El Enemigo Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is one of my favourite Chardonnays from Argentina. While the printed magazine specifies the 2020 vintage, in actuality it was the 2022 vintage that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the theme on Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 2nd.

It is produced by El Enemigo Wines, a passion project that was established in 2008 by two friends - highly-acclaimed winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena. Alejandro is a soil expert who has been with Bodega Catena Zapata as their chief winemaker for more than 20 years, while Adrianna is the younger sister of Dr. Laura Catena, as well as the youngest daughter of legend Nicolas Catena, of the famed Catena family of Argentina.

The name "El Enemigo" means "the enemy", and was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy". The credo behind the name is the struggle that most defines us in our lives is the one we wage with ourselves - we are our own worst enemy. The philosophy is to embrace the "enemy" or challenges in winemaking, confronting the difficulties and turning them into opportunities for creating exceptional wines.

Today, El Enemigo is situated among the high-altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley and has gained a reputation for producing some of Argentina's finest wines. The wines of El Enemigo are enigmatic, charismatic, and verging on iconoclastic, and in a way they reflect their maker, Alejandro, with an almost Picasso-like personality. While he consults and contributes academic research on soils and microbial composition, with El Enemigo he plays and expresses himself creatively. At the same time, the wines of El Enemigo are sensitive to historical blends and traditions as some of the grapes come from some of the oldest vineyard sites in the region.

Like the 2018 El Enemigo Chardonnay that I enjoyed last year, this vintage was also grown in the region of Gualtallary, within the Tupungato district in the northern reaches of the Uco Valley, at a high-altitude of 1,470 metres (4,822 feet) above sea level on deep-calcareous and rocky soil. It was fermented using wild yeast in 500 L French oak barrels, with 35% new barrels, followed by ageing under veil (flor yeast) for 12 months in 500 L French oak barrels.

The 2022 growing season delivered another successful harvest, although the year did have its challenges. In Mendoza, the region began with a cool, dry spring, as well as little snowfall, which resulted in less water flowing down to a region already suffering from severe water shortages. Further challenges arrived when five frosts, some severe, occurred between October and November in the Uco Valley. The white grape varieties were a big challenge due to rain that arrived at the end of spring, between December and February, and was concentrated to a few weeks. However, if the harvest was done well, good quality with fresher wines is achieved. Let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $25.95
Using wild yeast, this was fermented and aged in French oak barrels. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is ripe and appealing with pineapple, banana, citrus, caramel, toffee, butter, and leesy flor aromas. It's mid-weighted with good concentration, well-structured, sweet fruited, yet dry, with delicious banana, pineapple, lemon citrus, apple, toffee/caramel, leesy flor, and buttery flavours in a complex profile with all vying for attention. Acids are crisp and fresh, plus a touch of spice notes on the mid-palate. The long finish is dry with lingering notes of smoke and mineral. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 4-5 years. Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by El Enemigo can found at the LCBO or through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

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El Enemigo Chardonnay 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Wow. I can't believe how the time flew by. In October 2020 I recall enjoying the 2017 El Enemigo Chardonnay - a wine that was excellent upon opening, but really blossomed into something special over the course of 7 days that I had it open. For tonight's white wine review, I opened the latest vintage of this terrific wine that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend along with a pair of excellent Bonarda wines from the same producer as part the feature on wines from Argentina in the February 5th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

El Enemigo Wines is a passion project founded by Catena Zapata head winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena, Dr. Laura Catena's younger sister. The name El Enemigo, which means 'the enemy within', was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy", and the goal was to produce wines that would respect history while rejecting the status quo. El Enemigo has gained global recognition for many of their wines by displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils, while also combining old and new winemaking techniques.

Chardonnay is Argentina's third most widely planted white wine varietal with more than 14,400 acres planted and representing 16% of all white wine varieties planted in the country. Chardonnay is the queen of white grapes and produces wines of great character and personality, all of which depend on the terroir where it's grown and techniques used by the winemaker in the vineyard and cellar.

