Artemivske Victory White Brut Sparkling and Red Semi-Sweet Sparkling (Ukraine) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's sparkling wine reviews are a pair of brand-new arrivals that landed at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the November 30 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Artwinery, a sparkling wine producer in Ukraine that was established in 1950, but whose history goes back to the 19th century.

Ukranian history in the production of traditional method sparkling wines begins with Prince Lev Golitsyn, who bought an estate in Novyi Svit, on the southern shores of Crimea, that was completely destroyed during the Crimean War. By 1882, the Prince's factory was able to revive Crimean winemaking by producing traditional method sparkling wines. During this period, in the town of Bakhmut, in the eastern part of the country, engineer Edmund Farke signed a contract with the government for the construction of alabaster factories, which became a thriving enterprise. The extraction of gypsum for the factories resulted in a large underground mine, 70 metres below ground, which had a micro-climate that allowed for fermentation to take place, and was the beginning of unique wine production in Ukraine.

The celebration of victory following World War II required a special drink, and in the 1940s they started working on creating "Soviet sparkling wine", which had to be of at least equal quality to Champagne. They used the underground galleries of Bakhmut, which was known as Artemivsk back then, for the production of classical sparkling wines, and by 1950, the wine factory was officially established. These wines were tasty, high-quality, and the most hard-to-find in the U.S.S.R., as they were distributed mostly in stores for those that worked for the party, while off-limits to ordinary citizens.

As Ukraine gained its independence in 1991, the wine factory began creating sparkling wines under its own brands - Artemivske and Krim. In 2007, the winery began upgrading the plant with more modern and powerful units, while the laboratory was completely renovated. Furthermore, some processes that were manually performed are also now automated. These upgrades allowed the winery to produce 25 million bottles per year. In 2016, the company got its new name - Artwinery. By 2020, Artwinery's sparkling wines were gaining global recognition and winning prizes at international industry competitions and exhibitions.

Today, Artwinery is the largest in Eastern Europe and the only one in Ukraine to produce sparkling wines in the classic Champenoise method where re-fermentation of the wine and its saturation with bubbles is carried out naturally in bottle. As we know - place matters, and as such, Bakhmut is situated at the same latitude and climatic zone as Champagne. The grapes used to create Artwinery's sparkling wines are grown in the fertile soils of southern Ukraine, in the sunny climates of Odesa, Kherson, and Mykolaiv. With the war in Ukraine ongoing, the workers continue producing wine in secret locations to not let the Russians stop their work.

These particular sparkling wines are from Artwinery's Artemivske range. The Artemivske brand is only 10 years old, but has become the #1 sparkling wine in Ukraine and is a favourite among several generations as it evokes the warmth of your family memories and the brightest everyday emotions. Today, the Artemivske brand retains its impeccable quality and enjoys constant popularity. Each bottle in the Artemivske range is fermented using their special in-house yeast and aged in bottle for at least 9 months and offers a delicate bouquet and taste. Let's see how these sparkling wines from Ukraine are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY RED SEMI-SWEET SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40768) (MS) - $18.95
Crafted in the Charmat method, this blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Saperavi has a medium intensity nose that is gently spicy, followed by macerated black cherry, dark berry, milk chocolate, cocoa, dark plum, cassis, and currant aromas. It's mid-weighted and gently sweet with black cherry, plummy, dark berry, savoury spices, and chocolate flavours supported by gently frothy mousse and bright acidity that tempers the sweetness. Quite harmonious and balanced throughout, even some sense of elegance, while savoury cocoa and milk chocolate notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY WHITE BRUT SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40769) (D) - $18.95
Blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Aligoté crafted in the Charmat method. The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers ripe peach, nectarine, honeysuckle, and freshly sliced apple aromas accented with orange and citrus notes. There's a touch of sweetness alongside bitterness on the crisp, refreshing, and slightly frothy light-to-mid-weighted palate with lively acidity and bubbles. Gently sweet flavours of apple, pear, orchard fruit, and white floral, plus notes of peach and citrus. Juicy and succulent on the mid-palate, while leesy notes linger on the essentially dry finish, with very good length. Appealing crowd-pleaser. Recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Artwinery can be purchased through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Castelli del Grevepesa Castelgreve Chianti Classico 2021 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Chianti Classico that is mainly Sangiovese. It is featured on the back cover of the August 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection printed magazine (which is unavailable) and being released in stores and online this weekend due to the implications of the strike, and can be purchased now.

Like the excellent 2019 Clemente VII Gran Selezione Chianti Classico and other wines I've enjoyed in the past, this red wine is produced by Castelli del Grevepesa. Situated in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany, Italy, Castelli del Grevepesa is a modern, co-operative winery that has a history which is deeply intertwined with the rich winemaking heritage of the Chianti Classico wine region.

Castelli del Grevepesa was established with a mission to safeguard and promote the traditional viticulture of Tuscany in 1965 by visionary Sir Armando Nunzi and an initial group of seventeen winegrowers as one of Italy's first co-operative wineries. As small-scale growers, they realized the potential of pooling their resources and generations of know-how to produce wine collectively. In the co-operative model of winemaking, individual vineyard growers maintain their own autonomy in the vineyard, while benefiting from shared facilities, including equipment, and sharing knowledge.

The co-operative has experienced steady growth over the years, growing to more than 120 associate growers to become Chianti Classico's largest family today. Castelli del Grevepesa combines modern and innovative winemaking techniques and technologies with tradition to craft high-quality wines representative of the Chianti Classico wine region, while also upholding the principles of sustainability and environmental stewardship to preserve the land for future generations. Today, Castelli del Grevepesa has great passion and love for their land with a goal to produce wines of high quality at affordable prices.

From their Castelgreve range of wines, which reflect the winery's dedication to crafting high-quality wines that represent the essence of the Chianti Classico region, this red wine is composed of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot primarily from the San Casciano area where the vineyards are planted on ancient alluvial deposits. The grapes were hand-harvested with individual bunch selection and upon arriving at the winery, they were fermented at a controlled temperature of 28°C, with 10 days of skin maceration. The wine underwent ageing for 12 months in Slavonian oak barrels, followed by bottle refining for at least 1 month prior to release.

