a relatively late budburst in early April, while the Mistral winds blew frequently during the period between budburst and flowering—precisely when growers would have preferred calmer conditions. Welcoming rains fell in May and June, followed by a warm and arid summer, which climaxed at 43°C in late August and led to some grapes suffering from sunburn and maturation issues. However, rainfall at the end of August allowed the vines to recover and the grapes to resume ripening. In September, the weather cooled with substantial diurnal temperature variation, which helped retain aromatics and acidity, while harvest took place during an Indian summer and continued into mid-October for the red varieties. Coming from a good vintage for vines grown on clay soils beneath rolled pebbles in the southern Rhône, let's see how the 2023 Côtes du Rhône red is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2023 - AOP, France (#297317) (XD) - $19.95
A 70/30 blend of Grenache and Syrah from very old vines ranging from 45 to 100 years old. This has a lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of both black & red fruits, white pepper spice, black raspberry, dark red cherry, garrigue, plum, and savoury herb aromas with meaty undertones and touches of scorched earth and stony mineral in a complex profile. On the dry, medium to medium-full bodied palate it has lovely black raspberry, dark red cherry, garrigue, meaty, peppery spice, savoury herbs, scorched earth, and mineral flavours supported by fresh and juicy acidity. Smooth, supple, and elegant tannins have a very gentle grip on the back palate. Savoury herbs with black raspberry, scorched earth, and mineral notes linger on the long, well-balanced finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 4–5 years! Score: 90 pts

A few wines by Xavier Vignon are available in various quantities, while the full range be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Featherstone Blanc de Noirs 2023 and Reserve Stone & Vine 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely, premium wines that were just released by Featherstone Estate Winery. Both of these wines are only available direct through the winery in Niagara, including their online shop.

Featherstone is an award-winning and eco-friendly winery situated in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench appellation in Niagara. It was established in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, David Johnson. In February 2024, in the midst of its 25th anniversary, Featherstone underwent a transformative change in ownership and is now owned by philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

The history of the Featherstone vineyard began in the 1970s when the first vines were planted. The grapes were sold to a large wine conglomerate until 1999, when the first Featherstone wines were made. Featherstone has thriving Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc vines planted in 1986, as well as Riesling vines dating to 1978, which are among the oldest Riesling vines in Niagara. Situated in Vineland, Ontario, Featherstone has 23 acres of rolling hills on the prestigious upper Twenty Mile Bench along the Niagara Escarpment in the Twenty Valley wine region of Niagara.

Since 1999, Featherstone has distinguished itself through insecticide-free and eco-friendly farming practices. The winery continues to farm naturally and without the use of insecticides while embracing sustainable winegrowing practices. It encourages biodiversity in an environment that is healthy and completely unique, believing that this individuality translates into its wines. In 2023, Featherstone received its Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification, assuring wine drinkers that the complete grape-to-glass cycle is sustainable.

The winemaking philosophy at Featherstone is based on the scientific and intuitive processes involved in grape growing and winemaking. The winery crafts wines that reflect both the character of the grapes and the artistry of the winemaker. Kevin Qin, who joined the Featherstone family in 2014, is the vineyard manager and head winemaker at Featherstone. He works throughout the growing season to enhance the grapes' natural attributes, ensuring that at harvest he can create exceptional, artisanally crafted wines with minimal winemaking embellishments. The team philosophy at Featherstone is based on the belief that a healthy team creates a healthy winery — investing in their people is just as important as investing in their vineyards. The winery also values work-life balance, provides a supportive workplace culture, and pays a living wage.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara ended up being a very good one thanks to a warm, dry autumn, which provided relief from the wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer. The extended growing season in Niagara contributed to the development of phenolic ripeness, concentrated flavours and complexity, along with ripe tannic structure, finesse, and juicy acidity. Let's see how these two wines from the 2023 vintage in Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

