Casale del Giglio Bellone 2023 (Lazio) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white crafted with the indigenous and quite rare Bellone (bel-LOH-neh) varietal. It made its debut at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the March 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Casale del Giglio, a winery with roots as a wine merchant that was founded in 1914 by the Santarelli brothers - Emidio, Isidoro, and Antonio. In 1955, Dino Santarelli, son of Emidio, founded a company to bottle Lazio's classic wines, which were largely sold in Rome, but also exported abroad, including Canada.

In 1967, Dr. Berardino Santarelli, son of Antonio, established the family estate of Casale del Giglio on the unconventional land in the Agro Pontino valley, between the towns of Aprilla and Latina, about 50 km south of Rome. Since vine growing was not a tradition in this area, Dr. Santarelli and his son, Antanio, had free rein to introduce pioneering ideas, and in 1985 they planted nearly 60 different experimental varietals in the soils at Casale del Giglio. This bold and daring scheme had never been approached in such a scientific way, and their young winemaker, Paolo Tiefenthaler, was to become its leading light. Ampelographers and university researchers of the day joined them in this research project, and continue to support this effort, which is also endorsed by the Agricultural Department of Latium's Regional Government. The project aimed at identifying and maximizing the territory's potential for quality viticulture has yielded positive results, with these processes influencing other regions across the globe.

The philosophy at Casale del Giglio is based on the future of Italian viticulture relying not only on consolidating the image of its traditional wine producing zones, but on its ability to produce top-quality wines at favourable prices in areas whose potential is still relatively unexplored. As a result of Casale del Giglio's research, there are new recommended varieties that can be cultivated in the province of Latina. Casale del Giglio has 180 hectares of vines planted to the cordon trained system, while electing to plant grape varieties which have adapted well to the territory and produce quality wines.

Bellone is an Italian white wine grape variety first cited by Pliny the Elder and has been present in the Latium region of central-western Italy, near the city of Rome, and cultivated since the times of the Romans. Today, Bellone is cultivated from the Roman to the Lepini hills and in the hinterland of the coastal town of Anzio in Lazio, where the warm sandy soils tempered by a relentless sea breeze provide the ideal microclimate. Casale del Giglio's Bellone Project was launched in 2012 around the coastal town of Anzio, a choice location keeping in line with the claim of past farmers that Bellone thrives on sea air. The Bellone grape is vigorous and resistant to drought, which ensures wine quality and balance, while its plump, golden yellow, and thick-skinned grapes hang in elongated, cone-shaped bunches. Meanwhile, the persistent Tyrrhenian Sea breeze prevents over-ripening, while maintaining high concentrations of both sugar and acidity, which ultimately lead to early maturation and highlighting the wine's pronounced mineral notes.

I've had the pleasure of tasting Casale del Giglio's flagship white wine "Anthium", which is crafted with Bellone from 60-year-old vines, many times over the years and am excited to see how this entry-level Bellone compares. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested at the end of September and then macerated on the skins to encourage extraction of the aromas bestowed by the territory. It was then softly pressed and then underwent spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts for about 10–12 days at 18–20°C, and matured in bottle without the use of any oak. Let's see how this 2023 Bellone from Lazio is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASALE DEL GIGLIO BELLONE 2023 - IGT Lazio Bianco, Italy (#45845) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Bellone has a lovely, medium-high intensity nose that is open with earthy minerality and sea spray aromas layered over lemon citrus, apple, and yellow floral. It's medium-full bodied on the dry, fairly concentrated, and well-structured palate with lovely, ripe lemon citrus, apple, earthy mineral, saline, floral, and warm spice flavours in a gently honeyed profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while also having a slight mineral texture on the mid-palate. Lemon citrus and apple transition to spices, and then to saline minerals on the long, balanced, and savoury finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Casale del Giglio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Bell'Aja Bolgheri 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful red from Bolgheri that is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon. It arrived at the LCBO just over two weeks ago in the February 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the renowned San Felice, a winery with roots dating back to the times of the Etruscan civilization more than 2,200 years ago. Findings unearthed on the estate show that the Etruscans shaped the Chianti territorial landscape, which also included the introduction of vine cultivation. The Borgo of San Felice, as it's known today, was established in the Middle Ages, with its first mention dating back to the year 714 when it was originally known as San Felice in Avana.

The latest chapter in San Felice's winemaking history begins in the 1960s when the winery changed hands for the first time in generations. After its acquisition, San Felice was developed and modernized, and ushered in a new era focused on quality wine production and research. Today, San Felice is an emblem of authentic Tuscany, with vineyards in the region's three-most prestigious winemaking territories - 150 hectares in Chianti Classico, 23 hectares in Montalcino, and 15 hectares in Bolgheri. In addition to producing wine from only estate-owned grapes, they also have Borgo San Felice Resort - a place where tourists can enjoy a fine Tuscan meal at a Michelin-starred restaurant, or spend some time at the Botanic Spa.

San Felice owns three estates in Tuscany and the Bell'Aja Estate is their newest venture. The six-hectare estate was established in 2016 in Bolgheri, a region famed for the breathtaking five-kilometre Cypress Avenue that is lined with 2,540 trees. Situated near the Tuscan coastline in the commune of Castagneto Carducci, within the province of Livorno, the estate is noted for its world-class vineyard which occupies a natural amphitheatre overlooking the sea, with a breeze that is ideal for winegrowing. The vines at Bell’Aja are planted on silt-sand soils, which are typical of the area, with four hectares dedicated to Merlot, and two hectares dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon. At this special location, the delicious sea breeze blows over the vineyards, while the forests behind them cool the terroir at night, conditions which create the ideal conditions for elegant fruit ripening. Today, San Felice's Bell'Aja estate is known for its highly prestigious Bolgheri and Bolgheri Superiore wines.

