Yalumba Galway Vintage Shiraz 2023 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Barossa Shiraz that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story about Women in Wine in the recent March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Yalumba, one of Australia's most historically important wineries. Recognized as Australia's oldest continuously family-owned winery, Yalumba was founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith when he planted his first vines in the heart of the Barossa with a genuine respect for the land and a willingness to venture into the unknown.

As Yalumba has always had a deep connection to the Barossa, their long-term vision is manifested in their marble and sandstone Clocktower - a solid monument that is their commitment to the region. Their passion is displayed by their Cooperage, which is the only one of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere, where they continue a proud tradition of crafting barrels.

In 1893, Fred Caley Smith, the third generation of the family, took to the seas on a grand scientific discovery and returned with progressive horticultural developments that laid the foundation for sustainable viticulture and winemaking at Yalumba.

Today, Yalumba is in the hands of the fifth and sixth generations of the Hill-Smith family. As custodians, they have enormous respect for the generations that came before them, and also realize that a family wine business doesn't thrive across three centuries by standing still, and that change is a constant. The family spends most of their time looking forward and always strive to innovate and reduce their impact on the environment. The winemaking philosophy at Yalumba is based on minimal intervention, which includes organic and vegan-friendly practices, as well as wild fermentation.

The team at Yalumba is led by Robert Hill-Smith, the fifth generation of the family. Robert led Yalumba into the modern era by cementing their reputation as an internationally-focused and innovative wine business. He pioneered Viognier in Australia and established Australia's First Families of Wine. Sisters Jessica and Lucy Hill-Smith, daughters of Robert and the sixth generation, have also joined the family business, with Jessica taking on the role of General Manager of PR & Communications, while Lucy is based in the UK as a Fine Wine Ambassador.

At Yalumba, the winemaking team is led by Head Winemaker Sam Wigan, along with Louisa Rose, who is also a Winemaker and Head of Sustainability. Louisa is featured on page 20 of the Vintages Catalogue and is the reason for the inclusion on the feature about Women in Wine. Louisa joined Yalumba in 1992 and is one of Australia's most respected winemakers. She has gained international recognition as a pioneer for her work with Viognier and cool-climate Riesling, as well as her passion and push for sustainable viticulture without synthetic insecticides. Over the years, Yalumba has won 43 accolades for their sustainable practices, including the International Award of Excellence for Sustainable Wine Growing & the International Green Apple Gold Award, with Louisa playing an instrumental role.

First crafted in 1943, the Galway Shiraz is named after Lord Galway who served as Governor of South Australia. Lord Galway was an enthusiastic supporter of the local wine industry, particularly Yalumba and the broader Barossa wine community. To craft this 100% Shiraz, the grapes were sourced from various vineyards throughout the renowned Barossa wine region, from terroirs ranging from sandy soils to sandy loam, and from red-brown earth over red clay, which are ideal for growing expressive Shiraz. The grapes were harvested in March and April 2023, traditionally vinified, and then matured in French oak for 6–8 weeks.

The growing season during this vintage began with wet soils from abundant rainfall, along with cooler than average temperatures in September and October. This delayed the growing season by several weeks, and was joined by windy conditions during flowering, which resulted in lower fruit set at some vineyards. A relatively mild summer allowed the grapes to thrive, resulting in an elegantly restrained wine with character and charm. From a low-yielding, cool-climate year yielding high-quality and elegant wines, let's see how this 2023 Barossa Shiraz is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

YALUMBA GALWAY VINTAGE SHIRAZ 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Barossa, South Australia (#41311) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, the medium-high intensity nose leads with savoury earth and slightly meaty aromas layered over an attractive and complex mix of black pepper spice, ripe dark red fruits, black cherry, cassis, plum, and black currant notes with a touch of oak. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with lovely, well-balanced flavours of dark red fruit, currant, cassis, black pepper spice, plum, savoury earth, gentle oak spice, and touches of smoky mineral. It's well-structured with elegant and mildly grippy tannins that are supple, smooth, and refined. Acids are fresh and juicy. A touch tangy with currant, cassis, and peppery spice notes tapering to savoury, smoky mineral notes on the long, juicy, and well-balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Several wines by Yalumba are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Kir-Yianni Cuvée Villages Xinomavro 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a terrific, vegan-friendly Xinomavro from Greece that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Kir-Yianni is the producer of this lovely Greek red wine. The highly-regarded wine producer was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, a legendary winemaker and Greek wine maverick who also represented the 4th generation of the famed Boutaris winemaking family.

As a visionary and innovator, Mr. Boutaris' career path seemed predestined, leading to studies in Chemistry and Oenology. By1970, Yiannis left his family's wine business to chart his own path, eventually settling in the eastern foothills of Mt. Vermion, Yianakohori, near the town of Naoussa, where he planted 40 hectares of Xinomavro vines. This single vineyard planting of Xinomavro was the pioneering viticulture which both inspired and jolted the status quo in Greek winemaking, and also marked a new era in Greek winemaking which rejuvenated the region and empowered local growers.

This vineyard would go on to become Ktima Kir-Yianni - a name that was chosen because everyone used to call him "Kir", which meant "Sir" in Greek. Thus, the name Kir-Yianni was born. After planting more vines over the years, Yiannis would go on to purchase an old winery in 1996 in the village of Agios Panteleimon. This winery was completely rebuilt and inaugurated a year later to become the new Ktima Kir-Yianni.

In 1999, Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, became Managing Director, and he was joined soon thereafter by his brother, Mihalis. There was intense experimentation and research on the Xinomavro varietal during this period, which led to replanting and acquisition of vineyards. In 2004, Stellios took over the family business as CEO and winemaker. Today, the philosophy at Kir-Yianni is a fine balance between a hundred-year-long family tradition and the use of new and innovative winemaking techniques, with the aim of producing appealing wines that reflect the potential of the Greek vineyard and its indigenous varieties. Furthermore, activities in the vineyard and at the winery are based on the principles of integrated farming and protecting the environment. At Kir-Yianni, sustainability is both a philosophy and a vital business decision that entails dedication, realism, and systematic investment, and in 2023 they started their journey to carbon neutrality.

Like the 2021 Kir-Yianni Cuvée Villages Xinomavro I enjoyed around this time last year, this red wine is crafted with 100% Xinomavro. As the name suggests, the "Cuvée Villages" is a strict selection of grapes from younger vines grown on the Estate and parcels from small winegrowers across the PDO zone of Naoussa. The villages of Naoussa offer an interesting and diverse mix of hilly terrain with variations in altitude, slope, soil structure, and orientation. This wine by Kir-Yianni is a wine enthusiast's introduction to the great richness of the viticultural and winemaking traditions of the region, as well as the dynamics of Xinomavro in its heartland terroir.