FEATHERSTONE BLANC DE NOIRS 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Traditional Method, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $34.95
100% Pinot Noir grown on heavy clay soil. Grapes were hand-picked in early September, sorted, and whole-cluster pressed. Primary fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks, with the wine remaining in tank until the beginning of February, after which it underwent tirage and was held on its lees for 24 months before disgorging. The medium-high intensity nose is toasty with strawberry, raspberry, and cherry aromas nuanced with citrus blossom, and leesy notes, plus touches of autolytic and reductive characters. The mid-weighted palate is dry and tangy with a delicious mix of citrus, strawberry, raspberry, red berry, mandarin, and toasty flavours supported by fresh and vibrant acidity, alongside crisp and refreshing bubbles. The mid-palate has a slightly creamy mouthfeel, while tangy citrus and red berry notes continue on the back palate, eventually joined by savoury, leesy notes on the long, crisp finish. This recommended buy is enjoyable now, but will reward ageing and should continue to drink well over the next 5-7 years. Score: 91 pts

FEATHERSTONE RESERVE STONE & VINE 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, VQA Ontario, Canada (XD) - $45.95
Blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon that were harvested over fifteen days beginning Oct. 26. Each component was individually fermented in their climate-controlled cellar, and included undergoing 100% malolactic fermentation. The Merlot was fermented and aged in French oak barrels, while the Cabernets were fermented and aged in American oak. The best individual barrels of each varietal were hand selected and then blended. Rich, concentrated, medium-high intensity nose features ripe dark berry fruit and fine oak spice aromas of blackberry, black plum, black currant, dark cherry, sandalwood, and wet earth with a slightly reductive character. The medium to medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with lovely, tangy dark fruited, black plum, blackberry, black currant, tobacco, sandalwood, oak spice, dried spice flavours, plus some mocha notes. It's framed by crisp and juicy acidity, alongside elegant tannins that are supple with a gently grippy mouthfeel. Tangy dark berry notes taper to savoury earth and mocha on the long, well-balanced finish. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 91 pts

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Jerzu Antichi Bantu Cannonau di Sardegna 2023 (Sardinia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cannonau di Sardegna (a.k.a. Garnacha/Grenache from Sardinia) that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO and was part of the feature on wines from Sardinia in the August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jerzu Antichi Poderi, one of Sardinia's historically significant co-operative wineries, with deep roots in the viticultural traditions of the region that go back to the 12th century. While the cooperative itself was formally established in 1950, when a group of 18 winegrowers came together with a shared passion for wine, its history is rooted in the generations of grape growers who cultivated the vineyards of Jerzu and passed their knowledge from one generation to the next.

Today, Antichi Poderi Jerzu is made up of 408 members, all committed to fuelling a history that continues to move forward. Together, the member families tend 460 hectares of vineyards across a territory spanning 593 km² in Sardinia, the rugged Mediterranean island off Italy's western coast. Their vineyards range in elevation from 30 metres to a fairly lofty 786 metres above sea level.

Sardinia offers an extraordinarily diverse combination of hills and plains, coastal regions and inland areas, with considerable variation in topography and mesoclimate. The combination of Mediterranean maritime influences, cooling breezes, varied elevations and diverse soils and bedrock—including free-draining sands and gravels—creates highly favourable conditions for viticulture. With centuries of French and Spanish influence, the island is home to many important indigenous and international varieties, with Cannonau and Vermentino among its most important and widely planted grapes.

Antichi Poderi Jerzu is situated within the commune of Jerzu, in the province of Ogliastra, on the eastern side of Sardinia. The rugged terrain between the coast and the mountains has a long association with viticulture, particularly Cannonau, the local name for the grape commonly known elsewhere as Grenache or Garnacha. In 1972, Cannonau di Sardegna received DOC status, with Jerzu becoming one of the denomination's historically important production areas.

The co-operative winery has also been actively involved in partnerships with authoritative and recognized institutes to deepen the understanding of its territory. These studies have resulted in the identification of nine distinct sub-areas within Jerzu, each with its own particular characteristics, helping the cooperative to develop a more nuanced collection of Cannonau di Sardegna wines that express the diversity of the local terroir.