This particular red wine is from San Felice's Bell'Aja Estate, a Bolgheri Rosso DOC that is composed of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown on the estate on silt-sandy soil, which is typical of the area. The vines were trained using the spur-pruned cordon system. After harvesting the grapes from the last week of August to the second week of September, it underwent fermentation and maceration for 18 days, followed by 12 months of ageing in French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season was marked by drought that began at the end of winter and persisted for much of spring and summer. The saving grace for this vintage were the series of thunderstorms in mid-August, which was crucial during the grape ripening period. The grapes in Bolgheri responded very positively throughout as they were resilient to the initial lack of water, followed by efficiently metabolizing the rains, which ultimately allowed for optimal ripening, especially for later-ripening varieties. It was an early harvest that began around the third week of August and concluded at the end of September. The end result was low yields with small, concentrated berries that produced red wines with sturdy frames of ripe and grippy tannins. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Bolgheri is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BELL'AJA BOLGHERI 2022 - DOC, Tuscany, Italy (#16890) (XD) - $39.95
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, this is beautifully fresh and elegant with a medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe aromas of red & black wild forest berries, currant, cassis, black cherry, plus rose florals over a layer of savoury wet earth and accents of sweet oak spice. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it has lovely wild forest berries flavours alongside oak spice, wet earth, and touches of dried herbs and graphite. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the refined and textured tannins develop some youthful grip on the back palate. Savoury with graphite mineral notes linger on the long, balanced finish. Enjoy this recommended buy over the coming 6-8 years. Score: 91+ pts

Quite a few wines by San Felice are listed on the LCBO website, with most available in only limited quantities, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2022 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a beautiful, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Langhe DOC in Piedmont that arrived at LCBO outlets across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 6th - with bottles still available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Vietti, a prestigious and historic estate winery situated in the village of Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo wine region of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It was established in the 1800s by Carlo Vietti, then taken over in 1917 by his son, Mario, who transformed the family farm into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high-quality wines.

In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, took Vietti to new heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture. The ambition, foresight, and pioneering spirit of Alfredo helped create in 1961 one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione, followed a few years later by their first Roero Arneis. Matched with artist labels in 1974, the Vietti brand became an icon and standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of the time.

In the 1980s, the winery was taken over by Mario Cordero, the son-in-law of Luciana and Alfredo. And in the 1990s, Mario was joined by the son of Luciana and Alfredo, Luca Currado Vietti, and Luca's wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

Today, Vietti is owned by the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2016 and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Vietti family is no longer involved in this project as both Luca and Elena left in 2023, the Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins. Their values are based on, among other things, territory, craftsmanship, quality research, human capital, and sustainability. The place where the vision of wine and the vineyard is an expression of the intelligence of the hands, and that preserving the craftsmanship is essential to wine and its production. The Vietti manifesto is to always improve, respect nature's own pace, take care of tradition and of those that help safeguard it, and cultivate sustainability. The aim is to obtain identity-based wines capable of withstanding the test of time.

Like the 2020 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo I enjoyed in 2024, this red wine is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites, mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. After harvesting, the grapes were brought to the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation for about 3–4 weeks at a controlled temperature between 28°C–32°C, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel was vinified and aged separately until the lots that will be used for Langhe Nebbiolo and those that will continue to age for Barolo, are selected. The parcels for Langhe Nebbiolo were aged for about 18–20 months in barriques and large barrels, then blended in steel prior to bottling. This wine is considered to be a "second Barolo", and the name "Perbacco" comes from the Italian exclamation "Per Bacco!", which translates roughly to "By Bacchus", the Roman god of wine. Perbacco symbolizes wine, pleasure, and celebration.

The 2022 growing season is noted for being the driest and among the hottest in Piedmont's history. The region was already lacking water and barely received any precipitation between December 2021 and the beginning of May 2022. The arid conditions persisted through summer, which resulted in small vines producing small clusters. Vital in this vintage were soil and canopy management in order to preserve any moisture and protect the grapes from sunburn. From a vintage with slightly reduced yields and, given the climatic conditions, surprising balance and acidity, let's see how this 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $42.95
100% Nebbiolo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal pretty and gently perfumed aromas of rose floral, red cherry, and sweet spices with hints of orange peel and leafy herb. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite firmly structured with lovely red cherry, rose floral, sweet spice, cinnamon, and savoury earth flavours with leafy herb accents. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the structured tannins have some youthful grip. Subtle spice notes on the mid-palate, while savoury earth notes take over on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now with protein, but I would tuck this away for 3-4 years and enjoy to the early-mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Bottega Il Vino dei Poeti Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2024 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious, premium Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG that made its debut at the LCBO last month. It was included as part of the feature on Finest Festive Wines in the December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bottega SpA, a family-owned winery and distillery with deep roots in the Veneto wine region of northeastern Italy. Their story begins in 1635 when their forefather, Andrea, cultivated vines in the hills near Molinetto della Croda in Refrontolo, a comune in the Province of Treviso. The family were tenant farmers for the Counts of Collalto until they gained their freedom, after which they started to farm their own lands.