While vintages in Chianti Classico are difficult to generalize, by all accounts, the 2021 vintage is a magnificent one with consistently high quality wines across the board. The growing season began with a fast start as February was especially warmer than usual, while the warm temperatures returned to normal in March. There were some severe frosts at the beginning of April, but the summer months from June to August experienced elevated temperatures with very little rain. Overall, it was a warm vintage with large diurnal temperature shifts (i.e. daytime highs and nighttime lows) during the last month of ripening helped build colour, tannins, and retain acidity. Let's see how this 2021 Chianti Classico Annata is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CASTELGREVE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2021 - Sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#573485) (XD) - $18.95
This blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is elegantly composed with a fine mix of wood spices, black & red cherry, savoury wet earth, clove, and underbrush aromas, plus hints of cinnamon and blood orange. On the medium-full+ bodied palate it has very good concentration with lovely red & black cherries, red plum, clove, sweet wood spices, cinnamon, earthy oak, and dried herb flavours, all of which is supported by very good, juicy acidity. The fine, creamy tannins are smooth, well-structured, and integrating very nicely. Savoury earth, cocoa, and dried herb notes with a touch of mineral lingers on the long and very satisfying finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 3-5 years! Score: 90 pts

While some of the lovely wines by Castelli del Grevepesa wines are available at the LCBO, the entire range can be ordered while collecting AirMiles through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Château Clou du Pin 2021 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely follow-up to the lovely 2020 Château Clou du Pin Premium that I enjoyed just over a year ago. This red wine is coming to the LCBO next weekend as part of the August 10, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES Release Collection (which was merged with the Aug. 24th Release due to the strike) and is already available for purchase in-stores and online right now.

It is produced by Domaines Fontana, a family winery that was founded in 1950 by Huguette and Angelo Fontana. The young couple, who were in their mid-twenties, had a dream in mind and settled in the small town of Gensac in Gironde, about 15 km southeast of Saint-Émilion and 60 km east of Bordeaux. They chose Gensac because of the wealth of the land in the area where they could plant vineyards and build a cellar.

As the vineyard grew over the years, so did the Fontana family, as Huguette and Angelo had 5 children who grew up in the heart of the Estate and picked up their parent's passion for viticulture and wine. As adults, the boys of the second generation of the Fontana family joined the business and helped it grow by acquiring plots of neighbouring vines and investing in various trades that were present at the Estate. Huguette and Angelo's grandchildren, the third generation of the Fontana family, have also joined the family Estate and bring with them their modernity, a fresh gaze, dynamism, and youth, as well as a common desire to share their passion for the vine and wine.

Today, Domaines Fontana has over 300 hectares of land, most of which is situated within the commune of Gensac, but also extending over neighbouring and bordering communes. The family has worked hard to make their wines known across the globe, to try and reach as many consumers as possible. Domaines Fontana is certified HVE3 (High Environmental Value), a certificate which recognizes good environmental and health practices in the vineyard. Their main objective is to achieve the highest level of quality by combining tradition with innovative techniques to produce wines which they are proud of, as well as praised by those who taste them.

Like the previous vintage, this red wine is crafted using 100% Merlot that was grown on clay-limestone soils, on hillsides which are situated up to 120 metres above sea level. The vines have south-southwest exposure to the sun, which is ideal for ripening grapes to full maturity. Domaines Fontana practices both traditional and reasoned viticulture from pruning to vinification. The soil is enriched with only organic manure. To craft a structured and concentrated wine, only grapes from low-yielding plots are selected during harvest. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 30 days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel vats which are equipped with a thermoregulation system with micro-oxygenation that is monitored. It was aged for a minimum of 12 months in barrel.

The 2021 growing season in Bordeaux posed several challenges, including frosts, millerandage, and mildew, but with careful viticulture and hard work, some very good wines were made. Winter was mild and wetter than usual, which resulted in early budbreak. However, this meant that vulnerable buds were exposed to the damaging frosts of early April. This resulted in poor fruit set, which affected yields. May brought cool weather, which slowed vine growth, while heavy rainstorms fell from June to early-July, keeping vignerons on their toes as they tried to guard against mildew development. Fortunately, conditions were much improved in August and September with the arrival of warm and dry weather, which stopped the rot and promoted ripening. From a cooler-than-average growing season, let's see how this 2021 Bordeaux Supérieur red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU CLOU DU PIN 2021 - AC Bordeaux Supérieur, France (#28727) (XD) - $18.95
This 100% Merlot has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that delivers currant, cassis, black cherry, wood spice, black plum, sweet spices, and earthy aromas with touches of mineral adding further complexity. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has lovely, balanced aroma replays on the flavour profile. It's supported by fresh, gently tangy acidity and smooth, supple tannins with good structure. Earthy, savoury, and minerally on the long, juicy finish. Enjoyable now and over the next 5+ years. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaines Fontana can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Grand Vin de Glenelly Red 2009 (South Africa) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2020 Glenelly Glass Collection Cabernet Sauvignon on Friday night to start the long weekend, I am ending the Civic Holiday long weekend with a beautiful Shiraz-Cabernet blend from the same producer for tonight's wine review. I purchased this red wine from an LCBO VINTAGES Release in November 2015 and thought it would be appropriate to open this wine tonight, considering that my notes initial notes suggested that I should have opened it by 2021, and also because I met Nicolas Bureau, the grandson of Glenelly's founder, May de Lencquesaing, at the recent PIWOSA tasting and he suggested that I should probably open this bottle soon.

While no longer produced, this red wine used to be Glenelly Estate's signature red blend. Composed of 42% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, all the grapes were picked and sorted by hand, and then lightly crushed into stainless steel tanks. It underwent a natural fermentation and remained in contact with its skin for two to three weeks post-fermentation. The wine was then gently pressed and run into equally new, second fill, and third fill French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and aging in barrels for 18 months.

This red wine hails from the legendary 2009 vintage that was excellent across the board and considered one of South Africa's best vintages. Let's see how this 2009 Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon blend from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GRAND VIN DE GLENELLY RED 2009 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#360339) (D) - $19.95
This blend of 42% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot pours a deep tawny colour. Earthy, cigar box, and mushroomy with perfumed sandalwood, stewed plum, dark berry, and black cherry aromas rising out of the glass with medium+ to medium-high intensity. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has very good structure with a lovely savoury flavour profile of wet earth, sandalwood, cigar box, and oak spice flavours, plus some stewed and fresh blackberry, black cherry, plum notes adding complexity and interest. Acids are still quite fresh and juicy, while the well-structured, fine-grained tannins are integrating nicely. Somewhat chalky textured on the mid-palate, while the finish is long, savoury, and earthy. Still quite well-balanced, with the alcohol just starting to peak through, while the fruit has not shifted into the dried spectrum yet. Could be aged another year or two. Great buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Glenelly Estate can be purchased at the LCBO, or through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Château Beau-Site 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful Left Bank Bordeaux red wine from the Saint-Estèphe appellation that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent May 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Borie-Manoux, a wine merchant whose origins started as a wine trading company that was established in 1870 by the Borie family. Today, Borie-Manoux is a significant wine merchant in the Bordeaux wine industry with a rich history and a diverse portfolio of estates. Borie-Manoux is currently owned and managed by the Castéja family, with Philippe Castéja as President.

Château Beau-Site is one of Borie-Manoux's Bordeaux wine estates. Situated in Saint-Estèphe, it was founded in the 18th century and is one of the oldest estates in the commune. At the time of its founding, it was part of Château Morin. Its name - Beau-Site - reflects its scenic location as it overlooks the entire vineyard and has magnificent panoramic views extending towards the Gironde river. Château Beau-Site's first owner was M. de Camiran, while in the 1860s it became the property of M. Grazilhon, at which point in time the name was changed to Château Beau-Site-Grazilhon.