As a specialist in Cannonau (and, to some extent, Vermentino), Jerzu Antichi Poderi produces a range of wines across five distinct wine ranges, with this Bantu coming from its Selezione range. The grapes for this 100% Cannonau were grown in the Jerzu area. The vines average 20 years of age and are planted on calcareous-schist soils at approximately 400 metres above sea level, with southwest exposure.

To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested when they reached an optimal balance between acidity and sugars, typically in mid-September. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were destemmed and crushed, followed by eight days of maceration in stainless-steel tanks. After fermentation, the wine remained in stainless steel for 10 months of maturation, followed by a further six months in 200 hL oak barrels in order to preserve the freshness of the fruit.

The climate in Sardinia can vary quite substantially depending on where you are located. In the northeastern part of the island, there was very little to no rain throughout the season, while the summer months were warm and arid, which resulted in an early and healthy harvest. Let's see how this 2023 Cannonau di Sardegna from Sardinia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JERZU ANTICHI BANTU CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA 2023 - DOC, Sardinia, Italy (#51716) (XD) - $19.95
100% Cannonau di Sardegna (a.k.a. Garnacha/Grenache). The lifted, medium-high intensity nose has plummy, wild berry, dark red cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate aromas mingling with rustic earth, Mediterranean herbs and spice notes. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and lively with fresh acidity lifting the spicy, peppery, wild berry, plum, Mediterranean herbs, cherry, earth, and pomegranate flavours. Pleasing bitter notes add a savoury component on the mid-palate, while the ripe and fine tannins have some youthful, chalky grip on the back palate. Nicely balanced flavours of spice, Mediterranean herbs, and wild berry taper to schisty minerals on the long, savoury finish. Quite unique and a recommended buy to enjoy over the coming 5 years! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Jerzu Antichi Poderi can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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Byron & Harold Rags to Riches Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 (Margaret River) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River in Western Australia and made its debut at the LCBO in the August 1 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Byron & Harold, a wine company that was founded in the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia in 2012 by Paul Byron and Harold (Ralph) Dunning. After a combined 60+ years in the fine wine business, Paul and Ralph came together to create Byron & Harold with a solemn pledge to find, package, and share the wine they love with all who share their appreciation of the romance, the history, the sheer pleasure fine wine brings to a shared meal.

Based in Western Australia, Byron & Harold focuses on producing wines from Margaret River and Great Southern, cool-climate winegrowing regions that benefit from their southerly latitudes and strong maritime influences. The winemaking philosophy at Byron & Harold begins in the vineyard as they seek out the best parcels of fruit in Western Australia in order to craft wines that wine lovers want to drink. Wines are crafted with flavours that are true to their variety and have provenance that reflects their origins.

Today, Margaret River is known for its outstanding viticulture, wine production, and international tourism, and as the leading wine region of Western Australia, it is respected and enjoys a reputation that is recognised around the world. Situated along the westerly coastal strip of southwestern Australia, Margaret River enjoys a Mediterranean-influenced maritime climate, with average annual rainfall of roughly 1,100 mm and the moderating influence of the Indian Ocean. The region's ideal winegrowing conditions include good winter rains to replenish soil moisture, warm summer days, long sunshine hours, and cooling sea breezes during the ripening period. This combination of maritime influences and diverse, well-drained soils helps produce consistently high-quality fruit with intense flavours.

This Cabernet Sauvignon is from Byron & Harold's "Rags to Riches" collection, a range of premium wines crafted using fruit from their vineyards in Margaret River. The name pays homage to the immigrants who arrived in Margaret River after the First World War. The Western Australian Government encouraged migrants to settle in the region and establish farms, and by 1922, more than 100 settlers had arrived. From humble beginnings and the challenges of carving out a living from the native bushland, Margaret River has evolved into one of Australia's—and the world's—most respected winegrowing regions, making the "Rags to Riches" name particularly fitting.

To craft this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the fruit was harvested during the cool hours of the early morning. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were delicately crushed into static fermenters and inoculated with cultured yeast to begin fermentation. To extract colour, flavour, and tannins, while also encouraging aeration, pump-overs were conducted twice daily. After fermentation was complete, the wine was aged in French oak barriques until September 2024. The various parcels were then blended in tank and allowed to settle before undergoing light fining and filtration prior to bottling.

