Bell'Aja Bolgheri 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful red from Bolgheri that is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon. It arrived at the LCBO just over two weeks ago in the February 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the renowned San Felice, a winery with roots dating back to the times of the Etruscan civilization more than 2,200 years ago. Findings unearthed on the estate show that the Etruscans shaped the Chianti territorial landscape, which also included the introduction of vine cultivation. The Borgo of San Felice, as it's known today, was established in the Middle Ages, with its first mention dating back to the year 714 when it was originally known as San Felice in Avana.

The latest chapter in San Felice's winemaking history begins in the 1960s when the winery changed hands for the first time in generations. After its acquisition, San Felice was developed and modernized, and ushered in a new era focused on quality wine production and research. Today, San Felice is an emblem of authentic Tuscany, with vineyards in the region's three-most prestigious winemaking territories - 150 hectares in Chianti Classico, 23 hectares in Montalcino, and 15 hectares in Bolgheri. In addition to producing wine from only estate-owned grapes, they also have Borgo San Felice Resort - a place where tourists can enjoy a fine Tuscan meal at a Michelin-starred restaurant, or spend some time at the Botanic Spa.

San Felice owns three estates in Tuscany and the Bell'Aja Estate is their newest venture. The six-hectare estate was established in 2016 in Bolgheri, a region famed for the breathtaking five-kilometre Cypress Avenue that is lined with 2,540 trees. Situated near the Tuscan coastline in the commune of Castagneto Carducci, within the province of Livorno, the estate is noted for its world-class vineyard which occupies a natural amphitheatre overlooking the sea, with a breeze that is ideal for winegrowing. The vines at Bell’Aja are planted on silt-sand soils, which are typical of the area, with four hectares dedicated to Merlot, and two hectares dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon. At this special location, the delicious sea breeze blows over the vineyards, while the forests behind them cool the terroir at night, conditions which create the ideal conditions for elegant fruit ripening. Today, San Felice's Bell'Aja estate is known for its highly prestigious Bolgheri and Bolgheri Superiore wines.

This particular red wine is from San Felice's Bell'Aja Estate, a Bolgheri Rosso DOC that is composed of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown on the estate on silt-sandy soil, which is typical of the area. The vines were trained using the spur-pruned cordon system. After harvesting the grapes from the last week of August to the second week of September, it underwent fermentation and maceration for 18 days, followed by 12 months of ageing in French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season was marked by drought that began at the end of winter and persisted for much of spring and summer. The saving grace for this vintage were the series of thunderstorms in mid-August, which was crucial during the grape ripening period. The grapes in Bolgheri responded very positively throughout as they were resilient to the initial lack of water, followed by efficiently metabolizing the rains, which ultimately allowed for optimal ripening, especially for later-ripening varieties. It was an early harvest that began around the third week of August and concluded at the end of September. The end result was low yields with small, concentrated berries that produced red wines with sturdy frames of ripe and grippy tannins. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Bolgheri is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BELL'AJA BOLGHERI 2022 - DOC, Tuscany, Italy (#16890) (XD) - $39.95
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, this is beautifully fresh and elegant with a medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe aromas of red & black wild forest berries, currant, cassis, black cherry, plus rose florals over a layer of savoury wet earth and accents of sweet oak spice. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it has lovely wild forest berries flavours alongside oak spice, wet earth, and touches of dried herbs and graphite. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the refined and textured tannins develop some youthful grip on the back palate. Savoury with graphite mineral notes linger on the long, balanced finish. Enjoy this recommended buy over the coming 6-8 years. Score: 91+ pts

Quite a few wines by San Felice are listed on the LCBO website, with most available in only limited quantities, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cap Royal Rouge Bordeaux Supérieur 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a vegan-friendly and terrific Merlot-based red wine from Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the February 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cap Royal, a wine brand that is owned by wine merchant Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus. Over the last 35 years, the wine merchant has established itself as a key player in the Bordeaux wine trade, both in France and abroad. Médocaine des Grands Crus is a subsidiary of AXA Millésimes, which is the wine business unit of AXA Group. As a company that includes some of the world's finest Châteaux, they listen to their customers and does its utmost to assure their clients of top-quality wines.

Cap Royal owes its name to Cordouan lighthouse, which is the oldest lighthouse in Europe. The lighthouse is situated at the mouth of the Gironde estuary and has always had a bleak reputation due to the perilous nature of the area. Originally built in 1360, the lighthouse has evolved over the centuries to become "The Versailles of the Sea" and was classified as a historic monument in 1862. In 2021, it was officially listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is nicknamed "King of Lighthouses" or "Lighthouse of Kings."

The team at Cap Royal is led by Pierre Montégut, a highly respected winemaker who began his career in winemaking in 1988. Pierre has worked for various prized Château across France and became Technical Director of Château Suduiraut in 2004, a position he still holds today. There are only two wines in this brand, and for Pierre, Cap Royal is a new philosophy and a new challenge: to select the best and create wines of pleasure wine that can be enjoyed by wine lovers all over the world.

When compared with the excellent 2018 Cap Royal Rouge I enjoyed over four years ago, this particular vintage is a blend of the same two grape varieties, but with a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon (up 5%) this time around and composed of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from lots predominantly in the Médoc which were selected for their quality and complexity by Pierre Montégut with winemaker partners. The grapes were fermented in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats, and carefully aged in oak barrels under the regular supervision of Pierre.

The growing season in 2022 produced a legendary vintage in Bordeaux. It began with a cool and dry winter, with conditions persisting throughout spring, which allowed for both an early and successful budburst and flowering. April delivered the usual frosts, while June had significant hailstorms which cut yields. Temperatures continued to rise, with drought conditions settling in, and July was the driest in decades. Prominent heatwaves with virtually no rain from July onward meant the grapes reached phenolic ripeness very easily. Cool nights provided some relief from the heat. Most vineyards managed to escape the wrath of the July and August wildfires as the grapes already had thick skins at that point. Harvest began for the ripest Merlot at the beginning of September. From a vintage that produced exceptionally fine fruit, let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAP ROYAL ROUGE BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2022 - Vegan, AOC, France (#486761) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon has a fresh, lifted, and medium-high intensity nose of ripe black & red berry fruit, currant, cassis, black cherry, blackberry, and grilled herb aromas nuanced with gentle cedar oak and touches of smoky mineral and savoury earth. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it has lovely, well-balanced, currant, cassis, blackberry, and black cherry flavours leyered over savoury earth and smoky minerals, plus grilled herb accents. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the structured and approachable tannins have good bones for ageing. It's gently grippy on the back palate, while berry notes give way to savoury earth and smoky minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Very few of the bottles of the Cap Royal White are currently available at the LCBO, but may be readily available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Villacreces Pruno 2022 and 2011 (Ribera del Duero) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely Tempranillo-based wines from the DO of Ribera del Duero in Spain. The 2022 vintage of this organic red wine arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the mini-feature on wines from Ribera del Duero.

