Spy Valley E Block Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, certified sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Waihopai Valley in Marlborough. It arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Spy Valley Wines, a family-owned winery located deep in the Waihopai Valley, within the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. It was established by Bryan and Jan Johnson in 1993, during a time of discovery and courage in Marlborough when it was thought that the area was too hard, too dry, and too unfertile for winegrowing. The Johnson couple had the audacity and passion for the land to establish 180 hectares of estate vineyards, and with a pioneering spirit, Spy Valley would go on to become one of New Zealand's most successful family-run wineries.

The name "Spy Valley" is inspired by the winery's proximity to a government communications facility that is often referred to as a spy base. As Bryan and Jan stepped away from the winery, it was their daughter, Amanda Johnson, who took over and became Managing Director of Spy Valley. As the daughter of the founding family, Amanda has Spy Valley in her blood. She is passionate about looking after the land and for future generations, and knows how crucial sustainability is to both Spy Valley and the wine industry.

Sustainability has been a core value at Spy Valley since the winery's founding. They know that when you work on land as exceptional as this, you protect it. Spy Valley also knows that their environment is one of the many secrets to their success, as it has sustained generations, and it is their job to nurture it for many more. Since 1999, Spy Valley has been proudly accredited under the New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing scheme, which promotes economically and environmentally sustainable vineyard management. Spy Valley proudly was one of Marlborough's first wineries to be certified under this program.

Spy Valley has several ranges of wines in their portfolio, and this white wine is from their Block Range. The Block Range is a refined and complex range of wines that are crafted using grapes from unique single blocks on their estate, which were selected for their flavour and structure. One can expect wines from the Block Range to deliver terroir, typicity, and an element of craft.

This particular white wine is from Spy Valley's Block Range and is crafted using 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown on the estate in Waihopai Valley, where the geology is stony, seismic, and on an ancient glacial riverbed, and the soil is composed of alluvial stony silt loams. The viticulturalist was Adam McCone, and winemakers were Wendy Stuckey and Emily Gaspard-Clark. The grapes were harvested at peak flavour maturity from their E Block Vineyard Block in the Waihopai Valley. It underwent gentle juice extraction, and was cold settled and fermented in a combination of 80% in stainless steel tanks and 20% in French oak barrels, with a range of aromatic yeasts. The wine remained on its fine yeast lees for 6 months before blending and bottling.

The growing season in Waihopai Valley experienced an excellent flowering period and consistent rainfall, which resulted in even crops and healthy canopies. The weather leading up to harvest was slightly cooler than recent years, which meant that the start of harvest was a bit later and allowed the fruit to get extra "hang time" and develop more flavours across all varieties. While the crop was slightly smaller than the previous bumper crop season, the fruit was perfectly ripened during the steady, low-stress harvest. At Spy Valley, the 2023 growing season was a great success with a year of collaboration, innovation, and exceptional quality. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Waihopai Valley in Marlborough, New Zealand, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SPY VALLEY E BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#36874) (XD) - $21.95
The fragrant, highly aromatic nose wafts of limey citrus, gooseberry, white peach, and leesy mineral aromas nuanced with grapefruit, lemon citrus, guava, passion fruit, green herb, and spice notes. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with good density and concentration and delivers ripe, lime/lemon citrus, grapefruit, floral, gooseberry, white peach, and guava flavours, plus notions leesy mineral, spice, and green herb, all supported by fresh and creamy acidity. It's well-balanced throughout with citrus and tropical fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, fresh, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Spy Valley are available (some in small quantities) at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Featherstone Red Tail Merlot 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, certified sustainable and vegan Merlot from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as a Smart Buy in the January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2023 Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay I enjoyed a few months ago, this red wine is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery that was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson. Featherstone is located on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment, and prides itself on its eco-friendly farming practices, which have been in place since Featherstone's founding.

The vision at Featherstone has always been to produce distinctive, small-batch wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. Since the beginning, the philosophy has been based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and without the use of insecticides, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. In 2023, Featherstone received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

In 2024, after twenty-five successful years, Featherstone changed hands and is now under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal. The team at Featherstone has a common dedication to excellence in food and a passion for wine. In addition to building upon the successes of the past, Rayla and George are also using their background in philanthropy to help uplift the surrounding community and have set an ambitious goal to give back 10% of all profits to local charities in the area.

As winemaking and grape growing are both scientific and intuitive processes, Featherstone wines reflect the special character of the grapes, as well as the artistry of the winemaker. Kevin is still the senior winemaker at Featherstone, while the other winemaker is Kevin Qin, who has been with Featherstone since 2016.

Named after the graceful and swift, red-tailed hawks that fly above the vineyards in Niagara, this red wine is composed of 100% Merlot. The grapes were machine harvested by October 26th and optically sorted to separate the ripest grapes, then cold soaked on the skins for 5 days and underwent alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts in their climate-controlled cellar. The wine also underwent complete malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels (25% new) from Tonnellerie Sirgue-Nuits Saint Georges, with monthly lees stirring.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was saved by a dry and warm fall that provided relief from the wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer. While harvest was behind normal schedule by up to three weeks, the end result was a bountiful crop with high-quality grapes. Merlot exhibits fine acidity and phenolic ripeness, alongside ripe tannic structure, and will be enjoyable both in the near and long term. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Merlot from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#131540) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this Merlot has fragrant, medium-high intensity aromatics that deliver ripe red & black berried notes of currant, cassis, cherry, mocha chocolate, and earth, plus touches of cedar oak and green herbs. The dry, mid-weighted palate has delicious currant, cassis, black cherry, chocolate, earth, and cedar oak flavours in a well-balanced profile. Acids are crisp and balanced, while the tannins are smooth and refined, with a fine, dusty texture. Savoury earth and chocolate notes lead to a tangy finish, with very good length. Smart buy! Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Cave de Lugny Mâcon-Chardonnay 2023 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this lovely, certified sustainable Chardonnay from the Mâconnais wine region of Burgundy. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving as part of last month's December 20 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cave de Lugny, a historically significant co-operative winery situated in the Mâconnais wine district of Burgundy. While the roots of Cave de Lugny date back to the 18th century, it was officially founded in 1927 on the backs of wines that were produced from the famous vineyards of Saint Pierre, Les Crêts, and La Grande Vigne, and was the second wine co-operative that was established in the Mâconnais, only one year after the establishment of the co-operative Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé.