The 2023 vintage in Margaret River featured optimal, dry conditions, and mild weather that allowed for gentle and consistent ripening across all varieties. Budburst and vine development were delayed by about two to three weeks due to lower-than-average winter temperatures, but good fruit set resulted in healthy, and ultimately higher, yields. Although the spring growing season started slowly, summer brought glorious conditions, with consistent warmth in January allowing vine development to catch up. Ideal ripening conditions, combined with minimal disease pressure, produced inky, dense, and intense Cabernet Sauvignons with very fine tannin structure. Described as a once-in-a-decade vintage of the highest quality, let's see how this 2023 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BYRON & HAROLD RAGS TO RICHES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Vegan, Margaret River, Western Australia (#50142) (XD) - $23.95
Screw cap enclosure. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has lovely, fragrant, and open aromatics of medium-high to high intensity featuring ripe black & red currants, grilled herbs, blackberry, black cherry, evergreen, smoky oak, graphite, and spice aromas with earthy undertones in a complex profile. On the dry, ripe, and medium-full bodied palate it has plummy, black currant, black cherry, blackberry, evergreen herbs, oak spice, graphite, and savoury earth flavours, all supported by fresh and juicy acidity. Smooth, ripe tannins have good structure and a slightly youthful mouthfeel. Well-balanced throughout with sweet fruit notes on the mid-palate leading to graphite, spice, and savoury earth on the long, balanced finish. Enjoy into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Byron & Harold can be ordered through their Agent - Kylix Wines.

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Cellier des Dauphins Réserve Côtes du Rhône 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Réserve Côtes du Rhône, a blend of Grenache and Syrah that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the July 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône (UVCdR), a co-operative winery founded in 1965 in the southeastern French region of Drôme Provençale by a group of local grower co-operatives. Today, UVCdR unites approximately 2,300 winegrowing families across the Southern Rhône Valley, cultivating more than 12,000 hectares of vineyards to produce wines from numerous Rhône Valley appellations, including several Crus.

As one of the Rhône Valley's largest wine producers, UVCdR has become one of the region's leading co-operative groups, with Cellier des Dauphins serving as its flagship brand. Introduced in 1967, Cellier des Dauphins has grown into one of the Rhône Valley's best-known wine brands, built on the co-operative values of its founding growers. The brand reflects a commitment to quality from vine to glass, while celebrating the collective spirit that has united generations of Rhône winegrowers. Its name—"Cellar of the Dolphins"—pays tribute to the historic Dauphiné region, which bordered the Rhône Valley in southeastern France.

In the vineyard, Cellier des Dauphins growers work their vineyards every day with concrete actions in favour of biodiversity. Their winegrowers have converted 3,000 hectares to High Environmental Value (HVE) certification, and 1,350 hectares to organic agriculture. Cellier des Dauphins is also committed to eco-design of packaging and is constantly seeking sustainable solutions to packaging, along with waste reduction and preserving natural resources.

I last enjoyed this delicious Rhône red when the 2019 Cellier des Dauphins Réserve landed at the LCBO five years ago, and while that vintage was predominantly (90%) Grenache with Syrah playing a very small role, the 2023 blend shifts to 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. The grapes were selected from their best terroir in the villages of Richerenche, Vinsobres, Puyméras, Tulette, and Saint Maurice. The vineyards are situated at altitude in the lower Pré-Alpes north of Mont Ventoux, on terraces with a cooler climate where the sunny Mediterranean climate is cooled by the Mistral winds. The soil on these terraces is composed of clay limestone formed of sedimentary rock and pebbles. To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested when extra ripe to obtain maximum aromatic concentration and natural mellowness. It was traditionally vinified with the must macerating for two weeks at a controlled temperature, followed by extended wood ageing.

