Artemivske Victory White Brut Sparkling and Red Semi-Sweet Sparkling (Ukraine) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's sparkling wine reviews are a pair of brand-new arrivals that landed at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the November 30 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Artwinery, a sparkling wine producer in Ukraine that was established in 1950, but whose history goes back to the 19th century.

Ukranian history in the production of traditional method sparkling wines begins with Prince Lev Golitsyn, who bought an estate in Novyi Svit, on the southern shores of Crimea, that was completely destroyed during the Crimean War. By 1882, the Prince's factory was able to revive Crimean winemaking by producing traditional method sparkling wines. During this period, in the town of Bakhmut, in the eastern part of the country, engineer Edmund Farke signed a contract with the government for the construction of alabaster factories, which became a thriving enterprise. The extraction of gypsum for the factories resulted in a large underground mine, 70 metres below ground, which had a micro-climate that allowed for fermentation to take place, and was the beginning of unique wine production in Ukraine.

The celebration of victory following World War II required a special drink, and in the 1940s they started working on creating "Soviet sparkling wine", which had to be of at least equal quality to Champagne. They used the underground galleries of Bakhmut, which was known as Artemivsk back then, for the production of classical sparkling wines, and by 1950, the wine factory was officially established. These wines were tasty, high-quality, and the most hard-to-find in the U.S.S.R., as they were distributed mostly in stores for those that worked for the party, while off-limits to ordinary citizens.

As Ukraine gained its independence in 1991, the wine factory began creating sparkling wines under its own brands - Artemivske and Krim. In 2007, the winery began upgrading the plant with more modern and powerful units, while the laboratory was completely renovated. Furthermore, some processes that were manually performed are also now automated. These upgrades allowed the winery to produce 25 million bottles per year. In 2016, the company got its new name - Artwinery. By 2020, Artwinery's sparkling wines were gaining global recognition and winning prizes at international industry competitions and exhibitions.

Today, Artwinery is the largest in Eastern Europe and the only one in Ukraine to produce sparkling wines in the classic Champenoise method where re-fermentation of the wine and its saturation with bubbles is carried out naturally in bottle. As we know - place matters, and as such, Bakhmut is situated at the same latitude and climatic zone as Champagne. The grapes used to create Artwinery's sparkling wines are grown in the fertile soils of southern Ukraine, in the sunny climates of Odesa, Kherson, and Mykolaiv. With the war in Ukraine ongoing, the workers continue producing wine in secret locations to not let the Russians stop their work.

These particular sparkling wines are from Artwinery's Artemivske range. The Artemivske brand is only 10 years old, but has become the #1 sparkling wine in Ukraine and is a favourite among several generations as it evokes the warmth of your family memories and the brightest everyday emotions. Today, the Artemivske brand retains its impeccable quality and enjoys constant popularity. Each bottle in the Artemivske range is fermented using their special in-house yeast and aged in bottle for at least 9 months and offers a delicate bouquet and taste. Let's see how these sparkling wines from Ukraine are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY RED SEMI-SWEET SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40768) (MS) - $18.95
Crafted in the Charmat method, this blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Saperavi has a medium intensity nose that is gently spicy, followed by macerated black cherry, dark berry, milk chocolate, cocoa, dark plum, cassis, and currant aromas. It's mid-weighted and gently sweet with black cherry, plummy, dark berry, savoury spices, and chocolate flavours supported by gently frothy mousse and bright acidity that tempers the sweetness. Quite harmonious and balanced throughout, even some sense of elegance, while savoury cocoa and milk chocolate notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY WHITE BRUT SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40769) (D) - $18.95
Blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Aligoté crafted in the Charmat method. The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers ripe peach, nectarine, honeysuckle, and freshly sliced apple aromas accented with orange and citrus notes. There's a touch of sweetness alongside bitterness on the crisp, refreshing, and slightly frothy light-to-mid-weighted palate with lively acidity and bubbles. Gently sweet flavours of apple, pear, orchard fruit, and white floral, plus notes of peach and citrus. Juicy and succulent on the mid-palate, while leesy notes linger on the essentially dry finish, with very good length. Appealing crowd-pleaser. Recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Artwinery can be purchased through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.