In Argentina, Chardonnay has historically been grown in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú, Mendoza, where the elevation is between 700 and 1000 metres above sea level and the climate is hot, dry, and sunny. More recently, since the early part of the 2000's, many producers have migrated their vineyards to higher areas, in the mountains, in the search for a cooler climate. For every 100 metres in elevation, the temperature drops by about 1°C. Mountain vineyard Chardonnay resides mainly in the Uco Valley, with Tupungato having the most vineyards, but the pinnacle for Argentine Chardonnay is in Gualtallary - where this wine is from. These regions offers a combination of alluvial, stony soils with high calcium content, and a cool climate, along with the orientation and layout of the vines that all contribute produce high quality wines that are Burgundian in style. Argentina's high elevation vineyards and intense sunlight allows Chardonnay to ripen fully while maintaining bright acidity.

Like the previous vintage, the grapes for this Chardonnay were grown in Gualtallary - a high-altitude region situated within Tupungato, which is at the northern reaches of the Uco Valley - at an elevation of 1,470 metres (4,822 feet) above sea level on deep-calcareous, rocky soils. The grapes were barrel-fermented using wild yeasts in 500 L French oak barrels, then aged for 9 months in French oak with veil. With near ideal growing conditions, the 2018 vintage produced excellent quality fruit and a bumper crop, resulting in excellent wines across Argentina. Let's see how this 2018 Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2018 - Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $24.95
Beautifully fragrant, elegant, refined, and complex with minerality, nut, and mealy aromas accented with ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, and a touch of honey. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is creamy and spicy with bright acidity. It is lightly honeyed with baked apple, lemon citrus, mineral, and mealy with some nutty tones on the flavour profile. Nicely textured on the mid-palate. Long, juicy, and succulent on the finish with lingering minerally and leesy notes. Gorgeous! Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other fantastic bottlings from El Enemigo Wines are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

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El Enemigo El Barranco Bonarda 2017 and El Mirador Bonarda 2017 (Argentina) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines made with Bonarda from Argentina that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the February 5 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Until the end of the last century, Bonarda was actually Argentina's most widely planted red varietal. Today, Bonarda is Argentina's second-most planted red wine variety with more than 44,000 acres planted, representing 15% of all red wine varietals. Bonarda was introduced to Argentina by European immigrants at the end of the 19th century and it was thought to be of Italian origin like Bonarda del Piedmont. However, in 2009 it was proven that it is actually Corbeau Noir, a European varietal originally from Savoy in the French Alps.

Over the years, the grape vines adapted to have little in common with those of Savoy and Piedmont. The varietal is now known as Bonarda Argentina and thrives in the warmer terroirs of Argentina. Sixty percent of Bonarda Argentina is cultivated in eastern Mendoza, where it is warmer and located at approximately 700 metres (2,300 feet) above sea level. Both of the wines in this post are from eastern Mendoza - one from the town of Junín, and the other from Rivadavia.

Both of these lovely wines were crafted by El Enemigo Wines, a passion project founded by Catena Zapata head winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena, who is Dr. Laura Catena's younger sister. The name El Enemigo, which means 'the enemy within', was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy", and the goal was to produce wines that would respect history while rejecting the status quo. I've enjoyed a number of excellent wines from El Enemigo over the years and the winery has gained global recognition for displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils. Many El Enemigo wines, including their single vineyard Bonardas and Chardonnay, combine old and new winemaking techniques that feature the use of concrete eggs in conjunction with 100-year-old oak foudres. The 2017 vintage across Argentina was excellent in quality, but low in yield. Let's see how this pair of Single Vineyard Bonarda wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

EL ENEMIGO EL BARRANCO SINGLE VINEYARD BONARDA 2017 - Junín, Mendoza, Argentina (#15132) (XD) - $21.95
100% Bonarda grown at 650 metres (2,132 feet) above sea level on sand and river stone soils. It was fermented using wild yeasts and aged for 12 months in 100-year-old foudre. The generous, fragrant, and elegant nose has lovely aromas of dark berry, currant, black cherry, funky earth, and plum which lead to fine stony mineral notes that fill the glass. On the medium+ bodied, slightly chewy palate it offers pleasing notes of dark berry, currant, black cherry, stony minerals, and gentle herbal spice, all supported by fresh, balanced acidity. Refined tannins have a subtle, textured grip, while on the lingering finish it has mineral, dark berry, and herbal notes, with very good length. A really fine expression of Bonarda. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