In 2023, the growing season began with a very dry start from January to March, which resulted in a relatively late budburst in early April. The Mistral winds blew frequently during the period between budburst and flowering—precisely when growers would have preferred calmer conditions. On the bright side, there were welcoming rains in May and June, followed by a warm and arid summer, which climaxed to 43°C in late August, which led to some grapes suffering sunburn and maturation issues. Rain at the end of August allowed the vines to recover and the grapes to resume ripening, although the fierce heat remained until the end of the month. This was a season that suited vines grown on clay soils (under rolled pebbles). The early harvest wasn't particularly good for Grenache as sugar ripening had often got ahead of phenolic ripening, which may help explain the increased proportion of Syrah in this vintage for this wine. Despite the challenges, this is a good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Côtes du Rhône red is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CELLIER DES DAUPHINS RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2023 - AOC, France (#14081) (XD) - $16.95
This blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a medium+ intensity nose that takes some coaxing to reveal a fine mix of ripe black raspberry, garrigue, peppery spice, and black cherry aromas with warm stones and scorched earth notes adding further complexity. The medium to medium+ bodied palate is dry with ripe, plummy, dark cherry, black raspberry, black cherry, blackberry, and peppery spice flavours nuanced with meaty, scorched earth, and stony minerals. It's supported by fresh, lively, and slightly tangy acidity, along with grainy textured tannins with good structure. Nicely balanced throughout with savoury black raspberry and scorched earth notes lingering on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A few wines by UVCdR bearing the "Dauphins" name are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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Los Clop Paraje Altamira Reserva Malbec 2023 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Malbec from the high-altitude region of Paraje Altamira within the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Argentina. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving both in-store and online in last weekend's July 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This Malbec is produced by Clop Wines, a family-run winery whose story begins after José Clop emigrated from Spain to the Mendoza region of Argentina in 1885. José built the Clop family's first winery in 1915, and the business was boosted by his grandson, Don Eraclio Ricardo Clop, in 1991 with a vision to find the best site for the production of premium wines of great depth and unique personality.

In 2002, Ricardo and his sons, Gustavo and Rubén, bought the current winery, not far from the original winery in the district of Fray Luis Beltrán, Department of Maipú, in Mendoza. By 2005, the Clop brothers took on the challenge of producing high-quality wines with the same vision as their father and great-grandfather. In 2007, they began exporting their wines, with the first export to the Island of Mauritius. In 2015, international acclaim arrived as they were awarded Best Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

Today, Clop Wines continues to be run by brothers Gustavo and Rubén. They have decided to invest mostly in the oases where some of Argetina's best vines are grown: Agrelo and Valle de Uco. The structure and architecture of the winery mimics the first wineries in Mendoza and offers a large and convenient space for the reception and processing of grapes. To produce quality wines, Clop Wines combines age-old tradition with innovative, leading-edge technology.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Malbec that was grown in the Paraje Altamira appellation within the department of San Carlos, Uco Valley. The vineyard was planted in 2007 at an altitude of 1,070 metres above sea level on soil that is sandy with stones on the surface and a significant presence of calcareous material lying underneath. The area typically receives only 180 millimetres of rainfall annually, thus the vines are watered via drip irrigation.

To craft this Malbec, the grapes were hand-harvested in the second fortnight of April, and then brought to the winery for cluster and berry selection. The grapes underwent a cold maceration at 6°C for approximately 5 days with constant monitoring and assessment, followed by a traditional fermentation with indigenous yeasts between 26°C and 28°C for 15 days. The wine remained in contact with its skins to enhance mouthfeel and texture, after which it was separated from the skins by pressing. Malolactic fermentation was carried out with indigenous bacteria, followed by 12 months of ageing in new French oak barrels.

