Cellier des Dauphins Réserve Côtes du Rhône 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Réserve Côtes du Rhône, a blend of Grenache and Syrah that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the July 18 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône (UVCdR), a co-operative winery founded in 1965 in the southeastern French region of Drôme Provençale by a group of local grower co-operatives. Today, UVCdR unites approximately 2,300 winegrowing families across the Southern Rhône Valley, cultivating more than 12,000 hectares of vineyards to produce wines from numerous Rhône Valley appellations, including several Crus.

As one of the Rhône Valley's largest wine producers, UVCdR has become one of the region's leading co-operative groups, with Cellier des Dauphins serving as its flagship brand. Introduced in 1967, Cellier des Dauphins has grown into one of the Rhône Valley's best-known wine brands, built on the co-operative values of its founding growers. The brand reflects a commitment to quality from vine to glass, while celebrating the collective spirit that has united generations of Rhône winegrowers. Its name—"Cellar of the Dolphins"—pays tribute to the historic Dauphiné region, which bordered the Rhône Valley in southeastern France.

In the vineyard, Cellier des Dauphins growers work their vineyards every day with concrete actions in favour of biodiversity. Their winegrowers have converted 3,000 hectares to High Environmental Value (HVE) certification, and 1,350 hectares to organic agriculture. Cellier des Dauphins is also committed to eco-design of packaging and is constantly seeking sustainable solutions to packaging, along with waste reduction and preserving natural resources.

I last enjoyed this delicious Rhône red when the 2019 Cellier des Dauphins Réserve landed at the LCBO five years ago, and while that vintage was predominantly (90%) Grenache with Syrah playing a very small role, the 2023 blend shifts to 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. The grapes were selected from their best terroir in the villages of Richerenche, Vinsobres, Puyméras, Tulette, and Saint Maurice. The vineyards are situated at altitude in the lower Pré-Alpes north of Mont Ventoux, on terraces with a cooler climate where the sunny Mediterranean climate is cooled by the Mistral winds. The soil on these terraces is composed of clay limestone formed of sedimentary rock and pebbles. To craft this wine, the grapes were harvested when extra ripe to obtain maximum aromatic concentration and natural mellowness. It was traditionally vinified with the must macerating for two weeks at a controlled temperature, followed by extended wood ageing.

In 2023, the growing season began with a very dry start from January to March, which resulted in a relatively late budburst in early April. The Mistral winds blew frequently during the period between budburst and flowering—precisely when growers would have preferred calmer conditions. On the bright side, there were welcoming rains in May and June, followed by a warm and arid summer, which climaxed to 43°C in late August, which led to some grapes suffering sunburn and maturation issues. Rain at the end of August allowed the vines to recover and the grapes to resume ripening, although the fierce heat remained until the end of the month. This was a season that suited vines grown on clay soils (under rolled pebbles). The early harvest wasn't particularly good for Grenache as sugar ripening had often got ahead of phenolic ripening, which may help explain the increased proportion of Syrah in this vintage for this wine. Despite the challenges, this is a good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Côtes du Rhône red is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CELLIER DES DAUPHINS RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2023 - AOC, France (#14081) (XD) - $16.95
This blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a medium+ intensity nose that takes some coaxing to reveal a fine mix of ripe black raspberry, garrigue, peppery spice, and black cherry aromas with warm stones and scorched earth notes adding further complexity. The medium to medium+ bodied palate is dry with ripe, plummy, dark cherry, black raspberry, black cherry, blackberry, and peppery spice flavours nuanced with meaty, scorched earth, and stony minerals. It's supported by fresh, lively, and slightly tangy acidity, along with grainy textured tannins with good structure. Nicely balanced throughout with savoury black raspberry and scorched earth notes lingering on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A few wines by UVCdR bearing the "Dauphins" name are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.