The 2011 Pruno is a bottle I purchased over a decade ago from the September 28, 2013 LCBO VINTAGES Release. While my notes indicated that I probably should've opened this a few years ago, I figured this would be as good a time as any to open it back-to-back with the current vintage.

Both of these wines are produced by Finca Villacreces, a renowned estate winery situated in Spain's Ribera del Duero wine region with a history dating back to at least 1350, when Pedro de Villacreces, a Franciscan friar, was the first documented resident on the estate. Along with a group of ministers, Pedro cultivated the land, including a small vineyard that was used to make wine for their own use and nearby monasteries.

In 1836, the estate came into private hands, and soon thereafter it held rights over the waters of the Duero river. In the early 20th century, the estate was sold to the Cuadrado family from Valladolid. The Cuadrado family used the estate for various agricultural and recreational purposes, including housing illustrious guests. One of these guests was Peter Sisseck, who used the winery and part of the vineyard to craft the notable Flor de Pingus.

In 2004, the Cuadrado family sold the estate to the father and son team of Gonzalo and Lalo Antón, who already owned wineries in Rioja and Toro. After three years of remodelling and painstaking work to restore the vineyard, Finca Villacreces was once again inaugurated. In 2017, the acquisition of Pinos Claros, within the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero, extended the estate's reach to 275 hectares of vineyards, 90% of which are organically farmed.

Today, Finca Villacreces is situated in the heart of Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, amidst a 200-year-old pine forest and bathed to the north by the Duero River. This unique place brings landscape, tradition, and charm together, with a vineyard that is divided into 15 plots that are interspersed with a centenary pine forest. The vineyard at Finca Villacreces is unique because it is conditioned by the diversity of poor soil, which ranges from extremely sandy areas near the pines to the very stony terrain where pebbles from the alluvial deposition of the Duero river predominate.

Finca Villacreces is a 110-hectare estate, with 64 hectares of vineyards. Situated at 700 metres above sea level, the vineyard is subject to an extreme climate with large temperature fluctuations, long winters, and dry summers with low rainfall. However, the surrounding forest protects Finca Villacreces from the most aggressive climatic conditions. The focus at Finca Villacreces is for quality-focused and integrated viticulture, where the vine's natural condition is controlled and preserved in order to obtain wines with the unique Villacreces typicity and personality. Sustainability is also a focus at Finca Villacreces, with some of these initiatives being vineyard adaptation, support for biodiversity, sustainable packaging, and reduction of carbon footprint.

The 2022 vintage of this red wine is crafted with 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot, from grapes grown among the 64 hectares of vineyards located on the estates of Finca Villacreces and Pinos Claros. The average age of the vines is 25 years, and they are trained using a trellis system with light pines. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks with double pissage (bleed off the juice to increase concentration of colour, tannins, and flavour), followed by malolactic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tank, oak fermentation vat, and oak barrels. The wine was aged for 10 months in 75% French and 25% American second- and third-use oak.

The growing season in Ribera del Duero in 2022 was marked by the absence of rain and remarkably hot temperatures, which resulted in irregular ripening levels. While the grapes were healthy, they did exhibit below average weight with a higher ratio of skin to pulp. This also allowed producers to pick at their chosen time, which will play a key role in defining the individual wine styles. It was a long harvest with the last Tempranillo picked in mid-November. From a very good vintage with wines displaying very good structure and complexity, let's see how this 2022 Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VILLACRECES PRUNO 2022 - Vegan, DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe, dark berried, black cherry, currant, and sweet vanillan oak aromas surrounding a core of plum and accented with floral violet. The dry, medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe dark berry, black cherry, and currant flavours in a spicy profile. More savoury on the mid-palate with cedary oak, earth, and mineral notes. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with chalky, drying, and almost astringent tannins. Savoury earth and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, dry finish. Recommended buy that is best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Score: 89 pts

FINCA VILLACRECES PRUNO 2011 - DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon pours a very dark purple colour. It has savoury spice, leather, and mature, stewed black fruit aromas rising out of the glass with medium+ to medium-high intensity. Savoury wet earth and sandalwood with touches of dried herb and black currant add nuance, interest, and complexity. The medium-bodied palate is spicy with savoury black fruit, currant, leather, sandalwood, and dried herb flavours. Acids are still quite refresh, while the textured tannins are slightly astringent and drying. Alcohol peeks through slightly on the mid-palate, while savoury earth and woody notes linger on the long and slightly tangy finish. Past prime with little room for further improvement. Serve at cool, red wine temperature and enjoy now! Really smooth and pleasantly mature on the 2nd day. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Finca Villacreces can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

For my final wine review of the year, tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cape Pastoral, a wine brand based in the Western Cape wine region of South Africa that is focused on crafting organic wines with minimal intervention.

The Western Cape is known for not only its rural beauty, including fauna and flora, but also its grape growers and winemakers, who are well-grounded as the primary preservers of the region's grape-growing soil. Cape Pastoral wines are the result of a harmonious relationship between the Western Cape's grape-growing soil, weather elements, and the natural response of the winemakers to transform the grapes into tasteful wines.

This ethos is reflected on the label of each Cape Pastoral wine. This wine has flowing shades of orange which represent the sun and its role as core source of earth’s energy, while the spots refer to the dispersal of seeds that happens naturally without human interference. The bee is an important pollinator of crops which are facing the threat of deforestation. Together, these visual elements tie into the pastoral style of creative works that idealize rural life and landscapes, while also alluding to the harmony that can exist when humans take a hands-off approach to nature.