The growing season in the 2023 vintage in Argentina was the hottest year recorded since 1961. It was also another roller coaster of a vintage as La Niña left the country in a state of drought, including during the winter months which were unnaturally dry but with some polar influences. Spring frosts in Altamira mildly affected yields, which resulted in fewer berries and contributed to the power of the wines this year. From a very good to outstanding vintage in Altamira that produced minerally and age-worthy wines, let's see how this 2023 Malbec from Paraje Altamira in Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LOS CLOP PARAJE ALTAMIRA RESERVA MALBEC 2023 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#49711) (XD) - $22.95
Elegantly well-balanced with a touch of reductive character, this has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of violet, floral, peppery oak spice, blackberry, and black cherry, plus touches of stony/earthy minerals. On the dry, medium to medium-full bodied palate it is ripe and well-structured with violet, black & purple fruits, blackberry, and peppery oak spice flavours. Fresh acids are crisp and lively, while the tannins are quite structured and slightly grippy. Nicely textured throughout with purple and black fruits, and violet notes tapering to savoury, stony minerals on the long, gently chalky textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few other Clop Wines are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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Illuminati RipaRosso Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (Italy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious red crafted with Montepulciano from Abruzzo. It is a brand new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves across the province in the recent June 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Illuminati Vini, one of Abruzzo's historic family wine estates that was established in 1890 by Nicola Illuminati. He founded his first winery in the commune of Ripatransone, on the border between Marche and Abruzzo, and called it "Fattoria Nicò".

While this was the beginning of the family's history in wine, their familial history and character goes back much further in time with their ancestor, Pacifico Illuminati. Furthermore, their ancient patronymic surname means "illuminated by faith", while their coat of arms is a crescent moon and candle. These ancient symbols signified wisdom, devotion, and resolve, and were discovered, almost by chance, by more recent generations among old relics whose provenance was lost in time. In the past, the people in the village referred to the family as "grastielle", or "those who unite". The members of the Illuminati family were considered wise people who people could always turn to during a conflict, and always brought people together around a table.

In 1960, Dino Illuminati, grandson of Nicola, left Ripatransone and moved to the south to Controguerra, in Abruzzo, by the Teramo hills, which had a microclimate tempered by the Adriatic Sea and was protected by the Gran Sasso mountain range. In an area called Zanna, Dino purchased a farmhouse and 5 hectares of land, which is still Illuminati Vini's headquarters today and is surrounded by 110 hectares of vineyards.

Today, the winery is led by brothers Stefano and Lorenzo Illuminati, and Stefano's son, Nicola, who represent the 4th and 5th generations of the family. The philosophy at Illuminati Vini is that wine isn't just a craft, but a way of working in symbiosis with the land, and an idea refined from father to son, from choice to choice. Each generation has received something and added something, and together, the team carries forward a method that was built over 150 years of experimentation, preserves tradition, and continues to evolve over time.

Illuminati Vini has several lines of wines, with each wine having its own story and born from an encounter between a unique terroir and the knowledge of five generations of winegrowers. This particular red wine is from their RipaRosso line, which recounts the many facets of the Controguerra Teramo Hills, including geography, memory, and natural elements that define the character of the wines and the land that produces them.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Montepulciano that was grown in vineyards situated within the communes of Controguerra, Corropoli, and Torano Nuovo. The vineyards are planted between 200 and 270 metres above sea level, on medium textured soil that tends toward clayey. It was vinified using a traditional red wine method with long maceration of the skins in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature of 28°C. It underwent malolactic fermentation in steel, and was then aged in 25 hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 6 months.

The 2023 vintage in Abruzzo was marked by sweeping changes to the DOC which took effect that year, as well as climatic challenges. Like much of the country, Abruzzo suffered through rain and overcast skies throughout spring, which caused downy mildew, and resulted in drastically reduced yields. Summer was arid and warm, which caused many vines to go into hydric stress and slowed the ripening process. At the time of harvest, the grapes displayed uneven ripeness levels, which meant that severe selection was necessary to identify healthy grapes. Let's see how this 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ILLUMINATI RIPAROSSO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 - DOC, Italy (#269985) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap enclosure. Fragrant and open, the medium-high intensity nose has lifted, ripe and fruity aromas of black plum, black cherry, and spice notes layered over oak and grilled herbs in a slightly jammy profile. The weighty, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with plenty of spice notes embedded with dark fruit, black cherry, black plum, currant, and herbal flavours, plus touches of smoky oak. Crisp acids are juicy and succulent, while the refined tannins have a slightly youthful grip. Spice and dark fruit characters lead to savoury, smoky oak notes on the long, well-structured finish. A food-friendly, recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines by Illuminati Vini can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Yalumba Samuel's Collection Shiraz 2023 (Barossa) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2023 Yalumba Galway Vintage Shiraz back in March, we go up a notch with tonight's red wine review from the same producer. This lovely, vegan, and certified sustainable Barossa Shiraz from Australia arrived at the LCBO as part of the Good Partners feature on Sustainable Winegrowing Australia in last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on May 9th.

