Tenuta San Guido Wine Tasting (Tuscany) - Wine Reviews

Back in September, I had a great opportunity to taste the latest wines by Tenuta San Guido - makers of the iconic Sassicaia Super Tuscan wine from Bolgheri - and after the structured tasting enjoyed a fine lunch at Stratus Restaurant in downtown Toronto.

The story of Tenuta San Guido begins with Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. The Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta are among the protagonists of Italian history, from the early Middle Ages to the emergence of the Baroque age, and beyond. Mario was born into a Piedmontese family in 1899 and studied agriculture in Pisa and immediately cultivated a strong inclination for agronomy. By the 1920s, his dream was to find perfection in agriculture and respect for the land.

In 1930, Mario married Clarice della Gherardesca, a descendant of one of the oldest families in Tuscany, and moved to Maremma, Tuscany. In addition to a common passion for wine, Mario and Clarice also had a passion for thoroughbred horses - a family passion that continues to this day with an on-site stable and training centre. Countess Clarice was also the heiress to 2,500 hectares in the Bolgheri area: Tenuta San Guido.

Mario Incisa immediately realized Tenuta San Guido as one of the most extraordinary biotypes of Mediterranean Europe and began experimenting with some French grape varieties, concluding that Cabernet had the bouquet he was seeking. Recalling a time in the 1920s when Mario Incisa tasted a wine belonging to the Dukes Salviati di Migliarino, grown on the hill of San Giuliano, near Pisa, he asked Salviatis for some plants of their vines and planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the hills that gently descended towards the sea, below the fortress of Castiglioncello. He also noticed the similarity between this land in Bolgheri and the Graves area in Bordeaux, due to the mainly gravelly soil which is very favourable to the production of great red wines. In order to grow excellent quality fruit, he pruned drastically to obtain low-yields, and then introduced barrique for the ageing of fine wines, following the example of French producers.

Although no one considered Bolgheri an area suited for the cultivation of Cabernet Sauvignon before the 1940s, Tenuta San Guido benefits from a set of natural elements that favours this varietal. The soils are partially clayey and situated at an altitude between 100 and 400 meters above sea level, with west and southwest exposure, along with a strong presence of limestone areas rich in Alberese and Gabbro, as well as stones. The climate also has its own peculiarity with an amphitheatre of hills embracing the land that stretches from Bibbona to Castagneto, protecting the vineyards and olive groves from northeast winds, while in summer this corridor is cooled by winds generated between the valleys of the Cecina river. The energy and sunlight are reflected from the sea to the hills, which in turn retains the sea breeze and generates refreshing humidity. Situated within a range of 2,500 hectares, this area was found to have the ideal terroir for Sassicaia.

Sassicaia, the wine whose name is a toponym, was strictly a private product reserved for family and friends from 1945 to 1967. In 1971, the 1968 vintage was the first vintage available to the public and it received praise worthy of greatness and importance. In 1978, the 1972 Sassicaia was awarded first place at a Decanter magazine blind tasting among 33 Cabernet Sauvignons from around the world and moved towards becoming the iconic wine it is today. In order to recognize Mario's vision in creating a wine that gave Italian winemaking lustre and fame, Italy created the Bolgheri DOC appellation in 1983, and in 2013 the sub-appellation of DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia was created. Since Tenuta San Guido owns all of the land under the DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia appellation, Sassicaia is the only wine that is made in the appellation.

Today, Tenuta San Guido is led by Honorary President Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta. son of Mario. Nicolò joined his father in 1955 to help manage the family business. The Incisa family had a relationship with the Antinori family through Nicolò's mother, Clarice, who was from the Della Gherardesca family. It was through this relationship that Nicolò worked with the young oenologist Giacomo Tachis to develop the first red Bordeaux blend in the history of Bolgheri - it was the aforementioned 1968 Sassicaia. Nicolò was instrumental in turning Tenuta San Guido into a modern estate that combined family traditions with the expertise of independent managers.