Although I was not able to get the exact composition at the time of this post, this red wine is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes were grown and certified organically. After harvesting the grapes, they arrived at the cellar and were meticulously sorted by a sorting machine to ensure only the finest grapes were vinified. It was fermented using natural yeasts, and spent a considerable amount of time on its lees to create a creamy, textured mouthfeel. It also spent some time in oak to add spice characters and soften the tannins.

The growing season for the 2023 vintage in South Africa's winelands was generally dry and warm, with budbreak occurring slightly earlier than average. Conditions were optimal in spring and early summer, with abundant rains early in the season, just before veraison, which aided fruit quality. A cool and wet summer prolonged ripening, while unseasonal rains that arrived in March prolonged the harvest into April for many. This meant that picking decisions and careful vinification was required for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. From a vintage that was cool and long with reduced yields, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAPE PASTORAL ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#36978) (XD) - $13.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of dark fruit and cedary oak spice aromas layered over currant, cassis, earth, and black plum, with hints of chocolate. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has pleasant dark berry, currant, cassis, and oak spice flavours joined by green herbs, savoury earth, and cocoa notes. Clean and well-made with crisp acidity, while the refined and textured tannins are gently grippy. Crisp and juicy with savoury earth, oak spice, and mocha chocolate notes on the lengthy finish. Pleasantly surprised and a recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

There is only one other wine by Cape Pastoral and it can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Solicchiata Secondo di Castello 2012 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Franc-based blend from the volcanic soils of Sicily. It is brand-new to the LCBO, arriving in last month's October 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive, with some quantities still available, mostly in the Ottawa area (with store transfers likely possible).

It is produced by Feudi Barone Spitaleri, an historic château and winery that was established in 1852 by Felice Spitaleri, Marquis of Sant'Elia and Baron of Solicchiata, after he returned to Sicily from his own "grand tour" in France. However, the history of the Spitaleri family goes back much further, as they were named in 1102 after the Order of the Hospitallers Knights. Moreover, the Spitaleri family have been making wine on the volcanic island of Sicily since the 14th century and were creators of the oldest branded wine in the world.

Baron Felice was a pioneer in the art of oenology and used the knowledge he acquired in France to create the first ever Bordeaux varietal blend in Italy. In 1890, he was the first to be recognized with the Royal Warrant of Appointment by HM the King of Italy. In 1907, Antonino, a descendant of Felice, stopped the commercial production of wine, but saved a few vines for family use.

Today, Feudi Barone Spitaleri continues to be proudly owned by the Spitaleri family with brothers Baron Arnaldo and Felice the latest generation of the family to run the estate. Arnaldo revived the production of premium wines in 1997 and heads up the estate, while Felice is the master winemaker of the family wine company. Following the vision of its founder, only French vines are grown on the fertile, volcanic soils of Feudi Barone Spitaleri. The vines are grown on slopes which were formed during the lava flow in 1607 and on these slopes, Felice chose two plots close to each other and created terraces, roads, over 100 km of stone walls, and built an efficient Château solely dedicated to wine production. Feudi Barone Spitaleri grows only highly-selected and sophisticated varieties, instead of the indigenous, yet more productive, varieties. Along with a number of other properties across eastern Sicily, the Spitaleri family also grows some of the most celebrated oranges.

There are two lines of wines produced by Feudi Spitaleri, with this wine coming from their Castello di Solicchiata Vineyard range. As the name suggests, this is the "Second Wine" of the estate, and is inspired by the historic Bordeaux blends using varietals that have been present on their estate in Sicily for more than 150 years. It was Baron Felice Spitaleri who first experimented and planted these varieties by following his passion for Bordelaise vines, a passion which was developed during his prolonged stay in France.

This red wine is composed of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot that was grown on 80 hectares of terraced vineyards with alberello (bush) training. The vineyard is situated on the southwestern slopes of Mount Etna, on volcanic soils, at 800 metres above sea level. After hand-harvesting the grapes, they were macerated (and fermented) in conical oak tanks. The wine was matured for over two years in French Allier and Tronçais oak barriques, followed by further refinement in bottle for three years.

In 2012, the growing season in the Mount Etna area was hot and very dry, with no rain from May to October. As temperatures were well above average during summer, it was one of the warmest ever recorded in Etna, and irrigation was necessary for most growers because the vines were highly stressed. Many growers picked early, however, those who waited for the October rains were rewarded with grapes that offered a better balance between sugar and acidity. From a very good to outstanding vintage, let's see how this 2012 Etna red wine from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SOLICCHIATA SECONDO DI CASTELLO 2012 - IGP Sicily, Italy (#46776) (XD) - $34.95
This blend of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is immediately appealing, while revealing somewhat maturing aromas of dried cherry, rose floral, savoury earth, exotic spices, and cedar wood, plus volcanic ash minerals emerging with time in the glass. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite astringent with drying, mouth puckering tannins. Flavours are savoury with wet earth, cedar wood, cocoa, dark minerals, and oak spice nuanced with dried cherry and rose floral. Mouthwatering acids are juicy and succulent. The long finish is dry with savoury earth, and cedar notes, plus touches of exotic and sweet spices. This recommended buy is a wine for the table to pair with big red meats. Score: 91 pts

Other fine wines by Feudi Barone Spitaleri can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Tour du Haut-Moulin 2015 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine is a lovely Cabernet-Merlot from the Haut-Médoc wine region of Bordeaux that was featured on the back cover of last month's October 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Château Tour du Haut-Moulin, an historic wine estate situated in Cussac-Fort-Médoc, at the heart of Haut-Médoc, on the Left Bank of Bordeaux. The commune of Cussac-Fort-Médoc lies between Saint-Julien to the north, and Margaux to the south. The estate was established in 1870 and was managed by the Cazaux-Poitou family for 6 generations. As the 6th generation of the family, the current proprietor, Lionel Poitou, has been a part of the property since he was born and has been managing the family estate for nearly four decades. Lionel's philosophy is based on careful observation, attention to nature, and respect for tradition.