The term "Cru Bourgeois" is used to describe wines of great quality and value, and graced the bottles of Château Beau-Site wines for the first time, starting in 1868. A few years later, the château was upgraded to Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and continued until the 1990s. A change in ownership in the 1920s led to the château reverting to its original name, with Mme Faugeras managing the property for several decades before selling it in the 1940s to M. Legendre.

In 1955, Château Beau-Site joined the Borie family after it was acquired by Marcel Borie. Marcel worked hard to restore the château to its former glory, and as part of this restoration, all the wines were now made and aged on-site, with the vat room filled with wooden vats. Towards the end of the 1950s, Marcel took over Château Haut-Vignoble Seguin, a 5-hectare vineyard that now produces Château Beau-Site's second wine.

After Marcel Borie died in 1961, his son-in-law, Émile Castéja, took over the reins and over the ensuing decade Émile replaced the wooden vats with epoxy-coated metal vats. By the end of the 1980s, he had replaced some of the metal vats with stainless steel vats.

In 2001, Émile Castéja retired and was succeeded by his son, Philippe Castéja. Upon taking over, Philippe quickly began work on the Château by making a number of improvements, such as digging an underground passageway between the barrel cellar and the vat room to make it easier for visitors to get around. In 2005, the tasting room was set up at the entrance to the barrel cellar and offered a view over the estuary. In 2006, the vat room's interior was completely refurbished, while the Château was completely refurbished and refurnished so that it could accommodate the family of Chantal Preben-Hansen, Philippe Castéja's sister, as well as visitors.

Sustainable winemaking practices were initiated by Philippe when he took over, and developed them further from 2014 as he was able to convince the family and team that the environment was an integral part of the wines and important for consumers. Since that time, the Casteja family has continuously sought ways to increase their commitment to sustainable winemaking. With sustainability at the top of mind, traditional vineyard work is still carried out with precision to ensure the highest quality grapes. The old vines have been carefully preserved to produce distinguished and elegant wines comparable to those of its illustrious neighbour, Château Calon-Ségur. At the winery, precision winemaking is terroir-focused.

As Saint-Estèphe is part of the Médoc region and situated at the northern tip of the Haut-Médoc, on the Left Bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux, the area has been planted with vines since Roman times, and further developed by English merchants from the Middle Ages onwards. The drainage of marshland in the 17th century led to further increases in surface land area and vineyards. The Saint-Estèphe AOC was officially recognized in 1936 thanks to its diverse climate and geology. The oceanic climate is temperate, but warm enough for the vines to thrive, while the soils are composed of gravelly alluvium, limestone, and oyster marl.

As the flagship of the estate, the 2018 vintage of this elegant wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. The grapes were traditionally picked by hand and sorted on tables in the vineyard, then transferred into tipping buckets which carry the grapes back to the winery. Each plot was vinified separately, fermentation occurring over four weeks in small-capacity, temperature-controlled vats, at fairly low temperatures. Gentle extractions help preserve the fruit, while allowing the terroir to express itself. Each plot was aged in French oak barrels (approx. 40% new) for 6 months, then blended and aged a further 12 months prior to bottling on-site.

From the excellent 2018 vintage, let's see how this 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE 2018 - AC Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France (#647933) (XD) - $48.95
This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot has a rich, ripe, and brooding nose with medium-high to high intensity aromatics of dark red and black fruits, currant, cassis, and black cherry notes joined by spicy, fine wood spices, and sandalwood surrounding a core of savoury forest floor. On the dry, full-bodied bodied palate it is rich, spicy, and a touch warm with savoury earth, fine wood spice, blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, and graphite mineral flavours accented with dried herbs. Some licorice and clove spice notes appear on the mid-palate to add further interest. Acids are juicy and mouth-watering, while the refined, well-structured tannins have a gently chalky textured mouthfeel and are quite approachable at this stage. Savoury, graphite, and dried herb notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Will improve further with age and enjoy into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Borie-Manoux can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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The Tragically Hip Fully Completely Reserve Red 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a fully and completely delicious Bordeaux-varietal red blend from Niagara that returned to the LCBO last month in the April 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Stoney Ridge Estate Winery, a producer that was established in December 1986 as Stoney Ridge Cellars and was the 14th licensed winery in Canada. The name of the winery comes from its inauspicious beginnings at the Weylie farm on Ridge Road in Stoney Creek. Stoney Ridge's legacy is that it is one of Canada's fledgling wineries that helped usher in the national wine industry and its rise to world-class wine production.

With a pioneering spirit, Winemaker Jim Warren and his two business partners produced their first vintage of 500 cases of 11 different wines entirely by hand and were committed to making small amounts of the very best wine possible from Ontario grapes.

Over the next few decades, Stoney Ridge grew and expanded, and moved to its new home at the base of the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland. In 2013, Stoney Ridge was purchased by famed Canadian sports broadcaster Bob McCown and continued to evolve, eventually launching the popular Tragically Hip line of wines in partnership with the iconic Canadian rock music band - The Tragically Hip.

Today, Stoney Ridge operates in partnership with the Niagara Custom Crush Studio, Canada's only Custom Crush Winemaking Facility. Still located at the newly renovated facility in Vineland, the Studio has taken over the production of all of Stoney Ridge's wines, including the celebrity wines. Stoney Ridge remains committed to producing 100% locally-sourced, VQA wines, just as it did in 1986.

Stoney Ridge has a few lines of wines, including celebrity wines. This particular wine is from their Tragically Hip range, which consists of 4 premium wines - a rosé, a white wine, and a pair of red wines. Named after their hit album and song - Fully Completely - this red wine is composed of 54% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were grown at select vineyards across the Niagara Peninsula and mechanically harvested in late-October. The fruit arrived clean at Stoney Ridge with good flavour concentration and aromatics, with an average Brix (sugar content) of 21.5°. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were crushed and fermented in stainless steel tanks and one tonne fermenter bins, with each lot kept separate. After completing both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine was racked into new and seasoned French and American oak barrels for 18 months prior to blending.

The growing season in 2021 was impacted by chilly conditions, as well as a drastically wet fall during harvest. It is a vintage where picking decisions will play an important role and also tests the winemakers' skills in both the vineyard and the winery. Let's see how this 2021 Bordeaux-blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

THE TRAGICALLY HIP FULLY COMPLETELY RESERVE RED 2021 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#411595) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 54% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium-high intensity nose that offers enticing aromas of brambly red and dark berries, black raspberry, black cherry, and white pepper spice, plus hints of tea leaf, underbrush, and cedar wood adding further intrigue and complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate, it has delicious ripe and spicy red and black berries, dark red cherry, blackberry, and red plum flavours accented with white pepper spice, tea leaf, and underbrush notes. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, along with smooth, refined, and well-integrated tannins. Savoury and gently spicy with touches of smoke linger on the long-lasting finish. Enjoy this highly recommended with your favourite Hip song over the next 3-4 years. Score: 90+ pts

All Tragically Hip wines are currently available at the LCBO, as well as direct from the Stoney Ridge in Niagara, and through their Agent - Perigon Beverage Group.