With shared common values and interests, the two wine co-operatives merged in 1966, but maintained their own production sites. The combined group invested in their facilities, including the installation of packaging facilities in 1970 at both sites, and all the production of red wines was moved to Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé, while all the white wines were produced at Lugny. In 1987, the group's long name was shortened to "Cave de Lugny", and in 1994 they were joined by a third wine co-operative - Cave de Chardonnay.

Today, Cave de Lugny is firmly rooted in the Mâconnais countryside and is proud of its origins and history, which have made it a specialist in Southern Burgundy wines. The winery is forward-thinking and seeks to grow by producing not only quality wines, but also by improving the quality of working conditions. The three wineries of Cave de Lugny each have their own specialization. The winery in Chardonnay is dedicated to the production of sparkling wines, while the winery in Saint-Gengoux-de-Scissé mainly vinifies red wines. At Lugny, they vinify and age white wines, as well as handle packaging and shipping for all three wineries.

When the co-operative was initially founded, it consisted of 116 wine growers, a number that grew three years later to 180, and today that number exceeds 400 members. Together, the members of Cave de Lugny are masters of the land, proud of their craft, and share a love of their vineyards. The growers, some of whom are several generations old, are united and determined, creative and innovative, and represent a veritable raw talent which plays a crucial role in the development of the local area, the conservation of the environment, and the preservation of the region's rural activity. The wines of Cave de Lugny are produced with protected designations of origin, which build a reputation over the long term. Since 2014, Cave de Lugny has been an approved and certified member of Sustainable Winegrowing.

This particular white wine was formerly known as a Grand Reserve and came to us as a brand-new label. It is crafted with 100% Chardonnay grapes that were grown in the appellation of Mâcon-Chardonnay. The village of Chardonnay is situated in the northern part of the Mâconnais region, and the vines are grown on the slopes of two valleys: on the one side, on the northernmost extension of the hillside of Lugny along to the village of Ozenay, and on the other, between Chardonnay and the hills looking down over Tournus.

Historically, this ancient settlement was founded by the Romans and known as Cardonacum, which became Chardonnay over time. With architectural heritage artifacts, the area was known to practice winegrowing and for its dedication to transforming grapes. Towards the end of the 18th century, the village made a name for itself by producing white wines from the famous varietal, which at the time was known by many different names. In 1860, when Dr. Jules Guyot visited Baron d'Empire Chapuis-Montlaville’s property, he saw "Chardennets" plants that were more than 80 years old, and gradually the name of the village became intertwined with the grape variety.

For this Chardonnay, the 80 hectares of vines average over 30 years old and are planted on south-southeast facing slopes, on shallow soils made of limestone. To vinify this wine, the grapes were mechanically harvested and pressed in a pneumatic press. It underwent alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature of between 16°C and 18°C, followed by complete malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured on its lees in stainless steel vats and then bottled.

The 2023 growing season in Burgundy provided an abundance of both quantity and quality. A relatively benign winter turned into a tumultuous spring which featured both unseasonably warm and chilly days. This delayed budbreak, but avoided any spring frosts. Summer eventually arrived, along with some thunderstorms, which created humid conditions and meant that growers had to be vigilant in monitoring disease in the vineyard. Conditions leading up to harvest were balmy, followed by very good weather during harvest. The latent summer heat resulted in rich, aromatic, and fruit-driven wines. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Mâconnais, Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVE DE LUGNY MÂCON-CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, AOC, Burgundy, France (#45272) (XD) - $23.95
This 100% unoaked Chardonnay has lovely, richly elegant aromas of medium-high intensity rising out of the glass with notes of lemon citrus, flinty-leesy mineral, apple, pear, and white flower, plus accents of white peach. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is lightly honeyed with apple, pear, citrus, spice, and white flower flavours nuanced with leesy minerals. It has fresh and lively acidity, with a juicy mid-palate, and a finely textured mouthfeel. Apple, pear, and citrus notes give way to spice and leesy-flinty minerals on the long, crisp, and well-balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A pair of lovely wines by Cave de Lugny are readily available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Trilogy Wine Merchants.

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La Chevalière Rasteau 2023 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Grenache-based blend from the Côtes du Rhône Cru of Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

La Chevalière is a label produced by Les Grandes Serres, a well-regarded winery located in the Southern Rhône Valley. Founded in 1977, Les Grandes Serres is known for its expertise with the classic Rhône varietals of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, and producing high-quality wines from the Southern Rhône's most prestigious appellations. The name "Grandes Serres" translates to "large greenhouses", which once existed on the property.

Today, Les Grandes Serres is dedicated to expressing the diversity and unique terroirs of the Southern Rhône Valley. They emphasize sustainable viticulture and have deep respect for the environment. Mainly a négociant firm, Les Grandes Serres sources most of their grapes from contract growers.

The grapes for this red wine come from the village of Rasteau, an appellation by the same name which also became a Cru in 2020. Rasteau is situated in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the north of Vaucluse, and features a diversity of terroirs and a Mediterranean climate. The soil in Rasteau includes red marl and sandstone, clay and limestone soils, and is covered with worn pebbles on the surface. The pebbles accumulate heat throughout the day, and at night they release all that heat, which in turn cools down the vines. Rasteau is an ideal environment for wines to fully express their structured, generous, and powerful nature.

This lovely cuvée is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan. When compared with the excellent 2022 La Chevalière Rasteau that I enjoyed in 2024, the 2023 has 10% more Syrah, while the amount of Mourvèdre and Carignan went down. To vinify this wine, the grapes were destemmed, gently crushed, and placed into temperature-controlled vats, followed by a three-week maceration with regular pumping-over and délestage (rack and return). After ageing, the different terroirs (and grapes) were blended together in order to achieve optimum balance, which highlights the characteristics of Rasteau.

In 2023, the growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a dry start and a relatively late bud burst. Welcoming late-spring rains arrived in May and June, and were followed by a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. This was a vintage that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils, and while the weather conditions did present some challenges, the resulting wines from Rasteau excelled and showed detailed terroir expression. Let's see how this 2023 Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHEVALIÈRE RASTEAU 2023 - AOP, Rhône, France (#18502) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan has a lovely, perfumed, medium-high intensity nose of dark red berry, garrigue, stones, peppery spice, blackberry, earthy mineral, with a touches of olive, leafy dried herbs, and meaty characters in a complex profile. The medium+ bodied palate is dry, ripe, and slightly warming with delicious black raspberry, peppery spice, garrigue, stones, and savoury, earthy mineral flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe and supple tannins are smooth and well-structured. Savoury and stony on the long, crisp finish. Best enjoyed at cooler temperatures and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by the producers of La Chevalière can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

For my final wine review of the year, tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cape Pastoral, a wine brand based in the Western Cape wine region of South Africa that is focused on crafting organic wines with minimal intervention.