To craft this Xinomavro, the grapes were harvested from the end of September, cooled to 10°C, then underwent a rigorous grape selection on a conveyor belt. After cold-soaking for 6 days at low temperatures, it underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 12 to 15 days at temperatures of 20–23°C. Malolactic fermentation and maturation took place in mainly 225 litre and 500 litre French oak barrels, in a combination of both new and 3rd-to-5th fill used barrels, for 12 months. The first blend was made on the 6th month of maturation. After bottling, the wine is further matured for 12 months in the cellar prior to release.

In 2022, the season began with a cold winter and snowy mountain tops, along with rain which contributed to the increase of bud fertility, as well as the enrichment of the aqueous horizon with water. Spring started colder and was drier than usual, which resulted in a later, but even budbreak. Summer featured mild temperatures, apart from a heatwave in the first half of August. September began with 100 mm of heavy rain and continued with almost 40 days of high daytime temperatures and cool nights. From a very good to excellent vintage, let's see how this 2022 Xinomavro from Naoussa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KIR-YIANNI CUVÉE VILLAGES XINOMAVRO 2022 - Vegan, PDO Naoussa, Greece (#14151) (XD) - $21.95
This 100% Xinomavro has a lovely, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that is open with ripe red berry, cherry, tomato, and Damson plum nuanced with hints of rose floral, tar, dried cherry, earth, and sweet spice adding elegance and complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has ripe, Damson plum, red berry, tomato, savoury earth, and sweet spice flavours in a gently spicy profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the well-structured tannins are refined and finely textured with a gentle grip. Cherry and tomato notes taper to earthy and oak notes with touches of mineral on the long, savoury, and crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Quite a few wines by Kir-Yianni are available online and in a couple of stores in the GTA, and can also be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc 2024 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic, and vegan-friendly white wine blend crafted with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. It arrived at the LCBO in today's March 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Maison Raymond, a family winery based in the commune of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, in the heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region, about 50 km southeast of Bordeaux. The roots of Maison Raymond begin in 1850 when the first generation of the Raymond family settled in the region and practiced winegrowing at Château de Lagarde.

In 1980, Jean-Pierre Raymond, the 6th generation of the family, took over the business and converted 100% of the family farm to wine production. In total, Jean-Pierre converted 30 hectares of crops exclusively into vineyard land, a number which grew as he expanded Château de Lagarde to 260 hectares of mixed farming across the communes of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Felix, and Saint-Martial.

Organic farming at Maison Raymond was introduced when Lionel Raymond, son of Jean-Pierre, joined the family business in 2000. Lionel expanded the vineyard area at the estate from 70 hectares to 180 hectares, while also acquiring new (and organic) properties. As Lionel had strong respect for the environment and terroir, he was convinced that organic was the way to move forward and proceeded to convert all 130 hectares of vines at Maison Raymond to organic viticulture. As a result, the Raymond family was one of the very first in Bordeaux to convert their entire estate to organic farming, with a firm commitment to sustainability and soil health. As a pioneer and visionary with nearly 250 hectares of certified organic vineyards, Maison Raymond is now the largest independent organic winery in France.

The winemaking philosophy at Raymond is based upon a relentless pursuit of quality and innovation, a set of values that have been passed down through the generations to produce exceptional and authentic wines. In 2010, the Lagarde wine cellar was completely renovated and features over 6000 m² of state-of-the-art equipment. As the largest sustainable wine development project at the time, they also installed 2500 m² of photovoltaic panels on the roof to generate renewable electricity.

I've enjoyed previous vintages of this white wine, including most recently the 2022 Les Hauts de Lagarde Blanc a couple of years ago. It is produced using a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sémillon. The grapes were grown organically on hillside sites within the commune of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, on clay-limestone soil with gravels. The vineyard experiences a mild climate due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, and also receives lots of sunshine and regular rainfall. The vines were trained using Bordeaux tradition of the double Guyot system, which also helps the grapes reach maturity and avoid phytosanitary disease. It was traditionally vinified in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, without any oak ageing.

The 2024 growing season in Bordeaux was an uneven and challenging vintage that featured rain, rain, and more rain, which led to problems with downy mildew, coulure, and millerandage. However, white wines found great success and consistency in this challenging vintage with freshness, good concentration, and expressive aromas. White wine varieties benefitted from the less extreme temperatures of the year and cooler nighttime temperatures in August and September. Vineyards on earlier-ripening sites and clay-based soils also benefitted from this low-yielding vintage. From a good vintage for white wines in Bordeaux, let's see how this 2024 Bordeaux Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES HAUTS DE LAGARDE BLANC 2024 - Vegan, AOC Bordeaux, France (#387787) (XD) - $19.95
Equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, this organic white wine has a delicate, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers attractively ripe and gently honeyed aromas of lemon peel, citrus, yellow apple, quince, and hay with touches of white floral. On dry, medium-full bodied palate it is impressively dense and concentrated with delicious citrus, yellow apple, waxy, and quince flavours in a slightly tart profile, plus white floral and leesy minerals adding a pleasant savoury component. Acids are juicy and fresh. With a nicely textured mouthfeel, the citrus and orchard fruit notes taper to savoury, leesy minerals, plus a touch of dried spice on the long and juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy with seafood, salad, creamy cheeses, or poultry. Score: 89 pts

One other wine by Maison Raymond is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Cap Royal Rouge Bordeaux Supérieur 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a vegan-friendly and terrific Merlot-based red wine from Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the February 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cap Royal, a wine brand that is owned by wine merchant Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus. Over the last 35 years, the wine merchant has established itself as a key player in the Bordeaux wine trade, both in France and abroad. Médocaine des Grands Crus is a subsidiary of AXA Millésimes, which is the wine business unit of AXA Group. As a company that includes some of the world's finest Châteaux, they listen to their customers and does its utmost to assure their clients of top-quality wines.

Cap Royal owes its name to Cordouan lighthouse, which is the oldest lighthouse in Europe. The lighthouse is situated at the mouth of the Gironde estuary and has always had a bleak reputation due to the perilous nature of the area. Originally built in 1360, the lighthouse has evolved over the centuries to become "The Versailles of the Sea" and was classified as a historic monument in 1862. In 2021, it was officially listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is nicknamed "King of Lighthouses" or "Lighthouse of Kings."

The team at Cap Royal is led by Pierre Montégut, a highly respected winemaker who began his career in winemaking in 1988. Pierre has worked for various prized Château across France and became Technical Director of Château Suduiraut in 2004, a position he still holds today. There are only two wines in this brand, and for Pierre, Cap Royal is a new philosophy and a new challenge: to select the best and create wines of pleasure wine that can be enjoyed by wine lovers all over the world.