In 2024, Château Tour du Haut-Moulin was acquired by Tzora Vineyards, a wine company owned by the Hevrony and Flam families, two leading producers of the Judaean Hills region of Israel. The team at Château Tour du Haut-Moulin is now led by four individuals: Eran Pick MW, Golan Flam, Dan Sheinman, and Lionel Poitou. Eran holds a B.Sc. degree in Viticulture and Enology with Highest Honours from University of California, Davis. Golan has been making wine for over 25 years, while also having a B.Sc. from the Faculty of Agriculture and a Masters in Enology. Dan has a B.Sc. degree in plant sciences, and then began his journey in winemaking by focusing on both vineyard and cellar approaches and practices in Burgundy. Together, they have a shared vision to maximize the potential of the estate, while maintaining its long-standing history and tradition.

The 10-hectare vineyard at Château Tour du Haut-Moulin is planted to mainly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a small amount of Petit Verdot, all of which is grown on the gravelly soils of the Médoc. The wines of Lionel Poitou are crafted in a style that emphasizes finesse and elegance over brute power.

The 2015 growing season with a combination of warm days and cool nights during March and early April, while the rest of April through May featured very warm and dry conditions, leading to a rapid and precocious flowering. June and July were exceptionally hot and without any rain, which eventually caused some drought stress on the vines. However, four separate rainstorms in August brought some relief to the vines. Heavy rains came in mid-September, prior to the red wine harvest, followed by sunshine with cool nights. There was more rain during the first weekend of October, but both Merlot and Cabernets were picked in unhurried conditions. From a very good to outstanding vintage for wines from the southern Médoc, let's see how this 2015 Haut-Médoc from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TOUR DU HAUT-MOULIN 2015 - AOC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#26295) (XD) - $27.95
Blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that was matured in French oak, only 30% new. The medium-high intensity nose is rich with ripe black fruits, black cherry, currant, and blackberry aromas that mingle with oak spice, graphite minerality, and savoury earth, plus touches of dark plum. The elegant, well-structured, medium+ bodied palate is dry with lovely black fruited, black cherry, currant, blackberry, graphite, savoury minerals, and earth flavours. Acids are succulent and juicy, while the tannins are youthfully grippy and chalky textured, yet approachable. Graphite mineral notes linger on the long, savoury, and slightly grippy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Any other wines by this Château can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Cap Classique Brut Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2022 and Pat's Garden Reserve 2020 (South Africa) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from one of my favourite South African wine producers - Ken Forrester Wines. Both of these terrific wines arrived at the LCBO recently, with the red wine making its debut at the LCBO in the September 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the sparkling wine landed in the October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Ken Forrester Wines was established in 1993 by Ken Forrester and his wife, Teresa, after they acquired at a public auction a vacant and derelict farm and homestead that was situated on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, in the heart of Stellenbosch, South Africa's premier wine growing region. The site is one of the oldest farms in the Cape, with a long history that dates back to 1689, and the first vines were planted in 1694. The farm changed hands a number of times over the years, eventually falling on hard times in the early 1990s and finding itself up for auction.

The vision at Ken Forrester Wines is for sustainable farming - to improve the lot of their employees by growing their own business, and thereby providing maximum job opportunities in a market that is desperate for support. In the vineyard, Ken Forrester farms sustainably without the use of herbicides and pesticides. They also till the soil, prune, thin bunches and leaves, and harvest by hand. With this additional employment, they hope that it goes some way to improving the quality of life in their community, and they know that if every community looked after their own, no one would go wanting. This is their proposal, and consequently, each bottle is a victory and represents a small change – for the better – in someone's life. Additionally, Ken Forrester Wines are certified for Integrity & Sustainability by the South African Wine and Spirit Board.

At Ken Forrester Wines, the winemaking philosophy is based on managing their vineyards in a sustainable manner, along with a workplace environment and work ethic that should be a shining light in the industry. They have several ranges of wines that are handcrafted and individually made to complement a wide variety of cuisines and provide excellent value. The Pat's Garden is part of their Reserve Wine Range, where the team at Ken Forrester is solely responsible for the cultivation of the vines and selection of the fruit, most of which come from their family property in Stellenbosch, just 5 kilometres from the cool Atlantic and in the sheltered lee of the majestic Helderberg Mountain. The sparkling wine is part of Ken Forrester's Cellar Exclusives Range - a collection of special and limited parcels of wines.

An interesting note about the red wine is that while it used to be known as "Pat's Garden Merlot", it was always blended with 8–12% Cabernet Franc. The wine laws in South Africa allow for wines to be labelled as a single varietal wine so long as the blend does not exceed 15% of other varieties. The team at Ken Forrester began doing some experimentation by blending the 4 traditional Bordeaux varieties and with the 2018 vintage they launched the Pat's Garden Reserve wine.

The 2020 growing season in South Africa featured moderate to warm growing conditions, which continued into late autumn, while the 2022 vintage was one of the wettest and coldest in recent memory. There was a sudden heat spike just before harvest in 2022, but fall was generally cool and moderate. Both vintages were rated excellent, so let's see how this 2020 red and 2022 sparkling wine from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEN FORRESTER SPARKLEHORSE CAP CLASSIQUE BRUT SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC 2022 - Traditional Method, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#32030) (D) - $29.95
Aged on its lees for 20 months, the elegantly fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers lovely aromas of autolytic, toasty, leesy, biscuit, and honey characters surrounding a core of lemon citrus and golden apple. It has a finely beaded mousse and racy, gently tangy acidity on the medium+ bodied palate with delicious autolytic, biscuit, toasty, lemon citrus, and apple flavours, plus touches of honey in a fairly dry profile. Juicy on the mid-palate, while the long finish is savoury with leesy mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEN FORRESTER PAT'S GARDEN RESERVE 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#45169) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 44% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Verdot has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is well-balanced with complex aromas of ripe red & black fruits, currant, raspberry, blackberry, cassis, oak spice, cocoa, savoury wet earth, and dried herbs with touches of leafy green herb notes. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and slightly chewy with more ripe red & black fruits, currant, cassis, raspberry, blackberry, oak spice, savoury wet earth, cocoa, and dried herb flavours. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the elegant tannins are smooth, refined, and gently grippy on the back palate. Impeccably balanced throughout with red & black fruits mingling with savoury wet earth, oak spice, and smoky minerals on the long finish. Has the stuffing to age gracefully for at least another 5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Ken Forrester is widely available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva Garnacha / Tempranillo / Cariñena / Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend of 4 varieties from the Cariñena appellation in northeastern Spain. It is a frequent visitor to the LCBO, arriving most recently in last month's September 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Grandes Vinos, a grower-driven wine company whose roots go back more than half a century when winegrowers in the district of Cariñena formed five cooperatives between 1950 and 1967. This passion for wine and everything that surrounds it were the beginnings of Grandes Vinos, which was officially formed in 1997.