The Western Cape is known for not only its rural beauty, including fauna and flora, but also its grape growers and winemakers, who are well-grounded as the primary preservers of the region's grape-growing soil. Cape Pastoral wines are the result of a harmonious relationship between the Western Cape's grape-growing soil, weather elements, and the natural response of the winemakers to transform the grapes into tasteful wines.

This ethos is reflected on the label of each Cape Pastoral wine. This wine has flowing shades of orange which represent the sun and its role as core source of earth’s energy, while the spots refer to the dispersal of seeds that happens naturally without human interference. The bee is an important pollinator of crops which are facing the threat of deforestation. Together, these visual elements tie into the pastoral style of creative works that idealize rural life and landscapes, while also alluding to the harmony that can exist when humans take a hands-off approach to nature.

Although I was not able to get the exact composition at the time of this post, this red wine is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes were grown and certified organically. After harvesting the grapes, they arrived at the cellar and were meticulously sorted by a sorting machine to ensure only the finest grapes were vinified. It was fermented using natural yeasts, and spent a considerable amount of time on its lees to create a creamy, textured mouthfeel. It also spent some time in oak to add spice characters and soften the tannins.

The growing season for the 2023 vintage in South Africa's winelands was generally dry and warm, with budbreak occurring slightly earlier than average. Conditions were optimal in spring and early summer, with abundant rains early in the season, just before veraison, which aided fruit quality. A cool and wet summer prolonged ripening, while unseasonal rains that arrived in March prolonged the harvest into April for many. This meant that picking decisions and careful vinification was required for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. From a vintage that was cool and long with reduced yields, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAPE PASTORAL ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#36978) (XD) - $13.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of dark fruit and cedary oak spice aromas layered over currant, cassis, earth, and black plum, with hints of chocolate. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has pleasant dark berry, currant, cassis, and oak spice flavours joined by green herbs, savoury earth, and cocoa notes. Clean and well-made with crisp acidity, while the refined and textured tannins are gently grippy. Crisp and juicy with savoury earth, oak spice, and mocha chocolate notes on the lengthy finish. Pleasantly surprised and a recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

There is only one other wine by Cape Pastoral and it can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Escarpment Noir Pinot Noir 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Pinot Noir from Martinborough in New Zealand. It made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Escarpment Winery, a wine producer that was founded in 1999 as a joint venture between Larry and Sue McKenna of Martinborough, and Robert and Mem Kirby of Australia. However, the driving force of Escarpment was Larry, who grew up near South Australia's McLaren Vale and had been a pioneer winemaker in Martinborough since 1986.

Escarpment is located on Te Muna Road, in Martinborough's famed alluvial gravel soils that were formed by the Huangarua River over 20,000 years ago. The winery is named after the long, steep slope that lies at the end of a plateau, which is their unique place within Martinborough. Their site also has ancient alluvial soils that run deep beneath the land, while big, open skies stretch across the Wairarapa. Escarpment Winery's purpose is to translate the natural balance that exists here into wines that reflect these special attributes, this special part of Aotearoa, New Zealand.

Today, Escarpment Winery is one of New Zealand's most respected cool-climate wine producers. In 2019, Escarpment was acquired by Torbreck Vintners of Barossa Valley, South Australia. In 2022, Larry retired and left his legacy in the capable hands of Viticulturist, Rowan Hoskins and Winemaker, Tim Bourne.

The vision at Escarpment is to continue to produce wines that capture a unique sense of place. Situated in their unique place on Te Muna Road, their home vineyard has 24 hectares of distinctive alluvial gravel and terraced land that stretches out along the banks of the Huangarua River. The alluvial loam soil in this vineyard has very deep alluvial gravels layered over loam, a composition which ensures exceptional drainage and is one of the key prerequisites for nurturing and producing premium quality, healthy grape vines. Escarpment sources fruit for their wines from one of their four vineyards, as well as from growers around the Martinborough township with whom they have long-term relationships with.

Escarpment Winery has several lines of wines in its portfolio and is particularly known for its single vineyard expressions of Pinot Noir. This particular Pinot Noir is from their "Varietal Pinot" line, which is their commitment to the future expansion of their key varieties. Furthermore, the Varietal Pinot line is about exploring boundaries, a key philosophy that is exhibited in their winemaking approach.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in the North Island district of Martinborough. Part of Escarpment Winery's ethos is to explore boundaries to create wines of interest and complexity. This wine brings together over three decades of winemaking experience to craft a Pinot Noir using traditional techniques from fruit grown on the Martinborough terrace. Upon arriving at the winery, the harvested grapes were destemmed into open-top vessels and fermented using indigenous yeast. The average time in vat was 23 days, after which the wine was pressed off and aged in predominately older French barriques for about 10 months, with 16% new French oak. Each parcel was vinified and matured separately, with the resulting wine a blend of 36 individual parcels, and was bottled without fining.

The 2023 vintage in Martinborough was a difficult one due to sustained wet weather and cyclone activity. The wet and cool conditions began in autumn 2022 and persisted right through to autumn 2023, which made all vineyard activities extremely difficult and expensive as more passes through the vineyard were required because growth continued throughout the season and disease pressure was immense. Crops were constantly thinned, and low temperatures and high soil moisture levels meant ripening was slow and protracted. Pinot Noir was in good condition because the varietal is later to budburst and ripen, and was thus less advanced when Cyclone Gabrielle hit. From a trying vintage, let's see how this 2023 Pinot Noir from Martinborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESCARPMENT NOIR PINOT NOIR 2023 - Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#41810) (XD) - $29.95
Enclosed by screw cap. The highly engaging nose has medium-high intensity aromas with an intriguing mix of rose floral, earthy beet root, black spices, dark cherry, cranberry, and savoury minerals, plus strawberry accents. On the dry, light-to-medium bodied palate it shows impressive structure and textured tannins. Lovely, complex, and ripe flavours of black cherry, cranberry, strawberry, beet root, spices, and savoury minerals. Touch creamy on the mid-palate, which gives way to a mildly grippy back palate. Acids are crisp and juicy. It's well-balanced throughout with dark red berry notes tapering to savoury spice, and earthy minerals on the crisp finish, with excellent length. Should improve further with a few years in the cellar and drink well for at least 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other fine wines by Escarpment can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras at Grandes Serres. Rémy Ferbras is a wine brand anchored in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. It is owned by Maison Grandes Serres, which is in turn owned by Picard Vins & Spiritueux, and pays tribute to the winery's first cellar master - Rémy Ferbras.