Yalumba is Australia's oldest continuously family-owned winery and one of the country's most historically important wineries. It was founded by Samuel Smith in 1849 after he planted his first vines in the heart of the Barossa with a genuine respect for the land and a willingness to venture into the unknown.

Today, Yalumba is highly regarded for creating wines of authenticity and distinction, with sustainability an integral part of their success. Sustainability entered the picture at Yalumba in 1893, when Fred Caley Smith, the third generation of the family, took to the seas on a grand scientific discovery and returned with progressive horticultural developments that laid the foundation for sustainable viticulture and winemaking at Yalumba.

In 1985, Yalumba opened a new chapter when Robert Hill-Smith, the fifth generation of the family, became Managing Director at a time when the company was transitioning away from its strong reliance on fortified wines. Robert is widely credited for turning Yalumba into a well-respected producer of fine table wines, with a particular focus on premiumization, Rhône varieties, sustainability, and export markets. Robert also spearheaded the founding of Australia's First Families of Wine initiative, and in 2019 Yalumba became a member of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia. Daughters Jessica and Lucy Hill-Smith have also joined the business and represent the sixth generation of the family.

The well-respected Louisa Rose first joined Yalumba as a cellar hand during the 1992 vintage, eventually becoming Head of Winemaking at the family business for nearly two decades and one of Australia's most respected winemakers. In 2023, Louisa stepped into the role of Head of Sustainability and brings her vision, leadership, and voice to the future of Australian wine, while championing sustainable practices, progressive thinking, and a united industry. Sam Wigan joined the Yalumba family in 2001 and became Head Winemaker in 2023. Sam now leads a close-knit team of winemakers across the Hill-Smith family's stable and embodies the Yalumba philosophy with a love for bringing people together through storytelling, generosity, and the enjoyment of fine wine.

Yalumba has several collections of wines, and this particular wine is from their Samuel's Collection, which is their core premium range of wines. The range celebrates and honours their founder, Samuel Smith, who planted Yalumba's first vineyard over 170 years ago. Samuel had a spirit of embracing provenance and giving back to the land, which was the starting point for making this collection of fine wines possible. Samuel's Collection wines are designed to offer regional typicity and varietal transparency, alongside serious winemaking and drinkability at a moderate price.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Shiraz that was sourced from vineyards across the Barossa. The vines range from young (approx. 10–15 years old) to old (greater than 35 years), and are planted on a diverse range of sites that have slight variations in microclimates and soil types, such as red brown earths, sandy loams, and dark clay, all of which contributes to the complexity of this wine. Each parcel was vinified separately and fermented using a combination of both wild and cultured yeasts. The wines were matured for 10 months in Yalumba coopered French and Hungarian hogsheads, only 15% new, then blended and bottled prior to release.

The growing season in the 2023 vintage was delayed by several weeks due to abundant winter and spring rainfall, along with cooler than average temperatures in September and October. Further impacting the vintage were the windy conditions during flowering, which resulted in lower fruit set at some of the vineyards. Summer was relatively mild and allowed the grapes to slowly ripen, develop complexity, and thrive. From a late vintage that produced elegantly restrained wines with character and charm, let's see how this 2023 Barossa Shiraz is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

