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  • Date publishedFriday, January 6, 2023

Portugal: A Region to Dream About

red wine reviews are a trio of wines from some of Portugal's best red wine growing appellations - Douro (& Porto), Dão, and Alentejo.

Portugal: A Region to Dream About

Given the time of year when the days are cold and the leaves have long fallen, many wine lovers gravitate to sipping a warming glass of red wine and daydream about warmer climes. If you combine the two on a vinous reverie - you will reach sunny Portugal!

With a mainly hot, dry Mediterranean climate, Portugal offers a wealth of elegant, structured wines. For lighter reds, you can head further north on the Atlantic coast. Portugal boasts an impressive diversity of vineyard terroirs, from rugged mountains to verdant river valleys. There are more than 250 native grape varieties grown in Portugal, and they are often crafted into highly distinctive wines in a variety of styles. Portuguese wines are the ideal choice for adventurous wine lovers looking for wines off-the-beaten track. To get started, let's look at some of Portugal's best red wine appellations.

Situated in northern Portugal, the Douro region is made up of mainly granite and schist slopes, and the steep, terraced vineyards follow the sinuous path of the Douro River from the Spanish border, gradually flattening as they near Porto. I visited Porto many years ago and the slopes along the Douro River are quite the sight and a must visit for every wine enthusiast. The rugged beauty and long-standing quality reputation of Douro wines have garnered the region UNESCO World Heritage status.

In the hot, dry climate of the Douro, which is protected from wet coastal weather by the Serra do Marão mountains, red grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, and Tinto Cão thrive. These are the favoured varieties to craft the Douro's famous fortified dessert Port wines, as well as the region's ageworthy, structured, and dark fruited dry red wines.

Travelling southwest from Douro, we arrive in the mountainous region of Dão. The Dão appellation is sheltered from the extremes of both continental and maritime weather patterns, giving it a temperate climate. Like the Douro, the Dão winegrowing region takes its name from the river of the same name that traverses its vineyards. The reigning red grape in Dão is Touriga Nacional and it is often blended with Tinta Roriz, while the granite soils in Dão offer a a slightly fresher, more mineral-laced quality to these red blends compared to Douro wines. Excellent red wines are also being made from the region's Alfrocheiro and Jaen varieties.

The third wine region covered in this post is Alentejo. Located in the southwestern part of Portugal, the hot, dry region of Alentejo represents one-third of Portugal's total surface area. Due to it's size, the appellation is divided into eight distinct sub-regions because of the multitude of different soil types and varied topography, from steep mountainous terrain in the north to vast, gently undulating vineyards further south. Alentejo is known as the heartland of Portugal's red wine production and the major grapes grown here include Alfrocheiro, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Castelão, and Trincadeira. Although difficult to generalize given the region's wide diversity, red wines are commonly rich, velvety, and ripe-fruited.

Portugal has a proud tradition for fine winemaking dating back thousands of years. Each Portuguese wine is unique and tells us a story that, if you let it, can transport you into the heart of its vineyards.

The Alentejo red in this post is part of the VINTAGES Essentials Collection and is available year-round, while the Dão and Douro red wines arrived at the LCBO as part of a VINTAGES Release earlier this year and are still available for purchase. To explore more Portuguese wines from these producers, you can look on lcbo.com or contact each producer's Agent, while other wines from Portugal can be found at the LCBO, including their Portugal Destination Collection store located at 2151 St Clair Ave. West in Toronto.

Tasting Notes:

JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA DOMINI 2019 - DOP Douro, Portugal (#452730) (XD) - $17.95 $15.25
Blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Francesa grown on schist soils and aged for 3 months in new French and American oak. Ripe and fruity medium+ intensity nose is dark fruited with blackberry, black plum, peppery spice, and mineral undertones. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has ripe plummy and blackberry flavours along with some peppery spice, herbs, and minerals adding a pleasant savoury component. Acids are fresh, juicy, and well-balanced, while the supple tannins have a nice, textural mouthfeel. Savoury minerals linger on the long, juicy finish. Agent: Dandurand. Score: 88+ pts 

José Maria da Fonseca Domini 2019 (88+ pts)

CABRIZ COLHEITA SELECIONADA 2019 - DOC Dão, Portugal (#247973) (D) - $14.95
Blend of 40% Alfrocheiro Preto, 30% Aragonez (Tempranillo), and 30% Touriga Nacional. The medium-high intensity nose offers intriguing aromas of red berry, cherry, raspberry, and spices and touches of plummy. Savoury mineral notes add further interest. On the medium-bodied palate it is ripe with red berry, plum, cran-cherry-raspberry, and subtle spice flavours. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the tannins are smooth and supple. Nicely balanced with minerally and smoky notes on the finish, with very good length. In a nice place right now compared to when first tasted earlier this year. Agent: Noble Estates Wines & Spirits. Score: 88+ pts

Cabriz Colheita Selecionada 2019 (88+ pts)

ESPORÃO RESERVA RED 2019 - DOC Alentejo, Portugal (#606590) (XD) - $26.95
Blend of Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Touriga Franca that was grown organically on granite/schist soils with clay/loam structure. It was aged for 12 months in 60% American and 40% French oak barrels. The medium+ intensity nose seems a bit shy, offering aromas of sweet wood spice, sandalwood, and ripe dark berries, blackberry, and hints of licorice. It is also very ripe on the medium-full bodied palate with youthful, gritty tannins and fresh acidity. Dark berry, blackberry, sweet wood spice, sandalwood, and licorice flavours on the palate, turning savoury and smoky on the finish, with very good length. Interesting fact: Each vintage of this wine features a new label graced with works from some of Portugal's finest artists. Agent: FWP Trading Inc. Score: 89 pts

Esporão Reserva Red 2019 (89 pts)


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