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Piera 1899 Terre Magre (Friuli) Virtual Wine Tasting

In September, I had the pleasure of attending an exclusive virtual wine tasting via Zoom to taste the latest wines from Piera 1899's Terre Magre line of wines - a pure expression of Friuli. Leading the presentation and tasting were Anna Polon, Sales and Marketing Director, and she was joined by Gianpietro Poveglian, Oenologist at Piera 1899.

The wines of Terre Magre are produced by Piera 1899, a winery whose story begins in 1899 on a farm that was situated in the commune of Padua in northern Italy's Veneto wine region, when the first generation of the Martellozzo family entered the world of wine.

Today, the family business is led by Piera, the granddaughter of Giovanni Martellozzo. Grandfather Giovanni took his first steps in the world of wine during an important time in history, as he understood that the rise of new social classes would create demand for a different type of drink - wine. He seized the opportunity to make a wider audience appreciate wines from his territory, as well as those from other regions. Piera's operations stretched from Veneto to Friuli Venezia Giulia in the north, to Southern Italy, passing through Umbria. In the 1960s, Giovanni spent most of his time working on the countryside property located in Lison Pramaggiore, while leaving the main house in Padua to his children. Mario, one of five Martellozzo brothers, would lead the company towards the future by expanding production and taking sales beyond national borders. Mario always had a vision that his daughter, Piera, would be the future leader of the family business, and in 1992 that vision became a reality when he handed the entire company over to her.

With Piera at the helm, she aimed to distinguish the company's activities by working on the quality of the products, re-evaluating native varieties, and creating a very close bond with other territories, particularly in Triveneto. Since the 90s, the greatly overlooked native varieties of Raboso del Piave and Ribolla Gialla have been revived, while in 1998 Piera created their first line of organic wines.

In 2001, Piera 1899 acquired a company in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, a territory that was close to Piera. She decided to make this property her home and move the family business into the heart of Friuli Grave - an area known for the remarkable organoleptic characteristics of its vines which yield fragrant and aromatic wines thanks to strong seasonal and diurnal temperature variations. The ensuing adventure in Friuli began with an extensive analysis of the territory and its extraordinary biodiversity through a more complete mapping of the various winegrowing areas with the help of Gianpietro Poveglian, an Oenologist and Agronomist appointed to select the grapes for Piera's project. Open to innovation while respecting traditions, Piera would set a new course in the family's history, while becoming the face of the brand named after her - Piera 1899.

Today, while Piera 1899 is still family-owned, it is part of Gruppo Martellozzo, a group that also includes the brands Martellozzo and Blu Giovello. Gruppo Martellozzo was one of the first producers in Friuli, and it is currently made up of 26 professionals who work in synergy while forging a strong territorial identity of their wines. Interestingly, the company exports over 50% of their wines abroad, with Canada as the top export country with 45% exported to Canada.

The philosophy at Piera 1899 is based on expertise and quality, with the aim of bringing wines of territorial identity to the world. They invest in not only native varieties, but also international varieties that can aptly express the territory on which they are grown. Endowed with a deep knowledge of the terroir, Piera 1899 also has an eye towards the future. As one of the first wineries to believe in organic farming, Piera 1899 is an advocate for protecting the environment, while also being a pioneer of an approach based on sustainable agriculture.

Piera 1899 is situated within Friuli Grave DOC, a denomination within the wine region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Friuli Grave is located at the foot of the Dolomites, an area sheltered from the cold, northern winds, that also benefits from the mitigating influence of the nearby Adriatic Sea to the south, thereby creating a microclimate that is particularly suitable for vine cultivation. Historically, this area has been cultivated with vines since the Roman Era. An area of about 7,500 hectares, the Grave is characterized by a steppe of alluvial origin called the Magredi - a rocky area that offers a unique landscape thanks to the particular microclimate and porous composition of the soil, where water flows between the stones and resurfaces in springs downstream. The natural landscape is distinguished by a plain and the erosive actions of the Meduna, Cellina, and Tagliamento rivers. The waters dragged huge amounts of limestone-dolomite material that was deposited downstream, along the riverbed. The result is more evident in the northern area known as Magredi, an area where the vine has found its ideal habitat with white pebbles in the vineyards that absorb the sun's heat, protects the plant, and favours a distinct seasonal temperature variation.

The range of Terre Magre wines faithfully express the wine heritage of Friuli Grave and embody Piera's philosophy. The labels of Terre Magre wines represent the territory, with the top edge representing the Dolomites, while just below are vineyards and pebbles which are embossed on to the label, and lastly, the lines represent the Meduna and Cellina rivers. Terre Magre wines are highly recognizable, mono-varietal wines characterized by good structure, drinkability, persistent fruity and mineral notes, distinct flavour, and typical scents of the territory. The grapes of each Terre Magre wine flourish in a naturally enchanting and splendid environment in Magredi.

I tasted 6 of the 11 wines in the Terre Magre line, and my clear favourites were both Pinot Grigio wines, and Friuli's rising star - Ribolla Gialla. All the wines in the Terre Magre line are vegan-friendly and vinified and aged in stainless steel.

Thank you to Piera 1899 and Wellcom Marketing for arranging the opportunity to taste these lovely wines. While these wines aren't currently available at the LCBO, in Ontario, they can be ordered through their Agent - Andrew Peller Import Agency.

Tasting Notes:

TERRE MAGRE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2022 - DOC Friuli Colli Orientali, Italy (XD)
Elegant and fresh, the medium+ intensity nose offers attractive aromas of white floral, melon, mandarin orange, honeysuckle, and white peach with some leesy mineral notes adding a savoury component to the bouquet. It has very good weight on the dry, medium-full bodied and textured palate with lovely, floral and citrusy aroma replays plus ripe apple and pear notes, supported by fresh, succulent acidity. It has a very pleasant, fine leesy texture on the mid-palate. The melon, honeysuckle, peach, orange citrus, and leesy mineral notes all appear right through to the long, balanced, and very satisfying finish. Score: 90+ pts

TERRE MAGRE SAUVIGNON 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the nose with ripe lemon/lime citrus, sage, tropical fruits such as kiwi, guava, and passion fruit aromas, plus notes of grass and herbs. It has good weight on the medium-full bodied and ripe palate with delicious lemon/lime citrus, sage, grassy, grapefruit, and tropical fruit flavour replays flecked with ripe, honeyed fruit notes. It has a fine, leesy textured mouthfeel that is supported by gentle acidity, while leesy mineral and lime citrus notes linger on the long, flavourful finish. Score: 89 pts