Today, Grandes Vinos is the union of more than 700 families of winegrowers who share their hard work and know-how to create wines that combine tradition and innovation, and have no borders. The winegrowers are the protagonists, ensuring that the legacy of Cariñena lives on today and is passed down from one generation to the next. To speak of Grandes Vinos is to speak of a unique land, of tradition, of sunshine, of rain, of effort and dedication, and, of course, passion. For their protagonists, vine growing is not only a passion, but a way of life.

Cariñena is the only land in the world that gives its name to a grape varietal - Cariñena - which is also known as Carignan. The land of Cariñena is a territory that treasures old vineyards at different altitudes, soil with ancient stones, and a strong, dry wind (El Cierzo) that gives personality to the wine. Cariñena, the land, has been linked to wine since the Romans of the 3rd Century B.C., when they mixed wine with honey. Today, Grandes Vinos has over 4,500 hectares of vineyards of all ages (some over 100 years old) located in the foothills of the Iberian sierras of Algairén and Pecos, and between the rivers Huerva and Jalón, at altitudes between 320 and 850 metres above sea level. The land below these vineyards is made up of age-old stony soil, with layers of rocks and earth.

Grandes Vinos produces many wines under several different and unique brands, with this particular wine bottled under their Monasterio de las Viñas range - their Spanish brand which has the greatest international presence. The fruit for all Monasterio de las Viñas wines come exclusively from vineyards in the municipality of Aguarón, one of the highest areas and with the highest quality production of Cariñena PDO wines. The wines of Monasterio de las Viñas are produced mainly using indigenous varieties and pay homage to the famous Monasterio de las Viñas that was built by Cistercian monks in the 11th century. The monastery was erected in a privileged place in the Sierra de Aguarón, and whose widespread notoriety is in turn attributed to its spirituality as well as the great quality of its wines.

This particular red wine is a blend of Garnacha (Grenache), Tempranillo, Cariñena (Carignan), and Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown in Aguarón, in the province of Zaragoza, Aragon, in northeastern Spain. These vineyards are more than 30 years old and feature clayey clear soil with stones on the upper substrates. The grapes were traditionally vinified, then aged for 12 months in 70% American and 30% French oak barrels.

The 2020 vintage was a difficult one in Spain, not only due to the fall-out from COVID, but also from the growing season, which began with an unusually wet but warm spring, which brought humidity and any associated disease problems. Producers that remained vigilant in managing mildew produced quality fruit. Hot weather eventually arrived, which helped the grapes dry out and rid them of disease, while allowing the grapes to reach phenolic ripeness ahead of time, which led to an earlier than normal harvest. From a good vintage that produced wines with elegance, let's see how this 2020 red blend from the Cariñena appellation in Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS RESERVA GARNACHA / TEMPRANILLO / CARIÑENA / CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - DO Cariñena, Spain (#166579) (XD) - $16.95
The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of ripe red cherry, dried herbs, dark berry, fine wood spice, and chocolate aromas nuanced with touches of dried rose floral, dried cherry, and sweet spices. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and quite ripe with delicious red & black cherry, wood spice, coconut, vanilla, and dried herb flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity and fine, dusty textured tannins. It's nicely balanced throughout with savoury, earthy oak, and coconut notes on the lengthy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A couple of other wines from Monasterio de las Viñas brand are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a consistently delicious Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia that returned to Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 27th.

It is produced by Wakefield Wines, also known as Taylors Wines in their home market of Australia. The estate winery was established in 1969 in Australia's Clare Valley by Bill Taylor Sr. and his two sons, Bill Taylor Jr. and John Taylor. They acquired some land near the Wakefield river in Clare Valley and discovered fossilized seahorses during an excavation - elements which exist as part of their current branding.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by the third generation of the Taylor family — brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton. After 25 years as Managing Director, Mitchell stepped into the role of Chairman of the Board a few months ago, thus allowing him to focus more on vision, succession, and guiding the next generation of leadership. Justin focuses more on the Export market and Global Key Accounts, while Clinton is the General Manager - Winery Operations.

As one of Australia's most renowned and respected wine producers, the philosophy at Wakefield has always rested on the principle that the finest wines are those made with the greatest dedication and care, while also respecting the fruit. The Taylor family is committed to both the land and sea, with sustainability a core pillar with a goal of applying the best practiced principles in environmental management to enhance sustainable business activities and products. As a family-owned company, they are committed to ensuring that they operate in a responsible and sustainable manner, thus setting up the future for generations to come.

Wakefield has several lines of wines, and this particular red wine is from their Jaraman range. The name "Jaraman" is derived from an indigenous term meaning "seahorse" and is a nod to the discovery of fossilized seahorses in the Clare Valley. The premium range of Jaraman wines celebrates Australia's iconic wine regions, which provide great diversity in soil and terroir. With the Jaraman range, the Taylor family searches for parcels of extraordinary fruit to craft wines that showcase their distinctive regional characteristics and style. The fruit for Jaraman wines is sourced from celebrated Australian wine regions that are renowned for the particular variety - Clare Valley and Coonawarra in the case of this Cabernet Sauvignon. When crafting these wines, the winemakers ensure that rhe distinct regional characteristics of each variety are preserved and enhanced, with the fruit as the star and any winemaking influencing the supporting act. Jaraman wines showcase the skill and dedication of our winemakers, while maintaining their philosophy of respecting the fruit.

While this red is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is composed of 51% Clare Valley and 49% Coonawarra fruit, and is almost identical in composition to the 2021 Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon that I enjoyed a couple of years ago. After undergoing traditional vinification, the parcels of fruit were blended and matured for up to 14 months in French oak barrels (10% new and remaining in 1 to 2 year old), followed by fining, minimal filtration, and then bottling.