As an emblematic character of the house, Rémy Ferbras was a fervent defender of the Rhône Valley terroir and its grape varieties. Rémy always aimed to express the full potential of the grapes and terroir from this renowned wine region, and contributed with his work and tenacity to expand the house and his notoriety. The Rémy Ferbras signature is synonymous with rigorous and precise selection, vinification, and ageing, values which remain with the brand. Furthermore, the wines of Rémy Ferbras are consistently rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

Like the 2022 Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted using the same 4 grapes that were grown in the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of Plan de Dieu. The named village appellation of Plan de Dieu, or "God's Plain", is a vast, flat terrace covered in vines, and makes more wine than any other Named Village. The plain lies in the Southern Rhone Valley, between the Aygues and Ouvèze rivers, which feed into the Rhône River from the east. Over thousands of years, the rivers laid down a deep bed of pebbles and clay that is perfect for cultivating vines. The vineyards in Plan de Dieu bask in the sun and are cooled by the north wind. The homogeneous terroir of Plan de Dieu has a Mediterranean climate influenced by the Mistral wind, while the soil consists of clay, limestone, and sands. As a red wine appellation, the main grape is Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in supporting roles. Grenache loves this stony, arid plateau, which used to be covered with a vast garrigue forest.

In this particular vintage, this red wine is composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre, from vines planted in mainly limestone chippings and brown clay. The grapes were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape varietal was traditionally and separately vinified. After two weeks of maceration, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26°C and 28°C, followed by malolactic fermentation, then blended and bottled.

The growing season in 2023 began with a dry start, and a relatively late bud burst. Late-spring rains in May and June were welcome, which preceded a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. It was a season that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils. While the season did present some challenges, it is considered to be a very good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre has a deep, medium-high intensity nose that offers warming black raspberry, garrigue, black cherry, floral, and spice aromas accented with stony mineral and earth notes that gain prominence with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with delicious and complex black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, stony mineral, garrigue, earth, and spice flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, alongside mouth-coating, grainy textured tannins. Shows good balance with savoury, stony mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Should drink well over next 5+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Only one wine (all in one store) from Rémy Ferbras is available at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (Italy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic, and unoaked Montepulciano from Abruzzo that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a leading wine producer that was founded by Gino Umani Ronchi within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche. A few years later, he formed a partnership with the Bianchi family, with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, eventually taking over the company in 1968. In 1990, Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager.

In 2001, Umani Ronchi purchased 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo, which signalled the beginning of a new venture. Today, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo, all of which are organically farmed and nestled between the hills and the sea along the Adriatic coast from Serra de' Conti in Marche in the north to Roseto degli Abruzzi in the south. Their philosophy is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. Their guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values.

This particular wine is from Umani Ronchi's Abruzzo range of wines, which are grown in a unique, alluvial soil whose top layer features sandy-clay loam that allows the vines through the gravel below, giving rise to wines of superb minerality. Moreover, the presence of the nearby Gran Sasso mountain and the winds off the Adriatic Sea allow for notable diurnal temperatures, which helps the grapes develop their aromatic qualities.

Crafted with 100% Montepulciano grapes, this red wine is named "Podere", or Farm. The grapes were obtained from vineyard farms predominantly located in the provinces of Chieti and Teramo. The vines were trained using the tendone system, which is the most widespread vine training system in Abruzzo and known for being fairly productive. When the tendone system is used with the correct balance, it can yield grapes of excellent quality. The grapes for this wine were hand-harvested from the end of September through the first ten days of October. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are macerated for up to 10 days in steel fermenting vats, followed by alcoholic and then malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured in steel for about 4 months, then rested for a short period in bottle prior to release.

The 2023 vintage in Abruzzo was marked by two important events - one positive and one negative. The positive is that wines from the 2023 vintage onward allow for the mention of subzones, along with stricter production rules, in order to achieve recognition and form a stronger bond between grape variety and territory. On the downside, the crop from the 2023 growing season was devastated by downy mildew. Being an organic wine producer, Umani Ronchi was able to fend off some of the fungus, which resulted in a production loss of 25% less than the historical average. After a challenging first part of the vintage, climatic conditions were ideal from August to October, which allowed the Montepulciano grapes to achieve optimal phenolic ripeness. While quantities were low, quality was generally excellent.

Umani Ronchi's version of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are intended to be an interpretation of the vine which exalts the varietal characteristics and freshness, and combines these qualities with just the right amount of charm and softness to create a pleasant and drinkable wine that complements many different kinds of dishes. Let's see how this 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI PODERE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 - DOC, Italy (#46567) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic and unoaked Montepulciano has an open, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers perfumed aromas of rustic wild berries, black cherry, currant, and dried herbal spice characters nuanced with touches of bramble, licorice, and floral notes. The ripe, medium+ bodied palate is dry with delicious black cherry, wild berry, currant, dried herbal spice, and licorice flavours framed by crisp and juicy acidity. The medium-firm, fine-grained tannins are well-structured. The black cherry notes taper to savoury, earthy, and mineral notes on the juicy, very long, and slightly tannic finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years and is a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Umani Ronchi are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Inniskillin 50th Anniversary Single Vineyard Wines (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a trio of exceptional wines that were launched this past summer by Inniskillin Wines to celebrate their 50th anniversary. As they celebrated their first 50 years of excellence with great pride, they are also looking forward to the next 50 years, which promises to be even more exciting. This excitement is fuelled by Canadian innovation and the launch of a series of new, premium wines to elevate your table.

The first 50 years at Inniskillin began when it was granted the first winery licence since prohibition in 1975 to become Canada's first estate winery. It was established by Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, two friends and business partners who became instant pioneers in Canadian winemaking after taking big risks and earning many firsts in the Canadian wine history. Karl was the Head Winemaker and helped develop Inniskillin's reputation for over 30 years before eventually stepping away from the project in 2006.

In 2007, Bruce Nicholson assumed the role of senior winemaker at Inniskillin in Niagara. Bruce had previously spent approximately 20 years working in the Okanagan Valley before returning to Niagara to provide leadership and ensuring that Inniskillin continued to excel.