When compared with the excellent 2018 Cap Royal Rouge I enjoyed over four years ago, this particular vintage is a blend of the same two grape varieties, but with a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon (up 5%) this time around and composed of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from lots predominantly in the Médoc which were selected for their quality and complexity by Pierre Montégut with winemaker partners. The grapes were fermented in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, and carefully aged in oak barrels under the regular supervision of Pierre.

The growing season in 2022 produced a legendary vintage in Bordeaux. It began with a cool and dry winter, with conditions persisting throughout spring, which allowed for both an early and successful budburst and flowering. April delivered the usual frosts, while June had significant hailstorms which cut yields. Temperatures continued to rise, with drought conditions settling in, and July was the driest in decades. Prominent heatwaves with virtually no rain from July onward meant the grapes reached phenolic ripeness very easily. Cool nights provided some relief from the heat. Most vineyards managed to escape the wrath of the July and August wildfires as the grapes already had thick skins at that point. Harvest began for the ripest Merlot at the beginning of September. From a vintage that produced exceptionally fine fruit, let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAP ROYAL ROUGE BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2022 - Vegan, AOC, France (#486761) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a fresh, lifted, and medium-high intensity nose of ripe black & red berry fruit, currant, cassis, black cherry, blackberry, and grilled herb aromas nuanced with gentle cedar oak and touches of smoky mineral and savoury earth. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it has lovely, well-balanced, currant, cassis, blackberry, and black cherry flavours leyered over savoury earth and smoky minerals, plus grilled herb accents. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the structured and approachable tannins have good bones for ageing. It's gently grippy on the back palate, while berry notes give way to savoury earth and smoky minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Very few of the bottles of the Cap Royal White are currently available at the LCBO, but may be readily available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Atrevida Chardonnay 2023 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, unoaked Chardonnay from Argentina that landed at the LCBO as a brand-new arrival in last month's January 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Atrevida, which translates to "daring" in English, is a range of wines from Argentina produced by Manos Negras for the export market. Manos Negras is one of a number of winery projects owned by Mil Suelos, a project that began as a collaboration in the early 2010s between three Argentine wine professionals - Alejandro Sejanovich, Jeff Mausbach, and Jorge Crotta.

Today, the founders of Mil Suelos remain with the company as they make wine, experiment, taste, share, and above all, express places. Their philosophy is based on the belief that every wine should reflect the site where it is born, because it is the soil that gives it identity. They strive to capture the essence of each place through its land, while also exploring how each soil type imparts its character to the vine and, ultimately, to the wine. Moreover, it is the connection between soil, vine, and wine where the true expression of place is found, thus allowing each bottle to tell its own story of origin. At Mil Suelos, every wine is born from a unique terroir using grapes from their own vineyards or those from winegrowers who they have worked with for many years.

Born and raised in Mendoza, Alejandro is a viticulturalist and winemaker with experience working in some of Argentina's finest vineyards. He explores the relationship between the soil and vine to enhance the identity of each terroir and transform it into fine wine. Jeff arrived in Mendoza from the American Midwest in the 1990s and has a deep passion for the world of winemaking. As commercial director at Mil Suelos, Jeff has worked tirelessly to develop international markets and share his love for Argentine wine across the globe. As an educator and marketer born in Mendoza, Jorge has dedicated his career to promoting Argentine wine worldwide with passion and professionalism.

While there isn't very much info published about the brand, the range of Atrevida wines are daring, bold, adventurous, and represent the passionate spirit of Argentina. The brand has existed for about 15 years and offers a unique combination of Old World European elegance with a spicy Latin twist as Argentine culture is animated and passionate.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in high altitude vineyards at 3,500 feet in the Uco Valley of Mendoza. The vineyards are nestled in the foothills of the mighty Andes and planted on well-drained alluvial soils, with a combination of stones rich with limestone, sand, gravel, and silt. The cool, sunny days produce fruit with bright green apple and pear flavours, while the cold mountain nights result in a fresh and crisp texture. The grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation for 12 days in stainless steel tanks, and without malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and did not see any time in oak.

With recent years in Argentina influenced by La Niña, which left the country in a state of drought, including the winter months which were unnaturally dry but with some polar influences, the 2023 growing season turned out to be a roller coaster of a vintage. It began with spring frosts that attacked nascent buds during budburst, which massively cut yields in parts of the country. Once the icy frosts receded, the season settled into warm and dry days, followed by a summer that was among the hottest and driest in years, which resulted in the grapes ripening very quickly. Vineyards situated at high-altitudes - such as those where this Chardonnay is from - benefitted from great diurnal temperature variation between hot days and cool nights, which allowed the grapes to retain acidity and aromatics. Due to the heat, the harvest was relatively early. From a good vintage with reduced quantity, let's see how this 2023 unoaked Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ATREVIDA CHARDONNAY 2023 - Vegan, Mendoza, Argentina (#46402) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this unoaked Chardonnay has a medium+ intensity nose of ripe apple and pear aromas joined by lemon citrus, plus whiffs of tropical fruit and flinty-leesy minerals, earthy, and a hint of dough adding a savoury component. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it offers delicious more ripe apple, pear, lemon citrus, plus some peach and spice notes. It has crisp and bracing acidity, while lemon citrus notes taper to flinty-leesy minerals on the savoury finish, with very good length. Chill well and enjoy this recommended buy tonight with seafood or poultry. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines from the Atrevida portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Kacaba Reserve Riesling 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Ahead of International Riesling Day, which is now less than a month away on March 13th, tonight's white wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly, and off-dry Riesling from Niagara-on-the-Lake that arrived at the LCBO in last month's January 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

From the same producer as the excellent 2021 Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah I enjoyed late last year, this white wine is produced by Kacaba Vineyards & Winery, a small-batch, premium wine producer situated in the community of Vineland, within the Town of Lincoln in the Niagara Region of Ontario. It was established in 1997 by Michael Kacaba, a Bay St. lawyer in Toronto of Ukrainian descent and a Saskatchewan background, on land that was slated to be a subdivision. However, Mr. Kacaba had another vision for this land and began the work to establish a vineyard and winery, and in 1999 Kacaba had their first vintage, with consistent success following soon thereafter.

While Mr. Kacaba is no longer the owner of the winery, his philosophy remains the same - focus on smaller batch sizes to produce wines of merit. Kacaba wines are produced using only the finest grapes grown on the estate or from partnered grape growers from surrounding vineyards. Their philosophy is dependent upon small quantities because their production is limited by their ability to handle and manage quantities that can be produced mainly by hand. Pumping is kept to a minimum and gravity is used for bottling and racking. Interestingly, their simple methodology is implemented by lifting their tanks and barrels with a forklift. While their goal is to produce ultra-premium wines, it is also a necessity for them to produce moderately priced wines to ensure the business is economically sustainable. Kacaba also strives to encourage sustainable agriculture, which involves not only good husbandry of their lands, but also the proposition that agriculture is a valuable resource and ought to be maintained for future generations.