The growing season in Clare Valley in 2022 featured mild and sunny days without rain or humidity. It was an idyllic season of uninterrupted and stunningly beautiful weather, which resulted in a vintage of both quality and quality. In Coonawarra, it was a cool season with good yields and an extended ripening period due to the mild autumn days and cool nights, resulting in wines with great varietal definition, including depth of colour. Cabernet Sauvignon was a predictable standout in Coonawarra in this vintage. Let's see how this 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - South Australia (#142398) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit from both Clare Valley and Coonawarra has a fresh, lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that is cool and minty with red & black fruits, cassis, and currant aromas, plus shadings of smoky oak, savoury earth, leafy herbs, and spice notes. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with red & black fruited currant, cassis, raspberry, and blackberry flavours in a slightly brambly profile, plus leafy herbs, mint, and savoury oak notes adding a savoury component. It has crisp, fresh, and slightly tangy acidity, along with smooth, finely textured tannins with supple grip. Minty herb notes give way to savoury oak flavours on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A wide assortment of Wakefield Wines are available at the LCBO, and can also be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Brancaia N°2 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2021 Brancaia N°2 last year, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this excellent, organic Cabernet Sauvignon from the Maremma Toscana DOC in Italy that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Brancaia, a family-owned winery that was revived in 1981 by Swiss couple Brigitte and Bruno Widmer after they fell in love with each other and purchased an abandoned winery on the Brancaia hill in Castellina in Chianti. At the time, there were only four hectares of vines on the site. They believed that with its location on a hill, it should be possible to produce first-class wines here that reflect the character of the region. With the infrastructure and know-how of the Mazzei family, the Widmer family was able to move forward with the production of quality wine.

Today, Brancaia is a prominent and modern wine producing company. In addition to their property in Castellina, they also have estates in Radda and Maremma, with a combined 80 hectares of vineyards between the three estates. Brancaia is now run by Barbara Widmer, daughter of Brigitte & Bruno, and is supported by the entire family, including the third generation that is also now involved in smaller tasks involving the family business. Barbara has long been involved at the estate by participating in her first harvest in 1993, and began studying oenology in Switzerland in 1995.

The philosophy at Brancaia is based on a mission to craft wines of excellence that are deeply connected to the Tuscan terroir and guided by nature. Brancaia allows Tuscany to speak to them through its landscape and winemaking tradition, while listening attentively as nature shows them the way and allowing it to be expressed. As sustainability is a core value, Brancaia places respect for the environment and the community at the forefront in every action and decision. Each of their wines is born from a perfect balance between terroir, people, and nature.

The work at Brancaia also relies on human knowledge. Brancaia makes use of this knowledge and turns it into art. Each step from winegrowing, hand-harvesting, grape selection, and ageing in bottle is carried out with precision by the Brancaia team, with the goal of revealing the harmony and complexity of the wines. The winery is a multi-level structure that allows for the use of gravity to gently move the wine from one area to another, and largely avoids the use of pumps.

Brancaia has several wineries in Tuscany, with this particular wine coming from their Maremma estate, a vineyard which was acquired by the Widmer family in 1998. After acquiring this vineyard, Barbara took it on as her pet project to develop the vineyard further, and even dedicated her final thesis in oenology to it. Since that time, Barbara and the team have been cultivating their best coastal vineyards at this site in Maremma Toscana, with a special focus on international grape varieties on these sandy loam soil with clay interspersed to produce elegant wines with velvety tannins.

This red wine is crafted with pure Cabernet Sauvignon that was grown in Brancaia's own vineyards situated in the Tuscan coastal region of Maremma, in vineyards with west-to-southwest exposure to sun and situated between 75–175 metres above sea level. The vines are planted on loamy sandy soil, with two-thirds sand and one-third silt and clay, while the climate in this area is Mediterranean with very hot summers and very mild winters. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested over the last sixteen days of September and brought to the winery in Grosseto, sorted on the sorting table, then fermented at a controlled temperature of 28°C, with must contact for up to 18 days. The wine was matured for 12 months in used tonneaux, then aged in bottle for a few months prior to release.

The Tuscan wine region experienced a searingly hot growing season in 2022, but was largely very good. It began with a cool and unusually dry winter, followed by a warm spring, and then a scorching hot summer. Welcoming rains finally arrived at the end of July. While this was a drought year that reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high-quality, with some wines having slightly higher alcohol levels. Let's see how this 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon from Maremma Toscana is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BRANCAIA N°2 2022 - DOC Maremma Toscana, Italy (#28451) (XD) - $33.95
Certified organic, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is elegantly fragrant with an open, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of bright and ripe red cherry, currant, dried herbs, and savoury earth notes accented with rose petals, sweet spices, leather, and cinnamon. The medium+ weighted palate is dry and ripe with lovely red fruited cherry, currant, red licorice, sweet spice, and cinnamon flavours layered over savoury earth, leather, and dried herbs. It has crisp and racy, and slightly tangy acidity, while the smooth tannins have good structure and a fine, dusty texture. Gains grip on the back palate, while the finish is long and savoury with smoky mineral notes. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

A couple of other lovely wines by Brancaia are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Featherstone Rosé 2024 (Niagara) - Wine Review

For tonight's rosé wine review, I sip local with this delicious, just-off-dry Cabernet-Gamay blend from Niagara that was featured as part of the theme on food-friendly rosé wines in the June 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Niagara's own Featherstone Estate Winery. This eco-friendly winery was established in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband Dave Johnson. Together, they built Featherstone with a dedication to excellence in food and a passion for wine. In 2024, amidst its 25th anniversary since its inception, Featherstone underwent a transformative purchase and is now owned by philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

While Featherstone may be under new ownership, Rayla and George look to build on the successes of the past. Featherstone continues to craft distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. Featherstone prides itself as being insecticide-free since the beginning and are practitioners of eco-friendly farming. The philosophy at Featherstone is based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and its site. Nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in the give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, in a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. In 2023, Featherstone received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This rosé is crafted in a just off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) style using 46.7% Gamay, 42.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11.1% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were machine harvested over 16 days in the middle of October, then optically sorted, crushed, and de-stemmed. The grapes underwent a cold soak maceration on skins for 24 hours and were then pressed and transferred into stainless steel fermentation tanks. After 8 hours of juice flotation settling, it was then racked off gross lees. It was fermented with the commercial yeast strain Actiflore Rosé at a controlled temperature of 15°C and bottled in early February.