TERRE MAGRE PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
Aged on its lees until spring, this has a medium to medium-high intensity nose that offers attractive aromas of orange blossom, lemon citrus, and floral notes with hints of honey suckle, lemon peel, and herbal tones. It is impressively weighted on the medium+ to medium-full bodied, and nicely textured palate. It’s dry and ripe with lightly honeyed flavours layered over citrus, orange blossom, and floral notes, plus touches of sweet herbs and leesy minerals adding complexity. Crisp acidity is fresh and juicy, while leesy mineral and lemon peel notes linger on the long, textured finish. Score: 90+ pts

TERRE MAGRE L'ALTRO PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
A limited edition bottling of approx. 6,000 bottles, this was partially fermented with skins for 10-15 days and aged on its lees for 6-7 months. Pretty, pink salmon colour. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is elegant and quite complex with pink grapefruit, leesy mineral, citrus, and floral aromas joined by hints of melon, honeysuckle, and creamed corn. On the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is impressively weighted, concentrated, and dry with spiced flavours of pink grapefruit, citrus, melon, and floral characters. It has a very nice, chalky textured mineral mouthfeel on the mid-palate, plus fresh and vibrant acidity. Lovely leesy mineral notes linger on the long, juicy, and balanced finish, with excellent length. Score: 91+ pts

TERRE MAGRE PINOT NERO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
Fresh and fruity nose delivers aromas of ripe red cherry, strawberry, and cranberry nuanced with earthy beetroot, spice, and a touch of tea leaf. The fruity notes continue on the light-to-mid-weighted palate with red fruited cran-cherry, strawberry, spice, earth flavours with herbal, mineral, and saline touches on the mid-palate. It’s supported by fresh acidity and elegant, light, fine, and dusty textured tannins. Savoury with mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Score: 89 pts

TERRE MAGRE MERLOT 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (#29821) (D) - $22.95
Unoaked, 100% Merlot with 8% appassimento style. The medium-high intensity aromatics are fragrant, open, and complex with fruit forward dark and red berries, cherry, black cherry, and currant aromas, plus some spices and dried herbs. It’s medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry palate with delicious currant, black cherry, dark berry, and cocoa flavours with hints of dark plum and savoury, earthy undertones. It has a supple mouthfeel with well-structured tannins, while the fresh acidity hides the kiss of sweetness. Cocoa and savoury earth notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 89 pts

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Château Coufran 2010 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2009 Château Coufran last year, tonight's red wine review is the latest edition and from another legendary vintage. This red wine from the Left Bank of Bordeaux arrived at the LCBO as part of the theme on Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the renowed Château Coufran, an estate situated in the Haut-Médoc appellation of Bordeaux, and has a long history going back to the 18th century. While the Château changed hands many times in its earlier years, the most notable exchanges occurred from the late 19th century, when the wine merchants families of Cabarrus and Célérier purchased the estate and invested in the Médoc wine region.

Château Coufran is currently the property of the Miailhe family. It was acquired by Louis Miailhe in 1924 and he was responsible for the current spelling of the estate - the Château was previously known as "Cousran" and "Couffran". Upon acquiring the property, Louis undertook a major redevelopment project in the vineyard, which included planting mainly Merlot - a grape which was more charming and highly appreciated at the time. The Miailhe family were wine brokers in France, dating back to the 19th century and continued to 1970, while winemaking was also in the family with Jean Miailhe, son of Louis, the winemaker at Coufran for a period of time.

Today, it is Jean's two children - Marie Cécile Vicaire and Eric Miailhe - who run the estate. Château Coufran is certified to Certified Environmentally Friendly Agriculture in Aquitaine (AREA) level 2, and High Environmental Value (HVE) level 3. In the vineyard, vegetation cover is encouraged between rows, while leaves are thinned after flowering, and bunches are thinned to allow the fruit to ripen in the best conditions possible. There is great attention to detail during the harvest period to ensure that the harvest quality is optimal, while the sorting of grapes is also nuanced based on quality, terroir, and vine age, among other things. In the winery, the grapes are vinified using traditional Bordeaux techniques, in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Work in the tanks and maceration is according to the vintage and the desired style of wine. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the blend of the first wine (i.e. their top bottle, which is this wine) is decided on after tasting and selection by their consultant oenologist, Mr Eric Boissenot. By using only a portion of their entire production to create their top wine, they ensure that the atypical grape variety blend they use at Coufran is expressed to the fullest, to produce a great wine that is ideal for aging and ranks among the best in the appellation each year. The wine is then matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, with 25% replaced with new barrels every year. The wine is blended one last time to ensure homogeneity just prior to fining and bottling. The wines are then stored on-premise, in air-conditioned rooms to optimize the ageing process, allowing them to release ready-to-drink wines after being aged in perfect conditions.

This red wine is crafted with 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend which is unique for Left Bank wines that are normally crafted primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon. Located in the village of Saint-Seurin, the property is uniquely known as the Pomerol of Médoc because of the predominance of the Merlot grape variety. Saint-Seurin is located in the canton of Pauillac, within the AOC of Haut-Médoc and borders the commune of Saint-Estephe to the south, running along the river. The average age of the vines is 45 years old, and they are planted across a single 76 -hectare block, on soil that is composed of different types of gravel. To craft this wine, the grapes are fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless steel vats, followed by ageing in tight-grain French oak barrels for 12 months, with 25% renewed each year.

While the 2009 vintage was considered legendary right from the get-go, the 2010 growing season got off to a slow start. However, things picked up in 2010 during the beautiful summer with warm and hot days from June to August, and combined with cool nights that helped preserve fresh acidity. The growing season overall in 2010 was largely cool and dry, producing small, thick-skinned berries with perfect phenolic ripeness, producing wines that were concentrated and expressive, with very fine tannins. The result was yet another legendary vintage that was markedly different from the 2009s, with the 2010s considered classical and structured. Let's see how this 2010 Bordeaux red wine is testing tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU COUFRAN 2010 - AC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#325555) (XD) - $43.95
From vines averaging 45 years old, this is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The richly aromatic nose of medium-high to high intensity is fragrant, sweet spiced, and maturing with a lovely bouquet of stewed dark berries and Damson plums, dried floral and cherries, leather, and forest floor. On the full-ish bodied palate it offers maturing flavours of dark berry, red and black cherry, fine sweet spices, some dried cherry and florals, savoury forest floor, and leather. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the fine, dusty textured tannins are structured, and still a few more years away from fully resolving. Intriguing salty and leafy herb notes on the mid-palate. Complex and still evolving, with dried cherry and mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Wow! Provides immense pleasure now, and should continue to evolve nicely over the next 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines from the Château Coufran portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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La Vite Lucente 2021 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Super Tuscan that arrived at the LCBO today and is part of theme of Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tenuta Luce, a winery project that was formed in the early 1990's when Vittorio Frescobaldi met Robert Mondavi. From that meeting, a new chapter in great Tuscan wines was written, with a dream to create a wine in Montalcino (Tuscany), the land of choice for the production of excellent wines that, while acknowledging and celebrating tradition, went beyond the boundaries of tradition by treasuring the experiences of two historic wine families. The ambitious project took the name of Tenuta Luce - a name that evokes the sunlight of Montalcino. The sun is also the source of life and nourishment, while also marking the passage of the seasons and sets the pace for all agricultural activity. Sol Solis, or the radiant sun, is the inspiring symbol of Luce's brand. It is the sun that is chiseled on the main altar of the Church of Santo Spirito, in Florence, that was commissioned in the 15th century to Brunelleschi and built on land donated by the Frescobaldi family. Luce is an homage to the sun that provides warmth, energy, and life.