I enjoyed the 2017 Kacaba Reserve Riesling a couple of years ago, and while that wine was sourced from grapes grown on the Niagara Escarpment, for this particular vintage the grapes are from the Niagara Lakeshore sub-appellation in the warmer Niagara-on-the-Lake.

The grapes for this Riesling were carefully tended to along the lakeshore in Niagara-on-the-Lake and left to hang into November in order to concentrate the flavours and allow the acidity to come down on the vine. After picking the grapes overnight on November 2nd, while temperatures were low, the grapes were brought to the winery and immediately pressed upon arrival in the morning. The juice was settled at a very low temperature for 48 hours prior to racking, then allowed to warm up for a long, cool fermentation at approximately 13°C to allow tropical fruit and mineral notes to emerge. After 18 days, fermentation was arrested, leaving some remaining residual grape sugars to add further complexity and balance to the wine. The wine then rested in stainless steel tanks for 7 months, until it was bottled in June 2024.

The growing season in 2023 in Niagara was saved by a dry and warm fall that provided relief from the wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer. While harvest was behind by up to almost three weeks, most varieties came out the other side in good shape and produced a bountiful crop. For Riesling, the warm days and cool nights prior to harvest were the perfect conditions to develop vibrant fruit and juicy acidity, which should allow Riesling wines to age gracefully for many years. From a superb vintage for this noble grape, let's see how this 2023 Riesling from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KACABA RESERVE RIESLING 2023 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#404087) (D) - $24.15
Enclosed by screw cap, the lovely, fragrant, medium-high to highly aromatic nose delivers an attractive mix of petrol, wet stone, white peach, and floral aromas nuanced with lemon oil, stone fruit, apple, and bees wax complexity. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate has very good structure and a gently off-dry flavour profile of lemon oil, citrus, wet stone, leesy mineral, grapefruit, white peach, and apple flavours, plus a mild spice note. It has crisp, structured, and juicy acidity, while peach and lemon notes taper to leesy and wet stone flavours on the long, dry, and juicy finish. An elevated experience that will continue to provide pleasure into the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

A few wines by Kacaba are readily available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery online and in Niagara.

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Spy Valley E Block Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, certified sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Waihopai Valley in Marlborough. It arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Spy Valley Wines, a family-owned winery located deep in the Waihopai Valley, within the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. It was established by Bryan and Jan Johnson in 1993, during a time of discovery and courage in Marlborough when it was thought that the area was too hard, too dry, and too unfertile for winegrowing. The Johnson couple had the audacity and passion for the land to establish 180 hectares of estate vineyards, and with a pioneering spirit, Spy Valley would go on to become one of New Zealand's most successful family-run wineries.

The name "Spy Valley" is inspired by the winery's proximity to a government communications facility that is often referred to as a spy base. As Bryan and Jan stepped away from the winery, it was their daughter, Amanda Johnson, who took over and became Managing Director of Spy Valley. As the daughter of the founding family, Amanda has Spy Valley in her blood. She is passionate about looking after the land and for future generations, and knows how crucial sustainability is to both Spy Valley and the wine industry.

Sustainability has been a core value at Spy Valley since the winery's founding. They know that when you work on land as exceptional as this, you protect it. Spy Valley also knows that their environment is one of the many secrets to their success, as it has sustained generations, and it is their job to nurture it for many more. Since 1999, Spy Valley has been proudly accredited under the New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing scheme, which promotes economically and environmentally sustainable vineyard management. Spy Valley proudly was one of Marlborough's first wineries to be certified under this program.

Spy Valley has several ranges of wines in their portfolio, and this white wine is from their Block Range. The Block Range is a refined and complex range of wines that are crafted using grapes from unique single blocks on their estate, which were selected for their flavour and structure. One can expect wines from the Block Range to deliver terroir, typicity, and an element of craft.

This particular white wine is from Spy Valley's Block Range and is crafted using 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown on the estate in Waihopai Valley, where the geology is stony, seismic, and on an ancient glacial riverbed, and the soil is composed of alluvial stony silt loams. The viticulturalist was Adam McCone, and winemakers were Wendy Stuckey and Emily Gaspard-Clark. The grapes were harvested at peak flavour maturity from their E Block Vineyard Block in the Waihopai Valley. It underwent gentle juice extraction, and was cold settled and fermented in a combination of 80% in stainless steel tanks and 20% in French oak barrels, with a range of aromatic yeasts. The wine remained on its fine yeast lees for 6 months before blending and bottling.

The growing season in Waihopai Valley experienced an excellent flowering period and consistent rainfall, which resulted in even crops and healthy canopies. The weather leading up to harvest was slightly cooler than recent years, which meant that the start of harvest was a bit later and allowed the fruit to get extra "hang time" and develop more flavours across all varieties. While the crop was slightly smaller than the previous bumper crop season, the fruit was perfectly ripened during the steady, low-stress harvest. At Spy Valley, the 2023 growing season was a great success with a year of collaboration, innovation, and exceptional quality. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Waihopai Valley in Marlborough, New Zealand, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SPY VALLEY E BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#36874) (XD) - $21.95
The fragrant, highly aromatic nose wafts of limey citrus, gooseberry, white peach, and leesy mineral aromas nuanced with grapefruit, lemon citrus, guava, passion fruit, green herb, and spice notes. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with good density and concentration and delivers ripe, lime/lemon citrus, grapefruit, floral, gooseberry, white peach, and guava flavours, plus notions leesy mineral, spice, and green herb, all supported by fresh and creamy acidity. It's well-balanced throughout with citrus and tropical fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, fresh, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Spy Valley are available (some in small quantities) at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Featherstone Red Tail Merlot 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, certified sustainable and vegan Merlot from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as a Smart Buy in the January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2023 Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay I enjoyed a few months ago, this red wine is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery that was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson. Featherstone is located on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment, and prides itself on its eco-friendly farming practices, which have been in place since Featherstone's founding.

The vision at Featherstone has always been to produce distinctive, small-batch wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. Since the beginning, the philosophy has been based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and without the use of insecticides, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. In 2023, Featherstone received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

In 2024, after twenty-five successful years, Featherstone changed hands and is now under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal. The team at Featherstone has a common dedication to excellence in food and a passion for wine. In addition to building upon the successes of the past, Rayla and George are also using their background in philanthropy to help uplift the surrounding community and have set an ambitious goal to give back 10% of all profits to local charities in the area.