The growing season in 2024 in Niagara had perfect conditions from early budbreak to the warm and late fall that allowed for long hang time of the grape bunches, especially for the Bordeaux red varieties. Summer was marked by above-average temperatures, with warm days and warmer-than-usual evenings, which meant a reduced diurnal temperature range and resulted in grapes with intense flavours and colour development. It was a drama-free growing season for the thick-skinned grapes such as the Bordeaux varieties, which weathered the rain and allowed picking to occur at a leisurely pace in the fall. There were also no issues with Gamay. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2024 Rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ 2024 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#117861) (D) - $16.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this blend of 46.7% Gamay, 42.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11.1% Cabernet Franc pours a fairly deep pink colour with orange accents. The ripe, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers candied red berry, strawberry-rhubarb, red apple, red cherry, watermelon, and honey aromas, plus touches of stony minerals. It's fairly light-weighted on the palate with spice notes joining the candied red berry, cherry, strawberry-rhubarb, and watermelon flavours. It has clean, fresh, and vibrant acidity, along with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. While a touch sweet on the mid-palate, this tapers to tangy red berry, savoury, leesy minerals, and spice notes on the dry, juicy, and lengthy finish. A crowd-pleasing, recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery.

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Château Tanesse 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Bordeaux red from the Right Bank that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the April 26th LCBO VINTAGES Release Collection.

It is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native land of Algeria in 1962 to start a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, Gironde, in the great wine region of Bordeaux. Paul bought Château de Marsan, which was in ruins at the time, but was surrounded by promising terroirs. He began the adventure with three hectares of grapes, then developed the property's arboricultural activity with the help of the entire family.

Paul's three sons became actively involved in the estate and in local life, with his eldest son, Pierre, becoming mayor of the local municipality, while Philippe became involved in running the property at a very early age, and the youngest son, Eric, carrying out his first vinification in 1985. The Gonfrier family continued to grow the estate with each passing year, with the objective of excellence: ensuring that each variety of grape is carefully selected to best express each plot's special characteristics, while also employing vinification techniques among the vines and in the cellar that seek to allow the terroir to express its finest qualities.

Today, Vignobles Gonfrier is led by brothers Eric and Philippe Gonfrier. Their recognition of exceptional quality wines has allowed them to acquire additional vineyards to further refine their blends. With over 1,000 hectares of vines, state-of-the-art equipment and facilities, the Gonfrier family goes out of its way to craft top-quality wines with sensitivity and respect for the concept of terroir. The third-generation of the family is also now involved in the family business, with Thibault, Philippe’s son, joining the company and expending great effort on taking care of the well-maintained vineyards in an environmentally respectful manner. In 2018, Thibault's sister, Audrey, also joined the company following her successful time spent at a Bordeaux wine merchant. Eric's three children are currently finishing up their studies and are eager to integrate into the family business by implementing new modern skills and knowledge. Their deep-rooted values are: passion for their work, respect for their clients, respect for their commitments, respect for the environment, and defence of their independence and freedom of action.

Château Tanesse is located in the Langoiran district of the AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, a sub-appellation of the within the Entre-Deux-Mers wine region on the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Built in the second half of the 18th century by the Tanesse family, the Bordeaux charterhouse is located on a high hillock among Langoiran's sloping vineyards, and overlooks the commune's medieval 13th-century castle and offers a magnificent, panoramic view that stretches from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, while following the meanders of the Garonne River. The property is surrounded by a 30-hectare vineyard that sits atop very old foundations and has exceptional terroir.

This red wine is a blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil in the vineyard surrounding the Château. The vineyard is managed using sustainable viticulture (certified HVE3), while the Gonfrier family is also committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach certified by Ecovadis. The vines average 25 years old and were trained in the traditional Bordeaux-style, with two canes and a flat arch, along with controlled grassing-down of the vine rows or mechanical working of the soil in order to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. The grapes were manually green harvested, to allow for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while also mechanically harvested. After destemming, crushing, and vatting, the grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks, with a prolonged maceration to extract tannins and showcase the terroir. And finally, the wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

Despite the pandemic, the 2020 growing season produced a legendary vintage. The growing season began with a balmy but frequently wet spring, which ensured both an early and successful budburst and flowering, while also putting the vineyards in good shape for the arrival of a hot and dry summer. Conditions were mostly arid throughout summer, with intermittent thunderstorms providing just enough water relief. The Right Bank had fewer deluges than the Left, but producers still had to be extremely vigilant at managing disease. Harvest took place during the chaos of COVID, but the weather in fall brought warm days and chilly nights, allowing the Bordeaux varieties to reach phenolic ripeness. While yields were slightly smaller than average, the fruit was healthy and of high quality. Let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TANESSE 2020 - Sustainable, AC Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, France (#666628) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc is richly fragrant and inviting, with a medium-high to highly aromatic nose of lovely ripe dark fruits, black cherry, currant, cassis, and wood spice aromas surrounding a core of savoury earth and accented with graphite, mineral, and whiffs of rose floral. It's medium+ bodied and dry with ripe black cherry, currant, cassis, earthy, and graphite flavours in a well-balanced profile with crisp and juicy acidity. Accessible, medium-level tannins are well-structured and provide a nicely textured mouthfeel. Savoury with earthy and graphite notes linger on the long, gently grippy finish. Should drink nicely into the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

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Wakefield Estate Label Wines - Degrees Matter

Last month I had the pleasure of attending a media event titled "The Temperature Experience". I had the opportunity to Chill Out with Justin Taylor, a third generation family member of renowned and well-respected Wakefield Wines (also known as Taylors Wines in their home country of Australia). The purpose of this event was to taste Wakefield's latest Estate Series of wines that are now available in Ontario, and, more importantly, to stimulate our senses and find out why degrees matter.