The more recent history of the family begins in the 1920s with Domingo Bottega, a wine trader and passionate oenologist who was able to easily identify the best grapes in the vineyard. In the 1950s and 1960s, Aldo Bottega, son of Domingo, expanded on his father's passion for the vine and established a distillery. In 1977, Bottega SpA was founded by Aldo and his wife, Rosina, in Pianzano di Godega, within the Province of Treviso, the heartland and historical home of Prosecco.

Today, Bottega is run by the children of Aldo and Rosina - siblings Sandro, Barbara, and Stefano. Sandro became the company director in 1983. In 1992, they added a winery to the distillery and began producing Prosecco Spumante. In 2007, the company moved its premises to a big 18th century farmhouse situated in Bibano di Godega di Sant'Urbano, 50 km from Venice, near Conegliano Veneto, among 10 hectares of vineyards. This farmhouse was renovated according to state-of-the-art environmental standards, while also keeping its original architectural features.

The mission and values at Bottega are based on quality and typicality, design and innovation, and sustainability. As a major international exporter, Bottega's products are available in over 150 countries worldwide. Bottega is particularly known for their portfolio of Prosecco sparkling wines, many of which come in distinctive packaging that are immediately recognizable as Bottega.

In the pyramid of Prosecco quality, this sparkling wine is part of the upper, higher-quality pyramid of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco. The story of this DOCG begins in the hilly area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, in northeast Italy, about 50 km from Venice and 100 km from the Dolomites. Locals have grown grapes to produce Prosecco Superiore in this area for over three centuries, with success arriving in 1876 after the founding of Italy's first School of Oenology. The production area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene covers 15 communes and represents the heart of the world of Prosecco. Italy first recognized this historic denomination in 1969, and in 2009 it was elevated it to a Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin (DOCG), the highest level of quality for Italian wines.

This vintage Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is crafted with 100% Glera that was grown in the hilly area close to the Venetian Prealps. This area has a temperate climate with mild winters and fresh summers, while also offering a wide diurnal temperature range which stimulates the aromatic compounds in the grapes, resulting in finer and more intense aromas. This area also has a diversity of soils, sun exposure, and slopes, which helps craft complex Prosecco wines.

To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested at various times according to their ripeness at the end of September. Only ripe, healthy, and suitable grapes were selected, and then softly pressed to protect grape integrity. The must was stored at low temperatures in steel tanks, followed by first fermentation using selected yeasts. In accordance with the Martinotti (aka Charmat) method, the second fermentation took place in cuve close (sealed tank) at a controlled temperature of
15°C in order to preserve the primary aromas of the grapes. The wine was left in contact with its lees to enhance the body, structure, and aroma of the wine, while also balancing sugar residues. It was then cold-stabilized, filtered, and finally bottled. The wine rests for a few days in bottle to restore its natural balance prior to release.

In 2024, the growing season in Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG was unstable with many challenges. Spring was unusually cold and rainy with near-record rainfall from April to mid-June. These weather conditions significantly delayed vegetative development until early July, which resulted in uneven fruit set, loose clusters, and irregular berries. However, improved conditions leading up to and during harvest allowed growers to bring in a generally healthy crop, albeit with slightly reduced yields. From a promising vintage, let's see how this 2024 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOTTEGA IL VINO DEI POETI BRUT VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE 2024 - Sustainable, DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#46058) (D) - $29.95
100% Glera. Clean, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of peach, nectarine, yellow citrus, white floral, and acacia aromas with hints of orange peel and leesy mineral. On the mid-weighted palate it has delicious peach, nectarine, white floral, acacia, and yellow citrus flavours with pleasing touches of savoury bitterness and leesy notes, plus a pinch of balancing sugar in a mostly dry flavour profile. It has clean and fresh acidity, along with refined bubbles. It's nicely balanced throughout with citrus and leesy notes on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next 1-2 years. Score: 89 pts

Many other lovely wines by Bottega SpA are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and organic Super Tuscan that is predominantly Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles surprisingly still available for purchase!

It is produced by Tenuta Sette Ponti, a highly-regarded, family-owned winery situated in Tuscany, between the cities of Florence and Arezzo, Italy. The history of the property begins in 1935, when Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta planted the first vineyards on the property to celebrate having taken over the Ethiopian Empire. It was called "Vigna dell'Impero", or Vineyard of the Empire, and is home to an ancient clone of Sangiovese that is the only one of its kind.

In the 1950s, architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri acquired the first 55 hectares of land directly from Princesses Margherita and Maria Cristina of Savoy-Aosta, daughters of Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta, and dedicated himself to the production of winegrowing and olive oil. The grapes were sold to producers until the 1990s, when Antonio Moretti Cuseri, son of Alberto, who had a passion for wine since he was a young boy, took over the family business in 1997.

Antonio worked alongside the best viticulturists and oenologists to evaluate the suitability of the land for the production of quality wines, although the area was already declared one of the most suitable areas for wine production in Tuscany in 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. By 1998, Antonio stopped selling his grapes to other producers and established Tenuta Sette Ponti, or Seven Bridges, in tribute to the seven bridges that extend over the Arno River on the road from Florence to Arezzo. That same year, he made his first wine - Crognolo.

In 2018, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family, Amedeo, son of Antonio, joined the family business to continue to represent the company's strong values and bring a fresh and new vision. The philosophy at Tenuta Sette Ponti is based on quality, research, long-lasting knowledge, age-old customs, respect for the land and its balance, while also keeping pace with modern agricultural and oenological practices. Tenuta Sette Ponti has an incredible love for vines and is known for making exceedingly high quality, organic wines in line with Tuscan traditions.