In 2013, Nicholas Gizuk joined Inniskillin and rose up through the ranks within the company to become Head Winemaker at Inniskillin's Niagara Estate in 2001. Nicholas is part of a new generation of winemakers that stand on the shoulders of Donald and Karl. This new generation of winemakers are using the success of the last 50 years as the foundation for what’s next and believe that the next chapter will be even more exciting.

Nicholas Gizuk says that "With a renewed focus on single vineyard expressions, we're showcasing the incredible diversity of Canadian terroir through wines that are unmistakably Inniskillin, Our intimate history and experience with this land and these grapes puts us in a position to develop one-of-a-kind wines that simply can't be re-created anywhere else."

Today, as Canada's oldest winery, Inniskillin Wines is synonymous with Canadiana and part of a family of wineries owned by Arterra Wines Canada. Inniskillin is looking to the future and is ready to redefine what premium Canadian wine can be once again with innovative techniques and over 50 years of experience that focus on every aspect of from terroir to winemaking, to deliver high-quality wines that can only be made in Canada.

In addition to this Single Vineyard Riesling and a pair of Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc wines, the other two wines in the series are the 2022 Inniskillin Illuvia Cabernet Franc, which I enjoyed a couple of months ago, and the 2024 Inniskillin Zabek Single Vineyard Riesling Icewine. All five wines in the series are available at Inniskillin and online at Great Estates Niagara, while the Icewine is also available in very limited quantities at the LCBO. Inniskillin's 50th Anniversary Series wines are ideal companions to elevate your next hosting engagement or gifting needs.

Tasting Notes:

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD MONTAGUE RIESLING 2024 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $29.22
Stelvin screw cap enclosure. The medium-high intensity nose has lovely, focused aromas of orange zest, white peach, honeyed melon, and lemon/lime citrus, plus whiffs of petrol and limestone minerality adding savoury complexity. It's medium+ bodied with impressive concentration and structure on the dry palate with delicious beeswax, honey, white peach, orange, and melon replays, plus white grapefruit, spice and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, succulent, and structured acidity, along with a finely textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced throughout, and tapering to leesy minerals and limestone on the savoury finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Light, textured fish, poached and fried white meats, shellfish, sushi, mild Asian cuisine, and citrus-based sauces.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD HERON POND CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose is clean and fresh, with herbaceous aromas mingling with ripe red & black fruits, currant, black cherry, and tobacco, plus touches of cedary oak spice and reductive notes. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry, elegant, and complex palate with ripe red fruits, red currant, black cherry, red licorice, and red plum nuanced with dried herbs, gentle oak spice, tobacco flavours. It is well-balanced throughout with refreshing acidity, and smooth, elegant, and fine-grained tannins. Tobacco, spice, and savoury earth notes linger on long, well-structured, and balanced finish. Score: 91+ pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, tart red fruit sauces and firm cheeses.

INNISKILLIN SINGLE VINEYARD LAMENT FARMS CABERNET FRANC 2023 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $37.18
The medium-high intensity nose has savoury dark fruited aromas rising out of the glass, with layers of black currant, dark cherry, cedar, savoury oak spice, and earthy mineral, plus flecks of white pepper and Damson plum adding further interest and complexity. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with more dark fruited replays of currant, cassis, black cherry, oak spice, pipe tobacco, savoury earth, and dried herb flavours. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the firm, somewhat youthful tannins are well-structured. Touch grippy and slightly tangy with dark berry, savoury earth, and dried herbal notes on the long-lasting finish. Enjoyable now, but should improve with time in the cellar and drink well over the next 6-8 years. Score: 92 pts

Pairs with: Rare red meats, roasted red meats, game meats, cured and salted meats, tomato-based sauces, vegetable dishes, full-flavoured sauces, bitter chocolate, tart red fruit sauces, and firm cheeses.

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Tiraki Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It is brand-new to the LCBO and landed on shelves (and online) in last month's November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tiraki Wines, a family-owned winery situated at Longfield Farm in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. The farm was established in 1870 and has been family-owned and farmed for 5 generations. However, their journey into winegrowing only began after they planted their first grapes on the site in 1999.

The Hammond family didn't plan to start a wine company, but perhaps it was inevitable. Tiraki is run by three siblings - Josh, Tyler, and Ellarose Hammond - who grew up on the Marlborough farm, and a long-time friend - Chris. Together, they built forts out of bay hales, worked the vineyard by day, and by night they skied down the Wairau River - the same river that is depicted on the labels of Tiraki wines. Each sibling followed their own career path, which turned out to be complementary to each other as Josh became a winemaker, Tyler an MBA grad, and Ellarose a marketing grad, while Chris was a brilliant salesperson. The company was quietly growing before it even had a name.

As each child was growing up, one by one, they left Marlborough to pursue their own dreams in new cities and countries. However, in 2020, they all came home as Covid hit - much to the delight of their parents, and it was in 2020 that Tiraki was born, around the kitchen table, during vineyard walks, and over a few family dinners with Chris at the table.

Tiraki means 'the clearing of the sky' and is exactly what the brand has been for the family - a return to what matters the most - the land, their roots, and each other. Tiraki was created to reflect the life they've lived and the values they were raised with: to care for the land, support your community, and stay connected to what's real. Their values are rooted in Tikanga Māori and shape everything they do: Kaitiakitanga (Guardianship of the Land), Whanaungatanga (The Value of Connection and Kinship), Kotahitanga (Unity and Collective Action), and Manaakitanga (The Spirit of Hospitality, Kindness, and Generosity). Tiraki is proud to be New Zealand's first B Corp Certified wine company. Today, the Longfield farm spans 650 acres, with the majority planted to Sauvignon Blanc that is farmed with care and a commitment to best practices.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in their Oddstone Vineyard nestled in the Southern Valleys. The vines are 12 to 30 years old and planted on free-draining alluvial soils, and delivers concentrated fruit and lively acidity. The grapes to craft this wine were harvested in the cool, early morning, which allows for retaining aromatic flavour precursors, then gently pressed into tank to cold settle. The clear juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures with selected yeast strains designed to enhance aromatic intensity. Additionally, 18% of the wine was wild fermented in a mix of oak puncheons and stainless steel tanks. The two portions were then blended and aged on light lees for 5 months in tank.