As winemaking and grape growing are both scientific and intuitive processes, Featherstone wines reflect the special character of the grapes, as well as the artistry of the winemaker. Kevin is still the senior winemaker at Featherstone, while the other winemaker is Kevin Qin, who has been with Featherstone since 2016.

Named after the graceful and swift, red-tailed hawks that fly above the vineyards in Niagara, this red wine is composed of 100% Merlot. The grapes were machine harvested by October 26th and optically sorted to separate the ripest grapes, then cold soaked on the skins for 5 days and underwent alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts in their climate-controlled cellar. The wine also underwent complete malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels (25% new) from Tonnellerie Sirgue-Nuits Saint Georges, with monthly lees stirring.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was saved by a dry and warm fall that provided relief from the wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer. While harvest was behind normal schedule by up to three weeks, the end result was a bountiful crop with high-quality grapes. Merlot exhibits fine acidity and phenolic ripeness, alongside ripe tannic structure, and will be enjoyable both in the near and long term. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Merlot from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#131540) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this Merlot has fragrant, medium-high intensity aromatics that deliver ripe red & black berried notes of currant, cassis, cherry, mocha chocolate, and earth, plus touches of cedar oak and green herbs. The dry, mid-weighted palate has delicious currant, cassis, black cherry, chocolate, earth, and cedar oak flavours in a well-balanced profile. Acids are crisp and balanced, while the tannins are smooth and refined, with a fine, dusty texture. Savoury earth and chocolate notes lead to a tangy finish, with very good length. Smart buy! Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Villacreces Pruno 2022 and 2011 (Ribera del Duero) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely Tempranillo-based wines from the DO of Ribera del Duero in Spain. The 2022 vintage of this organic red wine arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the mini-feature on wines from Ribera del Duero.

The 2011 Pruno is a bottle I purchased over a decade ago from the September 28, 2013 LCBO VINTAGES Release. While my notes indicated that I probably should've opened this a few years ago, I figured this would be as good a time as any to open it back-to-back with the current vintage.

Both of these wines are produced by Finca Villacreces, a renowned estate winery situated in Spain's Ribera del Duero wine region with a history dating back to at least 1350, when Pedro de Villacreces, a Franciscan friar, was the first documented resident on the estate. Along with a group of ministers, Pedro cultivated the land, including a small vineyard that was used to make wine for their own use and nearby monasteries.

In 1836, the estate came into private hands, and soon thereafter it held rights over the waters of the Duero river. In the early 20th century, the estate was sold to the Cuadrado family from Valladolid. The Cuadrado family used the estate for various agricultural and recreational purposes, including housing illustrious guests. One of these guests was Peter Sisseck, who used the winery and part of the vineyard to craft the notable Flor de Pingus.

In 2004, the Cuadrado family sold the estate to the father and son team of Gonzalo and Lalo Antón, who already owned wineries in Rioja and Toro. After three years of remodelling and painstaking work to restore the vineyard, Finca Villacreces was once again inaugurated. In 2017, the acquisition of Pinos Claros, within the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero, extended the estate's reach to 275 hectares of vineyards, 90% of which are organically farmed.

Today, Finca Villacreces is situated in the heart of Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, amidst a 200-year-old pine forest and bathed to the north by the Duero River. This unique place brings landscape, tradition, and charm together, with a vineyard that is divided into 15 plots that are interspersed with a centenary pine forest. The vineyard at Finca Villacreces is unique because it is conditioned by the diversity of poor soil, which ranges from extremely sandy areas near the pines to the very stony terrain where pebbles from the alluvial deposition of the Duero river predominate.

Finca Villacreces is a 110-hectare estate, with 64 hectares of vineyards. Situated at 700 metres above sea level, the vineyard is subject to an extreme climate with large temperature fluctuations, long winters, and dry summers with low rainfall. However, the surrounding forest protects Finca Villacreces from the most aggressive climatic conditions. The focus at Finca Villacreces is for quality-focused and integrated viticulture, where the vine's natural condition is controlled and preserved in order to obtain wines with the unique Villacreces typicity and personality. Sustainability is also a focus at Finca Villacreces, with some of these initiatives being vineyard adaptation, support for biodiversity, sustainable packaging, and reduction of carbon footprint.

The 2022 vintage of this red wine is crafted with 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot, from grapes grown among the 64 hectares of vineyards located on the estates of Finca Villacreces and Pinos Claros. The average age of the vines is 25 years, and they are trained using a trellis system with light pines. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks with double pissage (bleed off the juice to increase concentration of colour, tannins, and flavour), followed by malolactic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tank, oak fermentation vat, and oak barrels. The wine was aged for 10 months in 75% French and 25% American second- and third-use oak.

The growing season in Ribera del Duero in 2022 was marked by the absence of rain and remarkably hot temperatures, which resulted in irregular ripening levels. While the grapes were healthy, they did exhibit below average weight with a higher ratio of skin to pulp. This also allowed producers to pick at their chosen time, which will play a key role in defining the individual wine styles. It was a long harvest with the last Tempranillo picked in mid-November. From a very good vintage with wines displaying very good structure and complexity, let's see how this 2022 Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VILLACRECES PRUNO 2022 - Vegan, DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe, dark berried, black cherry, currant, and sweet vanillan oak aromas surrounding a core of plum and accented with floral violet. The dry, medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe dark berry, black cherry, and currant flavours in a spicy profile. More savoury on the mid-palate with cedary oak, earth, and mineral notes. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with chalky, drying, and almost astringent tannins. Savoury earth and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, dry finish. Recommended buy that is best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Score: 89 pts

FINCA VILLACRECES PRUNO 2011 - DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon pours a very dark purple colour. It has savoury spice, leather, and mature, stewed black fruit aromas rising out of the glass with medium+ to medium-high intensity. Savoury wet earth and sandalwood with touches of dried herb and black currant add nuance, interest, and complexity. The medium-bodied palate is spicy with savoury black fruit, currant, leather, sandalwood, and dried herb flavours. Acids are still quite refresh, while the textured tannins are slightly astringent and drying. Alcohol peeks through slightly on the mid-palate, while savoury earth and woody notes linger on the long and slightly tangy finish. Past prime with little room for further improvement. Serve at cool, red wine temperature and enjoy now! Really smooth and pleasantly mature on the 2nd day. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Finca Villacreces can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2022 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a beautiful, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Langhe DOC in Piedmont that arrived at LCBO outlets across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 6th - with bottles still available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Vietti, a prestigious and historic estate winery situated in the village of Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo wine region of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It was established in the 1800s by Carlo Vietti, then taken over in 1917 by his son, Mario, who transformed the family farm into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high-quality wines.