The Crognolo is named after a wild plant Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) that grows in abundance on the estate. This red wine was first made in 1998 and strongly represents the vision of its creator, with an eye to the valorization of the territory and to innovation achieved through traditions that evolve. The base of this wine is Sangiovese from clones from the oldest and historically significant Vigna dell'Impero vineyard. This historic varietal clone was grafted in vineyards with stony soils rich in marl. The majority of the Sangiovese used to craft Crognolo is made up of only the best Sangiovese grapes from these vines.

Similarly to the 2018 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is predominantly Sangiovese (95%) with a splash of Merlot completing the blend. The southern-facing vineyard is planted at 250 metres above sea level. The vines are 30+ years old and trained using the spurred cordon system. After undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12–14 months in French oak barriques. It was then matured for 6 months in bottle prior to release.

While the 2022 growing season in Tuscany began with a cool and unusually dry winter, which transitioned into a warm spring, the vintage was marked by the scorching hot summer and extreme drought. The conditions in summer were so dry that some producers chose to irrigate to help protect their younger vines. However, vineyards situated near forests or up hills were able to keep cool, with welcoming rain finally arriving at the end of July. Further rainfall at the end of August to the beginning of September proved to be the vintage's saving grace. Although the drought conditions unsurprisingly reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high quality. From a good vintage with slightly higher-than-usual alcohol levels, let's see how this 2022 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2022 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. A touch reductive off the top, followed by a medium-high intensity nose of ripe red cherry aromas mingling with clove, savoury oak, and earthy minerals, plus hints of sweet spices. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has lovely red & black cherry, clove, oak spice, sweet spice, and earthy mineral replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the medium-firm tannins are well-structured with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Touch spicy with the alcohol peeking through ever so slightly on the mid-palate, while the exceptionally long finish is dry, savoury, and minerally. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

Tenuta Sette Ponti's iconic Oreno is available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range of wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (Italy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic, and unoaked Montepulciano from Abruzzo that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a leading wine producer that was founded by Gino Umani Ronchi within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche. A few years later, he formed a partnership with the Bianchi family, with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, eventually taking over the company in 1968. In 1990, Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager.

In 2001, Umani Ronchi purchased 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo, which signalled the beginning of a new venture. Today, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo, all of which are organically farmed and nestled between the hills and the sea along the Adriatic coast from Serra de' Conti in Marche in the north to Roseto degli Abruzzi in the south. Their philosophy is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. Their guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values.

This particular wine is from Umani Ronchi's Abruzzo range of wines, which are grown in a unique, alluvial soil whose top layer features sandy-clay loam that allows the vines through the gravel below, giving rise to wines of superb minerality. Moreover, the presence of the nearby Gran Sasso mountain and the winds off the Adriatic Sea allow for notable diurnal temperatures, which helps the grapes develop their aromatic qualities.

Crafted with 100% Montepulciano grapes, this red wine is named "Podere", or Farm. The grapes were obtained from vineyard farms predominantly located in the provinces of Chieti and Teramo. The vines were trained using the tendone system, which is the most widespread vine training system in Abruzzo and known for being fairly productive. When the tendone system is used with the correct balance, it can yield grapes of excellent quality. The grapes for this wine were hand-harvested from the end of September through the first ten days of October. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are macerated for up to 10 days in steel fermenting vats, followed by alcoholic and then malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured in steel for about 4 months, then rested for a short period in bottle prior to release.

The 2023 vintage in Abruzzo was marked by two important events - one positive and one negative. The positive is that wines from the 2023 vintage onward allow for the mention of subzones, along with stricter production rules, in order to achieve recognition and form a stronger bond between grape variety and territory. On the downside, the crop from the 2023 growing season was devastated by downy mildew. Being an organic wine producer, Umani Ronchi was able to fend off some of the fungus, which resulted in a production loss of 25% less than the historical average. After a challenging first part of the vintage, climatic conditions were ideal from August to October, which allowed the Montepulciano grapes to achieve optimal phenolic ripeness. While quantities were low, quality was generally excellent.

Umani Ronchi's version of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are intended to be an interpretation of the vine which exalts the varietal characteristics and freshness, and combines these qualities with just the right amount of charm and softness to create a pleasant and drinkable wine that complements many different kinds of dishes. Let's see how this 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI PODERE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 - DOC, Italy (#46567) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic and unoaked Montepulciano has an open, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers perfumed aromas of rustic wild berries, black cherry, currant, and dried herbal spice characters nuanced with touches of bramble, licorice, and floral notes. The ripe, medium+ bodied palate is dry with delicious black cherry, wild berry, currant, dried herbal spice, and licorice flavours framed by crisp and juicy acidity. The medium-firm, fine-grained tannins are well-structured. The black cherry notes taper to savoury, earthy, and mineral notes on the juicy, very long, and slightly tannic finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years and is a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Umani Ronchi are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG that made its latest arrival at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 8th.

It is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned wine company with deep roots in Tuscany. The company was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence in 1959 and grew up in the fashion business. However, he found his true calling in wine and in 1984 he purchased Castello di Bossi: a project that turned from a passion into a home and destiny. Success followed, and this hobby became his life, which resulted in further acquisitions in Montalcino and beyond, within Italy. His wines garnered critical acclaim and rewarded his vision, which was based upon rigour, terroir, and style.

Today, Bacci Wines aims to be the most accomplished expression of Tuscan wine. They interpret the region's great appellations with a personal style, and offer wines for an audience that seeks quality, identity, and refinement. They have over 190 hectares of vineyards across their estates, each of which is cultivated organically and powered by sustainable energy. One of their more innovative ventures is Talamo a Mare - an underwater cellar located at a depth of 35 metres that is dedicated to the maturation of red wine.

