Argentina: A Mini-Tasting Trip - August 22, 2020 VINTAGES Release Wine Reviews

After exploring and enjoying some fabulous Wines of Argentina a couple of weeks ago, tonight's wine reviews are another look at three Argentine wines coming to LCBO VINTAGES on August 22 and one that is in stores now.

Grapes are grown in Argentina stretching 3,800 km from north to south. with vineyards making quality wines covering nearly 500,000 acres. The diversity of terroirs where the vines are grown imprint distinctive characters and profiles of each variety.

Torrontés is the most cultivated white wine varietal in Argentina with 5% of the total cultivated area within the country devoted to the grape. Torrontés is only found in Argentina and there are three variants - Mendocino, Sanjuanino, and Riojano. Of the three variants, Riojano is the most cultivated and expresses the best qualities for the production of fine wines, especially those found in Cafayate Valley, Salta. Torrontés is Argentina's signature white wine and winemaker Susana Balbo is known as the "Queen of Torrontés" for her role in transforming Torrontés from an unknown blending grape into Argentina’s star white varietal.

Pink-skinned varieties - primarily the indigenous Cereza and Criolla Grande - currently make up 24% of all vines cultivated in Argentina. However, in the not-too-long-ago past, these varietals were actually the most widely planted in the country until they were supplanted by Malbec in more recent years. While I don't think I have ever seen (or tasted) wines made with these indigenous grapes, Pinot Gris also falls into the pink-skinned category and is included as part of the blend that makes up the Luigi Bosca Rosé.

Malbec is far and away the most widely planted varietal in Argentina, claiming top spot only in 2011, with 22% of the country's vine acreage devoted to the grape. It is Argentina's flagship red wine grape and many of the country's top wines are made using this varietal. An astounding 85% of the Malbec planted in Argentina is within Mendoza, while in second place is San Juan (neighbouring north of Mendoza) with 6%. In third place is Salta, in the north of Argentina, with just over 3%. These three region combine to produce 94% of the country's Malbec.

The Malbec reviewed below is one of my favourite wallet-friendly Malbec wines - and there are many - as Argentina is widely known for offering great value for the quality of its wines. This particular Malbec is from Tunuyán in the Uco Valley, nestled beside the cordillera of the Andes in higher altitude, cooler, and southern area of Mendoza that is characterized by the crossing of the Las Tunas and Tunuyán rivers. The vineyards in Uco Valley range in altitude from 900 to 2,200 metres above sea level (masl), which are the highest in Mendoza and among the highest in the world. Tunuyán was first settled in the 17th century, but only began planting vines in 1995. As the vines matured, it was realized beginning in 2010 that the high altitude vines in Tunuyán create a different wine style. This led to further research to understand the terroir of the area, and eventually the discovery of exciting micro-regions within Tunuyán.

The last wine in this post comes from the Paraje Altamira GI (Geographical Indication), an area located to the south of Uco Valley in San Carlos, right next to La Consulta. The area, which was originally called Altamira, was known for producing excellent grapes for many years - it was first planted in 1900. It produces wines of unique colour and tannic concentration, flavour and freshness. Paraje Altamira GI is placed at an altitude of 1,000 to 1,200 masl and officially became a GI in 2013 and now consists of an area nearly 10,000 ha, of which nearly 3,000 ha are planted to vine. One of the most important aspects of Paraje Altamira GI is that it was the first appellation in Argentina delineated by the concept of terroir - instead of by political boundaries - paving the way for future terroir-based GIs. The end result are unique, high-quality, and delicious wines with a sense of place.

Tasting Notes:

SUSANA BALBO CRIOS TORRONTÉS 2019 - Argentina (#1834) (XD) - $14.95 $12.95 until Sept. 13.
Torrontés grapes from Cafayate (Salta) and Uco Valley (Mendoza) grown at an average of 1,700 masl. All of the fruit was hand-harvested and spent 3 months on lees. Screw cap. Fresh and highly aromatic with floral, green grassy-herbal, lemon citrus, and grapefruit notes. The medium-bodied, slightly creamy palate has crunchy, tart citrus fruit flavours plus some herbs and floral. Acids are well-balanced and juicy. Somewhat chalky mineral textured and saline on the mid-palate, followed by mineral and lime citrus notes on the finish, with very good length. VINTAGES Essentials listing and available year-round. Agent: Profile Wine Group. Score: 88 pts

LUIGI BOSCA A ROSÉ IS A ROSÉ IS A ROSÉ 2019 - Mendoza, Argentina (#553032) (XD) - $18.95
A blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir from grapes grown in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú at an altitude of 780 metres. An interesting caramel and honey nose surrounds notes of citrus and grapefruit. It's quite full and structured in the mouth with honeyed, floral, grapefruit, and tangy citrus flavours in a dry profile. Juicy acids follow through to the honey and floral finish. A big, dry rosé with very good length. Agent: FWM Canada. Score: 88 pts

SALENTEIN RESERVE MALBEC 2018 - Tunuyán, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#640854) (XD) - $17.95
100% estate grown Malbec from shallow, alluvial, and pebbly soils, with 70% coming from the El Oasis estate (1,050+ masl) and 30% from the La Pampa estate (1,250+ masl). The clean, medium-high intensity nose offers smoky minerality, dark berry, spice, and plum with whiffs of dried herb. It's mid-weighted on the fresh, juicy palate with very good acidity and flavours of dark berry, blackberry, smoky mineral, and spice with touches of violet. Tannins are smooth and refined. Dark berry and mineral with touches of chocolate linger on the long, juicy finish. Agent: Azureau Wines & Spirits. Score: 89 pts

ZAHA EL CORTE 2016 - Toko Vineyard, Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina (#629972) (XD) - $24.95
Zaha means "Heart" in the native Huarpe language of Mendoza. The Toko (stone) vineyard has diverse soils - sandy soils, rocky limestone rich soils with abundant white surface stones, and shallow silty soils mixed with gravel. Co-fermented blend of 78% Malbec and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh, spicy, scorched earth, and stony mineral notes jump out of the glass followed by some dark spices, herbs, and dark berry. The refined, medium-full bodied palate has smooth, structured, nicely textured and slightly chalky tannins. It's very minerally on the flavour profile with spice, dried herb, plum, and dark berry tones. Acids are fresh and mouth-watering. It's well-balanced throughout with mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy, and spicy finish. Very distinctive and highly recommended buy. Agent: Noble Estates Wine & Spirits. Score: 91+ pts