Tenuta Luce is located on the land of Montalcino, a land which is the origin of everything and their home, as well as a magical place where wine is life, tradition, and culture. The land of Montalcino is perched on an enchanting hill that retains is medieval charm, while the surrounding area is classically Tuscan with gentle slopes covered with vineyards, olive groves, and woods. Montalcino is also a territory with a microclimate of unparalleled value for the cultivation of grapevines.

The values at Tenuta Luce begins with wine that is the most natural expression of the territory where it is produced, while also reflecting the characteristics of the grapes from which it is obtained. The work begins with great care in tending the vines to enhance the precious harmony in the vineyard and continues all the way to the winery, where the ripe grapes are brought in and vinified in steps with great attention to detail that reflects the philosophy of the Estate. Respect is also a core value at Tenuta Luce - respect for the land, the vineyards, and the people who work there. People's intelligence and curiosity must be respected and stimulated, as this intelligence encourages and fuels continuous improvement. The beauty of nature must be preserved and nurtured, protected and nourished, as it is from this beauty that they draw inspiration to exceed and do better. As guests of this world, Tenuta Luce is driven to leave the land in a better place than how they found it for future generations. As such, the vineyards are planted only and strictly according to the suitability of each parcel, while aiming to safeguard the biodiversity of the land that makes Luce unique.

Luce's vineyards are situated on slopes to the southwest of the village of Montalcino. The heterogeneous vineyards have different exposures to the sun, a variety of soils, and altitudes ranging from 280 to 418 metres above sea level. The soils are schistose in the upper range, rich in yellow sands and sandstones in the central belt, and mixed-clayey at lower elevations. The altitude and southern exposure of the vineyards support a slow and complete ripening of the grapes to produce wines of great concentration and vigor, while the cool, breezy nights help preserve the aromatic complexity of the grapes and acidity in the wines. Merlot is an integral component of Luce's wines, as the first Merlot grapes arrived in Montalcino thanks to the Frescobaldi family.

This red wine is crafted with Merlot and Sangiovese. Both grapes were harvested in magnificent weather in September (the Merlot on September 3 and Sangiovese ten days later), and after the grapes were brought to the winery, they were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for 10 days, with maceration on the skins for 20 days. After undergoing malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in new and used barriques.

The growing season in 2021 began with a severe winter that brought little moisture, followed by a spring that started dry and mild, with above-average temperatures at times, particularly in March. While temperatures plunged to freezing at the beginning of April throughout Tuscany, Tenuta Luce's vineyards fortunately suffered no damage due to the high-elevation Sangiovese vineyards that were situated above the cold air, while the Merlot buds were still protected by their cottony sheath. Preceding the flowering stage, the first bout of heat arrived in late May. The summer months were hot and dry, while a timely rainfall in mid-July helped lower temperatures, provided relief to the vines, and created the ideal conditions for veraison. In August, there was some beneficial rainfall that lowered the heat and encouraged significant diurnal temperature variation between day and night, conditions which helped preserve aromatic crispness and ripeness in the berries. Harvest was carried out in magnificent weather with no rain. From a good-to-excellent and healthy vintage, let's see how this 2021 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA VITE LUCENTE 2021 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#747030) (XD) - $32.95
This blend of Merlot and Sangiovese has a medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to open up, offering attractive notions of rich and ripe red & black cherry, cedary wood, baking spice, and savoury wet earth aromas. It's medium-full bodied with lovely, ripe, red and black cherry, baking spice, rose floral, clove, sandalwood, and earthy flavours that are supported by fresh and juicy acidity. Rich, structured tannins are youthful and somewhat grippy with a slightly chalky texture. Earthy with mineral notes linger on the long, grippy, and well-structured finish. Having tasted several vintages of this wine, this is probably my favourite. Enjoyable now, but will reward with time in the cellar. Best over the next 7-8 years and a highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other fine wines by Tenuta Luce recently arrived at the LCBO, but can also be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages 2017 (Sonoma) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine reviews is an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sonoma County that arrived at the LCBO as part of the August LCBO VINTAGES Cellar Collection Release and is now available at several stores across Ontario. It will make a fine gift for the holidays or a nice addition to your cellar.

It is produced by Chateau St. Jean, an iconic Chateau that dates back to the 1920's, but whose story as a top wine producer began in 1973 when the three founders of the estate purchased the northern Sonoma Valley property. Their vision for the property was to create wines that captured the nuance, character, and quality of Sonoma's distinct vineyards and growing regions. The founders, Robert and Edward Merzoian, and Kenneth Sheffield, who were San Joaquin Valley table grape growers and shippers, named the winery after the only woman who was "saintly" enough to keep the three of them in line, Jean Sheffield Merzoian, sister-in-law, wife, and sister to the owners.

The Chateau was built by the Goff family, who had established their family fortune in the iron ore mines of Michigan's Upper Peninsula and Pacific Northwest lumber. They came to California in 1916 and purchased 300 acres of land in the Valley of the Moon area of Sonoma County, California. Construction of the Goff family summer home - now the Chateau - began in 1920, and white wine grapes were grown on the property. The living room of the home is now the Reserve Tasting Room in the Chateau.

After founding the winery in 1973, they had their first vintage a year later, and produced wines on the property for the first time in 1975 with Dick Arrowood as Chateau St. Jean's first winemaker. In 1980, the founders built a brand new winery in Kenwood, California, that was designed from the ground up to accommodate the numerous grape parcels and keep them separate throughout the winemaking process, ensuring that vineyard designation stayed pure. In 1999, Chateau St. Jean was acquired by Treasury Wine Estates, and a year later they opened a new Visitor Centre and Gardens, which features a statue of Jean in the main courtyard garden by the pool.

In 2021, Foley Family Wines acquired Chateau St. Jean from the Americas division of Treasury Wine Estates. A year later, they welcomed Winemaker Niki Williams, the company's fifth winemaker, while also undergoing renovations that included rebuilding the destemmer, crush pad, and presses, as well as upgrading the gardens and surrounding facilities to improve the visitor experience.