Marco continues to lead Bacci Wines, but he is also assisted by his children in the pursuit of a clear goal: to produce organic wines of the highest quality, in the name of sustainability and oenological excellence. As a lover of nature, Marco also supports environmental protection projects and contributes to the preservation of the black rhino in Africa. In 2019, entrepreneur and innovator Serg Bell joined the company as a minority partner and shares Marco's vision for wines that combine excellence, sustainability, and international openness. The philosophy at Bacci Wines is simple and rigourous - to craft organic wines of the highest quality, while fully respecting the environment and tradition.

Tenuta di Renieri is one of several holdings of Bacci Wines. The estate is located in the heart of the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southern part of Chianti Classico, and within an area renowned for its Sangiovese and Chianti Classico wines. Tenuta di Renieri borders the prestigious lands of Castello di Bossi, and covers an area of approximately 60 hectares, 22 hectares of which are cultivated with vines. The estate specializes in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva wines, while delivering an authentic expression of the territory and standing out for crafting superior quality wines.

The south-facing vineyards at Tenuta di Renieri enjoy a privileged position, which ensures that the grapes receive perfect sun exposure and optimal ripening conditions, resulting in wines that are ideally balanced between freshness and structure. The soils at the estate are extremely varied and range from yellow clay to tuff (weathered volcanic rock), which is an ideal combination for viticulture. Furthermore, the subsoil on the estate is rich in rounded stones, which act as natural drainage and ensures optimal water management, while also contributing to the health of the vines and the superior quality of the bunches. This particular subsoil also forces the vines to go deep into soil in the search for nutrients, picking up minerality along the way. It is this harmonious fusion between terroir and viticultural practices that makes the wines of Tenuta di Renieri an authentic celebration of the tradition and excellence of Chianti Classico.

Like the 2020 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted with 100% Sangiovese that was organically grown around the estate in Chianti Classico subzone of Castelnuovo Berardenga. The vines are situated at 300 metres above sea level and planted on tuff, yellow clay soil. The wine was traditionally vinified and matured in barriques for 12 months.

In 2022, the growing season in Tuscany was the warmest ever recorded, with average temperatures 1.3°C higher than the mean period from 1991 to 2020. Furthermore, the Castelnuovo Berardenga subzone is warmer than other UGAs. Weather anomalies were more significant during winter, spring, and late fall, instead of the crucial summer months of the growing cycle. While maximum temperatures stayed relatively high throughout the summer, heat spikes were few and short. Pre-harvest conditions in September were favourable in Chianti Classico as temperatures dropped considerably in most townships. Prolonged drought characterized much of the season, until significant rainfall between late August and the beginning of September rehydrated the berries. From a surprisingly positive vintage, let's see how this 2022 Chianti Classico Annata is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2022 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $24.95
This organic Sangiovese has a clean, medium-high intensity nose with an attractive mix of dark red fruited and spicy aromas with notes of black cherry, cinnamon, clove, and sweet spices accented with savoury dark earth and bramble, plus whiffs of dark minerals. The medium+ bodied palate is ripe with black and sour cherry mingling with savoury dark earth, mineral, spice, cinnamon, and clove flavours. It is well-structured with crisp, food-friendly acidity and somewhat youthfully grippy, and chalky textured tannins. Very tasty with cherry, clove, savoury dark minerals, and earth on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci estates can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Solicchiata Secondo di Castello 2012 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Franc-based blend from the volcanic soils of Sicily. It is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving in last month's October 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive, with some quantities still available, mostly in the Ottawa area (with store transfers likely possible).

It is produced by Feudi Barone Spitaleri, an historic château and winery that was established in 1852 by Felice Spitaleri, Marquis of Sant'Elia and Baron of Solicchiata, after he returned to Sicily from his own "grand tour" in France. However, the history of the Spitaleri family goes back much further, as they were named in 1102 after the Order of the Hospitallers Knights. Moreover, the Spitaleri family have been making wine on the volcanic island of Sicily since the 14th century and were creators of the oldest branded wine in the world.

Baron Felice was a pioneer in the art of oenology and used the knowledge he acquired in France to create the first ever Bordeaux varietal blend in Italy. In 1890, he was the first to be recognized with the Royal Warrant of Appointment by HM the King of Italy. In 1907, Antonino, a descendant of Felice, stopped the commercial production of wine, but saved a few vines for family use.

Today, Feudi Barone Spitaleri continues to be proudly owned by the Spitaleri family with brothers Baron Arnaldo and Felice the latest generation of the family to run the estate. Arnaldo revived the production of premium wines in 1997 and heads up the estate, while Felice is the master winemaker of the family wine company. Following the vision of its founder, only French vines are grown on the fertile, volcanic soils of Feudi Barone Spitaleri. The vines are grown on slopes which were formed during the lava flow in 1607 and on these slopes, Felice chose two plots close to each other and created terraces, roads, over 100 km of stone walls, and built an efficient Château solely dedicated to wine production. Feudi Barone Spitaleri grows only highly-selected and sophisticated varieties, instead of the indigenous, yet more productive, varieties. Along with a number of other properties across eastern Sicily, the Spitaleri family also grows some of the most celebrated oranges.

There are two lines of wines produced by Feudi Spitaleri, with this wine coming from their Castello di Solicchiata Vineyard range. As the name suggests, this is the "Second Wine" of the estate, and is inspired by the historic Bordeaux blends using varietals that have been present on their estate in Sicily for more than 150 years. It was Baron Felice Spitaleri who first experimented and planted these varieties by following his passion for Bordelaise vines, a passion which was developed during his prolonged stay in France.

