Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties - Carricante & Nerello Mascalese

I had the pleasure of attending the fifth and final masterclass on "Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties" last Thursday evening. In this class, we ventured to the island of Sicily to discover Etna wines made with the indigenous varietals Carricante and Nerello Mascalese.

The wines from Mount Etna have garnered much international praise and recognition in recent years. Etna wines are recognized not only for their high quality, but also as one of the most important and fascinating winegrowing regions in Italy, and quite possibly the world.

Unlike previous masterclasses, joining us live from Etna (it was midnight over there!) for this masterclass were the producers of the wines we tasted. Ciro Biondi and his wife Stephanie from Azienda Agricola Biondi, and Alberto Graci of Azienda Agricola Graci were live on the Zoom call and told us a bit about their wines, philosophy, and about winegrowing on Etna.

The majestic Mount Etna is located in northeastern Sicily, near the city of Catania. Mount Etna is the highest and largest active volcano in Europe. In addition to being one of the world's biggest, Mount Etna is also considered the oldest volcano in the world and has been continuously growing for about 500,000 years, soaring to a height of 3,300 metres (10,800 feet) today with a base that spans 45 kilometres in diameter.

Although there are several wine regions on the island, we are only exploring the unique wines from the Etna DOC in this class. Established in 1968, the Etna DOC was the first DOC in Sicily. Today, there are 1,100 hectares of vines planted within the DOC, with much of it planted in terraced vineyards on steep slopes. The principal white wine varietal is Carricante, while the main red wine varietal is Nerello Mascalese. 55% of wines produced in the DOC are red, 31% are white wines, and the balance made up of Rosato and Spumante (i.e. sparkling wines).

Located just off the coast of Africa, Sicily and Etna experience long and hot African summers. However, because of the height of Mt. Etna, diurnal temperature variation between day and night in the vineyard can swing by as much as 30°C. Winegrowing on Etna occurs in a three-quarter ring from the northern end, around to the east, and down to the south. The eastern side of Etna receives cooling sea breezes from the Ionian sea. As a result of these unique climatic conditions, plus the rich volcanic soils that are constantly regenerated with with each volcanic eruption, there are many different volcanic terroirs which result in unique wines depending on where the grapes are grown. Much like the Cru system in Bordeaux or Burgundy, the growers on Etna have developed the Contrade system which names each of the unique plots of land. In all, there are currently 133 Contrade (i.e. named vineyards) on Etna and you will see its name on the label if it is a wine crafted using grapes from a specific Contrade.

Included along with my tasting kit was an antipasto platter with Grana Padano DOP and Pecorino Calabrese cheeses, as well as Caponata - a Sicilian dish consisting of eggplant seasoned with olive oil, tomato paste, celery, olives, capers, and pine nuts - that was made in-house at Spaccio, Terroni's central kitchen. There was also some Taralli with fennel adding a Sicilian twist to this toroidal Italian snack food.

Thank you to the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario Canada (ICCO Canada) for putting on an excellent series of True Italian Taste masterclasses this year, and to Cavinona for presenting the wines. For a limited time, you can use the special discount code ICCOETNA for 10% off any case purchase on Cavinona.com. I look forward to seeing what ICCO Canada has planned for 2022.

@trueitaliantaste #ExtraordinaryItalianTaste #TrueItalianTaste #iffoodcouldtalk

Tasting Notes:

BIONDI OUTIS ETNA BIANCO 2018 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (XD) - $48.45
A blend of 90% Carricante and 10% Catarrato / Minella from the southeast Comune of Trecastagni that was organically grown on sandy volcanic soils between 650 and 700 metres above sea level. Matured in stainless steel vats with 9 months on lees. The medium-high intensity nose is reductive with a mix of wet stone minerality, fresh lemon citrus, and nutty aromas. It's light-to-medium bodied with lovely lemon citrus, wet stone, and herbal flavours in a spicy profile on the palate, supported by fresh, lively acidity. Juicy, succulent, and crisp with lovely flavour replays joined by pear, stone fruit, and leesy mineral notes that linger on the long finish. Elegant, harmonious, and really nicely balanced with fine acidity bringing it all together. Score: 91+ pts

GRACI ETNA ROSSO 2018 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (XD) - $38.28
100% Nerello Mascalese from Passopisciaro in the northern Comune of Castiglione di Sicilia. It was organically grown on iron rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 600 to 700 metres above sea level. Aged for 18 months in mostly concrete vats and 20% in large oak tini. Sweet cinnamon spice and red fruited aromas of cran-cherry-raspberry and strawberry with a faint hint of smoky mineral rise out of the glass. It's medium+ bodied with fine-grained, supple tannins and lovely spice, cran-cherry, raspberry, and strawberry flavours with underlying savoury, mineral, and smoky characters. It has fresh, juicy acidity and a supple grip with cranberry and some bitterness, tobacco, and white pepper lingering on the long, smoky mineral finish. Score: 91 pts

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