During the 2023 growing season on the South Island of New Zealand, the vintage felt wet because it rained quite evenly from January to April, although total rainfall was slightly lower than average. Furthermore, variable and protracted flowering of early ripening varieties resulted in average yields for Sauvignon Blanc due to poor fruit set. Critical to the success of the vintage were the resulting loose bunches, which meant less disease vulnerability, particularly in Sauvignon Blanc, which is one of the most disease-prone varieties due to its naturally tight bunches. Cold nights held botrytis at bay and maintained acidity. From a La Niña year with disease pressure, the 2023 vintage is considered to be a resounding success, ranking among the top five vintages of all time. Moreover, it is possible to hypothesize that Sauvignon Blanc's optimal potential is realized in these benign La Niña conditions. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TIRAKI SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41802) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, the restrained, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers a lovely mix of ripe tropical fruits, guava, kiwi, passion fruit, lime citrus, leesy mineral, and grapefruit aromas, plus whiffs of white floral. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is impressively concentrated with lovely lime citrus, passion fruit, guava, and grapefruit flavours. It seems a bit tightly wound with its crisp and juicy acidity, and slightly grippy textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced flavours throughout with lime and passion fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Tiraki Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Eradus Pinot Noir 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from the Awatere Valley in Marlborough that arrived at the LCBO in last month's October 25 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This wine is produced by Eradus Wines, a family-owned winery that was established by Har and Sophie Eradus in the 1990s on an extraordinary footprint of land at the edge of the Awatere river. The couple had emigrated from Holland in 1982 and grew flowers in Auckland before embarking on this semi-retirement project to grow grapes in the Awatere Valley - a dryland that was sheep country at the time with only a few pioneering winegrowers.

The Eradus couple's imagination was captured by this sliver of land that was nestled between a higher terrace and the glacial river below, with its guarding boundary of gnarled old macrocarpa cypress trees. Their connection to this land seemed fated when Sophie cleared a shed on the property and found an old potbelly door with an embossed logo that entwined their initials - "H", "S" and "E" - which inspired the Eradus wine label.

From the beginning, Har and Sophie desired to have the unique and wild terroir of the Awatere Valley speak through their vines. This journey began with their first vintage - a 2002 Sauvignon Blanc - and heralded a future of extraordinary wines that reflect the essence of the Awatere Valley.

Today, Eradus Wines is run by their son, Michiel, and his Kiwi wife, Hanna, as they took over the family business in 2004. Together, the second generation of the Eradus family is committed to celebrating the unique terroir of this place, with a philosophy based upon bending to nature and letting the Awatere Valley imprint itself upon every Eradus wine. Knowing that good fortune led the family to this remarkable piece of land in a valley that is now globally acclaimed for its wines, the Eradus family's role has been to take this good luck and build it into vines and wines that pay homage to the Awatere Valley.

Crafted with 100% Pinot Noir from 23-year-old vines, the grapes for this wine were grown on a slender terrace with alluvial (river stone) soil at the edge of the Awatere River. This area has a unique microclimate and soil structure that is influenced by a fault line, river, and the power of the nearby Pacific Ocean. The land is stony, dry, windy and cool - elements that create lively wines of elegance and minerality. At Eradus, they let the untameable terroir of the Awatere Valley express itself through their vines, grapes, and ultimately - the wines. Bringing together "new world" fruit and "old world" elegance and minerality, this Pinot was aged for 10 months in barrel and released in June 2024.

The growing season on the South Island of New Zealand in 2023 felt wet because it rained quite evenly from January to April, although total rainfall was slightly lower than average. Furthermore, variable and protracted flowering of early ripening varieties such as Pinot Noir resulted in below average yields due to poor fruit set. This also led to loose bunches, which meant less disease vulnerability, and was an important factor in the success of the vintage. Cold nights held botrytis at bay and maintained acidity. From a La Niña year, the 2023 vintage is considered to be a resounding success, ranking among the top five vintages of all time. Let's see how this 2023 Pinot Noir from Awatere Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ERADUS PINOT NOIR 2023 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41809) (XD) - $24.95
Screw cap. Lifted and open, this has an appealing, medium-high intensity nose featuring aromas of sour cherry, strawberry, savoury mushroom, and earthy beetroot accented with spices and bramble, plus reductive whiffs of oak and dried herbs. The light-to-mid-weighted palate is dry with raspberry, cran-cherry, sour cherry, dried herbs, earthy beetroot, and mushroom flavours, plus touches of stony minerals. Acids are juicy, fresh, and succulent, while the light tannins are gently grainy textured, with gentle grip and good structure on the back palate. Juicy and mouthwatering on the long finish with savoury, dried herb, sour cherry, and earthy beetroot notes. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A couple of other wines by Eradus are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Miles From Nowhere Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious Sauvignon Blanc from Margaret River in Western Australia that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on October 11th.

It is produced by Miles From Nowhere, a wine brand established in 2007 by Franklin & Heather Tate. Franklin began working in wine when he planted his parents' first vines in 1973, while the couple have been working in the wine industry together since 1986. Miles From Nowhere is a dedication to the Tate family's patriarch that arrived in Australia from Ukraine over 100 years ago, and felt every bit 'miles from nowhere'. The brand's name also alludes to the geographic remoteness of the vineyards situated in the beautifully isolated Margaret River wine region of Western Australia.

The Tate family's goal with Miles From Nowhere is for every glass to express their love and passion for the Margaret River region. Frederique Perrin is the Director of Winemaking at Miles From Nowhere, and her philosophy is based on the belief that most wines are made to be shared and drunk. Additionally, no great wine is made in the cellar, as it all begins with viticulture, and then focusing on crafting wines that capture the soul of the terroir.

Miles From Nowhere has three ranges of wines - the icon wine range titled "Origin of Now", the middle-tier Best Blocks range, and the entry-level Estate Range. This particular white wine is from their Estate Range and is crafted using 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in their vineyards in Margaret River.

For this particular vintage, they selected their best blocks of the year, with about 70% coming from their Wilyabrup property and the remaining from their Karridale property. The Sauvignon Blanc in Wilyabrup is planted in an east-west orientation, by the property dam, and cane pruned. It ripens slowly due to the cool nights and foggy mornings, and produces moderate yields. The Sauvignon Blanc in Karridale is oriented north-south, on a slightly south-facing slope; therefore, the fruit is exposed to the sun by several leaf plucking passes throughout the season to ensure even ripening, while the very cool nights preserve the crisp acidity all the way to the harvest. To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested at night and rushed to the winery for pressing while cold. After pressing, the juice was racked off the majority of its solids, leaving some fine lees to bring to the ferment, which was long and cool (about 12°C), to preserve the fine fruit aromas. The wine was aged sur lees for about 3 months, then filtered and bottled in early winter.