This red wine is composed of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot that was grown on 80 hectares of terraced vineyards with alberello (bush) training. The vineyard is situated on the southwestern slopes of Mount Etna, on volcanic soils, at 800 metres above sea level. After hand-harvesting the grapes, they were macerated (and fermented) in conical oak tanks. The wine was matured for over two years in French Allier and Tronçais oak barriques, followed by further refinement in bottle for three years.

In 2012, the growing season in the Mount Etna area was hot and very dry, with no rain from May to October. As temperatures were well above average during summer, it was one of the warmest ever recorded in Etna, and irrigation was necessary for most growers because the vines were highly stressed. Many growers picked early, however, those who waited for the October rains were rewarded with grapes that offered a better balance between sugar and acidity. From a very good to outstanding vintage, let's see how this 2012 Etna red wine from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SOLICCHIATA SECONDO DI CASTELLO 2012 - IGP Sicily, Italy (#46776) (XD) - $34.95
This blend of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is immediately appealing, while revealing somewhat maturing aromas of dried cherry, rose floral, savoury earth, exotic spices, and cedar wood, plus volcanic ash minerals emerging with time in the glass. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite astringent with drying, mouth puckering tannins. Flavours are savoury with wet earth, cedar wood, cocoa, dark minerals, and oak spice nuanced with dried cherry and rose floral. Mouthwatering acids are juicy and succulent. The long finish is dry with savoury earth, and cedar notes, plus touches of exotic and sweet spices. This recommended buy is a wine for the table to pair with big red meats. Score: 91 pts

Other fine wines by Feudi Barone Spitaleri can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

October 11, 2025 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Italy

Here are my top wine picks from the October 11, 2025 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here), with "Inimitable Italy" the feature story of the release, while Chile gets the mini-spotlight. Also included in this release is a large selection of Online & Flagship Exclusive (OFE) wines. As we get closer to the holiday and gift-giving season, the releases tend to get larger and more expensive, and this release is no exception, with 137 products offered and the average price per bottle coming in at just under $33. Overall, this is a very good release with many fine wines at various price points, and all the wines should be readily available for purchase.

We'll begin with the feature story that focuses on wines from Italy, and of the twenty wines featured in the theme, five are included among my top wine recommendations. Starting in Tuscany and at the top of the list is the Cepparello Super Tuscan that is crafted with 100% Sangiovese, followed by the Chianti Classico that is also Sangiovese. The last wine from Tuscany is a Bolgheri crafted with 44% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petit Verdot. From Campania, there is a fine Falanghina, and the last wine is a Prosecco made with Glera.

Staying in Italy for red wine picks from the main release, there is the Brunello di Montalcino that is made with 100% Sangiovese, as well as the wine from Sicily that is a blend of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot. From Portugal, the Douro red is a blend of 55% Touriga Nacional, 40% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), and 5% Sezão, while the Alentejo red is composed of 42.5% Alicante Bouschet, 27.5% Alfrocheiro, 15% Syrah, and 15% Touriga Nacional. The only other blend is from Bordeaux, and it is composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. My remaining red wine picks are single varietal wines, including the Rioja that is Tempranillo, and the wine from Bulgaria that is crafted with Gamza (aka Kadarka).

Most of my top white wine recommendations in this release are mono-varietal wines, with the only blends being the McLaren Vale white that is composed of 55% Viognier and 45% Marsanne, and the Marsanne from Niagara that actually includes 2.4% Viognier and 2.4% Pinot Gris. Chardonnay wine lovers will find joy in this release with a quartet of wines — two from South Africa, and singletons from Margaret River (Australia) and Niagara. There's also a fine Melon de Bourgogne from the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation. And lastly, for Riesling fans, there is the dry Riesling by Cave Spring, and a medium-sweet Riesling by Tawse.

Among my rosé wine picks, the Tavel is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Clairette, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Bourboulenc, while the slightly off-dry rose from Niagara is a blend of 46.7% Gamay, 42.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11.1% Cabernet Franc.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cin cin!

Red Wine:

• LOVICO GAMZA 2021 - AOC Suhindol, Bulgaria (#10877) (XD) - $17.95
• JOURNEY'S END THE BLUEGUM MERLOT 2021 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#45381) (XD) - $18.95
• HUGH HAMILTON JIM JIM CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - Vegan, McLaren Vale, South Australia (#45334) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• FAMILLE LAFAGE CUVÉE NICOLAS VIEILLES VIGNES GRENACHE NOIR 2022 - IGP Côtes Catalanes, Roussillon, France (#354191) (XD) - $19.95
• BEST'S BIN NO. 1 GREAT WESTERN SHIRAZ 2022 - Victoria, Australia (#222323) (XD) - $19.95

• LORNANO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#211599) (XD) - $22.95  90+ pts  wine review
• VOLCANES DE CHILE TECTONIA SYRAH 2020 - DO Valle del Limarí, Chile (#41903) (XD) - $24.95  91 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU TOUR DU HAUT-MOULIN 2015 - AOC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#26295) (XD) - $27.95  90+ pts  wine review
• HIDDEN BENCH GAMAY 2023 - Sustainable, Unfiltered, VQA West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20422) (XD) - $29.95  90+ pts  wine review
• QUINTA DA FONTE SOUTO RED 2019 - DOC Alentejo - Portalegre, Portugal (#45163) (XD) - $29.95  OFE  91 pts  wine review
• OLABARRI GRAN RESERVA 2015 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#329102) (XD) - $29.95  91 pts  wine review