EL ENEMIGO EL MIRADOR SINGLE VINEYARD BONARDA 2017 - Rivadavia, Mendoza, Argentina (#15120) (XD) - $21.95
This 100% Bonarda was grown 650 metres (2,132 feet) on sand and deep clay soils. It was fermented using wild yeast and aged for 12 months in 100-year-old foudre. The rich, elegant, refined, and intense nose is deep, complex and spicy with dark berries, black cherry, blackberry, stony mineral, purple fruit, and hints of chocolate. Interesting black raspberry notes emerge with time in the glass. On the medium-full bodied there is some warmth on the entry, but it has smooth, refined and nicely textured tannins that support the spicy, dark berry, black cherry, blackberry, stony mineral, and cocoa flavours. Acids are fresh and juicy. Lovely dark berry, black cherry, and stony mineral notes linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Best Bonarda I've ever tasted. Must buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by El Enemigo, including other Bonarda wines, are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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El Enemigo Syrah/Viognier 2017 (Argentina) - Wine Review

During Thanksgiving Day long weekend in 2020, I enjoyed a pair of lovely wines from El Enemigo. Surprisingly, a full year later and almost to the day, I am once again enjoying a fine wine from Argentina's El Enemigo with tonight's red wine review - a lovely Syrah/Viognier blend which newly arrived across Ontario last weekend as part of the October 2nd LCBO VINTAGES Release.

El Enemigo Wines was co-created in 2010 by Winemaker Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena. Their philosophy since the beginning is that the land precedes us. The grapes grow and ripen in its care and Alejandro and Adrianna do their part by lending a helping hand while the fruit and terroir do their art. El Enemigo was born out of a desire to carve their own path as they thrive in the thrill of experimentation and delight in the new and unconventional. Alejandro and Adrianna have a shared obsession of terroir and with bottle their aim to create wines that reflect the freshness and character of each vineyard and offer a put expression of their terroir.

This red wine is a blend of two grapes not widely grown in Argentina - Syrah and Viognier. Historically, Syrah was used in the production of blends in Argentina. However, it's popularity has risen over the last decade to become the 4th most widely cultivated red varietal in the country and represents 10% of all red grape varietals. In cooler regions like the Uco Valley - where this wine is from, Syrah produces well-structured wines suitable for ageing. Viognier was introduced in Argentina in 1993 and has been gradually unveiled to become more interesting over time. Today, Viognier is the 8th most cultivated white wine varietal, representing just 2% of all white wine varietals.

Grown in the high altitude Gualtallary GI in Tupungato, within the Mendoza region, this red wine is a co-fermented blend of 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier. The Syrah was grown at 1,470 metres (4,822 feet) above sea level on sandy soil, while the Viognier was grown at 1,400 metres (4,593 feet) above sea level on deep-calcareous and rocky soils. It was fermented using wild yeast and aged for 7 months in 100-year-old foudre. As we have seen in other parts of the world, Syrah and Viognier often make good partners, let's see how this Argentinean Syrah-Viognier blend tastes tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO SYRAH/VIOGNIER 2017 - Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#19390) (XD) - $24.95
A blend of 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier, this has elegant, refined, and complex aromas of dark fruit, blackberry, black pepper spice, violet, and meaty with savoury undertones and floral touches rising out of the glass. It's medium+ bodied with lovely ripe blackberry, black pepper spice, meaty, violet, and floral notes on the flavour profile. Fine stony mineral notes arrive on the mid-palate, and it's all supported by fresh, balanced acidity and refined, nicely textured, and plush tannins. Savoury with stony minerals, cocoa, blackberry, and florals linger on the long, very satisfying finish. For Syrah wine lovers. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

You can find other lovely wines from El Enemigo through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

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El Enemigo Chardonnay 2017 and Bonarda 2016 (Argentina) - Wine Reviews

To cap off a relaxing Thanksgiving Day long weekend, tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely Wines of Argentina by El Enemigo. Both of these delicious wines arrived in LCBO VINTAGES in July, and while there are still a few bottles available for purchase across Ontario, you may also be able to find these wines aplenty via their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

Winemaker Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena (daughter of Nicolás Catena) created Bodega Aleanna (El Enemigo Wines) in 2008 and it appears as though the name "Aleanna" is a combination of their first names. The name El Enemigo translates to enemy. The wines of El Enemigo are a tribute to internal battles, an enemy, if you will, that make us who we are, and are brought to fruition by Alejandro and Adrianna by trying to capture the era when European immigrants first settled in Argentina and sought to make fine wines as good (or better) than those of their old homeland.