With a proud history and having set the standard for excellence in Sonoma County winemaking, Chateau St. Jean celebrates 50 years in 2023. Some of these achievements for excellence in wine include the 1996 Cinq Cépages being awarded the wine of the year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 list, while the 1999 vintage was awarded second place. In 2008, Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren was also awarded Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

This Cinq Cépages, which translates to "Five Grape Varieties", is the flagship wine of Chateau St. Jean. First introduced in 1990, it is crafted in a Bordeaux-style blend with Cabernet Sauvignon the main variety. To craft this wine, Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren, who joined Chateau St. Jean in 1980 and became Winemaker in 2003, selected the best fruit from outstanding and proven Bordeaux varietal vineyards that showcase the very best of Sonoma County. In this vintage, it is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot, with 46% of the fruit coming from Knights Valley, an area which highlights boysenberry flavours and elegant tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monte Rosso and Mountain Terraces Vineyards on Moon Mountain add structure, while Merlot from the Louvau Vineyard in Dry Creek adds lush juiciness and texture. The Malbec comes from Chateau St. Jean's Estate Vineyard in Sonoma Valley, while some fruit is also from Stuhlmuller Vineyard in Alexander Valley, which brings savoury, dried herb, and bright berry notes. After vinification, the wine was aged for 20 months in French oak (68% new). It was bottled in January 2020 and released in October.

The 2017 growing season began with abundant rainfall, followed by a mild spring that resulted in extended flowering. Warm late-summer temperatures moved harvest along quickly, while yields for the 2017 vintage were slightly lower than the previous couple of vintages. While the 2017 vintage was challenging, the wines that were produced are of excellent quality with complex flavours, concentrated colour, and finesse. Let's see how this 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sonoma is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHATEAU ST. JEAN CINQ CÉPAGES 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#710913) (XD) - $130
Blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. Rich and elegant, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers lush, complex, ripe, dark fruited, blackberry, black and red currant, fine oak spices, grilled herb, and earth aromas with touches of boysenberry and floral. It's full-bodied with ripe black and red currant, cassis, blackberry, savoury oak spice, earth, peppery spice, grilled herb flavours surrounding a savoury core. It's framed by fresh, juicy acidity and elegant, yet firmly structured, fine-grained tannins. It's a touch palate warming, but still balanced. Savoury and earthy with graphite notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Provides immense pleasure now, but will reward cellaring. Enjoy to 2035+. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines from Chateau St. Jean's large portfolio can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Cavaliere d'Oro Riserva Chianti Classico 2018 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a consistently well-made and lovely Riserva Chianti Classico that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the October 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Castello di Gabbiano (CDG), an historic castle and winery whose story began with the construction of the cellars in the year 1124 in the heart of the Chianti region in Tuscany, Italy. In that epoch, the castle belonged to the Bardi family, one of the most important banking families of Florence. In the second half of the 13th century, the family began the extension of the fortress by building perimeter walls and battlements in the typical Guelph style of the era. The castle remained in the Bardi family until the early part of the 15th century, until it was passed on to the Soderini family, one of the most politically influential families in Florence.

The Soderini family converted the turreted family house of Gabbiano in Fattoria, which was completed by the late 15th century. It was during the period of Soderini's ownership, in 1464, when the land survey was presented by Tommaso Soderini to the "Officials" of the Land Registry of the Republic of Florence, where it was noted that wine and oil were the most highly prized produce of the estate.

Over the course of a century, the Soderini family added new buildings on several occasions, as can be deduced from the stonework which revealed various phases of development, until it was converted into a large quadrilateral building, which also formed a kind of private fortalice that was anchored with four cylindrical turrets reinforcing the corners. By 1505, the Soderini family converted the castle into a structure more like the present day version, with a round tower erected at each corner of the castle, displaying French architectural influence. Unfortunately, the Soderini's were declared rebels by the powerful Medici family during a struggle in the 16th century, which led to them being banned from Florence, and the castle abandoned for a long time. However, the Soderini family was able to return to their homeland in the 17th century and gave the castle new life.

From the 19th century onwards, the families who owned the property carried out various restoration works, while fully respecting the architectural features of the castle. One such building is a neo-classical style private chapel that was built in the 19th century while under the ownership of the Del Turco family.

Today, Castello di Gabbiano is owned by the multinational alcoholic beverage company Treasury Wine Estates. Castello di Gabbiano is situated in UGA of Castellina in Chianti and has 147 hectares of vines, of which 109 hectares are DOCG Chianti Classico, with 85% of their vines planted to Sangiovese, while applying certified sustainable viticulture practices across all of their vineyards and respecting the environment. In the winery, ancient traditions are combined with innovation and modern technology. The ancient cellar of the castle, which has been in use since the 14th century, has been skilfully restored while fully respecting the original architecture.

The winemaker at Castello di Gabbiano is Federico Cerelli. He joined CDG in 2011 after gaining 10 years of experience working at prestigious Italian wineries and supervising important winemaking projects in Tuscany and the Chianti Classico wine region. Federico trusts the most traditional practices that, over time, have become established the best - while embracing modern technology. This led to the creation of the first fermentation system with a mechanized and computerized punching down system.

Named Cavaliere d’Oro, which means "The Gold Knight", this red wine is crafted with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, using only the finest grapes from their estate vineyards. The fruit parcels from the different sites were kept separate during the vinification and ageing process, providing the winemaker with an enticing range of flavours and textures to create the final, blended wine. The grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation on skins in small, stainless steel tanks, followed by a secondary natural malolactic fermentation - with half in stainless steel and the other half in natural French oak - to help round out the wine while obtaining optimal acidity and freshness. The oak ageing occurred for 10 months in 15 to 30 hectolitre casks and 225 litre barrels, with only 10% new oak, and underwent further maturation for 12 months in bottle prior to release. Let's see how this 2018 Riserva Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVALIERE D'ORO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#216309) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot has richly fragrant and spicy aromas rising out of the glass, followed by attractive and captivating notes of pure red cherry, cinnamon, sweet spices, clove, forest floor, and orange citrus with hints of wet earth. The spicy notes continue on the medium-full to full-bodied palate, joined by lovely dark red cherry, savoury oak spices, forest floor, leather, and orange citrus flavours. Some dried herbal characters appear on the juicy mid-palate, with fresh acidity, while the fine-grained tannins are impressively structured. Savoury with touches of mineral and leather linger on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy to the end of the decade! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Castello di Gabbiano is available at the LCBO, while other wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Rodney Strong Symmetry 2017 (Sonoma) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent red blend from Sonoma County that I was first introduced to back in 2017 during a very interesting Rodney Strong Blending Seminar with Winemaker Rick Sayre. The latest vintage of Symmetry arrived at the LCBO last month, as part of the August 19 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the pioneering and well-respected Rodney Strong Vineyards, the 13th winery that was established in Sonoma County in 1959. It was founded by Rodney D. Strong and has become one of Sonoma's leading wine producers.

Rodney Strong was an accomplished dancer, but transitioned to winemaking after acquiring a 159-acre vineyard in Healdsburg, Sonoma County, because he saw great potential for growing high-quality wine grapes. In 1979, as Mr. Strong stepped back from daily activities, Rick Sayre came on board as the new winemaker for Rodney Strong Vineyards. It was around this time that Tom Klein was introduced to Rodney Strong Vineyards and in 1989 he purchased the vineyards and winery because he truly loved being in the wine business.