YALUMBA SAMUEL'S COLLECTION SHIRAZ 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Barossa, South Australia (#12907) (XD) - $21.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this lovely Shiraz has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose that is deep and intense with ripe dark fruits, blackberry, black cherry, black pepper spice, oak spice, and dried herb aromas with a hint of mint. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has above average concentration and delicious ripe dark fruit, black cherry, cassis, blackberry, black pepper spice, and cedary oak flavours, plus hints of dried herb, meaty, and smoky mineral notes. Some minty notes on the mid-palate, alongside fresh acidity and smooth, supple, and fine-grained tannins. A touch warming, but still within balance. Savoury, cedary, and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Several wines by Yalumba are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Tapiz Alta Collection San Pablo Vineyard Malbec 2023 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Happy start to the long weekend! Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Malbec from Argentina that arrived at the LCBO in last weekend's May 9 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Fincas Patagónicas, one of Argentina's most prominent wine producers. It was founded in 2003 by Patricia Ortiz with the goal of crafting exceptional wines from Argentina's most distinctive terroirs. At Fincas Patagónicas, the winemaking philosophy combines traditional methods with innovative techniques to create exceptional wines from high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza to the Atlantic coast of Patagonia that truly express each area's unique terroir.

Fincas Patagónicas has several winery projects across Argentina, including Zolo and Wapisa, but Tapiz, where this wine is from, was their first. The state-of-the-art Tapiz winery is located in the high-altitude San Pablo region, within the Tunuyán department, of the Uco Valley, and is surrounded by estate vineyards. Under the guidance of Patricia, Tapiz is a pioneer in the region and helped develop the San Pablo Geographical Indication (GI).

Tapiz wines are crafted by the celebrated winemaking team of Fabian Valenzuela and famed Bordeaux winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet (winemaker of Petrus for 44 vintages), and are a beautiful tapestry (tapiz) of terroir and innovation. The wines of Tapiz combine sustainable winemaking traditions with modern innovation, along with a strong commitment to excellence which is reflected in their environmentally conscious approach and dedication to producing wines that truly express their unique terroir in San Pablo. The San Pablo GI benefits from the extremes of altitude, temperature, and soil heterogeneity, which allows the winemaking team to create full-bodied and concentrated wines that are elegant and balanced. Through her wineries, Patricia is dedicated to giving back to the environment through sustainable practices, while also encouraging responsible practices among their staff, suppliers, and customers.

This red wine is crafted using 100% Malbec that was grown at the San Pablo Estate Vineyard within the Uco Valley. The vineyard is situated at a high altitude of 1,350 metres (4,430 feet) above sea level, which is one of the highest vineyards in Mendoza. The vines average 14 years old and are planted on alluvial soils which have a diverse sandy loam texture, gravel, and significant deposits of calcareous material. The grapes were sustainably farmed and hand-harvested, and vinified by first undergoing a cold pre-maceration for 5 days at 8ºC. It underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for approximately 15 days at 28ºC, as well as 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months in French (85%) and American (15%) oak barrels.

Like the year prior, the 2023 vintage in Argentina was another roller-coaster vintage as recent years influenced by La Niña left the country in a state of drought, including the winter months which were unnaturally dry but with some polar influences. Spring frosts attacked nascent buds during budbreak, which massively cut yields in some parts of Mendoza. After the bouts of frost, the season settled into warm days, while the summer was the hottest and driest in years. The grapes ripened quickly, and those vineyards at altitude benefitted from diurnal temperature variation. The end result was an early harvest with concentrated fruit, fresh acidity, and modest alcohol levels. From a good vintage that produced age-worthy wines with great minerality and texture, let's see how this 2023 Malbec from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TAPIZ ALTA COLLECTION SAN PABLO VINEYARD MALBEC 2023 - Sustainable, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#450155) (XD) - $20.95
This high altitude Malbec has lovely, open aromatics of medium-high intensity offering notes of ripe, crushed dark berry and blackberry aromas nuanced with hints of violet, mineral, savoury oak, earth, dried herb, and peppery spice. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has delicious ripe dark berry, blackberry, violet, dried herb, savoury earth, oak spice, and peppery replays joined by mineral accents on the flavour profile. It has crisp and fresh acidity, alongside supple, fine-grained, and gently chalky textured tannins. Clean and well-balanced throughout with dark berries, blackberry, savoury oak, earth, dried herb, and mineral notes on the long, gently tight finish. Enjoyable now, but should be even better in a couple of years, and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Fincas Patagónicas can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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