The bond that exists between the family and company is now represented by Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, daughter of Nicolò and brand manager responsible for external relations, and her five cousins and their children. The estate covers 2,500 hectares, of which 90 hectares are devoted to the vineyards and the winery. The approach in the vineyard is always measured against the needs of the land. Vineyard management requires a great deal of time and care and is influenced by the seasonality to determine if any interventions are required, while the concepts of sustainability, integration, and conservation are also important prerequisites prior to taking any action. Harvest is carried out manually, while in the winery, they strive to create wines with balance, pleasantness, elegance, freshness, sinuous tannins, and longevity.

In addition to Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido also produces two other wines - Guidalberto and Le Difese. We had the opportunity to taste all three wines during the structured tasting which was led by Priscilla. After taking us through each of the fantastic wines, including some back vintages, we also had the opportunity to pair the wines with lunch. Reviews of all of the wines tasted are provided below, with the latest vintages available for purchase through the Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits, or at the LCBO in the coming months.

Tasting Notes:

TENUTA SAN GUIDO LE DIFESE 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#147876) (XD) - $38.95
First produced in 2002 and traditionally more Cab Sauv than Sangiovese, this vintage is a blend of 55% Sangiovese and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Sangiovese purchased from two estates. From a warm vintage that was good for early ripening varieties, this has a clean, ripe, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of dark cherry-berry, currant, and clove with hints of cassis, as well as elegant wood spice aromas. Some beautiful floral notes emerge with time in glass. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it offers elegant, fine-grained, and gritty tannins that have some structure. Very nice aroma replays are nicely balanced on the palate. Clove, currant, and dark cherry replays linger on the long, succulent finish. Coming to LCBO VINTAGES May 2023. Score: 92 pts

TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#72439) (XD) - $66.95
A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that is fresh, yet seems shy with crushed dark red berry, currant, and cassis aromas with savoury undertones. It’s medium-full bodied on the crunchy palate with tight tannins. Very nice aroma replays on the flavour profile are joined by licorice, and wild herbs. It has fresh acidity and excellent length on the long, balanced, finish. Still a bit young and should age nicely up to a decade from now. Coming to LCBO VINTAGES March 2023. Score: 93 pts

TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2015 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#72439) (XD)
Named after Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the ancestor who made the greatest contribution to the territory’s agricultural and viticultural history. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot has a lovely, perfumed, highly aromatic nose of currant, cassis, red & black fruits, with savoury, wet earth, forest floor undertones. It’s medium-full bodied with smooth, refined tannins that have some structure and is still a bit tight. Nicely balanced aroma replays with elegance on the palate. Balanced acids. Long, dark berry, currant, and earthy finish. Score: 93 pts

SASSICAIA 2019 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD) - $249.95
A traditional blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. From a very regular, steady vintage, this has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers a lovely perfume of red & black fruits, currant, cherry, wet earth, and forest floor, with touches of florality. It’s medium-full to full-bodied with lovely aroma replays plus spice notes and smooth, structured, and elegant tannins that are balanced with fresh acidity. Nicely balanced flavours throughout, tapering to a very long, currant, dark berry, and wet earth finish. Score: 96 pts

SASSICAIA 2018 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD)
85/15 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. First made in 1968 and celebrating its 50th vintage, the perfumed, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers fresh dark and red berry, currant, and cassis notes with touches of purple fruit and floral. On the medium-full to full-bodied palate it has fresh acidity and lovely aroma replays. Smooth, structured, and dusty textured tannins are very nicely balanced throughout. Attractive fruit and savoury earthy interplays on the finish, with excellent length. Very approachable now and will continue to age well into the late 2030s. Score: 96 pts

SASSICAIA 2010 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD)
Blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc from a fresher vintage and long harvest. Beautiful, highly aromatic, maturing nose of dried cherry, rose florals, and savoury wet earth. Wow! Lovely smooth, refined, finely textured tannins on the medium-full to full-bodied palate with lovely aroma replays plus some earthy mineral notes on the flavour profile. Juicy, well-balanced acids. Very nice, very long, earthy mineral finish. Will continue to drink well for another 10+ years. Score: 97 pts