Wakefield Wines was established in 1969 by Bill Taylor Sr. in South Australia's Clare Valley. Bill found a perfect plot of land by the Wakefield River to establish the family estate and planted his first Cabernet Sauvignon vines that would eventually find its way into the family's first wine in 1973 - the Estate Label Cabernet Sauvignon. During the excavation of the land to find a water source for the vines, they discovered tiny seahorses in the limestone bedrock that date back more than 600 million years - seahorses that became the winery's symbol and emblem for over 50 years.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by the third generation of the family - brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton. Their focus is on continuing the family tradition by crafting delicious wines that not only stand the test of time, but are also crafted in a sustainable and responsible manner that respects the fruit and where it comes from.

With a strong innovative spirit, the Taylor family launched an industry-first on-the-bottle temperature sensor in 2016 that helps ensure that wine drinkers enjoy Wakefield wines at the optimum temperature. I covered the Optimum Drinking Temperature Sensor a few years ago when the wines with these innovative labels first made their way into Canada in 2020.

At this event, we had the opportunity to taste four Estate Label wines that are available in Ontario and compare the difference when experiencing the wine that was served either too warm or too cold and the optimum temperature. First up was a refreshing Chardonnay. However, the aromas and flavours were a bit muted when served too cold. There was much more intensity, depth, flavours, and texture when the Chardonnay was served at the ideal suggested temperature of 10–12°C.

The Sauvignon Blanc was terribly imbalanced and dull when served too warm. The suggested temperature for the Wakefield Sauvignon Blanc is 6–8°C, and at this cooler temperature the wine comes alive with refreshing acidity and bright fruit flavours. It is important to note that the wine shouldn't be served too cold either, because this will mute the wine and you won't get to experience all that it offers.

Both red wines were absolutely gross when served too warm. To illustrate this, the warm wines were poured out of a thermos and one sip had me spit and dump the wine into a spittoon. The suggested temperature for each of their reds is between 16–18°C and each wine was lovely at this temperature, showcasing both the fruit and oak in their aromas and flavours, along with a fine texture, with everything in balance.

The key takeaway is that temperature plays a very important role in how you experience a wine and how it impacts your enjoyment. Serving wine at the correct temperature enhances aromas and flavours, affects the wine's structure, alters perception of sweetness & alcohol, and preserves the wine's integrity. The suggested serving temperature for white wines is between 6–12°C, and I would personally lean a little warmer for richer white wines such as Chardonnay. For red wines, the suggested serving temperature is between 12–18°C. The old adage of serving red wines at "room temp" is from a bygone era when central heating didn't exist and rooms were generally cold. There are various methods you can use to cool down (ice bath, freezer, refrigerator, etc...) or warm up your wine (rest at room temperature, hold glass in your hands, etc...). Personally, all my wines are placed in the refrigerator, at the back of the top shelf for cooling, with the white wines resting there for 50 to 60 minutes prior to opening, and the red wines for 45 minutes.

All Estate Label wines, including the four listed below, have the innovative temperature sensor on the back label. The Chardonnay and the Shiraz are available year-round at the LCBO as they are VINTAGES Essentials products, while the Sauvignon Blanc (which hasn't been in Ontario in many years) and Cabernet Sauvignon arrived in Ontario a week ago in the April 12th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. All four are worthy buys, and with a convenient temperature sensor on the back label, you can actively taste the difference that temperature makes!

To use the sensor, simply wipe away any moisture from the circular Temperature Sensor to reveal its true colour, then match its colour to the chart on the left to see if you are serving the wine at the correct temperature.

Tasting Notes:

WAKEFIELD ESTATE LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 - Adelaide Hills / Margaret River, Australia (#166942) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap. Fresh, medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of gooseberry, lime citrus, grapefruit, lemongrass, and green herb aromas with leesy undertones. It's medium-full bodied with good weight, concentration, and richness, along with delicious ripe lime citrus, gooseberry, and grapefruit, herbs, and leesy flavours on the palate. Mostly dry with a vague impression of sweetness and a richly textured mouthfeel. Acids are clean and well-balanced. Lime citrus, gooseberry, and grapefruit notes taper to leesy flavours on the long, crisp, and juicy finish. Best enjoyed at the temperature suggested on the back label. Score: 89 pts

WAKEFIELD ESTATE LABEL CHARDONNAY 2022 - Clare Valley / Limestone Coast, South Australia (#711556) (XD) - $16.95 $15.95 until Apr. 27
Served at 8C, this has fresh, citrusy, lemon, and ripe tropical fruit nose. It's nicely textured and a touch grippy on the medium+ bodied and dry palate with delicious aroma replays on the flavour profile It has fresh and lively acidity, and is nicely balanced throughout. Very good length on the crisp finish. At the ideal temperature of between 10-12C, it allowed the wine to breathe and release more complex aromas and flavours, while also offering a more richer, rounder, and creamier mouthfeel. It was definitely much better at the slightly warmer temperatures and continued to improve as it warmed up in my glass. Score: 89 pts

WAKEFIELD ESTATE LABEL SHIRAZ 2022 - Clare Valley / Limestone Coast, South Australia (#943787) (XD) - $19.95 $17.95 until Apr. 27

Generously intense with ripe plum, black cherry, blackberry aromas nuanced with some savoury cocoa, milk chocolate, and vanilla notes. The salty, medium-full bodied palate is well-structured with delicious aroma replays and notable spicy, cocoa chocolate, blackberry, and black plum flavours. It has very good, crisp acidity and supple, well-structured tannins. Nicely textured with earthy, cocoa, and savoury notes on the finish, with very good length. Score: 88+ pts

WAKEFIELD ESTATE LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - Limestone Coast / Clare Valley, South Australia (#744235) (XD) - $19.95
52% Limestone Coast and 48% Clare Valley fruit and enclosed by screw cap. The rich, medium-high intensity nose offers lovely dark fruited, black currant, cassis, cedar oak spice, cocoa, and earthy aromas accented with leafy herbs and mint. It's full-bodied and ripe on the dry palate with black & red fruits, currant, cassis, gentle oak spice, and savoury earth flavours accented with plummy and minty herb notes. Acids are crisp and fresh, while the ripe, refined, and mildly grippy tannins are well-structured. Clean and well-balanced with savoury black fruit and cocoa notes lingering on the lengthy finish. Score: 89 pts

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