Monday, February 7, 2022
Until the end of the last century, Bonarda was actually Argentina's most widely planted red varietal. Today, Bonarda is Argentina's second-most planted red wine variety with more than 44,000 acres planted, representing 15% of all red wine varietals. Bonarda was introduced to Argentina by European immigrants at the end of the 19th century and it was thought to be of Italian origin like Bonarda del Piedmont. However, in 2009 it was proven that it is actually Corbeau Noir, a European varietal originally from Savoy in the French Alps.
Over the years, the grape vines adapted to have little in common with those of Savoy and Piedmont. The varietal is now known as Bonarda Argentina and thrives in the warmer terroirs of Argentina. Sixty percent of Bonarda Argentina is cultivated in eastern Mendoza, where it is warmer and located at approximately 700 metres (2,300 feet) above sea level. Both of the wines in this post are from eastern Mendoza - one from the town of Junín, and the other from Rivadavia.
Both of these lovely wines were crafted by El Enemigo Wines, a passion project founded by Catena Zapata head winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena, who is Dr. Laura Catena's younger sister. The name El Enemigo, which means 'the enemy within', was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy", and the goal was to produce wines that would respect history while rejecting the status quo. I've enjoyed a number of excellent wines from El Enemigo over the years and the winery has gained global recognition for displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils. Many El Enemigo wines, including their single vineyard Bonardas and Chardonnay, combine old and new winemaking techniques that feature the use of concrete eggs in conjunction with 100-year-old oak foudres. The 2017 vintage across Argentina was excellent in quality, but low in yield. Let's see how this pair of Single Vineyard Bonarda wines are tasting tonight...
Tasting Notes:
EL ENEMIGO EL BARRANCO SINGLE VINEYARD BONARDA 2017 - Junín, Mendoza, Argentina (#15132) (XD) - $21.95100% Bonarda grown at 650 metres (2,132 feet) above sea level on sand and river stone soils. It was fermented using wild yeasts and aged for 12 months in 100-year-old foudre. The generous, fragrant, and elegant nose has lovely aromas of dark berry, currant, black cherry, funky earth, and plum which lead to fine stony mineral notes that fill the glass. On the medium+ bodied, slightly chewy palate it offers pleasing notes of dark berry, currant, black cherry, stony minerals, and gentle herbal spice, all supported by fresh, balanced acidity. Refined tannins have a subtle, textured grip, while on the lingering finish it has mineral, dark berry, and herbal notes, with very good length. A really fine expression of Bonarda. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts
EL ENEMIGO EL MIRADOR SINGLE VINEYARD BONARDA 2017 - Rivadavia, Mendoza, Argentina (#15120) (XD) - $21.95
This 100% Bonarda was grown 650 metres (2,132 feet) on sand and deep clay soils. It was fermented using wild yeast and aged for 12 months in 100-year-old foudre. The rich, elegant, refined, and intense nose is deep, complex and spicy with dark berries, black cherry, blackberry, stony mineral, purple fruit, and hints of chocolate. Interesting black raspberry notes emerge with time in the glass. On the medium-full bodied there is some warmth on the entry, but it has smooth, refined and nicely textured tannins that support the spicy, dark berry, black cherry, blackberry, stony mineral, and cocoa flavours. Acids are fresh and juicy. Lovely dark berry, black cherry, and stony mineral notes linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Best Bonarda I've ever tasted. Must buy! Score: 92 pts
Other lovely wines by El Enemigo, including other Bonarda wines, are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
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