El Enemigo Wines are produced in the southern foothills of Maipu, Mendoza. The have a number of vineyards across Mendoza, a region known for its high-altitude vineyards in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. Alejandro is a soil expert, holding a Master's Degree in both winemaking and irrigation management, and has been the Winemaking Director at Bodega Catena Zapata since 2007. His strong scientific background led to important developments in both vineyard management and winemaking.

Chardonnay is the 2nd most widely planted white varietal in Argentina, however, it makes up just less than 3% of the total cultivated area in the country. This Chardonnay is from Mendoza, where more than 80% of all Chardonnay plantings are located. Moreover, Chardonnay is the most widely planted white wine varietal in Mendoza. And within the Tupungato GI, which is located in the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Chardonnay is considered to be one of the main grape varietals of the regions. Chardonnay is highly appreciated in Mendoza due to its ability to ripen well in the region and produce a wide range of elegant wines, such as this example from the high-altitude area of Gualtallary.

Until fairly recently, Bonarda was the most widely planted grape in Argentina. It was brought to Argentina by immigrants in the late 19th century. Today, it is the second-most cultivated varietal in Argentina, behind only Malbec. Bonarda is a thick-skinned, very late-ripening grape that is usually one of the last grapes to be harvested. It has much success in warmer climates, thus 60% of all Bonarda in Argentina is grown in the East of Mendoza, such as Rivadavia, where the climate is warmer at about 700 metres above sea level.

The last grape worth a mention in this post is Cabernet Franc, as it makes up 15% of the 2016 El Enemigo Bonarda. Cabernet Franc is not commonly grown in Argentina, making up just 1% of all red varietals cultivated in the country, placing it about 8th on the list. It is relatively new to Argentina as it was first planted in the 1990's and has adapted well to the high-altitude vineyards of Mendoza. Today, nearly 80% of all Cabernet Franc in the country is grown in Mendoza. Since there isn't much Cabernet Grown, it is mostly used in blends to give strength, although the grape does excel in quality on its own.

A naturally restless person, Alejandro strives to channel his creative energy into pushing
the limits of conventional viticultural and winemaking wisdom. As Alejandro says, "Winemaking is a way of life that revolves around contact with nature and a true love for the work. To produce wines from a place you need to breathe the same air as the vine, suffer the cold and the heat, and feel a sense of belonging to that place". Let's discover the wines of El Enemigo...

Tasting Notes:

EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2017 - Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $23.95
100% Chardonnay grown between 1,400 to 1,500 metres above sea level on calcareous, rocky soils. It was barrel-fermented using wild yeasts and spent 9 months in French oak with veil. The elegant, medium+ intensity nose offers ripe lemon citrus and apple with touches of banana, tropical fruit, and vanilla. It is almost full bodied on the creamy palate with lovely ripe lemon citrus, and apple, and banana replays joined by leesy and nutty tones. Notes of pink bubblegum add further interest on the slightly hot mid-palate that is juicy with mouth-watering acidity. Apple and lemon with a leesy-nutty aftertaste on the long finish. LCBO VINTAGES July 11, 2020 Wine of the Month. Score: 90 pts

EL ENEMIGO BONARDA 2016 - Mendoza, Argentina (#15120) (XD) - $24.95
An interesting blend of 85% Bonarda from El Mirador (Rivadavia) grown at 650 metres on sandy soils, and 15% Cabernet Franc from Gualtallary (Uco Valley) at high-altitude of 1,470 metres above sea level on calcareous, rocky soils. It was fermented using wild yeast and then aged for 15 months in 100 year old foudre. This has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose of dark berry, blackberry, plum, spices, and minty herb with savoury/meaty undertones and a fine streak of stony minerality. It is full-bodied on the ripe palate with dark berry, chocolatey oak, and spice flavours supported by fine, integrated tannins and balanced acidity. Some chalkiness on the mid-palate, while the long, satisfying finish has plummy, dark berry, and mineral notes. Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES July 25, 2020. Score: 90 pts

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