In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, took Vietti to new heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture. The ambition, foresight, and pioneering spirit of Alfredo helped create in 1961 one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione, followed a few years later by their first Roero Arneis. Matched with artist labels in 1974, the Vietti brand became an icon and standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of the time.

In the 1980s, the winery was taken over by Mario Cordero, the son-in-law of Luciana and Alfredo. And in the 1990s, Mario was joined by the son of Luciana and Alfredo, Luca Currado Vietti, and Luca's wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

Today, Vietti is owned by the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2016 and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Vietti family is no longer involved in this project as both Luca and Elena left in 2023, the Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins. Their values are based on, among other things, territory, craftsmanship, quality research, human capital, and sustainability. The place where the vision of wine and the vineyard is an expression of the intelligence of the hands, and that preserving the craftsmanship is essential to wine and its production. The Vietti manifesto is to always improve, respect nature's own pace, take care of tradition and of those that help safeguard it, and cultivate sustainability. The aim is to obtain identity-based wines capable of withstanding the test of time.

Like the 2020 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo I enjoyed in 2024, this red wine is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites, mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. After harvesting, the grapes were brought to the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation for about 3–4 weeks at a controlled temperature between 28°C–32°C, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel was vinified and aged separately until the lots that will be used for Langhe Nebbiolo and those that will continue to age for Barolo, are selected. The parcels for Langhe Nebbiolo were aged for about 18–20 months in barriques and large barrels, then blended in steel prior to bottling. This wine is considered to be a "second Barolo", and the name "Perbacco" comes from the Italian exclamation "Per Bacco!", which translates roughly to "By Bacchus", the Roman god of wine. Perbacco symbolizes wine, pleasure, and celebration.

The 2022 growing season is noted for being the driest and among the hottest in Piedmont's history. The region was already lacking water and barely received any precipitation between December 2021 and the beginning of May 2022. The arid conditions persisted through summer, which resulted in small vines producing small clusters. Vital in this vintage were soil and canopy management in order to preserve any moisture and protect the grapes from sunburn. From a vintage with slightly reduced yields and, given the climatic conditions, surprising balance and acidity, let's see how this 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $42.95
100% Nebbiolo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal pretty and gently perfumed aromas of rose floral, red cherry, and sweet spices with hints of orange peel and leafy herb. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite firmly structured with lovely red cherry, rose floral, sweet spice, cinnamon, and savoury earth flavours with leafy herb accents. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the structured tannins have some youthful grip. Subtle spice notes on the mid-palate, while savoury earth notes take over on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now with protein, but I would tuck this away for 3-4 years and enjoy to the early-mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Estate Papaioannou Saint George Agiorgitiko 2019 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic and vegan-friendly Agiorgitiko from Nemea in Greece. It arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estate Papaioannou, a small, family-owned Greek winery situated in Ancient Nemea, within the Peloponnese wine region of southern Greece. While the Papaioannou family has deep viticultural roots in Nemea going back to the 19th century, the modern estate winery was established in the 1950s by Thanasis Papaioannou.

Mr. Papaioannou was one of the first wine producers who understood and promoted the idea that wine must maintain its unique characteristics - the grape variety, the vineyard's location, as well as the work in the vineyard, while ensuring biological balance. The family has about 60 hectares of private vineyards located in various vineyard plots within Nemea, and are planted to both Greek and international varieties. All the family's vineyards are 100% organically cultivated, with the aim of achieving ultimate harmony with the ecosystem. Thanasis Papaioannou passed away in 2019 at the age of 92.

George Papaioannou, son of Thanasis, carries on his father's tradition. As a chemist-oenologist, George is creatively active in his own vineyards, as well as in the modern winery of Ancient Nemea. The goal is for the continuous improvement of the wines produced, maintain the highest standards of hygiene and organic characteristics, as well as experiment with new types of wines. With vineyards situated in different areas of Nemea, which are characterized by differences in the ecosystem and age of the vines, the result is wines of multi-dynamism. The quality of the wine is further enhanced by the correct selection of a satisfactory number of varieties, along with the profound knowledge of its pioneers about everything related to the vineyard and its cultivation. With a commitment to sustainable practices, Estate Papaioannou has been farming organically since 2004. Papaioannou Winery is certified by the state-controlled DIO, and more recently achieved USDA NOP organic certification.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Agiorgitiko, a native Greek grape varietal which also often goes by the name St. George. The grapes for this wine were grown in their 60 hectare estate vineyard in Nemea, at 350 metres above sea level. The vines are 35-years-old and planted on clay soil with gravels, and trained using the Royat double cordon system. It was vinified by undergoing a cool temperature fermentation using indigenous yeasts, with 2 weeks of maceration time. The wine was matured for 12 months in 300 L American and French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% 1-year-old, followed by 6 months of bottle ageing.

The 2019 vintage in Greece is considered to be one of the best in the last 20+ years with consistent, evenly distributed rainfall, and without extreme periods of heat, which resulted in a high-acid vintage. In Nemea, low temperatures during winter and spring, combined with continuous rainfall, resulted in late maturation during all stages of ripening. The summer months and September experienced heat and drought conditions, which ensured good hygiene for most grape varieties. With normal yields and excellent grape health, the resulting wines are characterized by high acidity, which gives aromatic wines good varietal expression. From a very good vintage with high expectations, let's see how this 2019 Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTATE PAPAIOANNOU SAINT GEORGE AGIORGITIKO 2019 - Vegan, PDO Nemea, Greece (#27217) (XD) - $29.95
This organic Agiorgitiko is fragrant and open, with a medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely, complex mix of dark fruited spices revealing layers of black cherry, blackberry, sandalwood, and savoury earth aromas nuanced with touches of rose floral, dried cherry, and barnyard. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has oak spice, dark berry, black cherry, black plum, peppery spice, and smoky mineral flavours. It is well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, as well as refined, gritty tannins. Touches of intriguing menthol notes on the back palate, while waves of black cherry, pepper, and oak spice notes lead to smoky minerals with excellent length on the crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Papaioannou is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2024 and Hedgehog Single Vineyard Xinomavro 2022 (Greece) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, vegan-friendly wines from Greece that arrived at the LCBO last month. The Xinomavro arrived in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Malagouzia arrived in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both wines are readily available across Ontario.

Both of these wines are produced by Alpha Estate, a highly-regarded winery situated in the Amyndeon region of Florina, in Northwestern Macedonia of Greece. It was established in 1997 by experienced viticulturist Makis Mavridis, and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis. They gained many years of experience and had passion in their respective fields before becoming business partners and creating their own wines from vineyards planted in Amyndeon.

