Kew Tradition Sparkling 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

To start off my weekend, tonight's wine review is this beautiful, Pinot-based vintage sparkling wine from Niagara that was crafted in the traditional method. It arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 25th.

It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery situated in the heart of Niagara on a 160-year-old estate, in Beamsville, Ontario. The Kew homestead was built by William Kew and used by the family to successfully produce carriages. Descendants of the Kew family lived on the property until the late-1960s until it was purchased by Dieter Gutler and his wife Ingrid and began a new chapter.

In 1975, Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. While Mr. Weis was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it, he would go on to become a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region as most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

After the passing of Ingrid in 2021, the historical property Kew Vineyards and its 80+ acres of vineyards were acquired by Arterra Wines Canada in 2023. Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures. The philosophy at Kew is based on small-batch winemaking and that wine is the ultimate expression of passion. At Kew, there is passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life.

The winemaker at Kew Vineyards is Phillip Brown, who grew up in the agricultural community of Campbellville, Ontario, within the Niagara Escarpment. Phillip's father's passion for wine and extensive cellar nurtured his curiosity and desire to understand more about the world of wine. Phillip joined Niagara College’s Winery and Viticulture Technician program and gained experience at wineries in Ontario before moving to New Zealand in 2015 to work at a large-scale winery. Upon his return to Arterra, Phillip helped revive the Le Clos Jordanne project in 2017 and has been part of the Arterra winemaking team ever since. In early 2024, Phillip officially became the winemaker at Kew Vineyards.

As one of Niagara's sparkling wine specialists, Kew Vineyards produces seven unique, traditional method sparkling wines. Some of these bubblies are made using one varietal, while others are blends. Named "Tradition", this particular vintage sparkling wine is crafted as a blended wine, which is a true balancing act as winemakers must not only incorporate all the positive traits of each varietal, but also minimize the impact of their negative characteristics from one vintage to the next. This balancing act has been employed by Champagne producers for centuries as they balance the roles of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier.

This sparkling wine is crafted using a fairly traditional blend of 49% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, and 22% Pinot Meunier, while also incorporating a unique twist with 6% Pinot Blanc. All the grapes were grown at the Estate Vineyard in the Beamsville Bench appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The blend of the three traditional varietals results in a wine with gorgeous structure and depth, along with elegance and complexity that is unparalleled by any single varietal sparkling wine. In the traditional method, it underwent primary fermentation in stainless steel, while secondary fermentation took place in bottle. The wine was aged on its lees for 4 years and was released to the market in February 2026.

In 2021, the growing season began with above-average temperatures during winter, followed by a warmer spring. In May, conditions were dry with optimal temperatures, just in time for bud break. During the summer months, there were very high temperatures with minimal rain, which forced producers to manage drought. Conditions were looking exceptional heading into and throughout August. However, rain during harvest in September was problematic as the increased levels of moisture brought along with it elevated levels of rot, disease, and swelling of the grapes. While this is not a good vintage for late-ripening varieties, it is an incredible vintage for sparkling wines and early-ripening varieties. Let's see how this 2021 traditional method sparkling from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KEW TRADITION SPARKLING 2021 - Traditional Method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#491092) (XD) - $32.95
This lovely sparkling wine is a blend of 49% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, and 6% Pinot Blanc. Elegant, medium-high intensity nose features toasty, brioche, lemon citrus, apple, and pastry aromas nuanced with autolytic characters. The mid-weighted palate is dry with a lovely, finely elegant bead of persistent bubbles, along with delicious flavours of apple, lemon citrus, toasty, brioche, and autolytic notes. Acids are crisp and fresh. Brioche and leesy mineral notes come to the fore on the long, crisp, and gently chalky textured finish. Will be an elegant accompaniment to Mother's Day brunch and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Several lovely wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, as well as your local Wine Rack, while the full range can be ordered directly from winery in Niagara and through Arterra Wines Canada.