Catena Appellation Tupungato Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, high-altitude Chardonnay from Tupungato in Argentina that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the September 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Catena Zapata, one of Argentina's most prestigious and renowned winemaking families. A pioneer in Argentine winemaking, the Catena family also has a long history of viticulture and winemaking that goes back over a century.

Bodega Catena Zapata was established in 1902 by Nicola Catena when he planted his first Malbec vineyard in Mendoza. At the time, Malbec was used primarily as a blending grape, but Nicola suspected that it would find its hidden splendour in the Argentine Andes. His eldest son, Domingo, inherited his father's dream and took the family business to another level, becoming one of Mendoza's largest vineyard holders.

In the 1960s, Nicolás Catena Zapata, Domingo's son and a recent PhD graduate, took over the family winery after years of turmoil due to a downturn in the Argentine economy and soaring inflation rates. The name Zapata comes from Nicolás' paternal grandmother's ancestors, who were a traditional landowning family dating back to colonial times, and by Argentine custom, Zapata follows Catena in Nicolás's full name. In the early 1980s, Nicolás got the opportunity to become a visiting scholar of economics at the University of California, on the world-renowned campus at Berkeley. During this period, California decided to challenge France by creating Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay wines that could rival the best French wines. This provided Nicolás and his wife, Elena, with inspiration, so that when he returned to Mendoza, he sold his bulk wine table-wine producing company and focused on producing fine wine. In 1992, the Catena family settled in Gualtallary Alto - the highest and westernmost spot in Tupungato, at 5,000 feet above sea level, an area that is cool, but well-protected from frost by the nearby mountains. The vineyard, which is named after his youngest daughter - Adrianna - has a slight slope and a small hill.

Today, Bodega Catena Zapata is led by Dr. Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolás, and the 4th generation of the family, along with talented Winemaker Alejandro Vigil. Catena Zapata is known for being one of the first Argentine wineries to introduce modern viticultural and winemaking techniques to the country, as well as for its commitment to innovation, quality, and sustainability. Catena wines are produced from six historic family estate vineyards and each of these vineyards is divided into parcels according to their soil composition, with each parcel farmed individually. Nearly all of Catena's vineyards are farmed sustainably and organically, focusing on lower yields and biodiversity.

Like the 2019 Catena Appellation Tupungato Chardonnay I enjoyed just over three years ago, this white wine is crafted using Chardonnay that was grown in the high-altitude Tupungato sub-region of northern Uco Valley. Over two decades ago, Nicolás Catena Zapata selected the Tupungato appellation to plant the family's Chardonnay vineyards. Situated between 4,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level in the foothills of the Andes mountains, the Tupungato appellation has pebble-covered soils and extreme cool nights. Catena's Tupungato Vineyard is located at about 1,450 metres (4,750 feet) above sea level and has soil of alluvial origin, with gravel and limestone, rounded rocks at the bottom, and sandy loam. To vinify this wine, the grapes undergo cold settling for 8-24 hours at 5ºC (41ºF), followed by a 25 to 45 day fermentation. After fermentation, the wine spends 4 to 10 months in contact with its fine lees in 100% French oak, 35% new.

The 2022 growing season at Catena Zapata was exceptional, producing wines with optimal acidity, great concentration and ripeness of polyphenols, and just-right alcohol levels. While the growing season was like a roller-coaster year with two big frosts, a shorter harvest period, and unpredictable weather patterns, the team at Catena persevered with great dedication and endurance while using their deep knowledge of every region and vineyard. Winter was milder than usual, while glacial water played an important role because spring and summer were especially dry with rain 15-40% less than usual in most areas. Spring frosts were remedied by lighting anti-frost cans. Yields were down 10-20% by harvest time, while cooler than usual autumn temperatures allowed the grapes to ripen slowly and fully. From a challenging vintage, let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CATENA APPELLATION TUPUNGATO CHARDONNAY 2022 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#10964) (XD) - $19.95
The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers bright lemon citrus and ripe apple-pear aromas nuanced with vanilla, earthy mineral, and hints of butterscotch and tropical fruit notes. On the rich, dry, medium-full bodied palate it has delicious lemon citrus, apple-pear, vanilla, and mineral replays, plus some spice flavours. It's well-structured with tight and juicy acidity. Citrus and apple notes taper to savoury minerals on the long, crisp finish. Has room to develop further and should drink well over the next 5 years. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Many other fine wines by Catena Zapata can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.