The modern winery of Alpha Estate is now run by the next generation of the families, Angeliki Iatridou and Emorfili Mavridou, daughters of Angelos and Makis. Together, they carry on the knowledge and passion for winemaking, while respecting tradition and evolving to participate in Alpha Estate's common vision. With a 220-hectare privately-owned vineyard with a unique ecosystem situated in Amyndeon, they respect nature and use the most recent international standards in eco-friendly and sustainable farming practices and winemaking. The soul of their work is the team of people that contribute every day to the dream, to craft wines with professional know-how and experience throughout each stage, from vineyard to production to promotion.

Alpha Estate's winemaking facility is located at the heart of the vineyard, thereby allowing the grapes to arrive at the winery upon harvesting in the shortest amount of time. Furthermore, the grapes are harvested during the coolest hours of the day and transported to the winery in special refrigerators, which allows the grapes' organoleptic characteristics to be protected and shows the great respect that Alpha Estate has for grapes. The modern winemaking facility was designed to allow the grapes to move throughout the winery by using gravity, which allows for minimum possible stress on the raw material. The winery was constructed in the mid-2000s using highly inactive and neutral materials in order to create a completely neutral atmospheric condition inside the winery, which helps protect the quality of the grape, must, and wine.

This Malagouzia was grown in their Turtles vineyard, on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia, and named "Turtles" because freshwater turtles are commonly found in the nearby lakes and wetlands. The privately-owned 220-hectare vineyard is situated at 620–710 metres above sea level, which is among the highest vineyards in Greece, and planted on sandy – sandy clay soil over limestone, with excellent drainage. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested on September 14th, destemmed, and optically sorted. After undergoing light crushing, the grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, with skin contact. The wine remained in contact with its fine lees for 2 months, with regular stirring.

The Xinomavro was grown by Alpha Estate's founder, Makis Mavridis, and crafted by winemaker Angelos Iatridis. The grapes were grown at Mavridis' privately-owned Hedgehog vineyard on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia. The vineyard is named "Hedgehog" because of the hedgehogs that are commonly found in the area, and is planted between 620–710 metres above sea level, with northern exposure to the sun and facing Lake Petron and Mount Voras. The grapes were brought to the winery and destemmed. Without crushing, the grapes were cold-soaked with skin contact, and underwent alcoholic fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures while maintaining contact sue lie for 8 months, with regular stirring. It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by maturation in bottle for 12 months.

Let's see how these two fantastic wines from Northwestern Macedonia in Greece are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ALPHA ESTATE TURTLES SINGLE VINEYARD MALAGOUZIA 2024 - Vegan, PGI Florina, Greece (#32161) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Malagouzia has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers an elegant mix of leesy, limestone mineral, lemon citrus, and grapefruit aromas flecked with spring flowers, herbs, peach, and tropical fruit. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is dense and impressively structured with crunchy lemon citrus, stony mineral, spice, grapefruit, and herbal flavours nuanced with peach and floral notes. It has crisp, lively, and well-structured acidity, along with a fine, gently chalky textured mouthfeel. Juicy with lemon citrus notes tapering to stony and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG SINGLE VINEYARD XINOMAVRO 2022 - Vegan, PDO Amyndeon, Greece (#259762) (XD) - $29.95
Clean and open, this has a medium-high intensity nose of tomato leaf mingling red cherry, dried rose floral, savoury earth, mineral, licorice, and sandalwood aromas that pleasantly evolve in the glass. The mid-weighted palate is dry and gently spicy with ripe red fruited notes of plum, cherry, tomato leaf, licorice, dried rose floral layered over savoury earth and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, juicy, and lemony acidity, while the supple, textured tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. The tomato and red fruit notes give way to savoury and earthy minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alpha Estate are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Tiraki Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It is brand-new to the LCBO and landed on shelves (and online) in last month's November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tiraki Wines, a family-owned winery situated at Longfield Farm in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. The farm was established in 1870 and has been family-owned and farmed for 5 generations. However, their journey into winegrowing only began after they planted their first grapes on the site in 1999.

The Hammond family didn't plan to start a wine company, but perhaps it was inevitable. Tiraki is run by three siblings - Josh, Tyler, and Ellarose Hammond - who grew up on the Marlborough farm, and a long-time friend - Chris. Together, they built forts out of bay hales, worked the vineyard by day, and by night they skied down the Wairau River - the same river that is depicted on the labels of Tiraki wines. Each sibling followed their own career path, which turned out to be complementary to each other as Josh became a winemaker, Tyler an MBA grad, and Ellarose a marketing grad, while Chris was a brilliant salesperson. The company was quietly growing before it even had a name.

As each child was growing up, one by one, they left Marlborough to pursue their own dreams in new cities and countries. However, in 2020, they all came home as Covid hit - much to the delight of their parents, and it was in 2020 that Tiraki was born, around the kitchen table, during vineyard walks, and over a few family dinners with Chris at the table.

Tiraki means 'the clearing of the sky' and is exactly what the brand has been for the family - a return to what matters the most - the land, their roots, and each other. Tiraki was created to reflect the life they've lived and the values they were raised with: to care for the land, support your community, and stay connected to what's real. Their values are rooted in Tikanga Māori and shape everything they do: Kaitiakitanga (Guardianship of the Land), Whanaungatanga (The Value of Connection and Kinship), Kotahitanga (Unity and Collective Action), and Manaakitanga (The Spirit of Hospitality, Kindness, and Generosity). Tiraki is proud to be New Zealand's first B Corp Certified wine company. Today, the Longfield farm spans 650 acres, with the majority planted to Sauvignon Blanc that is farmed with care and a commitment to best practices.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in their Oddstone Vineyard nestled in the Southern Valleys. The vines are 12 to 30 years old and planted on free-draining alluvial soils, and delivers concentrated fruit and lively acidity. The grapes to craft this wine were harvested in the cool, early morning, which allows for retaining aromatic flavour precursors, then gently pressed into tank to cold settle. The clear juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures with selected yeast strains designed to enhance aromatic intensity. Additionally, 18% of the wine was wild fermented in a mix of oak puncheons and stainless steel tanks. The two portions were then blended and aged on light lees for 5 months in tank.

