Domäne Wachau Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner 2023 (Austria) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a perennial personal favourite - a certified sustainable and vegan Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau Valley in Austria that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the June 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domäne Wachau, one of Austria's most prestigious and renowned wine producers. Situated in the heart of the Wachau Valley of Austria, the estate has a long history, with the earliest documentation of the estate's name going back to the year 1137. The Wachau is a gorge of only 33 km in length and features steep slopes terraced with dry stone walls, fortressed mountains, vineyards, orchards, rare flora and fauna. The estate has changed hands several times over the years, and by 1930 it had become Freie Weingärtner Wachau, the regional wine cooperative of Wachau.

Based in the small town of Dürnstein, near the Danube river in the Krems-Land district, this co-operative is no ordinary cooperative as they are quality-oriented and considered experts among Austria's leading winegrowing businesses. In 2008, the independent wine company was renamed to Domäne Wachau.

Today, under the leadership of Roman Horvath, MW, and Heinz Frischengruber, the wine company's key values are craftsmanship, terroir, and precision. They work in close partnership with their vignerons, while respecting nature and the soil which dominate the hard work on the steeply-sloped vineyards. Domäne Wachau is Austria’s leading organic wine estate with over 160 hectares of organically cultivated vines. The vineyards are organized into small parcels and worked mainly by hand, with each vigneron cultivating less than two hectares on average, and thus allowing the vignernon to focus on the needs of the individual plot. Furthermore, Domäne Wachau produces grand single vineyard (ried) wines that reflect their unique origins and deliver a distinctive and puristic style, with both depth and freshness. Domäne Wachau is a next generation Wine Cooperative like no other on Earth.

The winemaking philosophy at Domäne Wachau is based on working closely with nature, barely intervening during vinification, and accompanying the wines through absolutely minimal activity. Their goal is to nurture and bring out the origin, vintage, and varietal characteristics of every single wine as precisely as possible. With no vintage being the same, time helps shape the wine and gives it balance to produce a natural equilibrium that allows for the aromas to develop slowly and calmly. Domäne Wachau is continuously learning and developing, while the interplay between tradition and innovation comes together in their work in the cellar.

Domäne Wachau has several ranges of wines within their portfolio, and this white wine is from their Terrassen, or Terraces, range. Because grapes from primary rock sites are too tiny for a single vineyard wines, Wachau blends the grapes from these sites to create a series of wines that represent the classic expression of the Wachau and the vintage.

Crafted with 100% Grüner Veltliner, the grapes were grown on steeply terraced vineyards throughout the Wachau Valley. The vineyards are worked on in a sustainable manner, and increasingly, using organic principles, without the use of insecticides or herbicides. After carefully hand-picking the grapes, they are brought to the winery and carefully selected and then processed in a pneumatic tank press. The must is then fermented under a controlled temperature and aged on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks. Grüner Veltliner from these terraced vineyards typically exhibit fresh fruit characters and pronounced minerality.

The 2023 growing season in Austria was a challenging one. It began with an exceptionally mild and dry winter followed by a cool spring, which provided the soil with plenty of moisture. The moisture build-up in the soil was often beneficial to the vines during the hot summer days. It was turning out to be a very good year until several hailstorms came through the region in Autumn. High September temperatures and the resulting ripeness were compensated for by cool October nights, and in the end the grapes were ripe and healthy during harvest. The resulting wines were balanced and harmonious, with complex and juicy aromas, along with a rounder texture and acidity. Let's see how this 2023 Grüner Veltliner from Wachau in Austria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMÄNE WACHAU TERRASSEN FEDERSPIEL GRÜNER VELTLINER 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, DAC Wachau, Qualitätswein, Austria (#31534) (XD) - $19.95
Screw cap. Lovely, clean, and fresh medium-high to highly aromatic nose of ripe and zesty lemon citrus, yellow apple, hay, and pear aromas flecked with stony minerals and touches of peppery spice. The light to mid-weighted palate is dry, zesty, and fresh, with crunchy yellow apple, lemon citrus, and pear flavours nuanced with peppery spice and stony minerality. Clean and well-balanced throughout with fresh and vibrant acidity. Delicious yellow apple and lemon citrus notes taper to leesy-stony minerals on the long, crisp, and juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Domäne Wachau can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.