• SOLICCHIATA SECONDO DI CASTELLO 2012 - IGP Sicily, Italy (#46776) (XD) - $34.95  OFE  91 pts  wine review
• QUADRUS RESERVA 2017 - DOC Douro, Portugal (#534271) (XD) - $35.95
• LEEU PASSANT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#24601) (XD) - $49.95  OFE
• LE SERRE NUOVE DELL'ORNELLAIA 2023 - Second Wine of Ornellaia, DOC Bolgheri Rosso, Tuscany, Italy (#606194) (XD) - $84.95
• CASANOVA DI NERI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#85498) (XD) - $99.95  OFE
• ISOLE E OLENA CEPPARELLO 2021 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#28768) (XD) - $198.95  96 pts  wine review

White Wine:

• FLEURON DE LA REBOURGÈRE SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2023 - AOC, Loire, France (#557207) (XD) - $16.95  89 pts  wine review
• D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/ MARSANNE 2024 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#662775) (XD) - $17.95
• ZUCCARDI SERIE A TORRONTÉS 2024 - Sustainable, Salta, Argentina (#389262) (XD) - $17.95
• MILES FROM NOWHERE MARGARET RIVER SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Western Australia (#41794) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
• IL POGGIO FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO 2023 - DOP, Campania, Italy (#17695) (XD) - $18.95  90 pts  wine review
• BLAAUWKLIPPEN CHARDONNAY 2023 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#45188) (XD) - $19.95

 

• TAWSE LIMESTONE RIDGE-NORTH RIESLING 2021 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#431593) (M) - $21.95
• KEW MARSANNE 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#485334) (XD) - $21.95  91+ pts  wine review
• VASSE FELIX FILIUS CHARDONNAY 2023 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#416511) (XD) - $23.95  OFE
• FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#149302) (XD) - $24.95  89 pts  wine review
• CAVE SPRING CSV CAVE SPRING VINEYARD ESTATE GROWN RIESLING 2022 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#566026) (XD) - $34.95  91+ pts  wine review
• HAMILTON RUSSELL CHARDONNAY 2024 - Vegan, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa (#931006) (XD) - $65.95

Rosé Wine:

• FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ 2024 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#117861) (D) - $16.95  88+ pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA TAVEL ROSÉ 2024 - AOP, Cru des Côtes du Rhône, France (#319368) (XD) - $26.95  91+ pts  wine review

Sparkling Wine:

• CARPENÈ MALVOLTI 1868 BRUT CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE - DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#727438) (D) - $19.95  90 pts  wine review
• KEN FORRESTER SPARKLEHORSE CAP CLASSIQUE BRUT SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC 2022 - Traditional Method, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#32030) (D) - $29.95  91+ pts  wine review

Read More

Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2022 (Marche) - Wine Review

After taking some time away to deal with a personal family matter, tonight's white wine review is an exceptional Old Vines Verdicchio from the Castelli di Jesi DOC in Marche that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a family winery that was established by Gino Umani Ronchi in 1957 after he set up a small farm within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of Verdicchio Classico country in Le Marche. The history of Umani Ronchi is one of people, vineyards, terroirs, and values. In 1968, the property was acquired by Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law Massimo Bernetti, and it was reconstituted as a wine estate. Massimo oversaw the winery and focused his efforts on expanding market share abroad, increasing production through the addition of Rosso Conero wines, and increasing the area under vines. Over time, Umani Ronchi would extend to over 200 hectares of vines between Le Marche and Abruzzo.

In the early 1990s, Massimo Bernetti was joined by his son Michele, who had recently graduated in economics and business, and completed an internship in London where he worked in the sales department of Umani Ronchi's UK distributor. It was at this time that Massimo decided to further probe advanced cultivation and winemaking techniques, thanks in part to collaborations with experts from major university study centres.

Michele joined Umani Ronchi with his sights set beyond regional borders and decided to partner with Giacomo Tachis, the skilled winemaker known for celebrated wines such as Solaia and Sassicaia. This collaboration resulted in the study of international varieties and how to integrate them into the local territory, and eventually led to an award-winning wine that brought Umani Ronchi into the national and international spotlight. Michele and the technical team are constantly fine-tuning their wines with the goal of crafting wines of uncompromising quality and the ability to stand out. In 2009, this Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio won Gambero Rosso's award for White of the Year. For 20 years, Umani Ronchi has also been a member of the Istituto del Vino di Qualità – Grandi Marchi, an organization that brings together 18 of Italy's most important wine families.

Today, Umani Ronchi is a true international brand and a symbol of Italian excellence. The people behind Umani Ronchi — the human capital — are an asset whose value is inestimable and without which businesses couldn't build their present and future. They promote human well-being and protecting the environment, while innovation, improving production processes, training and skill development are distinctive features of their work culture and identity.

Umani Ronchi's philosophy for sustainability is based on green viticulture. They have a strong ethical approach with deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity, and is manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management and the use of organic fertilizers. Umani Ronchi embraces sustainability in their choice of materials by using low-impact packaging and light glass bottles to reduce Carbon Dioxide emissions, as well as synthetic corks produced from sugar cane, which are 100% recyclable. They also use photovoltaic energy for about half of the winery's annual needs to conserve energy, and reuse the water from the cellar for irrigation. Their thinking and actions are based on ecological and sustainable values.