During the 2023 growing season on the South Island of New Zealand, the vintage felt wet because it rained quite evenly from January to April, although total rainfall was slightly lower than average. Furthermore, variable and protracted flowering of early ripening varieties resulted in average yields for Sauvignon Blanc due to poor fruit set. Critical to the success of the vintage were the resulting loose bunches, which meant less disease vulnerability, particularly in Sauvignon Blanc, which is one of the most disease-prone varieties due to its naturally tight bunches. Cold nights held botrytis at bay and maintained acidity. From a La Niña year with disease pressure, the 2023 vintage is considered to be a resounding success, ranking among the top five vintages of all time. Moreover, it is possible to hypothesize that Sauvignon Blanc's optimal potential is realized in these benign La Niña conditions. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TIRAKI SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41802) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, the restrained, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers a lovely mix of ripe tropical fruits, guava, kiwi, passion fruit, lime citrus, leesy mineral, and grapefruit aromas, plus whiffs of white floral. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is impressively concentrated with lovely lime citrus, passion fruit, guava, and grapefruit flavours. It seems a bit tightly wound with its crisp and juicy acidity, and slightly grippy textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced flavours throughout with lime and passion fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Tiraki Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-friendly Syrah from one of Niagara's premier Syrah wine producers. It marks the first time that the LCBO has featured a Kacaba single-vineyard Syrah in a VINTAGES Release feature story as it was categorized as perfect for festive cocktail parties (and is also suitable for the table) in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kacaba Vineyards & Winery, a premium, small-batch wine producer situated on prime, winegrowing land on the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland, Ontario. It was established in 1997 by Michael Kacaba, a Bay St. lawyer in Toronto of Ukrainian descent and a Saskatchewan background. The land where the Kacaba winery resides was slated to be a subdivision, but Mr. Kacaba had other visions and began the work to establish a vineyard and winery, and only two years later, Kacaba had their first vintage in 1999 and consistent success followed soon thereafter.

While Mr. Kacaba is no longer the owner of the winery, his vision remains - to produce wines using only the finest grapes grown on the estate or from partner growers in surrounding vineyards. The philosophy at Kacaba is dependent upon on producing small quantities of wines by limiting the quantities they can handle such that they are able to manage by hand all aspects of the winemaking process. With a focus on small-batch winemaking, Kacaba is able to produce wines of merit, while also encouraging sustainable agriculture on their land and from partner growers. Kacaba has also greatly benefited from its location on the Niagara Escarpment - a slope leading to the lake bed of the prehistoric lake that covered southern Ontario - a unique geographical microclimate whereby cold air naturally flows down the Escarpment and over Lake Ontario, where it warms, rises, and returns to heat the Escarpment. This process provides for a frost-free and extended growing season, which results in longer maturing varieties such as Syrah to naturally reach phenolic maturity and thrive in this area.

This Terraced Vineyard Syrah is one of several single-vineyard Syrahs in the Kacaba lineup. The Terraced Vineyard is one of the two original blocks of Syrah that were planted in the Kacaba Vineyard in 1997. Today, this vineyard includes some younger vines that were planted in 2007, when the neighbouring property was acquired and planted along with the Proprietor's Block. The vineyard was planted in the ravine on the property, and had to be terraced in order to plant the rows and accommodate the vineyard equipment that would help maintain the property. The ravine (and the rows of vines) run almost directly north-to-south, allowing the vines to have optimum sun exposure. With its unique microclimate, this block of vines in the terraced slope vineyard has shown much promise over the years, while producing exceptional wines. The vineyard is the most prominent part of the property as it can be seen in its entirety from the Bailey Bridge.

This red wine is actually a co-fermented blend of 90.7% Syrah and 9.3% Viognier. After careful hand-harvesting of the grapes, they were gently destemmed and left as whole berries for open-top fermentation. Both the Syrah and Viognier were cold-soaked and fermented together to extract colour, flavours, and aromatics from the skins prior to introducing yeast to initiate fermentation. During fermentation, the tanks were hand-plunged twice a day to further extract colour and flavour, while post-fermentation the wine was pressed from the skins and moved to a mixture of both French and American oak barrels to complete malolactic fermentation. The wine remained in barrels for 14 months for maturation, then combined in tank, filtered, and then bottled in August 2023.

In 2021, the growing season in Niagara was a challenging vintage. Spring and summer were mostly hot and dry, while autumn saw a shift to cool and mild temperatures, which is generally favourable for grape maturation. However, autumn also brought more rainfall, cloud cover, and fog than desired, conditions which pose a risk for fungal diseases. However, because the team at Kacaba was proactive with disease management, the timing of harvest was adjusted in order to ensure optimal grape ripeness. From a vintage that tested the skill of winemakers, as well as picking decisions, let's see how this 2021 Syrah from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KACABA TERRACED VINEYARD SYRAH 2021 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#394171) (XD) - $35.15
This co-fermented blend of 90.7% Syrah and 9.3% Viognier has a deep, medium-high intensity that seems a bit shy, offering lovely savoury meaty, dark berry, black cherry, black peppercorn spice, and floral aromas. The dry, medium+ weighted palate is ripe with tangy dark berry and sour cherry flavours joining the black peppercorn, meaty, floral, and savoury earth replays. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the ripe, fine-grained tannins are supple and textured, with good structure. Black peppercorn and meaty notes linger on the long, slightly tangy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

A couple of other wines by Kacaba are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, sustainable, and vegan-friendly Chardonnay that screams local as it was barrel-fermented and aged in Canadian oak barrels. This white wine returned to the LCBO as part of last month's October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario, including at the winery in Niagara.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery situated on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The winery was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson, and prides itself on their use of eco-friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar since the beginning. In 2024, after 25 successful years, Featherstone changed hands and began a new chapter under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

The vision at Featherstone is to build on the successes of the past and continue to produce distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. The philosophy at Featherstone has always been based on respect for the land which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and reduced chemical intervention, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. As nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in a give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, there is a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. Since its founding, Featherstone has always prided itself on farming without the use of insecticides, and in 2023 they achieved their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was harvested on October 26, 2023. The grapes were machine harvested, crushed, de-stemmed, and then pressed into barrels made from Canadian oak that was grown nearby. It underwent alcoholic fermentation in barrels using wild, indigenous yeast, followed by 100% complete malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months in 100% Canadian oak barrels, with lees stirring taking place on a monthly basis.

In 2023, rhe growing season was wet, dreary, and featured a smoke-filled summer, but was remarkably saved by a dry and warm fall. While the harvest was pushed back by as much as three weeks, most varieties that were harvested were in good shape, with a bountiful crop. Chardonnay was one of the star varieties of the vintage as it benefited from warm days and cool nights prior to harvest and developed vibrant fruit and juicy acidity. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#149302) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers caramel, banana, and vanilla aromas surrounding a core of ripe tropical fruits, yellow apples, and creamed peaches. On the dry, full-ish bodied palate it has caramel, vanilla, buttery, yellow apple, and peach flavours joined by some toasty oak spice notes. It's well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, while the spice notes give way to leesy minerals on the long, juicy finish. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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