Today, under the leadership of the Klein family, who are also 4th generation farmers in California, Rodney Strong Vineyards is flourishing with a commitment and passion to crafting premium wines. They are also committed to sustainable farming practices and environmental stewardship, and have received certifications such as certifications such as Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing and Sonoma County Sustainable. Rodney Strong produces several ranges of wines, with Symmetry part of their Reserve collection. All wines from their Reserve collection are crafted at their state-of-the-art Artisan Winery.

The philosophy behind Symmetry is that at its heart, it is an artfully blended wine that is carefully crafted using fruit from the very best hillside vineyards in Sonoma County. Part of the goal when crafting Symmetry is to capture the essence of each varietal in the blend, while striking the perfect balance between the classic Bordeaux varieties. Only the best is selected for the final blend, which makes Symmetry a unique expression for each vintage. The name Symmetry means balance, and it is their winemakers' ultimate goal to craft a rich blend that is harmonious, elegant, and intensely flavoured.

Like the wine during the blend seminar and other vintages prior and since, this red wine is typically a blend based on at least 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, with this particular vintage composed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 12% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. The fruit was grown in the Cooley (45%), Brothers (30%), and Rockway (25%) vineyards. It was crafted by Winemakers Justin Seidenfeld and Greg Morthole, using their small lot winemaking facility which they call the Artisan Cellar. They employed artisan techniques such as cluster pre-sorting, berry sorting, and extended maceration, while also using small tanks and equipment sized for the most discriminating vineyard selection process. The wine was aged in French oak barrels, 75% new, for 24 months. The facility is truly state-of-the-art and represents the Klein family's commitment to producing the finest wines.

The 2017 growing season was a complicated one and will be remembered for many years as the all-time precipitation record was set by mid-April, followed by six different heat waves as high as 43°C. The fruit was harvested between September 16th and October 13th. Let's see how this 2017 red wine from Sonoma is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RODNEY STRONG SYMMETRY 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#641142) (XD) - $74.95
Blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 12% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Richly fragrant, fresh, and spicy on the highly aromatic nose with a lovely mélange of red and black fruits, currant, cassis, grilled herbs, and savoury earth aromas with a touch of barnyard and anise adding further complexity. It's full-bodied and dry with ripe, chewy, elegant, and well-structured tannins. Lovely, rich flavours of red and black fruits, black cherry, currant, cassis, grilled herbs, oak spice, and earth flavours. A touch palate warming on the mid-palate, but still balanced, while the acids are fresh and juicy. Grilled herbs, dark fruits, and smoky earth notes linger on the long, elegant finish. Enjoy to at least the end of the decade, and perhaps a bit longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Many other fine wines by Rodney Strong are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Achaval Ferrer Quimera 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, old-vine Malbec-based blend from Argentina that arrived at the LCBO last month in the July 6th LCBO VINTAGES Cellar Collection Release and is still available for purchase on VINTAGES Shop Online.

It is produced by Achaval Ferrer, a prominent winery in Argentina that is known for producing limited quantity, high-quality wines, particularly from the Mendoza wine region. It was founded in 1998 by a group of friends, including Santiago Achával and Manuel Ferrer, who combined their surnames to form the wine company's name - Achaval Ferrer - and became well-known throughout the world in just a few short years.

As guardians of a legacy, Achaval Ferrer decided to preserve the legacy of time during a period when the old was quickly replaced by the new. The legacy is still treasured today as they keep the DNA of centennial vines intact, combining wisdom with passion, and creating wines that express the magic of the exceptional terroir they come from. Their philosophy is based on its commitment to and respect for nature, and its winemaking is based on a minimal interventionist principle from vine to wine, as well as three fundamental pillars. The first pillar is the centennial vines that are own-rooted and pre-phylloxera. The second pillar is to deliberately obtain low yields, which helps produce concentrated and complex berries. In addition to obtaining low yields, Achaval Ferrer also arranges the vines in a strategic, highly dense layout which makes the vines compete with each other, and thus forcing the roots to reach deeper into the soil, changing the structure of the grapes and producing highly concentrated berries. The third and final pillar is to produce wines with minimum intervention and maximum expression, thus respecting and preserving the terroir and its message all throughout the winegrowing and winemaking process, to obtain pure, highly expressive wines.

Quimera, or Chimera, is the name of this wine and it has two different meanings, both of which have an intimate relationship with this wine. The first is that in Greek mythology, Chimera was a beast made up of the parts of three different animals, while this wine is also made up of different varieties. The second meaning of the word is the one that best represents this wine - Chimera is an impossible search, a search for the unattainable; this is the mentality that everyone in the vineyards and winery has every year when they produce this wine. Without following any rules or tradition, the goal is to produce the best possible blend every year. Chimera is design and architecture, an intimate discovery, and a search for perfection.

Usually a Malbec-based blend, this vintage is composed of old-vine 59% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot that was grown in various vineyards across Mendoza. The Malbec was grown in the Perdriel appellation in Luján de Cuyo, on soils of alluvial origin that feature a thin sandy loam with gravel underneath, and very good drainage.The Cabernet Sauvignon was grown in Medrano (Junín) and Los Arboles (Tunuyan). In Medrano, the soil is also of alluvial origin, but has an 80 cm surface layer of silty clay on a bed of sand and eroded rock, while in Los Arboles there is a great presence of stones with rounded edges, gravel with a toothed shape and colluvion. Furthermore, the sandy loam frame soil in Los Arboles provides ideal drainage. Both the Merlot and Cabernet Franc come from Tupungato, Uco Valley, where there is very little soil depth with gravel on the surface, while also combining volcanic ash and calcareous rocks, which offers very good drainage. All of the vineyards are managed in a highly sustainable manner.

To craft this red wine, each variety underwent primary fermentation separately in small cement tanks, followed by malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels, 65% new and 35% second use. It was then aged in barrel for 12 months, and finally bottled unfined and unfiltered.

The 2019 growing season was notable for its dry weather and cool climate, resulting in highly concentrated wines with great colour and acidity. From a good-to-excellent year, let's see how this 2019 Malbec blend from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ACHAVAL FERRER QUIMERA 2019 - Mendoza, Argentina (#24752) (XD) - $53
Blend of old vine 59% Malbec, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Elegantly complex, medium-high intensity aromas of dark fruit, blackberry, violet, currant, cassis, earthy mineral, and fine oak spices. It is full-bodied and nicely concentrated with lovely ripe blackberry, currant, fine oak spice, violet, and earthy-stony mineral flavours which are supported by fresh acidity and firm, chewy, and well-structured tannins. Crisp and fresh with mineral notes lingering on the exceptionally long, dry finish. Enjoyable now and will improve to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93+ pts

Very limited quantities of one of their Malbec wines is available at the LCBO, while the rest of their outstanding portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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