Malbec was originally grown in Bordeaux and in the southwestern French region of Cahors, where it is still the primary red wine grape. It's history can be traced back to at least the year 1316, when Pope John XXII founded the University of Cahors and the clerical elites enjoyed the "black wine of Cahors". In 1853, the first Malbec vines entered Argentina by crossing the Andes on the backs of mules in the saddlebags of Miguel Amado Pouget who was hired to lead Quinta Agronomica, Mendoza's first agronomic school. The graduates from this school were Argentina's first formal, homegrown agronomists and vine growers.
Descending from France's pre-phylloxera vines, Argentine Malbec thrives today in the high-elevation, sunny, and desert climate of Argentina. In 1974, the first Malbec varietal wine was registered for export, and in 1991, the Luján de Cuyo D.O.C. was established. Founded by a handful of pioneering wineries, the Luján de Cuyo D.O.C. was the first of its kind in Argentina and helped promote and protect the development of Malbec, while also setting the stage for the future development and understanding of terroirs.
Today, Malbec is the most widely cultivated varietal in Argentina with more than 109,000 acres planted across the country's wine growing regions spanning from the north to Patagonia in the deep south, resulting in a diverse range of styles and flavour profiles. Since the early 2000s, wineries and researchers began studying the relationship between Malbec and terroir, with many studies showing the impact of climate and temperature on aromatic and flavour components and profile. In February 2021, the Catena Institute of Wine published a study in Scientific Reports that "irrefutably proves the existence of terroir and its persistence across vintages." Winemaker's continue to explore and break new ground by seeking higher-altitude, cooler climates to create Malbec wines of elegance and structure.
Here are seven Malbec wines that I've had the pleasure of enjoying over the last couple of weeks that should provide you with a nice introduction to the varietal, and all are available at the LCBO.
Tasting Notes:
DOMAINE BOUSQUET GRAN MALBEC 2018 - Vegan, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#21983) (XD) - $24.95Blend of 85% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, and 5% Syrah. The medium-high intensity nose is rich and dark with fine wood spice aromas layered over blackberry, currant, cassis, violet, and vanilla. Full-bodied, structured, and dry on the palate with lightly tangy blackberry, herb, black currant, cassis, wood spice flavours with touches of pepper. Fresh, juicy acids whet the palate, while the youthful tannins have some grip. Savoury wood and spice notes linger on the structured finish, with very good length. On the bigger side of Malbec. Agent: B. Cojocaru Agencies Inc. Score: 90+ pts
VIRGEN NATURAL MALBEC 2019 - Vegan, Sustainable, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#21987) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap. This organic, unoaked Malbec has a fresh and fragrant nose that is ripe and fruit-forward with black-blue-purple fruit, plum, grapey, and white pepper spice aromas, plus whiffs of stony mineral. On the medium-full bodied palate it shows impressive fruit concentration with more fruity black-blue-purple fruit, and grapey flavours joined by touches of dried herbs and spice adding a pleasant savoury component. Mild tannins have a refined, slightly dusty texture. Acids are juicy. Tapers to a minerally, finish, with very good length. Agent: B. Cojocaru Agencies Inc. Score: 89 pts
TRAPICHE MEDALLA MALBEC 2018 - Vegan, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#547869) (XD) - $19.95
The nose seems somewhat quiet, offering glimpses of ripe plum, purple fruit, peppery spice, and stony mineral aromas with subtle oak nuances. The medium-full bodied palate is rich and ripe with fleshy concentration and lovely flavours of purple and black fruits, plum, white pepper spice, and stony mineral notes. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the dusty, fine-grained, and lightly structured tannins offer a pleasingly textured mouthfeel. Stony mineral and meaty notes linger on the savoury finish, with very good length. Agent: Dandurand. Score: 89 pts
TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES RESERVA MALBEC 2018 - Mendoza, Argentina (#29280) (XD) - $19.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose offers lovely aromas of freshly crushed dark berries, blackberry, violets, and savoury earthy, stony minerality notes. It's medium-full bodied on the ripe, chewy palate with more dark berry, blackberry, violets, dried herb, and earthy mineral characters on the flavour profile. Showing a touch of warmth at this stage, but still balanced, while the acids are fresh and juicy. Smooth tannins have a fine, dusty texture. Minerally with violet, dark berry, and subtle oak notes linger on the long finish. Agent: Charton Hobbs. Score: 89 pts
NIETO SENETINER DON NICANOR MALBEC 2018 - Uco Valley & Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#178657) (XD) - $16.95
The medium-high intensity nose is quite attractive with violets, ripe black fruit, blackberry, spice, and dark plums with subtle mineral notes rising out of the glass. On the dry, chewy, medium-full bodied palate it has salty mineral and peppery spice notes that join the black fruit, blackberry, and violet flavours. Acids are juicy and well-balanced, while the salty, smooth, and fine-grained tannins have a pleasant, slightly chalky textured grip. Minerally and slightly chalky on the finish, with very good length. Agent: Sylvestre Wines & Spirits. Score: 89 pts
SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE MALBEC 2019 - Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#79798) (XD) - $20.95
Blend of 96% Malbec and 4% Merlot, the fresh, medium+ intensity nose is wood spiced with vanilla surrounding a core of red and black fruit, black cherry, plum, and violet with hints of dried herb and florals emerging with time in the glass. It's full-bodied and quite tangy on the dry palate with black cherry, plum, and violet flavours, turning savoury and woody on the back palate. It has fresh, juicy acids and elegant, smooth, and supple tannins with just a touch of grip. Savoury, earthy, and wood spiced on the finish, with very good length. Agent: Profile Wine Group. Score: 89 pts
EL ESTECO DON DAVID RESERVE MALBEC 2020 - Calchaquí Valley, Argentina (#483263) (XD) -
Grown at high altitude in the Calchaquí Valley in the North of Argentina at over 1,800 metres (6,000 feet) elevation. Screw cap. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose is fresh and intense with spice and stony mineral aromas surrounding notes of dark berry, blackberry, tobacco, and dark chocolate with flecks of violet. The medium-full bodied palate has very good structure with dry, savoury flavours of chocolate, spice, tobacco, plus dark berry and blackberry notes. On the salty mid-palate it has fresh, juicy acidity, while the tannins are smooth and well-rounded. Savoury chocolate and earthy notes on the fresh finish, with very good length. Agent: Dandurand. Score: 90 pts
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