It is crafted with 100% Verdicchio, from 4 hectares of vines that were planted in the early 1970s in the heart of Verdicchio country, on the left bank of the Esino river. The vineyard is situated at about 250–300 metres above sea level, on an east-facing hillside, where the soil is very deep and fairly fresh, with clay loam composition, conditions which are ideal for Verdicchio vines. The vines were trained using the Double Guyot (arched canes) system. The grapes were hand-harvested and collected in boxes from the end of September to the first ten days of October. After lightly pressing the grapes, the prime must was rapidly cooled and then goes through static decantation. It was fermented in steel tanks over 10–15 days at a controlled temperature between 16°C and 18°C, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation in order to preserve freshness and acidity. The wine was aged for about 10 months in contact with its lees in concrete tanks, followed by a further 6 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2022 growing season in Marche was marked by drought and extreme heat in the vineyards. However, it was the above average rainfall in September that brought the drought index back to normal levels and turned the season into an almost cool one. From a good vintage that was beyond all expectations, let's see how this 2023 Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASAL DI SERRA VECCHIE VIGNE VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2022 - DOC, Marche, Italy (#98111) (XD) - $27.95
Elegant and refined, the medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of white citrus, lime, stony mineral, pear-apple, and almond aromas with herbally accents. It's medium+ bodied and dry with lovely structure and clean acidity that supports the strony mineral driven palate. Citrus, lime, pear-apple flavours are joined by touches of chamomile and spice to add further complexity and intrigue. Juicy, well-structured, and finely textured on the mid-palate. Citrus, lime, and chamomile notes give way to an exceptionally long, stony mineral finish. Ideal with seafood, but will also pair well with poultry, pasta, and vegetarian fare. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Many other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Brancaia N°2 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2021 Brancaia N°2 last year, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this excellent, organic Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maremma Toscana DOC in Italy that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Brancaia, a family-owned winery that was revived in 1981 by Swiss couple Brigitte and Bruno Widmer after they fell in love with each other and purchased an abandoned winery on the Brancaia hill in Castellina in Chianti. At the time, there were only four hectares of vines on the site. They believed that with its location on a hill, it should be possible to produce first-class wines here that reflect the character of the region. With the infrastructure and know-how of the Mazzei family, the Widmer family was able to move forward with the production of quality wine.

Today, Brancaia is a prominent and modern wine producing company. In addition to their property in Castellina, they also have estates in Radda and Maremma, with a combined 80 hectares of vineyards between the three estates. Brancaia is now run by Barbara Widmer, daughter of Brigitte & Bruno, and is supported by the entire family, including the third generation that is also now involved in smaller tasks involving the family business. Barbara has long been involved at the estate by participating in her first harvest in 1993, and began studying oenology in Switzerland in 1995.

The philosophy at Brancaia is based on a mission to craft wines of excellence that are deeply connected to the Tuscan terroir and guided by nature. Brancaia allows Tuscany to speak to them through its landscape and winemaking tradition, while listening attentively as nature shows them the way and allowing it to be expressed. As sustainability is a core value, Brancaia places respect for the environment and the community at the forefront in every action and decision. Each of their wines is born from a perfect balance between terroir, people, and nature.

The work at Brancaia also relies on human knowledge. Brancaia makes use of this knowledge and turns it into art. Each step from winegrowing, hand-harvesting, grape selection, and ageing in bottle is carried out with precision by the Brancaia team, with the goal of revealing the harmony and complexity of the wines. The winery is a multi-level structure that allows for the use of gravity to gently move the wine from one area to another, and largely avoids the use of pumps.

Brancaia has several wineries in Tuscany, with this particular wine coming from their Maremma estate, a vineyard which was acquired by the Widmer family in 1998. After acquiring this vineyard, Barbara took it on as her pet project to develop the vineyard further, and even dedicated her final thesis in oenology to it. Since that time, Barbara and the team have been cultivating their best coastal vineyards at this site in Maremma Toscana, with a special focus on international grape varieties on these sandy loam soil with clay interspersed to produce elegant wines with velvety tannins.

This red wine is crafted with pure Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown in Brancaia's own vineyards situated in the Tuscan coastal region of Maremma, in vineyards with west-to-southwest exposure to sun and situated between 75–175 metres above sea level. The vines are planted on loamy sandy soil, with two-thirds sand and one-third silt and clay, while the climate in this area is Mediterranean with very hot summers and very mild winters. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested over the last sixteen days of September and brought to the winery in Grosseto, sorted on the sorting table, then fermented at a controlled temperature of 28°C, with must contact for up to 18 days. The wine was matured for 12 months in used tonneaux, then aged in bottle for a few months prior to release.

The Tuscan wine region experienced a searingly hot growing season in 2022, but was largely very good. It began with a cool and unusually dry winter, followed by a warm spring, and then a scorching hot summer. Welcoming rains finally arrived at the end of July. While this was a drought year that reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high-quality, with some wines having slightly higher alcohol levels. Let's see how this 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon from Maremma Toscana is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BRANCAIA N°2 2022 - DOC Maremma Toscana, Italy (#28451) (XD) - $33.95
Certified organic, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is elegantly fragrant with an open, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of bright and ripe red cherry, currant, dried herbs, and savoury earth notes accented with rose petals, sweet spices, leather, and cinnamon. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and ripe with lovely red fruited cherry, currant, red licorice, sweet spice, and cinnamon flavours layered over savoury earth, leather, and dried herbs. It has crisp and racy, and slightly tangy acidity, while the smooth tannins have good structure and a fine, dusty texture. Gains grip on the back palate, while the finish is long and savoury with smoky mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

A couple of other lovely wines by Brancaia are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More