The growing season in Margaret River was mild, with harvest starting a bit later than normal, and in great weather conditions. All the white varieties were allowed to optimally ripen and could be harvested at their peak flavour profile. For this wine, the Sauvignon Blanc from both sites was picked on the 3rd of March, with the Wilyabrup fruit displaying intense tropical fruit characters, while the Karridale fruit was added to the blend to provide refined focus and length. From a fantastic vintage, let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Margaret River is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MILES FROM NOWHERE MARGARET RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Western Australia (#41794) (XD) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this has a fragrant, highly aromatic nose that delivers a fine mix of lime/lemon citrus, leesy mineral, and garden herb aromas flecked with ripe tropical fruits (guava, kiwi), jalapeño, and spice. The dry, medium+ weighted palate has good density and concentration that supports the delicious lime/lemon citrus, guava, kiwi, garden herb, leesy mineral, and spice replays. It's well-balanced throughout with clean, fresh, and vibrant acidity. More lime citrus and guava with touches of leesy minerals linger on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Miles From Nowhere can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Fleuron de La Rebourgère Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2023 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a terrific Melon de Bourgogne from the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO in last month's October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Girard, a family estate winery that was established in the 1940s by the husband and wife team of Marcel and Gabrielle Girard in Rebourgère, a hamlet of Maisdon-sur-Sèvre, in the heart of the region of Nantes, Loire Valley. Gaston Girard, the only son of Marcel and Gabrielle, began working on the family farm at an early age and helped his mother, who had lost her husband after he returned from the war with an illness. Like most farms of the period, the Girard family practiced mixed farming with some cattle, cereal crops, and vines.

In 1961, Gaston married Georgette, a young woman from the nearby village of La Haie-Fouassière, and together they grew the farm by giving up on mixed farming and focusing on grapevines. As pioneers in the 1970s, the Girard family focused on direct-selling of their wines. With the entire family involved in the business, Gaston focused on winemaking, while his son, Patrick, helped bottle, label, and wrap the product. At the end of the week, the whole family would travel to other regions in France to hand-deliver their wines to cafés, restaurants, and private clients.

Patrick Girard, the third generation of his family to farm these lands, followed his father's footsteps and began to work in the vineyard and help with winemaking in the late 1980s, after completing his studies in winemaking. In 1991, after Gaston retired, Patrick took over the family estate. In the spring of 1991, the vines froze, and the crop was completely annihilated. In May 1991, Gaston married Martine, and together with bravery and amibition, they rebuilt the family vineyard over the years, while also making numerous improvements using modern techniques both in the vineyard and cellar.

Today, Domaine Girard's philosophy is based on the quality of the work, precision, and the flawless quality of the wines. They have 93 acres of vines in reasoned culture, and use 40% of the crop to create a diverse range of wines. As winemaker, Patrick also works in the vineyard and takes care of the commercial aspects of the business, while Martine works in the cellar, prepares orders, administrative, and accounting activities. The fourth generation of the family, Guillaume Girard, son of Patrick and Martine, joined the family estate in 2013, after completing his studies in winemaking and marketing, and like his father, combines tradition with modernity to craft their lovely Loire Valley wines.

Like the 2022 Domaine Girard Le Fleuron de La Rebourgère Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie I enjoyed in Spring of last year, this white wine is crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne that was grown on silty, clayey, and shallow soils (less than 30 cm), with a sub-soil made of schist and gneiss. The vines are more than 40 years old and planted on weak-to-moderate slopes. The grapes were mechanically harvested, then direct-pressed into underground, thermo-regulated vats for fermentation. The wine was left on its lees for 9–10 months, with one or two bâtonnages (lees stirring) in order to increase richness and texture.

In 2023, the Loire Valley had a challenging vintage due to variable weather conditions which encompassed both rain and heatwaves, with producers fighting against mildew and acid rot. However, one of the most successful areas of the Loire in this vintage was in the western area of Pays Nantais, which encompasses the Muscadet appellations. Because the Melon de Bourgogne varietal is an early ripening grape, producers were able to the Melon grape during the heatwave at the beginning of September, and prior to the heavy rains that fell mid-month. The result was Muscadet with perfectly ripe grapes, very good concentration, and slightly higher alcohol levels. Let's see how this 2023 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine from the Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FLEURON DE LA REBOURGÈRE SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2023 - AOC, Loire, France (#557207) (XD) - $16.95
This 100% Melon de Bourgogne has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is clean and refined with elegant lemon citrus, stone fruit, and ripe apple aromas, plus touches of leesy minerals and a whiff of honey adding nuance and interest. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is rich and densely concentrated with ripe apple, lemon citrus, and leesy mineral flavours, plus stone fruit, melon, and spice characters adding complexity. It has crisp and finely detailed acidity, along with a richly textured mouthfeel. Apple notes give way to leesy and oyster shell minerals with touches of spice on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy with seafood. Score: 89 pts

Other terrific wines by Domaine Girard can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, sustainable, and vegan-friendly Chardonnay that screams local as it was barrel-fermented and aged in Canadian oak barrels. This white wine returned to the LCBO as part of last month's October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario, including at the winery in Niagara.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery situated on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The winery was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson, and prides itself on their use of eco-friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar since the beginning. In 2024, after 25 successful years, Featherstone changed hands and began a new chapter under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

The vision at Featherstone is to build on the successes of the past and continue to produce distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. The philosophy at Featherstone has always been based on respect for the land which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and reduced chemical intervention, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. As nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in a give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, there is a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. Since its founding, Featherstone has always prided itself on farming without the use of insecticides, and in 2023 they achieved their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was harvested on October 26, 2023. The grapes were machine harvested, crushed, de-stemmed, and then pressed into barrels made from Canadian oak that was grown nearby. It underwent alcoholic fermentation in barrels using wild, indigenous yeast, followed by 100% complete malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months in 100% Canadian oak barrels, with lees stirring taking place on a monthly basis.

