Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and organic Super Tuscan that is predominantly Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles surprisingly still available for purchase!

It is produced by Tenuta Sette Ponti, a highly-regarded, family-owned winery situated in Tuscany, between the cities of Florence and Arezzo, Italy. The history of the property begins in 1935, when Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta planted the first vineyards on the property to celebrate having taken over the Ethiopian Empire. It was called "Vigna dell'Impero", or Vineyard of the Empire, and is home to an ancient clone of Sangiovese that is the only one of its kind.

In the 1950s, architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri acquired the first 55 hectares of land directly from Princesses Margherita and Maria Cristina of Savoy-Aosta, daughters of Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta, and dedicated himself to the production of winegrowing and olive oil. The grapes were sold to producers until the 1990s, when Antonio Moretti Cuseri, son of Alberto, who had a passion for wine since he was a young boy, took over the family business in 1997.

Antonio worked alongside the best viticulturists and oenologists to evaluate the suitability of the land for the production of quality wines, although the area was already declared one of the most suitable areas for wine production in Tuscany in 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. By 1998, Antonio stopped selling his grapes to other producers and established Tenuta Sette Ponti, or Seven Bridges, in tribute to the seven bridges that extend over the Arno River on the road from Florence to Arezzo. That same year, he made his first wine - Crognolo.

In 2018, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family, Amedeo, son of Antonio, joined the family business to continue to represent the company's strong values and bring a fresh and new vision. The philosophy at Tenuta Sette Ponti is based on quality, research, long-lasting knowledge, age-old customs, respect for the land and its balance, while also keeping pace with modern agricultural and oenological practices. Tenuta Sette Ponti has an incredible love for vines and is known for making exceedingly high quality, organic wines in line with Tuscan traditions.

The Crognolo is named after a wild plant Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) that grows in abundance on the estate. This red wine was first made in 1998 and strongly represents the vision of its creator, with an eye to the valorization of the territory and to innovation achieved through traditions that evolve. The base of this wine is Sangiovese from clones from the oldest and historically significant Vigna dell'Impero vineyard. This historic varietal clone was grafted in vineyards with stony soils rich in marl. The majority of the Sangiovese used to craft Crognolo is made up of only the best Sangiovese grapes from these vines.

Similarly to the 2018 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is predominantly Sangiovese (95%) with a splash of Merlot completing the blend. The southern-facing vineyard is planted at 250 metres above sea level. The vines are 30+ years old and trained using the spurred cordon system. After undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12–14 months in French oak barriques. It was then matured for 6 months in bottle prior to release.

While the 2022 growing season in Tuscany began with a cool and unusually dry winter, which transitioned into a warm spring, the vintage was marked by the scorching hot summer and extreme drought. The conditions in summer were so dry that some producers chose to irrigate to help protect their younger vines. However, vineyards situated near forests or up hills were able to keep cool, with welcoming rain finally arriving at the end of July. Further rainfall at the end of August to the beginning of September proved to be the vintage's saving grace. Although the drought conditions unsurprisingly reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high quality. From a good vintage with slightly higher-than-usual alcohol levels, let's see how this 2022 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2022 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. A touch reductive off the top, followed by a medium-high intensity nose of ripe red cherry aromas mingling with clove, savoury oak, and earthy minerals, plus hints of sweet spices. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has lovely red & black cherry, clove, oak spice, sweet spice, and earthy mineral replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the medium-firm tannins are well-structured with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Touch spicy with the alcohol peeking through ever so slightly on the mid-palate, while the exceptionally long finish is dry, savoury, and minerally. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

Tenuta Sette Ponti's iconic Oreno is available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range of wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.