Featherstone Phoenix Gewürztraminer 2024 and Sauvignon Blanc 2024 and (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's white wine reviews are a pair of lovely, vegan-friendly, sustainable, and locally crafted wines from Niagara. Both of these wines were bottled at the beginning of February and arrived at the LCBO in the April 12th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

These wines are grown and produced locally by Niagara's own Featherstone Estate Winery. Established in 1999 by Dave Johnson and Louise Engel in the celebrated sub-appellation of Twenty Mile Bench in the Niagara Peninsula, Featherstone has a dedication to excellence in food and a passion for wine.

First planted in the 1970s, the grape crop from the Featherstone vineyard was sold to a large wine conglomerate until 1999, after which the first Featherstone wines were produced. The Riesling planted on the site in 1978 are some of the oldest Riesling vines in Niagara, while the Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc that were planted in 1986 continue to thrive. Today, the entire crop is bottled to produce Featherstone wines.

Featherstone has distinguished itself with pride in being insecticide-free since 1999 and are the practitioners of eco-friendly farming. Featherstone Winery farms naturally and cultivates wine sustainably, encouraging an environment that is healthy and completely unique, with a belief that this individuality translates into their wines. Beginning with the 2023 vintage, Featherstone has been certified sustainable by Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO), assuring wine drinkers that the complete grape-to-glass cycle is sustainable. Moreover, the SWO certification ensures that the grapes are grown and the Ontario VQA wine is crafted with sustainability at the forefront of each winery and vineyard's business philosophy.

In February 2024, Featherstone began a new chapter as Rayla and George Myhal acquired the winery from Dave and Louise. A transformative purchase in the year celebrating Featherstone's 25th anniversary, Rayla and George look to build on the successes of the past, while Dave and Louise look forward to their retirement.

The philosophy at Featherstone remains unchanged. As grape growing and winemaking are both scientific and intuitive processes, the wines are crafted to reflect the special character of the grapes, as well as the artistry of the winemaker, along with a focus on creating food-oriented, rich, clean, and brisk wines. Featherstone works throughout the growing season to enhance each grape's natural attributes, to ensure at harvest that the grapes will produce exceptional wines with minimal winemaking embellishments. They continue to use a small-lot, hands-on, artisanal approach to wine production. More than 20 years ago, Featherstone was one of the first wineries to use Canadian oak barrels, and Canadian oak continues to play an expanding role in many wines, including the Sauvignon Blanc.

Both grapes were completely harvested by the middle of October. The Sauvignon Blanc was crushed, destemmed and allowed to cold soak for 8 hours. 80% of the Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in stainless steel with a selected yeast strain, while the remainder underwent uncontrolled fermentation in neutral Canadian oak barrels. The Sauvignon Blanc was racked off lees several times before final fining. To craft the Gewürztraminer, the grapes were cold-soaked and fermented with a selected yeast strain. It was fermented at 15°C, then racked off gross lees immediately after fermentation was completed.

From an excellent 2024 growing season that produced grapes with plenty of ripeness and acidity that would yield wines with both concentration and freshness, let's see how these two white wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

FEATHERSTONE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#89011) (XD) - $17.95
The fresh, fragrant, and fairly intense nose delivers grassy, grapefruit, lemon citrus, apple, and white peach aromas accented with ripe tropical fruit and green herbs. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it shows impressive concentration and weight supporting the lovely grassy, grapefruit, lemon citrus, and ripe tropical fruit flavours. It has a finely textured mouthfeel and juicy, food-friendly acidity. Clean and well-balanced, it has ripe tropical fruit, grapefruit, and lemon citrus notes on the long, fruity, crisp, and textured finish. Score: 90 pts

FEATHERSTONE PHOENIX GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2024 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#519025) (D) - $18.95
Seems a bit shy at the moment, offering a medium+ intensity nose of honeydew melon, lychee, and rose petal aromas layered over ripe lemon citrus and apple. Rosewater aromas emerge with time in the glass and gain prominence. On the gently sweet, medium-full bodied palate it has delicious, honeyed flavours of ginger spice, rosewater, honeydew melon, lemon zest flavours accented with apricot and grapefruit notes. Framed by fresh and lively acidity, it also has a fairly richly textured mouthfeel. Some spice notes give way to honeyed, lemon zest, and lychee on the long, savoury, and leesy mineral finish. Bottled only a couple of months ago, this has room to improve and grow and will be even better after a few years in the cellar. Should drink nicely into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

There are many lovely wines by Featherstone available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery online, or by visiting them in Niagara.