In 2023, rhe growing season was wet, dreary, and featured a smoke-filled summer, but was remarkably saved by a dry and warm fall. While the harvest was pushed back by as much as three weeks, most varieties that were harvested were in good shape, with a bountiful crop. Chardonnay was one of the star varieties of the vintage as it benefited from warm days and cool nights prior to harvest and developed vibrant fruit and juicy acidity. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#149302) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers caramel, banana, and vanilla aromas surrounding a core of ripe tropical fruits, yellow apples, and creamed peaches. On the dry, full-ish bodied palate it has caramel, vanilla, buttery, yellow apple, and peach flavours joined by some toasty oak spice notes. It's well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, while the spice notes give way to leesy minerals on the long, juicy finish. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Boutari The Authentic Assyrtiko 2023 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Assyrtiko from Macedonia in Northern Greece. It is a brand new arrival at the LCBO, landing in Ontario as part of the recent August 30 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by renowned, highly-respected, and historic Boutari wine company that was established in 1879 by Ioannis Boutaris in Naoussa, Macedonia, in Northern Greece. As one of Greece's most influential wineries, Ioannis built Naoussa's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar in 1906, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

The Boutari family wine business has been passed down along family lines since its founding, with Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, taking over the reins in the mid-1930s and laying down the foundation for years to come. In 1968, the two sons of Stelios - Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris - took over the winery and ventured into vine growing by purchasing a vineyard in Imathia. Together, the brothers propelled the family business to new heights and shaping it into what it is today. In 1978, Boutari inaugurated their new, state-of-the-art winery in Stenimachos, Naoussa, a facility which would go on to become their flagship winery as the centre of production, bottling, and ageing.

Boutari continued to grow and expand during the 1980s, while also highlighting Greece's various unique wine regions and vine-growing qualities. During this period, Boutari also experimented with the cultivation of Greek and international varieties to create a series of experimental wines, some of which are mainstays in the current portfolio. Boutari has garnered many accolades over the years, including being named European Winery of the Year in 2008 by Wine Enthusiast. In 2022, a new chapter began in the story of Boutari wineries as Elias and Thomas Georgiadis became key investors with a promise to preserve the heritage and further develop the Boutari name, while also continuing the long tradition of Boutari wineries.

This particular white wine is from their Varieties range - wines which are crafted with passion and love from the main wine producing regions of Greece. This white wine is crafted with 100% Assyrtiko that was grown in the mountainous areas of Florina and Pieria, in Macedonia of Northern Greece. The fruit was cultivated with a particular focus on low yields, and the timing of harvest in each vineyard was determined using a combination of both berry testing and analytical data. The grapes were harvested at the time of the day when temperatures were the lowest possible, and underwent strict manual sorting upon arriving at the winery. Completely vinified in tanks, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperatures using selected yeast strains, followed by stirring the fine lees post-fermentation until the wine was bottled.

The growing season in Northern Greece in 2023 began very dry, with an almost warm winter, followed by a nice, cold spring. There were some challenges due to a very wet June, along with heatwaves that stressed the vines in July. However, warm days and cool nights during harvest saved the vintage. Let's see how this 2023 Assyrtiko from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI THE AUTHENTIC ASSYRTIKO 2023 - PGI Macedonia, Greece (#44246) (XD) - $21.95
Fresh and lifted, the medium-high intensity nose wafts of lemon, grapefruit, citrus, herbs, floral blossom, and apple aromas with leesy mineral accents adding further complexity. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry, ripe, and gently honeyed with lemon, grapefruit, apple, blossom, leesy mineral, and spice flavours. It has fine, well-balanced acidity and a pleasing, textural mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Leesy mineral notes are more prominent on the back palate and carry through to the long, savoury mineral finish. A highly recommended buy that is ideal with seafood. Score: 90+ pts

A few lovely wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Monte Schiavo Ruviano Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2023 (Marche) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic and vegan Verdicchio from the DOC of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi in its native home of Marche. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving on shelves and online as part of the recent August 30th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Monte Schiavo wines are produced by Tenute Pieralisi, a family wine business that was established in the 1960s in the Marche wine region of Italy. The Pieralisi family are one of the most famous families of entrepreneurs and winemakers in the region of Marche. Innovation is in the family's DNA, as well as their attachment to the land and to the region. As innovators, Adeodato Pieralisi founded in 1888 the first workshop for the maintenance of agricultural machinery, and the passion for innovation has guided the family's path since that time.

The Pieralisi family is thankful for the land which is particularly suited to agriculture, and along with a cutting-edge process aimed at guaranteeing taste and quality, they are able to boast of excellence in wine production that is guided by the passion and experience of first-class oenologists and master winemakers. Moreover, their belief is that genuineness is key to a quality product. The Pieralisi family and the team are guided by a deep respect for the land and its natural processes, as well as by the conviction that authenticity at the origin is key to creating quality wines. All Pieralisi Estates are certified as Organic Farming and fully comply with the policy for the production of Vegan wines.

The story of the Monte Schiavo winery begins in 1978 as the Monte Schiavo Farmers' Co-operative. The winery is located in the commune of Maiolati Spontini, in the province of Ancona, in the heart of the traditional Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi region. Monte Schiavo's 115 hectares of vineyards are planted on bright, sun-drenched, south-to-southwest slopes of the gentle hilly spurs. In 1995, Monte Schiavo joined the Pieralisi group and is now a modern and dynamic wine company that produces a range of high-quality wines.

This white wine is crafted using 100% Verdicchio that was grown in private vineyards situated in the communes of Maiolati Spontini, Montecarotto, Poggio S. Marcello, and Rosora, within the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC of Marche. The vines were trained using the Guyot system and manually harvested in September, and underwent a traditional, temperature-controlled white wine vinification in stainless steel tanks to preserve the purity of the fruit and allow the varietal character to shine. Let's see how this 2023 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MONTE SCHIAVO RUVIANO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO 2023 - Vegan, DOC, Marche, Italy (#44279) (XD) - $16.95
Enclosed by screw crap, this organic Verdicchio has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose of lovely, zesty lemon citrus, apple, wild herbs, white floral, and spice aromas nuanced with touches of almond and mineral. The dry palate is medium+ weighted with fresh and lively acidity. Delicious, ripe and gently honeyed flavours of zesty lemon citrus, apple, white flowers, wild herbs, and almond. Some mineral notes appear on the textured mid-palate. More savoury on the lengthy finish with mineral and white floral notes joined by touches of spice. This recommended buy is ideal with seafood, poultry, salads, and vegetarian fare. Score: 89 pts

Other Monte Schiavo wines can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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